I used this video to repair my 997.1 spoiler for $12! (The cost of the Lucas Oil Power Steering Stopleak, 12oz) Great video, It may be worth mentioning the 997 components are slightly different (improved) but the fix is essentially the same and can be done in about 3 hours on a first try if things go your way. Do not forget that the button on your dash will not work while the deck lid is in the “up” position. Once you lower it, then perform the in-place operations check! 997 unique: wing attaches with a threaded bolt design, so same removal process, but keep rotating the cylinders about 10 times. Note: If you have complete failure of the wing or want to remove the wing without hassle, remove the banjo bolts from the bottom of the rams, remove the circlip and washer from the bottom of each ram and slide the entire wing and strut up and out of the deck lid. It’s way easier than trying to fiddle with removing the wing by rotating the entire strut without scratching the paint!
Hi and thank you for doing this video. I did as it shows in the video and now both side deploy but one only goes back a little and I have to manually push it in. Would you know what the issue could be? Could it be inside the cylinder and piston? Thanks again.
Great video, I feel I should mention that there is a hole on the ram upright which fits a specific tool for releasing the spoiler called a Hook And Pin Wrench that makes removing the spoiler much easier with much less chance of damaging the paint work.
Thanks! Yeah, I know about the special tool, but my budget was $20 for the project and the tool was over $40. So you can see my dilemma... But for those folks with a bigger budget, but not quite willing to spring for the $2500 Porsche Dealer rebuild, the tool is probably a good choice.
Hi, thankyou for the upload . In my case one of the loft cylinder is leaking so I guess I will not disassemble the pump but will try to change the washers at the end of pistons & then try to bleed by giving power to the pump . Hope that it works
A neat trick for your pliers is to slide heat shrink over the jaws. Make sure its over sized and really pushed on. Don't worry about a wrinkle. Use a lighter to shrink it down. It will stay in place and it thicker shrunk. When you're done with it just cut it off. Its cheap!!
Good tip. You'd never know from my video, but I like cheap. I'll have to compare the cost to 4" of duct tape. There was a special tool available for $40 or so, but that's just ridiculous.
All good. And on the plus side you can reuse the duct tape when you're done with it. I also noticed you don't have a bench for your vise. Have you thought about getting a couple lag bolts and fasten your vise to one of those big chunks of wood to make working with the vise easier?
Thank you for the great post.... I have the light on both '04 turbo cabs and one of them now only raises about 1/3 so it is not the switches, LOL. Since I get to do this twice, before I get into it, I wanted to ask why the 50/50 Lucas stop-leak /ATF fluid and not the Pentosin CHF 11S other than cost of the Pentosin? Neither car has had any evidence of leakage on the ram covers. Ordinarily I would just use what my service manual specs but since everything you show in the video is in line with the procedures in the manual for filling, bleeding, etc, I thought it an interesting choice. Thanks for any clarification!
Follow up to previous post: Thank you again NT for the superb video. I just completed the repair and all appears well... I have the rams in the up position checking for any leaking under pressure. I had to bleed the short hose (Left) system 3 times but it is solid now. Using your video with my factory service manual, I found an easier method to fill the cylinders. The manual basically has you reassemble the pump pack and you fill the cylinders through the holes in the end cap. As you mentioned in the video you want to ensure the pistons are fully retracted. I think the simplest way to do this is to drive the pump to the full down position once assembled and there is no doubt as to piston location in the cylinder. Works great. Other thing I figured out is that if one of the rams doesn't work, don't disassemble the whole thing to fix. Once it is together, each side is effectively an independent system so just refill/re-bleed the one that isn't working until you get it purged. Hope this helps the next person attempting this repair. It is fiddly (Circlips on the rams) but not at all difficult. Now to the other turbo cab...
I used an automotive O-Ring assortment. Luckily none of my other parts were damaged. There are 2 O-Rings on each piston and another 2 at the top of they cylinder - 1 internal, one external. You may find other parts in need of repair or replacement, but that was all I needed. Good luck getting your rams up!
Check out Jonathan H.'s comment below about the 997 for a stuck spoiler. Another possibility is to get some long bolts the same thread as the banjo bolt and tighten the in to raise the spoiler. Compressed air might work, but holding it up may be difficult. Let me know how it works out. Thanks.
@@neuntwelven Just finished! That trick worked great, popping the spring clips and sliding the whole ram out with the spoiler. Mine will go up and down, but randomly throws a fault. I may have not bled it well enough on one side, but beforehand, it wouldn't do a thing. 2 o rings were torn, and the rest were flat.
Have you already removed, replaced o-rings and fluid? Did you do a bench test before putting it back in the car? If so, it sounds like you have an electrical problem that is not driving your motor. If you need to raise them to remove the spoiler, check out Jonathan H.'s and Daniel I.'s comments for raising them. Good luck.
@@neuntwelven Hi there. Managed to free up the rams. One of them in particular was almost completely ceased. Almost ready to reassemble everything now and mount to the car. New 50/50 solution has been bled of air and it complete. Bit earlier today my father and I were testing the motor itself to see if that was the source of the problem, we wired it up to the car, but it only operated when pressing the wing down side of the button on the dash. And whilst doing so some smoke came out from the motor. Do you know if the motor should wind both ways in this instance? Or should everything be assembled for the motor and switches to turn both ways? Thanks for your reply! May need to refer back to those comments when it comes to that point.
Hi, we are two engineering students from Italy and we are modeling the rear wing of the 911 996 Turbo. In the video you show all the components (pistons, pump, screw etc.) and we wonder if you would like to share with us some more details about the system. It would be very helpfull for us to know the exact length, diameter of the tubes, pump flow rate etc. since we need the parameters for the simulation. We are sure you can help us! Thanks :)
I don't have all that info saved. There are 2 cylinders about 25mm in diameter on the drive side. The stroke is about 50mm. The pistons are pushed slowly by the motor turning the screw. It takes about 10 seconds to move up or down. Under the spoiler, the hydraulic cylinders are much smaller, maybe 10mm inner diameter and the stroke is equal to the spoiler lift - about 75mm. Good luck and thanks for watching.
Hi, First, Great Video! I noticed during reassembly the rams are down, but the video then shows them up just prior to install. How do you perform the bench test to extend them while out of the car? Thanks
Thanks. Use a 12V battery or battery charger on the two motor electrical connectors. Reversing polarity reverses direction. Alligator clip wires are helpful. Good luck.
Hey. So my spoiler hasn’t worked in years bought the car like that. How can I get it in the up position to take it off? Also is that the same fix? Or could that be some other issue?
Cover your engine with a towel or blanket to catch parts & fluid. Remove the hydraulic banjo bolt from the bottom of the spoiler rams. Remove the C clips on the bottom. Then, you can lift out the spoiler with the rams. If the motor still works, you should be able to do this fix. Good luck!
Tough one. The Sedona spoiler option is a rare one indeed and should be kept in tip top shape for resale. Therefore I would have to recommend biting the bullet for the Power Steering Stop Leak. It'll set you back a pricey $10, but well worth it for your automotive investment.
Thank you for the quick reply. I don't have a spoiler. Its my passenger side door locks. The are stuck in the up position. The red oil has been leaking from the locks on my parking space for a while. I bet they are filled with air. I did a search for a how to video to fix them and yours showed up so I guess the basics are the same. Its my day drive so I plan to take things apart and replace / bleed the air out this weekend. $10 isn't too bad so I'll go with locus stop leak. Thanks again for all you help!! I hope one day to also own a Porsche.
It would work on a hydraulic power antenna. However, in all but the most exotic of cars where originality overrides functionality, replacing the hydraulic system with a hand crank will be more reliable and cost effective.
You can give / sell a person a fish and they eat for a day. Teach them to fish and they eat for a lifetime. This channel is about teaching people how to fish... with a pvc pipe and used fishing line... using dug up worms. No can do, but thanks for the vote of confidence!
Luckily, the spoiler automatically retracts below 45mph and must be raised to twist for removal. I'll bet there aren't too many would be thieves who can run that fast while wrenching on my spoiler...
@@geldingmakr I would guess that your motor is not running. Check wire voltage using the spoiler button. If no voltage, check fuses. If you have voltage, you may have a bad motor. On a positive note, you may not have a leak if it is staying up!
@@geldingmakr Yes. Two wires go to the motor on the passenger side of assembly under spoiler sandwiched in the plastic cover. Not the easiest to access, so check the fuse first (D7, 15A on mine).
That is a good alternative. However it costs $1600+ and removes originality. This costs about $20 (o-rings and hydraulic fluid). Both require installation time, this might add 1-2 hours of rebuild time. Hopefully, this video makes it clear what is involved. Mine is working as new 2 years later. Thanks for watching.
I used this video to repair my 997.1 spoiler for $12! (The cost of the Lucas Oil Power Steering Stopleak, 12oz) Great video, It may be worth mentioning the 997 components are slightly different (improved) but the fix is essentially the same and can be done in about 3 hours on a first try if things go your way.
Do not forget that the button on your dash will not work while the deck lid is in the “up” position. Once you lower it, then perform the in-place operations check!
997 unique: wing attaches with a threaded bolt design, so same removal process, but keep rotating the cylinders about 10 times.
Note: If you have complete failure of the wing or want to remove the wing without hassle, remove the banjo bolts from the bottom of the rams, remove the circlip and washer from the bottom of each ram and slide the entire wing and strut up and out of the deck lid. It’s way easier than trying to fiddle with removing the wing by rotating the entire strut without scratching the paint!
Sweet! Glad to help. Thanks for the 997 intel. Hopefully others will benefit from your input.
Hi and thank you for doing this video. I did as it shows in the video and now both side deploy but one only goes back a little and I have to manually push it in. Would you know what the issue could be? Could it be inside the cylinder and piston? Thanks again.
Do you have links for the parts like fittings needed?
This is awesome - thanks so much for taking the time to video and upload - much appreciated 🙂🙌
Great video, I feel I should mention that there is a hole on the ram upright which fits a specific tool for releasing the spoiler called a Hook And Pin Wrench that makes removing the spoiler much easier with much less chance of damaging the paint work.
Thanks! Yeah, I know about the special tool, but my budget was $20 for the project and the tool was over $40. So you can see my dilemma... But for those folks with a bigger budget, but not quite willing to spring for the $2500 Porsche Dealer rebuild, the tool is probably a good choice.
Well done man ! Congrats.👋💪
Awesome video! I might just have to give this a try now that I've got a better idea of how it works. Would love to get mine working again.
Good luck!
Hi, thankyou for the upload . In my case one of the loft cylinder is leaking so I guess I will not disassemble the pump but will try to change the washers at the end of pistons & then try to bleed by giving power to the pump . Hope that it works
A neat trick for your pliers is to slide heat shrink over the jaws. Make sure its over sized and really pushed on. Don't worry about a wrinkle. Use a lighter to shrink it down. It will stay in place and it thicker shrunk. When you're done with it just cut it off. Its cheap!!
Good tip. You'd never know from my video, but I like cheap. I'll have to compare the cost to 4" of duct tape. There was a special tool available for $40 or so, but that's just ridiculous.
All good. And on the plus side you can reuse the duct tape when you're done with it. I also noticed you don't have a bench for your vise. Have you thought about getting a couple lag bolts and fasten your vise to one of those big chunks of wood to make working with the vise easier?
Thank you for the great post.... I have the light on both '04 turbo cabs and one of them now only raises about 1/3 so it is not the switches, LOL. Since I get to do this twice, before I get into it, I wanted to ask why the 50/50 Lucas stop-leak /ATF fluid and not the Pentosin CHF 11S other than cost of the Pentosin? Neither car has had any evidence of leakage on the ram covers. Ordinarily I would just use what my service manual specs but since everything you show in the video is in line with the procedures in the manual for filling, bleeding, etc, I thought it an interesting choice. Thanks for any clarification!
Follow up to previous post: Thank you again NT for the superb video. I just completed the repair and all appears well... I have the rams in the up position checking for any leaking under pressure. I had to bleed the short hose (Left) system 3 times but it is solid now. Using your video with my factory service manual, I found an easier method to fill the cylinders. The manual basically has you reassemble the pump pack and you fill the cylinders through the holes in the end cap. As you mentioned in the video you want to ensure the pistons are fully retracted. I think the simplest way to do this is to drive the pump to the full down position once assembled and there is no doubt as to piston location in the cylinder. Works great. Other thing I figured out is that if one of the rams doesn't work, don't disassemble the whole thing to fix. Once it is together, each side is effectively an independent system so just refill/re-bleed the one that isn't working until you get it purged. Hope this helps the next person attempting this repair. It is fiddly (Circlips on the rams) but not at all difficult. Now to the other turbo cab...
How successful was the repair? Is it still operating properly?
Great video! Where did you buy the pistons and piston rings or any other parts? Thanks.
I used an automotive O-Ring assortment. Luckily none of my other parts were damaged. There are 2 O-Rings on each piston and another 2 at the top of they cylinder - 1 internal, one external. You may find other parts in need of repair or replacement, but that was all I needed. Good luck getting your rams up!
Thanks, that what I am looking to do
No problem 👍
Wow !!! Great thank you !!👍😃
Thanks for this! How would i go about getting the spoiler up in order to remove it? Mine is stuck fully down
Check out Jonathan H.'s comment below about the 997 for a stuck spoiler. Another possibility is to get some long bolts the same thread as the banjo bolt and tighten the in to raise the spoiler. Compressed air might work, but holding it up may be difficult. Let me know how it works out. Thanks.
@@neuntwelven Just finished! That trick worked great, popping the spring clips and sliding the whole ram out with the spoiler. Mine will go up and down, but randomly throws a fault. I may have not bled it well enough on one side, but beforehand, it wouldn't do a thing. 2 o rings were torn, and the rest were flat.
Excellent. The video does not show that it took 3 or 4 tries to get a really solid bleed where both rams went up evenly without delay.
How did you get the rams to fully extend upon re installation? Mine don’t want to budge. If there pressure that needs to be released?
Have you already removed, replaced o-rings and fluid? Did you do a bench test before putting it back in the car? If so, it sounds like you have an electrical problem that is not driving your motor.
If you need to raise them to remove the spoiler, check out Jonathan H.'s and Daniel I.'s comments for raising them. Good luck.
@@neuntwelven Hi there. Managed to free up the rams. One of them in particular was almost completely ceased. Almost ready to reassemble everything now and mount to the car. New 50/50 solution has been bled of air and it complete. Bit earlier today my father and I were testing the motor itself to see if that was the source of the problem, we wired it up to the car, but it only operated when pressing the wing down side of the button on the dash. And whilst doing so some smoke came out from the motor. Do you know if the motor should wind both ways in this instance? Or should everything be assembled for the motor and switches to turn both ways?
Thanks for your reply! May need to refer back to those comments when it comes to that point.
@@neuntwelven just read that the up button won’t work if the deck lid is up… that would make sense. Well fingers crossed everything goes as planned.
Hi, we are two engineering students from Italy and we are modeling the rear wing of the 911 996 Turbo. In the video you show all the components (pistons, pump, screw etc.) and we wonder if you would like to share with us some more details about the system. It would be very helpfull for us to know the exact length, diameter of the tubes, pump flow rate etc. since we need the parameters for the simulation.
We are sure you can help us! Thanks :)
I don't have all that info saved. There are 2 cylinders about 25mm in diameter on the drive side. The stroke is about 50mm. The pistons are pushed slowly by the motor turning the screw. It takes about 10 seconds to move up or down. Under the spoiler, the hydraulic cylinders are much smaller, maybe 10mm inner diameter and the stroke is equal to the spoiler lift - about 75mm. Good luck and thanks for watching.
@@neuntwelven thank you very much! These info will help us realize a realistic model :)
Hi, First, Great Video!
I noticed during reassembly the rams are down, but the video then shows them up just prior to install. How do you perform the bench test to extend them while out of the car? Thanks
Thanks. Use a 12V battery or battery charger on the two motor electrical connectors. Reversing polarity reverses direction. Alligator clip wires are helpful. Good luck.
Thanks. How do you reverse the polarity?
@@jcramey16 Positive wire to bigger connector, negative to smaller goes one direction. Positive to smaller, negative to bigger goes other direction.
Ah, thanks didn’t realize I could reverse the wires on the motor.
Hey. So my spoiler hasn’t worked in years bought the car like that. How can I get it in the up position to take it off? Also is that the same fix? Or could that be some other issue?
Cover your engine with a towel or blanket to catch parts & fluid. Remove the hydraulic banjo bolt from the bottom of the spoiler rams. Remove the C clips on the bottom. Then, you can lift out the spoiler with the rams. If the motor still works, you should be able to do this fix. Good luck!
Great video! Will this repair work on my 2003 Kia? I can't afford to pay someone to fix it.
What model? It works on a 2001 to 2008 Porsche 996 and 997 Turbo and yours falls in that range. Might require a few mods to the procedure. Good luck!
2003 Sedona. I don't have the same stop leak Will radiator stop leak work with the red oil you recommended?
Tough one. The Sedona spoiler option is a rare one indeed and should be kept in tip top shape for resale. Therefore I would have to recommend biting the bullet for the Power Steering Stop Leak. It'll set you back a pricey $10, but well worth it for your automotive investment.
Thank you for the quick reply. I don't have a spoiler. Its my passenger side door locks. The are stuck in the up position. The red oil has been leaking from the locks on my parking space for a while. I bet they are filled with air.
I did a search for a how to video to fix them and yours showed up so I guess the basics are the same. Its my day drive so I plan to take things apart and replace / bleed the air out this weekend. $10 isn't too bad so I'll go with locus stop leak. Thanks again for all you help!! I hope one day to also own a Porsche.
My left ram leaking, should I replace all orings for both rams and motor and replace fluid with ATF+stop leak?
Would this fix work on the older power antennas?
It would work on a hydraulic power antenna. However, in all but the most exotic of cars where originality overrides functionality, replacing the hydraulic system with a hand crank will be more reliable and cost effective.
Hello Everyone
Where did he get the new O-rings for the poiston?
I used an automotive O-ring assortment bought online & found the best fit.
How do I make spoiler staying up?
See comments from Jonathan H. and Daniel I. Good luck!
What would you charge if I sent you mine in the mail.could you do it for me
You can give / sell a person a fish and they eat for a day. Teach them to fish and they eat for a lifetime. This channel is about teaching people how to fish... with a pvc pipe and used fishing line... using dug up worms. No can do, but thanks for the vote of confidence!
The first minute of this video should be called "how to steal a Porsche 996 Turbo Spoiler"
Luckily, the spoiler automatically retracts below 45mph and must be raised to twist for removal. I'll bet there aren't too many would be thieves who can run that fast while wrenching on my spoiler...
@@neuntwelven mine is currently stuck in the up position 😂
@@geldingmakr I would guess that your motor is not running. Check wire voltage using the spoiler button. If no voltage, check fuses. If you have voltage, you may have a bad motor. On a positive note, you may not have a leak if it is staying up!
@@neuntwelven where do I check for voltage? Back at the motor under the wing?
@@geldingmakr Yes. Two wires go to the motor on the passenger side of assembly under spoiler sandwiched in the plastic cover. Not the easiest to access, so check the fuse first (D7, 15A on mine).
This is a compere waste of time. Just upgrade to the full electronic e-Ram kit and ditch the hydraulics altogether.
That is a good alternative. However it costs $1600+ and removes originality. This costs about $20 (o-rings and hydraulic fluid). Both require installation time, this might add 1-2 hours of rebuild time. Hopefully, this video makes it clear what is involved. Mine is working as new 2 years later. Thanks for watching.