I’d just bought a new charger unit because couldn’t get any lights at all on unit and same result. I have previously changed battery so after all your findings I think I need another battery. Thank you I’ve now subscribed to your channel.
Many modern battery management chips are not resettable so if a cell drops below the set cut off voltage the unit will not recharge or allow further use even if the cell/s regain voltage or are charged up by another means. And a power hungry motor will pull a good cell to below the cut off voltage, I never let battery pack go below a quarter charge because of this, I keep a close eye on the power level indicators in order to prevent the management system shutting down.
@@sim6699 Most do these days except on some very cheap products that either have the older chips or none at all. For all that Lithium batteries are touted as being superior to lead acid, this is only the case where weight might be a concern. For maximum life a lithium really needs to be run between 30 and 80 % of charge range and the only things that I have seen where it is possible to regulate that is a few laptops most phones can be set to shut down at certain charge states and windows 10 allows that as well but no maximum charge level you have to keep an eye on the charging and unplug at the right time.
Pat, thanks for this, it's in the nature of Lithium that they need balanced charging and the quality og the BMS boards are not up to a standard, cheers
I'm currently at war with one of these things (SV11/V7, I think) and at a bit of an impasse at the moment. The original problem was that the trigger was jammed down in the on position but the device was not working, so it was simply dead at this point. I watched a few videos and got to work, assuming it was something to do with the trigger mechanism, as that seems the obvious problem. I disassembled the main mechanical bits and got the battery removed, on doing so I noticed that the switch on the battery was fully depressed and would not return to the top position (off). I gave this switch a little tickle, just to see if it was something obvious, and it eventually sprung back into life. At this point I noticed that I had three screws from the battery on the table but also a small, around 1cm, spring sitting there, which I hadn't removed at any point. It isn't the spring for the main trigger control. As things stand now, when I replace the battery into the main body, the motor kicks into action without any other user input. There is also no way to deactivate. The trigger mechanism seems to be in good shape, as much as I can tell from push and pulling it, from both outside and inside, but has no bearing on the motor being on or off, only battery removal/replacement does this. My thinking is that the problem is possibly the trigger, the battery button or the battery electronics, although I have no idea why I'm getting binary voltage and/or where the small spring came from.
Hi, they are an awful design, the spring I believe is a return for the intermediate switch rod. This connects the trigger to the micro switch. Apart from the kill chip the other problem is that there is an automatic throttle feature. On start the motor will draw 20 amps for instant start, but this is unsustainable and so the circuitry ramps the current down, dyson are bad polluters of plastic waste, cheers
@@TheInfoworks - I had another go today and managed to get it totally apart, motor and trigger out, etc. Nothing obviously broken that I could see, everything leads back to the battery. I've done what I can and put it back together, I'll recommend a replacement battery or a new model.
Companies Implement planned obsolescence when designing products to market, as they want you to buy another in the future. I've processed a few laptop batteries, most having over 70% capacity remaining but bad BMS, giving under 1v output.
I’ve had same issues a year in then checked online only to find dozens of tear down videos.I didn’t spend all that money on something only to tear it down.The company should be responsible for replacing/repairing any issues.
Hi, all my units are reclaimed, of the four 2 had bad batteries and one had a damaged drive cog. I think the drive damage can be down to operator error. Cheers
I took apart one of the battery packs for a vacuum and it has some sort of proximity sensor if its not near a handle in a right position it will not work. perhaps your battery has it as well
Hi Andy I hope you can remember me it's gavin , I failed my split level cut on the assessment day :( , I've just nearly took a screw driver to my phone from watching you with that Nokia lol because my speaker is a bit faulty,, still paying for my phone and the wife would kill me dead if I really broke it 😅, got some Dwault batteries for you if I see you again and drills if there any good to you ,
Gavin, I think there is a space coming up soon if you get the reassessment request in. Those drills may make a good video, remember your escape routes, cheers
Yes, there is a common BMS problem. Both of my batteries are fully charged (tested by meter), yet neither will run on max for more than 1-2 seconds and start kicking out on low setting after about 1 minute. The cells are good and the BMS's are overly complex cheap crap.
@@TheInfoworks , isn't it the BMS's purpose to prevent those types of things? And has anyone figured out a work around. Because obviously, these battery producers know this problem and won't do anything about it. Just pissing and ripping people off. The great Dyson vacuum is simply a money sucker.
@@TheInfoworksIt has a deliberate time out built into the bms there's plenty of life left in the cells, actually there needs to be 2 rows of batteries in parallel to reduce the current draw and heat by better than 50% that way batteries would last much longer due to not being overloaded, yes it would be heavier to handle. Really a very poor designed expensive overrated piece of junk truth being told for what it is. Of course I'm not going to be liked for telling the truth. The battery bms can be reprogrammed to be less prone to shutting off to stop charging.
Some computer batteries are reputed to be programmed for “x” cycles, I wonder if Mr Dyson does the same, I have taken quiet a lot apart and it’s always the board , but as you say good cells for high drain repair .
The problem is the BMS's they make arn't resetable so as soon as it spots a cell going to low or a current spike that is too high, it goes nope i'm broken now. I've ordered a new BMS board from aliexpress for my dyson
Please can I ask a question: I have a DC45 and the Dyson stopped working last week. The voltage on the battery was 300 mV. There is no charging issue. I checked it with a second Dyson/charger in my household. I ordered a new battery on Amazon which came yesterday. I measured the voltage on the new battery which was 20.65 volts. I installed the battery (type A) and my Dyson was running for about 10 seconds and then stopped again! I left the Dyson on the wall charger for one night but the only thing I get is a slow flashing green light on top. Voltage is still 20.6 volts. What can I do more to get the Dyson up and running again?
Hello. Thank you for the video. I have a similar Dyson. However on mine when I put the battery back into the machine it starts without me pressing the trigger and I can't stop it running. I would appreciate any advice that you can give me. Thank you. Regards. Elio
Hi, the power control is controlled by a micro switch on the battery board. You will have to check that this switch is fitted correctly. It sounds like it is being depressed all the time, cheers
There should be a reed switch on one end of the PCB. Wave a magnet past it and I think it may reset the BCM. I have a v7 that I reset it's BCM that way.
@@TheInfoworks I also had a good battery but no voltage coming out (Dyson v8) and before throwing it away, i plugged it back in and it worked. I don't know what I did, so the magnet may have reset in my testing. I glued the case back around the battery and it works.
The worse thing as well is if you have a blinking blue battery and it's been super dead for a while. Don't remove it without giving it at least 15 minutes of charge before removing it. Any jostling of the contacts upon removal of the battery can cause slight arcing and undercharge one or more cells causing a major under charge and throwing the amber code causing no charge recovery. Or if an under charged battery gets to cold that flashes the battery and that renders the charge useless, especially if it's an old sluggish battery. I learned the hard way and picked a Dyson v6 out of a bargain bin at a flea market for 15 bucks. Battery was flashing blue which was good. But as soon as I removed it and pressed the button the light flashed amber 32 times followed by a green light and I knew it was toast. I put a charger to it and to no avail. Luckily I went to a pawnshop and found a powerhead on the shelf with all the end attachments and a discharged battery doing the blue flash for 20 bucks. However before I took the battery out of that one I gave it at least a 15 minute charge, because I didn't know how old the battery was. Then I transferred the battery to the defective battery machine and voila it worked. Let the battery charge for 3 and a half hours and now I have a spare parts machine. Sometimes used machines at the right time are life savers
This is gobbledegook !!! You say "Any jostling of the contacts upon removal of the battery can cause slight arcing and undercharge one or more cells causing a major under charge" There is no way "jostling" or other mechanical movement can cause the battery to discharge !!! Batteries are a chemical storage of electrical energy - jostling them does not discharge them.
Hi! On my Dyson v7 , if I hold the start switch I get a one second blue light then I repeatedly get 5 flashing amber lights separated by a few second between each sessions! I bought a new battery and it comes steady blue for a few seconds then it turns off! The vacuum still doesn’t start. You said in the video that a flashing amber light is a temporary fault! Is this a Motor or a battery issue for me? Why is it not working? Tks for any help you can provide!
Hi, Dyson are not the best, down to a price not up to a standard. It sounds like a motor fault. Is the motor or rotor blocked and so unable to start? This could then draw a huge current and the BMS would shut down, Cheers
@@TheInfoworks Tks! I have no way to see if motor is blocked! But the Last time I used it all worked very well and I plugged it in after use to recharge! I found another UA-camr who explains that flashing amber lights of less that 10 (mine flashes 5 times pauses & flashes again 5 times) is a faulty charger cord issue! What do you think of that possibility?? I’m Considering ordering a new charger! Again Tks for your input here much appreciated
@@TheInfoworks just updating you on my issue! I checked the motor and it is blocked it won’t turn!! I also checked cord and used a borrowed one and both charging blocks worked well! I seek a replacement motor block from Dyson! 😉
@@louisnoreau1106 Can you take the suction impeller apart? it may be that the motor is OK but just needs the fan cleaning of grit that prevents it turning. Hope you are a subscriber, cheers
@@TheInfoworks Tks for replying! The fan look ok and cleaned when I had this portion opened! It would just not turn freely as if if was jammed inside! I’ll be ordering the motor body handle from Dyson for apprx $160 it will be like a new vacuum for Me! Yes I subscribe and Tks for everything!
Don't use metered bench power supplies on digital Dyson motors. The battery powerboard circuitry has to match the algorithms of the battery circuitry which is also the fault center module for the whole vacuum circuitry a programmed driver. Even the Dewalt battery kits come with an algorithm circuit board to match Dysons Vacuum software ( not recommended). These kits are almost like upgrading your vehicles fuel management system for better performance, but risks the long term performance, by omitting or bypassing certain faults. It's always best to stick to original parts when it comes to electrical components in a Dyson. Metered bench power supplies that don't conform to Dysons regulations will cause modulated pulses because the software can't recognize the input algorithms properly.
This is simply not true. I repaired a DC35 Dyson Vacuum batery and used my metered bench power supply to charge it multiple times. In fact my metered supply was very useful because it told me the current draw, and I could see as the current tapered off that the battery was at the end of charge.
@Ants Field DC35 has a v4 motor running at 300 phases per second. The V6 has the upgraded ceramic motor with 600 phases per second running at 120000 rpm. On the top right of the v6 powerhead motor circuit board there's a data link terminal for attaching a monitor that reads the software and reads the battery management software as well, which Dyson technicians use to diagnose issues which include shorts or connection issues load and draw. Also if the radial seals in the motor are blocked with dirt you'll get pulsing and overheating issues, which can cause code issues, and reduced performance of the unit, pulsing codes don't only mean battery faults. The motor can also cut out due to overload and heat and constant use in max mode when both the powerbrush and powerhead are constantly used which is not only hard on the battery but other components.
I’d just bought a new charger unit because couldn’t get any lights at all on unit and same result. I have previously changed battery so after all your findings I think I need another battery. Thank you I’ve now subscribed to your channel.
Thanks.
Sam from Australia 🇦🇺
Good to hear from you, cheers
Many modern battery management chips are not resettable so if a cell drops below the set cut off voltage the unit will not recharge or allow further use even if the cell/s regain voltage or are charged up by another means. And a power hungry motor will pull a good cell to below the cut off voltage, I never let battery pack go below a quarter charge because of this, I keep a close eye on the power level indicators in order to prevent the management system shutting down.
Hi, now that sounds like good advice, it makes sense to not deep cycle batteries, cheers
Sounds good advice if many BMS have that feature
@@sim6699 Most do these days except on some very cheap products that either have the older chips or none at all. For all that Lithium batteries are touted as being superior to lead acid, this is only the case where weight might be a concern. For maximum life a lithium really needs to be run between 30 and 80 % of charge range and the only things that I have seen where it is possible to regulate that is a few laptops most phones can be set to shut down at certain charge states and windows 10 allows that as well but no maximum charge level you have to keep an eye on the charging and unplug at the right time.
All that money gone because of over complex. Great video as usual 👍
Pat, thanks for this, it's in the nature of Lithium that they need balanced charging and the quality og the BMS boards are not up to a standard, cheers
I'm currently at war with one of these things (SV11/V7, I think) and at a bit of an impasse at the moment. The original problem was that the trigger was jammed down in the on position but the device was not working, so it was simply dead at this point. I watched a few videos and got to work, assuming it was something to do with the trigger mechanism, as that seems the obvious problem. I disassembled the main mechanical bits and got the battery removed, on doing so I noticed that the switch on the battery was fully depressed and would not return to the top position (off). I gave this switch a little tickle, just to see if it was something obvious, and it eventually sprung back into life. At this point I noticed that I had three screws from the battery on the table but also a small, around 1cm, spring sitting there, which I hadn't removed at any point. It isn't the spring for the main trigger control.
As things stand now, when I replace the battery into the main body, the motor kicks into action without any other user input. There is also no way to deactivate. The trigger mechanism seems to be in good shape, as much as I can tell from push and pulling it, from both outside and inside, but has no bearing on the motor being on or off, only battery removal/replacement does this. My thinking is that the problem is possibly the trigger, the battery button or the battery electronics, although I have no idea why I'm getting binary voltage and/or where the small spring came from.
Hi, they are an awful design, the spring I believe is a return for the intermediate switch rod. This connects the trigger to the micro switch. Apart from the kill chip the other problem is that there is an automatic throttle feature. On start the motor will draw 20 amps for instant start, but this is unsustainable and so the circuitry ramps the current down, dyson are bad polluters of plastic waste, cheers
@@TheInfoworks - I had another go today and managed to get it totally apart, motor and trigger out, etc. Nothing obviously broken that I could see, everything leads back to the battery. I've done what I can and put it back together, I'll recommend a replacement battery or a new model.
@@bradburyrobinson HI, probably a non dyson product, as you may see I like the Gtech and have fixed 3 out of 3 without buying a battery, cheers
Companies Implement planned obsolescence when designing products to market, as they want you to buy another in the future. I've processed a few laptop batteries, most having over 70% capacity remaining but bad BMS, giving under 1v output.
Hi, yes all part of the conspiracy to consume, cheers
I’ve had same issues a year in then checked online only to find dozens of tear down videos.I didn’t spend all that money on something only to tear it down.The company should be responsible for replacing/repairing any issues.
Hi, all my units are reclaimed, of the four 2 had bad batteries and one had a damaged drive cog. I think the drive damage can be down to operator error. Cheers
Any warranty left should be the first action.
I took apart one of the battery packs for a vacuum and it has some sort of proximity sensor if its not near a handle in a right position it will not work. perhaps your battery has it as well
Hi, I tried all sorts of things including magnets, no go, cheers
Hi Andy
I hope you can remember me it's gavin , I failed my split level cut on the assessment day :( , I've just nearly took a screw driver to my phone from watching you with that Nokia lol because my speaker is a bit faulty,, still paying for my phone and the wife would kill me dead if I really broke it 😅, got some Dwault batteries for you if I see you again and drills if there any good to you ,
Gavin, I think there is a space coming up soon if you get the reassessment request in. Those drills may make a good video, remember your escape routes, cheers
Yes, there is a common BMS problem. Both of my batteries are fully charged (tested by meter), yet neither will run on max for more than 1-2 seconds and start kicking out on low setting after about 1 minute. The cells are good and the BMS's are overly complex cheap crap.
Exactly and I'm convinced that BMS problems are caused by discharging the batteries to shut down levels every time. Cheers
@@TheInfoworks , isn't it the BMS's purpose to prevent those types of things? And has anyone figured out a work around. Because obviously, these battery producers know this problem and won't do anything about it. Just pissing and ripping people off. The great Dyson vacuum is simply a money sucker.
@@milvolts1 it's down to a price not up to a standard, cheers
@@TheInfoworksIt has a deliberate time out built into the bms there's plenty of life left in the cells, actually there needs to be 2 rows of batteries in parallel to reduce the current draw and heat by better than 50% that way batteries would last much longer due to not being overloaded, yes it would be heavier to handle. Really a very poor designed expensive overrated piece of junk truth being told for what it is. Of course I'm not going to be liked for telling the truth. The battery bms can be reprogrammed to be less prone to shutting off to stop charging.
@@TheInfoworks is a scam actually
Great video Andy !
Cheers, see the comment about re setting the BCM with a magnet.
Some computer batteries are reputed to be programmed for “x” cycles, I wonder if Mr Dyson does the same, I have taken quiet a lot apart and it’s always the board , but as you say good cells for high drain repair .
Hi, yes and I thought of shorting out the board and just using the bench power supply to change this pack. Wonder how long it would last? cheers
I didnt see you test the micro switch?
That's right, lost the footage but I did test it and it was fine, cheers
The problem is the BMS's they make arn't resetable so as soon as it spots a cell going to low or a current spike that is too high, it goes nope i'm broken now. I've ordered a new BMS board from aliexpress for my dyson
Hi, thanks for the comment, I agree and maybe this problem is compounded by constant deep cycling to the point of shut off, cheers
@@TheInfoworks Actually russian developer (SageLeo) fixing "red" light problem by reflashing his BMS firmware. He does not give his firmware :-(
There is a way to reset the lock status, first balance the pack, no need to change the BMS. video here: ua-cam.com/video/7t9yA3_KUI0/v-deo.html
good work
Thanks, the BMS is the weak point, don't discharge until it switches off, cheers
Awesome
It works for me, but this unit was reclaimed from a skip, cheers
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 😎 (Hokitika Sth WESTLAND NZ)
Please can I ask a question: I have a DC45 and the Dyson stopped working last week. The voltage on the battery was 300 mV. There is no charging issue. I checked it with a second Dyson/charger in my household. I ordered a new battery on Amazon which came yesterday. I measured the voltage on the new battery which was 20.65 volts. I installed the battery (type A) and my Dyson was running for about 10 seconds and then stopped again! I left the Dyson on the wall charger for one night but the only thing I get is a slow flashing green light on top. Voltage is still 20.6 volts. What can I do more to get the Dyson up and running again?
Sounds like you were supplied with a duff battery, any chance of testing it on another machine? cheers
Hello. Thank you for the video. I have a similar Dyson. However on mine when I put the battery back into the machine it starts without me pressing the trigger and I can't stop it running. I would appreciate any advice that you can give me. Thank you. Regards. Elio
Hi, the power control is controlled by a micro switch on the battery board. You will have to check that this switch is fitted correctly. It sounds like it is being depressed all the time, cheers
@TheInfoworks Thank uou very much. I will check it out.
There should be a reed switch on one end of the PCB. Wave a magnet past it and I think it may reset the BCM. I have a v7 that I reset it's BCM that way.
Frank, thanks for the info, always worth a try, cheers
@@TheInfoworks I also had a good battery but no voltage coming out (Dyson v8) and before throwing it away, i plugged it back in and it worked. I don't know what I did, so the magnet may have reset in my testing. I glued the case back around the battery and it works.
Lucky you were persistent, there's nothing stranger that strange happenings, cheers @@heelspurs
The worse thing as well is if you have a blinking blue battery and it's been super dead for a while. Don't remove it without giving it at least 15 minutes of charge before removing it. Any jostling of the contacts upon removal of the battery can cause slight arcing and undercharge one or more cells causing a major under charge and throwing the amber code causing no charge recovery. Or if an under charged battery gets to cold that flashes the battery and that renders the charge useless, especially if it's an old sluggish battery. I learned the hard way and picked a Dyson v6 out of a bargain bin at a flea market for 15 bucks. Battery was flashing blue which was good. But as soon as I removed it and pressed the button the light flashed amber 32 times followed by a green light and I knew it was toast. I put a charger to it and to no avail. Luckily I went to a pawnshop and found a powerhead on the shelf with all the end attachments and a discharged battery doing the blue flash for 20 bucks. However before I took the battery out of that one I gave it at least a 15 minute charge, because I didn't know how old the battery was. Then I transferred the battery to the defective battery machine and voila it worked. Let the battery charge for 3 and a half hours and now I have a spare parts machine. Sometimes used machines at the right time are life savers
interesting, good back ground info, cheers
This is gobbledegook !!!
You say "Any jostling of the contacts upon removal of the battery can cause slight arcing and undercharge one or more cells causing a major under charge"
There is no way "jostling" or other mechanical movement can cause the battery to discharge !!!
Batteries are a chemical storage of electrical energy - jostling them does not discharge them.
Hi! On my Dyson v7 , if I hold the start switch I get a one second blue light then I repeatedly get 5 flashing amber lights separated by a few second between each sessions!
I bought a new battery and it comes steady blue for a few seconds then it turns off! The vacuum still doesn’t start.
You said in the video that a flashing amber light is a temporary fault! Is this a
Motor or a battery issue for me? Why is it not working? Tks for any help you can provide!
Hi, Dyson are not the best, down to a price not up to a standard. It sounds like a motor fault. Is the motor or rotor blocked and so unable to start? This could then draw a huge current and the BMS would shut down, Cheers
@@TheInfoworks Tks! I have no way to see if motor is blocked! But the Last time I used it all worked very well and I plugged it in after use to recharge! I found another UA-camr who explains that flashing amber lights of less that 10 (mine flashes 5 times pauses & flashes again 5 times) is a faulty charger cord issue! What do you think of that possibility?? I’m
Considering ordering a new charger! Again Tks for your input here much appreciated
@@TheInfoworks just updating you on my issue! I checked the motor and it is blocked it won’t turn!! I also checked cord and used a borrowed one and both charging blocks worked well! I seek a replacement motor block from Dyson! 😉
@@louisnoreau1106 Can you take the suction impeller apart? it may be that the motor is OK but just needs the fan cleaning of grit that prevents it turning. Hope you are a subscriber, cheers
@@TheInfoworks Tks for replying! The fan look ok and cleaned when I had this portion opened! It would just not turn freely as if if was jammed inside! I’ll be ordering the motor body handle from Dyson for apprx $160 it will be like a new vacuum for
Me! Yes I subscribe and Tks for everything!
Don't use metered bench power supplies on digital Dyson motors. The battery powerboard circuitry has to match the algorithms of the battery circuitry which is also the fault center module for the whole vacuum circuitry a programmed driver. Even the Dewalt battery kits come with an algorithm circuit board to match Dysons Vacuum software ( not recommended). These kits are almost like upgrading your vehicles fuel management system for better performance, but risks the long term performance, by omitting or bypassing certain faults. It's always best to stick to original parts when it comes to electrical components in a Dyson. Metered bench power supplies that don't conform to Dysons regulations will cause modulated pulses because the software can't recognize the input algorithms properly.
Thanks for this info, so that's the reason.
This is simply not true.
I repaired a DC35 Dyson Vacuum batery and used my metered bench power supply to charge it multiple times. In fact my metered supply was very useful because it told me the current draw, and I could see as the current tapered off that the battery was at the end of charge.
@@nzantsfield that's what I found, cheers
@Ants Field DC35 has a v4 motor running at 300 phases per second. The V6 has the upgraded ceramic motor with 600 phases per second running at 120000 rpm. On the top right of the v6 powerhead motor circuit board there's a data link terminal for attaching a monitor that reads the software and reads the battery management software as well, which Dyson technicians use to diagnose issues which include shorts or connection issues load and draw. Also if the radial seals in the motor are blocked with dirt you'll get pulsing and overheating issues, which can cause code issues, and reduced performance of the unit, pulsing codes don't only mean battery faults. The motor can also cut out due to overload and heat and constant use in max mode when both the powerbrush and powerhead are constantly used which is not only hard on the battery but other components.
@@Ecksterphono interesting details but for the average Joe it's down to maintenance, as is with most things, cheers
You are just guessing
Sad
You didn't even fix it lmao
Just proving Dyson is a major polluter, batteries designed to fail.