Shiplapping an Accent Wall That Looks Perfect | Shiplap With No Seams!
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- Shiplapping one wall in a room looks best when you have no seams. Some people prefer the rugged farmhouse look with uneven shiplap that looks like it's been there for years...But not this Guy! I like my shiplap to look seamless and beautiful. It's a lot easier than you might think. Between this video and my "15 Shiplap Installation Don'ts" video (link below), you will have pretty much all of the wisdom you will need for any shiplap project. Installing shiplap can be pretty fun and the final product, very satisfying.
My good friend Dusty Bottoms joins me for this special episode of Dude Sawdust. He's got some serious skills when it comes to finish carpentry and knows how to install shiplap like a beast, and I must admit it is nice to have someone in the shop with me as it sometimes can get a bit lonely producing killer content all by myself.
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Check out the 15 Don'ts of Shiplap Installation here:
• Shiplapping an Accent ...
Visit Taytools Affiliate Link: 3,000+ Specialty Hand Tools for Woodworkers & Crafters of all types: lddy.no/12imo
Lowes Shiplap: www.lowes.com/...
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These are tools used in this video or recommended for Shiplapping projects
Dewalt Miter Saw: rivr.link/LH9-...
Dewalt Table Saw: rivr.link/LH9-...
Dewalt Jig Saw: rivr.link/LH9-...
Ryobi 18 Gauge Brad Nailer: rivr.link/LH9-...
Ryobi 16 Gauge Finish Nailer: rivr.link/LH9-...
Porter Cable Circular Saw: rivr.link/LH9-...
Johnson 4 foot level: rivr.link/LH9-...
DryDex Spackling: rivr.link/LH9-...
Putty Knife Set: rivr.link/LH9-...
1 1/2 inch 16 gauge finish nails: rivr.link/LH9-...
1 1/2 inch 18 gauge brad nails: rivr.link/LH9-...
Crowbar: rivr.link/LH9-...
5 in 1 painters tool: rivr.link/LH9-...
Utility Knife: rivr.link/LH9-...
Titebond 2 Glue: rivr.link/LH9-...
Glue Brushes: rivr.link/LH9-...
150 grit sandpaper: rivr.link/LH9-...
Irwin Chalk Reel: rivr.link/LH9-...
Filming Equipment
Lavalier Microphone: rivr.link/LH9-...
Lighting: rivr.link/LH9-...
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Also, tell me what challenges you have faced when doing your own shiplap or any questions about shiplapping below!
What shiplap did you use exactly?
@@evanyates1079 We used MDF shiplap from Lowes. Each piece measures 1/2-in thick x 7-1/4-in wide actual. The nominal size is 1inch x 8inch. I'm glad you found my channel and thanks for subscribing. I have a video coming out tomorrow morning, make sure to check it out!
um first shut off electrical. um why not buy 16 or 20 footers = no seams. They make both. Um you HAVE TO mention to put box extenders, they come in several varieties, on any electrical boxes/switches. why? so you don't burn down your house, box extenders shield around gap out further since your outlets and switches are now further offset from wall. uh you have smooth face non textured ship lap don't use brush or roller, thats a no no spray or use flat pad. These are just my starters suggestions. Why cut all those ship lap pieces to left of door only to cover with trim? just use one long peice of scrap or 1/2 inch pine. dosn't even need to perfectly fill space just as a base to the custom trim you put on nail to. These are just my starters suggestions. I've owned rentals for 30 years and flip multitudes of home do a lot of work myself
@@jjohnson8977 Thanks for watching and for your valuable input! Box extenders? Yes, great idea. My wife and I are both anit-burn-the-house-down kinda people so I will likely be making the adjustment. Thanks for the tip!
Why use pieces of shiplap under the trim? Well since I needed exact thickness so everything would match, I though it was actually the easiest idea since we already had a little extra material. I guess you could say there is more than one to skin a cat. But your suggestion is likely ideal for most and a good one at that.
Painting? That's my wife department and I let her do whatever she wants and is most easy for her.
16-20 footers? Great question. My truck bed is only 5 feet (with no lumber rack) and hauling anything longer than 8 feet can be risky due to the distance and speeds that I have to drive. But yes, some day I hope to have a longer truck bed and maybe even a lumber rack. I'm just a DIYer so if I were in the trades then.....yes all the way.
Turn the power off? Great idea unless you want good content for a video where you may at some point accidentally shock yourself. haha!
Once again, thanks for watching and I hope you will come back to watch more. Hit that subscribe button if you haven't already!
Why would you start at the bottom? Start at the top where you see a full piece instead of starting at the bottom where you could end up with a shorter piece that will see. A shorter piece at the bottom can be covered up with furniture.
After releasing this video I was surprised at how many comments I have received about this point you make. I'll concede that I am in the minority. I guess my eyes go to the baseboard first.
I tols hubby the same he explained thr flow, OK but you could measure and have the thin one at the bottom.
@@DudeSawdusthowever the baseboard could cover any imperfection. You must be related to my hubby bugs the heck out of me. Smh.
Awesome video, one of the best shiplap demonstrations I’ve seen. Thanks!
Thanks! I’m glad you enjoyed it. And thanks for subscribing too. Hope you come back for more videos 👍👍👍
It looked great until she put that hideous color on it:!
She feels the same way as you. We decided to stick with the color that all of the baseboards in the house were painted when it was built (brand new home). We didn't pick swiss coffee but have been changing it to a different white in some of the rooms as we tackle projects in those rooms. But that wall can't be a different color since it is in an open area (loft) that runs congruently with other parts of the house. But, yes, we have had multiple conversations about our dislike of swiss coffee. 😉
Hey man awesome video! I liked the use of your animations and wow some good tips in there as well. I liked the idea of using tape for that door trim and also the washer on the ceiling was a nice tip as well! Keep it up!
Thanks! I upgraded my canva account finally and I think it’s paying off. Thanks for encouraging me to do so. 👍
?? Great 👍 work, watch a few of your videos!! Im looking at doing shiplap on my ceiling in my back house, but I'm on the FL cost, so high humidity year round, think MDF would be risky, but heard natural wood is a lot of work with a lot of waste, even think PVC, but not sure if paint would stick, also if go Tongue and groove, could u just finish nail the tongue and not have to worry about major nail coving.. any advice would be great! Thank you for the video!!!
Thanks for watching! No doubt humidity and MDF will never get along. If there is any doubt then I would just use wood. You will sleep better at night. PVC? Not a fan to say the least. It just looks and feels cheap. Lots of people like it but I can't stand it. Many suggest just nailing the planks at just the tongue like you said. Its a great way eliminate having to fill holes. If you are nailing into the ceiling then this method might not be as strong. Good luck with your project!
Just a heads up, I do high end painting and for the lines and holes I use a lightweight bondo it’s harder than spackle, you don’t over sand it like sometimes happens with spackle, and it won’t crack like spackle does, but do not put a lot on or you will create craters around the area you are sanding. I use a rectangle razor blade to put it on just enough to cover the hole or lines, never had a problem with it and it gives me peace of mind knowing it will last along time. Just a little tip I thought I would share.
Great tip! I'll put this one in my tool belt. Thanks so much for watching
So what did I do wrong? I used spackle, and it cracked everywhere
I'm so sorry to hear that. Extreme changes in temperature and/or wood movement may be the reason for the cracking. Since I put out this video I have learned another way to blend seems but I haven't tried it yet but hear good things. It's basically: paint the seam, then light sanding, paint again, then sand, paint again, then sand. Usually 3 times is enough but each time you do it the more the seam disappears. Does this crack less? I believe it does but I haven't tried it yet.
where do I buy shiplap? what kind ? can I buy at homedepot or Lowes
Lowe’s actually has a decent selection. I can’t seem to find anything decent at Home Depot
Why didn’t you nail the shiplap in the joint as opposed to the surface. It would eliminate having to plaster the hundreds of nail holes?
It’s just a preference thing. The boards are more secure and since I had the time to give it TLC, why the heck not 🤷♂️
Awesome video! The wall came out great! Aunt Robin sure knows how to lay out trim! It came out great! Great to see Dusty Bottoms again as well! ;)
Thanks! Someday Dusty Bottoms just may have his own playlist
Did you caulk along where the trim meets the shiplap? (Vertically and the horizontally along the top)... Or just leave it?
Make sure to be wearing hearing protection when using your tools! Just a healthy tip from an Audiologist. =P
Great Advice! Where were you when I saw Kiss live? Thanks to them I don't hear my power tools very well at all.
Did you have to remove the baseboard on the adjacent wall and shorten it to make room for the new baseboard? And does the new baseboard match the baseboard on the adjacent wall or does it appear different (bigger)?
Why not just caulk the edges and the ceiling?
Caulking the ceiling actually is a good idea and I have done it before. It all depends on how “good” of job you want to do. Truth is usually the caulk in the ceiling is too far to really notice any imperfections. Knowing both skills is best. Caulk the edges?….it can be tempting but caulk shrinks and is noticeable
Well, nice work guys. However, I did my DR accent wall starting at the top for a good reason. Your eyes always look up and I wanted the boards to remain the same width down to the base board. Unless you measure the LXW and calculate the numbers of boards( 5",6" 0r 7.5") needed, then you will have to split the boards to fit the 1st and last board and I wanted better symmetrical look. It turned out great.
You make a great argument. I’ve seen other UA-camrs preach the same idea as you. Really it comes down to personal preference. I’m just a look down first kinda guy. I’m glad you found our channel. I hope you come back again and again. Thanks for watching!👍😁
@@DudeSawdust Absolutely!! You and Dusty are too funny and like the workmanship you both did. Your Aunt had a great idea as well. Looks nice when shiplap is framed in. Clean lines are timeless.
Keep the compliments coming. You’ll be our favorite 🤩
What did you end up with a short/thin one at the top? Why was the thin one not put at the bottom where the crown molding could have covered it?
Man...the washer and pencil along the ceiling...such a simple, but amazingly helpful tip!!
So glad I could help🤓
You must use adhesive at the butt joints or that light weight filler will just crack an pop out over time
I also like the thumbnail as well! Oh and I don’t think you need to include if it has paid promotion unless you are being sponsored by someone. If you are using just the Amazon links I don’t think you need to disclose that your video has a paid promotion!
I think your right about that but I saw someone else do it and said something about the FCC requiring it. I need to research it more.
Great video! What did you guys for the trim pieces?
I’m not at the house right now but if I remember correctly I believe it was MDF
Of course the right thing to do it simply get longer boards.
I wish I could safely transport longer boards in my 5 foot truck bed
Love this video! Explained in great detail and no steps were missed! Thank you
I’m so glad you liked it. Thanks so much for watching 🤓
I’m wanting to mount my tv on the same wall. Should I do shiplap around the mount or put the mount directly through the shiplap into the wall? And also one end of my wall is open into the hallway should I do the L trim like in this vid?
I would install the shiplap and then mount the TV over it. It is so much easier this way. Trim? Honestly it depends on the look you want. I prefer to trim everything
Im remolding an oldy built in 1948 ceilings nothing square 1 to 1 1/2 in height drywalled over 16” tiles….
good luck! should look great when you are done with it
You did not mention using extension rings for the receptacle boxes, so I assume that you did not use them. (If you did, mentioning them would have been a good idea) NEC 314.20 requires that electrical boxes shall be installed so that the front edge of the box (or box extender) will not be set back of the finished surface more than 1/4". This is to ensure that sparks stay within the box and will not contact combustible material. Further, I shouldn't have to mention that the power to the receptacles should have been turned before the receptacle was removed from the box. What if it had been a child that touched that receptacle, instead of you?
Do you remember what specific trim you used. We did our laundry room. Im searching for ideas
We used the 7-8 inch shiplap from Lowe’s
Great video thanks for sharing, I was faced with the same problem on the door location and this video really helped me out.
I'm glad I could help. Thanks so much for watching
What did you use for the boards and where did you buy them ?
I used MDF 8 inch shiplap and I bought them at Lowes
@@DudeSawdust so if doing a bathroom what product would you suggest? I’m guessing plywood is why you consider “faux” that you spoke of?
In a bathroom I would just avoid MDF. Yes I would suggest using actual wood. And to avoid it being faux shiplap then I’m suggesting that it have the rabbet cuts in them so it doesn’t look like you made your own gaps.
Why not nail on the tongue of the shiplap oppossed to the facep of the board so you dont have a ton of nail spots?
That seems to be a pretty popular option. I prefer a method that is more secure but either way is fine
One time I bit an electric cord when I was younger at 38 when my mommy was vacuuming my room. I was playing call of duty. She always be vacuuming when I played call of duty all day. Now I got that gap in my lip but it’s good for slurpy straws
Sounds like you’re a slurpee half full kind of guy👍
Learned lots of new ideas. Was curious 🤔, what grit sandpaper did you use.
Good question. It’s been a while for me to remember that but I’m pretty sure I used 220, if not then maybe 150.
You'll never patch MDF.
Great video and your 15 tips helped as well. Any tips on a shiplap wall when a window is in the center of the wall?
Great question. If the window has trim then you will have to remove the trim, install the shiplap, then re-trim the window. If the shiplap is not thicker then the window (not likely) trim then you can just butt it up against the trim. If the window doesn't have trim then you should probably trim the window after applying the shiplap. It's really not that complicated but will require a bit more time and detail. Thanks so much for watching and I hope this was helpful.
I shiplap Ed our washroom for the first time .turned out nice .but was wondering what y’all did between the boards where your (nickel) gap was or whatever you used on the gap
Like I guess the color of the wall
I’ll show through
We had to paint between the cracks
But love it.oh I forgot we made our own shiplap out of underlayment .
If you make your own and create your own gaps then yes, the wall will show through. Painting the wall before applying the shiplap is ideal for best look. We used MDF shiplap with the rabbet joint already cut into the boards so the wall is completely covered. We just painted the gaps of the MDF first and then rolled the boards. I'm glad your project came out well! Thanks so much for watching.
Paint the wood first makes it easier but you end up having to touch it up again obviously
Sometimes that’s just the way things are🤷♂️👍
What was that trick with the washer and a pencil. Explain how this helps against the ceiling?
ua-cam.com/video/uqQurUB1xF4/v-deo.html Check out this video where I go into detail about this trick using the proper tool. Its called a scribing tool. But the same can be done with the washer and pencil. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Great video! Well done and looks awesome. My question is about pre-painted boards. Can I just sand them down and re-paint to get the same result? We like the seamless look however board that are only primed in my area are all unavailable. Plenty of all wood product but I already know my walls aren’t straight so hoping to avoid that. Thanks for any input.
Yes you can do that but I wouldn't. They are primed, not pre-painted. Its just a technical difference. You want to paint over the primer that is already there. The primer helps the paint adhere properly to the board and not soak into the MDF. We painted all of our boards a white color over the primer, but you can chose any color. I hope that helps:)
the washer idea was great idea sure beats using a compass
Great Video but I do have a question. Can I install this over plaster walls? I have a 240 yr old house. If so, do i really need to find the studs if the laths are present? Thanks
I don’t have experience putting shiplap on plaster walls but I would say it depends on the thickness of the laths. Try nailing up a test piece (maybe 2 feet long) and the try and pry it off with your hands or crowbar. If you feel decent resistance then I’m sure it will be fine. Just be careful using a crowbar you don’t want to damage the wall. Put a protective piece a scrap wood behind the back of the crowbar like you would when removing baseboard. Watch my skim coating video where I explain and show how to do that. Thanks for watching!
How much can you charge for a job like this ?
Great question, unfortunately there are too many variables to consider. I personally refrain from giving quotes
I thought Steven crowder was doing joinery when I saw the photo😂
That’s hilarious. I’ve heard the name but didn’t know what he looked like. I just looked him up. Very similar 🤣🤣🤣
I want to put shiplap on a cathedral ceiling however the rafters are spaced 24" on center. Would there be any issue with the MDf shiplap sagging between the rafters?
Great Question. 24 inches should be no problem. You may find issues at 36 inches and beyond
@@DudeSawdust Thank you!
We want to do vertical shiplap in mudroom. What about studs when you're working the same direction as the studs? What do we need to know? Thank you!
Great question! This topic I regretfully didn't cover in the video. I talk about my disdain for construction adhesive but that doesn't mean it doesn't come in handy now and then. Vertical shiplap can't be done without it. You'll be able to secure the boards to the studs but not every one. So in this instance, you'll have to use it. Good luck with your project!
You have to install furring strips.
I love the washer with the pencil trick, very nice.
Great job, guys! Props to using Aunti for ideas! Get after it! That's what you guys did and it was fun!
Thank so much! We had a great time making this video. I appreciate you watching, come back again sometime!
Very good job. Thanks. Subscribed and following.
So glad you joined the family! Thanks so much 👍😎
Great Video! Do you happen to have anything explaining in more detail how you made the door trim pieces? I want to do mine the same way. Thanks again!
All I have is what is in the video. The secret is creating a “reveal”. That’s what makes it look correct and visually appealing. Google door trim reveal if you want to know more about that. I hope that helps. If you have a more specific question then maybe I can help.
Alot of interior walls n closets don't have the studs spaced exactly. Use a stud finder
Got to!!!👍
Great video - earned my subscription! (im number 900 :) )
And because of you I'm almost to 1,000 subs! Thanks so much! If you could go get me 999,100 more subs that would be greatly appreciated. Then I be right at 1,000,000. To the MOON!
does it matter if you start at the bottom or top ? Ive seen both
I like starting at the bottom but most like the top. It’s personal preference
Won't you get cracking from expansion or is the MDF stable enough to stay put?
You don’t have to worry about expansion with MDF. The only thing you have to worry about is whether or not it comes in contact with water. If it comes in contact with water it will warp and bubble. Great question!
Can you still brad nail the shiplap on to metal studs?
It won’t work. Construction adhesive is probably your best bet
I'm starting a new band called Nickel Gap!!!
I’ll be your designated dancer
What type of paint did you use? And was the shiplap pre primed?
Swiss coffee from sherwin Williams. Yes it is pre-primed. 👍 thanks for watching 😎
Why didn’t you just use 1x4 for trim installed before you installed the ship lap?
Very helpful, thanks guys!
Great videos guys. Thanks for sharing and God bless.
I’m glad you enjoyed it. Come visit again soon! Thanks 🙏
Me: What flavour is that slurpee?
Dusty: Blue
😂😂😂
Which caulk would you use for clean up gaps and trim?
Danica, That's a great question. In fact, I'm editing a video right now where I go over all of the tools and products for shiplap. I'm hoping to get that out ASAP. But to answer your question I used this caulk right here: amzn.to/3dKOs0h Thanks for subscribing and I hope you come back often to watch more of my videos. Cheers!
I would start at the bottom to hide the Tiny piece of shiplap and paint the wall White first otherwise 👏🏻 good job 👍🏻
Thanks so much! When applying faux shiplap where you must create your own gaps because you can see the wall in the gaps….painting the wall is a very good idea. On the other hand, with the type of board I used, you can’t see the wall so no painting is needed.
@@DudeSawdust aww yes I see!!
Can I install shiplap directly to studs?
It goes, studs, then dry wall, and then shiplap. I wouldn't replace drywall with shiplap.
Thanks guys all three of my issues solved
Glad we could help! These are the kinds of comments I love the most. 👍👍👍. Hope to see you return for more content in the future. I’m working on a cool original accent wall. Hopefully it won’t be too long before I post it. Cheers 👍
Got a question, guys. I want to shiplap a vaulted family room with shiplap. But not sure how to fit/cut the last boards at ceiling area since its vaulted. Any advise? Thanks!!.
Great question. I would get a digital sliding T-bevel gauge. They run 10-20$ on Amazon. Put that up in the top corners of your wall to find the angles. Then trace that angle on the end of your shiplap boards. Measure for length and cut! Good luck, I’d love to hear how it goes.
@@DudeSawdust, I knew you would have an answer for me!! Lol. I really appreciate it. I will take photos before, during and after and share that with you guys!!
Glad I could help!
@@DudeSawdust Thanks for your advice!! Last question, I bought a new tool last year, its by Strongman Tools called Angleizer Template tool. Is that about the same as the one you suggested? I just ordered the digital unit above- will share before, during and after photos soon!! , Thx, from Maryland!!.
@@caroltaylor-long3944 These are different tools that can accomplish similar or same outcomes. I have never used the Angleizer tool before but by the looks of it, it looks like a cool tool with many applications. For your purpose either one should do.
Was the last base trim board at the bottom the original base board or a piece of ship lap? Did you trim the shiplap to create the trim around the door? Do you caulk the horizontal lines? Great video. Thanks!
The baseboard was not shiplap, it was just baseboard with no molding. The trim around the door was not shiplap either, I bought MDF pieces. Caulk the horizontal lines? You mean between the shiplap?....Not at all. I hope those answer are clear and informative. Thanks for watching!
@@DudeSawdust thanks for the quick response.
My pleasure! I always respond as fast as possible. You’re the first to recognize that. Much appreciated 👍. Of course it won’t be so easy when I have 10,000,000 subscribers. Should be any day now.
I cannot believe the amount of people that ask about filling in the horizontal lines on shiplap. What the hell is wrong with you people? So do you not realize if you fill in the horizontal lines you've essentially just created a freaking flat surface wall? Wasn't that what you just covered with shiplap?
Looks good but you should probably have done beveled splice joints with glue instead of butt joints. With any movement in the house and expansion/contraction, those nice spackled butt joints are going to move at some point.
I did really like your solution to the door trim issue. Nicely done.
Yes, The beveled splice would have been a great idea. I'll have to do that with a future project. Thanks for watching. I have a video coming out tomorrow, hope you come back to watch it.
I think I would have staggered all the splices too.
Would paintable caulk work for this?
@@kaylaashby8134 you won’t be able to sand caulk so it will not have the seamless look. It will still have a faint line.
Beveled joints will move the same as butt joints. Granted the gap won't be there but you will see movement in a bevel joint. At least when using pine or probably most real wood.
Beautiful
How can I do this on a wall that has metal studs behind it?
This is a situation where construction adhesive would be a good choice. Typical 16-18 gauge nails will not work for metal studs but after applying the adhesive you could use 16-18 gauge nails (into the dry wall) to help secure the boards while the adhesive dries. But make sure this shiplap look is what you really want and will live with for some time because removing the boards will tear up wall and the dry wall will likely have to be replaced for any future remodel.
@@DudeSawdust that’s what I thought. Thanks for your reply. Great video.
Thanks!
How do you deal with ending on an outside corner?
The tape trim is a great idea!
Thanks! And thanks for watching 👍👍👍
Are you using Brad nails or finished nails?
Dusty Bottoms! 🤣🤣🤣
Glad you liked it😂
Beautiful
Thanks!
Awesome job dudes!
Thanks! And thanks for watching 👍👍👍
Can I ask why you put the "seam" or break in each board lined up in the same spot? I thought you had to space them out similar to what you would do with flooring? Thanks!
The idea is to have a seamless look after applying the filler in the seams. It's an untraditional look, more modern probably. Staggering the boards is what most people do but my wife prefers this look and I'd have to agree with her taste. Ultimately there is no one way to do it. There is only one way to not do it and that is not at all. Shiplap or bust!
@@DudeSawdust Ahh, makes sense! Thanks for the reply dude!
You could also just have bought 12 ft pieces right? That wall does not look like it's more than 12 ft.
thanks
My pleasure 👍🤓
Thanks!!!
So glad we could help 👍👍👍🤓
Thanks…
...You're welcome! Glad you checked out the channel.
Okay I finished my shiplap wall and got it all painted. Looks great except for a few seams which I didn't sand as much as I should have. Can I sand them down again once it's painted, then re-spackle and paint over to 'patch' the seams?
Sorry for the late reply, I just stumbled upon your comment and don't know how i missed it. Yes, your suggestion sounds like a good idea. I would go for it.