WHY I FELL AND WHAT I DO DURING A WIPEOUT || TAHITI PART 1
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- Опубліковано 22 вер 2019
- In depth breakdown of the wipeout from Tahiti, why I think I failed, what I tried to do once I fell, and how it turned out!
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Once you retire please start a podcast or something. You're really well-spoken, and it seems like you have a lot to say about surfing, waves, and just the realness of it all. I'd love to hear what you have to say. The candidness is awesome
Agree agree agree
Nate Munsell i agree also!!!?
Agreed!!
Agreed!!!
agreed. this provided helpful and interesting info not just a bunch of random surf jargon. Thank you!
Awesome breakdown, would love to hear more about these types of scenarios not usually discussed!
@Nathan Florence, best way to bail in a closing out barrel?
also, what are you doing with your breath? are you taking a big breath right b4 impact or you going into the water empty breathed? are you singing a happy song? Do you dash for the surface after the waves passes you or as soon as you feel you are about to pass out regardless of if the wave is still tumbling you? thanks
@@rksnote9635 you want to exhale as much as possible before going under and make sure to dive head first towards the reef...works 9 times out of 10
Will do guys! Taken for granted all the interesting little things we learn over time! Stoked to share them with you and hopefully help you get a little less worked 😂
@@NathanFlorence really interesting, informative breakdown, shakka bro 🤙
That was absolutely the best breakdown I've ever listened to in all my years of surfing, from your in depth analysis of your takeoff to the
entire wipeout scenario. I'm sure plenty of us would enjoy more of these from you. Excellent work !
Art Vandelay thanks man will be putting more out!
I tottaly agree with Art 🤙
Hey Nathan! Not only was that really cool and interesting you may have saved someone’s life with this video. I definitely picked up a few good pointers (like trying to pop out the front to the next surge) keep them coming
Fr sure! Well said.
What I like most is he is bringing us the full surfing experience. Not just all the best most perfect rides. Viewers who have never surfed haven't a clue as to how hard it is to paddle out in big surf or the unspoken. What happens in a massive wipe out. He starts here with admission of over confidence. He drops his ego completely. He examines the technical and psychological aspects all the way through to how to survive being slammed in to a coral reef. As well as how to protect your self and Survive. No one talks about this stuff. This brings a much deeper understanding to the sport the casual viewer would never get. It's hard to get this across to people who have never surfed. My hat's off. Keep bringing this unique content. I'll be watching and sharing with non-surfers. ~ your neighbor.
Most real comment ever, haha! I just got back from my first trip in Indonesia and after my first day out at sea (Lombok) I felt that I had been fooled by instagram, friends and internet who did not tell me about the gruesome reality. I ate so much shit on my first day that I seriously considered quitting the whole surfweek we had planned. However, with some guidance from experienced friends, I finally found my rhythm and day by day learned to love catching waves.. :)
Find your largest most northerly Sandie Shaw break ditch your board
And get ready for the beat down of your life until it isn’t then increase by 2 1/2 foot surfing feet continue this until the desired effect is transferred to your surfing PAS you’ll get less hinges if you’re sure break isn’t made of boulders note to the brave dumb and wise
Most of Us are injured the rest are dead the few that aren’t dead are wise And no longer surf It’s a miracle that any of us are alive
Damn, hitting the reef, realizing your leash is stuck, having the wherewithal to realize the leash is about to snap, then providing the force to snap it, all while being held under after a wipeout is just heroic.
Can’t comprehend the amount of composure and experience it takes to be able to think logically and rationally underneath one of those monsters.
Now I’m ready to charge my local beach break.
Your humility is so amazing and refreshing. Your talent is obviously next level, but your personal comfort is fascinating.
RawAloha thanks man! Glad you enjoyed
Duuuude, I'm following surfing stuff for decades, and that was hands down one of the best, if not the best, wipe out breakdowns and overall wipe out info I've ever seen. Always wondered why nobody ever really talks about it in detail. Thought maybe it's because I'm the only one interested in those details ;-) But I'm sure there's a lot of guys out who appreciate it as well. Thanks!
Master Propper glad you enjoyed it man! More in depth breakdowns coming soon
Never heard a wipeout breakdown like this. Had no idea how much skill is involved with surviving these hold downs. Run along the bottom with the white water?? nuts man. 110% sure Id be dead lol.
Didn’t realize this until I got to Hawaii. The ocean is powerful!
I was shocked when he talked about landing on your "hands and feet!" I thought it was best to cover your head with your arms and clam-shell up. Crazy insights!
One of the most interesting and useful videos of surfing I"ve ever watched.
Guilherme Cruz agreed!
Yo i'm 60 N STILL IN THE H20 and have had more sick wipe outs that i care to remember. This kid is awesome and i hope he continues these little story's all you young bloods follow his lead he is a true pro not full of himself and not afraid to be humbled by mother ocean good on ya bro. SEA YA ON THE BOTTOM TURN ;]
Must be the most scientific and psychological breakdown of a wipe-out I've ever heard. Only someone who has a deep respect for the wave and its power and with so much experience could explain a 10 second bad event so well.
Very on depth! As someone who is yet to surf a break over 7 feet and in a reef, this was great insight. Would love to see more videos like these
[GD] D4vide39 epic man! Time to send it!
In depth... On a reef
Would love a video explaining what and how the lineup at pipe works. Awesome video Nathan
I stumbled on this video while looking up “how to pop up”. I think I’m ready for Tahiti now.
😂
Had a very near drowning experience years ago surfing my local beach break. I’m a decent surfer and have surfed since I was a kid but nearly lost my life in Head high FL. I love surfing good waves but have a permanent ghost in the back of my mind whenever the waves get bigger now. I was just surfing a average onshore head high day at my local beach break, took a easy wave but hit right as I was getting up the wave hit a ledge or current a jacked up. I just pushed my board out from under me and went over the falls. I got pretty much as hammered as possible for a HH wave and waited for the wave to mellow out but instead of letting go I was just getting pulled down further and further. It finally stopped pulling but I hadn’t hit the bottom and couldn’t push off of the bottom. I started to swim up but could not find the surface, I realized that I must have been stuck in a under tow and tried to relax and let it just flush me up. I counted to 10 in my head and tried to swim up, the same thing happened again. I had a leash on and started trying to climb my leash but I still could not get to the surface. At this point I knew I was in trouble and was running out of air. I relaxed and counted to 10 again and tried to swim and use my leash to get to the surface but I could not make it. The water was murky and could barely tell how deep I was. I was fully panicking at this point out of air and then all of a sudden I felt all of my endorphins flood my body and I was tranquil realizing that I was drowning but I was content and almost just accepting this was it. I snapped out of it just enough to give one last push, took a few huge swims and finally broke the surface. I was 50 yards from the beach and 150 yards from the lineup with no waves anywhere near me. I was coughing up water and totally rattled. I made it in and just sat on the beach for awhile. To this day I have no clue what happened, my ears didn’t hurt so I don’t think I blew my eardrum and I was surfing a beach break so I don’t know how my leash would have gotten wrapped around something. I still wonder if I would have popped right up if I just ripped my leash off or if I would have drowned doing the same thing. I was under for at least a minute, probably longer. Every time the waves get solid and I feel that undertow now I instantly go back to that wipeout. I’m a strong swimmer and have surfed my entire life but I almost lost my life surfing head high slop. Just curious if you’ve had a similar experience or know people that have. I’m planning on moving to Hawaii and getting to surf some real waves while I’m still young enough, it’s going to be a mental battle though when the waves get solid there. I know I can surf and that I was just in a freak situation but it’s always in the back of my mind now. Lol well that’s my near drowning story and my biggest obstacle in wanting to surf big waves
Gnarly, I had a similar experience at my own local beach break when it was seriously pumping. That feeling of tranquility after being under for so long is for real. I've experienced it too and never want to again. Succumbing to the thought that you could die is enough to put the fear of God in anyone that's for sure
Dude the was the most incredibly well put together analysis of their own mistakes I have ever seen. You should be teaching. This same thing applies up here in the Great Lakes when surfing my 17' sea kayak in, straight down, feel the lift, deal with the curl.
All you guys who charge Teaupoo have my upmost respect. The lip of that wave and how it dumps will forever live in my nightmares. Your hard-core dude!🤘
Thanks for sharing your feelings and being honest about feeling scared and anxious, for me that takes a lot of courage. Also enjoyed the detailed breakdown what's happening and why.
Thanks so much for that Nate, we can all definitely take something out of this to hopefully secure our safety and risk factors a bit more in the progression of surfing. You're a legend for examining and explaining your wipeouts to us and how to lower the risks of injury, please do more of these as they are extremely vital for all surfers. Good job, than you so much.
Taking the time to talk about the waves at different big breaks is an excellent idea, doesn't have to even be just about the misses & falls & 2 wave hold downs. Consider talking about the good waves & what you did right & take us through them too. Keep 'em coming Nate....
You're a real role model bru, so self-reflective and fundamentally sound in what you do. Respect!
One of the best vids seen for ages could listen to this all day. So sick to hear what it's like to get worked like that and how you boys handle it explained so eloquently. Awesome stuff 👍👍
Most complete, informative and enriching talk I've ever heard about wipeouts and everything related to them. We want more! :) Cheers from Spain
love this mate.. sooo cool hearing about these things 99% of surfers won't ever feel.. your crazy bud
That is honestly one of the best if not the best break downs and most useful input i have ever heard from someone that is very experienced in those types of heavy situations, and I have over 36 years of surfing experience . Cheers mate this will help many , myself included.
These kind of insights are rare in surfing, it's very hard for non-surfers to image what these situations feel like or what it takes to be there, but it's also really really hard to describe them, Nathan you've done an amazing job of sharing this, keep it up, it makes surfing safer and more accessible. You're a true ambassador of the sport. Kudos.
I was skeptical at first, but this breakdown was fascinating.
Amazing episode!!!!! Great insight for a small wave surfer that wants to understand what big waves/wipeouts feel like.
João Pedro Sousa glad you enjoyed!
Dude - Insightful, articulate, critical, genuine. Never seen a dissection or an analysis quite like this. Can't wait for more
This was one of the most informative videos on surfing I've ever seen. Thank you for making it man. The way you calculate, acknowledge your fear, and keep charging is inspirational.
This is my favorite video of yours in ages. More wave breakdowns and "pro surfer thoughts during waves" would be awesome!
Epic breakdown of a heavy situation. Thanks for explaining, it definitely helps to hear guys reinforce that it's so important to keep composure during chaos
pretzil16 yessir!
Awesome video . Love hearing the psychological side of surfing. Being honest about what you fear is also refreshing. A lot of videos are about show and not what's really going on for someone. Having something like this helps to imagine what it's like to be in that situation which most of us would never be in. mother nature can show just how vulnerable we are but what beauty surrounds us well.
This was one of the most fascinating videos I have ever seen. Surfed most of my life, but never in surf like that. Your story and perspective answered many of my questions today.
Your vlogs are literally part of my week now, from your surfing style, your attitude, and your work outs...keep it rockin bro... ❤️From Ireland.
single fin romance thanks man! Cant wait to make it to ireland
Super good story! There is always something to learn on a session. And to listen to an in-depth explanation on why it didn't work and how to improve is something many of us surfers don't get to hear. Keep killing it Nathan! And great to hear you made it out OK! The content is great!!!
Bernard Waters thanks man! So true! Failing is learning!
Ladies and Gentlemen, this is the Gold Standard of wiping out. Thank you, Nathan!
This is unreal mate , you've got a great way of breaking things down in such detail. Love your work bro , please keep it up!!
Very analytical and introspective. Thats a good skill to have to become better.
thanks for your honesty brotha!! its super refreshing to see some humbleness!
Really appreciate your open discussion of wipeout, which most don’t talk about on UA-cam. !!
I always wanted to get a real breakdown of what happens during a big wave wipeout. Even though I follow surf media for a few years now, this has never been really explained. In depth stuff like this is so interesting to hear! Keep it coming
Sick vid. This is exactly what I needed, technical breakdown to survive big wipeouts
Nathan you've walkthrough throught life and death, giving in sick knowledge to the surfing community!! Thanks king!
I agree on the clarity of your story telling. You have a wonderful ability to share your insights and to do so articulately. I really appreciated this. I also can relate to the rush you feel from emerging from something frightening, although what frightens me is probably at least several orders of magnitude less powerful than what you experience. Thanks.
GREAT job Nate with being transparent and sharing this
Appreciate that end part. I love surfing but I always have that fear and anxiety also. It’s a love hate relationship but mostly love
Awesome video, would love to see more breakdowns of wipeouts or any incredible situation you've ever had!
This type of shared knowledge is the best man. You didn’t say this is what you need to do during a wipeout but rather what you (a professional) did in this scenario. Your years of experience and knowledge are gold man and appreciate you sharing this with all of us. Would love to see more videos like this. Consider me subscribed and a fan 🤙
Brando Celaya thanks man! Glad you liked the video! These are all things i find interesting as well and thought it would be rad to share!
Ill never surf a wave that gnarly, but hearing your breakdown of the wipeout and how you deal with it, even admitting to how you do panic sometimes and you do get anxious on a big swell is super inspiring man. Watching the clips was cool, but hearing you talk about it and analyze it was really great.
Thank you for this mate, it's amazing to hear how your thought process happens in such a scary situation like that. Especially from someone as accomplished in heavy surf as you are.
I'd definitely like to see more vids like this.
Perhaps how to mentally prepare and physically deal with getting caught inside? I got smashed by an outside set a few years ago that seriously rattled me. I still try to push myself but if it's starting to get bigger than what I'm comfortable with I'm just focussed on the horizon and can't relax.
Robbie Griffin it happens to the best of us man! Best way is to get back out there, the fact is you survived and now are better equipped to deal with that situation again! Dont count on it never happening again just be prepared for when it does!
Great breakdown of what went wrong with the mechanics of the drop in.
Over confident, happens to the best of em .
Ocean keeps us all Honest
You got back there and got some good ones.
Violent hold downs send most to the beach !
Or like you said , get that beast mode High
Feel, More Alive than ever !!!
AAAAHHHH
Love it
🤙🏽
Yes, please do more like this and others that are educational and takes us to places we may or may not go. I like when you shared your feelings on being scared yet calculating. It is good to be fearless, but not everyone is. Being scared is to be humble and keeps one from becoming over confident. Respecting the ocean at all times is a key role in either having or not having a good day!
That was awesome Nate! You are by far my fav crazy man out there these days....you, Kai and Billy are just redefining what can be done....I'm an old guy who surfed the country back in the mid 70s, when Gerry, Rory and them were da boys. You guys just kick it up a whole bunch of notches. Still shaking my head at your performance at Shipstern. THAT was sick! Tow-ins be damned! Keep up the shredding and more of this stuff....you're a natural at both.
That was a great story mate. It’s amazing so much is going on in such a short amount of time hey. Glad you made it out ok🤙
u are a living super hero for riding waves like that
Thanks Nathan!!! This is something that is very rarely shared by you guys who charge! This kind of mentoring and sharing from your big wave experiences will help alot of us, who will listen, to aid us from getting seriously injured and panicing in those situations! You guys have developed the ability to stay calm and focused in these situations!!! My problem has always been for me to stay out of panic mode and ride it out safely until the wave lets me go. Thanks again Nathan for sharing critical tactics!!!
I just came back from a surf in my home break in Maldives. It’s been a solid couple of days here and I was getting anxious! But Thank you Nathan! Talking about these things gives us more ideas on what to do on a similar scenario instead of just holding on to our dear life. Thank you again and keep continuing to share these amazing stories!
Great idea Nathan.... loved the play by play slo-mo... you know, it’d be cool to also show your next successful drop and review that success as well ~ you know, recovery of your psyche ~ as JOB says... stay psyched! Thank dude for sharing, good info.
Slowly progressing into heavy, slabbing waves around my home in Aus, I can definitely relate to your descriptive overview of eating shit. Good to draw comparisons and differences from how the pros do it...
So awesome to see some much truth coming out in your videos. Looks like your mom did an amazing job with you guys. Humble, thoughtful, funny and frickin chargers. I'm twice your age and it's really cool to see guys like you and Koa just putting it out there. Keep it up lots of us fans out here pulling for you guys. 🤙🏼
I'm yet to surf over a reef, so, I can only say THANK YOU for putting out this depth breakdown! Off course I'm not gonna go to a huge swell try out the reef but learning from the possible biggest upsets that pro's like you pass gimme confidence to make small steps towards a new level in my surfing. Thank you Nathan!
This is sick dude. Appreciate the breakdown and the straight shooting.
Benjamin Bingham thanks man
Very good topic dude, those tips are precious 🙏🏼👏🏼!
Awesome story; brings back memories of eating it on those heavy days surfing in Hawaii 35 years ago. Watching your video or any Wipeout, brings back that physical and emotional memories that not many people will feel, thanks.
You won cape fear and I’m still trying to get good at spotting waves, you’re light years ahead of most people 🧘♀️👍
The WSL should have him commentate the Pipe Masters this year.
Great call!
Absolutely....Nathan speaks well. Clear and understandable.
or he should be in it lol!
Love this kind of Videos, very interesting thank you!
DeXter 38 glad you enjoyed!
Great content. Heaps to think about out there. Good to know that the pros have the same fears as the average man.
Should do a vid on your boards and pyzels take on what he does for you custom wise. Why it works etc
Best surfing vid I've watched in years simply because it gives the average surfer (like me) a real insight into what it's like to surf huge gnarly waves.
Such a cool insight to see what's going through your head in this situation.
Appreciate this so much hardly any info like this for beginner to intermediate surfers, again thanks. I feel way safer now going out when I don't feel super comfortable.
Grant Smith stoked man!
Really enjoyed this! I always wonder what you guys are dealing with/thinking when you wipeout on a critical wave. Very interesting insights here.
The detail you go into in this video is fantastic, really love the insight. Can't wait for one on navigating pipeline's lineup
This really really good. Best “over the falls” advise I’ve come across. Learning this gives you the confidence to take on the bad that naturally comes with the bigger conditions.
Nathan I thought that was the most interesting surf video I've ever watched. I am an intermediate-intermediate ( on a good day ) 62 year old surfer who just took up surfing 4 years ago. I am pretty fit but not particularly ambitious so far as what I want to do but I hopeto catch some good quality waves, maybe 4-6 faces, now and then. I surf at Cronulla Beach in Sydney Australia - home of the "Occ" - even though I live in the Boondocks out West. PS: love Classical Music also, as in some of your other videos, but Iggy Pop's a favourite as well !! You and your brother take care you are both great blokes. Ride Chris Christensen surfboards by the way so I am not a parochial Aussie. had to mention that - love 'em. Anyway, all the best.
that was awesome thanks
This was a great entry listening to you talk about the wipeout but also at the end talking about fear and calculated risk. I love watching you shred man.
please more like this. pure honesty of what its like to take your beating. more people should know what its like how you think on big days and how it is a whole different world from the average surfer. or how the water is like boiling around you and you just cant get to the surface, scary...nice breakdown...well done
Such awesome pep talk. Relatable to other parts of my life as well. In your future video, could you cover how you read the waves and navigating rip currents at different beaches?
Edward Lee yessir!
Some great tips. Especially the one about trying float splayed out on top of white water to get washed in quicker. The one time I almost drown and loss consciousness was when I did opposite after losing my board and spent all my energy trying to swim deep and back out while the set washed thru. I finally got so exhausted I just close my eyes and by the grace of God got washed in. These are really great tips and make a lot of sense. I love your story time
sunsensational great lesson there my friend! You learned the hard way! Glad you made it out okay! Next time let the waves take you into calmer waters
This breakdown is really useful Nate! I think every surfer has experienced at some point that anxious feeling of trying to breath, and its so nice to hear this kind of input on how to deal with it since is hardly never spoken in surfing videos. Please do more of this! 🤙
Total confidence & competence - thanks for putting words to feelings I experience in my wipeouts - That is how we learn from our wipeouts, and yes very humbling lesson from Mother Nature.
this is sick these tips are amazing
i broke my neck 8 months ago, im good and back at it now, anywho you reall shed some light on certain aspects that never crossed my mind or forgot especially regarding "the worst wipeouts are the ones you try to make to the end" i couldn't have said that better if i tried, great vids- thanks
Ronson Quinto glad you healed up and enjoyed video man!
Appreciate your insight into the details of wiping out on such an extreme wave. Your crazy awareness just before impact only comes with experience and Brah and that's impressive. Mahalo for sharing.
Nat I have to say you give the best insight about what's going on out there. Enjoy your work. Great job !
So good Nathan. I really enjoyed this. When I see you guys wipe-out on waves like this I honestly do think you're fearless or have some super skills I cannot comprehend. It's good to hear all the little details that go into making and not making waves of consequence like Chopes. Loving Story Time!
Shasta Dragon thanks man! Story time if fun glad you guys enjoy it
Thanks! This was great. It's always comforting to hear a charger like your self is human and has that fear and anxiety as well. I see you riding giants and heavy waves and sometimes think your super human. Love this down to earth, honest and helpful style of video. Yew!
Dan O'Malls thanks man! Fear is natural and can be used as fuel! Glad you enjoyed
Really down to earth and honest breakdown. Enjoy watching vlogs with such interesting and real content.
Thanks for this!!! an amazing glimpse into the depths (literally) of what goes on during a big wave wipe out.
Hans Hedemann explaining a wipe out at Waimea is like having an Olympic sized swimming pool poured on your head. You boys can have it, no chance of me ever getting in your way. 🤣 🤙
Dig it .. more story times!!
Thanks for the walk through. My limited experience with wipeouts I just figure I’m at the mercy of some powerful forces and I just ride it out and do my best to get to air. Glad to see you pull through
Nathan, thank you and congratulations for such a humble and heartfelt description of such a wipeout and how to deal with it. As a beginner surfer, this content helps me a lot and I keep coming back to this video from time to time for inspiration and preparation.
In other words, develop the reflexes, instincts, and presence of mind of a fighter pilot and you're good to go!
Great advices and insights, would be awesome to disect from now on all of your wipeouts but also what would you recommend to physically and mentally prep for it. Thanks for sharing!
eztereo glad you enjoyed! Will do more of these for you guys.
IMO This is the best discription and the most informative wipe out vid out there, THANK YOU NATHAN!!! This will help a lot of groms!
Thank you so much for sharing this experience, most of surfers wouldn’t even talk about it, you’re making people more concerned and aware when wipe out happens, no matter what size, keep up good surfing and posting good stuff ! Aloha 🤙