Both Good Printers just Shaky and Unstable. I have modded my SE with Gantry Stabilizers, X and Y Linear RAILS, K1 hotend, and 5015 colling fan. Also took the spool holder off the weak frame. My KE remains unchanged but will be getting Y rails next.
I've had the Ender 3 Pro, currently run the Ender 3 Max, what I'd like to know is times for real world printing of an object on the KE by comparison? I regularly do a print that is 8 hours long, what time could I expect on the KE?
Hi thanks for your comment! Standard settings in Creality Print for a 3 Max is 50mms. Standard settings for a KE is 300mms. This means you would be looking at doing the same print in about 80 minutes on a KE. Its worth noting that there are other factors in play like other settings and the model you are printing so this is more of an estimate, but however you look at it you are cutting your print time significantly.
Awesome m8, thank you. I have a CO2 laser, and am wanting to get into 3d printing. With money quite tight its been a hard battle to decide. Competition has gotten so much closer now than a few years ago@@123-3D-UK
Nice video! You can buy the Nebula Smart Kit upgrade for the SE which will give it Creality's Klipper like the KE, but itmight need a firmware upgrade first to see the SE. Some other youtubers have shown a modified firmware where root access is known -> so it allows more customisation. (Mine's coming in the mail now).
Absolutely, but the KE would be much better suited due to the linear bearing fitted the the axis, and the price difference is less then the Nebula Smart kit. But it's a worthwhile consideration for anyone who already owns the SE.
@@123-3D-UKYep - that's a good point. The SE was on sale when I got it, so it was a 'lose-less money' option in case it became a dead hobby. I had never 3D printed before this. Knowing I could upgrade to Klipper later on was a nice-to-have. Although the 500mm max print speed of the KE is something I won't be able to upgrade to cost effectively. (I'll keep an eye out for used KEs or bambu labs in a few years)
Personally I would say the SE is better for people who want to tinker and a pi unlocks more features and speed the KE is for people who just want to print faster out the box. The screen should be on the SE because when you have klipper you don't need to touch the print kinda backwards.
KE can now be unlocked with creality open sourcing it. Im kinda salty about it actually. A year of tinkering and upgrades to klipperize and improve the speed of my ender 3 within a year....and I had it and better with KE for cheaper
@@rdtiel All part of the fun with 3D printing, my first ever printer was the humble Ender!! And Creality had to allow root access for the O/S as its Klipper based, and fully open sourced 😉
@@123-3D-UK agreed and then if you want to push it abit further the option is there, first mod on both is 5015 blower might not make it quieter but a more bearable noise.
@@rdtiel the version of klipper on the ke is old and only partially open source, and customising the ke or k1 is full of gotchas cos creality has not provided source for things like the prtouch load cell etc. an ender 3 V2 and earlier with klipper is full vanilla klipper and I actually prefer my ender 3 V1 over my k1, k1 and I assume ke is pretty annoying, my k1 is fantastic for prototyping cos it prints fast but my ender 3 V1 is easier to tweak. I have an se I am about to klipperise with a rpi, already using octoprint.
Both good printers for a beginner. However we would always recommend buying from a retailer as the machine will come with some kind of warranty and you will have some level of customer support.
1:39 those are linear rods, not rails. I hear that these are kind of springy. (on the SE, NOT in general) edit: I also hear that the frame is too weak on the KE to support the speeds it runs at creating ugly artifacts on some prints.
You are correct, both models have linear rods on the print bed, and the KE model is fitted with a linear rail on the X axis. Regarding the print speed for the KE I would recommend printing at 250mms to get the best results from the machine. My testing has shown this to best the best range for best results 👍
I have the KE. I find at high speeds the filament spool makes the printer top heavy and rocks the printer around. I've printed a spool holder to sit on the table and it's a bit shocking how much it improved print quality. I'm really wondering why they don't recommend it anywhere?
I saw another youtuber show that the linear rods are loose and that the bed will rise and fall as it moves making prints near the front look terrible. @@scruffles87
I bought the Ender 3 v3 SE 4 months ago and the no bed leveling is its downfall. the bed came warped and was never able to print normally. I'm trying to return it for another or an upgrade to the KE for wasting my time with a non functional printer.
Our new video testing the auto bed levelling to the extreme on the new Ender 3 V3 series machines is worth a watch. It may be quite eye-opening, [spoiler alert] as it can compensate for far more than many people expect! ua-cam.com/video/jHY0CWm2Q0s/v-deo.html
The se can use Cura slicer. U.s.b. c. And you can print stricht from your p.c. And it go.s like crazy. Looks at more videos from you tube. It go.s fast.
Upgrades will always be a thing someone will want to do or die in the attempt...........upgrades exist only in the extent of the imagination.......anything is possible if you imagine there is a problem you can't understand.
I’ve just boxed up and sent back my third SE. All worked flawlessly out of the box then about 20-30 prints later they just stop working. The Auto Level and z-offset values seem to be wrong as the nozzle is always to high from the bed. Yes you can bring the nozzle down manually but that defeats the purpose of automatic levelling It is also very very fussy about the filament you use. Long story short like many others I’ve bought a Bambu. Creality build quality is awful.
Funny my $1100 Bambu died from an HMS 500.300.2.1 error after 2 months (Bambu told me sorry we dont know why, then ghosted me) but my little $179 Ender 3 SE is just chugging along. Print after print no issues. Even with tpu and silk.....Bambu are made from cheap junky parts
@@Racio00 I was just stating facts. Its not my "point" its facts about how Bambu printers are and what factually happened to me and 100's of others. The machines are made of low grade parts.....thats not opinion, its fact
Lol, yeah the "automatic" bed leveling is a farce on these Enders. Especially if you printer came with some high and low spots on the bed. No joke, My Ender 3 pro prints slower but overall does a better job. But this is just my experience.
@@123-3D-UK YT search is your friend, many people are experiencing the same issue. Hopefully Creality addresses this issue. Also, Creality has issued a video on their website showing the manual leveling procedure. My word of advice is, don't always believe the hype. All and all, the print is priced so great and has so many features, you can't go wrong if your just getting into 3D printing.
Le reddit is le full of people with issues on their KE Out of 10 people that bought it,6 have confirmed issues ranging from self destroying hotends,magic x gantry of +2 in every direction,auto z offset "calibration" with random results that are NEVER right Paying 280-350 for that heap of broken dreams is an insult
@@questionsfrog1918 its generally a pile of poop, I will say this though, I did get 1 nice organic print from it. The test print provided by Creality lol
Both Good Printers just Shaky and Unstable. I have modded my SE with Gantry Stabilizers, X and Y Linear RAILS, K1 hotend, and 5015 colling fan. Also took the spool holder off the weak frame. My KE remains unchanged but will be getting Y rails next.
The SE has a USB C port and it can be used to connect to a PC so you can send files directly to the SE.
Great video! I will be getting my new core xz ender 3 v3 today!
I will be comparing that to a belted z ender 3!
I've had the Ender 3 Pro, currently run the Ender 3 Max, what I'd like to know is times for real world printing of an object on the KE by comparison? I regularly do a print that is 8 hours long, what time could I expect on the KE?
Hi thanks for your comment! Standard settings in Creality Print for a 3 Max is 50mms. Standard settings for a KE is 300mms. This means you would be looking at doing the same print in about 80 minutes on a KE. Its worth noting that there are other factors in play like other settings and the model you are printing so this is more of an estimate, but however you look at it you are cutting your print time significantly.
great video.... thanks
Super great and clear comparison!
How about the new "V3"? compared as well? Awesome vid by the way
We will release another video on the Ender 3 V3 as soon as we have them in stock, as always it will be an honest review 👍
Awesome m8, thank you. I have a CO2 laser, and am wanting to get into 3d printing. With money quite tight its been a hard battle to decide. Competition has gotten so much closer now than a few years ago@@123-3D-UK
Nice video! You can buy the Nebula Smart Kit upgrade for the SE which will give it Creality's Klipper like the KE, but itmight need a firmware upgrade first to see the SE. Some other youtubers have shown a modified firmware where root access is known -> so it allows more customisation.
(Mine's coming in the mail now).
Absolutely, but the KE would be much better suited due to the linear bearing fitted the the axis, and the price difference is less then the Nebula Smart kit. But it's a worthwhile consideration for anyone who already owns the SE.
@@123-3D-UKYep - that's a good point.
The SE was on sale when I got it, so it was a 'lose-less money' option in case it became a dead hobby. I had never 3D printed before this.
Knowing I could upgrade to Klipper later on was a nice-to-have.
Although the 500mm max print speed of the KE is something I won't be able to upgrade to cost effectively.
(I'll keep an eye out for used KEs or bambu labs in a few years)
Personally I would say the SE is better for people who want to tinker and a pi unlocks more features and speed the KE is for people who just want to print faster out the box. The screen should be on the SE because when you have klipper you don't need to touch the print kinda backwards.
I feel the SE is a very good starter machine for anyone wanting to try 3D printng, its easy to set up and very affordable!
KE can now be unlocked with creality open sourcing it.
Im kinda salty about it actually. A year of tinkering and upgrades to klipperize and improve the speed of my ender 3 within a year....and I had it and better with KE for cheaper
@@rdtiel All part of the fun with 3D printing, my first ever printer was the humble Ender!!
And Creality had to allow root access for the O/S as its Klipper based, and fully open sourced 😉
@@123-3D-UK agreed and then if you want to push it abit further the option is there, first mod on both is 5015 blower might not make it quieter but a more bearable noise.
@@rdtiel the version of klipper on the ke is old and only partially open source, and customising the ke or k1 is full of gotchas cos creality has not provided source for things like the prtouch load cell etc. an ender 3 V2 and earlier with klipper is full vanilla klipper and I actually prefer my ender 3 V1 over my k1, k1 and I assume ke is pretty annoying, my k1 is fantastic for prototyping cos it prints fast but my ender 3 V1 is easier to tweak. I have an se I am about to klipperise with a rpi, already using octoprint.
I found a new unoped KE on ebay for 30% less than a new SE. I am a beginner, is this a good deal?
Both good printers for a beginner. However we would always recommend buying from a retailer as the machine will come with some kind of warranty and you will have some level of customer support.
@@123-3D-UK Thanks. Is it that common for the printer to break?
Ender 3 v3 se supports carbon filaments?
1:39 those are linear rods, not rails. I hear that these are kind of springy. (on the SE, NOT in general) edit: I also hear that the frame is too weak on the KE to support the speeds it runs at creating ugly artifacts on some prints.
You are correct, both models have linear rods on the print bed, and the KE model is fitted with a linear rail on the X axis. Regarding the print speed for the KE I would recommend printing at 250mms to get the best results from the machine. My testing has shown this to best the best range for best results 👍
I have the KE. I find at high speeds the filament spool makes the printer top heavy and rocks the printer around. I've printed a spool holder to sit on the table and it's a bit shocking how much it improved print quality. I'm really wondering why they don't recommend it anywhere?
I saw another youtuber show that the linear rods are loose and that the bed will rise and fall as it moves making prints near the front look terrible. @@scruffles87
I bought the Ender 3 v3 SE 4 months ago and the no bed leveling is its downfall. the bed came warped and was never able to print normally. I'm trying to return it for another or an upgrade to the KE for wasting my time with a non functional printer.
Our new video testing the auto bed levelling to the extreme on the new Ender 3 V3 series machines is worth a watch. It may be quite eye-opening, [spoiler alert] as it can compensate for far more than many people expect! ua-cam.com/video/jHY0CWm2Q0s/v-deo.html
You will like the Ender 3 v3 KE then,its auto-zoffset is never right,the x gantry is croocked and you can't level the bed. Great pile o garbage
@@questionsfrog1918 ua-cam.com/video/jHY0CWm2Q0s/v-deo.htmlsi=c2ZEz8-iGWBUwyjp
Thanks good video!,
You are a legend
The se can use Cura slicer.
U.s.b. c.
And you can print stricht from your p.c.
And it go.s like crazy.
Looks at more videos from you tube.
It go.s fast.
Upgrades will always be a thing someone will want to do or die in the attempt...........upgrades exist only in the extent of the imagination.......anything is possible if you imagine there is a problem you can't understand.
nice video dear friend thank you
Help me level my SE Bed. :D
3:37 video starts.
I had to watch up to this point to understand the difference
Underrated
I’ve just boxed up and sent back my third SE. All worked flawlessly out of the box then about 20-30 prints later they just stop working. The Auto Level and z-offset values seem to be wrong as the nozzle is always to high from the bed. Yes you can bring the nozzle down manually but that defeats the purpose of automatic levelling It is also very very fussy about the filament you use. Long story short like many others I’ve bought a Bambu. Creality build quality is awful.
Funny my $1100 Bambu died from an HMS 500.300.2.1 error after 2 months (Bambu told me sorry we dont know why, then ghosted me) but my little $179 Ender 3 SE is just chugging along. Print after print no issues. Even with tpu and silk.....Bambu are made from cheap junky parts
@@anthonylong5870telling your point doesn’t make you right
@@Racio00 I was just stating facts. Its not my "point" its facts about how Bambu printers are and what factually happened to me and 100's of others. The machines are made of low grade parts.....thats not opinion, its fact
@@anthonylong5870 what’s all the filaments the Ender 3 v3 se can print out of the box?
@@Stinky0368 Anything not toxic and needing an enclosure like ASA, ABS , PEEK......PLA , PLA+,TPU, PETG and all the varients of those
Interesting video but your transitions kill my ear drums. jesus.
Ok
potatoe
Lol, yeah the "automatic" bed leveling is a farce on these Enders. Especially if you printer came with some high and low spots on the bed. No joke, My Ender 3 pro prints slower but overall does a better job. But this is just my experience.
We have found this to work very well on these models, beginners feedback has been nothing but positive!
@@123-3D-UK YT search is your friend, many people are experiencing the same issue. Hopefully Creality addresses this issue. Also, Creality has issued a video on their website showing the manual leveling procedure. My word of advice is, don't always believe the hype. All and all, the print is priced so great and has so many features, you can't go wrong if your just getting into 3D printing.
Le reddit is le full of people with issues on their KE
Out of 10 people that bought it,6 have confirmed issues ranging from self destroying hotends,magic x gantry of +2 in every direction,auto z offset "calibration" with random results that are NEVER right
Paying 280-350 for that heap of broken dreams is an insult
@@questionsfrog1918 its generally a pile of poop, I will say this though, I did get 1 nice organic print from it. The test print provided by Creality lol