My Secret To No More 3D Printed Layer Lines
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- Опубліковано 10 тра 2024
- 3D Printing Fuzzy Skin With Bambu Lab A1!
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Welcome to the world of innovative 3D printing techniques! In this tutorial, I'll show you how to elevate your 3D printed parts using a unique slicing method called "fuzz." Say goodbye to visible layer lines and hello to professional-looking products with minimal post-processing. Join me as I share my journey, failures, and ultimate success in achieving flawless prints.
00:00 - Introduction to the Fuzz Technique: Learn how to transform ordinary 3D printed parts into extraordinary creations with a simple slicing trick.
00:20- Exploring Traditional Post-Processing Methods: Discover the limitations and inefficiencies of sanding, priming, and painting for achieving smooth surfaces.
02:12 - The Quest for Better Manufacturing Solutions: Dive into the challenges faced with injection molding and resin 3D printing, and the search for a cost-effective alternative.
05:10 - Introducing Fuzz Skin: Uncover the revolutionary slicer feature offered by Bambu Studio, designed to add a textured finish to 3D printed parts.
05:40 - Understanding Fuzz Skin Variables: Learn how to optimize fuzz thickness and distance point settings for desired results.
06:30 - Experimenting with Fuzz Combinations: Gain insights from a comprehensive experiment to determine the ideal fuzz parameters.
7:14 - Implementing Fuzz Skin in Bambu Studio: Step-by-step guide on applying fuzz skin to your 3D models for flawless prints.
07:38 - Witness the Transformation: See the remarkable difference between standard and fuzz-enhanced parts, showcasing improved aesthetics and durability.
8:35 - Considerations Before Implementation: Understand the impact of increased print time and potential adjustments to design tolerances when incorporating fuzz skin.
09:14 - Embracing Failure on the Path to Success: Emphasizing the importance of perseverance and resilience in overcoming challenges and achieving innovation.
09:45 - Wake Hydro Alarm Clock: Visit wakehydro.com to experience the ultimate morning wake-up solution with our innovative alarm clocks.
Unlock the full potential of your 3D printing projects with the fuzz technique. Get ready to unleash your creativity and build something truly extraordinary! Don't forget to like, share, and subscribe for more cutting-edge tips and tutorials. Let's make the world of 3D printing even more amazing together!
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1. Efficient 3D printing techniques
2. Streamlining 3D printing post-processing
3. Minimize post-printing work
4. Eliminate 3D printing finishing steps
5. Simplified 3D printing workflow
6. Reducing post-processing time
7. Optimizing 3D printing for production
8. Enhancing customer-ready 3D prints
9. Effortless finishing for 3D printed parts
10. Seamless post-printing solutions
11. Smoother surface finishes for 3D prints
12. Automating post-processing in 3D printing
13. Creating polished 3D printed products
14. Cutting-edge slicing techniques for flawless prints
15. Improving print quality with minimal effort
16. Accelerating 3D printing production
17. Advanced slicer features for professional results
18. Efficient post-printing strategies
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20. Revolutionizing 3D printing finishing processes
21. 3D Printing Fuzzy Skin With Bambu Lab A1
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Fuzzy skin is the one-for-all recipe to take away the 3d-printed look.
We use it on all our products from the beginning - but: It comes at the cost of increased print-time! Always a good idea to apply it only to visible surfaces by using modifier blocks
Glad I’m not the only one doing it!
There is also feature "variable layer height" which also has nice results, especially for more organic prints.
No way! I’ve never heard of variable layer height! I’ll have to look into it! Thank you for sharing :)
can also save time! no need to print vertical walls at 0.12mm height, but can still get that detail in the curved parts
@@amil89 I didn’t even think about that! That’s an excellent point! Thank you!
Shame that (at least in OrcaSlicer) you can't use variable layer height with tree supports.
@@jakemgrim It is the weird stack of lines up along the top in the "prepare" stage. It is right the left of the "move object" button.
The fuzzy skin is not a "Bambu Studio" feature. It's originally a Cura feature that got ported over to Prusaslicer (which is the basis for Bambu Studio) long ago..
While still under "Experimental"
Good to know! Thanks for sharing!!
@@R34l1ty4U allegedly…
@@jakemgrim what I meant its under the "Experimental" group of settings (you can search for it). I didnt even remember about it until your video. ;)
It's not even that. It's basically a more simplified Displacement modifier with less options that you normally get with any 3d modeling software.
I've been using fuzzy on my prints for the last few weeks and I do like the results. I make alot of items with TPU and the the flexibility and fuzzy makes a great combo really gives my prototypes a next level feel. Great video thanks for sharing your journey!
I haven't tried TPU and Fuzz yet but it sounds cool! What kind of stuff are you printing? If you want to share pictures of the prints, you can post them in our Discord linked in the description!
Same here, I tried fuzzy on the Ender-3 v2 a couple months ago for a TPU button and it came out great both in look and feel. So I experimented a bit on PLA. My parameters of choice are 0.1, 0.1. It just gives it a silky roughness, like finished wood.
Long story short: try to check the "enable fuzzy skin" box if you still haven't.played with it.
Did you not like my story?
@@jakemgrimIt was nice, but some people want the info only.
@@jakemgrim No, and it's not a secret
@@JacobHepworth what should I change to make it better?
@@jakemgrimYou could maybe start by covering fresh topics. I was hesitant to watch but was hoping for info I had never seen. It felt like I was wasting my time rehashing something I see in my feed a lot lately.
Fwiw, you're doing a great job on lighting, audio and all around production value.
you can make only 20min extra by adding a modifier to remove the fuzzy skin on the inside, can I have one now that I saved you 1000 hours?
Wouldn’t that be the same as contour? Or would the modifier work differently?
@@jakemgrim Using the modifier, it is possible to apply a fuzzy skin only on the outer contour of the part, while using the 'contour' option makes it fuzzy even on the inside.
@@ggbartosz I see! I haven’t used the modifier yet. That makes a lot of sense! Thank you!
modifier is an added shape that encompasses a different setting (right click)@@jakemgrim
The modifier feature is like using a support blocker. It allows you to create a "zone" with custom settings. In your case I would recommend creating an obj or stl that is the exact same OD as you clock but solid, and just reduce the x and y by .1-.5mm and Raise by .1-.5mm that way you can import it with your model and it's already dimensioned properly.
Bruh… I’ve used this setting before as a simple test, but it never thought about using it to get rid of the layer lines… valuable insight you gave me, thank you!
I've been using fuzzy skin for a couple years now, and I think other slicers also have the setting too. as for tolerances, you can use modifier blocks to either enforce, or block fuzzy skin anywhere on your model. I use this for the phone mounts I designed and produce for my car. Fuzzy skin is an awesome feature, and even though I already knew about it, knew how to use it, and use it on a regular basis, I continued watching your video because of how well you made your video. It is structured very well, and easy to understand for even the most novice of printers, which I appreciate, and wanted to say GREAT JOB!
Thank you SO SO much! You put the biggest smile on my face :) I tried to make this video entertaining and informative for beginners. A bunch of expert level 3D printing people posted negative comments, but that’s okay thanks to people like you being kind and positive. If you haven’t already, you should consider joining our discord (link in the description) of other makers. I’ll be getting on there this afternoon to catch up on the conversation. Now I’m going to go for a run and exercise :) See ya around!!
.3mm on both is what I found what looked best to me as well when I was testing things too last week. I've got a K1 Max and Neptune 4+ over the last few months, and have really been enjoying designing and creating things for people. It is really cool what we can do with 3D printing now a days.
That’s cool we both came up with 0.3! I’d love to see the projects your working on if you want to post pictures in our discord (linked in the description)!
Love the video. I think the best part of 3D printing is the design and problem solving! Seeing an idea sitting on my table or workbench always blows me away. I don't care if it's a small custom poker chip or a large set of inserts for my board games. The fact that after a few hours or days something that didn't exist before I started does now is so cool!
And the ironing out kinks until it's just right is awesome! Love the shared knowledge.
Goodluck in all you do!
Thank you so much! I’m glad you enjoyed the video! Feel free to share pictures or videos of your projects in our discord linked in the description! It’s so cool to turn ideas into real life things! I hope to see you around with future videos!
Really cool that you didnt give up on it! You can printed this on resin printer, warping can be resolve with better supports and other orientation, britelness can be solved by using different resin (like abs from elegoo, tough AnyCubic or some mix) or settings (lesser curing time). But i dont think resin print wouldnt work for commercial product, cuz if its undercured it could be toxic, if overcured it would be too brittle, pref you need to paint then so no sunlight would desroy youre product. BTW love texture on fineshed clock!
Thank you so much for taking the time to provide feedback! I would like to try abs resin some time! I’m currently trying to print a statue of Walt Disney in resin to display in my lab. I hope you enjoyed the video and hope to see you again next week :) P.S. Let me know if you build anything awesome this week!
@@jakemgrim What they said: warping/breaking off the supports is all about orientation. You don't want wide, flat areas parallel to the bed; it will stick HARD and tend to break off the supports--or, if you're using a magnetic print bed (which makes life so much easier), it can pull your bed enough to shift it off its magnet. You want the smallest cross section printing at time--so, I'd turn your clock body about 45 degrees, so no one side is parallel to the bed.
Play with it a bit and you'll get a feel for the ideal angle.
@@gpweaver that makes sense now! I always wondered why resin prints were printed in strange angles. Now I know! I’ll give it a shot! Hope to see you around for future videos because I love feedback like yours :)
Congrats for having the drive and pacience to go forward no mather the obtacles! For those who did not quite get it this video was made for people who mean bussiness, that are interested on the core of things, apriciate when someone openes their eyes and tells them they have been trying the wrong method to achieve their goal.
Thank you my friend! I tried to blend education, entertainment, and inspiration all into one video. I hope you stick around for future videos :)
on the part of fuzzy skin and the tolerances. you can add a modifier cube or what it fit and just float it only on the outside areas were you want fuzzy skin. This way in your model only the outside is with a fuzzy skin and the inside is normal which now saves time and the tolerances will stay.
I wish I would have thought of that! Thank you so much! Hope to see you around friend!
@@jakemgrimmaybe do a followup video on that. Im new in FDM Printing - this would be a nice quick tutorial Video, since i dont know what he means :D
Also, you can do the inverse and add a modifier object in the areas where you do NOT want fuzzy skin and save yourself that post processing as well.
@@Oliver_Things wow! That might be even easier! Thank you!! I hope you stick around for future videos because you have some great advice!
@@jakemgrim lots of trial and error! Keep up the good work!
No failure, no improvement, Thank you for sharing
I heard about it but never tried it, now I will. 😊 Thank you so much. 👏🏻
It’s pretty cool! I hope it goes well for you :) I’d love to see what you make so feel free to share your results in our discord (linked in the description)! I hope to see you around!
resin warping and brittleness is a direct correlation to the resin you are using.
Crap! Really? Which resins do you recommend I use?
@@jakemgrim If you plan to cast the materials they make casting resins. I would think you would want to go that route but Ive never used those. I have a Phrozen Mini 8ks and I use the Phrozen Aqua 8K 3D Printing Resin. And get no warping or anything once I have it dialed in.
I'm just about to buy a 3d printer and have been thinking long and hard how it solve the layer line issue, since that's something that will bug me. Glad this video popped up and thanks for sharing!
There’s a lot of great printers out there! My favorite being Creality and Bambu Lab . It’s a fun adventure once you get started! Check out our Discord (liked in the video description) if you have any questions or want to share your projects once you get started! Hope to see you around!
Thanks for the reply. Not going to change filaments any time soon. Bambu had a sale this weeked for 32% off and free shipping so I bought 4 more rolls of PLA. The printer is in my office inside my house so the med temp is probably 70 degrees and it is on a very stable surface. It is self-calibrating machine (P1S) and the temps are 219/220 c and 55/55c. Just a hobby for me and not a business so learning as I go and when I have time. Lots to learn! Good luck with your business.
Again, thanks for your video,
Tony
I for one appreciated the story. I understand some people just wanted the single phrase “use fuzzy skin” but if you are a maker, these are all relevant steps/ideas you would try. Probably saved a lot of people a lot of time. Definitely was helpful for me!
When you think the video is “hey, do you remember this feature from a few years ago?” but you get “come along to my journey of printing a box” :D
It’s like a box of chocolates, you never know what you’re gonna get ;) hope you stick around for future videos, friend!
Thanks for sharing this information - as a play-around-with-printers guy who also happens to be an engineer who works in manufacturing full-time, one thing I'll say is: you went to the wrong shops to quote your injection molded parts. The Xometrys and ProtoLabs of the world are fast and easy, and if they're not cheap enough for you there's other options out there.
I’ll check those out! Thank you for the advice!
ANy other names you can share? I received the same quote he did for a similar part from Fictiv.
Free medical advice: always wear a P100 mask while sanding and spray painting (ideally with VOC protection with the latter).
You are SO right! My buddy has been telling me that for a while and I need to do it! Any particular one you recommend?
One of the most helpful videos I have seen in a while, the fact that my A1 is my main 3d printer and I have been looking to get this effect on some of my prints is amazing as I randomly came across this video. Any additional tips you have for bambu slicer in video format would be amazing, your delivery is bang on and easy to understand !!
Thank you so much for your positive comment! It made me smile! I try to get better with each video I post. I need to dig around in Bambu Studio before I make another 3D printing video (about a month or so). My goal is one video like this per week, so I hope you stick around for future videos! The next few will be about microcontrollers, prototyping, and creating a product you can sell to customers. But have no fear, there will definitely be more 3D printing videos to come!
Also, I posted a video a few weeks ago on how to print TPU with the A1
Also also, if you want to share pictures and videos of your projects, I hope you consider joining our Discord community! I love seeing what other people make! The link is in the description :)
Ignore the comments saying you took too long to get to the point. Clearly they have time to post a comment, which makes their point invalid. They also have no idea what goes into making a video, including the joy of making a video with a story.
Great story telling, info and production! Keep it up 🤘🏻
Thank you so much! Your invalid point comment made me LOL. Thank you for your feedback, you are 100% correct. Th process fills me with joy
writing a comment takes like 10 seconds...
Great video! It surely contributes not only to avoid extra costs and effort to obtain a final product but also avoid a lot of polution with sanded microplastics and other harmful chemicals!
This is an excellent video.
I'm learning 3D printing for car parts, and wanted to create dash parts that fit in without that "3D Printed" look.
You addressed the issue perfectly and concisely. There's clearly a lot of data and time gone into this process - the editing is first rate.
Thank you for this video, for taking the time and care.
Wow, thank you. I am buying my first 3d printer ever (Bambu Lab X1C) in about 2 weeks. This will be a great help.
hey jake, just found your channel through this video and i love what you’re all about. the information was given in a really easily digestible anger and the production of the video was great! definitely gonna subscribe
Thank you so much! I just got done replying to a comment telling me everything I did wrong. Your comment made me smile :) Feel free to join our discord channel to share projects and ideas with other makers! I look forward to seeing you around new friend!
I actually bought a 3d printed part that used this and it's really interesting to see how and why
It all comes full circle my friend :)
8 minutes to say "fuzz skin". smh
Best 8 minutes of your life :D
Man stop hating get something better to do you loser
biggest lie@@jakemgrim
It was the first thing in the first 8 seconds?
Personally I like to hear what other options the person has tried and why they chose this method, it gives me much more information to base my opinions on. Great video.
Resin printing is not toxic, how ever Burning PLA is. On the other hand mold making can be a valuable technique for creating final products from resin-printed prototypes. It allows for efficient reproduction of parts with consistent quality. Additionally, understanding the relative toxicity of different materials is important for safety considerations in various fabrication processes. Mold making could definitely be an interesting avenue to explore for those interested in turning their resin-printed creations into marketable products.
Yooo Ik this guy he keeps hanging around my school we don’t know how he go there tho
I’ve may have taught you a thing or two
THANK YOU for this tip... It is a real viable solution to a part not looking like a cheap 3D print
Thank you! I’m glad you liked it!
Cura and Prusa Slicer (which bambu studio is built on) also have fuzzy skin. I'm glad to see more people using it and im glad you made a video about it (and the product journey), it has been available for years and barely seems to be mentioned.
That’s what people been telling me that it’s been around for a while. I think it does need more attention because I never heard about it until recently. It’s a really helpful tool if you put it in the right scenario!
The fuzzy skin doesn't look too good, unless an object calls for it, it just looks cheap. I prefer the layer lines with light sanding.
Use modifier with fuzzy skin turned off so you dont need to sand down the fuzzy skin from where you dont want it ( 9:04 ). You can also do what Yagoa said in other comment and make fuzzy skin as a modifier, eg. cube, and overlap that with the places where you want the fuzzy skin to appear.
That’s awesome! Thank you so much for sharing that! I’ll give it a try!
how can be done??😮
@@FrankP83 hopefully I can figure it out!
@jakemgrim waiting for your tutorial Jake!However this night I've experienced the fuzzy with your 0.3 0.3 setting and the result is pretty nice!Thanks!
@@FrankP83 awesome! I would love to see pictures of the part you made if you’d like to share them in our discord! I put the link in the video description
Why are you heating the acetone for abs? Its called vapor smoothing for a reason. Layer of acetone, parts elevated above it in an air tight container for up to 20 mins depending on size of part. Easy.
And resin printing isnt faster because of less moving parts, its because an entire layer is printing at a time, and you can fill the build plate with no additional time, only height affects it. And its layer lines are normally about 0.05mm, you make it sound completely different. Not to mention im gunna go out on a whim and say you didnt chemically clean and uv harden after printing your resin... it shoulnd tbe that brittle
Jake, use mesh cubes to interrupt the fuzzy skin features for parts that need the tolerancing, it's a little tedious, but 30 minutes of that saves you hours in post processing. Especially because fuzzy skin in randomized, and your average variance will vary per part.
Thank you Daniel! I never even considered that! That’s going to save a bunch of time! I hope you stick around for future videos to provide similar feedback to help me improve! You are awesome my friend :)
With regards to having to sand sections of your part for tolerances, you can 'paint' a section of your model in bambu studio and tell it not to generate fuzzy skin for this section. Great video!
Consider printing your cases at a 45 deg slant from vertical, using a custom CAD modeled support gantry with tiny sprues and turning off slicer created supports.
First, you could get fuzzy skin on what would be the top of your housing. I use this method for custom electronics enclosures. Second, the diagonal orientation can a lot of strength to prints in a way that can't be gotten with injection molded parts, due to how molds have to be designed to release. Third, the fuzz skin turns out even better, as the layer line orientation is not laying on any of the the cardinal axes.
Thanks for the fuzz combo testing. Do you have close up shots of each combo online somewhere, like Flickr?
I suppose it is just easier and more useful to print a bunch of my own samples plates.
A fast way to make things smooth, or faster then sanding and painting a part 20 times, is just to use a soldering iron with a flat or round tip. something you would have to DIY yourself. Using that, you can melt the surface of the print smooth. And it's faster than you might think. You can polish it after to help make it look real nice. But you must have a steady hand, or you can damage the surface details, faster than just smoothing things out. And you may need to try it a few times on a test part, to get it right. After that, you're good to go, print after print.
That’s a cool idea! Thank you for the advice! I hope to see you around after future video with more good feedback!
@@jakemgrimI can't take credit for this idea. I seen it in a few videos by others, years ago. Sadly, few other 3D printer users are sharing this idea with each-other.
ua-cam.com/video/JgDaVFBciII/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/ngsGA0VzBXA/v-deo.html
But, of late, if you do a search for "using a soldering iron to smooth plastic" in a UA-cam search, you will get a lot of DIY ideas for fixing all kinds of plastic things, that seem to be quite fantastic. And would also work well on 3D prints.
Have fun with that. ^.^
Very well made video and the fuzz looks great! For those that are looking to hide layer lines (from Title of the video) you may want to revisit the resin 3D printing. There are many resins out there that have varying degrees of strengths and some eliminate warping. Another idea would be to create a silicone mold from a sanded part if you wanted a non-fuzzy surface.
Thank you! I really want to give resin 3D printing another shot. Have you ever made a silicone mold? I’ve also been wanting to give it a try!
@@jakemgrim I have not, but watch other UA-camrs that do. The CrafsMan SteadyCraftin is a great resource and he mentions others in the field.
Little precision about tolerences, where pieces connect you can actually simply tell the slicer to print this part without any fuzz, for a bezel for example or a ridge. so you don't have to change your tolerences :)
Awesome Video appreciate your time with the different fuzzy skin settings. I wanted to say that you can eliminate the fuzzy skin from areas that need to fit together with primitive object as a modifier for those areas.
Good to know! Thank you for taking the time provide feedback! Hope to see you around in future videos :)
Fuzz works and your results are good, though the slowdown is quite a lot. When we tested it, controlling where it gets applied was an issue because it leaked through a USB socket hole and wrapped around on the inside, causing issues for some internal parts of the design. A way to paint on where it's applied or a smarter algorithm to limit it to the outside would be good. Something else we tried is Bambu sparkle filament, and that reduced the appearance of layer lines nicely along with a well tuned Bambu producing great surfaces anyway. Not to everyone's taste, but we had good results with boxes we've been making. I also printed something at either 0.12 or 0.08 which worked well. Longer to print, but then so is fuzzy, so if you're open to accepting longer print times, that's another approach.
I'm going to have to try that! Thank you for your feedback! Some people have commented about using a modifier such as the same STL file but increased by 0.2x and moved up slightly to apply the fuzz. I have not tried it yet though. Also, I'd love to see your finished results if you would like to share them in our Discord linked in the description! Hope to see you around friend!
Omg THANK YOU I was searching like hell for a solution.
Fuzzy skin has been available in Cura for several years now......this is not a new thing or singular to Bambu labs
That’s great! I’m going to try it on my Creality CR-10 next!
You can use modifiers to make certain areas fuzzy but keep those interlocking areas clean.
Fuzzy skin is a feature that Bambu Studio inherited from Prusa Slicer. Most likely they also got if from someone/somewhere else 😉 It's hard to discover who originally made this.
But that does not matter to me. I never looked at this feature or knew how to use it so kudos to you for learning me somet hing new 👍
Thank you my friend! I want to try it with my Creality CR-10 next! That printer is a tank! BTW I like your profile pic ;) Hope to see you around!
Been printing since 2020 and unfortunately this didn’t help at all, but it was interesting that you touched upon resin vs FDM as a solution. You have a Bamboo labs printer and are getting okie prints because of your profile, enable ironing and do some research on printer profiles and I assure you that you’ll get better quality prints
Sorry friend! Thanks for taking the time to give some feedback! Hope to see you around in the next video!
Bro you got hammed on those quotes for molds
There was a fork of Prusa where someone was trying to add the tessellation ability (think displacement/normal maps) to the slicer so you could do your own 3d texturing to the model without external tools like Blender, but I don't think it ever made it past a prototype phase.
It would be great if this were revived, to allow textures like woodgrain, leather, etc.
Hi man, resin 3D printing can do it but you need the right resin… for the right job. They even use it to make moulds for small scale batches of injection moulding.
Thank you for the info! What resin do you recommend I use?
Prusaslicer has had this for years also. 👌 I used it for car parcel shelf brackets in grey petg, look exactly the same as the car interior texture
What settings did you use? 0.3/0.3 ?
@@jakemgrim I can't even remember tbh, 0.1protrude, with a 0.1 layer line I think 100% infill petg. It's the only time I've used it. The grey petg happened to be an exact match to the cars interior colour, to the eye at least.
@@gardian1701 good to know! I might have to try something similar with my car. Thank you for your feedback! Hope to see you around in future videos!
i just realised this myself recently witha a carbonfibre textured part i was printing. long story short resin printer died so had to use my filament printer, and was very surprised witht the result.
Reason i mention it is i know why you had issues applying textutre to the file, its as simple as not having a dense enough mesh. If you think of the mesh/faces as pixels, the more pixles you use the higher resolution the part. I dont know now you do it in blender though, as i use c4d
Oh my goodness! Your feedback makes perfect sense to me! And never even considered that! Now I want to try it again. Thank you so much! I hope to see you around the comments of future videos :)
thank you for your sharing, definitely try this when my printer arrives
Matte filament, especially if it has a subtle texture like Protopasta's fiber filled PLA, is great for hiding layer lines. It's not perfect, but it does have a huge visual impact. And if it's not quite enough, you can still use a fuzzy skin, and you can scale it back substantially to improve print speed and quality. A layer of matte varnish or clearcoat also helps.
Like Minwax Urethane thick type? Will it bite directly on ABS with no issue? Can it be painted over?
@@phreaktor I wouldn't use anything with harsh solvents. It will attack more soluble plastics like ABS, but also it offgasses some nasty vapors.
Something like Vallejo Ultra Matt is a better choice.
uv curing as well as heat treating resin prints is what you want for stiffness. They can come to a lefel of stiffness similar to fdm if done right. Stefan recently did this test.
Thanks for your time to test it💪😊I will try it today😎
Thank you ❤
My pleasure!
I wish I would've seen this sooner before printing out some proton pack parts. I knew this feature existed but didn't think about using it for a more subtle texture. And I was going to get some spray on bed liner to add the texture my existing parts but maybe I'll just reprint them while testing this setting just to see how it goes.
Bro, before you say that, I would imagine how was your solution becouse I tryed the same in my pieces and its realy works. Its nice becouse you corroborates with the facts. Thanks.
Thanks bro! I really appreciate your feedback! I hope you stick around for future video comments :D
I really enjoyed this video! Very few channels show the whole journey of finding a solution to a problem. They just tell you the answer is X.
Thank you! A lot of people are telling me the opposite. I’m glad you enjoyed!
@@jakemgrim Many people online tend to be very impatient when it comes to the content they consume. They often want instant gratification, that's why it's common to see the statement "I watched a 10 minute video just to learn that you used the Fuzzy Skin tool, you should have said that in 1 minute".
There are thousands of videos about the Fuzzy Skin tool in 3D slicers, there's nothing special about that. Most of them are using this tool for it's basic intended purpose (adding a rough texture to the print). It's rare to find people using this tool to solve a very common issue in 3d printing (hiding layer lines), like you did here.
I love that you started with a specific problem that many people face in 3d printing, then through experimentation and discovery stumbled upon the Fuzzy Skin tool. After this, you also did your own experiments to find the best settings for this tool. That whole process was educational and fun to watch! The storytelling was the best part about the video.
@@htpkey thank you so much my friend! I really really appreciate your feedback. You made my day. Thank you for your support :)
This is actually really useful advice. I've glanced at the setting before but never really considered trying it as no one really suggested it and I figured it created actual fuzzy skin in the form of intentional stringing. Thanks! I'll definitely give this a go on our X1C soon.
Glad to hear this helps! If you want to share pictures or videos of your projects you can post them in our discord linked above! Hope to see you around!
You dont need to heat the acetone for vapors. It evaporates at room temperature
Thanks for telling me now! I wish I knew that 10 years ago! I hope to see you around future videos because that’s really helpful :D
Great idea using the fuzzy skin. An hour extra for printing easily trumps your 1 to several days sand/primer/paint method.
Thank you! I hope this helps!
A good note on failure at the end. I notice you didn't just "try again", you tried SOMETHING DIFFERENT.
Thank you my friend!
Hi there! Do you have any recommendations on a good beginners 3D printer? Ive been designing 3D renders of shoes in Gravity Sketch that id like to test out for prototypes. After watching this video you seem very knowledgable of 3D printers so I thought id ask! Haha
Fuzzy skin feature is the very reason I dusted off my old 3d printer and started printing with it again. I already bought a resin printer because I wanted to get rid of the layer lines, but nothing can beat the durability of FDM parts.
Jake! Great info, getting my Bambu A1 Mini tomorrow, will try Fuzz ... btw great Shirts (what brand is it? Carhartt fleece)
Thank you! I hope you love your Bambu printer as much as I love mine! You’ll have to let me know how Fuzz goes for you. If you have any questions while setting it up, you can comment it on this video or in my discord(linked in the video description) and I’ll try to help you out! And thank you, it’s a Carhartt flannel I got from my mother for Christmas! I can check the tag later to see the exact “model” it is
For the impatient and ignorant people ,
5:10
The point of the video is to explain his process and failures to save you time if youre new.
LOL thank you my friend! Hope to see you around in future videos :)
Hey, there was an A1 recall. You really shouldn't be using your A1 until they provide a part or replacement device for the faulty power cable design. It can catch fire.
I thought you could 3d print a bracket? Are they really catching on fire?
@@jakemgrim Directly from their own article, "While the number of faulty printers is very small, we take the safety of our customers very seriously, and until we learn more about what exactly causes the heatbed cable problem, we recommend everyone stop using the printer for their safety.
". I can link it if you need but it's just called "A1 Recall Update" on their blog. It's 100% able to catch fire from the heated bed cable, it's not likely, but you certainly don't want to be the person who it happens to. Always when you least expect it.
@@jakemgrim They originally said you can print a bracket if you have a healthy cable, then seemed to change their minds to get a refund or wait for the new design.
Jake, great video. Like all the info on your journey to fuzzy skin. I have the x1 carbon and would like to see how to use a modifier to only put fuzzy skin on the outside, or only on one side. I have two halves, only want fuzzy skin on outside. Cheers!
I love your calm, detailed and helpfullly informative presentation style! Subscribed!
Thank you! I really appreciate your positive feedback. I’ve been getting a lot of negative comments and yours made me smile :)
Fuzzy skin is a remarkable saver in looks. All you gotta do it put the seam in the back/hide it away from the eyes and it looks phenomenal.
It’s a great feature! I wish I found it sooner!
Nah, random seam all the way. It won't show in your fuzzy skin!
@@b03tz I’ll check it out!
There's a new seam hiding method called scarf joint.
@@Measos77 There's a new hiding scarf called; joint method seam.
I think this guy is a genius and a great UA-camr and has a bright future!
Bro you’re the best! Thank you for your support!
You can place a modifier on areas that you don’t want the fuzzy skin, so there shouldn’t be a need to rescale the model.
You can add modifier in the shape of your outer walls and add fuzzy skin to those only. It would make printing quicker.
Great idea! Thank you!
Great video jake! Thanks for sharing your experiment results👌🏻
My pleasure! Thanks for watching!
😮 I never try fuzzy skin. This option also seen in prusa sclicer, but I skip it, now I try it, thanks 🙏 for enlighten fuzzy skin ❤😊.
I hope it goes well! :)
At a rate of $10k per injection mold, people might as well just buy their own CNC mills, lol.
Right! That’s what I was thinking!
Great video!! Thank you! I have a part i’m trying to match and this is exactly what i was looking for!! Can’t believe i haven’t seen this before!
It’s comments like yours that make me love making videos! I’m glad this helped! I’d love to see pictures of what you’re working on! You can post them in our Discord (linked in the description) if you want! I hope to see you around in future videos :)
I've been using a formlabs resin printer and it is the bambulab of resin printers and it is literally click print and leave and you can track the print online. But obviously it comes at a cost
It's funny seeing you go through the same process as I did, getting quotes for injection molding the resin printers etc etc.. good luck with your endeavours.
Thank you!
Maybe the key to making the fuzzy texture faster, would be to have a piezoelectric actuator right at the nozzle tip, moving it sideways in completely variable increments independent of the regular nozzle travel. Imagine some subtle up & down motion too, which might have good effects as well. Elsewhere I’ve just said that natural textures would be nice besides fuzziness.
There are some high-end resins that are more viable (even "ABS-like" and "Nylon-like" are pretty strong relatively speaking) but they still can't compare to the real deal rolling off a spool. They also must be painted to give them UV resistance. The fumes are even worse than the liquid, you really have to vent it, fills the room with an invisible VOC fog. Strong resins can only be washed with and cleanup can only be done with solvents high-percentage IPA for example). You can't leave liquid resin out, must be filtered and stored in an airtight container - even then, lifespan is limited. Waste product must be cured to make inert. Wash solution must be reprocessed (messy) or replaced (costly) periodically.
Resin printing produces unparalleled accuracy, and is really good for making figurines, statues, and other art that requires max precision and detail. But that's really where the usefulness ends for me. For practical parts FDM is better. FDM filament can be stored indefinitely, sealed with dessicant, and drying boxes can resuscitate "wet" filament. You can leave it out for quite some time even without a drying box. You can print tons of different types of real polys, and even fancy blended materials with the right nozzles. I'm just done with resin printing. Too much hassle.
If resin prints are warping it means you are typically over exposing each layer, UV light heats up resin when it starts to cure so the longer you cure them for the more they warp, while parts can warp during the printing process however it boils down to the cure station, over curing the print can cause warping.
Also resin is brittle because you are using the wrong resin, try to get UV Tough Resin and or ABS like resin for more durable parts, you can even get resin that is made for practical applications but the resin is more expensive.
Good to know! Thank you for sharing! I’ll give it a try!
@@jakemgrim The resin I use is Anycubic UV Tough Resin and Jayo ABS Like resin.
Also some more tips:
If the print is sticking to the FEP sheet then you are likely over curing the layers.
If the print falls off the supports it could mean the you either don't have enough or strong enough supports, the left speed of the print bed is too fast and or the temperature of the resin is too cold.
Resin works best around 25 to 30 degrees C and it allows the resin to quickly flow under the print bed when the print bed is lifted. Because resin is thick when the print bed rises after a layer is cured it creates suction and this suction can cause prints to be ripped off the supports, the colder the resin the more thicker the resin and more suction is created, too hot resin can cause warping and defects in the print.
It's annoying but once you get the sweet spot with brand/type of resin you shouldn't have to touch the settings again but you might have to once you try using a different resin or brand of resin... if using a new brand or type of resin after you have found your sweet spot always test the new resin/type of resin with a small print and that way you lower the risk of wasting a whole lot of resin.
Most printers don't come with a built in heater so I use a portable mini heater that i have facing the resin printer and I use a laser thermometer to check the resin temp.
If you didn't want the fuzzy skin in a certain place you could add a Modifier and turn off fuzzy skin. Then you wouldn't have to mess around with changing your tolerances.
Personally I prefer sleeker looking layer lines over the fuzzy skin, especially if printed on a good printer like a Bambu Lab. But it's a personal preference I guess
Thanks Jake for showcasing fuzzy skin. PrusaSlicer has it too (but fewer options?), so best case it works with any printer. I'll try it out. Have you posted a high resolution photo of your test prints somewhere? Thanks in advance.
It was my pleasure! I had a blast making the video! You make a good point about high resolution pictures. If you join our Discord community (liked in the description), I can post the pictures there! You can also message me through my website and I can send you pictures! Hope to see you around :)
I wouldn't completely dismiss using Blender as an option to create your custom texture. Consider using the "Tissue" addon which is already incorporated into Blender, tons of tutorials on how to use it. And its way easier than, say, Geometry nodes
.4 and .2 in my experience saves the most time
Cool! Thank you for sharing!
You should have bought siraya tech resin, it’s the best resin you can get for the price and it offers exceptional strength
Thank you for your feedback! I really want to give resin 3D printing another chance, so I will look into siraya tech. Hope to see you around :)
Everyday in FDM you learn something new. Than you for the video.
Great video! Keep in mind you can "MIX" resins to get the desired effect. In example ABS like resin mixing with 15% flexible resin - no more brittle parts.
Thank you! Really? You can mix resin!?! That’s so cool!! So 85% ABS like resin and 15% flex resin? Have you tried this and did it work well? Now I’m excited about resin printing again!
@@jakemgrim I do it all the time...rarely do I print with a straight resin; my resin vat is more like the ever-replenishing soup pot.
SuperPP 1.4GPa is clear, flexible, and super tough--I use Sunlu grey/white/black and add about 15% SuperPP. Makes minis that can fall off the table onto a brick floor without breaking!
@@jakemgrimdo bear in mind that it depends on the resins. Some resins might not get on well together. But in general yes you can mix them. It just might take some trial and error.
@@jakemgrimalso on the warping issue, it can be improved quite a lot with heavy supports, optimising your print settings and the part's angle to the bed.
@@sligit does adjusting your part angle, help prevent it from getting stuck to the fep? Changing the angle to reduce the surface area per layer help?
Layer lines on curved surfaces can be helped by choosing long top and bottom parters. Short lines that don't follow the shape are slow and the direction changes cause small ridges.
Second is flow adjustment because even 1% variation can change the texture.
Fine fuzzy means less tolerance problems and faster prints.
It would be great if they could implement this similar to the way they've implemented paint into Bambu Studio.
Have you tried the salt-annealing method? Just submerge in fiinely powdered salt (which will hold it in place) and put it in the oven at the appropriate temperature for a few hours. Makes surface very smooth.
That sounds like a super super cool idea!!!! I’ve never heard of that but now I want to try it! Is there any issues with warping when you do that??
@@jakemgrim I haven't tried it but apparently it works pretty well if you pack the salt tightly. Salt is great because it is cheap, stable under temperature, and washes away. You can also choose how smooth you want the surface to be, by the fineness of the salt powder you use. It doesn't let me post a link here but if you search for "remelting 3d printed thermoplastics" you can see the original video that popularized the technique.
@@findlaybuch that’s such a unique idea but makes so much sense! I’m going to try it sometime! Thank you so much for sharing :)
Thanks for sharing! May I know your layer height and line width?
May i ask, how did you get the fuzzy skin on the bottom layer that was in contact with the bed?