The thing is though that 3D printers are only now getting mainstream, and in the past 10-ish years tinkering was required to get them to work. I got CR-10 SE as a first printer, which is part of this new generation of printers that require much less tinkering, but you can still feel the tinkering mindset both in the community and with many manufacturers
@@milospavlovic7520 all of my newer printer just works, I never do anything to it. Even something super cheap like a $100 kingroon KP3S works great. If you look at the marketing, most new printers are trying to make 3D printing mainstream including creality, less assembly & everything is automated
Very true. Those who get a 3D printer for modding and tinkering like it's a hotrod got the Voron and various other DIY routes to embark on. Meanwhile you got folk like me who just want to whip up a design in CAD, send it to the printer and have the 3D part printed out in a matter of minutes/hours, not embark on hours of debugging and coaxing and wasted filament. I dropped the Ender 3 V2 for that reason, as it's just too unstable and glitchy to be usable with its single Z-axis and that horrid glass bed. Now using an Elegoo Neptune 4, and I'm much happier with popping prints off the PEI bed. Sometimes there's a failed print, but it's still a better experience than using a bleedin' inkjet printer in 2024.
And whatever you buy should work out of the box from the factory. Even if it’s meant to be maintenance heavy, it should come from the factory able to print reliably.
This is 100% not an ender 3. This is a different printer with the ender 3 name slapped on it for brand purposes. It's not an iteration like the ender 3 v2 was, its a significantly different chassis. I don't think a new chassis is *bad*, it just makes creality seem less reputable to try to sell it as a continuation of the e3 series. Did CREALITY put an MBA in charge of the company branding or something? An Engineer would not have done this.
@@theElemDragon essentially. They wanted to mimick Bambu I guess. They just didn't get the out of box use experience down. It uses the same print head that is on the K1 series and it is a bit of a pain to change and fix the extruder on it.
@@WhiteG60 No, it probably shouldn't have been. But like most companies, I'm sure the model has more to do with it's specific parameters than it does with how it functions or when it was released. Specifically, the build volume dictates the model number.
The true Ender 3 V3 is the Ender 3 V3 KE. A truly moddable 3d printer. And significantly silent compared to the V3 and even the K1 series. It has been my workhorse.
had one of those and now been using a Bambu P1S and I will never go back to a ender. I took this out of the box and made the best prints I have ever made by pressing print. More printing less tinkering.
I was thinking about Prusa to replace my high maintenance Ender 2, but seeing how many people recommend the Bambu made me check it out. So far, it looks promising. I'm burned by the lack of Creality's lack of customer support and at the moment the two deciding factors are reliability and customer support.
@@JasonRobards2 Bambu´s support is not good either. The P1P or P1S are both great printers. If you don´t need the AMS, the Creality K1 can be had for 250 bucks on eBay right now. Needs no tinkering at all as everything has been fixed already.
Creality Slicer is, um, "not good" at best. Use Orca slicer, runs much better and slices very well. I look at my Ender 3 pro as the printer of Theseus - its got so few original parts on it that its not really an Ender 3 Pro anymore, but yet it is the same shape. Truly a tinker tool, but I agree with you - 3d printers are appliances now and should just work.
First rule of 3d printing: NEVER USE OEM SLICER. Period. The only exception is bambulab, though they use (and contribute) Orca. In any other case use Prusha or Orca. AFAIR creality slicer is just branded outdated cura, which sucks. So try Orca.
Small correction, bambulabs doesn't use orca slicer. Bambu studio is a fork of prusa slicer (which itself is a fork of slic3r). Orca slicer is a fork of bambu studio.
I've happily used Elegoo Cura with my Neptune 4 since I got it. Tried Orca once since UA-camrs keep praising it and the Elegoos custom version started to be very old, but for some reason the result was crap even with the intended printer profile. So I got back to Cura and luckily Elegoo has now brought their custom version also up to date.
I have an ender 3 v2, whenever i slice with prusa i get wall separation, even with overlapping 30%... cura and prusa slicer no separation. Also my corners seem to be a bit more rounded than with creality slicer.
I would luv to not use the OEM slier, but there is no printer profile in cura or other slicers for the Ender-3 V3. I tried tweaking parameters to create my own, but it did not perform very well.
I have had an ender 3v3 plus for a month now and till now there have been no issues with it,no fails and no slicer issues,The creality slicer 5.1 is a great slicer. I would recommend removing the tube and making a spool holder for the top of the machine,it works way better and will remove the issue with the homing position
Creality Print 5.1 is a reskin of OrcaSlicer. You should definitely give OrcaSlicer a go! Way better than Creality Print by miles in pretty much every regard.
@@keremkesici4244 I see, I might have to give it a go, but than I gotta relearn it XD, Oh well, more tutorials exist for orcaslicer for a reason I guess, However, this video has caught me by surprise, I got a CR Ender 3 v3 se, I've had no real issues with it, Some tightening of belts had to be done and some slight loosening of the wheels of the extruder, other than that, it's really good, I wonder if the ender 3 v3 is just more tricky because of it's more "advanced" software?
@@Nevir202 man, u dont have such thing as "printer and slicer combo" in 3d printing space. Ur free to use any, and its as simple in any as it is in any other. So dont be funny
@@Kinzass LMFAO! If you don't think trying out different software to drive a product, instead of just using it as it comes from the manufacturer counts as tinkering with it, what pray tell does? tinker (with something) to make small changes to something in order to repair or improve it, especially in a way that may not be helpful
I'm curious if you would have better luck with Prusa Slicer. I use that with my CR-10 and it is significantly better than creality slicer. Still doesn't work near as well as my P1S but definitely better.
Yes. My first 3d printer was an ender 3 max neo. Used Cura and when it was tuned and level prints were excellent. It was getting the leveling right that was endlessly frustrating.
I have an Ender 3 S1 pro and I did not use creality slicer even once. I slice everything with Cura (it has built in profiles for Enders) and I have no issues whatsoever.
When I first got interested in 3D printing I wanted to dive in but not break the bank. Obvious choice at the time was the Ender 3 v2 (on sale for $140). I got it, put it together, leveled out the build plate (manually), and printed the test print that came with it. It was like a miracle, in hour or so I had a thing I didn’t previously have. So for me I’ll always have a soft spot for the Ender 3. I recognize it’s not the best in nearly any category but that’s beside the point. It was cheap and it worked. It is a tool for me so I rarely use it. Only make functional parts like brackets, clips, hangers, simple tools and things of that nature.
i think the suspended falcon failed at the same spot in both size is a cooling issue. let me explain: insufficient cooling can cause overhangs to curl up, and if the print head goes over such area, the stepper motor can skip a step. on a "regular" bedslinger, this would cause a layer shift, but on a coreXZ machine the skipping happens diagonally instead of horizontally. this causes the print head to move on the Z axis too, and the distance will be too much for the upcoming layers to be able to stuck to the ones below= spagetti creator. if the machine would have a step loss detection, as a bambu machine does, this wouldn't have happen.
Been trying to print some taller models with big suspended overhangs/sub-models on my V3, and I'm also running into the thing just failing like the suspended Falcon. I was thinking it might just be a typical bedslinger problem of model wobble, but this makes a lot of sense. As if bedslinger wobble on taller prints wasn't bad enough, additional CoreXZ quirks are just... gah. The V3 does come with a second cooling fan, but I don't know, I think it's just a bit too much work and a bit too much money to have to work around what should be basic 3D printer capabilities at this point. ... I think I'm just gonna trade mine out for a CoreXY Flashforge A5M for 20 bucks more, honestly. I don't think I'll miss 30mm of vertical print volume.
i do have the ender 3 v3 and this thing works fine. Sometimes there are some hassels with the filament-retracting, but all other things are very good. nothing to complain.
This is exactly the type of experience I've had with an Ender 3 v2, although considering that that thing required constant manual re-leveling, upgrades, etc., I think I've experienced even more pain than you did. That printer was my first and it made me set this hobby aside for 2 years until I recently got an AnkerMake M5C which has made my life immensely better. I'm planning to try one of BambuLabs printers at some point too, now that I have a positive experience with 3D printing. 3D printers are indeed an appliance, a tool to be used to produce stuff. Imagine having to take apart a drill and mess around with the mechanism every time you gotta drill a hole.
Try this (it works for me) . When you print tall items put a plastic bag over it. it keeps the heat in and lets the plastic stick. or raise the room temp.
the farther you get away from the bed the colder the plastic is and the new layer is to cold to bond . my final solution was to use the case off a XYZ printer over the printer and raise the nozzle temp. just like the rest of your printers that have houses around to keep the heat in.
I wonder if they have fixed the clogging problem. It always baffled me how much of the printer was left for the customer to "tweak". It basically left us to beta test the product. Oddly, while their customer support was outsourced to youtubers looking for content. (not this one though...) So many things stupid desing flaws are/were left to the user who then had to rely on unreliable sources to fix them. I believe we are past the novelty stage for 3D printing where this is an acceptable business practice. Half a year ago I bought a resin printer in the same price range and was amazed how much reliable that machine is. At the same time, it is so well made that I can't see how I could "tweak" the thing. I would be tempted to try the V3, as I was very happy with the V2. However, when I inevitably ran into a problem I could not fix myself, I experienced how utterly useless the Creality customer support is. The machine is now dead and I have nowhere to fix it. And I hate to spend this amount of money on something that could become unfixable.
as a person that started their 3d printing life with creality, this brings back so many memories. My ender was always plagued with issues. about half the time, it printed ok, the rest of the time it would fail midway. Which was especially frustrating on a very long print and it fails half way through. Now that ive upgraded to an x1c, sometimes when i hear an unusual sound coming from it, i get that ptsd of another potential failure lol my old ender is extremely quiet but still to this day even with all the upgrades and mods to it, the prints still only come out okay
Have an Ender 3 V3 SE as a first 3d printer. Used creality print in the beginning and had intermittent issues as well. Switched over to Cura and havent had any issues there after. Layers are solid, no lifting or warping even on TPU. The biggest issue like most says is the creality print software.
There's an Ender 3 v2 in boxes next to me for the same reasons you mentioned: I had to tinker/fix it all the time, and it still failed a bunch of times. That's why I'm saving up for a P1P.
@@Sir.Charles. I have a 3 pro, the other day the print head thermistor snapped, I had to replace it, and *all* new thermistors have a different negative coefficient compared to my specific board, meaning that at print temps the reported temperature is lower by about 15C. The only way to fix it is to recompile marlin, and that's a pretty big bother.
My Ender 3 v2 has been amazing. It's so reliable and with a few upgrades prints so well. I have a lithophane lamp shade I printed at .12 layer height, taking 77 hours, and it turned out perfect without a single printing issue. I've been running it for like 4 or 5 years at this point.
I got my first 3d printer a few months ago. Was a gift for my 40th birthday (yeah I'm officially old now). The 3 options I was considering within the price range of the gift budget were the Ender 3 V3 SE, ANYCUBIC Kobra 2 Neo, and the BIQU B1 (non-pro). I ended up leaning toward the BIQU B1, and so far I have been quite happy. I do wish I had had a bit more budget, though, because it basically has zero fancy.
I have an ender 3 v1 and at the beginning it gave me a lot of problems, it printed badly, it stopped without warning. And it turned out that it was the slicer, after a while they updated CURA and now it prints very well.
I would say that exactly same is happening to my friend. 2 years he is trying to fine tune his Ender 5, still with no success. Everytime he gets new issue. I told him that I would like to buy 3D printer and he still recommends Ender 3 to me :-D ...I have bought Bambu Lab A1 Mini and after few months it is just printing and printing. It is SO realible and awesome little machine. I am so glad that I have paid a bit more money for it. He is still ordering some parts and fideling with the printer and I do not have to bother at all with my Bambu Lab.
I mean.. if its a slicer issue, change slicers? I have probably the most flawless ender 3 and have had it since release, lucky me but I've been using orca slicer for the past year and the difference in quality is amazing. Also I wouldn't buy a creality printer over a bambu labs price, certainly never the V3 Lastly, what kinda of sweet torture have you put your beds through to get it looking like that?
I'm no fanboy, but you don't have to change slicer with Prusa or Bambu... That shouldn't be necessary and that's the point... They're marketing the 3V3 as a Bambu A1 replacement...
I had an ender 3 v2 and a flashforge adventurer 4. I tinkered the hell out of that ender and most of the time it just sat their cause there was something wrong with the config or something, so I mostly used the flashforge. Then Bambu came out and it's been my go-to printer since because it just works and always has good quality. I ended up putting the ender back to stock and it was printing good but then the nozzle got clogged and I was basically done at that point with it, so it is now living in the basement with a clogged nozzle. The flashforge ended up getting a new firmware and it crashed really hard so now I have to redo the calibration; square the gantry and I also don't want to deal with that so it's also in the basement.
4:45 ball screws are not the same as typical lead screws. As the name implies, ball screws actually use bearing balls rather than just a screw and bushing like typical lead screws. Ball screws are much more expensive than normal lead screws and thus are never really used on consumer machines
I know and understand your frustrations, I'm not defending Creality but have you tried updating the firmware? the printer is a few months old and I assume a small community on Reddit or FB has formed around that can help you fix the problem with the "flying gauntry". If it's software issue have you tried using other slicers?
To be honest, the ender 3 V3 is just a worse K1. It's basically all the same parts, but on a core x z platform. I would save up another 150 bucks and buy a K1C instead. This way you get a 'faster' core XY printer with an eclosure and better extruder / nozzel.
Oh hey btw... I got an Ender 3 Neo recently! 😄 ... Seriously though, I agree, Creality is a really temperamental printer. I've had to replace a few things in the first month just to get a solid print. Now after taking a few hours to 100% ensure the bed was level and I wasnt having any E-step issues Im actually getting good prints. Interesting that you're having issues with "Creality Slicer", I've been using it for months without issues. Oddly enough I've been having major issues with "Creality Print", Prusa, Bambu and a few others with them full on removing several layers in the slicing for no apparent reason, which sounds similar to your situation.
@@PaulSpades I find that unlikely on my end. Each program was a fresh install and Creality slicer was the only one not having the same issue. This was also confirmed by removing and reinstalling creality slicer.
take a look at the specs on your filament and the print speed the creality slicer is using. The defaults are in the 200 to 300 mm/s range, most filaments are rated for slower speeds than that, typically 30 to 90 mm/s. Slow it down. That clicking sound when it skipped is the filament jammed in the feed.
This is what happened to me. I was 14 and I loved building things and I wanted to get into 3d printing I heard about the Ender 3 upgrade ability and I picked up this printer. The printer worked kind of. Then all the parts came in and I upgraded it and it went down from there I got like 20ish good prints over 3 years. I watched hours of UA-cam trying to fix it and gave up. I came across the a1 and I am hoping to be able to print without tinkering and messing with the printer.
I bought the ender 3 v3 se. Its my first printed and just worked Fantastic out of the box. I do use cura for my slicer. I'm printing at 200mm/ ps It was only $250AU so about $170usd
I have to say though.... that was the GREATEST reference to how I, and i believe a lot of the 3D printing community, feel about a 3D printer. It should work. You shouldn't have to work on it working.
@@theElemDragon That is true for just about anything you buy. Any product that doesn't work as intended out of the box, is a crap product, and should be returned to the manufacturer. I mean, if you buy a car from a dealership you don't expect to have to install and tune the engine when you first get it, you expect to turn the key and drive.
I came from a 3 v2 and tried to apply its settings to the 3 v3. i learned that it is best using the high temp for the PLA 220 or so and most of the time wall Out first/Inner after. The 'Arachne' mode is not a thing in Creality print so I leave it for when properly implemented. Other than that, all good: fast printing, Nebula camera spaghetti-alert, smaller footprint, cheaper, Bambu slicer will add a profile for it (sooner or later as they did for the 3 v2...)
so you got a bad apple. i got my ender 3 ve neo i unpacked assembled it and used it 1-2 clogs and some bed adhesion isue .... but nothig mayor. after about 5 rolls of filamentson that printer. ( mostly pla . some petg and tpu )
if it's anything like my last prusa it looks like the extruder stepper is getting too hot. it melts the filament and the extruder just slips pretty much at the layer you were seeing (like an hour or so into the print). I had to print a fan mount and install a mini noctua just for the stepper motor to keep it cool enough. was annoying as f###. maybe the extruder tension on the filament was too high. who knows... i have a bambu now and will never look back.
The failure due to hotend jam after a certain height could indicate a "heat creep" issue, which may be caused by a broken or disconnected hotend fan failing to cool the hotend heat-sink. Now I'm curious to look at other reviews of this machine and see where it succeeds and where it falls down on user satisfaction. Admittedly we all have a lot to do in the open source firmware community to make sure that common printing issues are at least understandable, if not recoverable.
10:18 😃you shouldn't use metal parts inside of microwave for example, which is something you should learn - similar to any machine you buy. I think you had problem with slicer in ender side. Personally i don't like bambu studio or similar slicers with tons of options: Cura for me is the best - easy to use, good interface, just like your microwave example.
The first print in my opinion likely the center portion broke loose from the bed. This can happen when you are moving too fast with not enough surface area. This is an example where you either need to slow the speed down or add a raft to it. The other failed print is probably also printing a bit too fast. To print fast you need really good bed adhesion and surface area helps, but you also need to fine tune the exteuder output. If you are printing too fast and the exteuder is extruding more than it should it will be an issue, you may need to back the extrusion percentage down a little bit. Just my experience on the topic. It can happen on any printer. I agree an appliance is a good way to think of them but you still tweak things while cooking with your microwave cooking times. Not every printer has the exact settings they need out of the box unfortunately, i have played with many different brands. Sometimes a few small changes in the slicer is all it takes to fix them, but you have to know what to tweak. Not defending any printer either, i just have played enough to recognize symptoms sometimes.
My greatest concern in choosing a printer has been which Materials will print well ? I started using it for different projects that need different properties. So needle heating bed heating and accessories becomes super important.
I sold my Neptune 4 and bought the A1 Mini which I got today. It's so impressive how good this little machine prints compared to another "Modern" printers. I'm so happy with it.
I think part of the problem is that these companies didn’t have all that much motivation to improve with the 3d printing community saying stupid stuff like “you’re supposed to tinker with it, it’s part of the learning process!”.
I started out a tinkerer with a tronxy x3 for a couple hundred bucks and probably have $1,000 worth of parts in it by now and one day I just got tired of chasing problems and bought an X1C and couldn't be more thrilled. Now the only tinkering I do is dialing in engineering grade filaments and I just print stuff.
I have seen plenty of hassles with Bambu infact my dad has more trouble with his bambu than I expected, I suggested to him a Bambu before I got the V3 because I thought it would be a better option for more reliable printing, but he has had a number of issues including the print head pre printing slamming forward and throwing the printhead cover off and he had to tape it on because it wouldn't stay on. There are no guarantees with any brand and I believe Bambu is a little more refined but I am 100% sold on the Ender 3 V3, I was going to get the P1S Bambu but not now at this stage. I have the K1 max and have overcome the blockages and it is so reliable now and the V3 has not failed once and prints better. Weird how different people have such different experiences with all brands.
I got an ender 3 v3 corexz recently and did not experience this. I’ve printed a few tall models. The only issue I have is the bed is severely warped. I put my glass bed on it and that fixed the problem.
Wondering what slicer you are using. I had huge problems when trying to get my Ender 3 first version and tried the Creality slicer. Almost always when I used Cura it was awesome, of course you need to have the right settings for just the printer you will use. Wonder if it isn´t a user problem and you just can´t set up the slicer software, just because you are more of a user that don´t want to learn and set everything up. Prusa, Bambu or other fat wallet newbee printers sounds more like your type of hardware 🙂
Hi, I have an Ender 3 V3 as well and I never use the Creality Print slicer, I use Orca Slicer with a profile I made up myself. I have very few problems with print quality or failures. Because it is a bed slinger, I limit the speed and acceleration to 150mm/s and 2500 mm/s/2, respectively. The bed moving backward and forward will cause problems and the taller the print is the more problems it'll cause. I was planning on trying to make faster profiles but I like the speed things run at now considering the consistent print quality I get. If you want a copy of my Orca slicer settings/profile I can upload it for you
I have a suggestion that may be somewhat problematic without printing adapters, and will certainly not be cheap unless you can get manufacturers to send you their fans. Take the prop of the NF-A12x25 and use it on the motor+frame in place of other companies' fan props.
I have owned an Ender 3 V3 for about 6 months and already experimented with two reliability problems, which is a shame. I'm with you on this one, the Endre 3 V3, although great on paper just suffers from bad reliability. I'm sticking with it for now but a Bamu Lab will be on it' way to replace it really soon.
had the ender 3 v2, had it for 3 years. i would say 50/50 if the print was a success. now i got a bambu lab p1s, pure love for that machine. had it fail 2 out of many hundreds of prints. once i hadnt washed the plate in a long time so the print fell off (washed it and the prints almost wouldnt come off) and one time when it missed the poop shoot and the pla poop landed on the print bed, then it also failed (wouldnt start until i removed the poop and restarted)
I've been using an ender 3 s1 for a couple years of medium use, and it has been amazing! I got a v3 se and for the first couple weeks the speed and quality were impressive for the price, after that honeymoon period it was painful! I returned it since the fan bearings went, linear rails were sloppy, and the temperature was all over the place! My ol' S1 may not be the fastest or fanciest, but that thing chugs out prototypes day in, day out
I still have an OG Ender 3. Every time I use it, I think maybe I'm just awful at 3d printing. I sure have learned all the ways to fix a 3d printer, how a print can fail, and what to look for if I ever get a new one. At least 90% of the time I have with this printer is just fiddling with settings and accessories and new parts.
Did ya notice they all failed at about the same point? Once the head gets above a certain distance over the print head it fails. I'd seriously consider that it _might_ be hardware.
I've only had experience with the cheaper V3 SE, but I have to say I've had that for 5 or 6 months and I've had no problems with it whatsoever. My Sovol SV06 on the other hand has been a massive pain in the bum since I got it.
I feel like I'm in the same mindset as a lot of people who started out on Ender's. A friend of mine talked me into trying 3D printing, and MicroCenter had the deal where new customers could get an Ender 3 Pro for $99. He was a "new customer", so I used his info to buy one when we were there one day. Was fun at first..... then kept getting adhesion issues... bed leveling issues. Printed a few mods for the printer just because... but took some time to come out right. About a year later (maybe) I got an Ender 3 S1 Pro. Same thing... printed a mod or a few for it, printed some other little stuff here and there, eventually got the Creality Pad to run Klipper, which greatly increased the print speed. But still had to fight with bed leveling (which was HORRIFFIC with the standard built-in screen) on what seemed like a fairly regular basis. I got silicon hard mounts for it which helped stop it from going out of level as much, but it was still an Ender. I feel like if I hadn't said hell with it one day and decided to splurge and buy a Bambu P1P, I probably would have given up 3D printing by now. But.... several months after buying the P1P, I bought an X1C. I even started designing my own little crap in Fusion to print for around the house or for at work to make organizing the office a little nicer. Now..... I'm just hoping Bambu's next flagship printer will be a larger format than 256x256x256.
I see lots and lots of people that, like you, complain about the fact that they needed to re-level the bed every few prints on their Ender 3. I have an Ender 3 Pro, and was basically only sometimes adjusting a bit the level when the skirt was printing every few months. (on the stock springs). I'm guessing it comes down to people pushing on the bed when taking their prints off of it ? I just got.a second ender 3 pro (used) for a project, and I got it to printing quite quickly too, just tightened a few screws, leveled the bed and off I was. I'm sure a bambu labs printer is a much better and fancier machine, but it's not quite comparable when you see the price difference. Kinda sad that back then those printer were cheap, and now even the Ender 3 V3 is much more expensive than what his predecessors were
@@lucwal67 Your's is the exception, for most people (I was forced to use a couple of those demon's childs in work) is the most miserable 3D printing experience of their lifes.
@@lucwal67i still use my ender 3 or should i say, what's left of it after all the upgrade/mods. Taught me everything i know. Im more on the idea that a printer is a tool, not an appliance. Tools require maintenance and i enjoy the maintenance/problem solving.
I have an ender 3 in my closet that I am saving for spare parts maybe one day. Worked ok for a week or so. I say ok because I always had to make sure the print was going to stick on the first layer. But after a while, I started getting spaghetti piles. So I ended up throwing it out the back door on the concrete patio. I picked it up later and put it in the closet because it has stepper motors on it that may be useful one day on a project. Kind of ruined the 3d printer thing for me.
At first I was thinking "well obviously the a1 is much older and it's gotten updates it needs....but it's not, it's pretty close to the same release date. That being said, I recently got a v3 plus and it's printed fine so far (did have a software update). but i've printed at full speed and some at low speeds to test quality. No issues so far.(minus the stupid creality cloud printing the full 'mat' of skirting by default). I actually had a position error twice and just re-sliced it and it worked, once was with a benchy so it leads me to the same conclusion that it's software related. I'm making a semi-custom profile in other slicers to see what can be tweaked, but i've already had bad experiences w/ the creality slicer so I only got it because there's no default profile in orca/cura. I am potentially going to grab a k1 max or maybe a k2, but i'll wait a few months after release to gauge if it's worth the upgrade.
I'd be curious to see how it would fare with PrusaSlicer or OrcaSlicer. I'm sure there are decent profiles for it out there. That could potentially eliminate any issues due to software.
This video reflects my feelings for the most part. I love tinkering, figuring out how something works, making it work better, but at some point my 3D printer is just part of the process for another project. It should not become a project in itself unless I make it.
I went from an Anycubic Vyper to the Bambu X1-C, which made me a Bambu fanboy in less than 24 hours. I really liked my Vyper, but it's hilarious to watch how anemic it looks while printing next to the X1-C. I also didn't like Bambu studio compared to Cura at first, but now my opinion has totally inverted. At this point, Creality has a long way to come in order to stay competitive in my book.
Tbh same My first printer was a giant bed slinger from this one noname brand and it was absolute trash - layer shifts, a lot of spaghetti, motors reversed after software reset I did to get it's version of bl touch working, the bl touch calibration not levelling the bed, filament feeders constantly breaking and slipping, the extruder jamming all the time unfixably etc. And then I decided to get a bambu lab printer. And it just prints, rarely fails and works. And this is coming from a linux main who tinkers with stuff all the time, just 3d printers are annoying to screw with
The problem with the ender 3 is that I don't want to need to customize a printer I want it to come with the best stuff on it from the start. It shouldn't change the price as much as they try to charge for the upgraded version though.
I have a Ender 5 Plus and its a giant paper weight after fitting a duff BTT E3v3 board and screen. Ive tried, the shop tried and still it buries the nozzle into the bed as it forgets where its nozzle is at random times destroying nozzles and pei beds quicker than you can hit stop. I do like Creality though (even though they sent the wrong silent board when i went that way.) Their Efit extruder and spider hotend saved my Kingroon KP3S. I recommend that upgrade.
The random spaghetti was an issue i ran into with the e3 s1. It would just get to a random point in the print and skip a layer in the gcode for no reason. I also thought it was the software but still ran into the same issue with other slicers. Also switched to using kepler, same issue. Never could figure out the cause. Switched to the p1s and never looked back.
Knock on wood, I've had my V2 for I think going on 3 years now and I've done zero tinkering with it. The only issue I have with it, which has me in the market for a new 3d printer, is the print speed. 50mm/s just doesn't cut it on a big print. Started printing terrain for table top and stopped really quick when I realized 1 piece of terrain is 3 or 4 parts, and each part will take around 48 hours to print. That being said about having no issues with my V2, I'm still leaning toward a Bambu. The issue though, is that the V3 is just at such a good price point for those print speeds. If I wanted to go with a Prusa or Bambu with that build plate size, I'd be paying more than double.
My Ender 5 printed fantastic models, when it printed, but it finished about 1 in 20 prints without error which is awful. The design was flawed from the start. I spent so much time trying to improve that printer to make it reliable but in the end, I sacked it and bought an Ender 3 S1 which has been faultless. I was looking at upgrading again to a bambu labs P1P or X1C but until my S1 fails or is printing 24/7 I don't "need" faster speeds or greater reliability.
Although I do love to tinker, when the printer decides when you have to it's a problem. Had 2 Ender3's the orig & the v2, & like you said when it printed w/o mistakes it was great, but the time lost & cost of things failing all the time- I finally said enough was enough. I have used some others too but not a Bambu Lab. I Replaced it with an Elegoo Neptune. It's like night & day- been printing virtually non-stop, for almost a yr & a half. I had 3 errors, all 3 were my fault, & their fantastic tech support had me up in running in minutes. The one time something actually broke bad, they AIR-SHIPPED a replacement part that was @ my door in under 14 hrs. They have an entire YT channel of most any problem you might have for general use. It just works, & more importantly- it works when you want it to.
Those problems seem to be an slicer issue with this printer. I bought one yesterday, yes YESTERDAY. Obviously i still haven't used it enough, but I printed a sink caddy 15cm tall with no issues. I'm using creality slicer until the others have a profile for this printer. I'll be testing OrcaSlicer too Nice prints everyone
User error, first you throw star wars model at 600mm/s that will fail at that speed, gunk the printer with melted filament and most likley stuck your leveling sensor, then you go to easy stuff that will not print becasue you made double mess last night. Creality printers are amaizing at their price point, 300$ vs 900 for etg Prusa, will the print job be 300% better on prusa? No, maybe 20% better. Creality is the best entry level printer you can get for the money, absolute best bang for the buck, are there better printers? YES, are there better printers for the money? Not really
Hey man, I am looking into this printer and this review kinda got me tweeking a little bit. I don't know jack shit on this topic and I am obviously trying to learn a bit more now. Would this still be a good buy? My options I am looking at is Ender 3 NEO Ender 3v3 Ender 3v3 KE Are these good? I am a little bit of a tech enthusiast, and I am a fast learner. I like to tinker so I don't mind that.
I have a V1 Ender 3 for about two years, it's my only printer and I absolutely hate it. The homing of a Z axis works so bad that I have to adjust babystep Z literally every print and than chek if the first layer sticks to the bed. Sometimes I start a print but while homing one of the axis doesn't recognize it's zero position and motor just keeps turning trying to go into negative numbers. I'm always so angry doing anything with that printer.
What slicer and printer profile did you use? Oh, you said creality slicer. You should try it with orca slicer and use a better profile to see how it does as a comparison
I fully understand where you are coming from, I just got my P1S with AMS yesterday as my replacement for my OG ender 3 and I have pumped out 12 prints already, 10 cardboard spool rings and my first 2 multi color prints, I can't express just how insainly wonderful it feels being able to just hit print and have everything work. it was worth every cent so far But I am NOT throwing out my ender 3, I do like tinkering, it's just that that printer was too much tinkering. I have plans to make it a PET bottle filiment maker! (CNC Kitchen has a video on it)
Got an Ender 3 Max Neo that arrived 2 weeks ago. First print was the calibration cube and it printed 75%... Yeah, I wasn't happy about that. Following day I adjusted my printing temp and got a smooth print. Ever since I've moved on to a different slicing software cuz in all honesty, there are no options in Creality's software for adjustments or anything that seemed obvious to me at the time to make my life easier. Also their supports are horrendous as I had issues removing it from my prints, wasting even more filament than necessary due to breaking parts because of the finer details and intricacies of prints. I've been using Orca slicer on Linux, and haven't had issues since, except for a few prints not adhering to the bed, but there I messed up, so for me the experience with my Ender 3 Max Neo has been working as expected. For a beginner it's been quite a good experience despite the fears I initially had. But again, don't use Creality's slicer, it's not worth it
I learned to print on an OG ender 3 with an 8-bit main board. I still use it to this day. I'm going to get an A1 mini. Looks like a good quality printer.
Also, not a fan of Creality. I bought a Creality brand enclosure for my laser engraver and compared to a generic enclosure for my resin printer, it sucks. The bottom is open. It's for a LASER ENGRAVER? WTH?
I attempted to buy an Ender 3 v3 the other day... had an issue that customer support didn't help with during purchasing it XD maybe that was a sign of some kind
I got my Ender 3 max a few years ago, and I learned to dislike the brand, too. One red flag is that they don't release firmware updates after a year or so. I also tried their filaments lately because it was inexpensive, but it kept jamming for no obvious reason: I swapped out for Eelego filament, and it printed without issues again.
Your point about 3D printers being appliances that should work is very true, tinkering should improve, not fix.
The thing is though that 3D printers are only now getting mainstream, and in the past 10-ish years tinkering was required to get them to work. I got CR-10 SE as a first printer, which is part of this new generation of printers that require much less tinkering, but you can still feel the tinkering mindset both in the community and with many manufacturers
@@milospavlovic7520 all of my newer printer just works, I never do anything to it. Even something super cheap like a $100 kingroon KP3S works great. If you look at the marketing, most new printers are trying to make 3D printing mainstream including creality, less assembly & everything is automated
Very true. Those who get a 3D printer for modding and tinkering like it's a hotrod got the Voron and various other DIY routes to embark on. Meanwhile you got folk like me who just want to whip up a design in CAD, send it to the printer and have the 3D part printed out in a matter of minutes/hours, not embark on hours of debugging and coaxing and wasted filament.
I dropped the Ender 3 V2 for that reason, as it's just too unstable and glitchy to be usable with its single Z-axis and that horrid glass bed. Now using an Elegoo Neptune 4, and I'm much happier with popping prints off the PEI bed. Sometimes there's a failed print, but it's still a better experience than using a bleedin' inkjet printer in 2024.
And whatever you buy should work out of the box from the factory. Even if it’s meant to be maintenance heavy, it should come from the factory able to print reliably.
Ehh sorta, my Davinci “just worked” in 2014 and they locked you out of being able to tinker.
Don’t buy davinci tho… proprietary overpriced filament
This is 100% not an ender 3. This is a different printer with the ender 3 name slapped on it for brand purposes. It's not an iteration like the ender 3 v2 was, its a significantly different chassis.
I don't think a new chassis is *bad*, it just makes creality seem less reputable to try to sell it as a continuation of the e3 series.
Did CREALITY put an MBA in charge of the company branding or something? An Engineer would not have done this.
Don't trust 3d printer reviews.
The Ender 3 v3 isn't really a tinkerer's printer. All the things that made the original 3 and 3 pro tinkerers printers have been changed.
So........ what you're saying is they made an Ender 3, that practically can't be modded like an Ender 3? lol
@@theElemDragon essentially. They wanted to mimick Bambu I guess. They just didn't get the out of box use experience down. It uses the same print head that is on the K1 series and it is a bit of a pain to change and fix the extruder on it.
@@theElemDragon It shouldn't have been called an Ender 3. Give it a new name because it's not even the same kinematic design as the ender 3.
@@WhiteG60 No, it probably shouldn't have been. But like most companies, I'm sure the model has more to do with it's specific parameters than it does with how it functions or when it was released. Specifically, the build volume dictates the model number.
The true Ender 3 V3 is the Ender 3 V3 KE. A truly moddable 3d printer. And significantly silent compared to the V3 and even the K1 series. It has been my workhorse.
had one of those and now been using a Bambu P1S and I will never go back to a ender. I took this out of the box and made the best prints I have ever made by pressing print. More printing less tinkering.
I was thinking about Prusa to replace my high maintenance Ender 2, but seeing how many people recommend the Bambu made me check it out. So far, it looks promising.
I'm burned by the lack of Creality's lack of customer support and at the moment the two deciding factors are reliability and customer support.
@@JasonRobards2 Bambu´s support is not good either. The P1P or P1S are both great printers. If you don´t need the AMS, the Creality K1 can be had for 250 bucks on eBay right now. Needs no tinkering at all as everything has been fixed already.
Creality Slicer is, um, "not good" at best. Use Orca slicer, runs much better and slices very well. I look at my Ender 3 pro as the printer of Theseus - its got so few original parts on it that its not really an Ender 3 Pro anymore, but yet it is the same shape. Truly a tinker tool, but I agree with you - 3d printers are appliances now and should just work.
Like a lot of Ender 3s, mine has so many mods it is now an Ender 3 clone.
I agree... I use Orca Slicer for everything these days.
First rule of 3d printing: NEVER USE OEM SLICER. Period. The only exception is bambulab, though they use (and contribute) Orca. In any other case use Prusha or Orca. AFAIR creality slicer is just branded outdated cura, which sucks. So try Orca.
Small correction, bambulabs doesn't use orca slicer. Bambu studio is a fork of prusa slicer (which itself is a fork of slic3r). Orca slicer is a fork of bambu studio.
does that also aply on the Creality print 5.0?
I've happily used Elegoo Cura with my Neptune 4 since I got it. Tried Orca once since UA-camrs keep praising it and the Elegoos custom version started to be very old, but for some reason the result was crap even with the intended printer profile. So I got back to Cura and luckily Elegoo has now brought their custom version also up to date.
I have an ender 3 v2, whenever i slice with prusa i get wall separation, even with overlapping 30%... cura and prusa slicer no separation. Also my corners seem to be a bit more rounded than with creality slicer.
I would luv to not use the OEM slier, but there is no printer profile in cura or other slicers for the Ender-3 V3. I tried tweaking parameters to create my own, but it did not perform very well.
5:06, "according to reality" lol
The reference to Need for Speed: Underground 1 & 2 with the music at 0:31 is fantastic!
I have had an ender 3v3 plus for a month now and till now there have been no issues with it,no fails and no slicer issues,The creality slicer 5.1 is a great slicer. I would recommend removing the tube and making a spool holder for the top of the machine,it works way better and will remove the issue with the homing position
Creality Print 5.1 is a reskin of OrcaSlicer. You should definitely give OrcaSlicer a go! Way better than Creality Print by miles in pretty much every regard.
@@keremkesici4244 I see, I might have to give it a go, but than I gotta relearn it XD, Oh well, more tutorials exist for orcaslicer for a reason I guess, However, this video has caught me by surprise, I got a CR Ender 3 v3 se, I've had no real issues with it, Some tightening of belts had to be done and some slight loosening of the wheels of the extruder, other than that, it's really good, I wonder if the ender 3 v3 is just more tricky because of it's more "advanced" software?
the OG 3 etc needed tinkering to get to run anywhere near decently, got an A1 Mini and never looked back at Creality, it's just so effortless
Can you try it with a different slicer then? Printers are not coupled to the slicer.
Well, that would be tinkering, wouldn't it?
No it will not be@@Nevir202
@@Kinzass Absolutely is.
@@Nevir202 man, u dont have such thing as "printer and slicer combo" in 3d printing space. Ur free to use any, and its as simple in any as it is in any other. So dont be funny
@@Kinzass LMFAO! If you don't think trying out different software to drive a product, instead of just using it as it comes from the manufacturer counts as tinkering with it, what pray tell does?
tinker (with something) to make small changes to something in order to repair or improve it, especially in a way that may not be helpful
I'm curious if you would have better luck with Prusa Slicer. I use that with my CR-10 and it is significantly better than creality slicer. Still doesn't work near as well as my P1S but definitely better.
Yes. My first 3d printer was an ender 3 max neo. Used Cura and when it was tuned and level prints were excellent. It was getting the leveling right that was endlessly frustrating.
I have an Ender 3 S1 pro and I did not use creality slicer even once. I slice everything with Cura (it has built in profiles for Enders) and I have no issues whatsoever.
When I first got interested in 3D printing I wanted to dive in but not break the bank. Obvious choice at the time was the Ender 3 v2 (on sale for $140). I got it, put it together, leveled out the build plate (manually), and printed the test print that came with it.
It was like a miracle, in hour or so I had a thing I didn’t previously have.
So for me I’ll always have a soft spot for the Ender 3. I recognize it’s not the best in nearly any category but that’s beside the point. It was cheap and it worked.
It is a tool for me so I rarely use it. Only make functional parts like brackets, clips, hangers, simple tools and things of that nature.
i think the suspended falcon failed at the same spot in both size is a cooling issue. let me explain: insufficient cooling can cause overhangs to curl up, and if the print head goes over such area, the stepper motor can skip a step. on a "regular" bedslinger, this would cause a layer shift, but on a coreXZ machine the skipping happens diagonally instead of horizontally. this causes the print head to move on the Z axis too, and the distance will be too much for the upcoming layers to be able to stuck to the ones below= spagetti creator. if the machine would have a step loss detection, as a bambu machine does, this wouldn't have happen.
Been trying to print some taller models with big suspended overhangs/sub-models on my V3, and I'm also running into the thing just failing like the suspended Falcon. I was thinking it might just be a typical bedslinger problem of model wobble, but this makes a lot of sense. As if bedslinger wobble on taller prints wasn't bad enough, additional CoreXZ quirks are just... gah.
The V3 does come with a second cooling fan, but I don't know, I think it's just a bit too much work and a bit too much money to have to work around what should be basic 3D printer capabilities at this point.
... I think I'm just gonna trade mine out for a CoreXY Flashforge A5M for 20 bucks more, honestly. I don't think I'll miss 30mm of vertical print volume.
i do have the ender 3 v3 and this thing works fine. Sometimes there are some hassels with the filament-retracting, but all other things are very good. nothing to complain.
This is exactly the type of experience I've had with an Ender 3 v2, although considering that that thing required constant manual re-leveling, upgrades, etc., I think I've experienced even more pain than you did.
That printer was my first and it made me set this hobby aside for 2 years until I recently got an AnkerMake M5C which has made my life immensely better. I'm planning to try one of BambuLabs printers at some point too, now that I have a positive experience with 3D printing.
3D printers are indeed an appliance, a tool to be used to produce stuff. Imagine having to take apart a drill and mess around with the mechanism every time you gotta drill a hole.
Try this (it works for me) . When you print tall items put a plastic bag over it. it keeps the heat in and lets the plastic stick. or raise the room temp.
the farther you get away from the bed the colder the plastic is and the new layer is to cold to bond . my final solution was to use the case off a XYZ printer over the printer and raise the nozzle temp. just like the rest of your printers that have houses around to keep the heat in.
I wonder if they have fixed the clogging problem. It always baffled me how much of the printer was left for the customer to "tweak". It basically left us to beta test the product. Oddly, while their customer support was outsourced to youtubers looking for content. (not this one though...)
So many things stupid desing flaws are/were left to the user who then had to rely on unreliable sources to fix them. I believe we are past the novelty stage for 3D printing where this is an acceptable business practice. Half a year ago I bought a resin printer in the same price range and was amazed how much reliable that machine is. At the same time, it is so well made that I can't see how I could "tweak" the thing.
I would be tempted to try the V3, as I was very happy with the V2. However, when I inevitably ran into a problem I could not fix myself, I experienced how utterly useless the Creality customer support is. The machine is now dead and I have nowhere to fix it. And I hate to spend this amount of money on something that could become unfixable.
as a person that started their 3d printing life with creality, this brings back so many memories. My ender was always plagued with issues. about half the time, it printed ok, the rest of the time it would fail midway. Which was especially frustrating on a very long print and it fails half way through. Now that ive upgraded to an x1c, sometimes when i hear an unusual sound coming from it, i get that ptsd of another potential failure lol my old ender is extremely quiet but still to this day even with all the upgrades and mods to it, the prints still only come out okay
I just finished reading Earth unaware. I'm looking forward to reading the rest of the Ender books.
Have an Ender 3 V3 SE as a first 3d printer. Used creality print in the beginning and had intermittent issues as well. Switched over to Cura and havent had any issues there after. Layers are solid, no lifting or warping even on TPU. The biggest issue like most says is the creality print software.
Happens to me very often the first time I bought this printer. Using Orca Slicer and making it print slower works for me.
There's an Ender 3 v2 in boxes next to me for the same reasons you mentioned: I had to tinker/fix it all the time, and it still failed a bunch of times. That's why I'm saving up for a P1P.
My E3v2 is working just fine. Hundreds of hours of prints. What sort of issues are you having?
@@Sir.Charles. I have a 3 pro, the other day the print head thermistor snapped, I had to replace it, and *all* new thermistors have a different negative coefficient compared to my specific board, meaning that at print temps the reported temperature is lower by about 15C. The only way to fix it is to recompile marlin, and that's a pretty big bother.
My Ender 3 v2 has been amazing. It's so reliable and with a few upgrades prints so well. I have a lithophane lamp shade I printed at .12 layer height, taking 77 hours, and it turned out perfect without a single printing issue. I've been running it for like 4 or 5 years at this point.
I got my first 3d printer a few months ago. Was a gift for my 40th birthday (yeah I'm officially old now). The 3 options I was considering within the price range of the gift budget were the Ender 3 V3 SE, ANYCUBIC Kobra 2 Neo, and the BIQU B1 (non-pro). I ended up leaning toward the BIQU B1, and so far I have been quite happy. I do wish I had had a bit more budget, though, because it basically has zero fancy.
I have an ender 3 v1 and at the beginning it gave me a lot of problems, it printed badly, it stopped without warning. And it turned out that it was the slicer, after a while they updated CURA and now it prints very well.
I would say that exactly same is happening to my friend. 2 years he is trying to fine tune his Ender 5, still with no success. Everytime he gets new issue. I told him that I would like to buy 3D printer and he still recommends Ender 3 to me :-D ...I have bought Bambu Lab A1 Mini and after few months it is just printing and printing. It is SO realible and awesome little machine. I am so glad that I have paid a bit more money for it. He is still ordering some parts and fideling with the printer and I do not have to bother at all with my Bambu Lab.
I was considering Prusa, but will add Bambu to the list. I'm tired of "fixing" my Ender 3.
I mean.. if its a slicer issue, change slicers? I have probably the most flawless ender 3 and have had it since release, lucky me but I've been using orca slicer for the past year and the difference in quality is amazing.
Also I wouldn't buy a creality printer over a bambu labs price, certainly never the V3
Lastly, what kinda of sweet torture have you put your beds through to get it looking like that?
I'm no fanboy, but you don't have to change slicer with Prusa or Bambu...
That shouldn't be necessary and that's the point...
They're marketing the 3V3 as a Bambu A1 replacement...
What material can i use to make busings for like a snowblower or riding mower?
I had an ender 3 v2 and a flashforge adventurer 4. I tinkered the hell out of that ender and most of the time it just sat their cause there was something wrong with the config or something, so I mostly used the flashforge. Then Bambu came out and it's been my go-to printer since because it just works and always has good quality. I ended up putting the ender back to stock and it was printing good but then the nozzle got clogged and I was basically done at that point with it, so it is now living in the basement with a clogged nozzle. The flashforge ended up getting a new firmware and it crashed really hard so now I have to redo the calibration; square the gantry and I also don't want to deal with that so it's also in the basement.
4:45 ball screws are not the same as typical lead screws. As the name implies, ball screws actually use bearing balls rather than just a screw and bushing like typical lead screws. Ball screws are much more expensive than normal lead screws and thus are never really used on consumer machines
I know and understand your frustrations, I'm not defending Creality but have you tried updating the firmware? the printer is a few months old and I assume a small community on Reddit or FB has formed around that can help you fix the problem with the "flying gauntry". If it's software issue have you tried using other slicers?
That is irrelevant to his ownership type, NOT a tinkerer. Those of us who do, this is an easy fix.
To be honest, the ender 3 V3 is just a worse K1. It's basically all the same parts, but on a core x z platform. I would save up another 150 bucks and buy a K1C instead. This way you get a 'faster' core XY printer with an eclosure and better extruder / nozzel.
why would you waste money on another creality? just get qidi q1, it is a much better machine.
The ender 3 v3 and k1c share the same extruder/hotend setup
@@theayuwoki3569 In the marketing yes, but I've seen them shipped with the stock K1 extruder / nozzle as well. Pretty cheeky.
Oh hey btw... I got an Ender 3 Neo recently! 😄
...
Seriously though, I agree, Creality is a really temperamental printer. I've had to replace a few things in the first month just to get a solid print. Now after taking a few hours to 100% ensure the bed was level and I wasnt having any E-step issues Im actually getting good prints.
Interesting that you're having issues with "Creality Slicer", I've been using it for months without issues. Oddly enough I've been having major issues with "Creality Print", Prusa, Bambu and a few others with them full on removing several layers in the slicing for no apparent reason, which sounds similar to your situation.
Sounds to me like the software is getting buggier, which is not surprising at all.
@@PaulSpades I find that unlikely on my end. Each program was a fresh install and Creality slicer was the only one not having the same issue. This was also confirmed by removing and reinstalling creality slicer.
@@CFoxtrot25 No your installation, the projects releases themselves.
take a look at the specs on your filament and the print speed the creality slicer is using. The defaults are in the 200 to 300 mm/s range, most filaments are rated for slower speeds than that, typically 30 to 90 mm/s. Slow it down. That clicking sound when it skipped is the filament jammed in the feed.
This is what happened to me. I was 14 and I loved building things and I wanted to get into 3d printing I heard about the Ender 3 upgrade ability and I picked up this printer. The printer worked kind of. Then all the parts came in and I upgraded it and it went down from there I got like 20ish good prints over 3 years. I watched hours of UA-cam trying to fix it and gave up. I came across the a1 and I am hoping to be able to print without tinkering and messing with the printer.
I bought the ender 3 v3 se.
Its my first printed and just worked Fantastic out of the box. I do use cura for my slicer.
I'm printing at 200mm/ ps
It was only $250AU so about $170usd
Bruh! You put popcorn in the microwave for 5 minutes?! 😂 lol great video and review 😄👍🏻
I have to say though.... that was the GREATEST reference to how I, and i believe a lot of the 3D printing community, feel about a 3D printer. It should work. You shouldn't have to work on it working.
@@theElemDragon That is true for just about anything you buy.
Any product that doesn't work as intended out of the box, is a crap product, and should be returned to the manufacturer.
I mean, if you buy a car from a dealership you don't expect to have to install and tune the engine when you first get it, you expect to turn the key and drive.
I came from a 3 v2 and tried to apply its settings to the 3 v3. i learned that it is best using the high temp for the PLA 220 or so and most of the time wall Out first/Inner after. The 'Arachne' mode is not a thing in Creality print so I leave it for when properly implemented. Other than that, all good: fast printing, Nebula camera spaghetti-alert, smaller footprint, cheaper, Bambu slicer will add a profile for it (sooner or later as they did for the 3 v2...)
so you got a bad apple. i got my ender 3 ve neo i unpacked assembled it and used it
1-2 clogs and some bed adhesion isue .... but nothig mayor. after about 5 rolls of filamentson that printer. ( mostly pla . some petg and tpu )
if it's anything like my last prusa it looks like the extruder stepper is getting too hot. it melts the filament and the extruder just slips pretty much at the layer you were seeing (like an hour or so into the print). I had to print a fan mount and install a mini noctua just for the stepper motor to keep it cool enough. was annoying as f###. maybe the extruder tension on the filament was too high. who knows... i have a bambu now and will never look back.
The failure due to hotend jam after a certain height could indicate a "heat creep" issue, which may be caused by a broken or disconnected hotend fan failing to cool the hotend heat-sink.
Now I'm curious to look at other reviews of this machine and see where it succeeds and where it falls down on user satisfaction. Admittedly we all have a lot to do in the open source firmware community to make sure that common printing issues are at least understandable, if not recoverable.
10:18 😃you shouldn't use metal parts inside of microwave for example, which is something you should learn - similar to any machine you buy.
I think you had problem with slicer in ender side.
Personally i don't like bambu studio or similar slicers with tons of options: Cura for me is the best - easy to use, good interface, just like
your microwave example.
The first print in my opinion likely the center portion broke loose from the bed. This can happen when you are moving too fast with not enough surface area. This is an example where you either need to slow the speed down or add a raft to it. The other failed print is probably also printing a bit too fast. To print fast you need really good bed adhesion and surface area helps, but you also need to fine tune the exteuder output. If you are printing too fast and the exteuder is extruding more than it should it will be an issue, you may need to back the extrusion percentage down a little bit. Just my experience on the topic. It can happen on any printer. I agree an appliance is a good way to think of them but you still tweak things while cooking with your microwave cooking times. Not every printer has the exact settings they need out of the box unfortunately, i have played with many different brands. Sometimes a few small changes in the slicer is all it takes to fix them, but you have to know what to tweak. Not defending any printer either, i just have played enough to recognize symptoms sometimes.
on my second ender3 printer
yeah is have some issues
but there is ways around
like use cura or prusa slicer they work better than creality print
My greatest concern in choosing a printer has been which Materials will print well ? I started using it for different projects that need different properties. So needle heating bed heating and accessories becomes super important.
I sold my Neptune 4 and bought the A1 Mini which I got today. It's so impressive how good this little machine prints compared to another "Modern" printers. I'm so happy with it.
I think part of the problem is that these companies didn’t have all that much motivation to improve with the 3d printing community saying stupid stuff like “you’re supposed to tinker with it, it’s part of the learning process!”.
I started out a tinkerer with a tronxy x3 for a couple hundred bucks and probably have $1,000 worth of parts in it by now and one day I just got tired of chasing problems and bought an X1C and couldn't be more thrilled. Now the only tinkering I do is dialing in engineering grade filaments and I just print stuff.
I have seen plenty of hassles with Bambu infact my dad has more trouble with his bambu than I expected, I suggested to him a Bambu before I got the V3 because I thought it would be a better option for more reliable printing, but he has had a number of issues including the print head pre printing slamming forward and throwing the printhead cover off and he had to tape it on because it wouldn't stay on. There are no guarantees with any brand and I believe Bambu is a little more refined but I am 100% sold on the Ender 3 V3, I was going to get the P1S Bambu but not now at this stage. I have the K1 max and have overcome the blockages and it is so reliable now and the V3 has not failed once and prints better. Weird how different people have such different experiences with all brands.
I got an ender 3 v3 corexz recently and did not experience this. I’ve printed a few tall models. The only issue I have is the bed is severely warped. I put my glass bed on it and that fixed the problem.
Ive not had a problem with my ender3 s1 pro.
Once id learned how to make prints stick to the plate.
SuperSlicer and Cura are brilliant.
Why would you use Creality slicer? Cura or Bambu Studio.
3:40 you must have misread. The 10k is acceleration not speed
Wondering what slicer you are using. I had huge problems when trying to get my Ender 3 first version and tried the Creality slicer. Almost always when I used Cura it was awesome, of course you need to have the right settings for just the printer you will use.
Wonder if it isn´t a user problem and you just can´t set up the slicer software, just because you are more of a user that don´t want to learn and set everything up. Prusa, Bambu or other fat wallet newbee printers sounds more like your type of hardware 🙂
Hi, I have an Ender 3 V3 as well and I never use the Creality Print slicer, I use Orca Slicer with a profile I made up myself. I have very few problems with print quality or failures.
Because it is a bed slinger, I limit the speed and acceleration to 150mm/s and 2500 mm/s/2, respectively. The bed moving backward and forward will cause problems and the taller the print is the more problems it'll cause. I was planning on trying to make faster profiles but I like the speed things run at now considering the consistent print quality I get.
If you want a copy of my Orca slicer settings/profile I can upload it for you
Can you send me this? Just ordered one
Me too please
Can you send me this please ? Thx !
I have a suggestion that may be somewhat problematic without printing adapters, and will certainly not be cheap unless you can get manufacturers to send you their fans.
Take the prop of the NF-A12x25 and use it on the motor+frame in place of other companies' fan props.
I have owned an Ender 3 V3 for about 6 months and already experimented with two reliability problems, which is a shame. I'm with you on this one, the Endre 3 V3, although great on paper just suffers from bad reliability. I'm sticking with it for now but a Bamu Lab will be on it' way to replace it really soon.
had the ender 3 v2, had it for 3 years. i would say 50/50 if the print was a success. now i got a bambu lab p1s, pure love for that machine. had it fail 2 out of many hundreds of prints. once i hadnt washed the plate in a long time so the print fell off (washed it and the prints almost wouldnt come off) and one time when it missed the poop shoot and the pla poop landed on the print bed, then it also failed (wouldnt start until i removed the poop and restarted)
I've been using an ender 3 s1 for a couple years of medium use, and it has been amazing! I got a v3 se and for the first couple weeks the speed and quality were impressive for the price, after that honeymoon period it was painful! I returned it since the fan bearings went, linear rails were sloppy, and the temperature was all over the place! My ol' S1 may not be the fastest or fanciest, but that thing chugs out prototypes day in, day out
I still have an OG Ender 3. Every time I use it, I think maybe I'm just awful at 3d printing. I sure have learned all the ways to fix a 3d printer, how a print can fail, and what to look for if I ever get a new one. At least 90% of the time I have with this printer is just fiddling with settings and accessories and new parts.
Did ya notice they all failed at about the same point? Once the head gets above a certain distance over the print head it fails. I'd seriously consider that it _might_ be hardware.
I've only had experience with the cheaper V3 SE, but I have to say I've had that for 5 or 6 months and I've had no problems with it whatsoever. My Sovol SV06 on the other hand has been a massive pain in the bum since I got it.
Everytime at the same hight, maybe ur printer is just broken, does another one had similar issues?
I feel like I'm in the same mindset as a lot of people who started out on Ender's. A friend of mine talked me into trying 3D printing, and MicroCenter had the deal where new customers could get an Ender 3 Pro for $99. He was a "new customer", so I used his info to buy one when we were there one day. Was fun at first..... then kept getting adhesion issues... bed leveling issues. Printed a few mods for the printer just because... but took some time to come out right. About a year later (maybe) I got an Ender 3 S1 Pro. Same thing... printed a mod or a few for it, printed some other little stuff here and there, eventually got the Creality Pad to run Klipper, which greatly increased the print speed. But still had to fight with bed leveling (which was HORRIFFIC with the standard built-in screen) on what seemed like a fairly regular basis. I got silicon hard mounts for it which helped stop it from going out of level as much, but it was still an Ender.
I feel like if I hadn't said hell with it one day and decided to splurge and buy a Bambu P1P, I probably would have given up 3D printing by now. But.... several months after buying the P1P, I bought an X1C. I even started designing my own little crap in Fusion to print for around the house or for at work to make organizing the office a little nicer. Now..... I'm just hoping Bambu's next flagship printer will be a larger format than 256x256x256.
I see lots and lots of people that, like you, complain about the fact that they needed to re-level the bed every few prints on their Ender 3.
I have an Ender 3 Pro, and was basically only sometimes adjusting a bit the level when the skirt was printing every few months. (on the stock springs). I'm guessing it comes down to people pushing on the bed when taking their prints off of it ?
I just got.a second ender 3 pro (used) for a project, and I got it to printing quite quickly too, just tightened a few screws, leveled the bed and off I was.
I'm sure a bambu labs printer is a much better and fancier machine, but it's not quite comparable when you see the price difference.
Kinda sad that back then those printer were cheap, and now even the Ender 3 V3 is much more expensive than what his predecessors were
@@lucwal67 Your's is the exception, for most people (I was forced to use a couple of those demon's childs in work) is the most miserable 3D printing experience of their lifes.
@@lucwal67i still use my ender 3 or should i say, what's left of it after all the upgrade/mods. Taught me everything i know.
Im more on the idea that a printer is a tool, not an appliance. Tools require maintenance and i enjoy the maintenance/problem solving.
I have an ender 3 in my closet that I am saving for spare parts maybe one day. Worked ok for a week or so. I say ok because I always had to make sure the print was going to stick on the first layer. But after a while, I started getting spaghetti piles. So I ended up throwing it out the back door on the concrete patio. I picked it up later and put it in the closet because it has stepper motors on it that may be useful one day on a project.
Kind of ruined the 3d printer thing for me.
The ender is on sale up here on canada for as cheap as 179.99cdn which is about 130usd.
This is a mix between the Sovol sv06 and the comgrow t300. I love my sv06 plus
Thanks for a truthful review
At first I was thinking "well obviously the a1 is much older and it's gotten updates it needs....but it's not, it's pretty close to the same release date.
That being said, I recently got a v3 plus and it's printed fine so far (did have a software update). but i've printed at full speed and some at low speeds to test quality. No issues so far.(minus the stupid creality cloud printing the full 'mat' of skirting by default).
I actually had a position error twice and just re-sliced it and it worked, once was with a benchy so it leads me to the same conclusion that it's software related.
I'm making a semi-custom profile in other slicers to see what can be tweaked, but i've already had bad experiences w/ the creality slicer so I only got it because there's no default profile in orca/cura.
I am potentially going to grab a k1 max or maybe a k2, but i'll wait a few months after release to gauge if it's worth the upgrade.
I've heard about slicer issues on other videos for this printer. It's a few months later now, and I'm wondering if it's still an issue...
I'd be curious to see how it would fare with PrusaSlicer or OrcaSlicer. I'm sure there are decent profiles for it out there. That could potentially eliminate any issues due to software.
the creality slicer is a very old version of cura i believe. up to date cura, prusa, or even bambu studio would probably do a lot better
This video reflects my feelings for the most part. I love tinkering, figuring out how something works, making it work better, but at some point my 3D printer is just part of the process for another project. It should not become a project in itself unless I make it.
I went from an Anycubic Vyper to the Bambu X1-C, which made me a Bambu fanboy in less than 24 hours. I really liked my Vyper, but it's hilarious to watch how anemic it looks while printing next to the X1-C. I also didn't like Bambu studio compared to Cura at first, but now my opinion has totally inverted. At this point, Creality has a long way to come in order to stay competitive in my book.
Tbh same
My first printer was a giant bed slinger from this one noname brand and it was absolute trash - layer shifts, a lot of spaghetti, motors reversed after software reset I did to get it's version of bl touch working, the bl touch calibration not levelling the bed, filament feeders constantly breaking and slipping, the extruder jamming all the time unfixably etc.
And then I decided to get a bambu lab printer.
And it just prints, rarely fails and works. And this is coming from a linux main who tinkers with stuff all the time, just 3d printers are annoying to screw with
The problem with the ender 3 is that I don't want to need to customize a printer I want it to come with the best stuff on it from the start. It shouldn't change the price as much as they try to charge for the upgraded version though.
I have a Ender 5 Plus and its a giant paper weight after fitting a duff BTT E3v3 board and screen. Ive tried, the shop tried and still it buries the nozzle into the bed as it forgets where its nozzle is at random times destroying nozzles and pei beds quicker than you can hit stop. I do like Creality though (even though they sent the wrong silent board when i went that way.) Their Efit extruder and spider hotend saved my Kingroon KP3S. I recommend that upgrade.
The random spaghetti was an issue i ran into with the e3 s1. It would just get to a random point in the print and skip a layer in the gcode for no reason. I also thought it was the software but still ran into the same issue with other slicers. Also switched to using kepler, same issue. Never could figure out the cause. Switched to the p1s and never looked back.
Knock on wood, I've had my V2 for I think going on 3 years now and I've done zero tinkering with it. The only issue I have with it, which has me in the market for a new 3d printer, is the print speed. 50mm/s just doesn't cut it on a big print. Started printing terrain for table top and stopped really quick when I realized 1 piece of terrain is 3 or 4 parts, and each part will take around 48 hours to print.
That being said about having no issues with my V2, I'm still leaning toward a Bambu. The issue though, is that the V3 is just at such a good price point for those print speeds. If I wanted to go with a Prusa or Bambu with that build plate size, I'd be paying more than double.
My Ender 5 printed fantastic models, when it printed, but it finished about 1 in 20 prints without error which is awful. The design was flawed from the start. I spent so much time trying to improve that printer to make it reliable but in the end, I sacked it and bought an Ender 3 S1 which has been faultless. I was looking at upgrading again to a bambu labs P1P or X1C but until my S1 fails or is printing 24/7 I don't "need" faster speeds or greater reliability.
Although I do love to tinker, when the printer decides when you have to it's a problem. Had 2 Ender3's the orig & the v2, & like you said when it printed w/o mistakes it was great, but the time lost & cost of things failing all the time- I finally said enough was enough. I have used some others too but not a Bambu Lab. I Replaced it with an Elegoo Neptune. It's like night & day- been printing virtually non-stop, for almost a yr & a half. I had 3 errors, all 3 were my fault, & their fantastic tech support had me up in running in minutes. The one time something actually broke bad, they AIR-SHIPPED a replacement part that was @ my door in under 14 hrs. They have an entire YT channel of most any problem you might have for general use. It just works, & more importantly- it works when you want it to.
How would you compare the A1 mini to the A1?
Wow, the jam is unfortunate. I've been running my Prusa Mk3 since 2017 and have only had to perform a cold pull to clear a jam once. Ever.
Those problems seem to be an slicer issue with this printer. I bought one yesterday, yes YESTERDAY. Obviously i still haven't used it enough, but I printed a sink caddy 15cm tall with no issues. I'm using creality slicer until the others have a profile for this printer. I'll be testing OrcaSlicer too
Nice prints everyone
You should try orca, because i have a K1 and I have never had ANY of these problems. Creality slicer cura but outdated, never use creality slicer
User error, first you throw star wars model at 600mm/s that will fail at that speed, gunk the printer with melted filament and most likley stuck your leveling sensor, then you go to easy stuff that will not print becasue you made double mess last night. Creality printers are amaizing at their price point, 300$ vs 900 for etg Prusa, will the print job be 300% better on prusa? No, maybe 20% better. Creality is the best entry level printer you can get for the money, absolute best bang for the buck, are there better printers? YES, are there better printers for the money? Not really
Hey man, I am looking into this printer and this review kinda got me tweeking a little bit. I don't know jack shit on this topic and I am obviously trying to learn a bit more now. Would this still be a good buy?
My options I am looking at is
Ender 3 NEO
Ender 3v3
Ender 3v3 KE
Are these good? I am a little bit of a tech enthusiast, and I am a fast learner. I like to tinker so I don't mind that.
Thank you! I was about to buy one (Emphasis on was)
I have a V1 Ender 3 for about two years, it's my only printer and I absolutely hate it. The homing of a Z axis works so bad that I have to adjust babystep Z literally every print and than chek if the first layer sticks to the bed. Sometimes I start a print but while homing one of the axis doesn't recognize it's zero position and motor just keeps turning trying to go into negative numbers. I'm always so angry doing anything with that printer.
What slicer and printer profile did you use? Oh, you said creality slicer. You should try it with orca slicer and use a better profile to see how it does as a comparison
I fully understand where you are coming from, I just got my P1S with AMS yesterday as my replacement for my OG ender 3 and I have pumped out 12 prints already, 10 cardboard spool rings and my first 2 multi color prints, I can't express just how insainly wonderful it feels being able to just hit print and have everything work.
it was worth every cent so far
But I am NOT throwing out my ender 3, I do like tinkering, it's just that that printer was too much tinkering. I have plans to make it a PET bottle filiment maker! (CNC Kitchen has a video on it)
What slicing software did you use?
Edit: OK you used creality. Wonder if you used another slicer software if it'd help.
it does. orcaslicer produces significantly better prints for me.
Got an Ender 3 Max Neo that arrived 2 weeks ago. First print was the calibration cube and it printed 75%... Yeah, I wasn't happy about that. Following day I adjusted my printing temp and got a smooth print. Ever since I've moved on to a different slicing software cuz in all honesty, there are no options in Creality's software for adjustments or anything that seemed obvious to me at the time to make my life easier. Also their supports are horrendous as I had issues removing it from my prints, wasting even more filament than necessary due to breaking parts because of the finer details and intricacies of prints. I've been using Orca slicer on Linux, and haven't had issues since, except for a few prints not adhering to the bed, but there I messed up, so for me the experience with my Ender 3 Max Neo has been working as expected. For a beginner it's been quite a good experience despite the fears I initially had. But again, don't use Creality's slicer, it's not worth it
GIVE ME THE ENDER 7!!!! I WILL SHOW YOU HOW TO USE IT PROPERLY!!!!
I think，the big problem is the original slicer. Mybe try another one .just like orca\ prusa or bamboo Slicer .Maybe have another story.
I learned to print on an OG ender 3 with an 8-bit main board. I still use it to this day. I'm going to get an A1 mini. Looks like a good quality printer.
Also, not a fan of Creality. I bought a Creality brand enclosure for my laser engraver and compared to a generic enclosure for my resin printer, it sucks. The bottom is open. It's for a LASER ENGRAVER? WTH?
I attempted to buy an Ender 3 v3 the other day... had an issue that customer support didn't help with during purchasing it XD maybe that was a sign of some kind
I got my Ender 3 max a few years ago, and I learned to dislike the brand, too. One red flag is that they don't release firmware updates after a year or so.
I also tried their filaments lately because it was inexpensive, but it kept jamming for no obvious reason: I swapped out for Eelego filament, and it printed without issues again.