Reason why I bought a 3rd party warranty! 2 Years of ownership, only issue I had was the starter kept going in and out go it replaced and she runs like a dream!
The cadillac dealership is happy to work on a cadillac. $1,400 to change a brake hose, not even the line. Another $400 to change a headlight bulb! I changed all this stuff myself, along with every spark plug, belt, and filter for about $200
I have a 2007 cts 2.8L and I have a love-hate relationship with it. After almost 6 years of fixing one thing after another I've come to learn a lot about this car. First problem was the ignition coils. I recommend replacing them all at once, save yourself the trouble. Last year I had to have the timing chains replaced, that alone cost me $1500 but had to do it to get it to pass smog test. It's been running great ever since. But now there is a clicking sound near the battery, and from what was shown as the first problem in this video I now know what it is. So 3 out of 5 for me. I always check my oil levels because it does burn through oil (needs valve covers replaced) but I also change the oil every 3k miles now since the mileage is 152k. You just have to take care of this car, and have money put away to fix whatever needs to be replaced. My car is almost 14 yes old, parts don't last forever.
I have an 04 CTS 3.6, similarly the first thing I had to do was the coils, then a belt broke so I replaced every plug, coil, belt, and fluid. Then my converters, then a rear end (don't do donuts it doesnt like that) but its been a reliable car for how much I drive it, currently sitting at 207,000 miles
@@loganwork7024 same here been across country multiple times & replaced almost everything in this car but trans and diff over the years , reliable car when doing highway driving though!
I had the '03 CTS with the 3.2 engine. One day, at 65 MPH on the freeway I heard a loud clunk, followed by hard shifting. Then the check engine light came on. Then it stalled. Got the "crank no start" issue that was mentioned in the video and multiple fault codes, I cant even remember them all it was so many. Took it to the dealer several times over the course of a month, and they determined that the ECM/PCM was losing connection. They fixed that and no more issues...until the valve cover gaskets kept going bad and dropping oil everywhere, every single year. That thing was a money pit on wheels.
I lost compression when the car sat for over 2 months. The local car shop said it was a head job. 6 months later (car sat again for a couple of months), I had the same issue. The care cranks, but no compression. It acted as if the starter solenoid was not engaging the flywheel (but it was). I sent the car back to the same shop, where they sprayed lubricant into the cylinder heads via spark plug ports and car started right up. 6 months later, I had same issue, this time I sprayed lubrican in the cylinder heads and car started right up. I changed oil and started using the OEM recomended lubricant Mobile 5W-20 and haven't had any issues since.
Top 5 problems I've had: 1) diffriential went bed 2) catalytic converters want to come lose 3) if everything isn't perfect it probably won't start 4) slow oil and break fluid leak 5) dealing with cadillac reps
2 other common issues : 6) Transmission cooler lines quick disconnect to radiator blow out 7) Torque Converter (Magnetic clutch) I've got a 05 CTS 3.6 and have had several of the common issues. a) No start - bad ECM b) former owner had had thermostat/water pump c) PVC holes too small and create positive crank case pressure (Neg and NO is ok.)
The ecm also it will get your key stuck in the ignition, quick fix, turn key to on position (don’t crank the car just put it in the on position) leave the driver door open , pull the ecm fuse make sure it’s not blown ,put it back in ,take it back out 2 times , crank the car up and it will release your key and clear the security light and traction control light.
does not work for me. i have to unhook the battery, both neg and pos, for 20 minutes... 19 doesn't cut it. connect the battery after the full 20 and it cranks right up.
I've got a 03 3.6 l where the timing belt I bought the car with 97,000 on it at the timing belt replaced the technician did not set the tension the right it jumped one tooth on the exhaust and one tooth on the intake and Below 1500 RPM 1 3 and 5 misfire constantly I took it back apart redid the belt and adjusted the tensioner in the car runs fine
I always recommend people to lease new Cadillacs and dont bother buying new to keep long term or even buying pre-owned once its past the warranty period. Cadillac makes good looking cars that are fun to drive but the long term reliability and durability of materials is just not there.
I drive a 2005 cadillac cts, I recently had to change the Rear Trans mount. I was never able to find a video on youtube to find the problem but if anyone has that really bad vibration coming from the center council check that trans mount.
Yes, both. One going bad will cause the other one to fail if you continue to drive it. The bushing rubber is at that age where the elasticity is gone and that vibration under acceleration is just carving whatever rubber is left in the bushing sleeves right outta there. If you're replacing one you should go ahead and do the other while you have it taken apart because if it's not bad now and it's an original part... You'll be pulling it all apart again very soon to do it the other one. When the carrier bearing goes it puts huge stresses on the fore diff mount bush. Just do both.
I had an 07 CTS. Got her pretty cheap at 60k miles. Went through the heating sensor, stater, replaced the wiper fluid systems and coolant hoses after the plastic rotted, and also replaced the cylanders after a misfire bent one. Engine blew the head gasket at 108k miles. Gave up on her after that. Really fun,cheap, and comfortable car. However, they require a large amount of maintainence.
I actually own both base model 3.6 and the LS6 but yeah for base model i had the purge valve problem and No start problem ECM but so far so good im at 179,xxx still running strong
159K on 2005 3.6 just changed PCM- I caught it in time. Car read misfire on cylinder 5 checked spark plug it’s clean. The electricity would flick on and off in cabin as well as headlights. $360 for pcm $100 to install also you need to reprogram keys after replacing PCM. Good video thanks for the info
And the brake throttle position sensors (I think is what they're called) My mechanic had to fix mine never heard of them but it fixed my abs brake and traction control light
Thank you I had three of those problems since I bought car with 60,000 miles, now 4 years later 100,000. The thermostat is a major pain in butt to change but doable.
I just did my friends thermostat 139K if I knew where it was located before I bought it for her I would have walked away but parts on these cars r very durable like you said
I bought one cpl years ago and im now getting a message on my screen in car to service electrical system soon. Probably alternator but who knows? I'll have to get it on a machine for the code I guess.
07 CTS, 2.8L: I had 2 issues. 1) main 12v cable from batt to starter shorted to exhuast manifold. Symptoms were instrument panel would reboot while driving. 2) If I did not use mobile 5w-20 eng oil I would have compression issues if the car sat too long with out starting. Car would crank, but not start. It would act like the starter not engaging the flywheel.
My wife has been having a heck of a time with her 05 I've put plugs in it , coils in it and now they are saying injectors and it's driving me crazy, I can do the work but I can't afford the parts but the crazy thing is I believe that the gas cap fits loosely so I'll have to look into that.
2005 CTS 3.6 Auto; after 6 years, 80k miles- Evap purge, rear differential bushing, high oil consumption, transmission rear main seal, sunroof switch, center brake light, water pump
Check your valve cover gaskets if u have misfires usually due to this your intake gaskets , spark plugs , and coil packs will need to be replaced smh 🤦 going thru it with my 03 3.2 getting it on road for the ls2
@@_Chicagosfinest I experienced the "oil using thing" when we drove my 05 CTS years ago on a road trip. So, yeah, just cuz it WASN'T a high mileage car? THAT doesn't make it like a Toyota or something. Lol. Yeah, my older know it all brother dogs on my 05 CTS V6 calling em ALL "oilers" cuz a couple similar articles he read OR sumthin but...? I like it. 😎 Bought in 2011 with 65,000 miles, NOW has 95,000. New tune up, plugs, original brake pads could pass for new. Good for another 100,00 miles 😏
As an owner of a first gen cts for over a year now, I can tell you around 200,000 you'll have a few problems. I had to replace my rear end, catalytic converters, a new brake master cylinder and installed an aftermarket transmission radiator because the connector to the stock radiator sucks. I also need a cv axle, and a heating element for the heated seats, but its been a great little car I've put about 18,000 miles on it in a year and I dont drive it easy
I had the 2005 cts 3.6 V6. Before I got rid of it, if I got on the gas under 30mph it would keep jerking real bad, but above 30mph it would just take off like nothing was wrong. What could have caused that? Catalytic converter? Someone once said that could have been it but I wasn't sure.
Long as ya DON'T plan on taking it out on the road at ALL when it's snowed just a bit, OR any other cold wintery mix conditions? It's ALL good (knocking on wood!) 2005 CTS V6 bought in 2011 with 65,000 miles NOW 95,000 miles. Factory brake pads could almost pass for new. 😏 I dig it. But yeah, I TOO noticed that you BETTER carry couple/few quarts of OIL IF going on ANY longer than normal "road trips." I HAVE heard they are "oilers." 🤔😬
One of the most common problems is differential bushing rubber rotting out and causing clunking noise when shifting gears or on/ off accelerator. Replaced mine with polyurethane one from revshift 35,000 miles ago. Now I need all bushings and mounts replaced. The CTS-Vs have too much power for the differential and will eventually grenade it unless a granny driver never gets on it. I love these cars but the differential is the weakest link
Same with me. My 05 3.6 has 190000 mi on it and it only needed this as well as a new driveshaft. That’s it. Things drives insanely clean besides some random semi weird gear shifts. Anything I need to look for specifically?
On my 06 CTS, I’ve replaced the entire engine 3.6, ECM, electric panel box,… worst one I’ve been putting off is the rear differential bush mount which is a $30 part that requires $1500 in labor. Great placement GM
I just finished my driveshaft support carrier bearing which was in really bad shape.. it was basically a skeleton cage with no bushing left. As a result I also had to replace the forward differential bushing which was hollowed out from the driveshaft banging around. The job was fairly simple once I took the time to just get it done. Sticking points... 1. Driving the differential bushing out of it's sleeve. I was banging on it on and off for a whole day and spraying it with blaster every time I walked by it before it finally budged like a millimeter. Then.... Another hour of banging and spraying until I finally lost patience and grabbed my air saw and cut three relief grooves the full length and depth of the sleeve (bushing just fell out and left the sleeve flush in the opening.) Finally it let go and the new one wouldn't start. Can't heat up the diff as the plastic gas tank resides like one inch from the target, so... No. Bad idea. I ended up hitting the new part with a wire wheel and then polished it on the rag wheel, greased it and wire wheeled the diff opening and greased it and seated the part successfully. 2. Mark the driveshaft AT BOTH ENDS WITH PAINT MARKERS!!! my sharpie marks had rubbed off by the time the driveshaft was going back in and, let me tell you... Once you miss the splines once and booger the leading edge.... I was filing and test fitting and marking and filing and after a couple of days of cursing and sweating it finally went back together. Mark it at both ends!!! 3. Mark the diff input shaft, the rag bushing and the driveshaft, then again at the u joint on both shafts, then again on the front shaft and at the transmission output shaft. You're thinking, "I won't be separating the front shaft....." Yeah, shut up. It just sorta fell out while positioning it to reinstall the diff. Just save yourself a headache and mark everything. Other than the days I wasted learning what not to do the actual work was not terribly difficult. Learn from my mistakes and tackle it yourself! Good luck.
Running rough, I changed the coils and plugs myself, not a easy job. Problem solved, now I have a rear wheel that sounds like a snow tire. I just bought a rear bearing assembly. Hopefully it will solve the noise problem.
Hello i have a 2007 CTS, just like the one in this video and every time i put the car in drive i can hear and feel the differential kick hard , does that mean the differential is bad ? Or could it be something else ? Please help .
M’y oil change is due tommorow, and the car is running very well. Check engine light pop today and it’s saying p0021. My car only have 77000 km. It’s a cts 2007 v6 2,8L could it be because of my oil?
I have an 03 cts 3.2l I've heard they have a common problem with the pcv system clogging up. I believe this is why my valve gasket keeps blowing. How do I fix this? Thanks
Thanks for your reply. I did have a tight steering wheel. Often locked up on me. All power steering fluid gone. Nobody ever checked it I'm sure due to where opening is located under cover under hood. One mechanic didn't know where it was located until i told him. (I found in manual). Had to have the power steering line replaced. Cost me about $600. Dealership mechanics don't always check fluids!
Hi I have a 2005 cts 3.6L, The Fuel pump is not getting power I checked the fuse and Relay they are good and I don't think its the fuel pump because its working I've tried two different Pumps both work also I changed the fuel pump electrical connector. once i turn the key to the on position the fuel pump will not come on and the car keep cranking
Yes ran in the the thermostat problem. Got it so can access but the black coolant tube that runs alongside motor to lower side of radiator won’t move. Makes it impossible to set thermostat housing appropriately in place and to remove. .???? Jim
2003 Cadillac CTS code: P0700 (MIL Request) has new throttle body. It also tells me to change the oil. Is it possible the car is acting up due to oil low oil?
The ECM computer is a issue. It can cause a misfire and need to be replaced. I have a power bleed in my electrical system. If my cts sits for 3 days, it will be dead.
Love my 2007 cts I have hade cylinder 5 and 6 misfire in the past 1-2 years that just took 1 simple spark plug/coil. The blinkers do also only work sometimes though think that’s just little module thing. But runs good for 175k miles on it
We have a 05 Cadillac CTS with a no crank no start. The battery isn't dead but when you go to crank it the dashboard lights all go out and nothing happens. when we let it sit for a few hours or whatever. later it will start. sometimes you might get lucky and it will start for a few day and other times it wont.
I have a 06 CTS I come home to change my breaks and put new headlights in and went to start it and had no power interior lights come on but nothing else.and key got stuck in ignition.battery is good alternator is good no blown fuses new ignition switch can someone help me out on what else to do please
+Lucky Thomas We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
My father has an 03 CTS with the Caterra v6 manual fwd. It was not the best engine ive worked on n kinda frustrating but good one. A big problem with those is where the factory did the power steering lines running from drivers side to running over to the passenger side then back to the drivers under the oil pan and literally a couple inches from the return pressure line and those aluminum lines are not the the sturdiest so if uve got one be careful with it because they've discontinued those specific parts for that specific engine in the 03 Manual version. If u can somehow find the steering line parts for those and need to replace it, just loosen lower engine mount bolts super simple and take off upper bolts so u can lift engine with the floor jack but it doesnt need to be jacked up too far just enough for some room. Take the engine and tilt it to the passenger and get something u can use to hold the engine tilted to the passenger side as best u can and u will have enough room to get in there and ur gonna need a stubby wrench set with the other tools needed. If u dont do those steps it will be difficult and I know it sounds like alot, but its truly simple to get the best room and angle to change. Hope this helps too everyone. Keep up the awesome videos guys im watching all of em and still getting knowledge i wasnt aware of.
I had misfire in #2 replaced injector and fixed but now misfire #6. I believe it to be vacuum leak but cannot pin it down specifically. Spray carb cleaner on driver side top and clears up. Replaced orings for lines to plenum because they were not tight, replaced plenum gasket but no luck. Maybe lower intake gasket but I broke an intake bolt putting it back together, torque wrench set at 17 lbs but never clicked. Anyway I’m about to take it in to let a pro fix the vacuum leak and now the broken bolt. I’ve changed 2 other injector on this car and no problem, the good ol days
Make sure you reset your torque ranch to 0 every time you use it otherwise the Spring inside will stretch and not give you a correct reading.. Ask me how I know. This is unless you have a digital wine or you don't need to do that.
Personally. I had to replace the timing chain at 140k miles. The transmission fluid pan seals needed replacement. At same time. ECM needed to be replaced at 120k miles and again at 180k. The car wouldn't start and key light 🔐 was on..
I just recently bought a 2007 BTS and I have definitely experienced a slow start issues and I've been very concerned about the all I'm definitely going to double-check the all before leaving this video was extremely helpful thank you
06 cats I bought right after high school. Right off the bat when I took it home. Whenever I put gas. It seems it drowns the engine since I had to put the gas pedal down every time I fill up even just 10$ worth of gas. I had to fix the alternator which was expected since it had 95K miles. I put a new water pump on it. Just recently replaced the radiator. And my battery just died when I bought it at 2018. My radio just went out. I have no audio. And for some reason. A few years back I had to replace my high beams 3 TIMES!!! I love how this car looks. But lol man this car needs lots of maintenance. I still have to change my rear diff bushing since it decides to kicked when I push the gas a little hard. When I say a little I mean just 3K RPM. Not sure whether to get rid of this and get a new Cadillac. Or fix this up some more
Hello was wondering if you could help I replaced my computer on my 2004 cts 3.6L did all the programming to read the my keys my engine turns over and wants to start but doesn’t . What do you think is my problem
I parked my 2006 CTS. It had been running fine. Then the next day, it wouldn’t start. It cranks, but no start. What are the chances the timing belt is the issue? I sprayed starting fluid into the manifold but it would not fire. Crankshaft position sensor?
I've got a 2003 Cadillac CTS with 170,000 miles. P0121 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor. I'm thinking it's not the throttle body but rather the gas pedal that's crapped out. The throttle body is from ACDelco and was installed new about a year ago.
Hi, I've got a 2007 2.8L, I've had to replace crank sensor, timing chain, spark plugs and coils. But its got another peculiar problem, my windshield wipers aren't working properly, they randomly come on without prompting, and it won't turn off most of the time.
Hey man, its a control unit attached to your wiper transmission under the cowel. If you change it yourself just take your time and dont break anything taking ut apart. So long as you do that and pit the wiper arms in the right place when its all together you will be fine. But DO NOT WAIT! It will go to permanent on full speed when it full breaks. I should have recorded the work and posted it. The part is wiper motor pulse board. I find the oem motor to be very good so changing this part instead of the whole thing also insures allignment so long as its already not out of allignment.
Ahh, ghost wipers. Had the same issue when I got the car. Turns out the rubber gasket on the wiper motor assembly dries up and allows moisture in it, which causes it to short out. I bet you notice this more after you get some rain. This was a few years (and many other repairs) ago, but I'm pretty sure I replaced the wiper motor, maybe just the cover where the gasket is seated. One thing I do remember is buying a torx set, just for this job! Cadillac, the gift that keeps on giving!
I just changed Cadillac transmission , battery 🔋 and it was running fine but today when I went to start my car it not tuning on ? Solution please 2nd problem
Our 2005 CTS at the first startup most days will fire up fine and then within 3-5 seconds will stutter and shake for a second or two but then will recover and run fine afterward. Could it be the MAF sensor needs cleaning?
I am going insane dealing with my 07cts 3.6 the no crank no start issue is crazy I've been to the dealership twice now first they said it was an aftermarket remote start that needed removed and a new wiring harness so I did that and the same problem returned before I even put 100 miles on it waiting to hear from the dealership again
Hey 1A, I have an 06 CTS 2.8 and while driving it, the car completely stalled. Before this happened I had an evap leak that wasn't causing issues but now I have 6 cylinder misfires and an engine knock sensor. Any ideas? I know fuel pump is fine.
+Rachel Tharrington Here are a few symptoms or warning signs that alert you to a potential problem brewing with your steering rack. Very tight steering wheel. ... Leaking power steering fluid. ... Grinding noise when steering. ... Burning oil smell.
2006 Cad CTS..wipers came on anytime. Had switch replaced. Fluid motor works, but comes on every time wipers are on. Mechanic says motor needs to be replaced. Why? Could it need a relay replaced? What is your opinion.
my headlights work but one of them is dim regularly and when I flick my high beams it doesn't have nothin at all I switched the light bulb a couple times it has to be some other issue I don't know
Hi. I have a CTS Model 2003 2.6L (2/6) and the problem: when connecting the fuel paddle then engine won't start, when disconnect engine will start. Can you help please?
I have a problem I don’t know why when I’m about to start my car I use the heard the sound of the belts it’s stop doing it and also my radio not working
Yes I've got questions weird. I really need some help oh, I've got a 2004 CTS and the car has been sitting for probably five years. I pulled the dipstick to check the oil and it look like a burgundy color. Almost like a burnt oil but it's not black. So anyway when it fired up for the first time in many years. It started knocking and it sounded really bad. I put a dollar bill up against the exhaust pipe and it sucked the dollar bill up against the exhaust pipe. It's also smoking. What could this be? Do you think the engine is shot?
My thermostat has been stuck open for a while. I brought it in and they told me the thermostat is under the manifold and it’s gonna cost $800 to replace. I have a 2005 CTS 3.6ltr Are they wrong?
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What a place to put the Thermostat!
I got a problem with my brake light when I push the brake light don’t work but I got running lights
Hi am having a prombelm with my Cadillac CTU 2003 sometimes driving on my way and it just went off after 5 minutes it stard again
@@AM-hg9xh i have that problem also .... have you fixed it yet?
Hey, guys. I do have another problem with my vehicle. It is the 2.8 litre engine and it sounds like a deisel engine. What could it be
My 04 cts has 295,000 miles n I've only changed the starter, alternator n evap purger. Love it .,
What engine does your have the 3.2 or 3.6?
@@issacflores7588 guess they don't know there engine size,wow.u think with the mileage they know....rite?
Reason why I bought a 3rd party warranty! 2 Years of ownership, only issue I had was the starter kept going in and out go it replaced and she runs like a dream!
I always say, "Automotive engineers should be required to work on everything they design into their vehicles."
The cadillac dealership is happy to work on a cadillac. $1,400 to change a brake hose, not even the line. Another $400 to change a headlight bulb! I changed all this stuff myself, along with every spark plug, belt, and filter for about $200
They should first be tried in court for making things to break after a certain amount of hours. Programmed obsolescence.
I have a 2007 cts 2.8L and I have a love-hate relationship with it. After almost 6 years of fixing one thing after another I've come to learn a lot about this car. First problem was the ignition coils. I recommend replacing them all at once, save yourself the trouble. Last year I had to have the timing chains replaced, that alone cost me $1500 but had to do it to get it to pass smog test. It's been running great ever since. But now there is a clicking sound near the battery, and from what was shown as the first problem in this video I now know what it is. So 3 out of 5 for me. I always check my oil levels because it does burn through oil (needs valve covers replaced) but I also change the oil every 3k miles now since the mileage is 152k. You just have to take care of this car, and have money put away to fix whatever needs to be replaced. My car is almost 14 yes old, parts don't last forever.
+Leona Villa Thanks for the feedback!
They look so nice so it's worth it. Also, driving 80 90 on the freeways with these cars is smooth sailings. They have so much steering control.
I have an 04 CTS 3.6, similarly the first thing I had to do was the coils, then a belt broke so I replaced every plug, coil, belt, and fluid. Then my converters, then a rear end (don't do donuts it doesnt like that) but its been a reliable car for how much I drive it, currently sitting at 207,000 miles
@@loganwork7024 same here been across country multiple times & replaced almost everything in this car but trans and diff over the years , reliable car when doing highway driving though!
I had the '03 CTS with the 3.2 engine. One day, at 65 MPH on the freeway I heard a loud clunk, followed by hard shifting. Then the check engine light came on. Then it stalled. Got the "crank no start" issue that was mentioned in the video and multiple fault codes, I cant even remember them all it was so many. Took it to the dealer several times over the course of a month, and they determined that the ECM/PCM was losing connection. They fixed that and no more issues...until the valve cover gaskets kept going bad and dropping oil everywhere, every single year. That thing was a money pit on wheels.
I lost compression when the car sat for over 2 months. The local car shop said it was a head job. 6 months later (car sat again for a couple of months), I had the same issue. The care cranks, but no compression. It acted as if the starter solenoid was not engaging the flywheel (but it was). I sent the car back to the same shop, where they sprayed lubricant into the cylinder heads via spark plug ports and car started right up. 6 months later, I had same issue, this time I sprayed lubrican in the cylinder heads and car started right up. I changed oil and started using the OEM recomended lubricant Mobile 5W-20 and haven't had any issues since.
Top 5 problems I've had:
1) diffriential went bed
2) catalytic converters want to come lose
3) if everything isn't perfect it probably won't start
4) slow oil and break fluid leak
5) dealing with cadillac reps
2 other common issues :
6) Transmission cooler lines quick disconnect to radiator blow out
7) Torque Converter (Magnetic clutch)
I've got a 05 CTS 3.6 and have had several of the common issues. a) No start - bad ECM b) former owner had had thermostat/water pump c) PVC holes too small and create positive crank case pressure (Neg and NO is ok.)
The ecm also it will get your key stuck in the ignition, quick fix, turn key to on position (don’t crank the car just put it in the on position) leave the driver door open , pull the ecm fuse make sure it’s not blown ,put it back in ,take it back out 2 times , crank the car up and it will release your key and clear the security light and traction control light.
does not work for me. i have to unhook the battery, both neg and pos, for 20 minutes... 19 doesn't cut it. connect the battery after the full 20 and it cranks right up.
Throttle Body / Throttle Position sensor issues are rampant with this model.
And as everyone else is mentioning, ECM as well.
I've got a 03 3.6 l where the timing belt I bought the car with 97,000 on it at the timing belt replaced the technician did not set the tension the right it jumped one tooth on the exhaust and one tooth on the intake and Below 1500 RPM 1 3 and 5 misfire constantly I took it back apart redid the belt and adjusted the tensioner in the car runs fine
Literally have all of these issues but the timing chain . Only thing I need to change now is the cam shaft sensor . Fixed everything else
I always recommend people to lease new Cadillacs and dont bother buying new to keep long term or even buying pre-owned once its past the warranty period. Cadillac makes good looking cars that are fun to drive but the long term reliability and durability of materials is just not there.
True, except Toyota or Honda
I drive a 2005 cadillac cts, I recently had to change the Rear Trans mount. I was never able to find a video on youtube to find the problem but if anyone has that really bad vibration coming from the center council check that trans mount.
Good to know. I just got a 2006 3.6 and the gear shifter does seem to dance around a little. I'll have to keep my eye on it.
I have 2003 Cadillac cts I changed the driveshaft center support bearing. Same vibration from center gear selector.
Yes, both. One going bad will cause the other one to fail if you continue to drive it. The bushing rubber is at that age where the elasticity is gone and that vibration under acceleration is just carving whatever rubber is left in the bushing sleeves right outta there. If you're replacing one you should go ahead and do the other while you have it taken apart because if it's not bad now and it's an original part... You'll be pulling it all apart again very soon to do it the other one. When the carrier bearing goes it puts huge stresses on the fore diff mount bush. Just do both.
You forgot to mention about the ECMS how they often go bad!
I had an 07 CTS. Got her pretty cheap at 60k miles. Went through the heating sensor, stater, replaced the wiper fluid systems and coolant hoses after the plastic rotted, and also replaced the cylanders after a misfire bent one. Engine blew the head gasket at 108k miles. Gave up on her after that.
Really fun,cheap, and comfortable car. However, they require a large amount of maintainence.
+Rob R Thanks for the feedback!
I actually own both base model 3.6 and the LS6 but yeah for base model i had the purge valve problem and No start problem ECM but so far so good im at 179,xxx still running strong
159K on 2005 3.6 just changed PCM- I caught it in time. Car read misfire on cylinder 5 checked spark plug it’s clean. The electricity would flick on and off in cabin as well as headlights. $360 for pcm $100 to install also you need to reprogram keys after replacing PCM. Good video thanks for the info
+Brandon Thompson Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Reprogramming keys is easy. I did myself on my 2003 CTS
@@erniecarrasco9107 how did you program the ecm to work on your 2003 cts
One common one you missed is the steering wheel position sensors that like to fail around 80k miles
And the brake throttle position sensors (I think is what they're called) My mechanic had to fix mine never heard of them but it fixed my abs brake and traction control light
Just replaced one in my 03' with around 150k
Thank you I had three of those problems since I bought car with 60,000 miles, now 4 years later 100,000. The thermostat is a major pain in butt to change but doable.
+Doug Matteo Thanks for checking us out!
I just did my friends thermostat 139K if I knew where it was located before I bought it for her I would have walked away but parts on these cars r very durable like you said
I appreciate it. I just brought an 07' CTS! 3.6 Liter
+Second Opinion Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Big mistake !
How has it been running and how many miles is on it?
I bought one cpl years ago and im now getting a message on my screen in car to service electrical system soon. Probably alternator but who knows? I'll have to get it on a machine for the code I guess.
Mine is 06 3.6 98 thousand miles literally never had one problem ever. I cherish my cts
My third brake light went on my 2006 Cadillac cts 2.8lt but it is worth it this car is great.
07 CTS, 2.8L: I had 2 issues. 1) main 12v cable from batt to starter shorted to exhuast manifold. Symptoms were instrument panel would reboot while driving. 2) If I did not use mobile 5w-20 eng oil I would have compression issues if the car sat too long with out starting. Car would crank, but not start. It would act like the starter not engaging the flywheel.
My wife has been having a heck of a time with her 05 I've put plugs in it , coils in it and now they are saying injectors and it's driving me crazy, I can do the work but I can't afford the parts but the crazy thing is I believe that the gas cap fits loosely so I'll have to look into that.
You could find Cadillac parts for cheaper online. Trust me I have saved lots of money on my Cadillac cts by ordering the parts.
2005 CTS 3.6 Auto; after 6 years, 80k miles- Evap purge, rear differential bushing, high oil consumption, transmission rear main seal, sunroof switch, center brake light, water pump
+Kyle Bache Thanks for the feedback!
Check your valve cover gaskets if u have misfires usually due to this your intake gaskets , spark plugs , and coil packs will need to be replaced smh 🤦 going thru it with my 03 3.2 getting it on road for the ls2
I have a 06 cts the only thing it needs is new catalyst converters and it shakes at a certain speed but other than that I love it
Had the cooling issue with my 3.6 blocking half the radiator with card board did the trick
These are my go to video s
Easy to understand to the point
Best part i get info without feeling I owe anybody I do buy my parts thru A1 Thank you
Got an 06 2.8 215000 miles has had all of these problems but still runs like a dream
Colton Fisher same here just came back from a cross country road trip yesterday ran great just check oil level often !!!
What did you do about the misfire mine is doing that
@@_Chicagosfinest I experienced the "oil using thing" when we drove my 05 CTS years ago on a road trip. So, yeah, just cuz it WASN'T a high mileage car? THAT doesn't make it like a Toyota or something. Lol. Yeah, my older know it all brother dogs on my 05 CTS V6 calling em ALL "oilers" cuz a couple similar articles he read OR sumthin but...? I like it. 😎 Bought in 2011 with 65,000 miles, NOW has 95,000. New tune up, plugs, original brake pads could pass for new. Good for another 100,00 miles 😏
As an owner of a first gen cts for over a year now, I can tell you around 200,000 you'll have a few problems. I had to replace my rear end, catalytic converters, a new brake master cylinder and installed an aftermarket transmission radiator because the connector to the stock radiator sucks. I also need a cv axle, and a heating element for the heated seats, but its been a great little car I've put about 18,000 miles on it in a year and I dont drive it easy
Transmission issues also seem to be very common. Along with no start issues after replacing the transmission from what I've seen on sales ads
I had the 2005 cts 3.6 V6. Before I got rid of it, if I got on the gas under 30mph it would keep jerking real bad, but above 30mph it would just take off like nothing was wrong. What could have caused that? Catalytic converter? Someone once said that could have been it but I wasn't sure.
Long as ya DON'T plan on taking it out on the road at ALL when it's snowed just a bit, OR any other cold wintery mix conditions? It's ALL good (knocking on wood!) 2005 CTS V6 bought in 2011 with 65,000 miles NOW 95,000 miles. Factory brake pads could almost pass for new. 😏 I dig it. But yeah, I TOO noticed that you BETTER carry couple/few quarts of OIL IF going on ANY longer than normal "road trips." I HAVE heard they are "oilers." 🤔😬
Mine has 210.000 miles on it buddy
I love the cars style, but I hate the problems associated with the goddamn Cadillac CTS
One of the most common problems is differential bushing rubber rotting out and causing clunking noise when shifting gears or on/ off accelerator. Replaced mine with polyurethane one from revshift 35,000 miles ago. Now I need all bushings and mounts replaced. The CTS-Vs have too much power for the differential and will eventually grenade it unless a granny driver never gets on it. I love these cars but the differential is the weakest link
+Sam Holcombe Thanks for the feedback!
Yep
Same with me. My 05 3.6 has 190000 mi on it and it only needed this as well as a new driveshaft. That’s it. Things drives insanely clean besides some random semi weird gear shifts. Anything I need to look for specifically?
That's the 3.6L. The 2L V6 option has a different intake plenum
On my 06 CTS, I’ve replaced the entire engine 3.6, ECM, electric panel box,… worst one I’ve been putting off is the rear differential bush mount which is a $30 part that requires $1500 in labor. Great placement GM
Mine is bad too, been putting it off after looking up how to do it.
I just finished my driveshaft support carrier bearing which was in really bad shape.. it was basically a skeleton cage with no bushing left. As a result I also had to replace the forward differential bushing which was hollowed out from the driveshaft banging around. The job was fairly simple once I took the time to just get it done. Sticking points...
1. Driving the differential bushing out of it's sleeve. I was banging on it on and off for a whole day and spraying it with blaster every time I walked by it before it finally budged like a millimeter. Then.... Another hour of banging and spraying until I finally lost patience and grabbed my air saw and cut three relief grooves the full length and depth of the sleeve (bushing just fell out and left the sleeve flush in the opening.) Finally it let go and the new one wouldn't start. Can't heat up the diff as the plastic gas tank resides like one inch from the target, so... No. Bad idea. I ended up hitting the new part with a wire wheel and then polished it on the rag wheel, greased it and wire wheeled the diff opening and greased it and seated the part successfully.
2. Mark the driveshaft AT BOTH ENDS WITH PAINT MARKERS!!! my sharpie marks had rubbed off by the time the driveshaft was going back in and, let me tell you... Once you miss the splines once and booger the leading edge.... I was filing and test fitting and marking and filing and after a couple of days of cursing and sweating it finally went back together. Mark it at both ends!!!
3. Mark the diff input shaft, the rag bushing and the driveshaft, then again at the u joint on both shafts, then again on the front shaft and at the transmission output shaft. You're thinking, "I won't be separating the front shaft....." Yeah, shut up. It just sorta fell out while positioning it to reinstall the diff. Just save yourself a headache and mark everything.
Other than the days I wasted learning what not to do the actual work was not terribly difficult. Learn from my mistakes and tackle it yourself! Good luck.
Running rough, I changed the coils and plugs myself, not a easy job. Problem solved, now I have a rear wheel that sounds like a snow tire. I just bought a rear bearing assembly. Hopefully it will solve the noise problem.
I have the same problem. Did it work?
Brother just bought one a traction light, abs and thermostat check engins
Hello i have a 2007 CTS, just like the one in this video and every time i put the car in drive i can hear and feel the differential kick hard , does that mean the differential is bad ? Or could it be something else ? Please help .
M’y oil change is due tommorow, and the car is running very well. Check engine light pop today and it’s saying p0021. My car only have 77000 km. It’s a cts 2007 v6 2,8L could it be because of my oil?
The V-8 engine for the 2005 is a LS6, not an LS2. Good info though!
+Howard Taylor Thanks for checking us out!
I have an 03 cts 3.2l I've heard they have a common problem with the pcv system clogging up. I believe this is why my valve gasket keeps blowing. How do I fix this? Thanks
look up the TSB issued by cadillac for the pcv system modification. i had the same issue, this cleared it right up.
Thanks for your reply. I did have a tight steering wheel. Often locked up on me. All power steering fluid gone. Nobody ever checked it I'm sure due to where opening is located under cover under hood. One mechanic didn't know where it was located until i told him. (I found in manual). Had to have the power steering line replaced. Cost me about $600. Dealership mechanics don't always check fluids!
Thought about buying a small preowned Cad SUV with no more than 25,000 Mi. How reliable are they? Do they have alot of problems?
+Rachel Tharrington Thanks for the feedback!
Hi I have a 2005 cts 3.6L, The Fuel pump is not getting power I checked the fuse and Relay they are good and I don't think its the fuel pump because its working I've tried two different Pumps both work also I changed the fuel pump electrical connector. once i turn the key to the on position the fuel pump will not come on and the car keep cranking
My 2006 CTS Cadillac gets really hot ,not over heating but you can feel the heat just by standing in front of the car. Any help?
Yes ran in the the thermostat problem. Got it so can access but the black coolant tube that runs alongside motor to lower side of radiator won’t move. Makes it impossible to set thermostat housing appropriately in place and to remove. .???? Jim
2003 Cadillac CTS code: P0700 (MIL Request) has new throttle body.
It also tells me to change the oil. Is it possible the car is acting up due to oil low oil?
Thanks, you guys are great.👏 Blessings to you all. 😉👍
Yea mine runs great all I’ve ever needed to fix was a power steering leak and and alignment
The ECM computer is a issue. It can cause a misfire and need to be replaced. I have a power bleed in my electrical system. If my cts sits for 3 days, it will be dead.
I have 2003 3.2 L manual. Is there anything that I should be warned about?
Love my 2007 cts I have hade cylinder 5 and 6 misfire in the past 1-2 years that just took 1 simple spark plug/coil. The blinkers do also only work sometimes though think that’s just little module thing. But runs good for 175k miles on it
So would you recommend the car? I’m looking to buy one and a few of these problems have scared me. Have you experienced starting problems?
i’m lowkey ab to buy one of these
Just got one in manual a month or two ago 10/10 would recommend
Mines at 190000 mi and still runs insanely strong. Never had engine problems. But that’s sometimes just luck of the draw
We have a 05 Cadillac CTS with a no crank no start. The battery isn't dead but when you go to crank it the dashboard lights all go out and nothing happens. when we let it sit for a few hours or whatever. later it will start. sometimes you might get lucky and it will start for a few day and other times it wont.
Service airbag light and catalystic converters
I just got a Cadillac CTS 3.6 litter v6 2006 mis firing an something electrical as well how much would tht be far as the sensors
I’ve had 4 Cadillacs and all four had electrical short issues. I bet most everyone with a Cadillac has had the same problem
Thanks for your video. My cadillac 2006 crank start but stop at the same time. Please what can be the problem
All of the above plus replaced the fuel tank pressure sensor. 2007 2.8 base
Check engine light still on?
Also have oil leak somewhere on front. I haven’t got to that yet? V6 3.6
I have a 06 CTS I come home to change my breaks and put new headlights in and went to start it and had no power interior lights come on but nothing else.and key got stuck in ignition.battery is good alternator is good no blown fuses new ignition switch can someone help me out on what else to do please
+Lucky Thomas We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
My father has an 03 CTS with the Caterra v6 manual fwd. It was not the best engine ive worked on n kinda frustrating but good one. A big problem with those is where the factory did the power steering lines running from drivers side to running over to the passenger side then back to the drivers under the oil pan and literally a couple inches from the return pressure line and those aluminum lines are not the the sturdiest so if uve got one be careful with it because they've discontinued those specific parts for that specific engine in the 03 Manual version. If u can somehow find the steering line parts for those and need to replace it, just loosen lower engine mount bolts super simple and take off upper bolts so u can lift engine with the floor jack but it doesnt need to be jacked up too far just enough for some room. Take the engine and tilt it to the passenger and get something u can use to hold the engine tilted to the passenger side as best u can and u will have enough room to get in there and ur gonna need a stubby wrench set with the other tools needed. If u dont do those steps it will be difficult and I know it sounds like alot, but its truly simple to get the best room and angle to change. Hope this helps too everyone. Keep up the awesome videos guys im watching all of em and still getting knowledge i wasnt aware of.
I had misfire in #2 replaced injector and fixed but now misfire #6. I believe it to be vacuum leak but cannot pin it down specifically. Spray carb cleaner on driver side top and clears up. Replaced orings for lines to plenum because they were not tight, replaced plenum gasket but no luck. Maybe lower intake gasket but I broke an intake bolt putting it back together, torque wrench set at 17 lbs but never clicked. Anyway I’m about to take it in to let a pro fix the vacuum leak and now the broken bolt. I’ve changed 2 other injector on this car and no problem, the good ol days
Make sure you reset your torque ranch to 0 every time you use it otherwise the Spring inside will stretch and not give you a correct reading.. Ask me how I know. This is unless you have a digital wine or you don't need to do that.
Personally.
I had to replace the timing chain at 140k miles.
The transmission fluid pan seals needed replacement. At same time.
ECM needed to be replaced at 120k miles and again at 180k. The car wouldn't start and key light 🔐 was on..
I just recently bought a 2007 BTS and I have definitely experienced a slow start issues and I've been very concerned about the all I'm definitely going to double-check the all before leaving this video was extremely helpful thank you
06 cats I bought right after high school. Right off the bat when I took it home. Whenever I put gas. It seems it drowns the engine since I had to put the gas pedal down every time I fill up even just 10$ worth of gas. I had to fix the alternator which was expected since it had 95K miles. I put a new water pump on it. Just recently replaced the radiator. And my battery just died when I bought it at 2018. My radio just went out. I have no audio. And for some reason. A few years back I had to replace my high beams 3 TIMES!!! I love how this car looks. But lol man this car needs lots of maintenance. I still have to change my rear diff bushing since it decides to kicked when I push the gas a little hard. When I say a little I mean just 3K RPM. Not sure whether to get rid of this and get a new Cadillac. Or fix this up some more
Hello was wondering if you could help I replaced my computer on my 2004 cts 3.6L did all the programming to read the my keys my engine turns over and wants to start but doesn’t . What do you think is my problem
I’m trying to find the thermal cooling sensor on a 2007 CTS 3.6 I can’t find a video that’s shows where its located
I parked my 2006 CTS. It had been running fine. Then the next day, it wouldn’t start. It cranks, but no start. What are the chances the timing belt is the issue? I sprayed starting fluid into the manifold but it would not fire. Crankshaft position sensor?
What about if the electronic immobilizer won’t let the car start? I have to short circuit the starter relais after it’s been sitting for a while
I've got a 2003 Cadillac CTS with 170,000 miles. P0121 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor. I'm thinking it's not the throttle body but rather the gas pedal that's crapped out. The throttle body is from ACDelco and was installed new about a year ago.
for the thermostat why would the covering have to be replaced as well?
Quick question just bought a 2004 CTS and my radiator fan is not turning on but the fan works
fuel pumps and sending units
clock spring aswell
I have a 06 cts that have p1826 and p1825 and p0700 and when I Try to start it the key gets stuck And they won't start Sais disabling key
There's a recall for this
Hi, I've got a 2007 2.8L, I've had to replace crank sensor, timing chain, spark plugs and coils. But its got another peculiar problem, my windshield wipers aren't working properly, they randomly come on without prompting, and it won't turn off most of the time.
check all your fuses make sure there in the right place and the right amp fuse
Hey man, its a control unit attached to your wiper transmission under the cowel. If you change it yourself just take your time and dont break anything taking ut apart. So long as you do that and pit the wiper arms in the right place when its all together you will be fine. But DO NOT WAIT! It will go to permanent on full speed when it full breaks. I should have recorded the work and posted it. The part is wiper motor pulse board. I find the oem motor to be very good so changing this part instead of the whole thing also insures allignment so long as its already not out of allignment.
Pit = put. Just put things back as they were.
Ahh, ghost wipers. Had the same issue when I got the car. Turns out the rubber gasket on the wiper motor assembly dries up and allows moisture in it, which causes it to short out. I bet you notice this more after you get some rain. This was a few years (and many other repairs) ago, but I'm pretty sure I replaced the wiper motor, maybe just the cover where the gasket is seated. One thing I do remember is buying a torx set, just for this job! Cadillac, the gift that keeps on giving!
Wiper cover on wiper motor had the same problem
I just changed Cadillac transmission , battery 🔋 and it was running fine but today when I went to start my car it not tuning on ? Solution please 2nd problem
the floor vent.. my feet are extremely cold during the winter time.. my passenger side windshield fogs up air is not reaching..
Our 2005 CTS at the first startup most days will fire up fine and then within 3-5 seconds will stutter and shake for a second or two but then will recover and run fine afterward. Could it be the MAF sensor needs cleaning?
I am going insane dealing with my 07cts 3.6 the no crank no start issue is crazy I've been to the dealership twice now first they said it was an aftermarket remote start that needed removed and a new wiring harness so I did that and the same problem returned before I even put 100 miles on it waiting to hear from the dealership again
Hey 1A, I have an 06 CTS 2.8 and while driving it, the car completely stalled. Before this happened I had an evap leak that wasn't causing issues but now I have 6 cylinder misfires and an engine knock sensor. Any ideas? I know fuel pump is fine.
What causes a power steering rod to go bad?
+Rachel Tharrington Here are a few symptoms or warning signs that alert you to a potential problem brewing with your steering rack.
Very tight steering wheel. ...
Leaking power steering fluid. ...
Grinding noise when steering. ...
Burning oil smell.
2006 Cad CTS..wipers came on anytime. Had switch replaced. Fluid motor works, but comes on every time wipers are on. Mechanic says motor needs to be replaced. Why? Could it need a relay replaced? What is your opinion.
What do you think would be issue if their is no heat on the driver’s side on 2006 cts
I own a 2006 cadillac cts.
I changed the ignition coils and spark plugs and fuel injectors. the scanner has the codes of p0304 p0305 code. please help
mine has a evap code but it’s not the ones shown could this still be the problem
I bet it's the evap pressure sensor under the car on top of the fuel tank. I'm having the same issue myself currently.
my headlights work but one of them is dim regularly and when I flick my high beams it doesn't have nothin at all I switched the light bulb a couple times it has to be some other issue I don't know
Hi. I have a CTS Model 2003 2.6L (2/6) and the problem: when connecting the fuel paddle then engine won't start, when disconnect engine will start. Can you help please?
If you change the blinker fluid in it when you first take ownership of the vehicle it’ll extend its life by over 5 years!!
Have a 2010 CTS oil pressure hand drops 20 psi in idle and there’s a knock do you think it’s oil pump or rod bearing
I have a problem I don’t know why when I’m about to start my car I use the heard the sound of the belts it’s stop doing it and also my radio not working
Very informative
have a questions how do you change the turing signal lights? I cant get the light thing open to put the blub in it seem to be glue together.
#6 battery drain.
Yes I've got questions weird. I really need some help oh, I've got a 2004 CTS and the car has been sitting for probably five years. I pulled the dipstick to check the oil and it look like a burgundy color. Almost like a burnt oil but it's not black. So anyway when it fired up for the first time in many years. It started knocking and it sounded really bad. I put a dollar bill up against the exhaust pipe and it sucked the dollar bill up against the exhaust pipe. It's also smoking. What could this be? Do you think the engine is shot?
My thermostat has been stuck open for a while. I brought it in and they told me the thermostat is under the manifold and it’s gonna cost $800 to replace. I have a 2005 CTS 3.6ltr
Are they wrong?
I have this problem with my car 2006 cts cadillac 2.8l. When turn on the ac the car engine start shaking