I have a similar chop saw style from harbor freight. It sharpens to "like new" even on my first try. On mine there is a fair amount of adjustment needed when transitioning from one side of the chain to the other, but it works great for really beat up chains. Cost me what one new chain does and have already sharpened 4 times, definitely worth getting used to for when hand files will take too long.
Hey Oakie, I finally got around to sharpening a chain with my dremmel - I thought it did a really good job. I'm a round, hand filer but stepped out of my comfort zone to used the dremmel - def doesn't get the tooth hot enough to effect the temper of the tooth
Blade sharpening is a religious war topic :). The fact is that you have to accept that you will probably wreck a few chains or have less than ideal results until you've done it several times. It's a technique that has to be learned, not something you'll get right each and every time. On rotary grinders, they're a lot more aggressive than a file (obviously), and you can make mistakes quicker. Once you've figured that out, how to hold it comfortably and when to recognize if you're overheating the tooth, you get far better results. You also have to take a lot more material off a new chain than once you've sharpened it. Factory gullets seem to be a fair bit shallower than once it's conformed to the diameter of the file.
Good morning Brock and Joe. This was a very informative video but I have a question. I have an electric chop saw sharpener from Harbor Freight and I've had pretty good luck with it sharpening my chains after the first few but I'm curious about if it can be adjusted to also do the rakers on my chains. I've just been using the gauge and file to do them. I was just wondering if you guys knew. God bless and have a wonderful day. 👍👍🙂
My amature experience with the 2 in 1 sharpener is they are great, but if I use it every time the rakers end up too short and I feel every tooth hitting wood, hard to describe. I alternate and use a round file twice then a 2in 1 then back and forth
I make a living using my saws, in the woods,I use the file or swap out the chain, but nothing beats running the chains through electric grinder every few days
My experience spend 20 minutes sharpening a chain to get it to cut slightly better, then throw it away and buy a new one because i want to cut wood not sharpen chains. If there was a mail in service that got old chains back to factory new condition for half the cost of a new chain I would go for that.
Great educational video Brock. I learned a tremendous amount. Thanks
Great job delivering the information. Great video
That was a really good video.....thanks for posting.
Thanks
I have a similar chop saw style from harbor freight. It sharpens to "like new" even on my first try. On mine there is a fair amount of adjustment needed when transitioning from one side of the chain to the other, but it works great for really beat up chains. Cost me what one new chain does and have already sharpened 4 times, definitely worth getting used to for when hand files will take too long.
Hey Oakie, I finally got around to sharpening a chain with my dremmel - I thought it did a really good job. I'm a round, hand filer but stepped out of my comfort zone to used the dremmel - def doesn't get the tooth hot enough to effect the temper of the tooth
Blade sharpening is a religious war topic :). The fact is that you have to accept that you will probably wreck a few chains or have less than ideal results until you've done it several times. It's a technique that has to be learned, not something you'll get right each and every time. On rotary grinders, they're a lot more aggressive than a file (obviously), and you can make mistakes quicker. Once you've figured that out, how to hold it comfortably and when to recognize if you're overheating the tooth, you get far better results. You also have to take a lot more material off a new chain than once you've sharpened it. Factory gullets seem to be a fair bit shallower than once it's conformed to the diameter of the file.
Question: Do you get less vibration from the saw if all the cutters are the same size as if it was a new chain?
I never set my cutting teeth to the same width.i set my rakers as yous have done to each tooth.i find my saw cuts true and straight
Thanks guys, I needed this! 👍🏻
Lots of great info, thanks guys!
Appreciated
Good morning Brock and Joe. This was a very informative video but I have a question. I have an electric chop saw sharpener from Harbor Freight and I've had pretty good luck with it sharpening my chains after the first few but I'm curious about if it can be adjusted to also do the rakers on my chains. I've just been using the gauge and file to do them. I was just wondering if you guys knew. God bless and have a wonderful day. 👍👍🙂
My amature experience with the 2 in 1 sharpener is they are great, but if I use it every time the rakers end up too short and I feel every tooth hitting wood, hard to describe. I alternate and use a round file twice then a 2in 1 then back and forth
Thanks guys
I make a living using my saws, in the woods,I use the file or swap out the chain, but nothing beats running the chains through electric grinder every few days
When referring to the raker bar gauge he says "this" what is this?? Having never seen one, got a link?
amzn.to/3V6Z0M5
The never ending saga about filing 😊 Also what about Buckin. "BABY C"??? the baby c doesn't hit the Gullet all the way down ?
😉
My experience spend 20 minutes sharpening a chain to get it to cut slightly better, then throw it away and buy a new one because i want to cut wood not sharpen chains. If there was a mail in service that got old chains back to factory new condition for half the cost of a new chain I would go for that.
Morning
Morning sir!
Hi