@@GuiltyofTreeson I was searching through the comments for this. I would absolutely love to see you collab with him (Project Farm) in some way, shape or form. Either him or Dyno Joe Mods.
Man we’re all going to miss you Jed. R.I.P. to a true legend. I’ve learned a lot from him on your channel and loved listening to his perspective on things! ❤
16 inch bars are really common in nova scotia canada too, we have trees very similar to what norway has. A 50-60cc saw with a 15 -16 inch bar is the go to set up. All the big spruce trees are gone, the only big trees left are hardwoods close to houses.
The common setups in germany are similar. Short bars and small powerheads. 🤣🤣If you are cutting a tree with a too heavy saw and a too long bar (if your bar is over 45cm and the tree diameter isn't approximately twice the barlength) other cutters would call that a boys-contest or di**-swinging. "stand up and buck" is not very common here... 🤣🤣🤣🤣
I've been grinding Hexa with my Oregon grinder. I had to reprofile the grinding wheel and adjust the angles on the head. It's definitely faster and seems to hold an edge very well. This chain is truly something different in regards to cutter teeth. Basically there hasn't been a change in our "modern" chain in quite a while. Thanks Jacob and Jed!
@@richardflagg3084 I'm in diar need of a MS661c cylinder. I screwed up a customers by installing an insert instead of a Helicoil and it didn't hold up very long. Any ideas Richard? Thanks in advance! I'll look for the vid you mentioned 👍
@@donmayberryjrsOPE Try Ebay. A used cylinder in decent shape will pop up. Also Shaun Carr has a youtube channel. He can weld up the hole, drill and tap it to original. I believe his channel is srcarr52.
I'm in my late 60's and and when I was in my early 20's, 2 old loggers showed me the hex method. I've used it ever since, because how well it holds an edge, how fast it cuts and easy it is to sharpen. West Coast
Novice firewood and homestead cutter here. I have been running Oregon and Stihl full chisel and semi. Enjoy the channel and learning quite a few things in the process.
You're very blessed to have such good mentors. Between Jed and August you have such a wealth of knowledge that is just a phone call away. Love the videos Jake. Climb high and stay safe.
Hello Jacob. Florida here😊. I love this post. Ive been professionally sharping chain for years. Did them all. In my opinion, there's nothing better than a square profile. Hexa and standard square have very little difference and its in the gullet. These profiles are the smoothest, longer lasting, and unbiased to grain direction ive ever used. Changing the top plate angle to 10 or 15 degrees allows me rip cut and cross cut with no effort. Concerning your perspective on raker heights, that's critical to performance. The testosterone fueled idea of dropping the rakers to take out more "meat" to speed things up is 😂. It puts unreasonable amounts of stress on the power head and user. Who the heck wants to use a saw that digs, vibrates, binds up constantly and fatigues the operator??? Thats a disater waiting to happen, especially when a controlled surgical cut is needed. Anyhow. Thanks for the great posts. Stay humble and be safe.
Sounds like it's time to UA-cam a trip to the Stihl factory in Germany!!! Good seeing 'Inbred Jed,' he always seems like such a chill guy and so knowledgeable.
Thank you for that video, it proofs, what i just "felt". I just tested the hexa a few days before. It cuts very well. Didn't measure it, but it feels faster than the rounfiled but way slower than the squarefiled (handfiled, can't afford a simington) chain. But it feels very grabby. It easily grabbed some 30cm diameter oak and hornbeam with 60 cm length which i was cutting in half, lifted it and threw it to my knees.. (short bar 45cm on a 362C-M). Borecuts feel smoother than roundground but again not as smooth as square. The same with cuts along the fibres and through knots. When limbing it feels a bit rough in the moment you hit the wood but in the cut it's very fast and smooth. In dirty wood it dulls as fast an the roundground chain. I think it is a nice "in between" for all who want the advantages close to squaredrind without learning to handfile it or buy a simington. Greetings from germany
When I tested hexa, it was faster than square but slower than round. Could it be the wood? I was cutting some very soft softwood, cannot remember what. But hexa is VERY easy to file!
It's awesome to see Jed in your videos! Awesome friendship you guys have. Great information you put out, and hearing different peoples perspectives in new(old) technology is nice as well.
Awesome buddy . Chainsaw chain can sure be a minefield for sure but in my experience it’s wood specific the type of chain you run . Great stuff Jacob. God bless ya .
Pretty sure the rakers being slanted to the side are to control not just amount of top depth removed but also side depth removed. Maybe the tooth shape has some tendency to pull the chain sideways, so the side-raker keeps the chain properly straight in the bar groove. Also, as for speed... the round filed chain look decently more filed down which makes it a lighter chain, thus faster to spin. Couldn't tell that well tho. Personally i like to file from the other side of the tooth (opposite direction). It's not easy to do, but i believe it cuts off the chrome more cleanly. Take care ~
I own a tree service in Beaumont Texas and I have done some testing and I use the Stihl 33 RM which is the round tooth chain and it does cut fraction slower than the square tooth which is 33 RS . But the bad thing about the square tooth chain when it gets slightly dull it cuts curves and dulls faster in dirty wood. The round top will cut nails into and keep cutting and easier to sharpen. Square chain has to make sure any scratch or damaged tooth has to be filed completely out or it still won't cut right.
I have been cutting and bucking firewood for the past 38 years. 5 years ago I went to the timberline Sharpening system, will never hand file a saw again. I run 7 different saws, stihl, husky, Jonsered and echo, I favor the echo. 5 of my saw friends now sharpen with the timberline system. Chain lasts 4 to 5 times longer along with tooth consistency.
I have a Stihl 025 that originally had a 16 inch bar and chain that is .063 gauge. It was used when i got it but instead of having the 3/8 pitch it has .325 pitch and i put a 18 inch bar and skip tooth chain on it. Great little saw and has great power and torque for only being 45cc. I also have an old homelite super XL 925 with a 34 inch bar and chain
Its is really common here in Europe to come across shorter bars in combination with thick chain (1,6mm = 0.63 in), mainly for the reason that there is a lot of hard tree species. Second factor would be that there is not an option of getting half/full skip chains over here, therefore you would need powerful (and heavy) powerhead for bar lengths over 60cm (24 inch). After all, you either won´t come across such a big tree, or the tree would be protected as a national/memorable tree, to need such length very often ,so you would just end up calling a guy with 084 to send it down for you
We all love seeing Jed on the channel. Of course I appreciate you doing everything you've been doing traveling showing us all these different types of tree companies and people and tools of the trade and the various scales and sizes all around the country/world. Its been awesome to watch and I'm sure such a beautiful exciting thing to experience on your end. You're killing it Jake. Keep it up I tune in for every video. Hopefully you and Jed get to spend some more time together and bring him on the channel to share his wealth of knowledge. Love it. Thanks man
I asked my local shop here on the East Coast of Canada about the Hexa chain a few months ago, they looked at me like I had 10 heads, interesting to see how the aggressive tooth holds its edge, it looks far quicker to sharpen / maintain (as you eluded to)
perhaps one of the reasons we more experienced sawyers have such a negative impression of round chain when it performs so comparably well when sharp is that the concave cutting edge is a slightly less supported edge and therefore doesn't keep sharp as well over time. The first couple cuts are great, but it doesn't stay as well over many cuts, and we are sensitive to that slight reduction in speed, whereas a good square grind has a more supported edge because of geometry and can maintain its sharpness slightly better requiring less frequent sharpening to maintain.
I wonder if at the microns closest to the edge which is what counts, that angle actually makes the slightest bit of difference. One thing that makes a huge difference is good quality steel and the difference between a cheap steel and a best quality heat treated steel blade edge from say Sheffield, England or Germany is really stunning! Swiss blades now, I m o, are all talking and no lederhosen! 🩳 (Sorry no "leader" emojis). 😂 Maybe this Norwegian home-made chain will need less frequent sharpening to UA-cam the high grade of steel it may be made from!
Interesting to see the difference between the cuts, the speed at which they cut, and the final product being as smooth as it was; especially with a hexa chain it look like the cut was very smooth, leave very little ripple. This would be great for slab cutting.
Awesome video Jacob!!!! I was really looking forward to this and it did not disappoint. I am working on running some square ground for the first time, otherwise round ground.
The square ground chain cuts straight but it creates a larger kerf because the sharp side plate acts like side planer in a way and removes more material side to side.
Oh goodie....looks like I got a spam reply to my comment, Jake. Think I could borrow one of your chainsaws with a hex chain to cut this spammers cojones off?
That’s awsome can’t wait for the stihl hexa chain. I tried getting at 3 local stihl dealers here in Kentucky none in stock. Said they are having some supply chain issues looks like the hexa maybe a lot easier to sharpen and stay sharp a little longer. Thanks for the post I’ve been watching all your videos and trying to stay current
I've done that - I didn't time the cuts, I just counted the frames. Was VERY surprised that the round filed chain was the fastest - will stay with round files for now! ua-cam.com/video/iM0axEqk3jc/v-deo.html
@@anthonycima7 if you’re into saw chain performance (and not everyone is) it could be worthwhile. Then again it might be pointless- never know unless you try it
I suspect the offset rakers are why the hexa stays in the kerf better just like the round file chain. The square ground has the working corner kind of peaking out from behind the raker letting it grab new wood outside the kerf hence slowing it down if not guided properly. I bet the hexa won’t dull as bad either having the raker right in front of the tooth. ….My thoughts….
I was running this saw for about 2 hours at about a 30-50% duty cycle ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and it did a great job. I used the lever for the built in sharpener to clear chip buildup out more than to actually sharpen the chain. It managed to cut some hardwood stumps much larger than it's size without bothering the neighbors with hours of 2 stroke noise.
You've talked me into sticking with what I use; round grind lol If the best advantage to the hexa is .5 seconds on an average log, it's literally a "no brainer." 😂
There's an easy way to test chainsaw chain and remove almost all other variables so you get clear results. What you do is get a bunch of 4x4 or 6x6 lumber from the store, and stack them up either in a 3x3, 4x4, or 5x5 configuration (depending on what log diameter you're trying to simulate and what bar you're using). Then ratchet strap them together in at least two spots. Now you have a very consistent "log" of wood that you can test your chain cut speed on. Then either drill a hole through the end of the bar behind the sprocket, or maybe knock a rivet out and stick a pin through the bar. Then you get a known weight around 5-10 pounds and use some chain to hang it off the pin at the end of the bar. This will allow you to just one hand support the back of the saw, while the weight at the nose of the bar applies consistent pressure through each cut. Then I would make at least 10 full cuts per chain, giving you nice consistent data sets for all the chains. There you go, as close as you can get to a perfect experiment with all variables completely controlled for, isolating just the differences in chain performance. Props to Project Farm for giving us some of his ideas for testing methodology.
Maybe that lab testing could be a side channel. I'm always impressed with how in depth you test things. That round can be better if you ain't scared to change pitch and depth on the grind. It can get wild
Cool test! But I’ll stick with my round filed chain! Especially up here Yukon Canada, we don’t have lots of choices or availability on stuff like that!! Good video!! Cheers
Thanks for taking time to compare- I'll just stay w/ old round filing be doing long long time- My problem is Carpal tunnel hands go numb So trying to research some sort jig-
It's real nice to see Jed back again!!!! All different types of chain have to be used on the same saw, with the same operator over long periods of time in order to get an accurate over view of all the testing of the individual Chains!!!! And you will still get different opinions from various individuals!!! Its going to be hard to get a general consensus on all the chains ... I know everyone was smiling when they saw how fast Jeds hand filed chain was cutting!!! It's hard to beat hand sharpening, if you do a good job like Jed does!!!!!! Hand filing Is always sharper, but it loses that extra touch quicker.
Thanks for the demonstration Jake. I learn alot on your Channel,and what I learn I remember. Youve saved me much trail and error. A very good analysis of Chains at the end of Video.
Think of it this way; the hex cut is the same effect a a tanto style knife blade tip and the round file is liek a standard drop point knife blade tip. The tanto is popular for its much higher durability since the tip angle is not nearly as sharp or pointy. It may only cut the same, but it should last a lot longer b/w filings.
one variable that I noticed, even though you are using the same log, would be how long ago was the end of the old maple initially cut? I know you said it was old and hard but even still a fresh foot off of the end before the test would have given a fairer playing field. Or at least they seemed to get quicker as you got further into it
Would have liked to see an average of at least three cuts per chain, this doesn't rule out inconsistencies in the wood but it helps normalize the data. We don't know if any of those cuts were the best that chain can offer, the worst or representative of normal use (aka average). Comparing the square cuts worst to the round cuts best isn't really a comparison. We can't really make any conclusions from this experiment besides square cut doesn't like to cut straight and chains out of the box suck As for what matieral to cut for consistency and comparison sake, it might sound weird but hdf (high density fiberboard) or mdf (medium density fiberboard). I'd get some sheets, cut down to 12" wide, laminate the sheets together until you have something like a 12x12" "log" of mostly homogenous matieral. It's, obviously, completely different from a log, but it is cuttable with a chainsaw and should yield consistent results. Potential issue with the glue gumming up the works, may need to clean bar between chains, and hdf is going to be pretty rough on the chains, there's potential to see increasing cut times on each pass due to wear, however that provides an additional opportunity to test for how each chain type wears, which is great to know.
Love yer love of all the saws and tree work. carpenter from Cali that wanted to be a faller as a kid. I like old orange saws but really like them all and enjoy learning about them. Cheers from Santa Cruz mountains
I have a chain tool for fitting motorcycle chains. There are a few styles. They tend to work on the principle of mushrooming the link pin after it's intserted. Pins for bike chains have taperd shoulders, though, not straight.
Here in Spain and Portugal is very common the Sthil Smi-chizel chains. Also 16" bars are common to, in fact 6 months ago I buy the Stihl MSA300 and it comes with a 16"bar later I buy the 18" extra.
I just audibly exclaimed "Yes!" when I saw the video in my recommended. Keep it up, Jake! I really appreciate the effort you've had to go through these past months / couple years. Jesus Loves You, Brother.
I just sharpened a chain successful for the first time with this as background noise, and then proceeded to start my cold craftsman with 2 pulls like an absolute boss 😂
Another great video thanks for the comparison Jake! I always wondered what the time difference would be… Have you seen the new files with the built-in flat file for rakers? They actually work pretty slick from an efficiency standpoint because you can both file the chain and the Rakers at the same time. Look forward to the next one!
I rarely sharpen in the woods.. but when I do it with that stihl combo unit. You're wedged on a tailgate or if you're lucky have a stump vise that tool is amazing at helping you keep it consistent. And it'll kiss any high rakers at the same time.
To be fair it was also in another country famous for having high prices, and it was 2 separate chains and came with a file. I bet if it came to the states officially, if you got the chain without the file it would be closer to 60 dollars for a 30-36” chain
Of course they like short bars....see the Tekos they cut...small diameter reprod...great video thank you!!!.....think I'll stay with my Simington swing arm....get a great square grind cuts great....Shoe in SW Oregon ...Good to see Jed is back.
You could use six by sixes strapped together and be selective not to use ones with Knots in them there’s you’re consistent media. Also you should weigh the chains. the rakers have a different profile on the four chains that you tested. A lighter chain will go faster because the Saw isn’t working as hard to pull it. It’d be great to find out if you could use the hex of file and re-file a round chain. There are a lot of variables but with each test you learn new things. Love watching your videos. Love that Jed too !
One test you should do is the difference between "wet" fresh dropped trees to ones that have been down for a year or so. In my experience the dryer trees cut better with round filing
I'm an amateur, just taking care of my own property, cutting my own firewood, so my perspective is different... I don't think I'd notice a few seconds per cut as I rarely run more than two tanks of fuel in a day. But I have invested some time and energy in setting up to keep my chains sharp. Even a dub like me can get frustrated by a dull chain. So the test I'd like to see is a straightforward comparison of ease and speed of sharpening the different profiles. Currently I use round chains as I have a bench grinder set up to do the major sharpening and I can easily touch it up in the field.
Also, I feel like the curved rakers account for the older straight-style disadvantages. Whenever someone files the raker, anyone should account for 1-2% of error: because we aren't computers. So if they're winged-out to the side, my guess is that when filed: They counter-act cutting left or right just as much as a mushrooming bar would/over-filing on a straight raker? Minimalizing user-error, keeping a straighter cut, at the sacrifice of more drag? You paid more for "dummy-proof metal?" An old man said: Huskys been around for 300 years now. They've gotta have made the stuff to be dummy proof by now? (anyone can break a husky in 5 minutes doing the wrong thing, lots of external parts exposed; Lawn Mower Spindles that cant get the grease to the bearings? come on guys.) IMO: HusQ has generalized products, with alot of collaborative design (545) STIHL: Been around for a hundred years, has 2x more safety features, but expects the operator to be on their A-Game if you want to perform. The moment you stop paying attention, you'll screw up. Stihl has a little more leeway with mistakes. HusQ doesn't. Hit your chain brake once and you might see clutch-drum-shrapnel go flying. IMO: STIHL focuses on one thing: Small Engines and user-comfort. Design-Worthy stuff. Argument: Old Remingtons (STIHL) vs. Newer Mossbergs (HusQ)
Regarding the longevity of the files. On a new chain the cutter engages the top of the file. As the cutter shortens and lowers it engages a lower portion of the file.
We’ve got the hexa chain here in Fargo, North Dakota. Been running it on my 362 with a 20 inch, my 461 with a 25 inch, and my 500i with a 36 inch. I love it man. Cute lighting fast. But I can’t get files for it. So once’s it needs to be sharpened, it’s just a round tooth. A little annoying.
Running a ms261 cm with stihl light 04 bar 16". The light 04 bar and chain really transform this saw, very smooth in the cut compared with the "grabby" standard .063 chain. cutting hardwood.
Like the boots! I’ve been wearing the fugitive from Asolo for almost 20 years since the green red yellow hippi colored version was around! Just bought my 3rd pair! My brother and I do a lot of blue spruce slabbing up here in north Idaho with his 462R so had to check the video out!
Great video with the crew. If you’re after more concrete evidence of chain performance advantages across grind types, you’re off to a solid start. All you need to add is repeated measurements provided you stage enough wood at first. You could repeat the process of cutting and timing each day, or once a week. Probably 4 observations of cutting with each chain should do it. Indoors in a controlled setting might remove more extraneous variables but going outdoors as you have would be more informative for real world differences you could expect. Also, that Norway forestry video was cooler than cool.
Some of the Norwegians and swedes are cutting a 'bird beak' into square chain with really good results in soft clean wood, but a limited amount of use to a chain since you have to grind away so much to make the shape.
I was accidentally shipped a hexa for my 291 with 20" bar. They did not accidentally ship the file, as they have none in Canada . I was impressed with the chain as my RPM held better than a Stihl RS chain. I am waiting to get a file to try it again on my new 261. PS: I blew up my 500i, broke the connecting rod. I was the first in Canada to get a 500i and probably the first to blow it up. BTW, I did get it ported, muffler mod and MaxFlow filter mod. Maybe, I pushed it a little to hard???
You and Project Farm are the only 2 people I consistently watch.
God bless you, Jake.
Thank you
@@GuiltyofTreeson I was searching through the comments for this. I would absolutely love to see you collab with him (Project Farm) in some way, shape or form. Either him or Dyno Joe Mods.
Project Farm is really good with his variety of tests. He has made me reevaluate the tools that I use.
YESS! Jed is back! always a joy to see him !
AND KEV! And.. jordan? or so? man its so long ago. cool that you still hang out!
Yes I like to see jed is ok
Jed
Yay!!!! Jed!!!!
I’m gonna move out there for Jed and Randy ❤
i miss jed. never met the guy, not one a whole lot of vids but hes mad an impact on my knowledge of things. thank you jed.
@@tedwilliams8766 absolutely!! 👍🏻
I always like to hear Jed's perspective on things.
Man we’re all going to miss you Jed. R.I.P. to a true legend. I’ve learned a lot from him on your channel and loved listening to his perspective on things! ❤
What do you mean RIP? 😔
@@saitekina_og9271he was killed at work by a hanger (a branch stuck in the tree)
The amount of information Jed had was absolutely incredible. He will be missed by many.
What happened
@@ATFisGayjed died at work, a hanger fell and hit him in the head killing him instantly when he looked up
Holy crap I didn't know that. Been a while since I stopped in and watched some videos. Hate to hear that!@@wockh
Oh man!!! RIP.. fly high💔
Is inbred jed a joke?
16 inch bars are really common in nova scotia canada too, we have trees very similar to what norway has. A 50-60cc saw with a 15 -16 inch bar is the go to set up.
All the big spruce trees are gone, the only big trees left are hardwoods close to houses.
The common setups in germany are similar. Short bars and small powerheads. 🤣🤣If you are cutting a tree with a too heavy saw and a too long bar (if your bar is over 45cm and the tree diameter isn't approximately twice the barlength) other cutters would call that a boys-contest or di**-swinging. "stand up and buck" is not very common here... 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Anything bigger than 20 or 22 inch is also rare in the UK, again the fo0to is usually 18 inch on a saw like the 560xp.
Lot less big ones left after Fiona too lol
Here in the USA they'll put 0.325" pitch 16" chain on 50cc saws and 0.375" or 3/8" pitch 16" chain on 60cc saws.
@@sebastianleicht Long bars save backs.
I've been grinding Hexa with my Oregon grinder. I had to reprofile the grinding wheel and adjust the angles on the head. It's definitely faster and seems to hold an edge very well. This chain is truly something different in regards to cutter teeth. Basically there hasn't been a change in our "modern" chain in quite a while. Thanks Jacob and Jed!
how do you reprofile the wheel? to what specs? THANK you!
@@donmayberryjrsOPE Dressing stone. I made a video on the settings for the grinder and the wheel
@@richardflagg3084 I'm in diar need of a MS661c cylinder. I screwed up a customers by installing an insert instead of a Helicoil and it didn't hold up very long. Any ideas Richard? Thanks in advance! I'll look for the vid you mentioned 👍
@@donmayberryjrsOPE Try Ebay. A used cylinder in decent shape will pop up. Also Shaun Carr has a youtube channel. He can weld up the hole, drill and tap it to original. I believe his channel is srcarr52.
@@richardflagg3084 I appreciate you reaching out to me, I'll check him out!
I'm in my late 60's and and when I was in my early 20's, 2 old loggers showed me the hex method. I've used it ever since, because how well it holds an edge, how fast it cuts and easy it is to sharpen. West Coast
Novice firewood and homestead cutter here. I have been running Oregon and Stihl full chisel and semi. Enjoy the channel and learning quite a few things in the process.
You're very blessed to have such good mentors. Between Jed and August you have such a wealth of knowledge that is just a phone call away. Love the videos Jake. Climb high and stay safe.
My takeaway from this video is that round file is the best choice overall, because that is what I wanted to hear from the get-go.
Hey, it's not just the file it's the shape / chain to be filed too! You don't put a square peg in a round hole!
Hello Jacob. Florida here😊. I love this post. Ive been professionally sharping chain for years. Did them all. In my opinion, there's nothing better than a square profile. Hexa and standard square have very little difference and its in the gullet. These profiles are the smoothest, longer lasting, and unbiased to grain direction ive ever used. Changing the top plate angle to 10 or 15 degrees allows me rip cut and cross cut with no effort. Concerning your perspective on raker heights, that's critical to performance. The testosterone fueled idea of dropping the rakers to take out more "meat" to speed things up is 😂. It puts unreasonable amounts of stress on the power head and user. Who the heck wants to use a saw that digs, vibrates, binds up constantly and fatigues the operator??? Thats a disater waiting to happen, especially when a controlled surgical cut is needed. Anyhow. Thanks for the great posts. Stay humble and be safe.
Sounds like it's time to UA-cam a trip to the Stihl factory in Germany!!! Good seeing 'Inbred Jed,' he always seems like such a chill guy and so knowledgeable.
I just noticed Jed’s Icons. Makes me feel so much better about some extra comfort his family may have in their faith.
Yes, I do have comfort in the faith. they are orthodox Christian :)
@@GuiltyofTreeson
Way to go, bro. 🫶🏻
Thank you for that video, it proofs, what i just "felt".
I just tested the hexa a few days before. It cuts very well. Didn't measure it, but it feels faster than the rounfiled but way slower than the squarefiled (handfiled, can't afford a simington) chain. But it feels very grabby. It easily grabbed some 30cm diameter oak and hornbeam with 60 cm length which i was cutting in half, lifted it and threw it to my knees.. (short bar 45cm on a 362C-M).
Borecuts feel smoother than roundground but again not as smooth as square. The same with cuts along the fibres and through knots. When limbing it feels a bit rough in the moment you hit the wood but in the cut it's very fast and smooth. In dirty wood it dulls as fast an the roundground chain.
I think it is a nice "in between" for all who want the advantages close to squaredrind without learning to handfile it or buy a simington.
Greetings from germany
When I tested hexa, it was faster than square but slower than round. Could it be the wood? I was cutting some very soft softwood, cannot remember what. But hexa is VERY easy to file!
So cool to hear Jed mention Sohner Tree Service. I started there in '77 still climbing. Your a great resource, Really enjoy the videos
It's awesome to see Jed in your videos! Awesome friendship you guys have.
Great information you put out, and hearing different peoples perspectives in new(old) technology is nice as well.
They had this chain years and years ago! I remember it well and it never was better than the round cut then either.
Awesome buddy . Chainsaw chain can sure be a minefield for sure but in my experience it’s wood specific the type of chain you run . Great stuff Jacob. God bless ya .
Good information! As a homeowner, will probably just stick with round. Love the video!
For the last 15 years i have filed my Flat top chains with a 3 sided file they do really good
Pretty sure the rakers being slanted to the side are to control not just amount of top depth removed but also side depth removed. Maybe the tooth shape has some tendency to pull the chain sideways, so the side-raker keeps the chain properly straight in the bar groove. Also, as for speed... the round filed chain look decently more filed down which makes it a lighter chain, thus faster to spin. Couldn't tell that well tho. Personally i like to file from the other side of the tooth (opposite direction). It's not easy to do, but i believe it cuts off the chrome more cleanly.
Take care ~
I own a tree service in Beaumont Texas and I have done some testing and I use the Stihl 33 RM which is the round tooth chain and it does cut fraction slower than the square tooth which is 33 RS . But the bad thing about the square tooth chain when it gets slightly dull it cuts curves and dulls faster in dirty wood. The round top will cut nails into and keep cutting and easier to sharpen. Square chain has to make sure any scratch or damaged tooth has to be filed completely out or it still won't cut right.
Really what your testing is the self 'feed' rate. The round chain had a quite aggressive inner top plate angle. Testing chain is very tricky...🤯
I have been cutting and bucking firewood for the past 38 years. 5 years ago I went to the timberline Sharpening system, will never hand file a saw again. I run 7 different saws, stihl, husky, Jonsered and echo, I favor the echo. 5 of my saw friends now sharpen with the timberline system. Chain lasts 4 to 5 times longer along with tooth consistency.
I have a Stihl 025 that originally had a 16 inch bar and chain that is .063 gauge. It was used when i got it but instead of having the 3/8 pitch it has .325 pitch and i put a 18 inch bar and skip tooth chain on it. Great little saw and has great power and torque for only being 45cc. I also have an old homelite super XL 925 with a 34 inch bar and chain
YESSSSIRRRR JED is back
Its is really common here in Europe to come across shorter bars in combination with thick chain (1,6mm = 0.63 in), mainly for the reason that there is a lot of hard tree species. Second factor would be that there is not an option of getting half/full skip chains over here, therefore you would need powerful (and heavy) powerhead for bar lengths over 60cm (24 inch). After all, you either won´t come across such a big tree, or the tree would be protected as a national/memorable tree, to need such length very often ,so you would just end up calling a guy with 084 to send it down for you
Chainsawbars sell half/full skip chains and they're UK based.
@@Ben-fk9ey nice to know, sadly I would pay same price for shipping as I would for like six or seven 28" chains. And they only offer one type in 3/8".
@@Ben-fk9ey uk isnt really europe, they live in there own bubble
@@alexstromberg7696 did you say rubble?!?!🤫😁🤣
We all love seeing Jed on the channel. Of course I appreciate you doing everything you've been doing traveling showing us all these different types of tree companies and people and tools of the trade and the various scales and sizes all around the country/world. Its been awesome to watch and I'm sure such a beautiful exciting thing to experience on your end. You're killing it Jake. Keep it up I tune in for every video. Hopefully you and Jed get to spend some more time together and bring him on the channel to share his wealth of knowledge. Love it. Thanks man
I asked my local shop here on the East Coast of Canada about the Hexa chain a few months ago, they looked at me like I had 10 heads, interesting to see how the aggressive tooth holds its edge, it looks far quicker to sharpen / maintain (as you eluded to)
perhaps one of the reasons we more experienced sawyers have such a negative impression of round chain when it performs so comparably well when sharp is that the concave cutting edge is a slightly less supported edge and therefore doesn't keep sharp as well over time. The first couple cuts are great, but it doesn't stay as well over many cuts, and we are sensitive to that slight reduction in speed, whereas a good square grind has a more supported edge because of geometry and can maintain its sharpness slightly better requiring less frequent sharpening to maintain.
I wonder if at the microns closest to the edge which is what counts, that angle actually makes the slightest bit of difference. One thing that makes a huge difference is good quality steel and the difference between a cheap steel and a best quality heat treated steel blade edge from say Sheffield, England or Germany is really stunning! Swiss blades now, I m o, are all talking and no lederhosen! 🩳 (Sorry no "leader" emojis). 😂 Maybe this Norwegian home-made chain will need less frequent sharpening to UA-cam the high grade of steel it may be made from!
Love seeing all of Jed’s icons up on his wall.
Interesting to see the difference between the cuts, the speed at which they cut, and the final product being as smooth as it was; especially with a hexa chain it look like the cut was very smooth, leave very little ripple. This would be great for slab cutting.
Round all day ya know. Biggest smoothest bite
Awesome video Jacob!!!! I was really looking forward to this and it did not disappoint. I am working on running some square ground for the first time, otherwise round ground.
The square ground chain cuts straight but it creates a larger kerf because the sharp side plate acts like side planer in a way and removes more material side to side.
I learned a lot from this video. Like 120 - 15 = 105, or thereabouts. LOL All kidding aside, love the chain tech review sessions.
Oh goodie....looks like I got a spam reply to my comment, Jake. Think I could borrow one of your chainsaws with a hex chain to cut this spammers cojones off?
That’s awsome can’t wait for the stihl hexa chain. I tried getting at 3 local stihl dealers here in Kentucky none in stock. Said they are having some supply chain issues looks like the hexa maybe a lot easier to sharpen and stay sharp a little longer. Thanks for the post I’ve been watching all your videos and trying to stay current
Jed always has some great input
Awesome Video Jacob!! It was cool to see that chain!👍🏻 Also good to see Jed on the video!
You and Jed are like peanut butter and jelly. Miss the old videos sometimes so nice to see collabs
Yeah Jed… great to see you in this one… gotta go back and watch the handfile your square grind video again…
It “wood” be interesting to use the hexa-file to convert a round chain with the standard rakers vs the “offset” rakers of the factory hexa
I've done that - I didn't time the cuts, I just counted the frames. Was VERY surprised that the round filed chain was the fastest - will stay with round files for now!
ua-cam.com/video/iM0axEqk3jc/v-deo.html
Oh that’d be super interesting.
@@anthonycima7 if you’re into saw chain performance (and not everyone is) it could be worthwhile. Then again it might be pointless- never know unless you try it
I suspect the offset rakers are why the hexa stays in the kerf better just like the round file chain. The square ground has the working corner kind of peaking out from behind the raker letting it grab new wood outside the kerf hence slowing it down if not guided properly.
I bet the hexa won’t dull as bad either having the raker right in front of the tooth.
….My thoughts….
I was running this saw for about 2 hours at about a 30-50% duty cycle ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and it did a great job. I used the lever for the built in sharpener to clear chip buildup out more than to actually sharpen the chain. It managed to cut some hardwood stumps much larger than it's size without bothering the neighbors with hours of 2 stroke noise.
You've talked me into sticking with what I use; round grind lol
If the best advantage to the hexa is .5 seconds on an average log, it's literally a "no brainer." 😂
Skip tooth round file is what i have always used.
There's an easy way to test chainsaw chain and remove almost all other variables so you get clear results. What you do is get a bunch of 4x4 or 6x6 lumber from the store, and stack them up either in a 3x3, 4x4, or 5x5 configuration (depending on what log diameter you're trying to simulate and what bar you're using). Then ratchet strap them together in at least two spots. Now you have a very consistent "log" of wood that you can test your chain cut speed on. Then either drill a hole through the end of the bar behind the sprocket, or maybe knock a rivet out and stick a pin through the bar. Then you get a known weight around 5-10 pounds and use some chain to hang it off the pin at the end of the bar. This will allow you to just one hand support the back of the saw, while the weight at the nose of the bar applies consistent pressure through each cut. Then I would make at least 10 full cuts per chain, giving you nice consistent data sets for all the chains. There you go, as close as you can get to a perfect experiment with all variables completely controlled for, isolating just the differences in chain performance. Props to Project Farm for giving us some of his ideas for testing methodology.
Project farm is a beast
Everything taken in consideration, my takeaway is that the round chain is the way to go.
Maybe that lab testing could be a side channel. I'm always impressed with how in depth you test things. That round can be better if you ain't scared to change pitch and depth on the grind. It can get wild
Cool test! But I’ll stick with my round filed chain! Especially up here Yukon Canada, we don’t have lots of choices or availability on stuff like that!!
Good video!!
Cheers
Thanks for taking time to compare- I'll just stay w/ old round filing be doing long long time- My problem is Carpal tunnel hands go numb So trying to research some sort jig-
It's real nice to see Jed back again!!!! All different types of chain have to be used on the same saw, with the same operator over long periods of time in order to get an accurate over view of all the testing of the individual Chains!!!! And you will still get different opinions from various individuals!!! Its going to be hard to get a general consensus on all the chains ... I know everyone was smiling when they saw how fast Jeds hand filed chain was cutting!!! It's hard to beat hand sharpening, if you do a good job like Jed does!!!!!! Hand filing Is always sharper, but it loses that extra touch quicker.
Thanks for the demonstration Jake. I learn alot on your Channel,and what I learn I remember. Youve saved me much trail and error. A very good analysis of Chains at the end of Video.
Really awesome seeing and hearing from Jed again! Been a while
Think of it this way; the hex cut is the same effect a a tanto style knife blade tip and the round file is liek a standard drop point knife blade tip. The tanto is popular for its much higher durability since the tip angle is not nearly as sharp or pointy. It may only cut the same, but it should last a lot longer b/w filings.
Great to see Jed back!👍🏻
one variable that I noticed, even though you are using the same log, would be how long ago was the end of the old maple initially cut? I know you said it was old and hard but even still a fresh foot off of the end before the test would have given a fairer playing field. Or at least they seemed to get quicker as you got further into it
Sweet shootout! It'd be interesting to see how the Stihl Hexa compares to my Homemade Hexa using the 3 sided file.
Add in all the micro chisel semi chisel and chipper chains
Would have liked to see an average of at least three cuts per chain, this doesn't rule out inconsistencies in the wood but it helps normalize the data. We don't know if any of those cuts were the best that chain can offer, the worst or representative of normal use (aka average). Comparing the square cuts worst to the round cuts best isn't really a comparison. We can't really make any conclusions from this experiment besides square cut doesn't like to cut straight and chains out of the box suck
As for what matieral to cut for consistency and comparison sake, it might sound weird but hdf (high density fiberboard) or mdf (medium density fiberboard). I'd get some sheets, cut down to 12" wide, laminate the sheets together until you have something like a 12x12" "log" of mostly homogenous matieral. It's, obviously, completely different from a log, but it is cuttable with a chainsaw and should yield consistent results. Potential issue with the glue gumming up the works, may need to clean bar between chains, and hdf is going to be pretty rough on the chains, there's potential to see increasing cut times on each pass due to wear, however that provides an additional opportunity to test for how each chain type wears, which is great to know.
I always think of Jed whenever I sharpen my chains - He will definitely be remembered
I think where the square shines over round is in green wood. Good test and interesting results
JEDD!!!! HELL YEAH! So glad to see that guy on camera!
"I trust the Norwegians, dude" :-) :-) :-) love from Norway.
Love yer love of all the saws and tree work. carpenter from Cali that wanted to be a faller as a kid. I like old orange saws but really like them all and enjoy learning about them. Cheers from Santa Cruz mountains
Passed the jed test. I like it.
I have a chain tool for fitting motorcycle chains. There are a few styles. They tend to work on the principle of mushrooming the link pin after it's intserted. Pins for bike chains have taperd shoulders, though, not straight.
That’s a fantastic video buddy!!!! Can’t wait to get a loop and get to play too!!!
Thanks!
Was excited to see this chain run. Adding Jed in is just cherry on the top.
Happy to see Jed again.
Great video.
Here in Spain and Portugal is very common the Sthil Smi-chizel chains. Also 16" bars are common to, in fact 6 months ago I buy the Stihl MSA300 and it comes with a 16"bar later I buy the 18" extra.
I just audibly exclaimed "Yes!" when I saw the video in my recommended.
Keep it up, Jake! I really appreciate the effort you've had to go through these past months / couple years.
Jesus Loves You, Brother.
Thank you man Jesus loves you too! :)
Great video Jacob! Good to see Jed again.
Great comparison, FYI you can grind hexa with a standard grinder just reshaping the wheel.
I just sharpened a chain successful for the first time with this as background noise, and then proceeded to start my cold craftsman with 2 pulls like an absolute boss 😂
Another great video thanks for the comparison Jake! I always wondered what the time difference would be… Have you seen the new files with the built-in flat file for rakers? They actually work pretty slick from an efficiency standpoint because you can both file the chain and the Rakers at the same time. Look forward to the next one!
I rarely sharpen in the woods.. but when I do it with that stihl combo unit. You're wedged on a tailgate or if you're lucky have a stump vise that tool is amazing at helping you keep it consistent. And it'll kiss any high rakers at the same time.
When working in the woods most loggers know how to make a bar vise out of a stump and a wedge.
I filed with a mill bastard file for awhile and was pleased with the results. I hope this becomes available in the states soon
$100 for a 32 inch loop that’s way too rich for my blood thanks for the video brother much love!
To be fair it was also in another country famous for having high prices, and it was 2 separate chains and came with a file. I bet if it came to the states officially, if you got the chain without the file it would be closer to 60 dollars for a 30-36” chain
Great to see Jed!!!!
Of course they like short bars....see the Tekos they cut...small diameter reprod...great video thank you!!!.....think I'll stay with my Simington swing arm....get a great square grind cuts great....Shoe in SW Oregon ...Good to see Jed is back.
Great video bud, round is my choice.
You could use six by sixes strapped together and be selective not to use ones with Knots in them there’s you’re consistent media. Also you should weigh the chains. the rakers have a different profile on the four chains that you tested. A lighter chain will go faster because the Saw isn’t working as hard to pull it. It’d be great to find out if you could use the hex of file and re-file a round chain. There are a lot of variables but with each test you learn new things. Love watching your videos. Love that Jed too !
One test you should do is the difference between "wet" fresh dropped trees to ones that have been down for a year or so. In my experience the dryer trees cut better with round filing
Glad to see Jed. My favorite videos include Jed
I'm an amateur, just taking care of my own property, cutting my own firewood, so my perspective is different... I don't think I'd notice a few seconds per cut as I rarely run more than two tanks of fuel in a day. But I have invested some time and energy in setting up to keep my chains sharp. Even a dub like me can get frustrated by a dull chain.
So the test I'd like to see is a straightforward comparison of ease and speed of sharpening the different profiles.
Currently I use round chains as I have a bench grinder set up to do the major sharpening and I can easily touch it up in the field.
Also, I feel like the curved rakers account for the older straight-style disadvantages. Whenever someone files the raker, anyone should account for 1-2% of error: because we aren't computers. So if they're winged-out to the side, my guess is that when filed: They counter-act cutting left or right just as much as a mushrooming bar would/over-filing on a straight raker? Minimalizing user-error, keeping a straighter cut, at the sacrifice of more drag? You paid more for "dummy-proof metal?"
An old man said: Huskys been around for 300 years now. They've gotta have made the stuff to be dummy proof by now? (anyone can break a husky in 5 minutes doing the wrong thing, lots of external parts exposed; Lawn Mower Spindles that cant get the grease to the bearings? come on guys.) IMO: HusQ has generalized products, with alot of collaborative design (545)
STIHL: Been around for a hundred years, has 2x more safety features, but expects the operator to be on their A-Game if you want to perform. The moment you stop paying attention, you'll screw up. Stihl has a little more leeway with mistakes. HusQ doesn't. Hit your chain brake once and you might see clutch-drum-shrapnel go flying. IMO: STIHL focuses on one thing: Small Engines and user-comfort. Design-Worthy stuff.
Argument: Old Remingtons (STIHL) vs. Newer Mossbergs (HusQ)
like round for slash clean up and fire wood...skip chisel for falling....great stuff..
How do you not keep a round file with your saw tools?
Regarding the longevity of the files. On a new chain the cutter engages the top of the file. As the cutter shortens and lowers it engages a lower portion of the file.
Nice to Jed again! Interesting video Jacob 👍
The hexa files are about £8 each in the UK.
We’ve got the hexa chain here in Fargo, North Dakota. Been running it on my 362 with a 20 inch, my 461 with a 25 inch, and my 500i with a 36 inch. I love it man. Cute lighting fast. But I can’t get files for it. So once’s it needs to be sharpened, it’s just a round tooth. A little annoying.
Running a ms261 cm with stihl light 04 bar 16". The light 04 bar and chain really transform this saw, very smooth in the cut compared with the "grabby" standard .063 chain. cutting hardwood.
Like the boots! I’ve been wearing the fugitive from Asolo for almost 20 years since the green red yellow hippi colored version was around! Just bought my 3rd pair! My brother and I do a lot of blue spruce slabbing up here in north Idaho with his 462R so had to check the video out!
Can you do a video on how long your different chains are keeping there sharpness?
Great video with the crew. If you’re after more concrete evidence of chain performance advantages across grind types, you’re off to a solid start. All you need to add is repeated measurements provided you stage enough wood at first. You could repeat the process of cutting and timing each day, or once a week. Probably 4 observations of cutting with each chain should do it.
Indoors in a controlled setting might remove more extraneous variables but going outdoors as you have would be more informative for real world differences you could expect.
Also, that Norway forestry video was cooler than cool.
Some of the Norwegians and swedes are cutting a 'bird beak' into square chain with really good results in soft clean wood, but a limited amount of use to a chain since you have to grind away so much to make the shape.
Looks to me like I can continue with my round file.. bless for the info and tests 👍🏼👍🏼
I was accidentally shipped a hexa for my 291 with 20" bar. They did not accidentally ship the file, as they have none in Canada . I was impressed with the chain as my RPM held better than a Stihl RS chain. I am waiting to get a file to try it again on my new 261. PS: I blew up my 500i, broke the connecting rod. I was the first in Canada to get a 500i and probably the first to blow it up. BTW, I did get it ported, muffler mod and MaxFlow filter mod. Maybe, I pushed it a little to hard???