My wife has a Honda pilot and it had an average sound system, and a lot of road noise. We took it on vacation and I hated the vehicle because of the noise. We had a planned trip to Disney for the next summer so I decided to upgrade the sound system and sound treat the car. I had the car professionally undercoated, and replaced all the speakers with premium speakers and added a powered sub under each of the front seats. My son and I gutted the car one weekend while my wife was out of town. We treated all the floor area, inside the doors and cavities. In the hatch we used neoprene floor mat and rubber mounting glue, we also did this in the spare tire storage, and large body cavities. We also used DEP expanding foam insulation in the tight spots in the body structure. I admit we went full overkill but the results were unbelievable. We let the car sit with the windows open for two or three days. My wife was shocked when she drove the car. A friend tuned one sub to pickup where the door speakers dropped off, and the other to handle the deep lows. I underestimated the value of sound deadening, but it was so worth it. I would do my vehicle, except I drive a soft top Jeep so it probably wouldn’t help so much. Maybe the next car.
I had a long phonecall with the owner of Hushmat and he said you only need 80% coverage. Anything more just adds unnecessary weight. He is a degreed acoustical engineer, and before he started Hushmat he designed noise control packages for OEM carmakers. He said that shops that apply 100% coverage do so because they don’t want the customer to feel they are getting ripped off. Above 80% there is no further benefit. Adding weight to a vehicle has effects on fuel economy, handling, and other factors. He further said it’s critical to seal holes in the firewall - sound sprays through them into the interior like a firehose through any small openings. I have been using this Soundshield on my customer’s cars and it saves installation time - you no longer need to apply a Hushmat or Dynamat type product, and then apply closed-cell foam on top.
Sound treatment also makes the vehicle feel more premium. Feels more solid and better isolated from road noise. It's one of those upgrades that once you've done, you'll always want.
@@charlieaydin1377 Huge. Even a modest treatment will make it feel like a completely different vehicle. It's hard to explain here but once you feel it it's unmistakable.
Yeah 100% worth it. Not only is it great for keeping the sound in the car. But its great for outside car noise even with no music on. All around 100% worth. Also nice for when i bump in my driveway without disturbing my neighbors. Dont want to be "that guy" who's car is shaking and the neighbors are kept up at night when im listening in car. Nothing is more annoying that rattling noises while listening
Thanks buddy, subscribed. I did this more for a minor rattle in my car door, ended up doing your “wiggle test on all the exposed wires (which were not many) on a new Mazda. Put foam on any potential contact points and TESA Tape on as much of the plastic clips as possible. My car door is dead silent now. Freaking love it.
I deadened my truck doors and cut out a lot of road noise. I went through the trouble to measure the road noise with a calibrated microphone and an app on my smartphone to get a before and after. On smooth roads at low speed it made very little difference. But at interstate speeds on a rough road the difference was substantial.
I just installed sound treating to all doors, trunk and floors and OMG is it making a difference. It took me just 3 years to decide to do it lol. Installed HU, AMP, speakers and sub awhile ago and finally treated with sound deadening, wish I did it sooner. I gotta thank CAF for tutorials and making me believe I can do it lol
So that's how I'm going to feel after 3 years and all the work done to my car once I sound deaden...Alright alright now I'm even more eager to receive my sound deadening :)
Differnece in road noise? I did my doors and back wheel arches once and didn't make that much of an improvement in blocking road noise, slight but hardly worth the effort. Didn't use very thick dampener though which might have made a difference. But i Wonder if youd really need to do the floors too.. thats a lot more work...
Sound deadening, much like others have said, is crucial and underrated. The benefit of it is two-fold. As he demonstrated in the video, it can eliminate resonance, aka "the clang". This helps minimize sympathetic vibration in the area where the material is applied. This will lower the noise floor in the car, but where it will it have massive impact is in the doors. When applied in the doors, it concentrates the surface area making audible sound to the actual speakers. This will lower noise, lower phase cancellation, allow the front stage to really manifest. Imaging will improve across the board, especially with additional time-alignment. The second thing this sound treatment does is add mass. Mass loading an object lowers its resonant frequency. Why does this matter? Say the untreated metal in your inner doors loves to resonate at different locations between 50-80hz. Throw your speakers in those doors and good lord the buzzing and rattles and shoddy imaging. Add the sound deadening material and the mass of the metal has increased, which lowers the frequency it inherently wants to resonate at. In some cases you can mass load to lower this by 2 octaves or more. Say you got that in those same doors.... now they resonate at 12.5hz to 20hz. Now you can put those same speakers in that door and it will sound pristine with no buzzes.... even full range. This lets you do some creative things tuning the car. Less noise? Lower gains on the amps. Less gain? Less speaker excursion in a given bandwidth. Less excursion? Cross your fronts over lower, getting more of the bass in front of you. Cross your sub over lower and be able to bump the gain in the sub-30hz material without overrunning your mid-bass. This, of course, more of a sound quality setup.
I did this for aircraft, we dont cover every square inch we just did the flat open areas, the change is amazing if you walked from the shop floor with 80-90 rivet guns going to inside the small business jet even with the doors open. If you got the money do it you dont really need to be focused on a stereo setup to enjoy the benefits.
Before youtube and this channel my first experience with dynamat went very well. I didn't do a cover all but I did hit those important areas just like Mark explains in this video. Great work my man! I've been watching you for a few years now. I've refined some of my skills with your guidance and wisdom. I do car audio installs as a hobby not as a profession. The leather punch is a great idea. I started using that idea recently. I usually just cut a hole with a knife by making an X then cutting off the pieces.
I won’t be able to this all at once but I did purchase a small amount of the material for the usual suspects. License plate, around the speakers, etc. I’m doing my own and taking my sweet time. Thank you for your videos. 👌
Jigmet Deskong assuming you have a regular sedan, remove your backseat. Starting from the wheel arch (the hump) go all the way up is what I would cover with sound proofing.
I always put strips along the legs of the basket of the sub/bas. Works wonders on stamped baskets. Tap a basket before and after. It rings like a bell and it's audible through the membrane. Nice video!
If you ever have your dash out you can use the slim to sound deaden the firewall, your vent tubes and your blower motor housing. Don’t forget that your glovebox and center console might need some love also.
I am In the process of doing my front doors at the moment (passengers door complete). I had an annoying vibration in my passenger door which I have now fixed and am extremely happy about. Even a little sound treatment goes a long way, as I’m doing it on a budget I was still impressed with the difference. Thanks for the great channel!
At this very moment, I have my interior removed, and I'll be doing exactly this THIS WEEK. Thanks for taking the time to do this while having no idea that I was going off of your previous videos until now.
Than do outer door layer as well . The more stiff she will be the better effect. Budget or non budget car - doors have to be done properly not like in this movie
@@4diwr0c - I'll look into that, as the doors haven't been done yet. Good thing I came back to see if he reads comments, and it didn't seem so. Thanks bro.
love your videos. learned a lot. i did the doors in my 2015 vw beetle and was surprised that VW actually had put some in it. wasnt but a few pieces, but they took the time to do it. it made a huge difference with the door panel rattles. i ve been going backwards on my system though. ive had to go back into the door a few times. speaker, the foam rings, sound deading. but when you start off telling yourself that its just going to be an upgrade, thats it. and you whined up with 2 amps, new cabin speakers and a sub. lol you get it. when i get my new, louder stuff for the rear and hatch. i will be better prepared. ty for sharing your knowledge with us.
If you are creating holes that you'd like to reinforce, like for that handle wire, try using the circle punch set to create concentric circles. An insulation "washer."
Last fall I did some sound treatment on my cargo van. The sound deadening material killed half the noise, and stopping the symphony of squeaks and rattles by wrapping all the loose parts was the other half. The van now sounds weirdly solid as I drive around.
Good to see your professional skills applied to an average ride with time and cost constraints. (Overlooking the fantastic, but pricey JL gear you are installing in the back of course.)
This does really work for better sound quality. In the early 90's in Australia there was only Dynomat available and in my Mazda 323 4wd turbo made a hell of a difference. Its the only way to dence the sounds that do rattle to become victorious in pure sound.
I sound deadened every car I had until now. It is such a big difference in sound. Next step, if it gets warmer these days, will be, that I dampen the wheelhouses where the struts are connected. I think that much road sound is coming through there.
@@dobledekersoulwrekr thanks for the tip. We have similar Produkts here in germany. Your prpduct is in red mine is in blue but dampens too. It even has thesame structure on the alufoil. The distributor is Reckhorn. Which is a little bit to thin I think. It only has 2mm instead of 4 like in the CAF-Video. But I thought it might be easier to apply if I take something like Teroson which can brushed on the sheer metall. Thonking about to being some of it alao under the floor to block roadnoise also. Its a tar like meaterial which cures on air and comes in tins. Because of the material I preferably not use it inside the vehicle. Like the doors. You can easily apply it in thick layers. And also on the not moving components of the steering system. With the last point i am not sure if it will work.
****DUDE: You forget to mention that you have to line up the letters parallel to the ground in order for the sound deadening to work properly. This allows the molecules in the sound deadening to properly orient to the car and thus control vibration accurately. Trust me...... Look me up for proper training & use for a 6x9 hole saw.
don't forget to cut your pieces into thin long strips so the north and south pole is further apart. this will give more adhesion when applying. I found that strips over 2 feet long will have the same affect as a neodymium magnet.
Sound treatment overlooking is the reason why I gave up on my last attempt at huge bass in my car. I'm trying again this year but getting the deadener and power upgrades done before even purchasing my first speaker.
A little thing I learned at work is if u use a dead blow hammer on hole punches u get a quiet hit so you can hit harder without damaging the punch since the hammer is plastic and it won't hurt ur ears either
I enjoy watching your videos , I always wanted to get a job doing custom work on cars but in AZ there really isn’t any schools that I know off. I’ve had to trial and error on my own rides. Sometimes in your videos it looks like your doing to much , but like this video compared to others Ive seen where you do the sound deadening and you don’t say if that car is a show car or not, I would presume it’s just a reg car but you do the extreme of sound proof.you state the difference in this video between going all out on a show car as to compared to an all day driver..I wouldn’t close up those bigger holes , maybe in newer cars yes but to everyone doing this to old school cars I wouldn’t recommend doing that.. the reason being is if you don’t care then do what you want to do but for others a lot of old school rides the window mechanism messes up. If you block it with sound proof your gonna have to either rip the whole piece off in attempt to put it back on which it’ll loosen the sticky ness of the adhesive or your going to have to cut a hole where you pull out the motor or the window regulator.. unless you go to the extreme like one of homies videos and make like a separate wood piece or something that gets bolted in and can be taken off at will.. I’ve worked on many older rides and there built more solid then these cheaper plastic cars so these cars have more things to rattle then old schools… other then that advice I think you give good advice on what your doing but some people need to realize it takes time and dedication and just by watching your work and how clean it is they might not get that same end result… I know from my experience trying to mimic some one else and what they where teaching it didn’t come out as clean but over time and doing it over and over I got way better.. I would like to dive deeper in all the wiring within a car , I was told especially with these new cars you have to run some type of firmware mainly when your installing alarms not so much audio but I was told you have to be very careful and know wussup bcuz if not it’s like 1 thing is connected to everything and if you pull or hit the wrong thing on accident the whole car will shut down.. is that true ?? It be interesting if you made a video about that.. anyways good work homie much respect ✊🏽
Right video at the right time. I was about to plan sound treating my Ford Ecosport. Really the best video I got from youtube. Informative& crisp. Thank you brother 💕💕. Waiting for the next video.
This is a great reminder of the sacrifices I just made to my car 😂 I used 72ft^2 of material and rolled that shit right over everything in my goddamn path 😂 granted I have 2 mystery screw clips I still don’t remember what they went to, but yeah 😂
Thank you so much I just bought some sound deadner and some aluminum tape and roller and foam insulation and I was worried I may not have enough after watching your previous videos so this video really helped. I wonder how difficult it will be to get under the carpet in the front without removing the seats.
I'd just plan on removing the seats, the 15 minutes to remove them will save a lot of effort of wrestling a carpet out of the way while you try to apply treatment.
Seriously peeps, removing and covering the moisture/pressure box is a must. HUGE amounts of noise created by this. I started doing sound deadening with Cascade back in 1994.
I'm restoring a 1997 328i. It is the first time I'm ever using sound deadening with my stereo install. Is it safe to put this stuff on fiberglass door cards?
Is it necessary to protect the back of speakers from the moisture that may be present inside the door cavity? just seems wrong to put plastic behind a speaker like some manufacturers do
@Mark....how does the new Soundshield stuff perform in comparison to the Soundskins Pro product??? MSRP appears to be close on both products...just wondering if there was any pros/cons of each one. I know that MS carries the Soundshield stuff now...is that why you went with the Soundshield over the Soundskins you've used in previous installs???
It is the same product with a new name company split in half sounds skin is still around in other countries but in the US it’s now owned by another company with its main distributor being mobile solutions with the new name
Sound deadening is crucial to improved sound quality. It’s a step that a lot of people never do and they don’t know what they’re missing until they do it. I’ve always been fond of SEM rubberized undercoating. It comes in a spray can and it’s great for large irregular surfaces. It has great sound deadening properties, it’s paintable, and it’s asphalt free. Buy a can and give it a try and let me know what you think 👍 Edit: I corrected a spelling error.
MICHAEL GRANT you can believe what you want. But I’ve been doing custom audio installations for almost 30 years and I’ve been using the SEM brand rubberized coating since 1995 and it works great. Other brands of spray coating suck ass because they go on too thin. But the SEM leaves a pretty thick coat and you can always do multiple coats to increase the thickness if you want, but it isn’t really necessary with the SEM.
You forgot to cut the window raising motor. This solution is the best because of isolation of door but not sustainable if something went wrong. Thank you the video!
Can't wait to install some sheets in my front doors, my midbass performance is terrible. My doors for most likely the same reason have that awful metallic cling as you shut them that should be featured on a "Top 5 most unsatisfying sounds" compilation. I'm sure being a relatively new car the Equinox did not have such a harsh door closing sound, as I notice most newer cars make a point on avoiding that, but did you notice any difference in the sound of the doors shutting? I'm hoping after a complete treatment the issue is solved on my older truck. You and Five Star Car Stereo definitely are the best at attention to detail as far as car audio goes, keep it up!
I’m planning on installing a complete focal utopia m sound system to the cybertruck I have on its way when it’s delivered, and sound treating it every square inch, with either Mosconi or audiocontrol amplifiers to match and a dsp (either dsp audiocontrol amplifiers or the mosconi 6to8) as a showcase car for my shop and to have an audiophile car to enjoy for myself. However, I haven’t experimented with different sound treatment options besides stinger roadkill, dynamat, and ballistic hollow point (Metra). Is there a brand you recommend amongst others, or is it all relatively the same pound for pound?
How many rolls would you think it would take to do an entire Volkswagen 4 door GTI hatchback? All doors, floor, roof, and hatch? Unless you think any of the latter are unnecessary. Thanks for all of your help. I've been binge watching your videos. Excellent content.
You dont need a 100% coverage of alubutyle. Normaly a 25% will do, but it will depends on the thickness you use. Dont forget the doors. It will increase the midbass.
even though nobody will ever see it : i like how neatly u lined up the wording on the mat instead of randomly placing it willy nilly like how some ppl do ... lol
You can, but I find this material to mold over pretty well. Keep in mind curves are the strongest point of the sheet metal, so not as critical to sound treat.
Great video! This is exactly what I'm planning for my old Mercedes. I do have a question though. Since the car gets very hot in the sun, I want to also insulate for heat. From what I found, the SoundSkinz material is only for sound insulation. Would you recommend putting the heat insulation material over the sound insulation? I want my car to more of an insulated cocoon of serenity instead of a rattly old diesel. Currently, I have to turn the radio waaay up to drown out the engine noise.
May not be what you want for a mercades but for about 1/10 the price you could use aluminum roofing rolls. It works about the same as dynomat for sound treatment and should help heat insulation aswell
Aluminum roofing rolls lose their adhesion in high heat environments. It’s because they have asphalt backing. Sound dampeners have a butyl rubber backing, that’s why they don’t have that problem. They also don’t make the inside of your car smell like tar
Hey, love your videos! But I'm wondering if there's anything you you do to the inside of the inner side of the door. I'm talking about the side we're the cone of the speaker is. Do I need to place a difusor mat or noise isolation mat there something? Thanks in advance!
Funny you mentioned not having to deal with any mechanical issue in the door. Just had to replace the rear passenger door latch assembly on my 05 Suburban. A cool $600 out the door (pun intended). lol. Thankfully I haven't put any product on it...YET!
Mark, I am very close to buying your subwoofer design services from your website. I have a question though. If the size of my area will only allow for a port up design, do you do port up boxes, as your website only has side and front firing ports?
Quick question! Do you strictly stick to new cars with warranties? Every car/truck that I've ever bought, I've eventually had to replace either a window motor, window, or opening clips. Issues in the doors happen quite often mainly because they are an impact part (open/close (slamming)) as well as moving parts that more often than not see some kind of exposure to moisture. The abs access panel is a good idea
Hey Mark. Can you make a video about, how to run new speaker cabels from the doors to the trunk. I need to do it to my car, but dont know the best way to do it.
Another good tool for making a perfect hole for any kind of gasket just use a socket depending on the size get you a socket a hammer and you're good to go
So how would I place it for a down firing sub box. Would placing it under the carpet, under the sub box work? I've never used sound mat material before and thought it was a joke but that little test made me say wow
My wife has a Honda pilot and it had an average sound system, and a lot of road noise. We took it on vacation and I hated the vehicle because of the noise. We had a planned trip to Disney for the next summer so I decided to upgrade the sound system and sound treat the car. I had the car professionally undercoated, and replaced all the speakers with premium speakers and added a powered sub under each of the front seats. My son and I gutted the car one weekend while my wife was out of town. We treated all the floor area, inside the doors and cavities. In the hatch we used neoprene floor mat and rubber mounting glue, we also did this in the spare tire storage, and large body cavities. We also used DEP expanding foam insulation in the tight spots in the body structure. I admit we went full overkill but the results were unbelievable. We let the car sit with the windows open for two or three days. My wife was shocked when she drove the car. A friend tuned one sub to pickup where the door speakers dropped off, and the other to handle the deep lows. I underestimated the value of sound deadening, but it was so worth it. I would do my vehicle, except I drive a soft top Jeep so it probably wouldn’t help so much. Maybe the next car.
I had a long phonecall with the owner of Hushmat and he said you only need 80% coverage. Anything more just adds unnecessary weight. He is a degreed acoustical engineer, and before he started Hushmat he designed noise control packages for OEM carmakers. He said that shops that apply 100% coverage do so because they don’t want the customer to feel they are getting ripped off. Above 80% there is no further benefit. Adding weight to a vehicle has effects on fuel economy, handling, and other factors. He further said it’s critical to seal holes in the firewall - sound sprays through them into the interior like a firehose through any small openings. I have been using this Soundshield on my customer’s cars and it saves installation time - you no longer need to apply a Hushmat or Dynamat type product, and then apply closed-cell foam on top.
60% coverage will give you 95% effectiveness with vibration noise in most average applications.
I always do 200 to 300% coverage...but I am weird...
@@truthseeker8483 I just put an engine on my sound deadener, makes this whole process much easier
@@stuckinthepast :D Wrap the engine in sound deadener....I need to try this!
@@stuckinthepastjust move to electric car for less noise.
Sound treatment also makes the vehicle feel more premium. Feels more solid and better isolated from road noise. It's one of those upgrades that once you've done, you'll always want.
Agree 100%
I gonna do my Audi, I’m so stoked
Im going to do my escalade.... i get the feeling its going to take like all weekend and then some lol
Im doing my 76 series landscruiser wagon. It was a tin can. How big a difference should i expect?!
@@charlieaydin1377 Huge. Even a modest treatment will make it feel like a completely different vehicle. It's hard to explain here but once you feel it it's unmistakable.
Sound treating is SOOO underrated. I always figure the cost in when I replace factory speakers, it makes an incredible difference.
SlimBob true my sdr 10s are much louder and resonant with bass
@Brian Waller yeah but your subs are junk and it's not a real 3k
Yeah 100% worth it. Not only is it great for keeping the sound in the car. But its great for outside car noise even with no music on. All around 100% worth.
Also nice for when i bump in my driveway without disturbing my neighbors. Dont want to be "that guy" who's car is shaking and the neighbors are kept up at night when im listening in car.
Nothing is more annoying that rattling noises while listening
@@pagefour6498 hey what some good subs for a taramps 3k
@@xpert_kid_one730 you should never pair good subs with junk amps
Looks like it would be great to do that for your car even without a sound system. A quiet ride reduces stress all the time.
our shop has two bells. one with a small square of sound deadener, one without. its a very effective demonstration
Total mastery of attention to detail. Wow im speechless at the level of professionalism.
Thanks buddy, subscribed. I did this more for a minor rattle in my car door, ended up doing your “wiggle test on all the exposed wires (which were not many) on a new Mazda. Put foam on any potential contact points and TESA Tape on as much of the plastic clips as possible. My car door is dead silent now. Freaking love it.
The difference that thorough sound deadening makes is enormous.
I deadened my truck doors and cut out a lot of road noise. I went through the trouble to measure the road noise with a calibrated microphone and an app on my smartphone to get a before and after. On smooth roads at low speed it made very little difference. But at interstate speeds on a rough road the difference was substantial.
I have a first Gen Mazda 3. Those who know will agree that this is needed even without touching the sound system. I'll have this done in the spring.
I just installed sound treating to all doors, trunk and floors and OMG is it making a difference. It took me just 3 years to decide to do it lol. Installed HU, AMP, speakers and sub awhile ago and finally treated with sound deadening, wish I did it sooner. I gotta thank CAF for tutorials and making me believe I can do it lol
So that's how I'm going to feel after 3 years and all the work done to my car once I sound deaden...Alright alright now I'm even more eager to receive my sound deadening :)
I'm considering sound treating my escalade.. do I have to do the roof?
Differnece in road noise? I did my doors and back wheel arches once and didn't make that much of an improvement in blocking road noise, slight but hardly worth the effort. Didn't use very thick dampener though which might have made a difference. But i Wonder if youd really need to do the floors too.. thats a lot more work...
Sound deadening, much like others have said, is crucial and underrated. The benefit of it is two-fold.
As he demonstrated in the video, it can eliminate resonance, aka "the clang". This helps minimize sympathetic vibration in the area where the material is applied. This will lower the noise floor in the car, but where it will it have massive impact is in the doors. When applied in the doors, it concentrates the surface area making audible sound to the actual speakers. This will lower noise, lower phase cancellation, allow the front stage to really manifest. Imaging will improve across the board, especially with additional time-alignment.
The second thing this sound treatment does is add mass. Mass loading an object lowers its resonant frequency. Why does this matter? Say the untreated metal in your inner doors loves to resonate at different locations between 50-80hz. Throw your speakers in those doors and good lord the buzzing and rattles and shoddy imaging. Add the sound deadening material and the mass of the metal has increased, which lowers the frequency it inherently wants to resonate at. In some cases you can mass load to lower this by 2 octaves or more. Say you got that in those same doors.... now they resonate at 12.5hz to 20hz. Now you can put those same speakers in that door and it will sound pristine with no buzzes.... even full range.
This lets you do some creative things tuning the car. Less noise? Lower gains on the amps. Less gain? Less speaker excursion in a given bandwidth. Less excursion? Cross your fronts over lower, getting more of the bass in front of you. Cross your sub over lower and be able to bump the gain in the sub-30hz material without overrunning your mid-bass. This, of course, more of a sound quality setup.
Bro this is the only channel ever where a 15 inch sub is a better demonstration of scale then a banana or a ruler
I did this for aircraft, we dont cover every square inch we just did the flat open areas, the change is amazing if you walked from the shop floor with 80-90 rivet guns going to inside the small business jet even with the doors open. If you got the money do it you dont really need to be focused on a stereo setup to enjoy the benefits.
Before youtube and this channel my first experience with dynamat went very well. I didn't do a cover all but I did hit those important areas just like Mark explains in this video. Great work my man! I've been watching you for a few years now. I've refined some of my skills with your guidance and wisdom. I do car audio installs as a hobby not as a profession. The leather punch is a great idea. I started using that idea recently. I usually just cut a hole with a knife by making an X then cutting off the pieces.
I won’t be able to this all at once but I did purchase a small amount of the material for the usual suspects. License plate, around the speakers, etc. I’m doing my own and taking my sweet time. Thank you for your videos. 👌
doing the doors makes the biggest difference outright.
Covering the shock tower reduces the road noise tremendously.
Tariq Khan are you referring to under the hood?
@@guitaristwagner no.. rear shock towers, from inside the car.
@Tariq khan i m satisfied with your suggestion can you elaborate for more understanding.
Thank you
Jigmet Deskong assuming you have a regular sedan, remove your backseat. Starting from the wheel arch (the hump) go all the way up is what I would cover with sound proofing.
Hey brother do u mean the shock it self or the metal srounding the shocks from outside of the car ? Sorry im not that good in english
I always put strips along the legs of the basket of the sub/bas. Works wonders on stamped baskets. Tap a basket before and after. It rings like a bell and it's audible through the membrane.
Nice video!
If you ever have your dash out you can use the slim to sound deaden the firewall, your vent tubes and your blower motor housing.
Don’t forget that your glovebox and center console might need some love also.
I would love to hire this guy if I wasn’t such a DIYer. Great work!
@Kev O.
I would love to hire him if I wasn't on another continent😂
paveldaddy same 😂
I am In the process of doing my front doors at the moment (passengers door complete). I had an annoying vibration in my passenger door which I have now fixed and am extremely happy about. Even a little sound treatment goes a long way, as I’m doing it on a budget I was still impressed with the difference. Thanks for the great channel!
At this very moment, I have my interior removed, and I'll be doing exactly this THIS WEEK. Thanks for taking the time to do this while having no idea that I was going off of your previous videos until now.
Than do outer door layer as well . The more stiff she will be the better effect. Budget or non budget car - doors have to be done properly not like in this movie
@@4diwr0c - I'll look into that, as the doors haven't been done yet. Good thing I came back to see if he reads comments, and it didn't seem so.
Thanks bro.
@@NeverMetTheGuy hey men how it turns out to be good ?
love your videos. learned a lot. i did the doors in my 2015 vw beetle and was surprised that VW actually had put some in it. wasnt but a few pieces, but they took the time to do it. it made a huge difference with the door panel rattles. i ve been going backwards on my system though. ive had to go back into the door a few times. speaker, the foam rings, sound deading. but when you start off telling yourself that its just going to be an upgrade, thats it. and you whined up with 2 amps, new cabin speakers and a sub. lol you get it. when i get my new, louder stuff for the rear and hatch. i will be better prepared. ty for sharing your knowledge with us.
Hey Mark what foam do you use to wrap those wires which run inside the front doors what type of is ideal . thanks
If you are creating holes that you'd like to reinforce, like for that handle wire, try using the circle punch set to create concentric circles. An insulation "washer."
Last fall I did some sound treatment on my cargo van. The sound deadening material killed half the noise, and stopping the symphony of squeaks and rattles by wrapping all the loose parts was the other half. The van now sounds weirdly solid as I drive around.
Good to see your professional skills applied to an average ride with time and cost constraints. (Overlooking the fantastic, but pricey JL gear you are installing in the back of course.)
You do very meticulous work better then the average custom installer keep it up
This does really work for better sound quality.
In the early 90's in Australia there was only Dynomat available and in my Mazda 323 4wd turbo made a hell of a difference.
Its the only way to dence the sounds that do rattle to become victorious in pure sound.
I sound deadened every car I had until now. It is such a big difference in sound. Next step, if it gets warmer these days, will be, that I dampen the wheelhouses where the struts are connected. I think that much road sound is coming through there.
For sure. I used a product called Membrane from Restomod Air on my exterior wheel houses. Made a large difference
@@dobledekersoulwrekr thanks for the tip. We have similar Produkts here in germany. Your prpduct is in red mine is in blue but dampens too. It even has thesame structure on the alufoil. The distributor is Reckhorn. Which is a little bit to thin I think. It only has 2mm instead of 4 like in the CAF-Video.
But I thought it might be easier to apply if I take something like Teroson which can brushed on the sheer metall. Thonking about to being some of it alao under the floor to block roadnoise also. Its a tar like meaterial which cures on air and comes in tins. Because of the material I preferably not use it inside the vehicle. Like the doors.
You can easily apply it in thick layers. And also on the not moving components of the steering system. With the last point i am not sure if it will work.
Good points about covering the whole door and services access points... Was 2 minded, definitely gonna fill those up
****DUDE: You forget to mention that you have to line up the letters parallel to the ground in order for the sound deadening to work properly. This allows the molecules in the sound deadening to properly orient to the car and thus control vibration accurately. Trust me......
Look me up for proper training & use for a 6x9 hole saw.
Lol...
:D
don't forget to cut your pieces into thin long strips so the north and south pole is further apart. this will give more adhesion when applying. I found that strips over 2 feet long will have the same affect as a neodymium magnet.
@@Mrbigcrush100 I just jam some in my ears...cuts out all noise...
jay stew YES! Directional sound treatment for the win! Directional solder is HUGE in China
I love this dude!! He and EXO are the Socrates and Plato of audio!🙏🏽
Special clear tape is genius.
Sound treatment overlooking is the reason why I gave up on my last attempt at huge bass in my car. I'm trying again this year but getting the deadener and power upgrades done before even purchasing my first speaker.
A little thing I learned at work is if u use a dead blow hammer on hole punches u get a quiet hit so you can hit harder without damaging the punch since the hammer is plastic and it won't hurt ur ears either
I enjoy watching your videos , I always wanted to get a job doing custom work on cars but in AZ there really isn’t any schools that I know off. I’ve had to trial and error on my own rides. Sometimes in your videos it looks like your doing to much , but like this video compared to others Ive seen where you do the sound deadening and you don’t say if that car is a show car or not, I would presume it’s just a reg car but you do the extreme of sound proof.you state the difference in this video between going all out on a show car as to compared to an all day driver..I wouldn’t close up those bigger holes , maybe in newer cars yes but to everyone doing this to old school cars I wouldn’t recommend doing that.. the reason being is if you don’t care then do what you want to do but for others a lot of old school rides the window mechanism messes up. If you block it with sound proof your gonna have to either rip the whole piece off in attempt to put it back on which it’ll loosen the sticky ness of the adhesive or your going to have to cut a hole where you pull out the motor or the window regulator.. unless you go to the extreme like one of homies videos and make like a separate wood piece or something that gets bolted in and can be taken off at will.. I’ve worked on many older rides and there built more solid then these cheaper plastic cars so these cars have more things to rattle then old schools… other then that advice I think you give good advice on what your doing but some people need to realize it takes time and dedication and just by watching your work and how clean it is they might not get that same end result… I know from my experience trying to mimic some one else and what they where teaching it didn’t come out as clean but over time and doing it over and over I got way better.. I would like to dive deeper in all the wiring within a car , I was told especially with these new cars you have to run some type of firmware mainly when your installing alarms not so much audio but I was told you have to be very careful and know wussup bcuz if not it’s like 1 thing is connected to everything and if you pull or hit the wrong thing on accident the whole car will shut down.. is that true ?? It be interesting if you made a video about that.. anyways good work homie much respect ✊🏽
Right video at the right time. I was about to plan sound treating my Ford Ecosport. Really the best video I got from youtube. Informative& crisp.
Thank you brother 💕💕. Waiting for the next video.
Thanks for another top quality video Mark! You are an excellent teacher!
Mark's teaching skills are first nipple.
These videos are the best, I'm putting my first layer of deadner on I needed to see this
The aluminum was a paid actor 👏
This is a great reminder of the sacrifices I just made to my car 😂 I used 72ft^2 of material and rolled that shit right over everything in my goddamn path 😂 granted I have 2 mystery screw clips I still don’t remember what they went to, but yeah 😂
that roll looks eeriely similar to soundskins roll. Great vid as always.
Thank you so much I just bought some sound deadner and some aluminum tape and roller and foam insulation and I was worried I may not have enough after watching your previous videos so this video really helped. I wonder how difficult it will be to get under the carpet in the front without removing the seats.
I'd just plan on removing the seats, the 15 minutes to remove them will save a lot of effort of wrestling a carpet out of the way while you try to apply treatment.
unfortunately in a honda like mine way more than seats have to come out to remove carpet. It's a pain
Worth every penny and hour of time spent.
back in 97 I put so much dynomat in my truck, had two alpine type r 15s could barley hear it from the back but would knock neighbors loved me
Chevy Equinox: the official car of going 10 under in the passing lane.
Also the second most sold SUV crossover in America. 🤣😄
That is funny! Thank you, not as bad as Prius' though.
Seriously peeps, removing and covering the moisture/pressure box is a must. HUGE amounts of noise created by this. I started doing sound deadening with Cascade back in 1994.
What's a pressure box?
I'm restoring a 1997 328i. It is the first time I'm ever using sound deadening with my stereo install. Is it safe to put this stuff on fiberglass door cards?
Thank you! Learned so much like about corner strength, use of cloth tape, etc.
I'm planning on sound treating my Chevy Express passenger van.
Looking like I'm going to need quite a few tubes!
Just did it. Totally worth it!
Is it necessary to protect the back of speakers from the moisture that may be present inside the door cavity? just seems wrong to put plastic behind a speaker like some manufacturers do
what's your take on Lizardskin sound treatment?
The one dislike already installed their sound treatment wrong 😂
Forty Bounce the 2 extra thumbs down from his buddies that said he did it correct and not listen to Mark
😂
He could of done way better with the maintenance holes on the doors.
Kudos. Appreciate your attention to detail.
Damn dude you got tool to fix tools I had no idea how many tools there is for car audio
@Mark....how does the new Soundshield stuff perform in comparison to the Soundskins Pro product??? MSRP appears to be close on both products...just wondering if there was any pros/cons of each one. I know that MS carries the Soundshield stuff now...is that why you went with the Soundshield over the Soundskins you've used in previous installs???
I think it's the same product, just a different name.
It is the same product with a new name company split in half sounds skin is still around in other countries but in the US it’s now owned by another company with its main distributor being mobile solutions with the new name
Sound deadening is crucial to improved sound quality. It’s a step that a lot of people never do and they don’t know what they’re missing until they do it.
I’ve always been fond of SEM rubberized undercoating. It comes in a spray can and it’s great for large irregular surfaces.
It has great sound deadening properties, it’s paintable, and it’s asphalt free.
Buy a can and give it a try and let me know what you think 👍
Edit: I corrected a spelling error.
Rubberized & spray on coatings are a waste for sound deadening. You need mass to deaden sound waves and block sound waves!
MICHAEL GRANT you can believe what you want.
But I’ve been doing custom audio installations for almost 30 years and I’ve been using the SEM brand rubberized coating since 1995 and it works great.
Other brands of spray coating suck ass because they go on too thin.
But the SEM leaves a pretty thick coat and you can always do multiple coats to increase the thickness if you want, but it isn’t really necessary with the SEM.
Where did you get the foam for wrapping the wires?
Thanks for the great video
You forgot to cut the window raising motor. This solution is the best because of isolation of door but not sustainable if something went wrong. Thank you the video!
Mark, Do you prefer a wood roller over a phenolic one? You specifically mentioned a wood one in the video, so I am curious. Thanks.
Great info Mark! keep up the awesome work!
Can't wait to install some sheets in my front doors, my midbass performance is terrible. My doors for most likely the same reason have that awful metallic cling as you shut them that should be featured on a "Top 5 most unsatisfying sounds" compilation. I'm sure being a relatively new car the Equinox did not have such a harsh door closing sound, as I notice most newer cars make a point on avoiding that, but did you notice any difference in the sound of the doors shutting? I'm hoping after a complete treatment the issue is solved on my older truck. You and Five Star Car Stereo definitely are the best at attention to detail as far as car audio goes, keep it up!
Yeah, adding mass will make the doors sound more solid when you close them, economy cars nowadays try to be light weight for fuel efficiency.
Flat vs curved areas... good observation.... dint know that ... thanks
Absolutely amazing job brother, good video. 👍
How much would you generally charge for a job like this?( assuming it's the same type of car)
This is awesome , huge help how I'm going to do it this time , templates are awesome
Great info and video. Quality install. Cheers from the UK!
I’m planning on installing a complete focal utopia m sound system to the cybertruck I have on its way when it’s delivered, and sound treating it every square inch, with either Mosconi or audiocontrol amplifiers to match and a dsp (either dsp audiocontrol amplifiers or the mosconi 6to8) as a showcase car for my shop and to have an audiophile car to enjoy for myself. However, I haven’t experimented with different sound treatment options besides stinger roadkill, dynamat, and ballistic hollow point (Metra). Is there a brand you recommend amongst others, or is it all relatively the same pound for pound?
How many rolls would you think it would take to do an entire Volkswagen 4 door GTI hatchback? All doors, floor, roof, and hatch? Unless you think any of the latter are unnecessary.
Thanks for all of your help. I've been binge watching your videos. Excellent content.
If I'm only adding a subwoofer and I'm on a budget will I be fine only doing the trunk? Thanks!
Depends on several variables, but you could definitely start off with that. Do some testing over a few days and go from there.
You dont need a 100% coverage of alubutyle.
Normaly a 25% will do, but it will depends on the thickness you use.
Dont forget the doors.
It will increase the midbass.
I would think you'd get more benefit from doing only front doors.
Great video. Thank you. Can you please post a link to a closed cell foam used for wire insulation at 7.14?
even though nobody will ever see it : i like how neatly u lined up the wording on the mat instead of randomly placing it willy nilly like how some ppl do ... lol
Have you ever used a heat gun to soften the material for curves?
You can, but I find this material to mold over pretty well. Keep in mind curves are the strongest point of the sheet metal, so not as critical to sound treat.
at 8:10... will it work if i just cover that film with the insulating material?
Sir you are doing your job with more professionalism with tools. how we can do at by our self if we don't have tools.
Great video! This is exactly what I'm planning for my old Mercedes. I do have a question though.
Since the car gets very hot in the sun, I want to also insulate for heat. From what I found, the SoundSkinz material is only for sound insulation. Would you recommend putting the heat insulation material over the sound insulation?
I want my car to more of an insulated cocoon of serenity instead of a rattly old diesel. Currently, I have to turn the radio waaay up to drown out the engine noise.
May not be what you want for a mercades but for about 1/10 the price you could use aluminum roofing rolls. It works about the same as dynomat for sound treatment and should help heat insulation aswell
you need open cell foam with aluminum lining. We offer this through second skin deadener
Aluminum roofing rolls lose their adhesion in high heat environments. It’s because they have asphalt backing. Sound dampeners have a butyl rubber backing, that’s why they don’t have that problem. They also don’t make the inside of your car smell like tar
Scotty says u don’t have do anything if u have a Toyota Prius
I like perfection in work
Galing, pulido ang gawa !
Hey, love your videos! But I'm wondering if there's anything you you do to the inside of the inner side of the door. I'm talking about the side we're the cone of the speaker is. Do I need to place a difusor mat or noise isolation mat there something? Thanks in advance!
Funny you mentioned not having to deal with any mechanical issue in the door. Just had to replace the rear passenger door latch assembly on my 05 Suburban. A cool $600 out the door (pun intended). lol. Thankfully I haven't put any product on it...YET!
Mark, I am very close to buying your subwoofer design services from your website. I have a question though. If the size of my area will only allow for a port up design, do you do port up boxes, as your website only has side and front firing ports?
Quick question! Do you strictly stick to new cars with warranties? Every car/truck that I've ever bought, I've eventually had to replace either a window motor, window, or opening clips. Issues in the doors happen quite often mainly because they are an impact part (open/close (slamming)) as well as moving parts that more often than not see some kind of exposure to moisture. The abs access panel is a good idea
Hey thanks for such a informative video.
Got to know some really helpful tips and tricks...
Hey Mark. Can you make a video about, how to run new speaker cabels from the doors to the trunk. I need to do it to my car, but dont know the best way to do it.
A cada vídeo, um aprendizado, sou muito seu fã, vc é o melhor 🚗👏👏👏
Does this really make a difference for mid base? Is it worth spending the money?
This is specially important for mid bass
Great information! Too good video! Very nicely explained!
You could also take a short cut and just add close cell foam under your floor mats ... 👍
Don't think so.
How long does that sound proof tap last? How to remove them if I want to re apply new tap? Any possible way to remove the sound shield ?
Another good tool for making a perfect hole for any kind of gasket just use a socket depending on the size get you a socket a hammer and you're good to go
So how would I place it for a down firing sub box. Would placing it under the carpet, under the sub box work?
I've never used sound mat material before and thought it was a joke but that little test made me say wow
This is a great series man. Thanks for sharing.
Always great content
Thank you
What about where the plastic of the door panel touch the door what if you put a thin gasket between for less vibration
What's your opinion on adding 50mm killmat sound deadener in a dual 8" dvc box with a 3" port? Box is for a 08 Silverado ext cab.
Does the single celled foam you used in this video have an adhesive side ?
Excellent good video topic of choice for discussion brother people need to know this very important piece of information
Thanks Mr PSE. Proper sound treatment is definitely critical.
How much of the material did you end up using? Did you have a lot left over to do some of the cabin floor area if you wanted to?