Water Pump Replacement/Full Coolant Flush - Jeep/Dodge 4.7L
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2019
- It was time to replace the water pump on my 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7L, so I decided to take this opportunity to flush the incorrect green coolant out of the system and replace it with the Mopar H.O.A.T. coolant which this engine requires. Both processes are relatively easy, but there are a few tips and tricks I would like to share with you to make your life easier!
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We hope you enjoyed this video and will keep in mind that all information included is intended to be purely academic and in fact is only the opinion of D&E. We are not professionals, nor are we qualified to knight you a professional. D&E want to ensure that anyone modify or fixing their own vehicle does so in a safe manner which leaves the vehicle in a legal, roadworthy state. In short, DON'T BE A MONKEY WITH A TOOL BOX! If you don't know what you are doing, leave it the professionals! - Авто та транспорт
It's nice to see you finally installed the Belt the right way.
Haha! It's Gimpy Hack Doug! Great petcock tip man.. that's huge! I never thought of that before! On Matt's 5.2 ZJ flush he got chicken water coolant in his mouth. Rest up buddy.. gotta mend that wing!
I forgot about that! Good point... Matt had to use cooler water to get off the trail the first time
Great video.. u can also take the battery out and sneak the water pump out that way and replace it the same way
Interesting... I had not thought of that
I fix cars always do it easiest way don’t waste time
Same on the Dakota.
.g -6,g v@@DEInTheGarage
Looks like the next easiest way to change the water pump would be remove the engine LOL.
Oh trust me disconnect the battery if you are messing with that alternator. My aunt and uncle found out the hard way, they hit something while they were replacing their alternator and it arced across the alternator and they just continued with the install....yep that worked out great it caused an electrical problem that resulted in no vehicle lights, dash lit up like a christmas tree, wouldn't shift gears, nothing worked at all, it would start and idle that was it. the computer in it had to be reprogrammed and was at the dealership for that, I think $200 and the alternator wasn't the culprit turned out the noise was the water pump....so they bought an alternator they didn't need, wiped the computer in the car during the alternator replacement, then had to have the water pump replaced on top of it LOL. I think I'd take an extra few minutes and disconnect the battery LOL.
There were chunks missing out of that water pump how the heck does that happen and worse where did those chunks go, blocking some very important water passage in the engine somewhere I bet :(.
Your videos are a godsend.
Way to go to town on the 4.7 MAGNUM.
i see your looking into my suggestion. i think you will have better results now. i also did the battery way. love the vid.
lets hope thermostat is not sticking. lol. keep us posted
Yep! Thanks again for that. So far so good, I am thinking I will change the t-stat soon anyway so it is now the only "old" piece in the cooling system
thanks
I have a gurgling sound coming from the left front footwell area! I get hot air and no engine overheating! I'm guna bleed it, so this vid has come at the rgt time!
Nice flush job. I don’t know if you do this or not but I was taught and I always taught my students to use the 1/2, 3/4, full torque method to keep everything even while tightening it up.
Don't know where that even came from, but I do the same, much better than breaking stuff LOL. Been there done that. Much better to take it easy and not snap off bolts far less work involved that way HAHA!!!
Can you explain that method for me? I’ve never heard of it.
Brendon Minchew you start torquing at half the final torque value then 3/4 then full torque so say that you have to torque a bolt to 100 ft-lbs. you start torque at 50 ft-lbs going in torque sequence, then you would go to 3/4 or 75 ft-lbs in torque sequence, then you do the final torque of 100 ft-lbs in torque sequence. I always do my final torque 2 to 3 times to check for an bolt that moves if it moves you need to replace it because it is defective and not holding correctly.
in this case I went finger tight, light ratchet, torqued to 40. You are 100% correct in my book though. When we do head gaskets or fluid pans we follow that more strictly
4.7 ... put a new serpentine belt on. See that hex head plug with the orange sealer surrounding it? That is the plug I unscrew to burp the cooling system. I screw in a small plastic funnel after draining the cooling system for a change. I always jack the front of the Commander up so the engine is tilted just a tiny little bit. [My Commander has a natural lower rake look to it, high in the back] 1~Fill the radiator. 2~Test the radiator cap. Will the cap hold 20 lb? 3~Put the cap back on. 4~Fill the overflow bottle at least halfway to the factory paint mark. 5~Keep filling coolant until the funnel is full. 6~Start the engine. Immediately the coolant will be sucked down into the engine, water pump, and hoses. 7~Keep adding coolant as the engine and thermostat warm. Don't allow air to go down the funnel. 8~Wait, keep filling if necessary. But keep the funnel full. A full funnel is the 'foot-head' and is the highest point in the cooling system. Watch the overflow bottle, it may go up. It may not. But it is there to keep any air out. 9~Once the engine is up to normal temperature and the funnel is still full, have a friend increase the engine rpm from idle to about 1,200 rpm ... the coolant will again be sucked down into the engine. Add more coolant. 10~When no more coolant will go down the funnel and still holding the 1,200 rpm steady ... remove the funnel and screw in the threaded hex plug. 11~at this point the cooling system is full and burped with no air pockets. You can't do better than that. Now can you?
I work at the Grand Cherokee plant in Detroit. Ive been running the Tankfarm since 2006 we were running green/yellow antifreeze until 2010 then we switched orange. All WJs, WK & Commanders take green/yellow from the factory . If your switching to Orange you better flush that system good if you mix Green/Yellow with Orange it will gel up.
That’s not what the manual that came with my 99 4.7 says.
Dont forget to remove the negative post before you flush the system lol
So when I bleed the system should I turn on the heat full blast as well while doing so?
I have a 1999 that's running at 210. Is that too hot?
I have an 04 inline 6, I asked for hoat yellow at autozone. They sold me mopar orange I had flushed the coolant it was late and cold I opened it assuming it was right started poaring and it was orange. I replaced the radiator as well. After all that the electric fan shroud didnt work when done so now 12:15 am and I'm needing to reflush and pull the shroad again. Can I run the orange for a while? I wanted to enjoy this but it is frustrating spent over two hours trying to get the after market hose to work which was a fail had to put the original back on. Not a good jeep day.
I just bought a 2003 4.7. A few days after I bought it the low coolant message came up. The coolant reservoir has orange coolant in it which i understand to be HOAT. Can i just top that up with hoat coolant or would you suggest a full flush?
I’ve been using green/yellow universal coolant for years on my WJ, but I have considered switching to the manufacturer’s recommendation. I’m just not sure how to go about it.
Hi like the video I’m still hearing water in heater core after bleeding system 2x only when it’s cold. After it’s been warmed up it’s goes away. Recently overheated and broke down. Changed the water pump and thermostat and upper radiator hose. Should I keep bleeding the system or is there a blockage somewhere in heater core? Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Joe
This would be the same on a 2000 dodge durango 4.7 v8 mag slt i believe but, my question is: mine once came with a radiator type dip-stick to check antifreeze level but it was stolen & now i have no idea how to tell if my antifreeze is at a full level or not without going over. Anybody have any idea how you can measure antifreeze level without the dipstick ? P.s. these didnt come with reservoir tank. Plz help.
I just found this channel & was looking for The Lunchbox Locker Install vid. but can't find it ? I found the FAIL 1 but that's it, any help ? THANKS.
I am really sorry.. I ended up selling that Jeep before I got a chance to install it, so the promised install video is not coming. Here is a pretty good instal video if you are looking though ua-cam.com/video/uulvxgLoMHg/v-deo.html
Thanks, I'll check it out.
I wish you could’ve showed us a cycle of you flushing water through the system.....
I bougth this Dakota 3 years ago, ran good .but noticed coolant looked crudy.
Water pump shot a year ago. replaced with hoat coolant. Now head gasket leaking. Do you think the previous owner used bars leak sealer?
166000 miles 2005 dakota 4.7
I got a low coolant message in my 03 4.7. i don’t really have time do do a full flush right now, so can i just add some distilled water for the time being?
I would recommend at least getting some pre-mixed coolant
Why put tge orange coolant bsck on? The green os better snd cheaper
It also eats the aluminum and over time destroys your motor if you have an aluminum head, block, or other components which the coolant will contact. For that reason, it is required for my 4.7L
When i try to bleed my 4.7 after it is warm it blows out of bleeder valve like a volcano? New water pump, temp sensor, thermostat and coolant fluctuates 195 to 212 degrees do you have any ideas??
You are not supposed to warm it up before opening the bleeder. open the bleeder when cold, then let it run to heat up. A lot of coolant will spill out during this process, but if you let it run until no tiny bubbles are coming up you will be able to get all the air out
I've done it for hours with very little bubbles coming out 3 or 4 times an still over heats but only when I drive ...
Sounds like a head gasket to me. Does your coolant reservoir overfill?
From my understanding the orange stuff is not the correct coolent .... These 4.7 take the blue ..I could be wrong tho ...
Not to disagree, but I am certain the orange H.O.A.T. is the correct coolant for the 4.7 and 3.7
is there something in the metalurgy in the engine that requires the HOAT coolant? it seems like if you are flushing the entire system, it would not matter what coolant you put back into the engine.
D&E In The Garage
2 months ago
The 4.7 has aluminum heads and timing cover which is why it requires the orange stuff. Green eats away at aluminum
Yes, the green eats away at aluminum, so if your coolant is going to contact anything aluminum like a block or head or something, you need something another coolant. Different manufacturers use different ones, Jeep build the 4.7L to use HOAT (aka the orange juice one). The 3.7 and 5.7 are the same way. Pentistar 3.6 as well if I am not mistaken
@@johnsmith6368 It’s preffered but to say green eats aluminum is false green is all metal coolant and will work fine as modern day coolants are much better than when these Jeeps were made... if you have green don’t worry but if you need to change thermostat/coolant is due for flush change it to orange hoat as it works best and lasts longer
Just food for thought, you cant just go by the color of the "koolint" lol / antifreeze, manufacturers use different colors for the same type so just because its green doesnt mean it wont work for your vehicle! example: Zerex asian vehicle coolant is Green & is used with cooling systems that require HOAT coolant which is what my 2000 jeep grand cherokee system uses but most ppl think it has to be yellow or its the wrong type, therefore you cant go by the color & if your unsure what you have then its best to do a complete flush & use what your vehicle mfg calls for ✌
Hey D and E I have a question. I have a Dodge Dakota with the 4.7. If I remember correctly. My 4.7 has a cast block and requires the green coolant, instead of Dexcool (Orange) Why does your Jeep require orange? Isn’t orange specifically for GM trucks?
The 4.7 has aluminum heads and timing cover which is why it requires the orange stuff. Green eats away at aluminum
@@DEInTheGarage well shit brother. Looks like I'm doing a complete flush, again! I cannot afford to lose my only transportation!
I made the mistake of orange isn’t the same as orange and out dexcool in by accident, will it be ok?
@@drewsey5733 Its not orange. The only you want is a HOAT coolant. It is like a light yellow. Sort of looks like urine. I use Zerex G05. The mopar one is supposedly made by in the same factory and formula but put into a different bottle.
@@ikashibimauler you are absolutely correct I use zerex g05 also been putting it in my 4.7 for yrs same as factory probably better or not but it's the same formula 😁😁
I'm kinda dumb with the new antifreeze, is the green actually harmful to these engines some how?
With the wrist, man that sucks. Slow down and take shorter strokes, or better yet have your little lady help out :D
Kidding lol. My buddy did something similar working on his car. Not sure if it was a tore muscle or what.
Yes, the green eats away at aluminum, so if your coolant is going to contact anything aluminum like a block or head or something, you need something another coolant. Different manufacturers use different ones, Jeep build the 4.7L to use HOAT (aka the orange juice one). The 3.7 and 5.7 are the same way. Pentistar 3.6 as well if I am not mistaken
@@DEInTheGarage Thanks! Guess that's one more thing to add to the ever growing list to fix. Damn I'm starting to hate this thing lol.
I just didn't mine with no problem without moving the alternator I'm just saying
Orange not green