This video is perfectly timed for me; I just recently got a great deal on a WJ and have been doing some work on it. Was planning on changing the power steering fluid and was going to go with $5 ATF. Glad I saw this before I did that.
There's a couple of videos on UA-cam about how to take the valve covers off and check the valves at rest to see if the seats had dropped. Though I see this video was made 4 years ago I hope this might be helpful to you or some others. Excellent video. I will now dig into my fan and find out if this is my case as well 😃 Keep up the great work!
I wanted to send my jeep into the ocean as well. I finally got the issue resolved thanks to your video. I really appreciate you sharing this information.
Omg!!!!! Thank you. I’ve had this issue out of my 02 gc limited. My power steering is going out and my engines been over heating and I couldn’t figure anything out on it. Your a life saver dude.
Yep, I will never understand who signed off on linking the cooling of the Jeep to the operation of the power steering pump.. a system which is often neglected
I just realized this video is almost 5 years old 🤦🏻♂️ So please tell me what ended up happening with the Jeep, did it drop a valve seat or did you do any more work to it or what? Love your videos, thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge it is much appreciated 🔧👍🏻
I'm buying one of these jeeps next week cheep because it's having this issue glad I found this video I'll put new pump with the correct fluid I always tell people never use universal fluid like a lot of shops use
Part # 68234631AA $20 dollars a friggin quart! It worked. I myself have been chasing an overheat issue with my 02 WJ for 1.5 years. I dropped a valve seat on the left head, pulled the heads, sent heads to the machine shop, then a valve seat on the right head dropped due to overheating a year later while rushing to the E.R. Thank you D&E In The Garage for saving my WJ! Liked n subscribed!
Dude, yesterday I was teetering on the very verge of setting my '01 4.7l Durango on fire,...wasn't even gonna push it outta the garage first. It's in several thousand pieces. I have a new radiator, upper & lower radiator hoses, thermostat, heater core, master rebuild kit, new rotors and brakes all around, front hub assemblys, rear wheel bearings, cold air intake, tranny pan gasket, fluid, filter front seal, injectors, plugs, wires, & coils, and more. During the teardown I found a crack in the drivers' side head that thoroughly demoralized me considering the amount of money, time , & effort I've put into this rebuild. I damn sure wasn't looking forward to investing another $3-500 in a replacement head, especially because I've had the spectre of the " Phantom 4.7 Overheat Demon" hanging over my head. My Durango had been doing all that your Jeep had been before I decided to quit driving it and rebuild it before it had some kind of catastrophic failure. Also, like you, I've been drowning in the ForumWorld trying to find out where the shadowy 4.7 Demon was lurking, ready to reach out and destroy my precious 'Rango the second she was road-worthy again. Gotta tell ya, there's been more than one sleepless night stumbling around lost in ForumWorld trying to figure it out. Then, seemingly outta nowhere, Karma took pity on me and popped up a video of this somewhat scruffy looking ruffian that was spouting some insane theory about , " ......atf, Mopar power steering fluid, gremlins", and other such nonsense. Suddenly, the sun came out. The birds started singing. I could almost swear I heard harp music. Maybe this guy wasn't completely off his nut. The simplicity of his claims were sheer genius. You, sir, are a true hero. What can we lowly Dodge enthusiasts ever do to repay your kindness in releasing us from the evil tyranny of the 4.7l Demon ? A Nobel Peace Prize perhaps ? Wait, I know! I'ma go start a GoFundMe page ....how would you feel about an all-expense paid weekend in Vegas with a few high-$$$ hookers ....??? Thnx much, man. You, sir, are a gentleman and a scholar.
You didn't tell us the whole story... " I'm sitting in the garage, I'm sweating... (Insert missed line). "I begin to weep into my hands, then fall laying flat onto my back screaminy obscenities up to the Jeep gods...". Haha .. Dang what a problem... Crazy how the fluid made all the difference in the world, alot of people are gonna benefit from you solving this. Great work Doug. And if you want to send a jeep into the ocean we should do it... It would make a great video.
Hi, I have a 2002 Dodger Ram 1500 with the 4.7 and the same issue you had. I've been trying to troubleshoot this issue for almost 5 years. I've tested the sensor, it's working, so my next step is the pwr steering fld. I've googled the vehicle for type of fluid and the results do not come back with the hydraulic. Here's what I get. The type of power steering fluid that should be used in the 2002 Dodge Ram Pickup 1500 is ATF+4. The capacity for the truck iS3 quarts of fluid. Power steering fluid helps with the hydraulic assistance so that the steering wheel can be turned more easily, it will also help lubricate the power steering pump and the steering components and prevent corrosion. Question, how can I tell if my system is hydraulic? You're help is much appreciated!
Very interesting story. Crazy how something like fluid can make such a huge difference. 4.7s seem cool but the style of engine seems like such a pain. Swap a 5.3 in from a gm truck! Haha
I wish they had either kept the 5.2 in the WJ from the ZJ or developed the 5.7 quicker. I want a V8 WJ, I just dont want it to have to be the 4.7. haha. 5.3 swap would be dope!
Good video, was wondering why you said you were covered in ATF, made sense as I finished watching. The thing I would like to put out there about the valve seats and overheating is this... if your eng oil level is at or close to top capacity the slight higher temperatures wont be as significant to the valves. It's when the over heat occurs and people have neglected the oil in the jeep that things become escalated because the heat transfer becomes more toxic. If you're a cpl quarts low on oil and your temp gets hot you do much greater damage to components because you dont have that volume to help absorb the impact but if your oil level is good you can sustain it much better. That's just been my experience and something people dont tell you or wont admit online is if they had low oil when the overheating occurred...its always "no, all of everything was perfect, idk how this happened " lol. I wouldn't sweat it too much bud, I know you're always looking her over and checking her out. Not saying you couldn't still have issues but the temps you described should be fine if they were temporary with good oil level...just my 2 cents👌
That is a really good point actually. I am collecting maintenance tips for the 4.7 for a future video to help explain the following... the picture which I am starting to see of the 4.7 is one of a VERY reliable and capable motor BUT it needs to be well maintained. I will add this bit to that video. Thanks!
Ugg, your information makes complete sense. Overall the 4.7L V8 isn't as bad as people make it out to be? Or is it? I've passed up a lot of great condition Jeeps because of that engine. So did I pass up huge problems or was I just exaggerating due to all the negatives you always read online?
@@wildbill23c I commented on another guys post earlier who had kinda avoided the v8 because of stories he had heard. Just kinda wanted to put things in perspective about the motor. They mass produced these power tech engines for close to a decade and a half and made over 3 million of them. With that many on the road you are bound to see those that have issues. Doesn't mean it's a bad motor, they would have squashed it long before if it was. Just means that when you have that many on the road, any time there's issues they stick out more to the public eye. This motor is as good as any during the time of production, any motor is only as good as its maintenance program its given. Dont be afraid of this motor, it lived on for many yrs of production for a reason👍
Vent the hood. Made a huge difference on my 04, cool air can't come in if the hot air under the hood can't get out. With the 4.7 stuffed under the cowl and no gap between the body and frame being a unibody there is no place for the air under the hood to escape. I put a thermometer under the hood and saw over 180 degrees underhood temp. Put a hand over the vent and it will burn it. Runs around 195 on the same gauge it ran over 210 on before the vents and underhood dropped 30-40 degrees. And yes, you HAVE to use the proper P/S fluid with the hydro fan.
I’ve been having exact same problem since taking my 02 jeep WJ and getting it serviced someone must’ve swapped out the fluid for ATF 4 thinking it would be fine.. The fan stopped checking on her and I cannot figure it out so thank you so much I’m gonna try this and make sure it solves it
I have the same problem, and i found "Hydraulic Fan Solenoid Mod" by martinbuilt, it can UP RPM of your Fan. maybe that helped. But can the air not completely leave the cooling system 4,7? Maybe the gasket burned out? Need a CO2 test in the cooling system first.
2001 through 2004 WJ with the 4.7 has the hydro cooling fan. Not the case with 1999 and 2000, those got a mechanical and electrical combo. And even these jeeps got a (much smaller) power steering cooler that was bolted to the bumper portion of the unibody on the left side near the headlight. And 2004 4.7's had hydro fans, I've personally seen countless ones in the yard. Is it possible you're thinking the 2004 cooling fan change for the 4.0's? And there is no "free power" to drive the hydro fan, or for that matter any electric fan. All of them put load on the motor, it's just a matter of how directly they do it. The hydro pump puts out a specific amount of FLOW at a certain RPM. That means at for example x amount of rpm it's moving however many GPM. But the pressure that's generated by the pump changes depending on load from what it's being directed through, and in turn the torque required to turn it and in turn the load on the engine. When most of the fluid goes through bypass like what happens when the hydro fan is not running and you're not turning the steering, the pump is easy to turn. But as soon as the fluid is directed differently, to turn the fan or the steering, the pump gets harder to turn. So it's not "excess power". Same idea with an electric fan, the alternator needs to generate more amperage to keep the system voltage at the PCM managed charging voltage somewhere around 14v (depending on battery temperature) when the electric fan is on. Is the hydro system more efficient than a clutch driven mechanical fan? Possibily, and this is probably the justification used by Chrysler. Here's what's said, "Cooling fan, industry-first hydraulically driven engine cooling fan on 4.7-liter engine for increased fuel economy and efficiency. Attached to radiator assembly and powered by power steering system for more efficient and quieter operation" on this page: www.wjjeeps.com/newoptions.htm As far as the fluid goes, a few of the earliest 1999's came with ATF in the power steering system. If I remember correctly they issued a TSB to replace this with the MS5931 mid model year 1999. TSB 1900503 here: www.wjjeeps.com/tsb_list.htm. This predates the hydro fan even. With this said, in my opinion, the Ford mechanical plastic fan conversion is a great option. And don't worry about the valve seats, you're fine. Cheaper alternative and perfectly fine, completely compliant with the MS5931 spec, is either Valvoline power steering fluid (white and blue bottle), or Federated power steering fluid (black bottle, red and yellow label). Both state compliance with the spec right on the bottle. Both thinner than ATF. By the way, I have several overland steering wheels I've rescued from the yard, let me know if you have any interest, I think you said you did on a previous video.
Yea, I am in the market for an overland steering wheel, but have not come across a decent one since I have been looking. If you have any spares you would like to sell, shoot me an email at dandeoffroad@gmail.com Solid info you have there as well. I thought they stopped the hydro fan in 04, but I guess I was mistaken. Makes sense now that I think of it because I know the WKs with the 4.7 still had it. I had been wondering about MS5931 compliant PS fluid, but wanted to get the mopar stuff in on the first swap to be certain
D&E In The Garage now you have me questioning my statement about the valvoline/federated fluid. I’ve always used it never ATF, but have never bought the actual dealer fluid. Wonder if I should buy some to compare. I’ve had 4 WJs but only one with the hydro fan, and I thought the fan ran slow on that one because I had ruined the pump with low fluid. You may have found something really interesting, hats off to you...
Hey Bud, your on point as usual.I appreciated your rant, I'd say the same thing about a hydraulic fan! I love my 2000 4.0 Grand/loaded. It runs in this summer heat around 198-212 stop & go,highway 200,normal. I found one curious issue on my 4.0 power steering pump, the high pressure line pissed all the fluid one day. I put fresh ATF in and now the high pressure O-ring doesn't leak. Hey give me a 4.0 JEEP any day !Keep'm Com'n!
Good info just ran across this and was about to pull my hair out , 4.7L in my 02 Dodge Ram 1500 quad cab , I unfortunately replaced parts before I saw your video on it also , last thing was installing electric fans to help cool it :/
I have a 04 4.7 and I am watch all your videos plus saving them. I want this to be the last Jeep I ever buy. Only 145,000 and I am hoping for another 150,000. I am the second owner and he took care of it but let it set for a while.
I just bought a used 04 Overland with the HO engine. Same problem, it has the hydraulic fan and gets hot!, but seems to stay below 210. It's getting a PS flush and fill with the Mopar stuff ASAP. Then its on to the GPS antenna not working and one of the flaps in the ducts sounds like it's broken. After that it should be in a lot better shape. It does use oil :-( so have to keep an eye on that. Thanks for the tip.
Had the issue with the flaps as you mention ... twice ... I bought a kit for flap replacement and did surgery on the enclosure under the dash to get at it .. flap wasn’t really the issue .. it was the actuator ... in both cases in replaced and it was all better but replaced one of the flaps the 2nd go around just for the hell of it
I'm ZJ guy at heart I don't know much but the wj's but I do love the Overland Edition anyways I think you'll be okay but if you're worried about your engine pull your heads it's better to be safe than sorry peace out... C and S forever.
Power steering fluid was low in wife's 2007 hemi Commander. There was a tiny leak in one of the hoses. I thought I would just top it off and fix the hose later. The reservoir had a sticker on it that says to use MS-10838 fluid. Jeep doesn't have the original stuff anymore, and said it has been replaced by ATF+4. They are wrong! I found Lubegard 23232 at O'Reilly's that meats the MS-10838 standard, only $18 per quart. They had 3 very dusty quarts in stock. After flush and refill, it seems to work fine. The fan goes faster than it ever did before!
Stick to recommended mopar oils like transmission, transfer case, powerstearing and diff oil. I have learned a valuable lesson with diff and without additives from mopar in. 8000 ZAR for a new diff and my fault to listen to a group member. You can use shell or any oil that is same recommend viscosity in motor. One of my friends has his second powerstearing pump in with normal atf. He has problems so i asked him what oil did he use? Atf. I am showing him your video tomorrow. I like your videos and watch them all the time. I am from south Africa. Keep it up. I would drive it just keep an eye on the oil for changes, if it starts do it otherwise dont fix what is not broken yet
I blew a heater core hose on my 4.7L last month.Temp gauge was pegged and she over heated and blew a head gasket.I put a bottle of head sealer in it and she is running fine now.I will have to replace the head gasket some time but no valve seats have dropped yet(knock on wood)...
Dang buddy... That is a bummer. Good luck with the head repair. How long have you been driving on the head repair stuff? Always wondered if they worked..
It's been a month.The product is K-Seal ultimate permanent head gasket repair.I found it at O'reilly auto parts store.It took a couple of heat cycles to work.My coolant was leaking into combustion chamber on number one cylinder.I normally dont mess with mechanic in a bottle stuff but I figured I didnt have anything to loose.This should buy me some time to save up for a new set of heads.I am going to replace the timing chains and water pump at the same time.
The 4.7 is a good motor, dont let horror stories scare you away. They mass produced these motors across the board with jeep and dodge for a reason...they're reliable if you keep the fluids good. The 4.7 will give you less problems than the transmission behind the 4.0, if you have a need for the extra power, dont let the stories worry you bud👍
I just picked up a 2005 dakota slt 4.7 v8 4wd and had overheated and dropped a intake valve seat. Also my 2002 4.7 did too. Both I fixed by pulling the head then used sleeve retaining from permitech used on diesel engines fills .012 gaps. Repressed seat in and hand laped the valve then put it back together. Both trucks run. The cylinder that dropped is at 175psi compression now. whole motor is 170 to 180 psi
Ive have tried everything and still no luck. Still hitting up to 226 degrees. New radiator, new computer, new pump, tested fan by unplugging temp sensor (worked fine) , flushed with the right ps fluid after watching this and still no luck . Any advise would be appreciated..
brother I live in Florida and I just bought a doge magnum 4.7 8v 2005, I replaced thermostat and water pump I flushed the system and it still heats up. This happens when I go 40 or 50 miles / h I only drive 5 miles to work but that is enough for the needle to go up more than 3/4 help me please I like my truck
I just picked up a 99 jeep with the 4.7l really nice clean jeep for $400 and been trying to figure out why it was running a little hot, well the oring on the power steering line is bad and leaking so I'm guessing this would be my issue also.
Exact same issue in mine. Replace PS pump and used hydro PS fluid from dodge and BAM fixed. Luckily I had a buddy that was a service tech at Dodge back in the early 2000's and he's the one that told me you abosulty have to use that fluid otherwise it will bomb the whole motor. Here I am at 264k miles and it's still running strong 5 years later. I've heard alot of purist trash talk the 4.7 but just like any engine if you take care of it and maintain it right it will serve you well.
Did you ever figure out your power steering issue.... With the 4.7 V8.... Mines A 4.7 V8 247 J/272 ratio.... Quadra Drive AdvanceTrac RSC.... Nothing EVER matches up, but the HP Top line that runs over the top of radiator around and down under the radiator.... I still can't find that cage that goes over the top of the retaining bolt which also fluid to pass as you apply gas.... My RPMs continue to be low NO over heating 😎
Absolutely excellent video! How did you bleed the system with the correct power steering hydraulic fluid? Wondering the proper way to do it so the incorrect fluid gets o uh t completely. Thank you!
Good video about being frustrated and taking a breath to research the problem more! As for the heating on the upper end, not worry about it. Well within an engine's working limit. Have an adult beverage and go enjoy some freshly smoked wings
The mechanical fan, if you were to put on the doorman fan, and it's easy enough to research, it is very little parasitic draw, and it pulls air like a beast. On the freeway it doesn't matter. You won't even need a fan driving down the freeway because you can't push more air through the radiator than what you already going through it. Furthermore, there is a small adjustable valve on that hydraulic fan and if you turn it to the right by half a turn at a time, it uses a small standard screwdriver, it will increase the speed of that hydraulic fan. But they are horrible stopping power from the power steering when you try and turn it while it's idling. That lightweight Dorman fan seems to be the best fix for it all of these issues period and a 180-degree thermostat works great as well. It allows the engine to run between about 195 + 200 generally speaking. By the way my Jeep WJ runs at 2:10 to 2:15 regularly and I live in Detroit. The power steering will use less parasitic drag running just your power steering then it will when it's running your power steering and your fan. Work is work. Some of these Engineers are morons. They've stopped wrenching on cars decades ago. Most vehicles have a bleeder valve on them and if they don't you still believe the highest radiator hose on it. That's been standard procedure for 40-plus years. Actually closer to 50 years. Quick info on towing with that transmission. Does not have bands on it. You have to increase the line pressure. And you cannot do that in the regular way you do with any other transmission because the power control module in the Jeep will lower the pressure back down to what they set it at. You can order, look it up from a company called transgo, a device that plugs into the right side of the trans and then plugs into the wire loom and it will trick the trans into thinking that it needs another 15 or so pounds at idle 2 about 30 plus pounds at a higher RPM, allowing that trans not to burn itself to bits trying to tow with it. It is a nice trans, but that mechanism in the jeep that forces the line pressure to stay low is horrible. The power steering cooler and the transmission cooler r two separate sections and one is above the other, not side-by-side. Experience tells me that as long as you've kept it below about 2:30 to 2:40 you will be okay. But who knows. If you are worried about it, pick up a set of heads from a 2007, throw on cams from a 2008 and put the timers on it from the 2002 that you have and you'll have about 30 more horsepower to play with on top of everything else. And if you're pulling a boat remember that it's a lot easier to pull a boat cuz it's pointy at the front
This is EXACTLY the problem my WJ has now after doing some towing. I rebuilt the entire drive train 26K ago and want to keep it going for another 100K. I've noticed a bit of PS pump bearing noise using a stethoscope, and couldn't get the fan to speed up like it did after the rebuild except when I pulled the temp sensor. Then it ran like crazy! I'll change the pump and use Mopar fluid. I use Mopar tranny fluid and diffy fluid. They are picky about their liquids.
I was thinking my power steering pump is going on our WJ Overland, but now watching this it may just be because it has ATF in the damn thing. That ATF isn't going to hold up well in this system. Had I known this I would have added the correct fluid when we bought it. Maybe I'll try flush and fill before replacing it. Our WJ has had me on the ropes lately too. Everything was golden when we first brought it home. Now within 4 months I've replaced every suspension wear component, brakes on all 4, evap large leak, driver's exhaust gaskets and now needing pass side, upstream bank 2 O2 sensor, now getting bank 1 cat below threshold, scanner shows high tranny temp but no light came on, going through 3 qts oil in 1400 miles (bangs head) Not a happy camper right now! Should have bought my wife an '80s diesel square body Blazer lol.
@@DEInTheGarage The driver's side isn't so bad, if you have small hands, not me lol. Just time consuming. The passenger side however looks like a ton of crap is going to be in the way. Battery/battery tray, A/C lines, harness. I need to order new bolts first, not going junk yard scrounging for them again.
I dropped a valve seat in mine last summer. Finally replacing the motor. (Thanks for the coolant advice with the green orange coolant) well started pulling everything out to get ready for my ho motor. So pull the radiator hoses off and out poors green coolant. Get the next motor and in sits orange coolant. Before that I had issues with the power steering pump. Seen a few videos of replacing with e fans and mechanical fans and they say they worked great. So I'm probably going to play with that. Start mechanical due to it being cheaper to do and change the plumbing for the power steering. Soooo I don't want to buy another motor so I figure I have to separate the fan and power steering pump to hopefully not run into that issue again. Thanks for what you do though helps out greatly.
Did it throw a code? I’m having my engine replaced and I called the shop to check on it today and they told me that they were having a problem with the fan that it was throwing a code on the dash at each time if they would clear it the code would come back
Do you have the part No. on the fluid? Mine was working ok until i refill the ac , now the e-fan kicks every time the compressor is on, after the compressor shuts down it goes back to normal , dont know if its related...
I found this in the factory service manual: "CAUTION: Use MOPAR Power Steering Fluid or equivalent. Do not use automatic transmission fluid and do not overfill." Do you have the Mopar part number for the correct fluid? Mine (2003 WJ/4.7) runs between 210 and 220 just driving around town, outside temps 70s to 80s so I'm thinking I have the same problem.
OK, I did some Googling and found it takes Chrysler MS-5931F which, apparently Chrysler doesn't make any more. Fortunately you can just buy any PS fluid that specifies that it meets the Chryslet 5931 standard. So I ordered some RedLine and I'll do a flush & refill (Martinbuilt has a video on how to do it) this weekend & see what happens.
Can you give me advise. I can get a 2004 jeep grand cherokee lomited with the 4.7. They say it need a water pump. Has 277,499 mile i can get it for $1500 is it worth it??
Dam. Dont you hate that. The owners manual in the glovebox tells us to always use factory recomended fluids from the dealer only !!! Cheers great vids.
I have 01 grand cherokee limited and when runs hot at idle it wants to stall I loose battery and oil pressure gauge but starts back up and runs fine to home.happens every time get hot out.hmmm
I just bought a 2001 at least having the very same problem. The guy I bought it from has it all torn apart so I haven't really looked it over yet but I'm curious as to whether or not the factory put a warning label on the power steering unit oil reservoir saying to use only Mopar power steering fluid.? Then my other question mark is why would you put ATF in the power steering unit and not put power steering fluid in it?
Do you have a video of when you switched the power steering pump and put the new fluid in need to do to mine cause it’s creeping to 215 in temperature thanks
FYI: I have a 2004 GC overland .. bought in 2016 with 102,000 miles in Pacific Northwest .. went to Southern California for about a year for work .. zero cooling issues even with outside temps at 121 F (desert) .. later went to North Carolina and power steering pump went out .. had it replaced at dealer there .. it ran fine cooling temp fine all the time .. moved to Dallas ran for a year with outside temps as high as 105 all over .. solid cooling slow traffic .. whatever .. went to wichita Kansas .. got ripped off by a criminal dealership (Eddys stay away from like the plague ) my radiator failed after their supposed service of gear oil change ... then the water pump .. they are liars there .. but since then after replacing all that that they sabotaged .. it ran hot in slow traffic fine at speed ... moved down to Austin Texas for the time being .. but was up in Dallas for another job interview and on way back to Austin got stuck in traffic and it ran hot for awhile till it got moving .. found your video and martins’ .. I went to the Jeep dealer here in Austin and their database does NOT have the information in it regarding this PWR steering fluid issue .. absolutely not there .. They are investigating for me .. I ordered the fluid and am going to replace it .. I haven’t had the luxury of being able to do much work on it at home but will anyways .. in Wichita I worked with German engineers there and they were very nice compared to many American engineers who think they are brilliant or have a chip on their shoulder .. but the Germans DO over do their engineering without being smart about maintainability and dependencies (like this pump dependency ). They were doing the same thing on their jet engines and they likely lost WW2 because they did the same thing with their tanks .. over engineered and breakdowns meant loss of battles .. so in that case .. their foolishness was our benefit .. I can’t wait to get the fluid changed to see the difference .. the logic of the viscosity issue of the fluid is perfect .. thanks so much for sharing
That makes perfect sense. I have a 1990 xj with a hydro-boost brake system. Right now I have no brakes! I bet if I flush & put hydrolic fluid in it will solve my problem.
Did you end up replacing the valve seats? Mine has had this exact same issue running a little hot when at stop lights for 3-4 years now. Just rolled 200k and finally found this video
Oh man that's a hard one. We've all herd the horror stories of the 4.7 valve seats. My current thinking is it takes 200deg to expand steel by .001in ( I believe) Well if the engine is still running strong. Then I don't think you crossed the threshold of dropping the seat. Now that's it's running cooler you are wayy better off. OEM heads for the 4.7 look to be like $5-600 (after core rebate) so it's a toss up to rebuild or just buy and then install. But that's alot of work. And I couldn't find anyone non-OEM 'valve seat drop resistant' heads, so you'd be damn close to where you are now. I'd say run that 4.7 as is and keep her cool. Air dams are key to proper air flow.
Yea man, given the amount of work I may just go forward from here and hope for the best. is it eats itself I can pull a junk yard motor and drop the whole thing in for about the same amount of work and money
So my 00’ Durango, 4.7L v8 is experiencing the same issue, now my A/C does NOT work at all. I just replaced my radiator about 4-6 months ago, now I can here the fan is working, just won’t cool down til I shut it off, now also my rig reached around 235-250, I live in the hills in Cali and I barely make it up to my house before she damn near redlines, today as of 9/30/20 my truck got hot enough to shut off. What could it be?
I do love my 4.0L! OH and thanks for letting me know that German cars are over- engineered after I got my wife a 2003, VW Passat. Don't get me wrong we've had it as a part of the family for a few years now his name is Blütz cause he's blue and it's been a good car (the AWD is nice in the winter). But sometimes you look at the double amount of everything they put in the car and wonder did they really need to have 4 control arms per wheel? Do you really need 4 $100 oxygen sensors? NOOOOOOOOOOOO I dont think so. But the reason I bring it up is because I did learn one thing. When it comes to fluids in the VW, I do believe that you can find acceptable equivalent fluids that don't have to come from the "Stealership". But they do have to be an EQUIVALENT fluid. It can't just be something similar it has to be something designed to be the same. That being said I don't know if your hydraulic fluid is available from third parties. My 4.0L is so flexible in comparison. I'm using Rotella diesel oil on your recommendation and it's working out great! I put GL -4 In my transmission instead of the Gl-5 recommendation (I kept reading about the GL- 5 being tough on brass synchronizers). Also working out great! Lol random thought! If your 4.7L was to ever cause enough problem that the ocean seems like a better place for it than your driveway, maybe just swap a 4.0L in it! P.S. Thanks for the shout out! I'll send a pic of international Jerry as soon as I get him!
Let me start off by saying 2 things! Great vid, thank you. 2nd. I hate and love the 4.7. I have owned 17 WJs, most with the trusty 4.0, but several with the 4.7. LOL, currently I have #12 my 04 4.7, #16 a 99 4.7 and #17 a 99 4.7. Both my 99s (prob gonna flip) have the awesome mechanical fans as I love, but my 04 has the hydro. Now I have had it over 8 years now and it has 191K miles and never had any issues, I bought from original owner who I know. I am starting to wonder though if I actually have the wrong ps fluid in it as I have noticed that the temp has gone a tad, just a hair past mid point and it has actually felt like my power steering is hesitating when I first start her up. Like for a split sec I have no power steering. Prev owner can't remember ever changing fluids, but also it was taken care of by a few shops over his time. I watched your vid and started searching for the MOPAR 68234631AA that is the MS10838 and can't find it anywhere. When I thought I found it was the regular fluid MS 5931 that I am guessing is for all other 99 to 04 WJs with the 4.0 or 4.7 non-hydro cooling systems. Every time I think I have found some as they say for hydro it says MS5931. I know it has been a few years since you did this vid, and wondering if you still have the WJ and what other issues if any have you had and learned from?
"...and I considered push it into the ocean" "...I was going to burn the Jeep down" -man, I have been on this stage few times in my life. 😎 I went through all bunch of them, few 4.0, 4.7, and currently 2.7 CRD. Greetings from Europe under quarantine 2020.
I think you'll be ok with the valve seats.. it never really "overheated". My wife pinned the temp gauge in the XK and it still seems to be fine 🤷♂️. 🤣
I have to admit, I’ve thought of going to an empty field and burning it to the ground.. but this is my daily as well and fully stock as a fully equipped limited edition that the sun roof doesn’t leak 🙌.. having searched all over j finally ran into your video and ran out to the driveway to taste what’s in the power steering box..!! Sure enough it smells like that purple crap.. it’s been driving me nuts.. I stare at the temp and if it goes up I take my high blood pressure gummy bears.. having said that I will drive to the Dodge dealer for 2 quarts and will follow up on this comment.. thanks for posting this.. I freeking regret selling my XJ too.. hopefully this will fix my temp from creeping up..
im going to start watching your vids more. i have a similar setup 4.7 and havent had an issue with over heating other then the time i purchased it for 500$ from a friend and cyl #8 started taking on coolant. so i rebuilt the 4.7 and had a few hickups as i never owned anything over 4cyl's. i will be doing a trans cooler similar in style to yours, as the p/s already takes up a good amount of radiator space in front.
This is the exact issue I am having with my WJ. mine hovers around 210 and if it over 90 degrees my A/C is pretty much useless. I recently had my power steering pump replaced and that did help but I now suspect they did not use the Mopar hydraulic fluid like you recommended. I looked it up but there were several results. Do you happen to still know the part #? Hopefully you do or someone knows. I appreciate any help with this and thank you so much for this video. Damn that hydraulic fan!
I think you should be done with those WJ's and get yourself a nice 4.0 LJ but hey, that's me. Good vid and glad you got it somewhat under control. I'd still push it into the ocean though :)
HAHA... Is that my favorite LJ Toyota guy?? I don;t think I have earned enough good kharma in life yet to deserve my LJ. Dirty old Grands are my calling for now. Maybe someday the universe will reward me :-)
I’m really appreciate all of that information bro!!I have a 2004 ram 4.7 with that overheated problem. What kind of type or model of power steering pump do you recommend me for my truck?
D&E In The Garage Bro, thank you so much for help and time, I’m already did the pier steering pump replace but it doesn’t work unfortunately. I have no idea what I’m going to do now. I replace the temperature sensor, thermostat and water pump either. Any idea to find the possible issue that is causing the overheating?
Don’t touch a thing/ u fixed the issue/ this engine is tuff and can take it. Just always put in the correct fluids as u found out. Must change oil every 3000 then no trouble
I'm having a problem with mine building pressure I think the head gasket is failing it doesn't overheat but it is building air pressure in the cooling system
Awesome video man! Just one small thing, I have a 2004 wj 4.7 it uses the hydro fan as well. I wish they had stopped in 2001 but they used it till the end.
Having issues with the hydraulic fan as well wife bought 03 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 4.7 shit man I replaced water pump thermostat and fluid change and changed the cooling sensor spend hours why it’s still over heating literally lol
Wow great information. I myself would never have thought about it having the wrong fluid. In reality the $40 for the fluid isn't that expensive given how often do people actually change power steering fluid? Never LOL.
What would be a reason I can hear my power steering pump hiss softly when I turn my or my climate control(so everything is silent) I turn the steering wheel and the sound changes so that how I assume it’s my power steering. From what I can see my reservoir is full and cool aid red in color
D&E In The Garage 2004 4.7 of course... also the cool aid red color I was taking about I believe was the brake fluid reservoir.. so I’m unsure about my power steering fluid levels
Dealing with a similar issue, Replaced radiator and suddenly i have a code saying either faulty solenoid or wiring. Anyways i go and unhook the temp sensor and the fan shoots into hyper mode. The guys on the jeepforum seem to think i should just try and replace the solenoid. Would you have any recommendations?
@@johnb9842 Yea, other projects have pulled me away, but I have the next video planned. Unfortunately I do not have a free weekend until sometime in March, so it may be a while before I can get back to it. At the very least I will go hard on it this spring
My 91 XJ seemed to like overheating as well and when I looked at everything I thought it was all fine, I checked the radiator fluid and it was fine and I checked all the others as well. However my coolant tank was empty but I thought it was fine since the radiator was full so I kept driving it a little bit and it seemed to get so hot that it started to slightly leak out of the passenger front bottom of the radiator and I thought it was doing that cause it was overheating. So I was like what the heck and just topped off the coolant tank, and when I started it and drove around for about 10 mins at operating temperature, it was running cooler so I checked the tank and the engine drank like a 1/4 of what the tank was holding. I suppose it went to the radiator. So I topped it off again and it hasn’t gotten lower since. The radiator only seems to leak when it gets really hot. And that only happens now if I’m sitting in 91 degree weather without moving the Jeep at all and it’s just idling and the e fan is off, otherwise it doesn’t leak for some reason.
I hope it all works out. I was worried I have seen issues with 4.7 but man that’s true of every motor. No one goes online to say hey this is the greatest motor about any motor. Tell someone comes up with an issue and they feel they have to defend what they bought like a 3.8 JK guy. I have a 5.7 hemi and now I’m worried about the freakin’ cam. It to is my driver and I just had 3 hand and arm surgeries I can do it. Do I run redline oil as people are saying at 90-100$ an oil change. As we say in bike racing ignorance is bliss. The fastest riders don’t even know how to tune up a bike. Me I go into a corner and it’s like that feels like the axle bearing is a little loose or the bike doesn’t rev out correctly today is it lean etc? The average consumer believes what the mechanic says and goes with that tell catastrophic failure. But drives happy tell then But a dealer serviced Jeep would have $20 PS fluid in it. Ugh now I’m worried the drain plugs tight in my XJ. As I head out to find an oil leak on my daughters Patriot so someone else Can fix it witch hurts my pride. Good luck my friend. Another good vid. Hey fluid wise tell me what to truly run in the 5 speed trans in my XJ so it shifts better I’d pay $20 a quart lol.
Sadly, I have slightly over heated mine (212 degrees or so) a few times since I have owned mine. Luckily I have not noticed any obvious issues caused by the slight over heating. I do know at around 200k miles ( currently 225k miles) the motor was completely rebuilt due to previous owners son running it out of oil and over heating it. Hopefully he went with Odessa heads (odessa "fixed" the valve seat problem) and I don't have to worry about that issue. After I did the mechanical fan conversion I have had a few times my temps reached 210-212 on a hot day sitting in traffic. That will be fixed in a couple weeks when I get a fan shroud from a 4.0 and I unblock the top 1/3 of the mechanical fan blades from pulling from the radiator.
I am in the process of searching the yard around me for a clean HO to rebuild and swap in. I like the 4.7, but I want to be able to trust it. I have heard a lot of stories like your though which give me hope.
Aww. Makes me feel bad for the 4.7 WJ who tried racing my 5.2 ZJ today. I wasn't even trying to race i just thought his rusty heap was gonna launch his rusty hanging fuel tank plate at my rust-free ZJ. Just needed to get around him. His fuel tank skid plate was flapping like crazy.
I dont understand why so many WJ guys ignore the tank skids rotting right out of their Jeeps.... Do you want your gas tank to fall out? Because that is how your gas tank falls out..
@@DEInTheGarage Dude, i don't know why they went with the inferior design. The ZJ fuel tank straps are perfect. I rarely see them snap, rust, or sag...
I got rid of the hydraulic fan I lost a bit of power and and mpg loss but I went to the mechanical over electric fan setup, here is the mod tho I went to a 12 blade 16" fan blade for a Ford Dorman pn620-149
and let's say you damage your panel to get to the relay under the headlight and it's not there. It's in another location. No idea. New radiator & I overheat at idle, no idea where the relay is.
This video is perfectly timed for me; I just recently got a great deal on a WJ and have been doing some work on it. Was planning on changing the power steering fluid and was going to go with $5 ATF. Glad I saw this before I did that.
There's a couple of videos on UA-cam about how to take the valve covers off and check the valves at rest to see if the seats had dropped.
Though I see this video was made 4 years ago I hope this might be helpful to you or some others.
Excellent video. I will now dig into my fan and find out if this is my case as well 😃 Keep up the great work!
I wanted to send my jeep into the ocean as well. I finally got the issue resolved thanks to your video. I really appreciate you sharing this information.
Glad this helped you! Another one saved
Omg!!!!! Thank you. I’ve had this issue out of my 02 gc limited. My power steering is going out and my engines been over heating and I couldn’t figure anything out on it. Your a life saver dude.
Yep, I will never understand who signed off on linking the cooling of the Jeep to the operation of the power steering pump.. a system which is often neglected
I just realized this video is almost 5 years old 🤦🏻♂️ So please tell me what ended up happening with the Jeep, did it drop a valve seat or did you do any more work to it or what? Love your videos, thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge it is much appreciated 🔧👍🏻
I'm buying one of these jeeps next week cheep because it's having this issue glad I found this video I'll put new pump with the correct fluid I always tell people never use universal fluid like a lot of shops use
Glad I caught this since my 2000 WJ started puking power steering fluid and I’m starting to suddenly see the temps creep to 210 regularly.
Dollars to donuts those two are related
Part # 68234631AA
$20 dollars a friggin quart!
It worked. I myself have been chasing an overheat issue with my 02 WJ for 1.5 years. I dropped a valve seat on the left head, pulled the heads, sent heads to the machine shop, then a valve seat on the right head dropped due to overheating a year later while rushing to the E.R.
Thank you D&E In The Garage for saving my WJ!
Liked n subscribed!
Dude, yesterday I was teetering on the very verge of setting my '01 4.7l Durango on fire,...wasn't even gonna push it outta the garage first. It's in several thousand pieces. I have a new radiator, upper & lower radiator hoses, thermostat, heater core, master rebuild kit, new rotors and brakes all around, front hub assemblys, rear wheel bearings, cold air intake, tranny pan gasket, fluid, filter front seal, injectors, plugs, wires, & coils, and more. During the teardown I found a crack in the drivers' side head that thoroughly demoralized me considering the amount of money, time , & effort I've put into this rebuild. I damn sure wasn't looking forward to investing another $3-500 in a replacement head, especially because I've had the spectre of the " Phantom 4.7 Overheat Demon" hanging over my head. My Durango had been doing all that your Jeep had been before I decided to quit driving it and rebuild it before it had some kind of catastrophic failure. Also, like you, I've been drowning in the ForumWorld trying to find out where the shadowy 4.7 Demon was lurking, ready to reach out and destroy my precious 'Rango the second she was road-worthy again. Gotta tell ya, there's been more than one sleepless night stumbling around lost in ForumWorld trying to figure it out. Then, seemingly outta nowhere, Karma took pity on me and popped up a video of this somewhat scruffy looking ruffian that was spouting some insane theory about , " ......atf, Mopar power steering fluid, gremlins", and other such nonsense. Suddenly, the sun came out. The birds started singing. I could almost swear I heard harp music. Maybe this guy wasn't completely off his nut. The simplicity of his claims were sheer genius. You, sir, are a true hero. What can we lowly Dodge enthusiasts ever do to repay your kindness in releasing us from the evil tyranny of the 4.7l Demon ? A Nobel Peace Prize perhaps ? Wait, I know! I'ma go start a GoFundMe page ....how would you feel about an all-expense paid weekend in Vegas with a few high-$$$ hookers ....??? Thnx much, man. You, sir, are a gentleman and a scholar.
You didn't tell us the whole story... " I'm sitting in the garage, I'm sweating... (Insert missed line). "I begin to weep into my hands, then fall laying flat onto my back screaminy obscenities up to the Jeep gods...". Haha .. Dang what a problem... Crazy how the fluid made all the difference in the world, alot of people are gonna benefit from you solving this. Great work Doug. And if you want to send a jeep into the ocean we should do it... It would make a great video.
Hey project Dan I love your ZJ video. C & S forever.
This one was too much even foe the instagram behind the scenes... dark days, Danno.. dark days..
@@DEInTheGarage LoL. The Dark side of the Jeep is very powerful and very seductive.
Persistence pays off! Thanks for the info. Congrats to Jerry as well for being a world traveler!
Hi, I have a 2002 Dodger Ram 1500 with the 4.7 and the same issue you had. I've been trying to troubleshoot this issue for almost 5 years. I've tested the sensor, it's working, so my next step is the pwr steering fld. I've googled the vehicle for type of fluid and the results do not come back with the hydraulic. Here's what I get.
The type of power steering fluid that should be used in the 2002 Dodge Ram Pickup 1500 is ATF+4. The capacity for the truck iS3 quarts of fluid. Power steering fluid helps with the hydraulic assistance so that the steering wheel can be turned more easily, it will also help lubricate the power steering pump and the steering components and prevent corrosion.
Question, how can I tell if my system is hydraulic?
You're help is much appreciated!
Wow thanks I was going to buy a 2000-04 Jeep 4.7 did not know anything about this fan problem 👍 saved me a headache 🤕
Very interesting story. Crazy how something like fluid can make such a huge difference. 4.7s seem cool but the style of engine seems like such a pain. Swap a 5.3 in from a gm truck! Haha
I wish they had either kept the 5.2 in the WJ from the ZJ or developed the 5.7 quicker. I want a V8 WJ, I just dont want it to have to be the 4.7. haha. 5.3 swap would be dope!
@@DEInTheGarage do it! Or a 5.9! A Niner WJ 👌
Good video, was wondering why you said you were covered in ATF, made sense as I finished watching. The thing I would like to put out there about the valve seats and overheating is this... if your eng oil level is at or close to top capacity the slight higher temperatures wont be as significant to the valves. It's when the over heat occurs and people have neglected the oil in the jeep that things become escalated because the heat transfer becomes more toxic. If you're a cpl quarts low on oil and your temp gets hot you do much greater damage to components because you dont have that volume to help absorb the impact but if your oil level is good you can sustain it much better. That's just been my experience and something people dont tell you or wont admit online is if they had low oil when the overheating occurred...its always "no, all of everything was perfect, idk how this happened " lol. I wouldn't sweat it too much bud, I know you're always looking her over and checking her out. Not saying you couldn't still have issues but the temps you described should be fine if they were temporary with good oil level...just my 2 cents👌
That is a really good point actually. I am collecting maintenance tips for the 4.7 for a future video to help explain the following... the picture which I am starting to see of the 4.7 is one of a VERY reliable and capable motor BUT it needs to be well maintained. I will add this bit to that video. Thanks!
Ugg, your information makes complete sense. Overall the 4.7L V8 isn't as bad as people make it out to be? Or is it? I've passed up a lot of great condition Jeeps because of that engine. So did I pass up huge problems or was I just exaggerating due to all the negatives you always read online?
@@wildbill23c
I commented on another guys post earlier who had kinda avoided the v8 because of stories he had heard. Just kinda wanted to put things in perspective about the motor. They mass produced these power tech engines for close to a decade and a half and made over 3 million of them. With that many on the road you are bound to see those that have issues. Doesn't mean it's a bad motor, they would have squashed it long before if it was. Just means that when you have that many on the road, any time there's issues they stick out more to the public eye. This motor is as good as any during the time of production, any motor is only as good as its maintenance program its given. Dont be afraid of this motor, it lived on for many yrs of production for a reason👍
Vent the hood. Made a huge difference on my 04, cool air can't come in if the hot air under the hood can't get out. With the 4.7 stuffed under the cowl and no gap between the body and frame being a unibody there is no place for the air under the hood to escape. I put a thermometer under the hood and saw over 180 degrees underhood temp. Put a hand over the vent and it will burn it. Runs around 195 on the same gauge it ran over 210 on before the vents and underhood dropped 30-40 degrees. And yes, you HAVE to use the proper P/S fluid with the hydro fan.
Damn. Makes sense. I just may do that
I’ve been having exact same problem since taking my 02 jeep WJ and getting it serviced someone must’ve swapped out the fluid for ATF 4 thinking it would be fine.. The fan stopped checking on her and I cannot figure it out so thank you so much I’m gonna try this and make sure it solves it
I have the same problem, and i found "Hydraulic Fan Solenoid Mod" by martinbuilt, it can UP RPM of your Fan. maybe that helped. But can the air not completely leave the cooling system 4,7? Maybe the gasket burned out? Need a CO2 test in the cooling system first.
Maybe some one said this already but you can adjust the fan RPMs by turning a screw where the fluid goes in the fan.
2001 through 2004 WJ with the 4.7 has the hydro cooling fan. Not the case with 1999 and 2000, those got a mechanical and electrical combo. And even these jeeps got a (much smaller) power steering cooler that was bolted to the bumper portion of the unibody on the left side near the headlight. And 2004 4.7's had hydro fans, I've personally seen countless ones in the yard. Is it possible you're thinking the 2004 cooling fan change for the 4.0's?
And there is no "free power" to drive the hydro fan, or for that matter any electric fan. All of them put load on the motor, it's just a matter of how directly they do it.
The hydro pump puts out a specific amount of FLOW at a certain RPM. That means at for example x amount of rpm it's moving however many GPM. But the pressure that's generated by the pump changes depending on load from what it's being directed through, and in turn the torque required to turn it and in turn the load on the engine. When most of the fluid goes through bypass like what happens when the hydro fan is not running and you're not turning the steering, the pump is easy to turn. But as soon as the fluid is directed differently, to turn the fan or the steering, the pump gets harder to turn. So it's not "excess power".
Same idea with an electric fan, the alternator needs to generate more amperage to keep the system voltage at the PCM managed charging voltage somewhere around 14v (depending on battery temperature) when the electric fan is on.
Is the hydro system more efficient than a clutch driven mechanical fan? Possibily, and this is probably the justification used by Chrysler. Here's what's said, "Cooling fan, industry-first hydraulically driven engine cooling fan on 4.7-liter engine for increased fuel economy and efficiency. Attached to radiator assembly and powered by power steering system for more efficient and quieter operation" on this page: www.wjjeeps.com/newoptions.htm
As far as the fluid goes, a few of the earliest 1999's came with ATF in the power steering system. If I remember correctly they issued a TSB to replace this with the MS5931 mid model year 1999. TSB 1900503 here: www.wjjeeps.com/tsb_list.htm. This predates the hydro fan even.
With this said, in my opinion, the Ford mechanical plastic fan conversion is a great option. And don't worry about the valve seats, you're fine.
Cheaper alternative and perfectly fine, completely compliant with the MS5931 spec, is either Valvoline power steering fluid (white and blue bottle), or Federated power steering fluid (black bottle, red and yellow label). Both state compliance with the spec right on the bottle. Both thinner than ATF.
By the way, I have several overland steering wheels I've rescued from the yard, let me know if you have any interest, I think you said you did on a previous video.
Yea, I am in the market for an overland steering wheel, but have not come across a decent one since I have been looking. If you have any spares you would like to sell, shoot me an email at dandeoffroad@gmail.com
Solid info you have there as well. I thought they stopped the hydro fan in 04, but I guess I was mistaken. Makes sense now that I think of it because I know the WKs with the 4.7 still had it. I had been wondering about MS5931 compliant PS fluid, but wanted to get the mopar stuff in on the first swap to be certain
D&E In The Garage now you have me questioning my statement about the valvoline/federated fluid. I’ve always used it never ATF, but have never bought the actual dealer fluid. Wonder if I should buy some to compare. I’ve had 4 WJs but only one with the hydro fan, and I thought the fan ran slow on that one because I had ruined the pump with low fluid. You may have found something really interesting, hats off to you...
Hey Bud, your on point as usual.I appreciated your rant, I'd say the same thing about a hydraulic fan! I love my 2000 4.0 Grand/loaded. It runs in this summer heat around 198-212 stop & go,highway 200,normal. I found one curious issue on my 4.0 power steering pump, the high pressure line pissed all the fluid one day. I put fresh ATF in and now the high pressure O-ring doesn't leak. Hey give me a 4.0 JEEP any day !Keep'm Com'n!
Yea buddy, I will just always be a 4.0 guy.
Good info just ran across this and was about to pull my hair out , 4.7L in my 02 Dodge Ram 1500 quad cab , I unfortunately replaced parts before I saw your video on it also , last thing was installing electric fans to help cool it :/
I have a 04 4.7 and I am watch all your videos plus saving them. I want this to be the last Jeep I ever buy. Only 145,000 and I am hoping for another 150,000. I am the second owner and he took care of it but let it set for a while.
I just bought a used 04 Overland with the HO engine. Same problem, it has the hydraulic fan and gets hot!, but seems to stay below 210. It's getting a PS flush and fill with the Mopar stuff ASAP. Then its on to the GPS antenna not working and one of the flaps in the ducts sounds like it's broken.
After that it should be in a lot better shape. It does use oil :-( so have to keep an eye on that. Thanks for the tip.
Had the issue with the flaps as you mention ... twice ... I bought a kit for flap replacement and did surgery on the enclosure under the dash to get at it .. flap wasn’t really the issue .. it was the actuator ... in both cases in replaced and it was all better but replaced one of the flaps the 2nd go around just for the hell of it
I'm ZJ guy at heart I don't know much but the wj's but I do love the Overland Edition anyways I think you'll be okay but if you're worried about your engine pull your heads it's better to be safe than sorry peace out... C and S forever.
Power steering fluid was low in wife's 2007 hemi Commander. There was a tiny leak in one of the hoses. I thought I would just top it off and fix the hose later. The reservoir had a sticker on it that says to use MS-10838 fluid. Jeep doesn't have the original stuff anymore, and said it has been replaced by ATF+4. They are wrong! I found Lubegard 23232 at O'Reilly's that meats the MS-10838 standard, only $18 per quart. They had 3 very dusty quarts in stock. After flush and refill, it seems to work fine. The fan goes faster than it ever did before!
Stick to recommended mopar oils like transmission, transfer case, powerstearing and diff oil. I have learned a valuable lesson with diff and without additives from mopar in. 8000 ZAR for a new diff and my fault to listen to a group member. You can use shell or any oil that is same recommend viscosity in motor. One of my friends has his second powerstearing pump in with normal atf. He has problems so i asked him what oil did he use? Atf. I am showing him your video tomorrow. I like your videos and watch them all the time. I am from south Africa. Keep it up. I would drive it just keep an eye on the oil for changes, if it starts do it otherwise dont fix what is not broken yet
Does the 1999 grand Cherokee limited 4.7L V8 with the towing package and Quadra trac 2 have a hydraulic fan or mechanical fan or electrical fan?
I blew a heater core hose on my 4.7L last month.Temp gauge was pegged and she over heated and blew a head gasket.I put a bottle of head sealer in it and she is running fine now.I will have to replace the head gasket some time but no valve seats have dropped yet(knock on wood)...
Dang buddy... That is a bummer. Good luck with the head repair. How long have you been driving on the head repair stuff? Always wondered if they worked..
It's been a month.The product is K-Seal ultimate permanent head gasket repair.I found it at O'reilly auto parts store.It took a couple of heat cycles to work.My coolant was leaking into combustion chamber on number one cylinder.I normally dont mess with mechanic in a bottle stuff but I figured I didnt have anything to loose.This should buy me some time to save up for a new set of heads.I am going to replace the timing chains and water pump at the same time.
This was such an interesting watch... I have the 4.0 but have always wanted something bigger, now I know to stay away from the 4.7L!!
The 4.7 is a good motor, dont let horror stories scare you away. They mass produced these motors across the board with jeep and dodge for a reason...they're reliable if you keep the fluids good. The 4.7 will give you less problems than the transmission behind the 4.0, if you have a need for the extra power, dont let the stories worry you bud👍
I am not saying the 4.7 should be avoided, but it definitely does require more attention than a 4.0
Same exact issue! Thanks I am going to try this and see if it fixes my issue. Thanks for the video.
I just picked up a 2005 dakota slt 4.7 v8 4wd and had overheated and dropped a intake valve seat. Also my 2002 4.7 did too. Both I fixed by pulling the head then used sleeve retaining from permitech used on diesel engines fills .012 gaps. Repressed seat in and hand laped the valve then put it back together. Both trucks run. The cylinder that dropped is at 175psi compression now. whole motor is 170 to 180 psi
Ive have tried everything and still no luck. Still hitting up to 226 degrees. New radiator, new computer, new pump, tested fan by unplugging temp sensor (worked fine) , flushed with the right ps fluid after watching this and still no luck . Any advise would be appreciated..
brother I live in Florida and I just bought a doge magnum 4.7 8v 2005, I replaced thermostat and water pump I flushed the system and it still heats up. This happens when I go 40 or 50 miles / h I only drive 5 miles to work but that is enough for the needle to go up more than 3/4 help me please I like my truck
I hate when engine is overheating 🥵 🥵🥵 good job
Hijacking top comment to say skip to about 16 mins
thanks dude, never woulda found that info! Been fighting this forever.
I just picked up a 99 jeep with the 4.7l really nice clean jeep for $400 and been trying to figure out why it was running a little hot, well the oring on the power steering line is bad and leaking so I'm guessing this would be my issue also.
Exact same issue in mine. Replace PS pump and used hydro PS fluid from dodge and BAM fixed.
Luckily I had a buddy that was a service tech at Dodge back in the early 2000's and he's the one that told me you abosulty have to use that fluid otherwise it will bomb the whole motor.
Here I am at 264k miles and it's still running strong 5 years later. I've heard alot of purist trash talk the 4.7 but just like any engine if you take care of it and maintain it right it will serve you well.
Did you ever figure out your power steering issue.... With the 4.7 V8.... Mines A 4.7 V8 247 J/272 ratio.... Quadra Drive AdvanceTrac RSC.... Nothing EVER matches up, but the HP Top line that runs over the top of radiator around and down under the radiator.... I still can't find that cage that goes over the top of the retaining bolt which also fluid to pass as you apply gas.... My RPMs continue to be low NO over heating 😎
Absolutely excellent video! How did you bleed the system with the correct power steering hydraulic fluid? Wondering the proper way to do it so the incorrect fluid gets o uh t completely. Thank you!
I did it the old school way. Drain, fill, circulate, repeat a few times. Wasteful, yes, but it got the job done
Good video about being frustrated and taking a breath to research the problem more! As for the heating on the upper end, not worry about it. Well within an engine's working limit. Have an adult beverage and go enjoy some freshly smoked wings
You know what... I think I shall take you up on that advice!
Congrats on uncle Jerry getting outside of the USA that rocks. I know how I felt when my sticker got out. It's a great feeling
Is this for all 4.7s or just for jeeps? Mine is in a 2002 dodge ram 1500
The mechanical fan, if you were to put on the doorman fan, and it's easy enough to research, it is very little parasitic draw, and it pulls air like a beast. On the freeway it doesn't matter. You won't even need a fan driving down the freeway because you can't push more air through the radiator than what you already going through it. Furthermore, there is a small adjustable valve on that hydraulic fan and if you turn it to the right by half a turn at a time, it uses a small standard screwdriver, it will increase the speed of that hydraulic fan. But they are horrible stopping power from the power steering when you try and turn it while it's idling. That lightweight Dorman fan seems to be the best fix for it all of these issues period and a 180-degree thermostat works great as well. It allows the engine to run between about 195 + 200 generally speaking. By the way my Jeep WJ runs at 2:10 to 2:15 regularly and I live in Detroit.
The power steering will use less parasitic drag running just your power steering then it will when it's running your power steering and your fan. Work is work. Some of these Engineers are morons. They've stopped wrenching on cars decades ago.
Most vehicles have a bleeder valve on them and if they don't you still believe the highest radiator hose on it. That's been standard procedure for 40-plus years. Actually closer to 50 years.
Quick info on towing with that transmission. Does not have bands on it. You have to increase the line pressure. And you cannot do that in the regular way you do with any other transmission because the power control module in the Jeep will lower the pressure back down to what they set it at. You can order, look it up from a company called transgo, a device that plugs into the right side of the trans and then plugs into the wire loom and it will trick the trans into thinking that it needs another 15 or so pounds at idle 2 about 30 plus pounds at a higher RPM, allowing that trans not to burn itself to bits trying to tow with it. It is a nice trans, but that mechanism in the jeep that forces the line pressure to stay low is horrible.
The power steering cooler and the transmission cooler r two separate sections and one is above the other, not side-by-side.
Experience tells me that as long as you've kept it below about 2:30 to 2:40 you will be okay. But who knows. If you are worried about it, pick up a set of heads from a 2007, throw on cams from a 2008 and put the timers on it from the 2002 that you have and you'll have about 30 more horsepower to play with on top of everything else. And if you're pulling a boat remember that it's a lot easier to pull a boat cuz it's pointy at the front
This is EXACTLY the problem my WJ has now after doing some towing. I rebuilt the entire drive train 26K ago and want to keep it going for another 100K. I've noticed a bit of PS pump bearing noise using a stethoscope, and couldn't get the fan to speed up like it did after the rebuild except when I pulled the temp sensor. Then it ran like crazy! I'll change the pump and use Mopar fluid. I use Mopar tranny fluid and diffy fluid. They are picky about their liquids.
Was the power steering fluid number 4 Mopar?
I was thinking my power steering pump is going on our WJ Overland, but now watching this it may just be because it has ATF in the damn thing. That ATF isn't going to hold up well in this system. Had I known this I would have added the correct fluid when we bought it. Maybe I'll try flush and fill before replacing it.
Our WJ has had me on the ropes lately too. Everything was golden when we first brought it home. Now within 4 months I've replaced every suspension wear component, brakes on all 4, evap large leak, driver's exhaust gaskets and now needing pass side, upstream bank 2 O2 sensor, now getting bank 1 cat below threshold, scanner shows high tranny temp but no light came on, going through 3 qts oil in 1400 miles (bangs head) Not a happy camper right now!
Should have bought my wife an '80s diesel square body Blazer lol.
Dear lord man... That is a list! I have to do exhaust gaskets as well. Difficult job?
@@DEInTheGarage The driver's side isn't so bad, if you have small hands, not me lol. Just time consuming. The passenger side however looks like a ton of crap is going to be in the way. Battery/battery tray, A/C lines, harness. I need to order new bolts first, not going junk yard scrounging for them again.
I dropped a valve seat in mine last summer. Finally replacing the motor. (Thanks for the coolant advice with the green orange coolant) well started pulling everything out to get ready for my ho motor. So pull the radiator hoses off and out poors green coolant. Get the next motor and in sits orange coolant. Before that I had issues with the power steering pump. Seen a few videos of replacing with e fans and mechanical fans and they say they worked great. So I'm probably going to play with that. Start mechanical due to it being cheaper to do and change the plumbing for the power steering. Soooo I don't want to buy another motor so I figure I have to separate the fan and power steering pump to hopefully not run into that issue again. Thanks for what you do though helps out greatly.
Did it throw a code? I’m having my engine replaced and I called the shop to check on it today and they told me that they were having a problem with the fan that it was throwing a code on the dash at each time if they would clear it the code would come back
Do you have the part No. on the fluid? Mine was working ok until i refill the ac , now the e-fan kicks every time the compressor is on, after the compressor shuts down it goes back to normal , dont know if its related...
At what Temperature should the hydraulic fan be activated to go into over drive?
Question... Would power steering fluid below the minimum line cause the same problem, you think?
Hmm.. potentially? I suppose if you were low enough to reduce resistance, but not low enough that it caused an issue
What are you using now since they don’t make ms10838?
I found this in the factory service manual: "CAUTION: Use MOPAR Power Steering Fluid or equivalent. Do not use automatic transmission fluid and do not overfill." Do you have the Mopar part number for the correct fluid? Mine (2003 WJ/4.7) runs between 210 and 220 just driving around town, outside temps 70s to 80s so I'm thinking I have the same problem.
OK, I did some Googling and found it takes Chrysler MS-5931F which, apparently Chrysler doesn't make any more. Fortunately you can just buy any PS fluid that specifies that it meets the Chryslet 5931 standard. So I ordered some RedLine and I'll do a flush & refill (Martinbuilt has a video on how to do it) this weekend & see what happens.
Awesome. Let us know how you make out!
Can you give me advise. I can get a 2004 jeep grand cherokee lomited with the 4.7. They say it need a water pump. Has 277,499 mile i can get it for $1500 is it worth it??
You said they stop that pump in 2004 I have a 2005 4.7v8 dodge Durango what pump does it has then ?
You should have a traditional mechanical fan with a backup electric fan instead of this hydraulic fan setup. Lucky!
@@DEInTheGarage not lucky.. I have compression gases going into the coolant😪😪
Dam. Dont you hate that. The owners manual in the glovebox tells us to always use factory recomended fluids from the dealer only !!! Cheers great vids.
I have 01 grand cherokee limited and when runs hot at idle it wants to stall I loose battery and oil pressure gauge but starts back up and runs fine to home.happens every time get hot out.hmmm
I just bought a 2001 at least having the very same problem. The guy I bought it from has it all torn apart so I haven't really looked it over yet but I'm curious as to whether or not the factory put a warning label on the power steering unit oil reservoir saying to use only Mopar power steering fluid.?
Then my other question mark is why would you put ATF in the power steering unit and not put power steering fluid in it?
Do you have a video of when you switched the power steering pump and put the new fluid in need to do to mine cause it’s creeping to 215 in temperature thanks
FYI: I have a 2004 GC overland .. bought in 2016 with 102,000 miles in Pacific Northwest .. went to Southern California for about a year for work .. zero cooling issues even with outside temps at 121 F (desert) .. later went to North Carolina and power steering pump went out .. had it replaced at dealer there .. it ran fine cooling temp fine all the time .. moved to Dallas ran for a year with outside temps as high as 105 all over .. solid cooling slow traffic .. whatever .. went to wichita Kansas .. got ripped off by a criminal dealership (Eddys stay away from like the plague ) my radiator failed after their supposed service of gear oil change ... then the water pump .. they are liars there .. but since then after replacing all that that they sabotaged .. it ran hot in slow traffic fine at speed ... moved down to Austin Texas for the time being .. but was up in Dallas for another job interview and on way back to Austin got stuck in traffic and it ran hot for awhile till it got moving .. found your video and martins’ .. I went to the Jeep dealer here in Austin and their database does NOT have the information in it regarding this PWR steering fluid issue .. absolutely not there .. They are investigating for me .. I ordered the fluid and am going to replace it .. I haven’t had the luxury of being able to do much work on it at home but will anyways .. in Wichita I worked with German engineers there and they were very nice compared to many American engineers who think they are brilliant or have a chip on their shoulder .. but the Germans DO over do their engineering without being smart about maintainability and dependencies (like this pump dependency ). They were doing the same thing on their jet engines and they likely lost WW2 because they did the same thing with their tanks .. over engineered and breakdowns meant loss of battles .. so in that case .. their foolishness was our benefit .. I can’t wait to get the fluid changed to see the difference .. the logic of the viscosity issue of the fluid is perfect .. thanks so much for sharing
That makes perfect sense. I have a 1990 xj with a hydro-boost brake system. Right now I have no brakes! I bet if I flush & put hydrolic fluid in it will solve my problem.
Did you end up replacing the valve seats? Mine has had this exact same issue running a little hot when at stop lights for 3-4 years now. Just rolled 200k and finally found this video
Oh man that's a hard one. We've all herd the horror stories of the 4.7 valve seats. My current thinking is it takes 200deg to expand steel by .001in ( I believe) Well if the engine is still running strong. Then I don't think you crossed the threshold of dropping the seat. Now that's it's running cooler you are wayy better off. OEM heads for the 4.7 look to be like $5-600 (after core rebate) so it's a toss up to rebuild or just buy and then install. But that's alot of work. And I couldn't find anyone non-OEM 'valve seat drop resistant' heads, so you'd be damn close to where you are now. I'd say run that 4.7 as is and keep her cool. Air dams are key to proper air flow.
Yea man, given the amount of work I may just go forward from here and hope for the best. is it eats itself I can pull a junk yard motor and drop the whole thing in for about the same amount of work and money
So glad I found this video. You are correct there’s no info on these 4.7’s. Gonna have to give this a try. Sub’d
Good info! I have an 06 Hemi WK with the hydraulic fan. Thanks Doug..
So my 00’ Durango, 4.7L v8 is experiencing the same issue, now my A/C does NOT work at all. I just replaced my radiator about 4-6 months ago, now I can here the fan is working, just won’t cool down til I shut it off, now also my rig reached around 235-250, I live in the hills in Cali and I barely make it up to my house before she damn near redlines, today as of 9/30/20 my truck got hot enough to shut off. What could it be?
Are you sure it is bled properly? The 4.7 has a unique process to bleed the coolant and if not done it will overheat
I was just about to ask about jeeps that have mechanical fan and electrical fans thanks for the information
I do love my 4.0L! OH and thanks for letting me know that German cars are over- engineered after I got my wife a 2003, VW Passat. Don't get me wrong we've had it as a part of the family for a few years now his name is Blütz cause he's blue and it's been a good car (the AWD is nice in the winter). But sometimes you look at the double amount of everything they put in the car and wonder did they really need to have 4 control arms per wheel? Do you really need 4 $100 oxygen sensors? NOOOOOOOOOOOO I dont think so. But the reason I bring it up is because I did learn one thing. When it comes to fluids in the VW, I do believe that you can find acceptable equivalent fluids that don't have to come from the "Stealership". But they do have to be an EQUIVALENT fluid. It can't just be something similar it has to be something designed to be the same. That being said I don't know if your hydraulic fluid is available from third parties. My 4.0L is so flexible in comparison. I'm using Rotella diesel oil on your recommendation and it's working out great! I put GL -4 In my transmission instead of the Gl-5 recommendation (I kept reading about the GL- 5 being tough on brass synchronizers). Also working out great! Lol random thought! If your 4.7L was to ever cause enough problem that the ocean seems like a better place for it than your driveway, maybe just swap a 4.0L in it! P.S. Thanks for the shout out! I'll send a pic of international Jerry as soon as I get him!
Strange my 2009 dodge truck 1500 manual recommendations atf + 4, but I’m going to try the hydraulic fluid instead
Let me start off by saying 2 things! Great vid, thank you. 2nd. I hate and love the 4.7. I have owned 17 WJs, most with the trusty 4.0, but several with the 4.7. LOL, currently I have #12 my 04 4.7, #16 a 99 4.7 and #17 a 99 4.7. Both my 99s (prob gonna flip) have the awesome mechanical fans as I love, but my 04 has the hydro. Now I have had it over 8 years now and it has 191K miles and never had any issues, I bought from original owner who I know. I am starting to wonder though if I actually have the wrong ps fluid in it as I have noticed that the temp has gone a tad, just a hair past mid point and it has actually felt like my power steering is hesitating when I first start her up. Like for a split sec I have no power steering. Prev owner can't remember ever changing fluids, but also it was taken care of by a few shops over his time.
I watched your vid and started searching for the MOPAR 68234631AA that is the MS10838 and can't find it anywhere. When I thought I found it was the regular fluid MS 5931 that I am guessing is for all other 99 to 04 WJs with the 4.0 or 4.7 non-hydro cooling systems.
Every time I think I have found some as they say for hydro it says MS5931.
I know it has been a few years since you did this vid, and wondering if you still have the WJ and what other issues if any have you had and learned from?
"...and I considered push it into the ocean" "...I was going to burn the Jeep down" -man, I have been on this stage few times in my life. 😎 I went through all bunch of them, few 4.0, 4.7, and currently 2.7 CRD. Greetings from Europe under quarantine 2020.
I think you'll be ok with the valve seats.. it never really "overheated". My wife pinned the temp gauge in the XK and it still seems to be fine 🤷♂️. 🤣
Project Dan H I had seats just drop out of now where and the temp gauge in my whole doesn’t go past half
@@02jeepwj Yikes... Scary thought man. Maybe a previous owner cooked em? 🤷♂️
Project Dan H first one dropped at 10k miles of ownership. 2nd time 2 dropped 200 miles after putting remanned heads on.
@@02jeepwj oh man.. that's scary.. in a 4.7?
@@deplorableconstitutionalis2834 yes.. if you shut it down right away and let it cool there shouldn't be damage
Might pick up a 2001 4.7 tomorrow; having overheating issues, they're selling for cheap. gonna check it out first thing then see what's what
Did you pick it up and fix it?
I have to admit, I’ve thought of going to an empty field and burning it to the ground.. but this is my daily as well and fully stock as a fully equipped limited edition that the sun roof doesn’t leak 🙌.. having searched all over j finally ran into your video and ran out to the driveway to taste what’s in the power steering box..!! Sure enough it smells like that purple crap.. it’s been driving me nuts.. I stare at the temp and if it goes up I take my high blood pressure gummy bears.. having said that I will drive to the Dodge dealer for 2 quarts and will follow up on this comment.. thanks for posting this.. I freeking regret selling my XJ too.. hopefully this will fix my temp from creeping up..
Hey man I have the exact same car. I have a pool size of coolant leak when i drive for 30 mins or so what might be the problem?
im going to start watching your vids more. i have a similar setup 4.7 and havent had an issue with over heating other then the time i purchased it for 500$ from a friend and cyl #8 started taking on coolant. so i rebuilt the 4.7 and had a few hickups as i never owned anything over 4cyl's. i will be doing a trans cooler similar in style to yours, as the p/s already takes up a good amount of radiator space in front.
Awesome. let me know how you make out!
This is the exact issue I am having with my WJ. mine hovers around 210 and if it over 90 degrees my A/C is pretty much useless. I recently had my power steering pump replaced and that did help but I now suspect they did not use the Mopar hydraulic fluid like you recommended. I looked it up but there were several results. Do you happen to still know the part #? Hopefully you do or someone knows. I appreciate any help with this and thank you so much for this video. Damn that hydraulic fan!
I have a 4.7 04 special edition with hydraulic fan pump.
They definitely put them in for 2004 4.7,s
Yep .. my 2004 Jeep GC overland has it
How do you know if you have the hydro fan or not?
I think you should be done with those WJ's and get yourself a nice 4.0 LJ but hey, that's me. Good vid and glad you got it somewhat under control. I'd still push it into the ocean though :)
LJ Dan leave us WJ owners alone 😭 this channel is one of the only good channels that focus on the WJ’s
HAHA... Is that my favorite LJ Toyota guy?? I don;t think I have earned enough good kharma in life yet to deserve my LJ. Dirty old Grands are my calling for now. Maybe someday the universe will reward me :-)
That is why we are here, Brandon. Had to represent!
I’m really appreciate all of that information bro!!I have a 2004 ram 4.7 with that overheated problem. What kind of type or model of power steering pump do you recommend me for my truck?
I put the cheapest one I could find on. It does the truck, but is very loud.Anything from Rockauto should be fine
D&E In The Garage
Bro, thank you so much for help and time, I’m already did the pier steering pump replace but it doesn’t work unfortunately. I have no idea what I’m going to do now. I replace the temperature sensor, thermostat and water pump either. Any idea to find the possible issue that is causing the overheating?
Don’t touch a thing/ u fixed the issue/ this engine is tuff and can take it. Just always put in the correct fluids as u found out. Must change oil every 3000 then no trouble
I'm having a problem with mine building pressure I think the head gasket is failing it doesn't overheat but it is building air pressure in the cooling system
Yea, that is a very common sign of a failing head gasket unfortunately
Awesome video man! Just one small thing, I have a 2004 wj 4.7 it uses the hydro fan as well. I wish they had stopped in 2001 but they used it till the end.
No kidding... kind of a bummer
Martinbuilt has a video about adjusting the speed of your hydraulic fan by turning in a valve on the solenoid.
Yea, I saw that one. I was considering trying it, or atleast getting that tachometer he has so I can confirm mine is spinning as it should
Having issues with the hydraulic fan as well wife bought 03 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 4.7 shit man I replaced water pump thermostat and fluid change and changed the cooling sensor spend hours why it’s still over heating literally lol
Wow great information. I myself would never have thought about it having the wrong fluid. In reality the $40 for the fluid isn't that expensive given how often do people actually change power steering fluid? Never LOL.
LOL.. fair point
What would be a reason I can hear my power steering pump hiss softly when I turn my or my climate control(so everything is silent) I turn the steering wheel and the sound changes so that how I assume it’s my power steering. From what I can see my reservoir is full and cool aid red in color
Could be your pump is going? What engine are we talking about?
D&E In The Garage 2004 4.7 of course... also the cool aid red color I was taking about I believe was the brake fluid reservoir.. so I’m unsure about my power steering fluid levels
Dealing with a similar issue, Replaced radiator and suddenly i have a code saying either faulty solenoid or wiring. Anyways i go and unhook the temp sensor and the fan shoots into hyper mode. The guys on the jeepforum seem to think i should just try and replace the solenoid. Would you have any recommendations?
Yea, those solenoids do tend to go. I think you have to get one out of a junk yard as I dont think they sell just the solenoid
Thanks, any avalanche videos in the works??
@@johnb9842 Yea, other projects have pulled me away, but I have the next video planned. Unfortunately I do not have a free weekend until sometime in March, so it may be a while before I can get back to it. At the very least I will go hard on it this spring
Amsoil synthetic power steering is compatible for the WJ.
My 91 XJ seemed to like overheating as well and when I looked at everything I thought it was all fine, I checked the radiator fluid and it was fine and I checked all the others as well. However my coolant tank was empty but I thought it was fine since the radiator was full so I kept driving it a little bit and it seemed to get so hot that it started to slightly leak out of the passenger front bottom of the radiator and I thought it was doing that cause it was overheating. So I was like what the heck and just topped off the coolant tank, and when I started it and drove around for about 10 mins at operating temperature, it was running cooler so I checked the tank and the engine drank like a 1/4 of what the tank was holding. I suppose it went to the radiator. So I topped it off again and it hasn’t gotten lower since. The radiator only seems to leak when it gets really hot. And that only happens now if I’m sitting in 91 degree weather without moving the Jeep at all and it’s just idling and the e fan is off, otherwise it doesn’t leak for some reason.
The bottle reads mopar electric steering pump fluid??
I hope it all works out. I was worried I have seen issues with 4.7 but man that’s true of every motor. No one goes online to say hey this is the greatest motor about any motor. Tell someone comes up with an issue and they feel they have to defend what they bought like a 3.8 JK guy. I have a 5.7 hemi and now I’m worried about the freakin’ cam. It to is my driver and I just had 3 hand and arm surgeries I can do it. Do I run redline oil as people are saying at 90-100$ an oil change. As we say in bike racing ignorance is bliss. The fastest riders don’t even know how to tune up a bike. Me I go into a corner and it’s like that feels like the axle bearing is a little loose or the bike doesn’t rev out correctly today is it lean etc? The average consumer believes what the mechanic says and goes with that tell catastrophic failure. But drives happy tell then But a dealer serviced Jeep would have $20 PS fluid in it. Ugh now I’m worried the drain plugs tight in my XJ. As I head out to find an oil leak on my daughters Patriot so someone else Can fix it witch hurts my pride. Good luck my friend. Another good vid. Hey fluid wise tell me what to truly run in the 5 speed trans in my XJ so it shifts better I’d pay $20 a quart lol.
Haha.. fair point.
Sadly, I have slightly over heated mine (212 degrees or so) a few times since I have owned mine. Luckily I have not noticed any obvious issues caused by the slight over heating. I do know at around 200k miles ( currently 225k miles) the motor was completely rebuilt due to previous owners son running it out of oil and over heating it. Hopefully he went with Odessa heads (odessa "fixed" the valve seat problem) and I don't have to worry about that issue. After I did the mechanical fan conversion I have had a few times my temps reached 210-212 on a hot day sitting in traffic. That will be fixed in a couple weeks when I get a fan shroud from a 4.0 and I unblock the top 1/3 of the mechanical fan blades from pulling from the radiator.
I am in the process of searching the yard around me for a clean HO to rebuild and swap in. I like the 4.7, but I want to be able to trust it. I have heard a lot of stories like your though which give me hope.
Works with the 2012 3.6 also?
Still having this issue have mopar hydraulic fluid in mine and the fan never goes on high!
Aww. Makes me feel bad for the 4.7 WJ who tried racing my 5.2 ZJ today. I wasn't even trying to race i just thought his rusty heap was gonna launch his rusty hanging fuel tank plate at my rust-free ZJ. Just needed to get around him.
His fuel tank skid plate was flapping like crazy.
I dont understand why so many WJ guys ignore the tank skids rotting right out of their Jeeps.... Do you want your gas tank to fall out? Because that is how your gas tank falls out..
@@DEInTheGarage Dude, i don't know why they went with the inferior design. The ZJ fuel tank straps are perfect. I rarely see them snap, rust, or sag...
I got rid of the hydraulic fan I lost a bit of power and and mpg loss but I went to the mechanical over electric fan setup, here is the mod tho I went to a 12 blade 16" fan blade for a Ford Dorman pn620-149
I had to modify the fan cluch a tiny bit and drill out the bolt holes a little bigger ....
FYI this was recommended from another channel for the fan
and let's say you damage your panel to get to the relay under the headlight and it's not there. It's in another location. No idea. New radiator & I overheat at idle, no idea where the relay is.