I just flushed my cooling system in my 01XJ a few months ago cause my heater core never worked. Previous owner had put water in mine as well. I brought it to the mechanic when I got the car around 2 years ago and they said they flushed it, but the heater still never worked. I ended up flushing the block, radiator and heater core. Took out the thermostst and let a mixture of prestone radiator flush and distiled water run through for about 3 hours. Then I drained the whole thing and filled it with coolant. Definitely recomend that stuff, but I know that some people are against it. Heater now blows hotter than my moms brand new audi Q5 lol. Great video as always, keep it up man.
Thank you for making this video. I’ve watched a few. You have the best explanation/visual and narration in my opinion, and I feel a little more confident about tackling this now. 😎🤙
This is exceptional- great audio, good cam angles and you keep the dialog on point. I’m saving a ‘98 that my in-laws tried to let go to rot….but it’s bone stock and in the family from new. Perfect! I’ll definitely be back.
Well, if by vacuum system you mean EVAP system, I do got a video for that otherwise, the CCV system and other vacuum actuated things I could do a video on
Good timing lol, I just did this last week! You can also use compressed air to blow out the radiator and block after flushing, to get any hose water out. Love this channel by the way, best XJ videos on UA-cam!
The fogs lights have been a pending project for quite some time now, but I've learned that XJs without them sometimes don't even have the wiring in the main vehicle harness for them. Not even pins in the relay box. So its a very involved swap, unless you happen to be lucky enough to already have the wires in place. I'm working on finding out what years and what options mean which wires will exist, and where.
Great video as always sir. Always look forward to your uploads. I converted my Comanche to an open cooling system a while back, i think i need to flush it out again tho. Might have to do that soon.
when i did my water pump last month, i bought an ac delco one and a felpr gasket, indidnt even attempt to use the ac delco gasket, i couldnt believe it but it sealed without the gasket, a month with the new pump and so far so good
Just did this on mine. I flushed it and ran evaporust thermocure in the system for a couple days and drove around for 5 hours over those two days before I flushed it some more and filled with 50/50. I had trouble getting my heater core to start taking in water when it was warm and found that squeezing the upper radiator hose while holding a rag to keep from getting burnt, forced enough pressure in the system to fill the heater core and properly burp. Took it for a drive with a full overflow and after about 40 minutes I checked and it sucked down almost the whole overflow, so I topped it back off and it’s been good since. Also, I was able to use the paper gasket without any RTV and have no leaks. Did I miss it, or did you completely skip the thermostat install procedure? What a pain to line it all up perfectly without knocking the tstat off it’s lip!
I did skip the thermostat, just because it wasn't the main focus of the video, and doesn't need to come off with the water pump. I got a separate video for the thermostat I've used that cooling system flush stuff before, it probably saved my engine block
I used a plastic Prestone flush tee one time, in a diesel '89 F-250 I owned many moons ago. I was heading to the Washington state coast, towing a travel trailer, and the cap on the tee cracked, blowing coolant (and steam; I was towing a 6,000 pound trailer up and down some hills, so my temps were around 230) all over in the engine bay. I had installed it roughly a year prior and hadn't hit it or bumped it; it just randomly failed. I always carried extra engine oil, coolant, and ATF in that truck, so I wasn't stranded, but I will NEVER use another plastic flush tee; that was not a fun experience.
It was likely the heat cycles. I towed a fair amount with that truck, and those IDIs can run all the way up to 230 when towing heavy and still be fine. It was probably not a good idea to have a thin plastic cap on a heavy towing diesel truck, but I still won't use one.
I had one on my old 86 CJ-7 for 8 years and no leaks. Daily driver with some occasional rock crawling. It would be nice if they had an aluminum or brass version. T and cap.@@WAEMIDIV
If the water pump remains on the engine, you can still flush the block all the same, water will come out of the lower radiator hose outlet from the water pump
In the future, when you use the T fitting to flush the system, how is the flush going to get past the thermostat and into the block? Also, how are you going to get all the hose water out post T fitting flush?
There is a small bypass route from the heater hose into the thermostat housing, and it'll also go the other way through the heater core and past the water pump. I have no idea how to get the hose water back out though.
That quiet “clack clack clack” that can be heard in the background when he is bleeding the system, is that lifter? Or something worse like piston slap or loose flywheel. I am having the same issues and trying to chase it down. Thanks!!!
On my engine in particular, this clacking noise is definitely bottom end. It's not a lifter and it's definitely not piston slap, and my flywheel is 100% confirmed to be properly torqued (I replaced it not long ago, and the engine was making this noise before then anyway) Lifter tick is definitely more of a tick, like dropping the head of a screwdriver onto a flat metal surface, and it gets LOUD when the lifters aren't properly lubricated or if a valve is stuck. Piston slap tends to cause more of a misfire-like behavior, and sounds like heavy knocking from deep in the engine, it can vary from light clattering to pretty much a hammer hitting the block. What you hear here is the rod bearings nearing the end of their life, which is probably worse than anything else listed. The clattering is from a Connecting rod bouncing off the crankshaft every time it rotates. This is like, the worst noise, you never want to hear an engine make. However, upon noticing the issue, I proceeded to drive it about 30,000 more miles all over the country only changing the oil as needed, and nothing's happened, because it's a 4.0L and they're indestructible
@@WAEMIDIV I'm pretty sure my engine makes a similar sound, and has been for the past 2 years. 'Near' might just indicate failing somewhere in the next two decades
Must be a Michigan thing my block was rusted I flushed it and it is still green. Ya know your coolant is supposed to be GREEEN ya know that right???? Not rust colored 😢
Yes I actually did use the fitting to get air out, but I didn't want to include that because it may confuse newcomers who just wanna replace the water pump.
![Jeep Cherokee: Rear Disc Brake Swap - KJ/ZJ No Welding; Bolt-on Conversion ['91-'01 XJ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hoSTNrbwCAk/mqdefault.jpg)
I just flushed my cooling system in my 01XJ a few months ago cause my heater core never worked. Previous owner had put water in mine as well. I brought it to the mechanic when I got the car around 2 years ago and they said they flushed it, but the heater still never worked. I ended up flushing the block, radiator and heater core. Took out the thermostst and let a mixture of prestone radiator flush and distiled water run through for about 3 hours. Then I drained the whole thing and filled it with coolant. Definitely recomend that stuff, but I know that some people are against it. Heater now blows hotter than my moms brand new audi Q5 lol. Great video as always, keep it up man.
Thank you for making this video. I’ve watched a few. You have the best explanation/visual and narration in my opinion, and I feel a little more confident about tackling this now. 😎🤙
This is exceptional- great audio, good cam angles and you keep the dialog on point. I’m saving a ‘98 that my in-laws tried to let go to rot….but it’s bone stock and in the family from new. Perfect! I’ll definitely be back.
A video of the vaccum system would be very beneficial and a Greta addition to your channel an plus a great walk through would be super helpful
Well, if by vacuum system you mean EVAP system, I do got a video for that
otherwise, the CCV system and other vacuum actuated things I could do a video on
@@WAEMIDIVccv and other , I gota te do mine basically so ur vid would be great help like always
Good timing lol, I just did this last week!
You can also use compressed air to blow out the radiator and block after flushing, to get any hose water out.
Love this channel by the way, best XJ videos on UA-cam!
that's a good idea
I'll have to employ that trick when I flush it next time
Remember on pressure greater than cap ( 15 psi...)
Straight to the point, the way I like it! Thanks for the great informative video.
You should do a video on how to do factory fog lighs man id watch it ur vids are better then most for jeeps and helpful
The fogs lights have been a pending project for quite some time now, but I've learned that XJs without them sometimes don't even have the wiring in the main vehicle harness for them. Not even pins in the relay box. So its a very involved swap, unless you happen to be lucky enough to already have the wires in place. I'm working on finding out what years and what options mean which wires will exist, and where.
Quality video. Excellent angles and good insight
Great video as always sir. Always look forward to your uploads. I converted my Comanche to an open cooling system a while back, i think i need to flush it out again tho. Might have to do that soon.
Great video with lots of good info.
Very well explained video, great u go strait to the point and make it simple, new sub broda!
Nice video ! Even worked on my xj today , for some reason helps me relax ! Xj nation !
Damn that one car just going back to nature at 2:30 lol
That's the MJ I'll sell you for $25
@@WAEMIDIV Let it sit for about 5 years and I might come do a will it start video and claim it sat since 1994
Love your videos saved my ass a bunch of times
when i did my water pump last month, i bought an ac delco one and a felpr gasket, indidnt even attempt to use the ac delco gasket, i couldnt believe it but it sealed without the gasket, a month with the new pump and so far so good
Great video as always!
Excellent
Just did this on mine. I flushed it and ran evaporust thermocure in the system for a couple days and drove around for 5 hours over those two days before I flushed it some more and filled with 50/50. I had trouble getting my heater core to start taking in water when it was warm and found that squeezing the upper radiator hose while holding a rag to keep from getting burnt, forced enough pressure in the system to fill the heater core and properly burp. Took it for a drive with a full overflow and after about 40 minutes I checked and it sucked down almost the whole overflow, so I topped it back off and it’s been good since. Also, I was able to use the paper gasket without any RTV and have no leaks.
Did I miss it, or did you completely skip the thermostat install procedure? What a pain to line it all up perfectly without knocking the tstat off it’s lip!
I did skip the thermostat, just because it wasn't the main focus of the video, and doesn't need to come off with the water pump. I got a separate video for the thermostat
I've used that cooling system flush stuff before, it probably saved my engine block
yummy yummy that Gates green belt
It does taste green
Great video. I am surprised with the amount of chocolate milk that you used as coolant.
very helpful video ! How does GMB compare to Airtex ?
I have no idea, I've only ever used GMB, I can't really compare brands
a water pump is a water pump
Yeah! 7:28 my pump made a cameo 😂
I used a plastic Prestone flush tee one time, in a diesel '89 F-250 I owned many moons ago. I was heading to the Washington state coast, towing a travel trailer, and the cap on the tee cracked, blowing coolant (and steam; I was towing a 6,000 pound trailer up and down some hills, so my temps were around 230) all over in the engine bay. I had installed it roughly a year prior and hadn't hit it or bumped it; it just randomly failed. I always carried extra engine oil, coolant, and ATF in that truck, so I wasn't stranded, but I will NEVER use another plastic flush tee; that was not a fun experience.
Duly noted
how long did it last before it cracked?
Maybe tons of heat cycles wore it down
It was likely the heat cycles. I towed a fair amount with that truck, and those IDIs can run all the way up to 230 when towing heavy and still be fine. It was probably not a good idea to have a thin plastic cap on a heavy towing diesel truck, but I still won't use one.
I had one on my old 86 CJ-7 for 8 years and no leaks. Daily driver with some occasional rock crawling. It would be nice if they had an aluminum or brass version. T and cap.@@WAEMIDIV
Yeah but when do 01 xjs switch to torx headed screws
I'm working on it
I've got it narrowed down to a 7 day span
I assume you skip the block flushing part if you’re not changing the water pump Just flush everything else?
If the water pump remains on the engine, you can still flush the block all the same, water will come out of the lower radiator hose outlet from the water pump
In the future, when you use the T fitting to flush the system, how is the flush going to get past the thermostat and into the block? Also, how are you going to get all the hose water out post T fitting flush?
There is a small bypass route from the heater hose into the thermostat housing, and it'll also go the other way through the heater core and past the water pump. I have no idea how to get the hose water back out though.
That quiet “clack clack clack” that can be heard in the background when he is bleeding the system, is that lifter? Or something worse like piston slap or loose flywheel. I am having the same issues and trying to chase it down. Thanks!!!
On my engine in particular, this clacking noise is definitely bottom end. It's not a lifter and it's definitely not piston slap, and my flywheel is 100% confirmed to be properly torqued (I replaced it not long ago, and the engine was making this noise before then anyway)
Lifter tick is definitely more of a tick, like dropping the head of a screwdriver onto a flat metal surface, and it gets LOUD when the lifters aren't properly lubricated or if a valve is stuck.
Piston slap tends to cause more of a misfire-like behavior, and sounds like heavy knocking from deep in the engine, it can vary from light clattering to pretty much a hammer hitting the block.
What you hear here is the rod bearings nearing the end of their life, which is probably worse than anything else listed. The clattering is from a Connecting rod bouncing off the crankshaft every time it rotates. This is like, the worst noise, you never want to hear an engine make.
However, upon noticing the issue, I proceeded to drive it about 30,000 more miles all over the country only changing the oil as needed, and nothing's happened, because it's a 4.0L and they're indestructible
@@WAEMIDIV I'm pretty sure my engine makes a similar sound, and has been for the past 2 years. 'Near' might just indicate failing somewhere in the next two decades
I had good luck with using wood bleach to unrust my system. Just be sure to take your heater core out of the loop first.
Wood bleach? w a t
is that bleach for wood?
@@WAEMIDIV Yes, it's exactly that. It's also powdered oxalic acid.
Must be a Michigan thing my block was rusted I flushed it and it is still green. Ya know your coolant is supposed to be GREEEN ya know that right???? Not rust colored 😢
skill issue
19:20 My brother, use grease.
You use the T fitting in the heater hose to bleed air out of the cooling system with minimal screwing around. It's the highest point in the system.
Yes I actually did use the fitting to get air out, but I didn't want to include that because it may confuse newcomers who just wanna replace the water pump.