For future reference: 2:00 Glove Trick 3:00 Tool substitutions 4:10 Bond your tool in place 7:24 Drill out (keep drill in reverse) Thank you for all these great ideas...
If you’re using the sacrificial allen key trick, bond the long end of the key into the screw. Once it sets, turn the short end with a small-diameter pipe or by grabbing onto it with an adjustable spanner for leverage. Once the bolt comes off, saw off the bonded end and round its sharp corners with a file. One sacrificial key lets you remove quite a few bolts.
@@khchoi2012 Reading into things a bit too much, eh? A man after me' own heart! But yeah, blowtorches are not the most common tools around the parts I live in - I don't know anyone who owns one. I also wouldn't recommend using one here, since someone will start using a blowtorch on teh bolts of their carbon full-sus... :D Oh, and there are 5-minute variants of e.g. epoxies that can do the trick - the only thing those are really good for, imho.
I used this video to help my son with a screw holding his laptop SSD in place. Can always trust Doddy - best video on the topic on UA-cam. PS used all the techniques. For the third, only had superglue, which didn't work. Using the extractor kit drill bit in reverse was enough. I was patient power Doddy's advice, and once it's drilled far enough in, there was enough friction that the screw started turning. Voila.
Bonus trick: You often can find a bit of undamaged hex profile hidden under dirt so it is a good idea to clean out the head. This often helped me on the cleat screws
The glue-method is really genius. Never seen that before. I had success in creating two flat surfaces for a spanner but this only works if you have enough space like on bottle cage screws.
Thanks for Video. I was able to use the rubber glove method to remove a slightly striped allen bolt out of my wheelchair brake lever and then replace it with a new one. You really helped me out of a jam.
Ive been in and around mechanic and electrical for mist if ny life machine shops...ive used extractirs and such before drilled out...i just had an issue in my motorcycle..one allen screw was a bit tighter then the others and stripped it a bit. It being in an isolated position could not cut slits, wrench. Didnt want to have to drill and did not have a four square to pound in. The glove trick. Magnificent. Just the little extra bite it needed. In all honesty i thought to fill the gap but had figured steel wool paper. Was not sure. Worked like a charm. Thank u. Saved quite a bit of trouble great tip.
The glove trick man, that was gold!!! Always used elastic bands for stripped screws, but for small screws it was always hit-n-miss. With your silicone glove trick they don't.
jb weld .place a small ball of jb weld into the rounded bolt head then put allan key in as normal letting the weld form around the allan key then remove allankey wait for it set and job done.
Super handy tips. + In my experience, Araldite or any other epoxy will peel off metal rather easily, twist the bolt with pliers and it will go... Happy new year!
I've used most of them over time (the joys of old bikes and Daihatsu cars). I also keep a tube of metal epoxy putty with me when I go anywhere on/in any vehicle. I've used it similar to how you used the epoxy resin on bolt heads, I've used it to patch cracked frames and rims on bikes, fix holes in oil sumps on engines, fix go-pro mounts etc etc. It's very very useful stuff. Oddly enough, nearly all the times I've used it, has been fixes for other people.
How do you reading my mind? I'm just bought a new bike for mom & I got tons of stuff for upgrade at home, but few days ago faced such a problem with stuck bolts at handlebars grips. Thank you!
I had the same exact problem the other day. I used my 1/8" drill bit to make a nice clean hole, then took my T25 Torx bit and hammered it into the clean hole. It opened up the hole on each of the splines, and even the small amount of purchase on the torx bit was enough to get it to grab hold and remove it. Then I hammered in a larger allen wrench and now it's a brand new bolt, which I subsequently used to reinstall the grips on another set of handlebars! Good luck!
Before the more extreme methods, you can also try using the part of the pliers that have teeth to grab the whole head of the bolt if it protrudes enough. I might or might not have taken multiple bottle cage bolts out this way.
I am very proud of my Park Tool hex wrench set (same as the one in the background behind Doddy) - about £70!! But like all expensive stuff, you never regret buying them once you have them.
Timely video, thanks Doddy! I've got a rounded bolt on the lower pivot assembly gonna see which of these ways work best once Intense gets me the new bits to put in...
Some good ideas here. Regarding drilling and using stud extractors/ezy outs. If it fails extracting using the head of the bolt you can using a hard metal cutting drill just drill straight into the centre of the bolt further down than the head. For this you'll need to use ezy outs by hand. A power tool will most likely snap them.
I can add one to the list. I have carefully hammered an Allen key in the bolt, then when the Allen key feels secure it can be unscrew. Of course, only when the damage is on the first layer of the head. Nice tips! Many thanks for a chilean linving in Germany Felipe
Method 1.5: VICE GRIPS. If there is enough of the bolt head exposed (so many are countersunk which makes this method redundant in that instance)... Clamp the vice grips onto the bolt head ensuring there is some room for counter clockwise rotation. Put an Allen key in the head with the arm diagonally opposite to the vice grips (so you can hold the pair like a T bar giving even more torque to the job. Vice grips / pliers are also a forgotten gem for removing rounded screws... the smaller the vice grips the better for more precise grip. And (bonus?) tip... Use penetrating oil on the bolts... and try doing them up a pinch, sometimes breaking the friction clockwise is enough to let the penetrating oil in, and the bolt comes out with the standard alen key, no other trick needed. Heat is also another way.. but can damage aluminium, seals, paint, fingers, reputation...
Perfectly timed video. I was able to extract a rounded out Allen key screw that was holding the derailleur hanger on my Whyte S150. Came out in 2 mins using the techniques here
Really great video! I've got this problem about 2 years ago on a bottle cage- mount. I've worked with the rubber band method too, but I couldn't get enugh traction on the inside of the fitting, so I wrapped it arouond the bolt head and then I used a hack which I've got from a car mechanic: I took some pliers and grabbed the outside of the bolthead with the rubber in between and turned the bolt in- and out, just a little bit and a couple of times until it felt really loose and then I was able to get rid of it. I'd be interested what you think about this hack! Happy new year!
I literally just stripped a bolt because I'm an idiot and this video came out. I was trying to remove the chainrings from my xt crankset to make it a 1x, they are torx T30 which is a key I don't have and me being the idiot I am tried removing them using a 4mm allen key... Surprisingly 7 of them came out undamaged but one got stripped.
Awesome video, so helpful and I’ll be using your advice on a rear derailleur tension screw tomorrow! Was wondering how I was going to get the little bugger out! Thanks!
Another tip that is sacrificial to Alan wrenches is to get a size or 2 bigger wrench than the actual bolt and use a hammer to hit it in and reshape the bolt.
Small drill down the center and a small easy out. Know your materials and apply a heat gun and WD-40 or similar to penetrate first. Worst case you drill it out and insert a heli-coil.
I have soldered in a Allen key before, same idea as the bonding but because you use solder you can actually reuse the Allen key because you can heat the solder and clean it off
Just managed to get the tapered head bolt out of my Shimano cranks by using an extractor drill which didn't work but it did remove the worst of the damage from the outer surface and then I tried a different short, straight, 5mm allen key with a ratchet wrench - this worked a treat. Poor quality Shimano scoket head setscrews in my opinion Doddy - wear safety glasses when using extractors as they are notorious for breaking!
Cheers for this; this has given me enough inspiration for my stripped bolt even though they are on some fairing screws on my scooter!, I have tried this before sometimes with disc rotor bolts it just created a dip and were truly stuck in there. I do have a high powered drill and metal bits too. One idea was to fashion some kind of mini crow bar as mine are mushroom flat head and getting a purchase with a hammer 🔨 nail hoofed claw was not feasible, out of an old piece of sheet metal or tool and bending the end like a hook maybe cutting a slit with my junior hacksaw blade. Definitely using my new WD-40 before I do anything to 😊, also I hear heat using a heat hot air gun can help with seized bolts
My XT crank had a stripped head, used an M10 drill bit to remove the head which allowed me to take off the chainring. I then used pliers to turn the remainder of the bolt and out of the crank.
I have used an slightly smaller drill bit to drill out the majority of the bolt/screw. then pick out the rest of the remaining bolt/screw from the treat then clean it up with a correct size tap.
Going to need to try these. Was going to adjust the shifter on my bike and no clue what the shop I got my bike from did to that one little 3mm on the shifter. All the others have been fine but that one 3mm is not coming out. Going to have to give it a try with a better Allen key than my topeak multi tool
1. You can save the sacrificial Allan key by heating it 2. Wera make hex bits and L-keys and other tools that have a specific head design that make it so you get better grip.
Hammering in a torx bit that is slightly bigger than the cap head bolt that has been rounded usually works for me. Option 2 that I have used in work (probably less suitable for bikes) is using a tig welder to tack a hex head bolt to the cap head and then using a spanner to undo
Heat. Before trying any of these methods heat the surrounding metal/carbon with a hair dryer then cool the stuck/damaged fixing (air or water). Always be careful not to over do it with the heat though. You can also use a centre punch to dent the head and the angle it in the direction to undo. Lastly if you have access use an impact driver rather than a drill as that will help it to come out.
You can also simply use vise grips or water pump pliers to remove the bolt.Because the bolts on a bicycle have a big surface.There are many ways to remove rounded bolts.
Great video mate. I could not see you opening a security bolt. Is that for safety reasons ? Im hoping mine is just soft steel and I can drill it out, but it is slipping at the moment. I know on cars, they are really tough and cannot be drilled ..
Have you used any of these techniques?
No, M8
Yet
I guess that welding an Allen key to the bolt isn't recommended......
Yes! The Bolt Extractor, worked like a charm
great techniques, i cant wait to try the nitril rubber glove one.. You forgot Vicegrips.
No, but I will - Thank you!
P.S. I use Vice Grips, and also cut a slot for a screw driver.
For future reference:
2:00 Glove Trick
3:00 Tool substitutions
4:10 Bond your tool in place
7:24 Drill out (keep drill in reverse)
Thank you for all these great ideas...
Thanks for the cheat sheet :) It will save me some time and allow me to focus on what I am looking for.
Thanks
I've been a mechanic for 20 years. I had never seen the trick with the rubber glove. Super thx. We always keep learning :-)
If you’re using the sacrificial allen key trick, bond the long end of the key into the screw. Once it sets, turn the short end with a small-diameter pipe or by grabbing onto it with an adjustable spanner for leverage. Once the bolt comes off, saw off the bonded end and round its sharp corners with a file. One sacrificial key lets you remove quite a few bolts.
A blow lamp will unbond the allen key, then scrape off any residue with a stanley knife. Use time and time again.
It sounds like you're single and have plenty of time in your hand. I'd rather like the blow torch it quickly.
@@khchoi2012 Reading into things a bit too much, eh? A man after me' own heart! But yeah, blowtorches are not the most common tools around the parts I live in - I don't know anyone who owns one. I also wouldn't recommend using one here, since someone will start using a blowtorch on teh bolts of their carbon full-sus... :D Oh, and there are 5-minute variants of e.g. epoxies that can do the trick - the only thing those are really good for, imho.
Actually, that sacrificial Allen key can still be saved. Put it in the freezer overnight, and the epoxy bond will break.
You can use a saw to make a cut in the bolt and then use a flat screwdriver.
you can also combine drilling the head off and then cut a slot
Yes, I used that on a rotor bolt, worked great
I was waiting for that and then he took out fucking glue 😂
I use a Dremel with a little cutting disc.
Way harder than using a knipex cobra plier.
The first tip with the glove is genius. Worked immediately.
I used this video to help my son with a screw holding his laptop SSD in place. Can always trust Doddy - best video on the topic on UA-cam.
PS used all the techniques. For the third, only had superglue, which didn't work. Using the extractor kit drill bit in reverse was enough. I was patient power Doddy's advice, and once it's drilled far enough in, there was enough friction that the screw started turning. Voila.
Bonus trick: You often can find a bit of undamaged hex profile hidden under dirt so it is a good idea to clean out the head. This often helped me on the cleat screws
Yeah I had to do this for one of my caliper bolt
Not cleaning hex heads out in the first place is the only way I've ever stripped one.
This happens to me so much that I may as well shortcut this video so I can watch it at a moments notice. Super helpful. Thanks Doddy 👍
Hope it helps you out Sam!
I made a cut with a dremel then used a phillips head screwdriver...
*Before you mess it up, take the Allen key and put it on the bolt, and hit it in with a mallet and try turning it.*
The glue-method is really genius. Never seen that before. I had success in creating two flat surfaces for a spanner but this only works if you have enough space like on bottle cage screws.
Thanks for Video. I was able to use the rubber glove method to remove a slightly striped allen bolt out of my wheelchair brake lever and then replace it with a new one. You really helped me out of a jam.
Man I'm really mad whole day because of my broken brake bolts. You gave me hope. Thank you and more power!
my work doesn't know that this channel is how iv'e learned to be a mechanic
UA-cam certified
You're not alone. Underqualified and overpaid gang.
Used the rubber glove trick on a stripped bolt in a door frame with a manual screwdriver and it worked!! Saved a trip to the hardware store.
Depends whether you can get to the side of the head of the bolt. You can file 2 parallel edges on the head. Use an adjustable spanner to open it.
Ive been in and around mechanic and electrical for mist if ny life machine shops...ive used extractirs and such before drilled out...i just had an issue in my motorcycle..one allen screw was a bit tighter then the others and stripped it a bit. It being in an isolated position could not cut slits, wrench. Didnt want to have to drill and did not have a four square to pound in. The glove trick. Magnificent. Just the little extra bite it needed. In all honesty i thought to fill the gap but had figured steel wool paper. Was not sure. Worked like a charm. Thank u. Saved quite a bit of trouble great tip.
“Time to time” me who is more used to Allen wrenches slipping than actually working
Every component on all my bikes have either a single or multiple rounded, or you can see marks where I have slipped
Gotta use good quality properly fitting tool.
Yeah I think your tools are the problem I'd get some new ones if you can
Never use cheap tools, because they don't fit properly and you'll destroy the things you work on
Knipex Cobra Pliers. Best tool I have purchased hands down. Stripped bolts are easily removed.
what am I supposed to do with these
@@antoanangelov5672 type into Google “knipex stripped bolt”. Not sure I needed to type it out for ya, but no worries! Happy new year!
Thank you for the pointers! I had just finished messing up a shock mount bolt .... Rubber glove trick worked like a charm!! I appreciate it!!!
The glove trick man, that was gold!!! Always used elastic bands for stripped screws, but for small screws it was always hit-n-miss. With your silicone glove trick they don't.
jb weld .place a small ball of jb weld into the rounded bolt head then put allan key in as normal
letting the weld form around the allan key then remove allankey wait for it set and job done.
There's a few types of jb weld, which type should we be using? Jb Plastic weld or jb steel weld? Which one did you use?
Super handy tips.
+ In my experience, Araldite or any other epoxy will peel off metal rather easily, twist the bolt with pliers and it will go...
Happy new year!
Thank you for the glove technique. I just did it on my crank with both bolts getting rounded. Worked perfectly!
I've used most of them over time (the joys of old bikes and Daihatsu cars). I also keep a tube of metal epoxy putty with me when I go anywhere on/in any vehicle. I've used it similar to how you used the epoxy resin on bolt heads, I've used it to patch cracked frames and rims on bikes, fix holes in oil sumps on engines, fix go-pro mounts etc etc. It's very very useful stuff. Oddly enough, nearly all the times I've used it, has been fixes for other people.
Glove trick worked like a charm!
you literally just saved my brand new shock, thank you so much!!!
How do you reading my mind? I'm just bought a new bike for mom & I got tons of stuff for upgrade at home, but few days ago faced such a problem with stuck bolts at handlebars grips. Thank you!
Hope you get them out!
I had the same exact problem the other day. I used my 1/8" drill bit to make a nice clean hole, then took my T25 Torx bit and hammered it into the clean hole. It opened up the hole on each of the splines, and even the small amount of purchase on the torx bit was enough to get it to grab hold and remove it. Then I hammered in a larger allen wrench and now it's a brand new bolt, which I subsequently used to reinstall the grips on another set of handlebars! Good luck!
Best and most original ideas ive seen on this subject
Before the more extreme methods, you can also try using the part of the pliers that have teeth to grab the whole head of the bolt if it protrudes enough.
I might or might not have taken multiple bottle cage bolts out this way.
The rubber glove method was genuis and I’ve finally got my stripped Disc Rotor screw out after nearly giving up on the Wheel 👍
I am very proud of my Park Tool hex wrench set (same as the one in the background behind Doddy) - about £70!! But like all expensive stuff, you never regret buying them once you have them.
Timely video, thanks Doddy! I've got a rounded bolt on the lower pivot assembly gonna see which of these ways work best once Intense gets me the new bits to put in...
You can also cut a rounded (or bonded) allen key shorter, and keep on using it.
Thanks for that video. I have just rounded Allen 8 socket for Praxis crankset bolt. I don't loose my hope to avoid cut my cranckset out.Cheers
Used all those hack plenty of times except the bonding solution. Quite clever way to do it. Very nice video.
Some good ideas here. Regarding drilling and using stud extractors/ezy outs. If it fails extracting using the head of the bolt you can using a hard metal cutting drill just drill straight into the centre of the bolt further down than the head. For this you'll need to use ezy outs by hand. A power tool will most likely snap them.
Very nice. Well done. It helped A LOT. Now I'll try THESE methods in the morning. Thank YOU.
Brilliant tips . I always add safety glasses to my list of tools when drilling 00.
LOL
I can add one to the list. I have carefully hammered an Allen key in the bolt, then when the Allen key feels secure it can be unscrew. Of course, only when the damage is on the first layer of the head.
Nice tips!
Many thanks for a chilean linving in Germany
Felipe
The latex/rubber glove method was the solution for me to remove 4 stubborn Shimano inner chainring bolts (torx 25). Thanks!!!
Epoxy method is brilliant. If there's room to grab, good old vise grip pliers can work as well.
Very useful thank you, about the sacrificial allen key, you could use a grinder to cut it and have it ready for a next job.
Thanks Doddy,
that's actually a really useful set of tricks!!! :)
You absolute bloody wonder. Nitrile rubber glove worked beautifully for me! Cheers!
Hi Doddy, thanks!! It works. The rubber did really works. Thanks man. Respects to you.
Method 1.5: VICE GRIPS.
If there is enough of the bolt head exposed (so many are countersunk which makes this method redundant in that instance)...
Clamp the vice grips onto the bolt head ensuring there is some room for counter clockwise rotation.
Put an Allen key in the head with the arm diagonally opposite to the vice grips (so you can hold the pair like a T bar giving even more torque to the job.
Vice grips / pliers are also a forgotten gem for removing rounded screws... the smaller the vice grips the better for more precise grip.
And (bonus?) tip...
Use penetrating oil on the bolts... and try doing them up a pinch, sometimes breaking the friction clockwise is enough to let the penetrating oil in, and the bolt comes out with the standard alen key, no other trick needed.
Heat is also another way.. but can damage aluminium, seals, paint, fingers, reputation...
Thank you very much for this video. I tried the rubber glove technique and it worked!!!!
Doddy is the legend!
Brilliant! Exactly what I needed to know for exactly the problem I have.
Just tried method #2 with the torks wrench. Worked like a charm.
Rubber glove technique worked perfect- thanks!
Star profile worked well on my bike. Had to give it a love tap with a mallet, but I got it out. Thanks for the vid
Thanks, got a shredded bolt head on my chain ring. Will give these a go👍🏽
On a bench with purposely damaged bolts (not rusted or seized) is one thing. On the equipment and seized is totally different.
Perfectly timed video. I was able to extract a rounded out Allen key screw that was holding the derailleur hanger on my Whyte S150. Came out in 2 mins using the techniques here
Great tips. I used the glove and it did the trick! Thanks for sharing knowledge!!
Really great video!
I've got this problem about 2 years ago on a bottle cage- mount. I've worked with the rubber band method too, but I couldn't get enugh traction on the inside of the fitting, so I wrapped it arouond the bolt head and then I used a hack which I've got from a car mechanic: I took some pliers and grabbed the outside of the bolthead with the rubber in between and turned the bolt in- and out, just a little bit and a couple of times until it felt really loose and then I was able to get rid of it.
I'd be interested what you think about this hack!
Happy new year!
Rubber glove worked great - great video!
Brilliant idea using rubber never cross my mind for ages
I literally just stripped a bolt because I'm an idiot and this video came out. I was trying to remove the chainrings from my xt crankset to make it a 1x, they are torx T30 which is a key I don't have and me being the idiot I am tried removing them using a 4mm allen key... Surprisingly 7 of them came out undamaged but one got stripped.
Hammer in the next size up Allen key or Torx bit. If anything, switch to an imperial size allen key, it will be slightly bigger than the metric one.
@@Adam-xo7cv yeah, we went to the shop and he just hammered in the right size torx key and the bolt came out.
can't believe the timing was just trying to get a bolt out yesterday thanks heaps Dotty
Literally what I was looking for! 🖤
When beginning a job, I worry about what to do if .....
Thank you Doddy! And Happy New Year! :)
A1 Video. Thanks.
Spot on Doddy as always 👌
Any chance of a link to the pack of drill bits please
Ta Ste
Cheers Doddy!
Also - USE A HEATGUN - Aluminum heats up faster than steel (most bolts are steel). When the Al expands that little bit the bolts almost fall out.
Awesome video, so helpful and I’ll be using your advice on a rear derailleur tension screw tomorrow! Was wondering how I was going to get the little bugger out! Thanks!
Another tip that is sacrificial to Alan wrenches is to get a size or 2 bigger wrench than the actual bolt and use a hammer to hit it in and reshape the bolt.
Dam I'm trying that rubber glove idea cheers guys 🙌🙌
Awesome! Please make also a video when the head of the bolt is ripped off, and the rest of the bolt is hidden in the material! Thanks in advance!
Small drill down the center and a small easy out. Know your materials and apply a heat gun and WD-40 or similar to penetrate first. Worst case you drill it out and insert a heli-coil.
Rubber glove trick worked like a charm!
I jammed the next bigger torque bit with a hammer into the screwhead and unscrewed it with a wrench.
Always worked out for me!
Never failed
I have soldered in a Allen key before, same idea as the bonding but because you use solder you can actually reuse the Allen key because you can heat the solder and clean it off
Just managed to get the tapered head bolt out of my Shimano cranks by using an extractor drill which didn't work but it did remove the worst of the damage from the outer surface and then I tried a different short, straight, 5mm allen key with a ratchet wrench - this worked a treat. Poor quality Shimano scoket head setscrews in my opinion
Doddy - wear safety glasses when using extractors as they are notorious for breaking!
Cheers for this; this has given me enough inspiration for my stripped bolt even though they are on some fairing screws on my scooter!, I have tried this before sometimes with disc rotor bolts it just created a dip and were truly stuck in there. I do have a high powered drill and metal bits too. One idea was to fashion some kind of mini crow bar as mine are mushroom flat head and getting a purchase with a hammer 🔨 nail hoofed claw was not feasible, out of an old piece of sheet metal or tool and bending the end like a hook maybe cutting a slit with my junior hacksaw blade. Definitely using my new WD-40 before I do anything to 😊, also I hear heat using a heat hot air gun can help with seized bolts
Hi mate, great video!!!
Can you share the link with the set of drills and extractors? I really need one!
Thanks!!
Great video. What can I do to fix an over screwed bolt that won't tighten?
Thank you!
There’s some metal stuck in the bolt, it broke off when I was putting it on😭how do I get it out??? 🙏🙏🙏
My XT crank had a stripped head, used an M10 drill bit to remove the head which allowed me to take off the chainring. I then used pliers to turn the remainder of the bolt and out of the crank.
Oh thank you. The trick with the glove worked for getting a screw out.
Lapping compound will work, have used it on Philips head screws.
or more bike-related, carbon assembly paste
I have used an slightly smaller drill bit to drill out the majority of the bolt/screw. then pick out the rest of the remaining bolt/screw from the treat then clean it up with a correct size tap.
You could also use a flat screwdriver and with 2 small cut on the edge of the bolt, you will be able to take it out..tried and works!
Thanks to this. Latex glove technique worked. 😄
Going to need to try these. Was going to adjust the shifter on my bike and no clue what the shop I got my bike from did to that one little 3mm on the shifter. All the others have been fine but that one 3mm is not coming out. Going to have to give it a try with a better Allen key than my topeak multi tool
rubber band wrapped around the allen key head worked like a charm
1. You can save the sacrificial Allan key by heating it
2. Wera make hex bits and L-keys and other tools that have a specific head design that make it so you get better grip.
The latex glove worked! Thanks!
Hammering in a torx bit that is slightly bigger than the cap head bolt that has been rounded usually works for me. Option 2 that I have used in work (probably less suitable for bikes) is using a tig welder to tack a hex head bolt to the cap head and then using a spanner to undo
Thanks for this your video helped me get off an axel bolt:) I used number 4 :) thanks so much
No problem, Chris! We're glad this helped you out. Thanks for the support!
Heat. Before trying any of these methods heat the surrounding metal/carbon with a hair dryer then cool the stuck/damaged fixing (air or water). Always be careful not to over do it with the heat though. You can also use a centre punch to dent the head and the angle it in the direction to undo. Lastly if you have access use an impact driver rather than a drill as that will help it to come out.
When all options have been exhausted, I always cut a slot with a Dremel and use a flat/common screwdriver to remove the bolt.
Thanks, off to try your options, been at a fairnig bolt on a vfr for an hour.
Good luck! We hope they helped!
You can also simply use vise grips or water pump pliers to remove the bolt.Because the bolts on a bicycle have a big surface.There are many ways to remove rounded bolts.
Great video mate.
I could not see you opening a security bolt. Is that for safety reasons ? Im hoping mine is just soft steel and I can drill it out, but it is slipping at the moment. I know on cars, they are really tough and cannot be drilled ..
Fifth method was right there but wasn't presented - the fancy new Park Tool hex keys have the special head for rounded heads.
Thank you. Should i heat the broken stud before using the extractor? I mean is it helpful to make it easer to get it out with the extractor tool?