No I wish I was. I got a Logan 1927H off of Craigslist. I've completely disassembled it and replaced some of the gears. I just need to finish cleaning up my basement and get the parts painted and reassembled. Already got the 220v line dropped. Your videos have been very inspiring. Hope to get to the point that I can do some barrel fitting.
To resharpen/make lathe tools, I made an arbor for a set of 3-inch diamond lapping plates. 120, 240, and 400 grit. I then mount a tool on the post (usually with a mount I've hastily designed for this purpose) run the spindle at around 120 RPM, and grind away while keeping the lap oiled Takes a while but it's very repeatable and has great results
If I could suggest. When grinding the cutting edge on any cutting tool (parting tool) always have the cutting edge on top. That way any burr created will be at the bottom of the tool and in the clearance area. For me, I rarely ever hone a cutting edge. Mostly because it is difficult (when honing by hand anyway) to recreate the same clearance angle under the cutting edge. Another great Vid.
I understand. Having the curvature of the wheel is not really an issue. Remember the angle(clearance) IMMEDIATELY below the cutting edge is the most important issue. 5-7 degrees is what you should be aiming for. The clearance is there to allow for the penetration of the cutting edge into the material, while minimising friction. Too much angle and the cross section of the cutter behind the cutting edge becomes thinner, thus weakens the edge and faster heat buildup. Peter
You would be a great Tool & Die Maker. I would have drilled and bored your blanks in the lathe then indicate you mill centered to the bored hole, then put in the screw and dowel holes. Your doing great and doing work most people your age could care less about. I wish we could talk because there are easier ways to make those dies. I'm a retired Tool & Die Maker with a shop in my garage
I had a chance to cut a real spur gear on the mill in school and it came out great. Unfortunately I don't have access to a shop now. I got a copy of the Grizzly video with Gordy Gritters and I have a pretty comprehensive library of gunsmithing and machinist books. I've purchased reamers and other tooling from PTG. Someday it will happen.
Tough to say. Probably within the year. The biggest challenge is just painting it. I was thinking of getting a soda blaster, but the citris stripper might be less expensive and messy. I've taken everything apart but have a couple of things that need some more work. I have to get one of the bearing off the spindle and replace them but they are stuck fast.
A handful in hss but I mostly used it to modify harbor freight cemented carbide into real cutting tools. I keep it over at my buddy's place since he makes a living with his lathe and I with my mill but I could snap a few of the "prototype" I have with me
Man, i feel you on the grinder. My sentiments exactly, it really seperates the cream. I personally find it to be a mystical black art which i am woefully ill equipped to handle. They way i do it is WAY different than the way i just watched you do it. Your way looks way simpler and safer. Im just not sure of our grinder has rests on it at work :(
When I have to install alignment pins like that , I stick them in a battery operated drill then slightly grind a chamfer edge on them . Just food for thought
I know this is a very old video, but to get the best alignment, can't you just machine both pieces as one and cut them apart after drilling the guide pins and center bore?
Tom Lipton of OX Tools showed how to use a "V" block to set round stock in a mill vise so that you have three points of contact in the mill vice rather than just two.
uh..... no on the ti-guy. i need to build a new fixture for testing as i freaking hate mine, and i'm not sure what size i want to buy from him. i would prefer to get some cut to size instead of SqFt pieces then have to cut them myself. bandsaw is still down you know :(
As a shooter, I love this series, probably wont attempt this as im a wood guy, but would there be any advantage to using a taper on the 1/8" aligning pins?
If you dress your grinding wheel, and may use a little finer wheel you may have a nicer time grinding those fine tips. I replaced mine and redressed and it was awesome.
Sorry, 4-inch*. Ebay, though the most common size I saw at the time was 6-inch. It is quite reliable, especially when you finish with higher grits. I used an 80-grit plate to test the concept (now I only use that for making, rather than sharpening). Each step up made the tool last longer
Great videos for non professional. I have only one issue you don't give raw material dimensional sizes and quantity. Example you gave the steel type 1144 but note "Die material - 2 each 3 inch dia stock 6 inches long" the Punch is 2 each 2 inch dia stock 7 inch long.
I sorry if that came across like a critic your skills are good enough for me to take advice, suggestions and dimensions in my attempt to replicate what you have done. I purchased 2.5, 2.25 and 1.5. 1144 stress-proof bar stock as a guess-ti-mate to what you used. Would you be inclined to scatter more information my way? Thank you humbly Ed A.
why dont you drill your 3 holes to depth, then part off the first half? you can then finish ream or bore each piece dialing it in for zero off the pilot in the center...no? as long as you drill the alignment holes while the stick is all one piece, it doesnt much matter where they are located. maybe drill 3 in an assymetric pattern so you CANT put the halves together wrong?
Right now some 'snap caps'. Soon ill be starting on building some rifle and pistol receivers for myself and hopefully, eventually, for resale. watch?v=a8_ms9zIeeM
No I wish I was. I got a Logan 1927H off of Craigslist. I've completely disassembled it and replaced some of the gears. I just need to finish cleaning up my basement and get the parts painted and reassembled. Already got the 220v line dropped. Your videos have been very inspiring. Hope to get to the point that I can do some barrel fitting.
I went to school to be a machinist and your videos are great. Just bought my first lathe last year and I'm restoring/rebuilding it. Great content!
To resharpen/make lathe tools, I made an arbor for a set of 3-inch diamond lapping plates. 120, 240, and 400 grit. I then mount a tool on the post (usually with a mount I've hastily designed for this purpose) run the spindle at around 120 RPM, and grind away while keeping the lap oiled
Takes a while but it's very repeatable and has great results
a little tip for reamed press fit holes. ream the first 25% or so a slip fit and it will help with alignment.
If I could suggest. When grinding the cutting edge on any cutting tool (parting tool) always have the cutting edge on top. That way any burr created will be at the bottom of the tool and in the clearance area. For me, I rarely ever hone a cutting edge. Mostly because it is difficult (when honing by hand anyway) to recreate the same clearance angle under the cutting edge. Another great Vid.
I understand. Having the curvature of the wheel is not really an issue. Remember the angle(clearance) IMMEDIATELY below the cutting edge is the most important issue. 5-7 degrees is what you should be aiming for. The clearance is there to allow for the penetration of the cutting edge into the material, while minimising friction. Too much angle and the cross section of the cutter behind the cutting edge becomes thinner, thus weakens the edge and faster heat buildup. Peter
Whoa, easy with that hammer! Last thing you want is to mushroom those pins!
I really enjoy watching your videos. Keep up the excellent work.
brass hammer* (physics literally won't allow it to deform steel pins.)
You would be a great Tool & Die Maker. I would have drilled and bored your blanks in the lathe then indicate you mill centered to the bored hole, then put in the screw and dowel holes. Your doing great and doing work most people your age could care less about. I wish we could talk because there are easier ways to make those dies. I'm a retired Tool & Die Maker with a shop in my garage
I had a chance to cut a real spur gear on the mill in school and it came out great. Unfortunately I don't have access to a shop now. I got a copy of the Grizzly video with Gordy Gritters and I have a pretty comprehensive library of gunsmithing and machinist books. I've purchased reamers and other tooling from PTG. Someday it will happen.
Tough to say. Probably within the year. The biggest challenge is just painting it. I was thinking of getting a soda blaster, but the citris stripper might be less expensive and messy. I've taken everything apart but have a couple of things that need some more work. I have to get one of the bearing off the spindle and replace them but they are stuck fast.
A handful in hss but I mostly used it to modify harbor freight cemented carbide into real cutting tools. I keep it over at my buddy's place since he makes a living with his lathe and I with my mill but I could snap a few of the "prototype" I have with me
I know the feeling! Now if I could get a spare minute to go into my shop I could get back to making videos :)
Man, i feel you on the grinder. My sentiments exactly, it really seperates the cream. I personally find it to be a mystical black art which i am woefully ill equipped to handle. They way i do it is WAY different than the way i just watched you do it. Your way looks way simpler and safer. Im just not sure of our grinder has rests on it at work :(
Hopefully once I figured out all the ins and outs I can post some videos of the firearms stuff I'll be working on :)
Nice video once again! Thank you!
When I have to install alignment pins like that , I stick them in a battery operated drill then slightly grind a chamfer edge on them . Just food for thought
Next up drawing cartridge cases? How many tonnes of pressure do you think that will require? because they start from a fair bit thicker blanks.
I wonder if you could build and sell some dies that did like 10 shells at a time. Brass is getting up there in price lately.
I know this is a very old video, but to get the best alignment, can't you just machine both pieces as one and cut them apart after drilling the guide pins and center bore?
Bore the holes through both pieces at the same time the use a reamer to enlarge one of the pieces
Tom Lipton of OX Tools showed how to use a "V" block to set round stock in a mill vise so that you have three points of contact in the mill vice rather than just two.
Thank you!
very nice work
Seriously! Shouldn't you be busy breaking drill bits? :)
Great series John! I love to see you cranking these videos out.
Quick question. When you're machining your round stock shouldn't it be in V-blocks?
uh.....
no on the ti-guy. i need to build a new fixture for testing as i freaking hate mine, and i'm not sure what size i want to buy from him. i would prefer to get some cut to size instead of SqFt pieces then have to cut them myself. bandsaw is still down you know :(
As a shooter, I love this series, probably wont attempt this as im a wood guy, but would there be any advantage to using a taper on the 1/8" aligning pins?
If you dress your grinding wheel, and may use a little finer wheel you may have a nicer time grinding those fine tips. I replaced mine and redressed and it was awesome.
I love your vids they are great!!!!!!
Sorry, 4-inch*. Ebay, though the most common size I saw at the time was 6-inch. It is quite reliable, especially when you finish with higher grits. I used an 80-grit plate to test the concept (now I only use that for making, rather than sharpening). Each step up made the tool last longer
Use hollow dowel pins then you can put your cap screw in the same holes
Can you teach how to make any bullet
Great videos for non professional. I have only one issue you don't give raw material dimensional sizes and quantity. Example you gave the steel type 1144 but note "Die material - 2 each 3 inch dia stock 6 inches long" the Punch is 2 each 2 inch dia stock 7 inch long.
I sorry if that came across like a critic your skills are good enough for me to take advice, suggestions and dimensions in my attempt to replicate what you have done. I purchased 2.5, 2.25 and 1.5. 1144 stress-proof bar stock as a guess-ti-mate to what you used. Would you be inclined to scatter more information my way? Thank you humbly Ed A.
What separates the men from the boys is experience not the grinder
you shoot .45? that seems a bit hardcore for you :)
i'm a 1911 man myself.
why dont you drill your 3 holes to depth, then part off the first half? you can then finish ream or bore each piece dialing it in for zero off the pilot in the center...no? as long as you drill the alignment holes while the stick is all one piece, it doesnt much matter where they are located. maybe drill 3 in an assymetric pattern so you CANT put the halves together wrong?
I just noticed this comment. You shoot the 2011? You're more hardcore than I am :(
hello my name is sawa i need to get ahold of you is there any form of contact information i can use to talk to you in private other then live mail ?
Right now some 'snap caps'. Soon ill be starting on building some rifle and pistol receivers for myself and hopefully, eventually, for resale. watch?v=a8_ms9zIeeM
Actually u make it impossible
none of these videos are making copper jackets. they are only about making the machinery that in turn will make copper jackets. Mislabeled videos!!!!
Learn how to read the entire title !!!!
I did dumbass, and it says "making copper bullet jackets. should say "how to Machine Tools to Make fmj
Read past the colon (aka the entire title) "Machining Punching & Drawing Dies!"
+naturalorange I did now shut up and go make me some orange juice lol