Ferrous metals anneal when air cooled slowly, and harden when quenched. Non-ferrous, (Brass, bronze, Aluminum) anneal with quenching and harden when air cooling. Common reason why aluminum welds gets brittle with time. High heat then air cool causes brittleness (hardening.) Try a thin strip of sheet 6061 that's been sitting around and bend it sharp. You'll see stress cracks. Anneal with sharpie and torch and quench. Bend again, like butter and no stress cracks. Fun test to do!
John NYCCNC I just found your site yesterday, so I have not seen all of your work. I think that there might be some more polishing in another of your videos. Great job!
John NYCCNC Tom Lipton did a shout out to you for your review of his book. He highly recommended your site and I must confess that I am learning a lot from you!
I like Guess-o-meter, when I worked in Calibration we called them Very-near caliper's (rather than vernier). I'm learning a lot from these videos, one day I might get into machining if any local jobs with training open up.
Common in an industrial process when doing multiple step punch and form dies you put some kind of thin oil on there to make stuff slip. I have seen the use of everything from thin gearbox fluid to breakfluid types to the thicker 50W.. my guess is that a thinner oil would be the appropriate approach though.. Its probably not required for shearing but for the forming part.
Give it a try, I know there are guys on the HMEM sight that use this method to polish their crankshaft journals to a mirror like finish, use the rougher side for cutting and the smooth side to polish, apperantly jewlers use this method too.
Copper work hardens and it will also harden with time just sitting. Same with aluminum. I anneal by marking with a sharpie and heating with propane until sharpie disappears, then quench in cold water. It makes it really flexible and soft. Might also be a good idea to re-anneal after punching and cupping before drawing. Less chance of cracking, splitting or extra force needed. Just a thought! Can't wait for the next series!
Initial punch was way too "snappy." Lots of extra force required to punch work hardened copper and I noticed your dies are not hardened. That means a lot of extra wear on your dies. Anneal the copper, lubricate your dies with light oil or kerosene and they will punch through with less pressure and less wear. Love the series, keep it up!
I know this is a old video but I always polish 80 grit, 120 grit, 240 grit, 320 grit, 400 grit, 800 grit, 1000 grit, 1500 grit, 2000 grit, 2500 grit, 3000 grit, and then polishing compound on a micro fiber towel. It gets you a finish that is a perfect mirror. I always use Norton or 3m abrasives
When, pressing stuff in multiple steps in an industrial process isnt a little bit of oil on the sheet metal the "way to go" havent seen you put any lubricant on any of the dies yet though.. whats your thought behind that - the metal is slippery enough?
Great video, when you are polishing a piece with emery cloth do you ever use the cloth side? After you cut it down to size flip the strip over and put some pressure on it. It will polish to a fine mirror like finish. The cloth side seems to have a very fine abrasive quality. I am not a machinist but a mechanic and have done this for close to Forty years. Maybe you use this trick to, likely could eliminate the compound and rag. I don't like rags around revolving things. Cheers keep up the good work.
Do you have any recommended videos for further information on the "guess-o-meter" concept? Like, something about the "realities" of measurement tools? I'm interested in learning more.
U do realize when you are done with this tool there is many shooters that will go "I must have that naaauw" and you get like 3000 emails.. for me living in a country where owning tools to do that you would need a special permit for "strategic products".. not kidding.. its just fun to watch. =)
Another great video I have a question (maybe I missed the obvious answer) but when you drilled and reamed on the mill, how was the inner part secured into the outer part? It seems like the inner part could have been spinning and drifting during those operations.
Oh I noticed, I just didn't want to side track anyone by commenting. Well aware of them but have not used one in a while since they have fallen out of favor. I have my HP41C and all of the accessories packed up for long-term storage.
What camera are you using? Most of the Canons can not record longer than 8 minutes ... maybe thats why your cam shuts up on you sometimes! Great video!
NYC CNC Every turn of the cross slide is .001" but in reality it will only move half of that. A 0.100" depth of cut, the cross slide will move .050" to remove mat'l from both sides. every time you came up with a depth of cut, you would then divide. Then I saw the yellow dial indicator mounted on top of the cross slide. I assume the cross slide hand wheel doesn't have tic marks. I currently run a 30 man machine/welding shop and have been running manual/CNC lathes and mills for 20 yrs and It just struck me as odd.
I hate to steer him away from your video but Mr. Pete has many videos on measuring. I am not sure if you follow him but I have watched his videos just about as long as yours.
Its basicly hopeless, you need to be company and you need a ton of certifications and licenses before you can even apply for the permits. And then the permits alone isnt enough for every batch you produce it needs to be registered, counted and so on. So no parts leave your storage without you knowing about it..
Oh its the intended use thats regulated. Sure you can press a cup if you dont draw it to a bullet jacket. but if you iiintend to draw a bullet jacket then the cup is regulated.. Welcome to Sweden, the land of contradictions and stupid regulations..
Ferrous metals anneal when air cooled slowly, and harden when quenched. Non-ferrous, (Brass, bronze, Aluminum) anneal with quenching and harden when air cooling. Common reason why aluminum welds gets brittle with time. High heat then air cool causes brittleness (hardening.) Try a thin strip of sheet 6061 that's been sitting around and bend it sharp. You'll see stress cracks. Anneal with sharpie and torch and quench. Bend again, like butter and no stress cracks. Fun test to do!
I am glad that you showed the surface finishing steps. People now in days look at a shiny part and don't realize what went into making it.
John NYCCNC I just found your site yesterday, so I have not seen all of your work. I think that there might be some more polishing in another of your videos. Great job!
John NYCCNC Tom Lipton did a shout out to you for your review of his book. He highly recommended your site and I must confess that I am learning a lot from you!
I'll have to get a copy of "Sink or Swim". Tom says that the second book is cheaper, but I'd rather have the first book.
I like Guess-o-meter, when I worked in Calibration we called them Very-near caliper's (rather than vernier).
I'm learning a lot from these videos, one day I might get into machining if any local jobs with training open up.
Good to see that you used a couple of V blocks to hold the part in the vice.
Common in an industrial process when doing multiple step punch and form dies you put some kind of thin oil on there to make stuff slip. I have seen the use of everything from thin gearbox fluid to breakfluid types to the thicker 50W.. my guess is that a thinner oil would be the appropriate approach though.. Its probably not required for shearing but for the forming part.
Give it a try, I know there are guys on the HMEM sight that use this method to polish their crankshaft journals to a mirror like finish, use the rougher side for cutting and the smooth side to polish, apperantly jewlers use this method too.
Copper work hardens and it will also harden with time just sitting. Same with aluminum. I anneal by marking with a sharpie and heating with propane until sharpie disappears, then quench in cold water. It makes it really flexible and soft. Might also be a good idea to re-anneal after punching and cupping before drawing. Less chance of cracking, splitting or extra force needed. Just a thought! Can't wait for the next series!
Use a more ridged mount for the indicator. No fine adjust on the arm.
In my studies from the old rule book of finishes a honeing stone is proven to be the best ,
Initial punch was way too "snappy." Lots of extra force required to punch work hardened copper and I noticed your dies are not hardened. That means a lot of extra wear on your dies. Anneal the copper, lubricate your dies with light oil or kerosene and they will punch through with less pressure and less wear. Love the series, keep it up!
you can use leather to get mirror shine, try a leather shoe lace, barbers used to use a leather strap to sharpen straight razer
I know this is a old video but I always polish 80 grit, 120 grit, 240 grit, 320 grit, 400 grit, 800 grit, 1000 grit, 1500 grit, 2000 grit, 2500 grit, 3000 grit, and then polishing compound on a micro fiber towel. It gets you a finish that is a perfect mirror. I always use Norton or 3m abrasives
When, pressing stuff in multiple steps in an industrial process isnt a little bit of oil on the sheet metal the "way to go" havent seen you put any lubricant on any of the dies yet though.. whats your thought behind that - the metal is slippery enough?
Great video, when you are polishing a piece with emery cloth do you ever use the cloth side? After you cut it down to size flip the strip over and put some pressure on it. It will polish to a fine mirror like finish. The cloth side seems to have a very fine abrasive quality. I am not a machinist but a mechanic and have done this for close to Forty years. Maybe you use this trick to, likely could eliminate the compound and rag. I don't like rags around revolving things. Cheers keep up the good work.
Do you have any recommended videos for further information on the "guess-o-meter" concept? Like, something about the "realities" of measurement tools? I'm interested in learning more.
U do realize when you are done with this tool there is many shooters that will go "I must have that naaauw" and you get like 3000 emails.. for me living in a country where owning tools to do that you would need a special permit for "strategic products".. not kidding.. its just fun to watch. =)
Another great video
I have a question (maybe I missed the obvious answer) but when you drilled and reamed on the mill, how was the inner part secured into the outer part? It seems like the inner part could have been spinning and drifting during those operations.
Oh I noticed, I just didn't want to side track anyone by commenting. Well aware of them but have not used one in a while since they have fallen out of favor. I have my HP41C and all of the accessories packed up for long-term storage.
What camera are you using? Most of the Canons can not record longer than 8 minutes ... maybe thats why your cam shuts up on you sometimes!
Great video!
I’m at 3:25 I’ll finish watching in a bit
it would cut easier if you have a slight cupping in the end of your punch. just FYI
@JohnNYCCNC I assumed people already took notice. Guess not.
I hate making honest mistakes like that. I'm very prone to making them, just like you did NYC CNC (the extra hole on the side of the blanking die)
This whole time I was wondering why you kept dividing your cuts. Does the cross slide not have a dial?
NYC CNC Every turn of the cross slide is .001" but in reality it will only move half of that. A 0.100" depth of cut, the cross slide will move .050" to remove mat'l from both sides. every time you came up with a depth of cut, you would then divide. Then I saw the yellow dial indicator mounted on top of the cross slide. I assume the cross slide hand wheel doesn't have tic marks. I currently run a 30 man machine/welding shop and have been running manual/CNC lathes and mills for 20 yrs and It just struck me as odd.
Yep! But leather by itself is not as effective as a good rouge or polishing compound embedded in the leather. :)
I hate to steer him away from your video but Mr. Pete has many videos on measuring. I am not sure if you follow him but I have watched his videos just about as long as yours.
another voice in my head or mixed audio? :D
Its basicly hopeless, you need to be company and you need a ton of certifications and licenses before you can even apply for the permits. And then the permits alone isnt enough for every batch you produce it needs to be registered, counted and so on. So no parts leave your storage without you knowing about it..
Ok this is where we left off
yep :D
Lube up things. Basics of life ha :D
Keep it up
my bad facebook played that video too :D
Use better abrasive paper...Huge difference!!!~
Wise people uses HP calculators!!!!!
Oh its the intended use thats regulated. Sure you can press a cup if you dont draw it to a bullet jacket. but if you iiintend to draw a bullet jacket then the cup is regulated.. Welcome to Sweden, the land of contradictions and stupid regulations..
Waa wondering if you are using a smithy 3in1?9th
Brass not copper