Thank you sir for this mighty fine tutorial. The 8 HP B&S engine on my Troy-Bilt chipper was running erratically and would stop intermittently. I disassembled and cleaned the carb using all the same parts except for needing a new gasket. I set the screws like you suggested and and the engine started with one pull. I’m thrilled with the results. It’s kind people like you who give me the confidence to tackle a project like this.
I rarely subscribe to channels. I'm subscribing to this one right now. This is clear concise no nonsense, no bullshit instructions on what's going on with these carbs. I just did a deal with my awesome neighbors and got a lightly used 8 HP chipper from 1995. Her dad brought it new from Sam's club in 95 for his yard and it is in excellent condition. My neighbor's on The other side lived there for a year or two and bought a Cobalt electric lawn mower, weed eater, and leaf blower. Right before he left he came over and asked me if I wanted them for free, along with a nice little 10-in miter saw. I said sure even though I didn't really need them. I ended up trading those things for this tree chipper and it needed a little TLC to get it working smoothly again. I put some seafoam in the gas tank with some fresh gas and a new spark plug. It did not want to run unless I had the choke on. I ended up backing out that high side adjustment screw and that did the trick. Now I'm going to change the oil. I also put an extra large new fuel filter on it. I may end up needing to change out the fuel lines they are a little dried out. This thing is really excellent it has no plastic other than the gas tank, and it has a normal manual throttle and choke. This is a very reliable configuration. This engine would be pretty awesome mounted on a go-kart. I have no intentions of doing that, but years ago I would have loved to do it.
Have been tormenting myself with a 40 year old generator powered by a 8hp Briggs. After watching this vid, I had that old hoss purring like a lion! THANK YOU!!
I am not an engine guy but after installing a new carburetor (had to shave off 1/16" off the bottom where the air filter bracket attaches) it started in one pull but was pretty rough. Messed with the two mixture screws and, damn man, it runs like it was meant to. Thanks for the straight forward and clear video.
Thank you for the video! I have the same 8hp Briggs and Stratton engine/ updraft carburetor. It would only run when fully choked and at full throttle. Thanks to your video, I was able to tune the carburetor and now it runs great. Thanks again!
Thank you!!! Ive searched for hours on the govenor linkage adjustment causing engine over revving and couldn't find anything until your video! Great explanation!
I've got the exact same engine on my Speeco log splitter. I always had problems with engine surging and just couldn't get it right. I decided to remove the emulsion tube and the slot in it stripped out on me despite being careful and shooting it with PB Blaster. The bowl on this carb can't be removed without removing the emulsion tube first. I finally decided to order a new (clone), carb. I got the engine running, but not good and the surging is probably worse than ever now. I'm gonna follow your lead and see what happens. I agree with you that, that throttle plate sucks! Great video, just the facts and no BS! Thanks.
Thank you for all this information. I am having a problem with a 1974 White Yard Boss GT 1050. I have an old White Yard Boss GT1050, that is giving me fits. This is a 1974 model with a 10HP B&S motor. Updraft carburetor. It started running real crappy, and died. I replaced the plug, and checked it for spark. Spark is good. Replaced the fuel filter. No luck! I ordered a carb kit, and installed. Carb was leaking out the hole in the bottom. I researched this and followed the recommendations on the Needle jet. No luck! I have fought this for three weeks now. I ordered a new carb. It has already had the repair on the needle done to it. Same story, leaks out the hole. Checked needle, and found the repair o-ring, and a good seat pattern in it. The engine will run if I keep priming it. I took a compression check on it. 100LBS compression cold. Checked it three times. I know this is an old bugger, but I am hoping someone may have some experience with these. They are great garden tractors. I installed an electronic conversion for the ignition. I will say the spark is much better. For some reason it will not pull the fuel from the carb up, and into the combustion chamber. Any ideas, because i am out of them. Give me a downdraft carb with a fuel pump, and it would be easier.
I'm not quite sure right off hand what the problem is without looking at it, sometimes its hard to diagnose something without working on it, hope you understand. Thats good compression, so I assume its not a valve issue causing it. Sometimes the float will stick in these and will cause the overflow problem, try tapping on the side of the carburetor and see if that stops that problem. Does it have good fuel flow to the carb? Thanks for Watching!!!
I have exactly the same problem. I have made the same repairs as you but no luck. I'm about to pull the flywheel to see if the key has been sheared. I have fuel and a good spark. Removed elbow and muffler. Valves are working fine. It ran perfect until I rebuilt the carb. I even put old carb parts back in .Still no luck. A complete mystery.
Thank you for the concise and simple explanation without the circus antics I see on some channels. I linked this video rather than writing a wall of text explaining this process. Thanks again.
I have a old tiller and a 1974 (thanks for the B&S dating video) craftsman snow shark and didn't know where to start on them. Can't wait till the morning to get the snow shark going. Have a great day and thank you.
Thank you for this video. I was working on a 1983 Troy Built Horse III tiller w 8HP Briggs and could not find anything on how to properly adjust the new carburetor I bought. Huge Thanks.
Very good video. One thing I found, on my '94 Winco TF6000E generator with the 11 HP Briggs, which I got used a few years ago, was that the float pin holes in the upper body where completely worn oversized and rounded out. Come to find out that what causes this is the use of the generator on natural gas or propane without removing the float, needle and pin first. This apparently causes the float to flutter around violently while in use, causing the damage. It still works ok, and I'm planning on setting it up for natural gas, but a new upper carb body or new carb is in the future, if I continue to use it with Gasoline.
Thanks for this vid, had a heck of a time finding this information, so was really glad to come across your vid. Old school and to the point, perfect! Again, thanks!
Can't beat the old stuff. I've got a sideways job on a Roof mower, 8 horse 'L' head I/C that mostly gets choked at the beginning of the season or if it sits for a month. Just turn it on and it'll fire the 1st or 2nd pull. I wish briggs would make a solid choke plate for the 'L' head plastid starting clutch dog 5 horse instead of the one with the hole in it. Lets too much air and not enough gas for cold starts. I can stick my thumb into the breather housing over the choke and it'll crank 1st pull but not until you try pulling it and your shoulder is gone. But it keeps me honest and Thanks! Pick me one!
Yep! I've noticed that seems like these 8hp rarely ever need choked except when cold or like you said been sitting. That is true, i agree with that. Thanks for Watching!!!
Thanks so much for this great video. I have a 1976 Briggs 8HP Toro snowblower (8-32 model specifically) and the exhaust glows red after a couple of minutes. I removed and cleaned the entire carb last year but I failed to properly adjust it because honestly I didn't know how. I suspect a lean condition so I will try this out first otherwise there may be a bigger issue I need to figure out. Anyhow, very helpful video. Thanks for sharing!
Your welcome! It could be a lean mixture causing that or also, it could be the exhaust valve not sealing good, if thats the case it will need to be reseated (lapped) and then the clearance (lash) set. hope this helps, thanks for watching!!!
Hey On the mortar mixer I’m working on it has same engine and up flow carburetor. Then it has a adjustment screw with spring that adjustment for governor speed. Carburetor rebuild came out nice just trying to adjust high and low screws
Thanks very much for this great video. I have this engine on an old wood chipper and the Throttle Bracket Assy has a mount that alows a screw through the bottom under the bowl, teh one that fits into the bottom of the carb. None of the new cheap carbs they sell out there allow their carbs to fit in this bracket, they have this extra half inch height to the post. You can even see it in the replacement carb you show in your video right here, you can see under the bowl the post sticks out an extra half inch than the carb on your motor you have already mounted! Why are they doing this...very frustrating. I did find a carb from one place that has the proper bottom bolt height, and I struggled to get it into my manifold, things just didn't line up right. I am hoping it's good enough, will be testing it out tomorrow...thanks again!
Very helpful!! Many thanks. Got mine running fine and smooth, starting on the first pull. But now, just three days later, it requires a shot of Gumout to start. And then it just dies after running for about three minutes. Any ideas??
I rescued a Sears 917.292580 rototiller with 8 hp horizontal shaft engine today, went to look the parts up, and found that most of the parts to make it run are no longer available. What capacity gas tank is mounted on the engine you have, and if possible, what is the part number for it. The fuel tank was damaged when they put it on the curb, it's been sitting disused in the wild for some time, but engine is not seized. I'll be tinkering with it this Winter to keep myself busy (sane). I also recently picked up a John Deere X300 lawn tractor with 38" mower deck for a decent price, it had a run in with a Ford Ranger pickup. Another tinker toy. 1985 J-D model 111, 1988 J-D 185, 1997 J-D STX38 Black deck, 2003 J-D L110, 2010 J-D X300. Talk about Deere Rescues.
Thank you for the great explanation on the carburetor but plz can you make a video explaining how the kill switch and other components on the bracket works , I’ve been looking everywhere to rebuild this bracket with new sprints but I don’t know where they go . I just saw where one of those sprint goes with that little explanation. Thank so much !
Did a full rebuild, got it running but will not run unless 90% choked and even then is temperamental. I've tried to adjust the 3 different screws you mention but first, I want to fix the choke problem. It seems there is a way to adjust the spring backed screw on the choke lever and in fact, I can turn this screw that holds the choke lever on and I can adjust how much choke by again, turning the choke lever retention screw BUT NOT the choke lever. Maybe my choke butterfly plate is separated from the choke lever? Also, idles very high - wondering if the new cable and cable housing is out of position on the screw and bracket that holds the cable to the throttle body - shown at 6:54: wondering if there is a distance that the cable housing must not be too far forward in the bracket that will screw something up. Seems I can shut it off by pushing the lever forward no problem but huge spike from 0 RPM to low. Seems to be zero low idle. Maybe I disconnect the cable and use my finger to slide that assembly which you mention is not replaceable. Tempted to buy a $20 carb on Amazon but want to get my free 8hp blower running on OE parts - seems close. Thanks!
Got three engines with the updraft flojet ones on a 6 horse in a 66 bolens ones on a 1982 8 horse from a tiller and the last is on a 10 horse in a Allis big ten honestly I quite like this carb design
I just purchased an old John Deere 68 that sat for a cpuple years. When I went to see it, it would not start until I put good gas in it. Only issue I have is it sputters quite a bit, it stays running but sounds like the choke is on the whole time. When I take the air filter out it comes to life and runs fine, when I put the cap back on with filter it spotters and loses power. I thought about replacing the carb, but it seems to run really well when it gets good air. Air filter looks ok, but I'll replace that tomorrow. I will also check adjustments as well, anything else that I might need to assess? Thanks.
Pretty late to the party here just got a snowblower with an old 8hp on it. Can carb adjustment being too rich or lean cause kickback? I originally bought it a new carb it worked for a few months then started kicking rebuilt the old carb the original and put it on. It didn’t kick at me, today I went out and tried to start it and it kicked back at me again
Question - I have followed your directions (thank you!), but my carburator (new) will not go into low idle without loping....I can get it adjusted to run nicely at 3600 rpm, but if I adjust it to low idle at 1800, it will lope and surge at 3600. The only way to fix it is to adjust the idle screw up and then I lose the low idle. Suggestions?
I have a 1983 8hp Briggs Stratton engine, I have totally rebuilt the updraft carb after ultra sonic cleaning as well as the fuel tank, it fires and runs well,, but seeps fuel more then I would like. Is this something I need to live with,, or is it time for a new carb.?
Is the pilot jet and the main jet the same thing? My RPM goes up and down continuously. A mechanic said the pilot jet is stopped up. Tomorrow I'll try cleaning the main jet and see it that fixes the problem. I have to run the engine at half choke to get it to run. I think that indicates the main jet is stopped up. Am I guessing right?
@@fnaguitarplayer9 My son and I are working on our mid-seventies Sears Roto-Spader with the original 8HP Briggs. The thing is a brute and just needs some TLC. This helped us get it up and running again after cleaning.
Greta videos. I recently acquired an old snowblower. Engine is a 8 HP B & S 170402 model (1967). It did work when I took it home. But I cleaned er up a bit and now it doesn't start. I just bought the carb kit and replaced the gaskets and the bottom jet/(the one on the bottom that comes up at an angle) . I sprayed all jets and holes with carb cleaner. I do have spark because it kicks in with starting fluid but will not run after that. I cleaned out the rusty fuel tank and I do have fresh fuel flowing from the tank. What should I do to get it going? Thanks
I have an old Gilson snowblower with this carb that sometimes runs great, other times runs too rich or too lean and I have to adjust it. Seems like I'm always having to adjust it and sometimes I just can't seem to get it right but when it runs good it runs great. Next time I fire it up it isn't right either cold or warm until I adjust it again. It does always start and run, it just seems to be rich or lean randomly under load each day I use it. I replaced the old fuel hoses and inline fuel filter thinking they were decomposing but no change. I've since given up trying to figure it out as it always gets the job done. Any ideas?
I have a 1971 Gilson made Wards 14 horse garden tractor i've been working on and noticed as I ran it it did the same even after a rebuild until I put a different rebuilt carb on it, the culprit was the throttle valve shaft on the old one had enough play to allow air to get past it causing it to go lean in certain throttle positions and run horribly. If you can wiggle the shaft around in it's hole as it's running without rotating it and the idle changes or it starts running rough, thats why. It should have very little play but if it's as old as mine was the throttle shaft hole is probably worn enough to allow air to pas around the shaft.
@@justarel GOOD fix. I've got a 301 cast iron Kohler that's that way and I got another carb like the fixer got. It's a Gravely and a rotary plow and I don't want it fixed unless I need it or someone else does. That thing will kill a grizzly bear on steroids.
@@justarel Interesting, would have never thought of that. I'll check that when I get it out of storage this fall on the chance that's the cause. Thanks!
I just took mine apart and cleaned it and put it back together. Now when I go to run it the whole intake starts filling up with gas and starts dripping all over. And ideas? New to carbs.
I have one on a ez rake...it runs at 2700 and that's enough for me...I couldn't imagine running one of these at 3600...I also have a lot bigger exhaust and I think it's flowing out alot better then stock
Problem Iam having is got new down draft carburator but won't run unless I put gas in carburetor gas is getting to carburetor started pulling my hair out.any ideas.
Just finished mine and it starts easily and runs really well now but it just dies suddenly at random, then after a few minutes starts and runs my wood splitter perfectly for another few minutes, then dies again like a float issue is all I can think of ? any suggestion ? thanks for posting its the identical engine and a great tutorial
If its just shutting off like you turned the switch off it could be the coil going bad on it, get a inline spark tester and see if its loosing spark when it does it. It could be a carb issue, if its running out of fuel could be not enough fuel flow do to a collapsed fuel line or clogged filter. Thanks for Watching!!!
i have this exact same engine. ive cleaned the carb, adjusted it like you said and the manual said. i cannot get this thing started. ive tried everything. i thought it might be getting flooded but the spark plug is dry. tons of gas comes out the intake, as im trying to get it running with out the air cleaner.
These are very picky carburetors, great when they are working though. Common problems are float/needle valve sticking and where the emulsion tube goes in, you have to tighten it real tight and loosen it then tighten it again to get a good seal on it. Then set both mixture screws to about 1 and 1/2 turns out and it should try to run. Thanks for Watching!!!
I've got an 8hp B&S that looks exactly like this one. Mine might be a few years older. It's on a 48" concrete troweling machine. I just replaced the carb with a new one l found on eBay. I set all the screws like you said and got it fired up and running. However My problem is as I fine tune it either at a low idle or running fast l can not get it to manually get it to throttle up or down. The governor spring stays fully extended keeping the the top flap wide open. I am suspicious of the governor spring and the throttle cable. Do you have any suggestions or another viedo to watch on how to set the throttle cable adjustment or the governor spring. Also the motor after adjusting the idle speed still pulses as it's running. Any ideas on this? I saw the small part of this viedo where you refered to it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for all you do.
You may need to adjust the governor, if say the new carburetor has a slightly different throttle plate where the linkages connects it could be throwing it off, i do have a video on the cable adjustment too. watch these 2 here and see if that helps. Its a different engine, but all of it will be basically same just will be layed out different. ua-cam.com/video/1WWpeyDbHjA/v-deo.html and ua-cam.com/video/9rO8AvDrdeM/v-deo.html Thanks for Watching!!!
Just wanted to say thank you again and update you by on my progress. The governor checked out ok. The culprit turned out to be the throttle cable bracket on the engine it had slipped / moved causing the governor spring to be to tight. Once I got it back in place the tension on the spring corrected, then I was able to get the carb adjustment correct. Running well now. Your videos helped indirectly by leading me to check things that uncovered the problem. Keep up the good works. Blessings to you and your family for sharing.
I have the same engine & put on a new carb. It runs for about a minute and then dies. I have tried adjusting the 2 screws but still dies after a minute or so. Any other suggestions. Great video btw and thanks for any input
My fuel on/off valve on the bottom of the tank was clogged. I had to pull the fuel tank. Clean both the tank and the on/off valve. I ended up replacing the fuel line and fuel filter as well. Everything feeding the fuel to the carburetor was in bad shape. Hope this helps.
@@killdeer I did have debris on the petcock valve and I think it got through & into the new carb. So I cleaned the gas tank, petcock, fuel line & new fuel filter & also took the new carb off to thoroughly clean that. Put everything back together with new gas. Now I can’t get it started. Even tried starting fluid. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for checking back
I have acolder 8hp troy I replaced the carb on and fuel lines and it won't start. I put some gas and it fired but adjusted l8ke you said and still won't start. I believe the carbs a China copy
If its excessive it could be a bad gasket, but its actually a vent on one side, and if the gas level is to high (possibly from float not set right or just from sloshing around) it will seep some. I have no idea why they made it like that and not use a standard vent. Thanks for Watching!!!
Thank you sir for this mighty fine tutorial. The 8 HP B&S engine on my Troy-Bilt chipper was running erratically and would stop intermittently. I disassembled and cleaned the carb using all the same parts except for needing a new gasket. I set the screws like you suggested and and the engine started with one pull. I’m thrilled with the results. It’s kind people like you who give me the confidence to tackle a project like this.
I rarely subscribe to channels. I'm subscribing to this one right now. This is clear concise no nonsense, no bullshit instructions on what's going on with these carbs.
I just did a deal with my awesome neighbors and got a lightly used 8 HP chipper from 1995. Her dad brought it new from Sam's club in 95 for his yard and it is in excellent condition.
My neighbor's on The other side lived there for a year or two and bought a Cobalt electric lawn mower, weed eater, and leaf blower. Right before he left he came over and asked me if I wanted them for free, along with a nice little 10-in miter saw. I said sure even though I didn't really need them.
I ended up trading those things for this tree chipper and it needed a little TLC to get it working smoothly again. I put some seafoam in the gas tank with some fresh gas and a new spark plug.
It did not want to run unless I had the choke on. I ended up backing out that high side adjustment screw and that did the trick. Now I'm going to change the oil. I also put an extra large new fuel filter on it. I may end up needing to change out the fuel lines they are a little dried out.
This thing is really excellent it has no plastic other than the gas tank, and it has a normal manual throttle and choke. This is a very reliable configuration. This engine would be pretty awesome mounted on a go-kart. I have no intentions of doing that, but years ago I would have loved to do it.
Fantastic, concise, articulate video! No wasted time, blah, blah etc.... Great help! Hate these carbs leak like they do.
Have been tormenting myself with a 40 year old generator powered by a 8hp Briggs. After watching this vid, I had that old hoss purring like a lion! THANK YOU!!
I'm reviving a circa 1985 8 hp generator with that B&S carb. I've never done this before, so this was very helpful! Thanks!
I am not an engine guy but after installing a new carburetor (had to shave off 1/16" off the bottom where the air filter bracket attaches) it started in one pull but was pretty rough. Messed with the two mixture screws and, damn man, it runs like it was meant to. Thanks for the straight forward and clear video.
Thank you for the video! I have the same 8hp Briggs and Stratton engine/ updraft carburetor. It would only run when fully choked and at full throttle. Thanks to your video, I was able to tune the carburetor and now it runs great. Thanks again!
Your welcome, glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!!!
Excellent info Sir.Lots of folks don’t like the ole draft carbs but I love em once you get them dialed in they work great
They are picky, but like you set once tuned in they can't be beat. Thanks for Watching!!!
Thank you!!! Ive searched for hours on the govenor linkage adjustment causing engine over revving and couldn't find anything until your video! Great explanation!
Your welcome! Thanks for Watching!!!
I've got the exact same engine on my Speeco log splitter. I always had problems with engine surging and just couldn't get it right. I decided to remove the emulsion tube and the slot in it stripped out on me despite being careful and shooting it with PB Blaster. The bowl on this carb can't be removed without removing the emulsion tube first. I finally decided to order a new (clone), carb. I got the engine running, but not good and the surging is probably worse than ever now. I'm gonna follow your lead and see what happens.
I agree with you that, that throttle plate sucks!
Great video, just the facts and no BS! Thanks.
Great video helped me get generator running that sat for 10 years
Thank you for all this information. I am having a problem with a 1974 White Yard Boss GT 1050. I have an old White Yard Boss GT1050, that is giving me fits.
This is a 1974 model with a 10HP B&S motor. Updraft carburetor. It started running real crappy, and died. I replaced the plug, and checked it for spark. Spark is good. Replaced the fuel filter. No luck! I ordered a carb kit, and installed. Carb was leaking out the hole in the bottom. I researched this and followed the recommendations on the Needle jet. No luck! I have fought this for three weeks now. I ordered a new carb. It has already had the repair on the needle done to it. Same story, leaks out the hole. Checked needle, and found the repair o-ring, and a good seat pattern in it. The engine will run if I keep priming it. I took a compression check on it. 100LBS compression cold. Checked it three times. I know this is an old bugger, but I am hoping someone may have some experience with these. They are great garden tractors. I installed an electronic conversion for the ignition. I will say the spark is much better. For some reason it will not pull the fuel from the carb up, and into the combustion chamber. Any ideas, because i am out of them. Give me a downdraft carb with a fuel pump, and it would be easier.
I'm not quite sure right off hand what the problem is without looking at it, sometimes its hard to diagnose something without working on it, hope you understand. Thats good compression, so I assume its not a valve issue causing it. Sometimes the float will stick in these and will cause the overflow problem, try tapping on the side of the carburetor and see if that stops that problem. Does it have good fuel flow to the carb? Thanks for Watching!!!
I have exactly the same problem. I have made the same repairs as you but no luck. I'm about to pull the flywheel to see if the key has been sheared. I have fuel and a good spark. Removed elbow and muffler. Valves are working fine. It ran perfect until I rebuilt the carb.
I even put old carb parts back in .Still no luck.
A complete mystery.
You just bailed me out!! Thank you, the carb adjustment you start with got me on the money!!
Thank you for the concise and simple explanation without the circus antics I see on some channels.
I linked this video rather than writing a wall of text explaining this process.
Thanks again.
Your welcome! Glad to help out. I try to keep videos to the point as much as possible. Thanks for Watching!!!
I have a old tiller and a 1974 (thanks for the B&S dating video) craftsman snow shark and didn't know where to start on them. Can't wait till the morning to get the snow shark going. Have a great day and thank you.
Your welcome, i hear ya, they are great engines. Thanks for Watching!!!
Thank you for this video. I was working on a 1983 Troy Built Horse III tiller w 8HP Briggs and could not find anything on how to properly adjust the new carburetor I bought. Huge Thanks.
Thank you.good information.you simplified that enough for me to understand.your a good wrench
Very good video. One thing I found, on my '94 Winco TF6000E generator with the 11 HP Briggs, which I got used a few years ago, was that the float pin holes in the upper body where completely worn oversized and rounded out. Come to find out that what causes this is the use of the generator on natural gas or propane without removing the float, needle and pin first. This apparently causes the float to flutter around violently while in use, causing the damage. It still works ok, and I'm planning on setting it up for natural gas, but a new upper carb body or new carb is in the future, if I continue to use it with Gasoline.
Thanks for sharing how to set it up and explaining the inns and outs
I see you're making good use of your free Harbor Freight flashlight.
haha yeah Thanks for Watching!!!
great video, did as he recommended, chipper/shredder now works great
Thanks! Glad to help out, Thanks for Watching!!!
Nice explanation, Thanks, I had one in my shop that had to have two gaskets on the top carb cover to stop leaking lots of gas.
Thanks. I might try that on the next one that leaks badly! Thanks for Watching!!!
They will sometime warp from the heat.Sand them down flat like you would a cylinder head with 1000 grit Sand paper .Will stop the seeping of gas.
Thanks for this. It helped me with a log splitter that I'm restoring.
Thanks for this vid, had a heck of a time finding this information, so was really glad to come across your vid. Old school and to the point, perfect! Again, thanks!
Can't beat the old stuff. I've got a sideways job on a Roof mower, 8 horse 'L' head I/C that mostly gets choked at the beginning of the season or if it sits for a month. Just turn it on and it'll fire the 1st or 2nd pull. I wish briggs would make a solid choke plate for the 'L' head plastid starting clutch dog 5 horse instead of the one with the hole in it. Lets too much air and not enough gas for cold starts. I can stick my thumb into the breather housing over the choke and it'll crank 1st pull but not until you try pulling it and your shoulder is gone. But it keeps me honest and Thanks! Pick me one!
Yep! I've noticed that seems like these 8hp rarely ever need choked except when cold or like you said been sitting. That is true, i agree with that. Thanks for Watching!!!
@@fnaguitarplayer9 Good place to be!
You are the man. This video helped me out big time. Thank you.
Thanks so much for this great video. I have a 1976 Briggs 8HP Toro snowblower (8-32 model specifically) and the exhaust glows red after a couple of minutes. I removed and cleaned the entire carb last year but I failed to properly adjust it because honestly I didn't know how. I suspect a lean condition so I will try this out first otherwise there may be a bigger issue I need to figure out. Anyhow, very helpful video. Thanks for sharing!
Your welcome! It could be a lean mixture causing that or also, it could be the exhaust valve not sealing good, if thats the case it will need to be reseated (lapped) and then the clearance (lash) set. hope this helps, thanks for watching!!!
@@fnaguitarplayer9 It worked!!! Thanks so much! You rock!!!
Hey On the mortar mixer I’m working on it has same engine and up flow carburetor. Then it has a adjustment screw with spring that adjustment for governor speed. Carburetor rebuild came out nice just trying to adjust high and low screws
Straight forward information. Thanks for the time to explain.
Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
Excellent explanation. Thank you. Big help
Very well done instructional video, Thanks
Thanks very much for this great video. I have this engine on an old wood chipper and the Throttle Bracket Assy has a mount that alows a screw through the bottom under the bowl, teh one that fits into the bottom of the carb. None of the new cheap carbs they sell out there allow their carbs to fit in this bracket, they have this extra half inch height to the post. You can even see it in the replacement carb you show in your video right here, you can see under the bowl the post sticks out an extra half inch than the carb on your motor you have already mounted! Why are they doing this...very frustrating. I did find a carb from one place that has the proper bottom bolt height, and I struggled to get it into my manifold, things just didn't line up right. I am hoping it's good enough, will be testing it out tomorrow...thanks again!
Your welcome! I did notice the difference in them, I don't know why they made them like that. Thanks for Watching!!!
Got the new right carb from Amazon.. Fyi
Thanks! you are a big help with my tiller motor
Great info, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Merry Christmas to You and family
Thank You’ll for video and all the time
I sure would love to see you make the change on these carburetors
Thanks, got me running when I was ready to punt!
Very helpful!! Many thanks.
Got mine running fine and smooth, starting on the first pull. But now, just three days later, it requires a shot of Gumout to start. And then it just dies after running for about three minutes. Any ideas??
Excellent Video.. easy to understand... Thank you so much..
😀
Worked like a charm. Thanks!
Great information, most helpful!
Good video! Can you tell me if there is any performance type parts available for the carb or motor? My motor is on a go-kart! Thanks
I rescued a Sears 917.292580 rototiller with 8 hp horizontal shaft engine today, went to look the parts up, and found that most of the parts to make it run are no longer available. What capacity gas tank is mounted on the engine you have, and if possible, what is the part number for it. The fuel tank was damaged when they put it on the curb, it's been sitting disused in the wild for some time, but engine is not seized. I'll be tinkering with it this Winter to keep myself busy (sane). I also recently picked up a John Deere X300 lawn tractor with 38" mower deck for a decent price, it had a run in with a Ford Ranger pickup. Another tinker toy.
1985 J-D model 111, 1988 J-D 185, 1997 J-D STX38 Black deck, 2003 J-D L110, 2010 J-D X300.
Talk about Deere Rescues.
Thank you for the great explanation on the carburetor but plz can you make a video explaining how the kill switch and other components on the bracket works , I’ve been looking everywhere to rebuild this bracket with new sprints but I don’t know where they go . I just saw where one of those sprint goes with that little explanation.
Thank so much !
I will put that on my list, it will be a while before i can get to it (alot going on, you will see soon!) your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
Thank you sir ....working great now ....
Thank for this. I learned a lot from this
Your welcome, glad to help out. Thanks for Watching!!!
Did a full rebuild, got it running but will not run unless 90% choked and even then is temperamental. I've tried to adjust the 3 different screws you mention but first, I want to fix the choke problem. It seems there is a way to adjust the spring backed screw on the choke lever and in fact, I can turn this screw that holds the choke lever on and I can adjust how much choke by again, turning the choke lever retention screw BUT NOT the choke lever. Maybe my choke butterfly plate is separated from the choke lever?
Also, idles very high - wondering if the new cable and cable housing is out of position on the screw and bracket that holds the cable to the throttle body - shown at 6:54: wondering if there is a distance that the cable housing must not be too far forward in the bracket that will screw something up. Seems I can shut it off by pushing the lever forward no problem but huge spike from 0 RPM to low. Seems to be zero low idle. Maybe I disconnect the cable and use my finger to slide that assembly which you mention is not replaceable.
Tempted to buy a $20 carb on Amazon but want to get my free 8hp blower running on OE parts - seems close. Thanks!
Got three engines with the updraft flojet ones on a 6 horse in a 66 bolens ones on a 1982 8 horse from a tiller and the last is on a 10 horse in a Allis big ten honestly I quite like this carb design
I like them to for the most part, they have their issues, but I like all the adjustment on them. Thanks for Watching!!!
Awesome video!! Thank you!!
I just purchased an old John Deere 68 that sat for a cpuple years. When I went to see it, it would not start until I put good gas in it. Only issue I have is it sputters quite a bit, it stays running but sounds like the choke is on the whole time. When I take the air filter out it comes to life and runs fine, when I put the cap back on with filter it spotters and loses power. I thought about replacing the carb, but it seems to run really well when it gets good air. Air filter looks ok, but I'll replace that tomorrow. I will also check adjustments as well, anything else that I might need to assess? Thanks.
This is great i have a home made tractor with a old giant briggs on it
I hope this helps, I got a used engine and it won't stop surging!
Pretty late to the party here just got a snowblower with an old 8hp on it. Can carb adjustment being too rich or lean cause kickback? I originally bought it a new carb it worked for a few months then started kicking rebuilt the old carb the original and put it on. It didn’t kick at me, today I went out and tried to start it and it kicked back at me again
Thanks for the information sure did help
Thank you very much ..very helpful 👍🏼
Question - I have followed your directions (thank you!), but my carburator (new) will not go into low idle without loping....I can get it adjusted to run nicely at 3600 rpm, but if I adjust it to low idle at 1800, it will lope and surge at 3600. The only way to fix it is to adjust the idle screw up and then I lose the low idle. Suggestions?
I have a 1983 8hp Briggs Stratton engine, I have totally rebuilt the updraft carb after ultra sonic cleaning as well as the fuel tank, it fires and runs well,, but seeps fuel more then I would like. Is this something I need to live with,, or is it time for a new carb.?
Thanks for this, I was about to toss my new carb!
Your welcome haha Thanks for Watching!!!
Is the pilot jet and the main jet the same thing? My RPM goes up and down continuously. A mechanic said the pilot jet is stopped up. Tomorrow I'll try cleaning the main jet and see it that fixes the problem. I have to run the engine at half choke to get it to run. I think that indicates the main jet is stopped up. Am I guessing right?
Very nice job on the video and content. Thank you
Appreciate that. Your welcome! thanks for watching!!!
@@fnaguitarplayer9 My son and I are working on our mid-seventies Sears Roto-Spader with the original 8HP Briggs. The thing is a brute and just needs some TLC. This helped us get it up and running again after cleaning.
@@Lalaluuke glad to help out! Hope you get it going!
Thanks for the help. Carbs can always be a pain in the ass.
Your welcome! yes they can! Thanks for Watching!!!
Greta videos. I recently acquired an old snowblower. Engine is a 8 HP B & S 170402 model (1967). It did work when I took it home. But I cleaned er up a bit and now it doesn't start. I just bought the carb kit and replaced the gaskets and the bottom jet/(the one on the bottom that comes up at an angle) . I sprayed all jets and holes with carb cleaner. I do have spark because it kicks in with starting fluid but will not run after that. I cleaned out the rusty fuel tank and I do have fresh fuel flowing from the tank. What should I do to get it going? Thanks
Check for screen in inlet fitting
I have an old Gilson snowblower with this carb that sometimes runs great, other times runs too rich or too lean and I have to adjust it. Seems like I'm always having to adjust it and sometimes I just can't seem to get it right but when it runs good it runs great. Next time I fire it up it isn't right either cold or warm until I adjust it again. It does always start and run, it just seems to be rich or lean randomly under load each day I use it. I replaced the old fuel hoses and inline fuel filter thinking they were decomposing but no change. I've since given up trying to figure it out as it always gets the job done. Any ideas?
Might be the deadness of the fuel. If it sits much it'll start going dead. Stihl man said 90 day shelf life.
I have a 1971 Gilson made Wards 14 horse garden tractor i've been working on and noticed as I ran it it did the same even after a rebuild until I put a different rebuilt carb on it, the culprit was the throttle valve shaft on the old one had enough play to allow air to get past it causing it to go lean in certain throttle positions and run horribly. If you can wiggle the shaft around in it's hole as it's running without rotating it and the idle changes or it starts running rough, thats why. It should have very little play but if it's as old as mine was the throttle shaft hole is probably worn enough to allow air to pas around the shaft.
@@justarel GOOD fix. I've got a 301 cast iron Kohler that's that way and I got another carb like the fixer got. It's a Gravely and a rotary plow and I don't want it fixed unless I need it or someone else does. That thing will kill a grizzly bear on steroids.
@@justarel Interesting, would have never thought of that. I'll check that when I get it out of storage this fall on the chance that's the cause. Thanks!
Helped allot.thank you.
I just took mine apart and cleaned it and put it back together. Now when I go to run it the whole intake starts filling up with gas and starts dripping all over. And ideas? New to carbs.
Thanks for the explanation.
Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
Great video. I have a love/hate relationship with mine. It runs great for 10 minutes then falls flat on its face. Any suggestions?
Tank cap vent or stopped up fuel line or in tank
Honda has a filter in tank fitting
Thank you great help good video
I have one on a ez rake...it runs at 2700 and that's enough for me...I couldn't imagine running one of these at 3600...I also have a lot bigger exhaust and I think it's flowing out alot better then stock
Thank you helped me a bunch!!
Your welcome, glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!!!
Problem Iam having is got new down draft carburator but won't run unless I put gas in carburetor gas is getting to carburetor started pulling my hair out.any ideas.
Thank you. Hopefully this helps me out with my tote gote I just bought
Your welcome! Thanks for Watching!!!
Thank you Sir!
Maybe it’s buried in the comments but how about adjusting the idle mix on a generator or in my case a wood chipper with no throttle
Just finished mine and it starts easily and runs really well now but it just dies suddenly at random, then after a few minutes starts and runs my wood splitter perfectly for another few minutes, then dies again like a float issue is all I can think of ? any suggestion ? thanks for posting its the identical engine and a great tutorial
If its just shutting off like you turned the switch off it could be the coil going bad on it, get a inline spark tester and see if its loosing spark when it does it. It could be a carb issue, if its running out of fuel could be not enough fuel flow do to a collapsed fuel line or clogged filter. Thanks for Watching!!!
Hey Nice video tutorial . I’m working on one like this on a mortor mixer. Just did a rebuild on carburetor. Isn’t 3600 rpm too high ? Thank you
I set it at 3000 max
And I subscribed.
i have this exact same engine. ive cleaned the carb, adjusted it like you said and the manual said. i cannot get this thing started. ive tried everything. i thought it might be getting flooded but the spark plug is dry. tons of gas comes out the intake, as im trying to get it running with out the air cleaner.
These are very picky carburetors, great when they are working though. Common problems are float/needle valve sticking and where the emulsion tube goes in, you have to tighten it real tight and loosen it then tighten it again to get a good seal on it. Then set both mixture screws to about 1 and 1/2 turns out and it should try to run. Thanks for Watching!!!
Actually I found out the key was sheared
@@matthewmiddleton63 I hear ya! I assumed it would be a carb issue.
I've got an 8hp B&S that looks exactly like this one. Mine might be a few years older. It's on a 48" concrete troweling machine. I just replaced the carb with a new one l found on eBay. I set all the screws like you said and got it fired up and running. However My problem is as I fine tune it either at a low idle or running fast l can not get it to manually get it to throttle up or down. The governor spring stays fully extended keeping the the top flap wide open.
I am suspicious of the governor spring and the throttle cable. Do you have any suggestions or another viedo to watch on how to set the throttle cable adjustment or the governor spring. Also the motor after adjusting the idle speed still pulses as it's running. Any ideas on this?
I saw the small part of this viedo where you refered to it.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for all you do.
You may need to adjust the governor, if say the new carburetor has a slightly different throttle plate where the linkages connects it could be throwing it off, i do have a video on the cable adjustment too. watch these 2 here and see if that helps. Its a different engine, but all of it will be basically same just will be layed out different. ua-cam.com/video/1WWpeyDbHjA/v-deo.html and ua-cam.com/video/9rO8AvDrdeM/v-deo.html Thanks for Watching!!!
@@fnaguitarplayer9 thank for the quick reply.I watched the videos and will make these adjustments tomorrow and let you know how it worked out.
Just wanted to say thank you again and update you by on my progress. The governor checked out ok. The culprit turned out to be the throttle cable bracket on the engine it had slipped / moved causing the governor spring to be to tight. Once I got it back in place the tension on the spring corrected, then I was able to get the carb adjustment correct. Running well now. Your videos helped indirectly by leading me to check things that uncovered the problem. Keep up the good works.
Blessings to you and your family for sharing.
I have the same engine & put on a new carb. It runs for about a minute and then dies. I have tried adjusting the 2 screws but still dies after a minute or so. Any other suggestions. Great video btw and thanks for any input
My fuel on/off valve on the bottom of the tank was clogged. I had to pull the fuel tank. Clean both the tank and the on/off valve. I ended up replacing the fuel line and fuel filter as well. Everything feeding the fuel to the carburetor was in bad shape. Hope this helps.
@@keithadennisthanks for getting back to me and I will check those items as well
Any luck Dave? I have the same engine and a similar problem. engine runs for about 30 seconds, surges a little and then dies.
@@killdeer I did have debris on the petcock valve and I think it got through & into the new carb. So I cleaned the gas tank, petcock, fuel line & new fuel filter & also took the new carb off to thoroughly clean that. Put everything back together with new gas. Now I can’t get it started. Even tried starting fluid. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for checking back
@@killdeer it’s a 8hp Briggs and Stratton engine on Homelite generator (4400 watt)
I have acolder 8hp troy I replaced the carb on and fuel lines and it won't start. I put some gas and it fired but adjusted l8ke you said and still won't start. I believe the carbs a China copy
Thx
Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
👍
Thanks for Watching!!!
Where'd you get your carburetor from ?
Hipi carb are good
From Hipi store online
Mine is seeping gas as well, why are they design to do that?
If its excessive it could be a bad gasket, but its actually a vent on one side, and if the gas level is to high (possibly from float not set right or just from sloshing around) it will seep some. I have no idea why they made it like that and not use a standard vent. Thanks for Watching!!!
@@fnaguitarplayer9 Thx for the explanation!!
you should send me that new carb
thanks