I had an old carb that just wouldn't stop leaking. Ended up buying a new emulsion tube, turning off the threads and used it as a lap for both angled seats. I grazed on a piece of brass so I could chuck it in a drill, put some fine grit lapping compound on the tube angle faces and lapped her back in so she sealed. If the carbs are left for a while and the pot metal loses its protective skin, it gets all white and powdery and will not seal at all. Great video, keep them coming!
I have a 1966 Simplicity 2110 Landlord with a Briggs and Stratton10 horse engine that my father just gave me, yes I spent many hours cutting grass and plowing snow with this tractor as a teenager, now I'm fifty and this Simplicity will not die. The first thing I did was to replace the gas tank, I had a stainless steel tank made then I disassemble the carburetor because of gas leaks. The gas was leaking badly out of the weeping hole. I'm happy to hear that I did not make the problem worse by not aligning the float needle valve properly. Thanks for the video.
I've owned just about every type of Garden Tractor out there, and Simplicity and Allis Chalmers are by far the toughest most versatile machines out there, no matter their age. Great to hear yours is still working hard for you! Cheers! Zip~
Well, actually you saved the Generator my friend! I just helped you with the issue! So glad to hear it's back up and running as it should! By the way....old equipment is never scrap material. There's always a way to bring them back. Cheers!! Zip~
Your video was perfect in my book. Right points pointed, slow enough to understand and follow along with carb in hand. Thanks. Now I got see if it works.
THANK YOU so much for your instruction, you solved the problem/frustration of gas dripping from my mothers 45 year old Troybilt tiller!! We bought two new carburetors, one aftermarket and one OEM & they both did the same thing you described. I did exactly what you instructed on the OEM up to 9:50 on your video and the gas is no longer dripping, now we don't have to shut the gas off at the tank anymore!!
Thank you! Exactly what i needed to see. My 1962 Simplicity Model W walk-behind has an 8hp Briggs whose carb has the same design .... And the same flaw. Two new carbs, I tried. Both leaked. Total of three leaking carbs. And now the explanation. So easy to fix. Thank you!
I wish you were my neighbour! Damn we would have a blast with engines and all.. There is an abundant amount of information in all your videos. That's just so kind of you to do and help so much. Thx
I bought a Simplicity 725 a few months ago with a mower deck and snow blower and it has this very same problem. I checked the float and cleaned the carb but it leaked as soon as I put gas back to it. I cant wait to try this out. Keep up the videos, they are very helpful, as I have learned a lot from them. I also have an Allis Chalmers B1 that my wife's Uncle won from a 1 dollar raffle ticket at a fire department carnival back in 1964.
Thanks for the video. I bought a couple AC 7xxH parts tractors for my son to combine into one working tractor. The old carb had stripped threads in the pot metal for the metering jet so we bought a new carb which arrived all leaky... This video appears to be the answer. Thanks and see you on SimpleTractors!
Great video! I got a NOS re-build kit from eBay and it had a little scrap of a bulletin that said on engines with fuel pumps to remove the spring on the float that holds the needle valve. My engine was surging or rolling, especially at idle, so I did that to my flo-jet and it worked. The leaking on mine was from the welch plug, so the replacement in the kit seemed to help, but the spring removal was done at the same time, so that could have solved my leaking problem. I did not try seating the emulsion tube as you demonstrated, but I will. Thanks!
Zippo, again you are a credit to all that is good with life and old Simplicitys. Trying to do this proved problematic with my "custom" screwdriver. On my 7116, even a fairly short screwdriver was hitting the frame and I couldn't get a feel for when the long jet tube bottomed out. So I will have to buy a stubby and grind that to fit. then I shall see if the fix works. Thanks again, Charlie
For older leaky ones, use the Teflon repair gasket got the pulse prime carb. And always remove the the emulsion tube before taking the to off, it will bend or break if you don’t. Good video.
this video got my old generator going. and running like new. first pull Everytime. and with Hermine approaching Massachusetts I will be ready. thanks for posting!
Thank you for the video! Helps me out, I'll have to show my dad why his Sears 10/6 was leaking gas for over 25 years out the weep hole! I've tried it and it does work for those who need a second view.
It worked for me! Just got a 5hp with the updraft carb that was in unknown condition. Leaked like hell when I filled the tank. Tried this trick and worked like I charm!
Zippo, I want to say I really enjoy your videos, my dad bought a 1962 Montgomery Wards Squire 9 brand new, I recently went to work on this tractor after a. year of not running, the 12V battery was twelve yrars old and would no longer hold a charge, after restoring the battery, which I have done several of now and they hold a great charge, anyway, I go to your videos first now to see if you have had problems similar to what this tractor may be exhibiting, I have been turning a wrench on vehicles since I was a kid( but after a stroke in 2005 my memory sometimes just goes, no sympathy , just wanted to point out how helpful your vids are) , sometimes though these little tractors can throw something a little different, I was watching the video on points and condensors, how sometimes this can actually cause problems similar to an older vehicle points and condensr that can make you think it is a carb problem, acting like an ignition control module etc, well, I went looking for your video on points and expected to find the points and condensor on the tractor, only to find my dad had been there, removed the condensor, wired in a coil from mid seventied pickup' added a resistor next to tge coil, took me a while to diagnose the problem, I could see the points fire when turning it over, had current at the coil but no spark, replaced the coil, worked for about three revolutions of tge engine then dead again, that is when I noticed the points werent firing again, loosened the adjustment on tge points, fired once then the points arm fell off, when inspectingbtge arm there was a small crack that was almost thtough the arm, looked in the spare parts and found another set of points and replaced them using your video and gap setting, IT'S ALIVE. It fixed what I had thought was a carb problem because everytime this would get hot the tractor seemed lije it was surging up then down, would foul the plug because it wasnt sparking like it should. I know, talk talk talk, just saying keep up the videos. Thumbs up!
I babble on all the time Robert, so talk all you want and I'll listen! Just an FYI, your Squire 9, being Gold in color and with the 23D engine is a 1964. In 1962, the Garden Mark looks just like my Old Squire with cyclops headlight and flip up hood and they're orange instead of gold. I too have a Squire 9, although mine is a clone. They are identical to the early Allis Chalmers B-10 and Simplicity Landlord. If you'll find me on Facebook (ZippoVarga) or email at ZippoVarga@gmail.com, I would be happy to send you manuals on your engine and tractor and any implements you may also have. Cheers! Zip~
Basically you are machining a new seating for the beveled portion of the jet by backing off and tightening a few times. Yup I have a carb for what could be a 16 hp cast-iron block. This is going to be a good project
Pleased to say after watching this video and the one on sanding the points when you loose spark my 1967 allis chalmers b10 is back up and running again still weeping a little but hey shes running and thats all that I care Thanks for the great videos
Thanks zippo your alot of help as usual now I just need help on adjusting clutch by the way I know a guy that could be your twin and even sound alike.thanks again brian.
Nice, so I just picked up from a buddy an early 80s Workhorse GT1000, got it pulled apart to clean tank, carb and all the years of neglect and sitting static in my buddy's junkyard, I'm gonna pull this Carb apart tomorrow and wanted a review knew you would have it! Haven't gotten to my AC Bigten yet needs some parts and im broke more or less, got the workhorse for helping him on a couple of projects. But he knew I was lusting for it....
I think it's awesome that you were able to get the GT1000! Wheel Horse is no joke. I used to be a Wheel Horse guy before I discovered Simplicity. Cheers! Zip~
I'm working on a wheel horse c-81 with a 10 hp briggs and stratton ( yes leaky carb included that's what I was trying fix and fixed it once now I need to fix it again)
@@therelentlesscreator3938 I never could get the Briggs to run right, plus clutch nightmare's so I threw a Honda 13hp on mine just added a double pulley and away I went. Use it all the time tons of power, simple engine swap makes the old wheelhorse so much more useable its def no collector piece it earns its pay everyday.
Just found this video due to the fact that my 1966 B10 all is chalmers has a costant leak. Like what your saying an it's a new f#@$kin carb. Can't wait to try tighten ing the fuel tube. An start it up will text you back when I get to it this week end hopefully this will be the cure Ray Stein
Well I found that out the hard way last week when I brought a 40 dollar one when that didn't work I brought the briggs one for 131 but it leaked. Which is when I found her video that's when I put the guts from the one I brought in the old briggs carb due to break ing off the emulsion tube cause it wasn't in the hole at the top a bent it off but with the one from the China carb in the old carb im anxious to try resetting the tube to stop the seeping while the engine is runnig
I'm glad I found your video before I bought one but I somehow managed to fix it once then I took it apart again cause I accidentally crushed the needle and it wasn't getting any gas the so I took the needle out and rolled it on a file to get it round again
very timely, as you know (based on the pics i sent) the throttle linkage on my flo-jet is reversed, and affecting the governor operation. well on closer look, there is an abnormal end play on the throttle shaft as well as evident wear on the shaft hole in the casting.. Remedy will be likely the spare off the '68 landlord. Learned a lot more about the emulsion tube engineering. Thanks Buddy! I just have to wait for this incessant rain to stop before incapacitating the '69 Landlord "Princess" .Then off to fix the thottle cable, and install the lights.
Awesome video mister. I have been working on a "tug pulling" Gilson/Montgomery Ward with what I think is a 16hp Iron block Briggs and guess what, The damn carb leaks. GO figure. Now wishing I would have watched this video after resetting the float level , umpteen times. Thanks for the tips.
Gonna try it. Mine does it on a 10hp, 1964 Allis. You've been rite sooooo far. Now I have Gov issues. The Briggs Manuel you sent me doesnt show the springs location. I need to get NEW springs, the ones that it came with look like they came off an old cot. The hookup points are the question. It's a Landlord Allis Big 10
I have a complete series on governors on the channel Garry. All your questions should be answered within them. As for obtaining parts, see my other reply to your comment on the Governor 2 video. Cheers! Zip~
Zippo many many Thanks!! for this video and your explanation on how to fix the Flo Jet updraft carb. Exactly the fix I needed for the carb on the AC BIG TEN. ;-)
Designed to work, not be leak free lol. But they're very versatile and dependable when properly maintained and understood. That's the key...understanding them, and why I have posted so many video's on them. Cheers! Zip~
Johnny's shows the emulsion tube with the rebuild kit but when you get it it's not there. They said they don't include it any more. They didn't charge me for shipping but it was about 15.00 more this was summer of 2016. Insult to injury I had to pay Taxes on it because I'm located i Maryland as they are. Thanks you are the reason I could a rebuild the carburetor. I had bought a new chines that looked good but they had landed the metering valve so hard it stripped off brass and deformed it badly . One day you will have to explain the ignition to me It' an 89 7 hp. horse . By and Thanks
Hi would you have any videos on how to hook up linkage, springs on a up draft pot medal carb for a wood spliter, bought and nothing hooked i could use your advice, just came with a bag with springs and wires I bought a new Briggs an station carb, and of course nothing included but one gasket a bit of advice for a mountain girl . did watch all your videos on that carb and was helpful. Thanks P.S. I did subscribe .
Hi Frosty. I'm sorry for the long delay in replying. Email me @ ZippoVarga@gmail.com and include photos so I can help you. There are a number of different throttle configurations used with the Up Draft carbs. Cheers! Zip~
My carb didn't leak initially, but it started leaking after it was 20 years old. Pot metal slowly expands over time (most low-melting metals re-arrange their crystalline structure over time), causing one of the seats to unseat. I independently discovered this (I put water in the fuel bowl of the open carb, and saw weeping around the bottom of the emulsion tube). So if your engine starts getting cantankerous to start, it could be due to flooding of the lower air channel because of this leakage.
"there goes that high pitched voice again" then you decide to continue to speak like that hahaha I love the humor.. another great and informative video! Thanks!
I have a series on Governor operation on a variety of engines. Check those out to see if your questions are answered. If not, then we can see if we can sort out your issues. Just a side note, on one video I was incorrect in the sequence/process. It goes as follows, Loosen nut to governor arm, open throttle butterfly fully, rotate governor pin clockwise until it stops, pull governor arm down until it stops then lock down the retaining nut on the governor arm. Hope this helps and thanks for the Kudos! I try to throw in a little humor here and there. Cheers! Zip~
well ill be damned ... had that trouble years and years id turn the gas off or just let it drip this has went on over 25 years on some of my old briggs.. pretty smart fix
Hey Zippo love your down to earth comments and vast knowledge on these machines. I just brought a new carb for my Sears SS15 and it leaked slightly there also and now I know why, THANKS MAN!!! one other thing, my carb has the choke on the wrong side and with what you just explained in this vid I will attempt to swap it around with out screwing it up. Also the air filter stud and joke cable clamp screw appear to be different thread pitch?, still looking into that. Anyway goos vids and you are the first one I have evr subbed to, keep up the good work.
Hey Zippo, than you for this. I have a 1969 Gilson Garden Mark Squire 12 tractor. This has recently became an issue. My carburetor is not new. When I got the tractor the other day the throttle cable tand choke cables were frozen. I was able to get the throttle cable unfrozen. The choke control cable broke. I cannot find this part anywhere. Where and how do you get replacement parts? Also after reinstalling my throttle cable the throttle cable will not stay in "fast" it pulls back to about mid-throttle. Is there an easy fix fr this issue?
I am having trouble finding an engine number for my 1966 Moto mower Briggs 6hp . I need the coil , can you supply a coil number? Coil has been tested and is not good. Thanks for this tip Sir!
Hello, I finally found this video on my exact carburetor for my air compressor. Thanks for the great video. I'm unable to find a video on this carburetor of how to adjust. I can only find videos that have the valve at the bottom also. Mine is exactly like this...it only has the high speed and low speed as you showed here. Can you please advise how to correctly adjust the fuel mixture? Pretty please? Thanks for the extra info about that cap at the end too! I didn't know what I was doing until I found this:)
I've got carb adjustment videos on my channel Renee. I'm glad this video found its way to you and I hope you're able to get things dialed in. The "standard" setting is, Two turns out of the lower main metering screw and 1 1/2 turns out on the idle screw that faces the air cleaner base. Be very careful to NOT tighten the main metering screw...just gently turn it down until you feel resistance where you're pretty sure it's seated. Over tighten it and you'll create a ridge on the metering needle and then you're in for a fight to get the carb adjustment right. Again, Videos on my channel. Good Luck! Zip~
Smart creative kids get that way from being around smart creative parents. I never saw that layering technique before. (In Photoshop yes, but not real world) Dad- I’m glad you know those carbs and I appreciate you taking the time to pass it along. Daughter- I thought that was a photo at first glance! Keep making the world a prettier place, I think you have that something that most people can only dream about. Best Father’s Day present is an art scholarship 😬
My Daughter is extraordinarily artistic. Although she has a full time job at a factory, she's quickly becoming known for her photography skills and is booked in her studio. She got a little of Dad's DNA for sure! Cheers John, and thanks much for making my day with your awesome comment. Cheers! Zip~
Great video, i have an old generator with this carb. The carb was completely rusted out on the inside. I bought the exact carb in this video. The problem is I need to reverse the high speed butterfly because the orientation of the connection / pull for the throttle on the new carb forces the engine to run wide open. It looks like I can just pull the pin on the adjustment side, take the screw out of the butterfly and reverse the shaft running through the carb and reinstall the butterfly and pin. Will that work? Will the engine run right? Thanks Sean
It sounds like you purchased a Chinesium knock off instead of an OEM Briggs & Stratton carburetor. The old saying, you get what you pay for holds true with them. An OEM Briggs carburetor would cost between $175 and $300 depending on the model. My guess is, you paid around 30-40 bucks. All I can say is best of luck getting it to run right. I have heard people say they've gotten them to stop leaking and run correctly. And, you should be able to reorient the shaft and butterfly plate. I wish you good luck Sean. Please keep me posted. Zip~
That’s exactly what it probably is a $30 chicom carb. I found the generator in the trash. I have been bored during the Covid quarantine so I am playing with this generator to keep busy. I don’t need it. For 30 bucks and a beer I have something to do in the garage. I am going to reorient the butterfly see what happens.
Great video. I have gas leaking from around the top of the fiber washer above the high speed jet is that because of the same problem you just explained here? Thanks
I have the same updraft carb part number 392587 from Briggs but the throttle shaft is set to ten o’clock closed to the linkage can pull it down to open…also there’s a threaded hole on one side as well as the one that holds the air filter bolt in…I got everything buttoned up and it’s running great, but when I kill it, it seems to have a little gas/oil mix near the weep hole or the hole for the air filter bolt/screw whatever…it starts and runs fine with this happening. Now I did add some oil and it smoked for a while but now it runs smooth and no smoke, just this tiny discharge of oil/gas…what do you recommend? I got the main jet on there tight as well as the metering ones and it’s tuned great…
Hi Will. That little hole is called the Weep Hole. And for good reason....when you shut the engine off, the engine doesn't stop rotating instantly, it winds down, and as it does so, fuel is being pulled up in pulses as the engine comes to a stop. That unburned fuel has to go somewhere, so it gravity feeds back down the throat of the carburetor to the weep hole. It's perfectly normal and why the weep hole exists. It's usually a few drops and the reason it appears oily or darker than fuel is just sediment it picks up along the way to the weep hole. Reducing the engine to slow idle before shutting off the engine will reduce the amount of fuel that drains back down. Zip~
Thank you for your videos. I have learned a lot and enjoy solving my own problems. I have a 1988 Little Giant Leaf blower with an 8HP B&S engine with the same type of carburetor you show. It runs well - once you get it started, but I have to use starter fluid to start it cold or if it sits a while. Any ideas as to what adjustments I should make to get it to start off the pull?
Check for weak spark. Often, in these older engines, the carburetors aren't the problem. But it's the first thing people look to. Go to a hotter spark plug for starters. Meaning, the distance between the insulator and threads is larger (or Taller) than the stock CJ8 type plug. Also, no need to install an internally resisted plug like an RJ or the like. Any spark plug with an "R" in the ID is resisted. Only the newer electronic ignition engines benefit from these types of spark plugs. If your starting issue continues after installing a hotter spark plug, then I would clean the points (under the flywheel) and re-gap the coil. If, after this is completed, you may have low compression if hard starting persists. Then, it would mean a cylinder honing, re-ringing and lapping the valves. Cheers! Zip~ p.s. You can check the compression, but if the engine is an "easy spin", then there is a compression release on starting that will give you false numbers. So to get an accurate reading, you must rotate the engine over anti-clockwise (counterclockwise).
ZippoVarga Thank you. I will check that out. I also noticed today when I started it up that here was gas at the air intake. After you start it, the gas disappears and it will start without quick start. I think there must be a leak somewhere causing this and it is suffocating the engine at startup.
What a great trick with that emulsion tube! Question for ya, I notice the intake gasket on my engine at the intake elbow was wet with gas. Is it running to rich? Any ideas?
I just got one of these Briggs and Stratton engines with a slightly different carb where the air intake is a separate part. I experience the same issue of it leaking gas. The bolt hole underneath, I don't know what it's called, the one to the left of the weep hole if your looking at it with the emulsion tube on your left. The bolt screws in but doesn't go all the way in, instead it keeps turning. I'm guessing either something is stripped. Have you seen this? Do you think I should get a new bolt or new carb or both?
I'm currently battling a carburetor issue. I believe it has to do with spring tension on the governor.. I have a few questions for you to help me diagnose my issue if you don't mind
Zippo - This is an informative video and may have helped me fix my leaky updraft carburetor but it is not entirely correct. I suspect that you are right that the carb can leak as a result of a poor seating of the upper, small bevel seating surface of the emulsion tube against the pot metal seat where the tube enters the carburetor throat. But, there is no seating surface for the lower, larger bevel on the emulsion tube. That does nothing. The only path for fuel to get to the carburetor throat from the float bowl is through the upper small sealing area or through the emulsion tube itself. If you look at your carb you will see a passageway coming straight down from the bottom of the fuel bowl to the area between the emulsion tube and the adjustment needle. That area is always flooded with fuel which supplies the lower end of the emulsion tube. As you pointed out, there are a couple of small holes in the emulsion tube directly below the small bevel seal which allow fuel to flood directly up through the emulsion tube into the cavity below the seal at all times. It is normal to have fuel in there which will not leak out unless it gets past that upper bevel.
Zippo, thanks for your quick reply as to rebuild kits for my Simplicity 7116 16hp B&S carb. I watched this video and it is excellent. When I went to do this, gas was streaming out of the carb. Is there no gas shut off on these engines? IF gas was coming out of the weep hole and leaking from the top as you explain does that mean a rebuild kit with some float work is necessary?
I give advice with a general assumption that some things need not be mentioned. However...you need to disconnect the fuel line and remove the carburetor to perform any in depth maintenance on the carburetor. When you do disassemble the carburetor, you may find sediment build up in the bowl and possibly a float that has developed a hole. Until you have it apart and have accessed the damage, I can't say what your carburetor needs or doesn't need. Reference the three part carburetor rebuild videos while disassembling the carburetor to help prevent doing damage to it. As for a fuel shut off...that's the job of the float in the carburetor. You should purchase a fuel shut off to place on the fuel line and make a habit of always shutting the fuel off and allowing the engine to run out of gas. This will keep the carburetor in tip top shape with todays harmful ethanol laced fuels, which cause irreversible damage to the metals and gaskets. If you're not mechanically inclined, you may want to enlist the help of a friend or family member who has good mechanical skills and understanding of how things work to help guide you along this repair process. Zip~
Hey zippo I have been trying to find vids about adjusting what I think is a rich condition on my 16 hp gilson with the up flow carb. I think iam on the right track with the lower mixture screew, but just wondering if there are any vids that I cant find about adjusting lean/rich.
With the numbers off your engine, go to the Briggs and Stratton web sight, download your IPL (Individual Parts Manual) and then enter the part or parts you need in Google and you'll have all the resources at your finger tips and you'll have done it your self AND have all of the other 300+ part numbers at your finger tips instead of me giving you a single number and where to buy it. Now you're self sufficient and I've taught you how to do it. Teachers don't give answers to questions, they give you direction on how to find the answers. You're welcome and good luck! Zip~
Zippo, Thank you for this excellent video. I made a stubby screwdriver to your specs and it worked well. I have my 7116 running well. Yes, the owner had mucked up the threads for the tube and idle screw. But with the proper screwdriver I got the tube in and "seated" well. No leaks and it runs. Thank you. Now, I have a snowblower and do you really run a belt from the blower hitch all the way back to the rear PTO or am I missing something? Any idea how long that belt is? Thank you again. Charlie
Go to Simpletractors.com, register and there are hundreds of collectors there who can help you. I don't collect the later model tractors or their implements, so I can't be of assistance. Zip~
Correct....the weep hole is the lowest point and where the fuel travels to. Seat the emulsion tube as shown and the weeping should stop. If not, re-seat until it does stop leaking. Being careful to not damage the delicate brass driver slot. Zip~
and what is to do when this carburetor is also leaking out of the throttle shaft / throttle wave on the upper carb body ? I don't understand why it can be leaking out of the throttle shaft from the throttle wave. I believe that the float needle valve does not close properly and the carburator overflows. What did you think about this ?
Do not buy it from brig's cause it's like $200+ on brig's and stratton website. ( Look up the engine model number with Briggs and Stratton carburetor after the number and you should find some)
You know I've had one of those sitting in a bin for a few years, I had given up on it. Your little trick here worked fantastically.
Exactly as you said. No more leaking. Thanks a lot! I know it's a long time ago (7 years) but still appropriate. Great video!!!
I had an old carb that just wouldn't stop leaking. Ended up buying a new emulsion tube, turning off the threads and used it as a lap for both angled seats. I grazed on a piece of brass so I could chuck it in a drill, put some fine grit lapping compound on the tube angle faces and lapped her back in so she sealed. If the carbs are left for a while and the pot metal loses its protective skin, it gets all white and powdery and will not seal at all. Great video, keep them coming!
Great video. Clear audio with no backround music or other garbage noise, easily understandable, and very informative!
Very well made video. Finally someone who knows what they are doing. Much appreciated.
I'm glad you found it useful Don! I've got a number of videos associated with these carburetors and the engines they run. Cheers! Zip~
I have a 1966 Simplicity 2110 Landlord with a Briggs and Stratton10 horse engine that my father just gave me, yes I spent many hours cutting grass and plowing snow with this tractor as a teenager, now I'm fifty and this Simplicity will not die. The first thing I did was to replace the gas tank, I had a stainless steel tank made then I disassemble the carburetor because of gas leaks. The gas was leaking badly out of the weeping hole. I'm happy to hear that I did not make the problem worse by not aligning the float needle valve properly. Thanks for the video.
I've owned just about every type of Garden Tractor out there, and Simplicity and Allis Chalmers are by far the toughest most versatile machines out there, no matter their age. Great to hear yours is still working hard for you! Cheers! Zip~
Thank You Sir! Your video just saved my 35 years old Homelite 7500watts Volt-Matic generator from a one-way trip to the recycling yard.
Well, actually you saved the Generator my friend! I just helped you with the issue! So glad to hear it's back up and running as it should! By the way....old equipment is never scrap material. There's always a way to bring them back. Cheers!! Zip~
Your video was perfect in my book.
Right points pointed, slow enough to understand and follow along with carb in hand. Thanks. Now I got see if it works.
THANK YOU so much for your instruction, you solved the problem/frustration of gas dripping from my mothers 45 year old Troybilt tiller!! We bought two new carburetors, one aftermarket and one OEM & they both did the same thing you described. I did exactly what you instructed on the OEM up to 9:50 on your video and the gas is no longer dripping, now we don't have to shut the gas off at the tank anymore!!
Glad it helped!! Cheers! Zip~
One of the best explanations on B@S carbs. You Sir, are a Godsend.
Thank you!
Exactly what i needed to see. My 1962 Simplicity Model W walk-behind has an 8hp Briggs whose carb has the same design .... And the same flaw. Two new carbs, I tried. Both leaked. Total of three leaking carbs. And now the explanation. So easy to fix. Thank you!
I hope you're able to remedy the drip Dizzy! Zip~
Thanks, Zippo. Love the old Briggs stuff.
I wish you were my neighbour! Damn we would have a blast with engines and all..
There is an abundant amount of information in all your videos. That's just so kind of you to do and help so much.
Thx
I bought a Simplicity 725 a few months ago with a mower deck and snow blower and it has this very same problem. I checked the float and cleaned the carb but it leaked as soon as I put gas back to it. I cant wait to try this out. Keep up the videos, they are very helpful, as I have learned a lot from them. I also have an Allis Chalmers B1 that my wife's Uncle won from a 1 dollar raffle ticket at a fire department carnival back in 1964.
Thanks for the video. I bought a couple AC 7xxH parts tractors for my son to combine into one working tractor. The old carb had stripped threads in the pot metal for the metering jet so we bought a new carb which arrived all leaky... This video appears to be the answer. Thanks and see you on SimpleTractors!
Awesome! I hope your problems are solved and that you have good luck with the rest of the project. Cheers! Zip~
Great video! I got a NOS re-build kit from eBay and it had a little scrap of a bulletin that said on engines with fuel pumps to remove the spring on the float that holds the needle valve. My engine was surging or rolling, especially at idle, so I did that to my flo-jet and it worked. The leaking on mine was from the welch plug, so the replacement in the kit seemed to help, but the spring removal was done at the same time, so that could have solved my leaking problem. I did not try seating the emulsion tube as you demonstrated, but I will. Thanks!
Zippo, again you are a credit to all that is good with life and old Simplicitys. Trying to do this proved problematic with my "custom" screwdriver. On my 7116, even a fairly short screwdriver was hitting the frame and I couldn't get a feel for when the long jet tube bottomed out. So I will have to buy a stubby and grind that to fit. then I shall see if the fix works.
Thanks again,
Charlie
For older leaky ones, use the Teflon repair gasket got the pulse prime carb. And always remove the the emulsion tube before taking the to off, it will bend or break if you don’t. Good video.
this video got my old generator going. and running like new. first pull Everytime. and with Hermine approaching Massachusetts I will be ready. thanks for posting!
Great video Zippo you made my day I have a 14 hp simplicity tractor with that Leakey carb now I have the answer thanks very much.
Thank you for the video! Helps me out, I'll have to show my dad why his Sears 10/6 was leaking gas for over 25 years out the weep hole! I've tried it and it does work for those who need a second view.
WOW Thank you so much! I have been wondering why my carburetor would not stop leaking! Totally awesome, thank you!
I hope it helps you out!! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga Oh yeah it did! Absolutely no leaking!! Thanks so much!
It worked for me! Just got a 5hp with the updraft carb that was in unknown condition. Leaked like hell when I filled the tank. Tried this trick and worked like I charm!
Fantastic! I'm glad you found the video and were able to fix the problem! Cheers! Zip~
You were spot on why carb leaked. Great fix. Thanks
I am glad it helped you out Robert! Cheers! Zip~
Finally !! i just went through this on a briggs engine in my bolens, that makes it all very clear, the best instructions yet by far,,great job.
you did a great job explaining this headache of a leak . thank you.
Zippo, I want to say I really enjoy your videos, my dad bought a 1962 Montgomery Wards Squire 9 brand new, I recently went to work on this tractor after a. year of not running, the 12V battery was twelve yrars old and would no longer hold a charge, after restoring the battery, which I have done several of now and they hold a great charge, anyway, I go to your videos first now to see if you have had problems similar to what this tractor may be exhibiting, I have been turning a wrench on vehicles since I was a kid( but after a stroke in 2005 my memory sometimes just goes, no sympathy , just wanted to point out how helpful your vids are) , sometimes though these little tractors can throw something a little different, I was watching the video on points and condensors, how sometimes this can actually cause problems similar to an older vehicle points and condensr that can make you think it is a carb problem, acting like an ignition control module etc, well, I went looking for your video on points and expected to find the points and condensor on the tractor, only to find my dad had been there, removed the condensor, wired in a coil from mid seventied pickup' added a resistor next to tge coil, took me a while to diagnose the problem, I could see the points fire when turning it over, had current at the coil but no spark, replaced the coil, worked for about three revolutions of tge engine then dead again, that is when I noticed the points werent firing again, loosened the adjustment on tge points, fired once then the points arm fell off, when inspectingbtge arm there was a small crack that was almost thtough the arm, looked in the spare parts and found another set of points and replaced them using your video and gap setting, IT'S ALIVE. It fixed what I had thought was a carb problem because everytime this would get hot the tractor seemed lije it was surging up then down, would foul the plug because it wasnt sparking like it should. I know, talk talk talk, just saying keep up the videos. Thumbs up!
I babble on all the time Robert, so talk all you want and I'll listen! Just an FYI, your Squire 9, being Gold in color and with the 23D engine is a 1964. In 1962, the Garden Mark looks just like my Old Squire with cyclops headlight and flip up hood and they're orange instead of gold. I too have a Squire 9, although mine is a clone. They are identical to the early Allis Chalmers B-10 and Simplicity Landlord. If you'll find me on Facebook (ZippoVarga) or email at ZippoVarga@gmail.com, I would be happy to send you manuals on your engine and tractor and any implements you may also have. Cheers! Zip~
I sent you an email Zip, let me know if you don’t get it.
Basically you are machining a new seating for the beveled portion of the jet by backing off
and tightening a few times. Yup I have a carb for what could be a 16 hp cast-iron block.
This is going to be a good project
As you know I don't mess with the Briggs stuff much so this is a greatly enjoyed tip to use. Thank you Zippo.
Glad you liked it Bro!!!!😉
This is a great video. I used to love working on Briggs but hated this problem. Thank you for posting this!
Zip just acquired a 7014 Baron shuttle drive with
B&S engine. Same carb. Thanks for the insight. Been watching your vids they're great. I'm hooked.
Glad I heard you say the proper word “Welch Plug”. But ... but .. it’s a freeze out plug. Lol. Got into an argument with a kid about that part.
Great Video and Explanation. I'll try that tomorrow with my customer's Tiller. Thanks! Have a Thumbs Up, sir!
Thanks for the props Leon! Consider subscribing. I've got a ton of small engine tips and tricks on my channel. Cheers! Zip~
Pleased to say after watching this video and the one on sanding the points when you loose spark my 1967 allis chalmers b10 is back up and running again still weeping a little but hey shes running and thats all that I care
Thanks for the great videos
Best video by far! Thank you for making my day easier
Great video👍 Very helpful for my 10hp I/c Briggs I put on my 1978 wheel horse years ago
Very nice job on the picture❤ thanks for the video on Old carburetors first time I've rebuilt one
Your advice fixed my carb!! Thank you.
Great to hear! I'd appreciate it if you would Subscribe to show your gratitude Tony! Cheers! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga Gotcha! I'm all subscribed. Thanks again.
Thanks zippo your alot of help as usual now I just need help on adjusting clutch by the way I know a guy that could be your twin and even sound alike.thanks again brian.
Nice, so I just picked up from a buddy an early 80s Workhorse GT1000, got it pulled apart to clean tank, carb and all the years of neglect and sitting static in my buddy's junkyard, I'm gonna pull this Carb apart tomorrow and wanted a review knew you would have it! Haven't gotten to my AC Bigten yet needs some parts and im broke more or less, got the workhorse for helping him on a couple of projects. But he knew I was lusting for it....
I think it's awesome that you were able to get the GT1000! Wheel Horse is no joke. I used to be a Wheel Horse guy before I discovered Simplicity. Cheers! Zip~
I'm working on a wheel horse c-81 with a 10 hp briggs and stratton ( yes leaky carb included that's what I was trying fix and fixed it once now I need to fix it again)
@@therelentlesscreator3938 I never could get the Briggs to run right, plus clutch nightmare's so I threw a Honda 13hp on mine just added a double pulley and away I went. Use it all the time tons of power, simple engine swap makes the old wheelhorse so much more useable its def no collector piece it earns its pay everyday.
14:00 answers my question, just rebuilt a carb, was thinking maybe I need to sand the srufaces to make sure they're flat, but nope. Good to know.
Just found this video due to the fact that my 1966 B10 all is chalmers has a costant leak. Like what your saying an it's a new f#@$kin carb. Can't wait to try tighten ing the fuel tube. An start it up will text you back when I get to it this week end hopefully this will be the cure Ray Stein
Ray, those new knock off carbs are total junk Chinesium to be honest. You're way better off sourcing or rebuilding an original Briggs carb.
Well I found that out the hard way last week when I brought a 40 dollar one when that didn't work I brought the briggs one for 131 but it leaked. Which is when I found her video that's when I put the guts from the one I brought in the old briggs carb due to break ing off the emulsion tube cause it wasn't in the hole at the top a bent it off but with the one from the China carb in the old carb im anxious to try resetting the tube to stop the seeping while the engine is runnig
@@raystein4457 Good deal. It shouldn't leak at all if properly seated. It's tricky, but once it is sealed up, you're good to go! Cheers! Zip~
Thank you VERY much for all your videos !!! Please keep them coming, I have learned ALOT!!!
I just posted a new carburetor video this week similar to this one that you may enjoy as well Josh. I hope it helps! Cheers!! Zip~
I'm glad I found your video before I bought one but I somehow managed to fix it once then I took it apart again cause I accidentally crushed the needle and it wasn't getting any gas the so I took the needle out and rolled it on a file to get it round again
Many ppl dont know this trick! Good Job showing it off man!
Thanks Brother! I enjoy passing along my information when ever possible. Cheers!! Zip~
very timely, as you know (based on the pics i sent) the throttle linkage on my flo-jet is reversed, and affecting the governor operation. well on closer look, there is an abnormal end play on the throttle shaft as well as evident wear on the shaft hole in the casting.. Remedy will be likely the spare off the '68 landlord. Learned a lot more about the emulsion tube engineering. Thanks Buddy! I just have to wait for this incessant rain to stop before incapacitating the '69 Landlord "Princess" .Then off to fix the thottle cable, and install the lights.
+GrincheyOne There's a whole series I posted on the Governor operation on our old Engines Sir Grinchy. Hope things dry out there soon for you! Zip~
Awesome video mister. I have been working on a "tug pulling" Gilson/Montgomery Ward with what I think is a 16hp Iron block Briggs and guess what, The damn carb leaks. GO figure. Now wishing I would have watched this video after resetting the float level , umpteen times. Thanks for the tips.
Your the best! Wow! I got the exact same carb hops I can save it, tremendous learned so much 😊
Gonna try it. Mine does it on a 10hp, 1964 Allis. You've been rite sooooo far. Now I have Gov issues. The Briggs Manuel you sent me doesnt show the springs location. I need to get NEW springs, the ones that it came with look like they came off an old cot. The hookup points are the question. It's a Landlord Allis Big 10
I have a complete series on governors on the channel Garry. All your questions should be answered within them. As for obtaining parts, see my other reply to your comment on the Governor 2 video. Cheers! Zip~
Amazing video and it took me only 8 years to find it!😀
Zippo many many Thanks!! for this video and your explanation on how to fix the Flo Jet updraft carb. Exactly the fix I needed for the carb on the AC BIG TEN. ;-)
I'm glad this video helped! It's why I make them. Cheers! Zip~
Also glad you mentioned about the area on the carb that weeps fuel just a tiny bit or I would have been scratching my head. lol
Designed to work, not be leak free lol. But they're very versatile and dependable when properly maintained and understood. That's the key...understanding them, and why I have posted so many video's on them. Cheers! Zip~
Johnny's shows the emulsion tube with the rebuild kit but when you get it it's not there. They said they don't include it any more. They didn't charge me for shipping but it was about 15.00 more this was summer of 2016. Insult to injury I had to pay Taxes on it because I'm located i Maryland as they are. Thanks you are the reason I could a rebuild the carburetor. I had bought a new chines that looked good but they had landed the metering valve so hard it stripped off brass and deformed it badly . One day you will have to explain the ignition to me It' an 89 7 hp. horse . By and Thanks
Sorry I was wrong about the name of the parts suppler it was Jack's. The reason they hate toughs carbs is because they are so damn expensive.
Great video, I just started working on my first up draft carb so the pointers you give are well received.
I also have a three part rebuild series on them. I'm glad you found this video helpful Mech! Cheers!! Zip~
Thanks for your help. My generator now runs perfectly.
Hi would you have any videos on how to hook up linkage, springs on a up draft pot medal carb for a wood spliter, bought and nothing hooked i could use your advice, just came with a bag with springs and wires I bought a new Briggs an station carb, and of course nothing included but one gasket a bit of advice for a mountain girl . did watch all your videos on that carb and was helpful. Thanks
P.S. I did subscribe .
Hi Frosty. I'm sorry for the long delay in replying. Email me @ ZippoVarga@gmail.com and include photos so I can help you. There are a number of different throttle configurations used with the Up Draft carbs. Cheers! Zip~
My carb didn't leak initially, but it started leaking after it was 20 years old. Pot metal slowly expands over time (most low-melting metals re-arrange their crystalline structure over time), causing one of the seats to unseat. I independently discovered this (I put water in the fuel bowl of the open carb, and saw weeping around the bottom of the emulsion tube). So if your engine starts getting cantankerous to start, it could be due to flooding of the lower air channel because of this leakage.
That's exactly what happens and why this "fix" has helped many to get rid of the dreaded flo jet weaps. lol Cheers! Zip~
"there goes that high pitched voice again" then you decide to continue to speak like that hahaha I love the humor.. another great and informative video! Thanks!
I have a series on Governor operation on a variety of engines. Check those out to see if your questions are answered. If not, then we can see if we can sort out your issues. Just a side note, on one video I was incorrect in the sequence/process. It goes as follows, Loosen nut to governor arm, open throttle butterfly fully, rotate governor pin clockwise until it stops, pull governor arm down until it stops then lock down the retaining nut on the governor arm. Hope this helps and thanks for the Kudos! I try to throw in a little humor here and there. Cheers! Zip~
well ill be damned ... had that trouble years and years id turn the gas off or just let it drip this has went on over 25 years on some of my old briggs.. pretty smart fix
Thanks Jay! I learned of this trick a few years ago and so far (knock on wood) I've always had good luck. Cheers! Zip~
Great information! Thanks a lot. I'm sure this will probably solve my gas leak problem.
Hey Zippo love your down to earth comments and vast knowledge on these machines. I just brought a new carb for my Sears SS15 and it leaked slightly there also and now I know why, THANKS MAN!!! one other thing, my carb has the choke on the wrong side and with what you just explained in this vid I will attempt to swap it around with out screwing it up. Also the air filter stud and joke cable clamp screw appear to be different thread pitch?, still looking into that. Anyway goos vids and you are the first one I have evr subbed to, keep up the good work.
Briggs and Stratton 8hp model 190412 I could sure use a picture of the bowl gasket.
Mine was destroyed removing the bowl!
And I got the leak!
Rebuild kit for the carb is #291736 and gasket alone is #27034. Just search "Briggs" plus the number and you'll find plenty. Zip~
Just solved my problem today!!! Thanks!!!
you have given me some good info.thank you.larryp
"There goes that high pitch voice again!" This guy must be my twin.
awesome video...goina bolt out and try seating that emulsifier the proper way as you describe.
Hey Zippo, than you for this. I have a 1969 Gilson Garden Mark Squire 12 tractor. This has recently became an issue. My carburetor is not new. When I got the tractor the other day the throttle cable tand choke cables were frozen. I was able to get the throttle cable unfrozen. The choke control cable broke. I cannot find this part anywhere. Where and how do you get replacement parts? Also after reinstalling my throttle cable the throttle cable will not stay in "fast" it pulls back to about mid-throttle. Is there an easy fix fr this issue?
I am having trouble finding an engine number for my 1966 Moto mower Briggs 6hp . I need the coil , can you supply a coil number? Coil has been tested and is not good. Thanks for this tip Sir!
Without numbers, there's little I can help you with unfortunately. Zip~
Thanks zip I like these carbs but I've been fighting this problem for years
+Dave Ackerman Hope this helps stop the dreaded leaking they're plagued with for you Dave! Zip~
Hello, I finally found this video on my exact carburetor for my air compressor. Thanks for the great video. I'm unable to find a video on this carburetor of how to adjust. I can only find videos that have the valve at the bottom also. Mine is exactly like this...it only has the high speed and low speed as you showed here. Can you please advise how to correctly adjust the fuel mixture? Pretty please? Thanks for the extra info about that cap at the end too! I didn't know what I was doing until I found this:)
I've got carb adjustment videos on my channel Renee. I'm glad this video found its way to you and I hope you're able to get things dialed in. The "standard" setting is, Two turns out of the lower main metering screw and 1 1/2 turns out on the idle screw that faces the air cleaner base. Be very careful to NOT tighten the main metering screw...just gently turn it down until you feel resistance where you're pretty sure it's seated. Over tighten it and you'll create a ridge on the metering needle and then you're in for a fight to get the carb adjustment right. Again, Videos on my channel. Good Luck! Zip~
You are AWESOME Thank you for this upload
You're Very Welcome!! Zip~
was just about to tear into mine for a second time or most likely buy another one from ebay to solve this. definately doing this tomorrow.
HEY I put a link to your video on my sunday shop video My new carb is leaking
Smart creative kids get that way from being around smart creative parents. I never saw that layering technique before. (In Photoshop yes, but not real world)
Dad- I’m glad you know those carbs and I appreciate you taking the time to pass it along.
Daughter- I thought that was a photo at first glance! Keep making the world a prettier place, I think you have that something that most people can only dream about. Best Father’s Day present is an art scholarship 😬
My Daughter is extraordinarily artistic. Although she has a full time job at a factory, she's quickly becoming known for her photography skills and is booked in her studio. She got a little of Dad's DNA for sure! Cheers John, and thanks much for making my day with your awesome comment. Cheers! Zip~
Great video, i have an old generator with this carb. The carb was completely rusted out on the inside. I bought the exact carb in this video. The problem is I need to reverse the high speed butterfly because the orientation of the connection / pull for the throttle on the new carb forces the engine to run wide open. It looks like I can just pull the pin on the adjustment side, take the screw out of the butterfly and reverse the shaft running through the carb and reinstall the butterfly and pin. Will that work? Will the engine run right? Thanks Sean
It sounds like you purchased a Chinesium knock off instead of an OEM Briggs & Stratton carburetor. The old saying, you get what you pay for holds true with them. An OEM Briggs carburetor would cost between $175 and $300 depending on the model. My guess is, you paid around 30-40 bucks. All I can say is best of luck getting it to run right. I have heard people say they've gotten them to stop leaking and run correctly. And, you should be able to reorient the shaft and butterfly plate. I wish you good luck Sean. Please keep me posted. Zip~
That’s exactly what it probably is a $30 chicom carb. I found the generator in the trash. I have been bored during the Covid quarantine so I am playing with this generator to keep busy. I don’t need it. For 30 bucks and a beer I have something to do in the garage. I am going to reorient the butterfly see what happens.
Great video. I have gas leaking from around the top of the fiber washer above the high speed jet is that because of the same problem you just explained here? Thanks
Tighten the metering screw a little. The gasket just isn't sealing like it should. Zip~
Yes, going to make that special screw diver and do that today. Thanks!
Thank you for the information I am having this issue.
You're very welcome Antonio! Zip~
I have the same updraft carb part number 392587 from Briggs but the throttle shaft is set to ten o’clock closed to the linkage can pull it down to open…also there’s a threaded hole on one side as well as the one that holds the air filter bolt in…I got everything buttoned up and it’s running great, but when I kill it, it seems to have a little gas/oil mix near the weep hole or the hole for the air filter bolt/screw whatever…it starts and runs fine with this happening. Now I did add some oil and it smoked for a while but now it runs smooth and no smoke, just this tiny discharge of oil/gas…what do you recommend? I got the main jet on there tight as well as the metering ones and it’s tuned great…
Hi Will. That little hole is called the Weep Hole. And for good reason....when you shut the engine off, the engine doesn't stop rotating instantly, it winds down, and as it does so, fuel is being pulled up in pulses as the engine comes to a stop. That unburned fuel has to go somewhere, so it gravity feeds back down the throat of the carburetor to the weep hole. It's perfectly normal and why the weep hole exists. It's usually a few drops and the reason it appears oily or darker than fuel is just sediment it picks up along the way to the weep hole. Reducing the engine to slow idle before shutting off the engine will reduce the amount of fuel that drains back down. Zip~
That high pitched break in your voice Zippo might mean your hitting puberty!🤣🤣
Thanks for the instruction. Extremely helpful.
Best of luck! If yo have continued issues, please read the pinned comment for additional information and another option. Cheers!! Zip~
Very informative brother thank you
Thank you for your videos. I have learned a lot and enjoy solving my own problems. I have a 1988 Little Giant Leaf blower with an 8HP B&S engine with the same type of carburetor you show. It runs well - once you get it started, but I have to use starter fluid to start it cold or if it sits a while. Any ideas as to what adjustments I should make to get it to start off the pull?
Check for weak spark. Often, in these older engines, the carburetors
aren't the problem. But it's the first thing people look to. Go to a
hotter spark plug for starters. Meaning, the distance between the
insulator and threads is larger (or Taller) than the stock CJ8 type
plug. Also, no need to install an internally resisted plug like an RJ or
the like. Any spark plug with an "R" in the ID is resisted. Only the
newer electronic ignition engines benefit from these types of spark
plugs. If your starting issue continues after installing a hotter spark
plug, then I would clean the points (under the flywheel) and re-gap the
coil. If, after this is completed, you may have low compression if hard
starting persists. Then, it would mean a cylinder honing, re-ringing and
lapping the valves. Cheers! Zip~ p.s. You can check the compression,
but if the engine is an "easy spin", then there is a compression release
on starting that will give you false numbers. So to get an accurate
reading, you must rotate the engine over anti-clockwise
(counterclockwise).
ZippoVarga Thank you. I will check that out. I also noticed today when I started it up that here was gas at the air intake. After you start it, the gas disappears and it will start without quick start. I think there must be a leak somewhere causing this and it is suffocating the engine at startup.
What a great trick with that emulsion tube! Question for ya, I notice the intake gasket on my engine at the intake elbow was wet with gas. Is it running to rich? Any ideas?
I just got one of these Briggs and Stratton engines with a slightly different carb where the air intake is a separate part. I experience the same issue of it leaking gas. The bolt hole underneath, I don't know what it's called, the one to the left of the weep hole if your looking at it with the emulsion tube on your left. The bolt screws in but doesn't go all the way in, instead it keeps turning. I'm guessing either something is stripped. Have you seen this? Do you think I should get a new bolt or new carb or both?
I'm currently battling a carburetor issue. I believe it has to do with spring tension on the governor.. I have a few questions for you to help me diagnose my issue if you don't mind
Very good something simple thing give you a major problem
A really great picture. well done.
Wish I would have found this video when I rebuilt my carb on my simplicity 3410s
Thank you for your videos. Very helpful!
I'm glad they help John! Zip~
Zippo - This is an informative video and may have helped me fix my leaky updraft carburetor but it is not entirely correct.
I suspect that you are right that the carb can leak as a result of a poor seating of the upper, small bevel seating surface of the emulsion tube against the pot metal seat where the tube enters the carburetor throat. But, there is no seating surface for the lower, larger bevel on the emulsion tube. That does nothing.
The only path for fuel to get to the carburetor throat from the float bowl is through the upper small sealing area or through the emulsion tube itself.
If you look at your carb you will see a passageway coming straight down from the bottom of the fuel bowl to the area between the emulsion tube and the adjustment needle. That area is always flooded with fuel which supplies the lower end of the emulsion tube. As you pointed out, there are a couple of small holes in the emulsion tube directly below the small bevel seal which allow fuel to flood directly up through the emulsion tube into the cavity below the seal at all times. It is normal to have fuel in there which will not leak out unless it gets past that upper bevel.
Zippo, thanks for your quick reply as to rebuild kits for my Simplicity 7116 16hp B&S carb. I watched this video and it is excellent. When I went to do this, gas was streaming out of the carb. Is there no gas shut off on these engines? IF gas was coming out of the weep hole and leaking from the top as you explain does that mean a rebuild kit with some float work is necessary?
I give advice with a general assumption that some things need not be mentioned. However...you need to disconnect the fuel line and remove the carburetor to perform any in depth maintenance on the carburetor. When you do disassemble the carburetor, you may find sediment build up in the bowl and possibly a float that has developed a hole. Until you have it apart and have accessed the damage, I can't say what your carburetor needs or doesn't need. Reference the three part carburetor rebuild videos while disassembling the carburetor to help prevent doing damage to it. As for a fuel shut off...that's the job of the float in the carburetor. You should purchase a fuel shut off to place on the fuel line and make a habit of always shutting the fuel off and allowing the engine to run out of gas. This will keep the carburetor in tip top shape with todays harmful ethanol laced fuels, which cause irreversible damage to the metals and gaskets. If you're not mechanically inclined, you may want to enlist the help of a friend or family member who has good mechanical skills and understanding of how things work to help guide you along this repair process. Zip~
Hey zippo I have been trying to find vids about adjusting what I think is a rich condition on my 16 hp gilson with the up flow carb. I think iam on the right track with the lower mixture screew, but just wondering if there are any vids that I cant find about adjusting lean/rich.
One guy says just use a good screwdriver. Definitely not the entire story. Found this just in time.
Is that carb for the 16hp cast iron cylinder? If so could you give me the part number and where you purchased it. Thanks, Paul
With the numbers off your engine, go to the Briggs and Stratton web sight, download your IPL (Individual Parts Manual) and then enter the part or parts you need in Google and you'll have all the resources at your finger tips and you'll have done it your self AND have all of the other 300+ part numbers at your finger tips instead of me giving you a single number and where to buy it. Now you're self sufficient and I've taught you how to do it. Teachers don't give answers to questions, they give you direction on how to find the answers. You're welcome and good luck! Zip~
Zippo,
Thank you for this excellent video. I made a stubby screwdriver to your specs and it worked well. I have my 7116 running well. Yes, the owner had mucked up the threads for the tube and idle screw. But with the proper screwdriver I got the tube in and "seated" well. No leaks and it runs. Thank you. Now, I have a snowblower and do you really run a belt from the blower hitch all the way back to the rear PTO or am I missing something? Any idea how long that belt is? Thank you again.
Charlie
Go to Simpletractors.com, register and there are hundreds of collectors there who can help you. I don't collect the later model tractors or their implements, so I can't be of assistance. Zip~
So if it is leaking out of the weep hole (center bottom hole) it is resolved by the emulsion tube?
Correct....the weep hole is the lowest point and where the fuel travels to. Seat the emulsion tube as shown and the weeping should stop. If not, re-seat until it does stop leaking. Being careful to not damage the delicate brass driver slot. Zip~
and what is to do when this carburetor is also leaking out of the throttle shaft / throttle wave on the upper carb body ? I don't understand why it can be leaking out of the throttle shaft from the throttle wave. I believe that the float needle valve does not close properly and the carburator overflows. What did you think about this ?
You've got it. The needle isn't seating. Zip~
Very good video thank you
Great painting, great vid.
That helps a bunch!
Whats the part #?
How do you order the parts from Briggs? I just got a Gravely 800 Series with a 16hp Briggs and Stratton.
Do not buy it from brig's cause it's like $200+ on brig's and stratton website. ( Look up the engine model number with Briggs and Stratton carburetor after the number and you should find some)
Glad I seen this one .Great info ! Thx
No problem 👍
Thank you, same problem, awesome