Novarossi C-12 R3 - Full Nitro Engine Build - Crank Mods, Building Tips, Bearings and More
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2023
- This is Advanced RC Adventures (A2RC)
- This is a channel where we investigate, explore, build, explain, upgrade and advance Nitro RCs to another level
- Come start a new adventure with me
#NitroIsTheBestGo
Vid made with Clipchamp (audio is not mine and is from the Free Clipchamp options) - Авто та транспорт
Great Nitro Work in this video dude!! This is a very SPECIAL great nitro engine!!
I appreciate you watchn’ Hybrid
- As you know, keeping these vintage engines running is a labor of love 💜
Thanks for the comment 🔥💪🏻
totally agree dude! yes! I think I should have one just like this engine in some nitro too I bought a while back. I think it's in a Mugen MTX-3@@a2rc
Thanks would be awesome and would love to see it some time@@hybrid32494
The whole engine is nice, but that is one especially good looking carb!
💯% Agree 🩷 Rossi knew how to make them right
- Thanks for watchn’
Very Cool Brother !
Can't wait to see it ripn !
Thanks Texas. I’ll be watching your Rossi on the RRR shortly 🔥💪🏻
Thanks for the video I was thinking about porting and how to go about it only yesterday so was pleasantly surprised! Thanks A’RC
I appreciate you Watchn" SOS 🔥💪
Sick 🔥 🔥 🔥 🔥
Thanks for watchn' 💜
Subscribed! Let's make nitro great again! 👍🏻
Thanks for the Sub and for Watchn’ Boosted 🩷
- Lots more Adventures still to come
#NitroIsTheBestGo
Love the channel !
I really appreciate that Christian 🩷
- Thanks for watchn’
Great video and channel with amazing content! Can you please make some video about HPI Nitro Star 12R XS engine? It would be great if you make some videos about Tamiya nitro engines as well! Many thanks!!!
Thanks for reaching out and for the kind words 🩷
- It’s funny you mention the 12R XS because that will be on the Vol 3 engine overview list. I was trying to decide on which engines to put on the up coming Vol 2 (I considered the 12R XS a lot)
- I appreciate you and everyone for watchn’ 💯
nice build and well explained. What Pipe do you recommend for this engine? I also have a Tamiya/NR cx-12. Thank you
Thanks for Watchn' and for the Great question (sorry for the delay)! These engines respond well to a full range of pipe types. Most of the vintage Dynamite dual chamber pipes work well for both bottom and top end power. It just depend on what you are looking to do. Are you looking for a similar era pipe or currently made?
- If I had to choose, I would pick either a mid or top end RPM pipe for this particular engine. It already has a good amount of low end torque so, putting a mid-top end pipe could help the engine perform through its full range. A good option would be the 6609 pipe and head combo (shown in the Thumbnail). Hope that helps a bit
@@a2rc Bro - thank you for the awesome response. I will dig into this more now and may have some more questions. Most triumphant!
@@rpcclo I’m glad it helped a bit and always feel free to ask questions. I’m happy to help where I can 🩷
Hello
I have a novarossi m12, with wich parts I can replace the carb and the crankshaft
I really love to rebuild that engine
Hi TechGames. Thanks for watchn' and for the question.
- You may need to look for Mugen parts numbers to start (if you want something exact) but, a lot of the parts can overlap from normal Novarossi parts.
- The M12/MT12 had 2 carbs and 2 cranks to choose from. 15600,15602 (cranks) and 10604M, 10601M (Carbs)
I hope that helps a bit 💜 I think it is great that you want to try and keep the vintage engine going
@@a2rc yes, thanks for the answer really help me and give me a place start, great channel
@@a2rc in the case i want yo realce note with exact parts (they Hard yo find) wich is your recommendation?
Sorry for the questions
@@TECHGAMESWORLD8 Most all the parts are going to be either hard to find ,expensive or both. The C-12 is one of the more popular/common engines in that family.
- The crank and carb parts may not be exact but, they should be close enough to work (you will have to double check bearing sizes and replace, refresh the carb, etc).
- My point is, you may be able to find a donor parts engine to help get your going. It’s worth a shot.
Most all of us do not rebuild these engine because it is cheap and easy to find the parts, rather it is to help keep the history alive. We have a lot of fun doing it also.
Enjoy the process. Even if it take a little while to find the parts.
Thanks again for reaching out
Hey a2rc, i got same still very fresh low millege with original novarossi sleeve c12 but my problem sleeve is seized to the block so much i can't get it out, ( all common things tried) did your old sleeve come out easilly ? how far does the sleeve go into block ? im thinking if i can't get it out i will have to cut engine block to get sleeve out. cause crankshaft have rust i need to polish out, basically because of seized sleeve i can't get engine running. btw is there any manual for novarossi c12 ?
@@lukassslukasss1864 Hi Lukas 🩷 First wanted to let you know I appreciate you watchn’ and reaching out
- Every engine is different on fitment and condition. The best recommendation I can give is to use heat. Make sure all plastic and o-rings have been removed beforehand. A lot of times, the old oil/fuel acts as a “cement” that holds some parts in the block. Also, if the clearance/fitment is tight, it makes it hard too.
- It sounds as if you have disassemble engines before so, I’m hoping that may give you a better/different starting point. Have you used heat yet ?
Let me know and thanks for the message
@@a2rc Yes its isn't my first nitro engine i've dissasembled, i have over 25 vintage nitros, but sometimes i come across engines like my c12, sleeve stuck beyond removing it and not suprised, somehow i have bad luck with novarossies .12 engines, its my second .12 novarossi engine i own and has same problem as first one really seized sleeve.
@@lukassslukasss1864 So far in the years of me doing this, there has only be 2 engines that I couldn’t physically get all the way apart. One was a 40+ year old Enya that looked like it had been sitting under salt water for years. The other was a Rossi 12 (not a C12) but I guess similar. It was a HPI branded Rossi
- The Rossi was a New engine that I gave up on tearing down completely to check it out. I stoped because I didn’t want to hurt the sleeve, bearings, etc . My conclusion is that, there must be a large burr (near the transfer port area) that I cant see, that is holding the sleeve in. The sleeve can move a little bit but even with a lot of heat, would not pop out. Again, this was a brand new engine
That engine is still healthy and running but, I won’t attempt to break it down again until something really bad happens lol. I unfortunately know that, I will have to destroy the engine to find out what the issue is. Then I know I won’t be able to rebuild it but, hopefully at least understand what was going on with it
That is not a normal circumstance and I kind of doubt that you have the same issue but, my point is that, odd ball stuff can happen to keep us from getting the engine completely apart.
- My suggestion is for you to still heat up the block (may be more than normal) and keep trying to push out the sleeve from the bottom with a wood push stick. Do heat cycles on the block, if needed. May be use some penetrating oil or just normal oil around the sleeve when it is hot. Sometime that helps to break up the chemical bond from the old fuel.
- Bearings are going to be trash after so plan on replacing them (most all used engines should get new bearings anyway). Let me know if you are able to get the engine part please.
As for a manual/set-up sheet. It really depends on what c12 variant you have. There are a lot of them, more than I would have ever expected. Sometimes you can use an Hpi manual and parts but, you have to be carful, to make sure you have the correct parts. Things may look the same but, part numbers do not cross over and may not work from engine to engine.
- I hope that helps a little bit more. Let me know
@@a2rc I finally got my sleeve out with my home made extraction tool, acetone helped too, if you want i can try get out your sleeve with my tool without any harm to the sleeve walls or piston, let me know, succes rate really high. I couldn't get my sleeve out cause someone drove engine with really rich ricin oil percentage in fuel.
I found few parts in germany for c12 engine but not with your mentioned parts numbers in the video, so im not sure if they fit.
@@lukassslukasss1864 I’m glad you got your sleeve out.
- Be care with Acetone, not only for health reasons but, it attacks some aluminum surfaces. It should be safe around brass and chrome but, make sure your o-rings and seals stay away from it (you may be aware of all this already)
Heat easily break downs/melts away the bond the old oils have between the sleeve and blocks. It’s is normally the easiest way to help disassemble the engine parts. I’ve take apart countless engines over the years. Some extremely bad with success, no special tools required. Heat is also a universal bearing puller too. All just things to consider.
- Is your homemade sleeve puller one of the “plastic pullers” everyone seeks to be making these days (or something different)? Those designs are not too bad for new/lightly used engines but, on some engine that have ran and sat for 15+ year, a different method may been needed (heat, etc). There are some race engine companies that are starting to make aluminum versions of that tool type (for .21s). Note, they are designed for new/currently used engine sleeves.
What part numbers did you find for your engine? Do you happen to know which C-12 version you have?
I can do some digging for you as well to help out.
- All these vintage engine are worth saving! It’s awesome you are working toward getting your going again 🩷
Where did you find the bearings for this engine?
Thanks for the great question Jon 💯
- There are a number of vendors you can get bearings from. Without knowing exactly where you are in the world, eBay is a great place to find bearings from. Just make sure they come from a good dealer/seller and they are appropriate for nitro engines
- Keep me updated on what you end up finding and thanks for watchn’ 🩷
@@a2rc I am located in the US. Can you tell me where you found the front bearing with the blue rubber seals.
@@jonpye8655 That particular one is a 607RS/607-2RSC 7x19x6mm Ceramic bearing from FastEddy Bearings
- ACER and ProTek 607RS Ceramic bearings are equivalent, if you are needing options
I hope that helps out a bit. 💜What engine are you rebuilding?