Hello Todd. I decided to try your method but mine is with a 55 size airplane engine I increased the time to 52 seconds and dropped it in refrigerated water. It worked perfect. Now I need to watch all your other videos. Thanks
I have done this to a few engines myself and it works , well it did for me , I just do a little at a time and your car or truck is running with good compression again in no time , stay safe mate ...
Wow great info you going to have to try this on that engine I'm sending you my kids we're sick all weekend so I didn't make it to the post office but will be shipping it tomorrow
I’d never thought of using a hose clamp, but I’m going to have to give it a go!! damn obvious and it’s a great idea I’d always used a 1” thick pressing plate and use it like a rolling pin on the edge of the bench while heating but I must add I will only do this on an engine that has a tight sleeve in the crankcase
I have mentioned the sleeve-in-crankcase fit a few times. IMO this is one of the most important factors in regard to engine life/compression. A loose fit allows the sleeve to expand more, leading to early compression loss.
Great idea id still rather buy a new sleeve though because once it heats back up while running its just gonna relax the metal and loose compression again then it just becomes no fun just buy 3 or 4 sleeves and pistons n have them on hand thats what the hobbies all about right always gotta have extra parts i always buy parts in fours so idont ever have to go n get them when i need them i have enough parts to build 3 or 4 rc cars if i really wanted to for all my rc cars i love stocking parts i hoard them parts
Just wondering if you'd tried quenching the sleeve in oil instead of water? I used to do that with steel drill bits after sharpening them to harden the tips. Might be worth trying to see if the re pinch lasts any longer. Nice video though and food for thought.
Todd, I do it the exact same way except I heated up longer and then I tighten the hose clamp while it's hot as tight as I can go and then I drop it in the water
@@NitroTalkwithTodd I haven’t done it yet no cause the engine still seems to rip like crazy. I did check the pinch and it wasn’t completely gone but almost When I do it I will be very very careful I DO Not want to wreck this engine it’s a super awesome runner. I do have one question is this one of the motors I need to run extra castor in
@@NitroTalkwithTodd I haven’t done it yet no cause the engine still seems to rip like crazy. I did check the pinch and it wasn’t completely gone but almost When I do it I will be very very careful I DO Not want to wreck this engine it’s a super awesome runner. I do have one question is this one of the motors I need to run extra castor in
The correct way to quick-disposable fix this would be to knurl the piston skirt, not pinch the sleeve. Impossible to knurl the piston skirt, so we used a solid machined tapered center support that went into the liner, then we used a arbor press to force another pressing piece machined out and made of epoxied oak to ram overtop and hug the liner and squeeze it back to shape against the solid center support we machined for that specific cylinder.. A couple try's and we had a EVEN piston to liner fit again. Good for gallons again.
You can't. I would wager that the process probably leaves the sleeve less round than it found it. On the other hand, I do this to engines that will no longer run due to lack of compression. And more often than not, I get those engines running good again. Maybe for a gallon, maybe two. If a more precise method is available, I say go for it. But we're talking about worn out engines here. Imo this method works good enough to make it worthwhile. Thanks for watching!
I've had sleeves ware u repinch them they look great after u run a tank or two there them right back to no compression I've experiment with multiple methods of how to replace them ND wat to do after repinch just run them run them a few tanks rich or straight to break in tanks it's just luck base if it works in my opinion
I have also noticed that once pinched they don't last nearly as long as similar pinch when new. I contribute it to the metal weakening from the heating cycles, and is exacerbated by a loose sleeve-in-crankcase fit. But, the way I look at it, a home pinch is essentially free so even if you can only get a few quarts out of an engine it's better than nothing.
@@NitroTalkwithTodd Could a small strip of metal shim cut from a flat shim sheet be used to snug up the fit between the sleeve and crankcase? Thinnest metal shim stock I've seen is 0.001" (0.0254mm).
One of the easier ways to recognize low compression is when an runs ok right when you start it (cold) but gets worse the hotter it gets. Stalling, erratic idle, weak bottom end can point to low compression.
Could someone please elaborate on why it´s bad if the piston reaches that high in the sleeve, so that I understand why the sleeve has to be pinched? The piston´s travel is limited by the conrod, so, the piston would never enter the top-sleeve-area anyways...Is it all about getting it at TDC exactly as tight as needed, in order to not let any combustion-force escape throught the piston´s edge ??? (because these pistons have no piston-rings?) if this area is narrower/pinched, then one gets slightly higher compression (since this area then contains a smaller volume)... But other than that, I can think of nothing, that it´d be beneficial for. In the worst case, if a too big area is pinched, the piston´s top-end could get stuck in the lower edge of the too-far-pinched area (while the piston expands under heat and with time, during a run)... So, big risk for some questionable benefit...
Nitro engines use a tapered sleeve instead of piston rings. When the engine is new, the fit is very tight at the top of the stroke. This makes a better seal to make proper compression. Two things happen as an engine is being used. The aluminum piston wears down, and the brass sleeve expands. Over time both of these add up to a looser piston/sleeve fit, lowering compression and eventually resulting in a poorly running engine. The piston being able to be easily pushed past the top of it's stroke is merely an indication, a gauge used to tell the state of the piston/sleeve fit. If it pushes all the way up, it's too loose to make proper compression when running. When it comes to the risk/benefit of pinching, this is something that is done to worn out engines to try and get a bit more life out of them. You don't do this to a perfectly fine running engine just because the piston seems a bit loose. Yes, you can over pinch, and end up with an engine that doesn't run at all, but that's what you are supposed to be starting with. If the pinch fails, you wasted nothing but your time. But if it succeeds(and with practice you can get pretty good at pinching) you have a good running engine again for a period of time. Thanks for watching, and for your question/comment.
@@NitroTalkwithTodd That was a very detailed explanation, thank you ! I knew so little about it, that I could never have imagined, that the piston is of aluminum, and the sleeve out of brass, I though, they are both of steel, like in 2stroke-bike-engines. But if no piston-rings are possible, one has to go for the alu/brass-combination, cause this combination replaces the need for piston-rings alltogether... Thanks again !
@@NitroTalkwithTodd THE FACT THAT YOU REPLIED TELLS ME THIS IS LEGIT.. THANK YOU SO MUCH.. I JUST GOT INTO NITRO 2 WEEKS AGO. oops, i had all caps on .. thanks again
Depends, but as someone else mentioned, they certainly don't last like when new. I have found that they usually average 1/2 gallon to 2 gallons out of a pinch.
To try and get some more life(usually 1-2 gallons) out of an engine that no longer runs properly due to lack of compression(worn out piston/sleeve) If you don't want to spend the money on a new piston/sleeve set, or one isn't available, this method can be used. Thanks for watching.
“When something’s broke, you fix it.”
Slowly we’re collectively forgetting how important this truly is. Thanks for posting this!
Hello Todd. I decided to try your method but mine is with a 55 size airplane engine I increased the time to 52 seconds and dropped it in refrigerated water. It worked perfect. Now I need to watch all your other videos. Thanks
@@greenman407 Glad to hear, thanks for watching!
I have done this to a few engines myself and it works , well it did for me , I just do a little at a time and your car or truck is running with good compression again in no time , stay safe mate ...
Thank you for this video. I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge
Thanks todd this really helps especially with those expensive sleeves out there if you're on a budget 👍👍
excellent information. all your i've seen so far are extremely informative and adds a lot of knowledge.
Wow great info you going to have to try this on that engine I'm sending you my kids we're sick all weekend so I didn't make it to the post office but will be shipping it tomorrow
No worries, I certainly plan to make a video going over the engine and possibly bringing it back to life..
I’d never thought of using a hose clamp, but I’m going to have to give it a go!! damn obvious and it’s a great idea I’d always used a 1” thick pressing plate and use it like a rolling pin on the edge of the bench while heating but I must add I will only do this on an engine that has a tight sleeve in the crankcase
I have mentioned the sleeve-in-crankcase fit a few times. IMO this is one of the most important factors in regard to engine life/compression. A loose fit allows the sleeve to expand more, leading to early compression loss.
Well done tod I really did learn something from you today thanks much bro RC nitro every time
Great idea very well said.See you on next one.✌
Great idea id still rather buy a new sleeve though because once it heats back up while running its just gonna relax the metal and loose compression again then it just becomes no fun just buy 3 or 4 sleeves and pistons n have them on hand thats what the hobbies all about right always gotta have extra parts i always buy parts in fours so idont ever have to go n get them when i need them i have enough parts to build 3 or 4 rc cars if i really wanted to for all my rc cars i love stocking parts i hoard them parts
Thanks so much for posting this! I’m going to try this.
Just wondering if you'd tried quenching the sleeve in oil instead of water? I used to do that with steel drill bits after sharpening them to harden the tips. Might be worth trying to see if the re pinch lasts any longer. Nice video though and food for thought.
It's an interesting idea, I guess it depends on if hot brass responds to oil in the same way as steel. Worth looking into.
Great. Thanks for letting me know.
Todd, I do it the exact same way except I heated up longer and then I tighten the hose clamp while it's hot as tight as I can go and then I drop it in the water
Ohhhhhhhhhh if you did this then I am to 👊😎
Do you do it with the piston in the sleeve or out? I've seen it done both ways, and it sounds like your method might work better with the piston in.
@@NitroTalkwithTodd
I haven’t done it yet no cause the engine still seems to rip like crazy.
I did check the pinch and it wasn’t completely gone but almost
When I do it I will be very very careful I DO Not want to wreck this engine it’s a super awesome runner.
I do have one question is this one of the motors I need to run extra castor in
@@NitroTalkwithTodd
I haven’t done it yet no cause the engine still seems to rip like crazy.
I did check the pinch and it wasn’t completely gone but almost
When I do it I will be very very careful I DO Not want to wreck this engine it’s a super awesome runner.
I do have one question is this one of the motors I need to run extra castor in
I need to do a few engines
The correct way to quick-disposable fix this would be to knurl the piston skirt, not pinch the sleeve. Impossible to knurl the piston skirt, so we used a solid machined tapered center support that went into the liner, then we used a arbor press to force another pressing piece machined out and made of epoxied oak to ram overtop and hug the liner and squeeze it back to shape against the solid center support we machined for that specific cylinder.. A couple try's and we had a EVEN piston to liner fit again. Good for gallons again.
Nice video and thanks for the info
awesome information,thanks for sharing brother
Excellent!
Learn something new everyday
Awesome idea
Great video Tood. You don't imagine how much engine I have to pinch( about 67 engines).
Goodness gracious how on earth did you accumulate that many?
Thanks! Dremel and a heat gun!❤😮😊
How can you assure the pinch is perfectly round with this method? Do you check with dial indicators and such or near enough is ok for this ?
Thanks
You can't. I would wager that the process probably leaves the sleeve less round than it found it.
On the other hand, I do this to engines that will no longer run due to lack of compression. And more often than not, I get those engines running good again. Maybe for a gallon, maybe two.
If a more precise method is available, I say go for it. But we're talking about worn out engines here. Imo this method works good enough to make it worthwhile. Thanks for watching!
This is my second time doing it first time it worked on my own car now im doing my buddy's but heated to long 😢
Good stuff
I've had sleeves ware u repinch them they look great after u run a tank or two there them right back to no compression I've experiment with multiple methods of how to replace them ND wat to do after repinch just run them run them a few tanks rich or straight to break in tanks it's just luck base if it works in my opinion
I have also noticed that once pinched they don't last nearly as long as similar pinch when new. I contribute it to the metal weakening from the heating cycles, and is exacerbated by a loose sleeve-in-crankcase fit. But, the way I look at it, a home pinch is essentially free so even if you can only get a few quarts out of an engine it's better than nothing.
@@NitroTalkwithTodd Could a small strip of metal shim cut from a flat shim sheet be used to snug up the fit between the sleeve and crankcase? Thinnest metal shim stock I've seen is 0.001" (0.0254mm).
@@TimLe-rz6ru That's way too thick. A normal re pinch is only around 0.0003".
If it’s too tight after can you heat it up again and relieve some of the tightness?
I'm theory, but what are you stretching with? Maybe heat it up and push the piston towards the top? Certainly worth a shot. Thanks for watching!
Hi like your video look ive over pinched my sleeve 😢is the any way to open it
Heat it back up then work the piston through the sleeve a few times and it should open back up slightly
I have a stuck piston is this a bad thing any suggestions would be greatly appreciated appreciated
Stuck after doing a pinch?
What are the symptoms of low compression?
Mine runs but doesn't idle.
One of the easier ways to recognize low compression is when an runs ok right when you start it (cold) but gets worse the hotter it gets.
Stalling, erratic idle, weak bottom end can point to low compression.
Could someone please elaborate on why it´s bad if the piston reaches that high in the sleeve, so that I understand why the sleeve has to be pinched? The piston´s travel is limited by the conrod, so, the piston would never enter the top-sleeve-area anyways...Is it all about getting it at TDC exactly as tight as needed, in order to not let any combustion-force escape throught the piston´s edge ??? (because these pistons have no piston-rings?)
if this area is narrower/pinched, then one gets slightly higher compression (since this area then contains a smaller volume)... But other than that, I can think of nothing, that it´d be beneficial for. In the worst case, if a too big area is pinched, the piston´s top-end could get stuck in the lower edge of the too-far-pinched area (while the piston expands under heat and with time, during a run)... So, big risk for some questionable benefit...
Nitro engines use a tapered sleeve instead of piston rings. When the engine is new, the fit is very tight at the top of the stroke. This makes a better seal to make proper compression. Two things happen as an engine is being used. The aluminum piston wears down, and the brass sleeve expands. Over time both of these add up to a looser piston/sleeve fit, lowering compression and eventually resulting in a poorly running engine.
The piston being able to be easily pushed past the top of it's stroke is merely an indication, a gauge used to tell the state of the piston/sleeve fit. If it pushes all the way up, it's too loose to make proper compression when running.
When it comes to the risk/benefit of pinching, this is something that is done to worn out engines to try and get a bit more life out of them. You don't do this to a perfectly fine running engine just because the piston seems a bit loose.
Yes, you can over pinch, and end up with an engine that doesn't run at all, but that's what you are supposed to be starting with.
If the pinch fails, you wasted nothing but your time. But if it succeeds(and with practice you can get pretty good at pinching) you have a good running engine again for a period of time. Thanks for watching, and for your question/comment.
@@NitroTalkwithTodd That was a very detailed explanation, thank you ! I knew so little about it, that I could never have imagined, that the piston is of aluminum, and the sleeve out of brass, I though, they are both of steel, like in 2stroke-bike-engines. But if no piston-rings are possible, one has to go for the alu/brass-combination, cause this combination replaces the need for piston-rings alltogether... Thanks again !
Can I do this with my Picco 12 RC speed.
I do not want to wreck it as it’s almost pooched and there’s no parts available for it that I can find.
I have pinched .12 engines, but I use an even smaller hose clamp. Take extra care on engines that are not junk, over-pinching is bad news
I love this but how long does it last..?
Of course it varies engine to engine, but I find that on average I'll get 1/2 to 2 gallons out of a pinch. Thanks for watching.
@@NitroTalkwithTodd THE FACT THAT YOU REPLIED TELLS ME THIS IS LEGIT.. THANK YOU SO MUCH.. I JUST GOT INTO NITRO 2 WEEKS AGO. oops, i had all caps on .. thanks again
I may try this when i finally fry a
.12 or my .15 AE rtr pull start engine...
Lol the old clamp method…. How long will that engine hold that pinch before redoing?
Depends, but as someone else mentioned, they certainly don't last like when new. I have found that they usually average 1/2 gallon to 2 gallons out of a pinch.
I agree on your comparison to electric haha
Why not use infra..temperature Gauge?
It's not a certain temperature that I'm going for, although it probably could be done that way as well.
New to the nitro world what's the point of this?
To try and get some more life(usually 1-2 gallons) out of an engine that no longer runs properly due to lack of compression(worn out piston/sleeve)
If you don't want to spend the money on a new piston/sleeve set, or one isn't available, this method can be used. Thanks for watching.
GOOD AND TIGHT AT THE TOP OF THE STROKE :D
Brilliant 👏 🎉I love to wrench
Excellent ❤️❤️❤️