So I've watched several videos now and I have to say it's refreshing to see hand tools being used so skillfully, producing such amazing pieces, all to the rhythm of some great tunes. Truly art in motion. I really got a lot out of watching you... definitely a reminder (to me) to slow down, to be deliberate and most importantly to be patient. Also reminded me why I was drawn to working with wood in the first place... it was the first piece that I carved by hand, from a stump of koa that I got from maui on my honeymoon. literally took 2 years to finish and loved every minute. made a great anniversary present... wifey loves it... still sits on the mantle. funny thing is, ive made countless pieces since but none by hand. only just realizing this... anyway, appreciate the videos very much, thank you. Mike
As I slowly move to hand tools and away from power tools I'm appreciating your videos. Over this past year I've sold my table saw, jointer and router table. Watching you resaw tonight has me thinking about getting rid of my thickness planer. Thanks for the example and inspiration.
I feel like power tools just add this extra degree of separation from your work... Energy from the power plant shapes your work instead of energy from your own body otherwise.
I love watching your videos as I plan to build my own wood shop and start working without powertools. It's some kind of meditation and I learn so much from you! Thanks for sharing your skills! Greets from Germany.
Sweet to see someone actually making dust and useful material with hand tools. Blade on the frame saw looks like it pulls its weight. Thanks for sharing :)
Thanks Tom. I have two Bad Axe saws already. I was looking at 3 to 4 inch wide blades and 36" plus lengths from another application. But I see with the addition of your kerf saw, the tracking with the narrow blade does not seem to be an issue. BTW I have your book and have enjoyed it very much.
Loved it. Great video and it's nice to find woodworking video that doesn't have "unplugged" music (not that there's anything wrong with that). And also a fellow long hair. I'm subscribing!
I would be in therapy half way through the first one. Splendid work. It's not easy getting the heart and mind in the same zipcode...looks like you figured it out.
TheJimsock, thanks for the comments ! Having the two handed grip and the wide 'rowing' movement, makes the process almost easy. Especially in straight grained wood that's only 6-in. wide like this holly was. Boards in the 12-in. range can get a little hairy, but these weren't bad at all. All the best and thanks again~
Tom Fidgen Thanks so much for responding. I think I could manage the physical part of it....managing the blade on a seemingly unwieldy tool and keeping it on line over such a length would stress me out. Especially working from opposite directions and hitting it right or at least close enough to correct with a plane I miss it now and again with a power saw. It's getting all the skills and techniques to come together for a result is what would send me off to test my insurance policy at a therapist. It's one of the reasons I don't golf. At least in the shop, I can only hurt myself taking out the frustration....if you see me on the golf course, run for your life. Thanks for the vids. I really like them.........the music too. Nice respite from all the techno on UA-cam.
You sir are a genius! This is the most original idea regarding resawing I have seen anywhere! Is it inadvisable to make multiple kerfs across the stock and just rip them all, or do you really need to flatten and re/kerf each?
Joshua, thanks for the comments and question. You could certainly kerf the entire thickness of the plank and resaw- I prefer flattening one face first- this gives me a veneer that only has to be dressed on one side.
Tom, I love watching your work. It I also love your choice of music. I wish you’d add an iTunes link in the description to the music you choose for each video. Wish I knew what this was...
Thanks adam- this is a song I wrote and recorded a few years ago. Unfortunately it isn't available on iTunes but I think there's apps that will enable you to rip the audio from this video-; ). all the best~
Tom Fidgen, if this is your music, then it parallels the quality of your woodworking and you should consider putting it on iTunes. After all, I’d pay for it!
+Rave Bret thanks for the question. Yes, that's always a possibility as wood tends to have a 'mind' of it's own! But with this holly I was lucky and was able to use it all. Watch through the entire series and you'll see how. all the best~
At first I thought this task would be hard but the kerfing plane kind speeds up this work. I don’t have a roubos frame saw but I do have a ryoba so that could potentially work on boards as wide as 6 to 8 inches. You’re making me want to experiment and try reassign by hand. I’ll have to make a kerfing plane first. Your videos are inspiring me (as new’ish woodworker) to not buy power tools and go hand tools completely.
Amazing skills! But here's a friendly suggestion: It would be nice if each episode began with a still photo of the finished project. That way I could see where you're going. Hope this is helpful! Please keep up the amazing work!
After seeing this video I have to build myself a frame saw. I live in Spain and can't find a decent rip saw, the cheap disposable rip saws available have really uneven set and are a nightmare to try and keep on line when ripping thick stock. After reading about frame saws in old texts it occurred to me that they must create less friction and your video seems to prove this. Thanks for sharing. BTW: What's the TPI on your blade?
They are easy to find second hand, just need to resharpen which is straightforward for large rip teeth - look on E bay or tool auctions on Saleroom (eg. David Stanley).
I just watched the video. It is not easier if the workpiece is tilted? I am French and I saw two different videos (misters Paul Sellers and Mathieu David) use this technique. Sorry if my English is bad 😊😊. I loved the kerf.
nayrb11111- thanks for the interest. It's called a Kerfing Plane and is a tool I came up with a few years ago specifically for resawing. You'll find more information on it in my book The Unplugged Woodshop, as well as here on my website: www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/category/the-unplugged-woodshop-2/the-kerfing-plane-and-frame-saw all the best!
That is awesome! Do you think this would be possible le with a 16 inch wide piece? Or is that way to much? I know the saw would have to be a bit longer
Wow. Good Lord, I am blown away with this video. I am a first time viewer today, yet already I am sensing you made your own hand planes and saw. The large saw is simply Beautiful. In my 60 plus years on earth.. I have never seen a saw like this. So nice to see hand tools. Is there a industry name for that Godzilla sized saw? Am I correct to assume you made the tools? Just curious. I am impressed beyond normal words. The video is nicely done as well, nice lighting, good Non Annoying music, just enjoyed watching.
Thanks Lee- very much appreciated. Yes, I made the tools and you can to. Check out book, The Unplugged Woodshop for details: theunpluggedwoodshop.myshopify.com/collections/books/products/the-unplugged-woodshop-book thanks for the comments and interest, all the best~
Tom, I love the videos and look forward to each one. I was wondering if it would be possible to reverse the blade in the resaw and have it cut on the pull stroke Japanese style instead of on the push stroke? Wondering if it would be anyless taxing physically? Keep the vids coming.
I have a plow plane(veritas) but even with the narrowest size blade 1/8 it is still wider than my saw blade. Do you recommend making a kerfing plane or keep at it with the plow. The kerfing plane is well within my skill set so any recommendation will usefull and be put to use. On the sub of the kerfing plane how deep of a cut do I need to shoot for. Do you teach classes?
Hi Tom, thanks for the video. I really enjoyed it. Where can I get a frame saw like the one you used? Tradional woodworker doesn't seem to have it, but it does have other frame saws.
Bad Wolf Media, thanks for the interest. I made the frame saw myself. You'll find full instructions, cut list, illustrations and detailed plans in my book- The Unplugged Woodshop . Here's a link:www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/books
I can see you're using the remaining side of your stock as a flat reference surface for your Kerfing plane, do you need to re-flatten this surface after every resaw cut? or the cut is already so clean that planning the remaining surface is not needed? thanks.
Good eye. Yes, I re-flatten the surface of the thick stock after each veneer is sawn. It's easier to do it this way as the thick stock is easier to hold and once the veneer is sawn, one side is already smooth- all the best~
Tom, question for you, what size of a smoothing plane do you use? Is it a number 7 plane. If so, I am ordering one for my shop. Like your wood projets. Keep up the great work.
Aaron, thanks for the comments and question. My 'Smoothing' plane is a No. 4 as well as a wooden Krenov smoother. A No. 7 is a Jointing plane. The numbering system plane makers use refers to the length of the sole- a No. 1 is the smallest, No. 2 a little longer and wider, No. 3 a small smoother, No. 4 a traditional smoothing plane- ( this is the one you'll find in most flea markets etc..) a No. 5 is a Jack, a No. 6 is a Fore plane, and a No. 7 & 8 are Jointing planes. There were also 4 1/2 and 5 1/2 which means they were the same length, just a little wider. Don't worry too much about the numbering system- if you want to flatten LONG boards, get a 7 or 8- ( a jointing plane ) the plane I use in most of my videos is a No. 5 Jack plane. Hope that helps- all the best
Hmm, there i am with all my powertools... Anyway, i noticed that the resawblade is set to cut on the push. Is this how it is supposed to be? If I had not seen your vid I would have set it to cut on the pull. You obviously know what you are doing, I was just wondering. Is the first kerf you make to guide the resaw blade? Is it the same thickness? Thanks for posting this beautiful way of woodworking! Cheers, Norman
Meulmeester- thanks for the comments. I use my Frame Saw like all of my Western Style saws- that's what I'm used to using and it feels comfortable for me. That said, I don't see why you wouldn't be able to use a Frame Saw as a pull saw if that's what you're used to or prefer. You'll find more information about this here on my website- www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/the-sawyers-song.html all the best !
Hi Tom, wonderful work. I am in the process of making my own frame saw. As woodworkers who use only hand tools we use our hands a lot to feel the wood, do you find you are getting a lot of vibration when resawing? During the video the wood looked to be very high in the vice, albeit for obvious reasons.
MrTraindriver1970- thanks for the comments and questions- not too much vibration at all. I find the tail vise holds the stock much better than the face vise. all the best-
Tom, I love your work. Whenever I feel like I'm pumping out too much stock cabinetry in my shop for customers I pick up your book and zen out a bit. Is there somewhere that I can purchase this music track, I'm really liking it?
Sorry for the amateur question here, but I am, well... an amateur...haha. What is the benefit of flipping and turning the piece as opposed to just ripping it all the way down in one shot. Obviously when you get to the very bottom i understand that you need to flip it since you can't cut through the vice, but you flipped it and turned it multiple times well before you got to the bottom? Is that just so you ensure a straighter cut?? I would think it would be straighter doing it in one shot so you don't have to join/meet up your cuts... but then again, that's why i'm the amateur and you're the expert, haha. Thanks in advance, Joe
Hey Joe, you answered your own question- yes- it's to make for a straighter cut. These tools were still fairly new to me at this point so I was worried that my cut may drift on the opposite side of the work piece...turning it every so often keeps it on track. As these surfaces get hand planed after wards, going from one side and then the other doesn't really affect the final piece. hope that helps and thanks for the question-
Joe Grosso He also seems to be a big tall dude with long arms working a really long saw. Cutting into the vice would be one problem but ergonomics comes into play as well, if he'd keep slicing away at it if he's out of good position either for body mechanics or just simple observation the saw will eventually wander. It's also why he seems to either be pushing the saw either up hill or down hill more than half the time. It's better position to let your tool do the work but also keeps you on track by keeping more in the kerf but also more of the blade in the piece being cut keeping it more stable.
thanks for the question. They both are...depending on the time of year. I'm currently in my basement shop here in my home in Toronto for the school year, and spend the summers in my home on Cape Breton Island, where this shop is. cheers~
Fantastic work! Two questions...I have all kinds of wooden and metal planes but have never come across the kerfing plane you use here - did you make it ? Also, did you make that big ass frame saw? That would take forever with my Japanese rip saw.
Thanks for the comments and question- yes to both, I made both the Kerfing Plane and the 'big ass' Frame Saw-; ) You'll find detailed plans and building instruction for both of these tools in my book, The Unplugged Woodshop, available here: theunpluggedwoodshop.myshopify.com/collections/books/products/the-unplugged-woodshop-book?variant=18830721729 and we also offer complete hardware kits here if you're interested: theunpluggedwoodshop.myshopify.com/collections/hand-tool-emporium/products/kerfing-plane-frame-saw-hardware-kit?variant=21546829377 all the best~
Rob K, thanks for the question. The holly is indeed really smooth; it's a nice tight grained wood that takes a hand plane really nicely. I plane one face of the stock to begin, then rip off a veneer- then I plane the face, and then another veneer. That continues all the way through the stock and I'm left with veneer that is already smooth on one face. The back sides are dressed with the help of a planing board- you'll see that process in the next video of this series. all the best-
They're a 5 ppi Rip tooth. Thanks for the interest. You'll find more info in my book, and on the Bad Axe Tool Works website. Mark Harrell made my blades for me and offers them for sale. All the best-
thank you for responding i just finished ripping a 11' wide x 20 inch l piece of mahogany with a regular crosscut handsaw anything make it easier would rather do it this way i like the traditonal wood workers way .
Hey Tom, great video, just subscribed. Where do you find these tools? I look on ebay and they sometimes seem to cost a fortune. And what was the song in this video? Edit: Nvm, I watched your other videos.
Thanks Andrew- glad you found where the tools came from-; ) as for the song- it's a piece I wrote and recorded a couple of summers ago. Drop me an email if you'd like an mp3. of it- all the best, Tom
I named it a Kerfing plane, as it was designed to cut a saw kerf around the work piece prior to resawing it. You’ll find detailed plans and instructions in my book: the Unplugged Woodshop. It’s available on Amazon and other online retailers. Cheers-
Call me crazy, but the Roubo looks a bit short to me. I have seen other versions with a 4’ length absolutely speed through ripping. The mass, length and sharpness should make it a very comfortable cut.
Amazing work and thank you for sharing. Makes me want to sell all my power tools and go the handtool route. For someone who is considering going unplugged are there any power tools you would keep? Say a jointer/planer or bandsaw? Thanks again.
+ccd58 Thanks for the comments and question. For someone using a blend of hand and power, the tools you mention would be the most beneficial. Planer/jointer and band saw. all the best~
+Slap Stick Great question...the answer is yes, I have made these types of cuts with a standard hand saw but its very difficult work. This method is much more reliable, as well as easier with two hands and more accurate.
hope you dont mind me asking but what is the large square saw with blade down the middle called, where can i get one or is it homemade? Also any new projects coming to video soon?
Hey Pete. thanks for the question. It's called a Frame Saw and yes, I made it. You can find full details in my book, the Unplugged Woodshop available here: theunpluggedwoodshop.myshopify.com/collections/books/products/the-unplugged-woodshop-book All the best~
Thanks for the question Ben. Is it possible? Absolutely. But the Kerfing Plane makes it easier and reliable. Remember, woodworkers used to saw veneer by hand for thousands of years before machines came along. The Kerfing Plane wasn't part of that equation. I came up with this idea in 2010 and have been using it ever since. I've taught hundreds of students since that time and have made dozens of Kerfing Planes with my students. It works. Bottom line. Hope that helps- all the best
thanks tom, very helpful, I'm going to be starting a very ambitious project soon, some complex acoustic diffusers and plan on making them all by hand, there will be a lot of thin pieces that need to be laminated together. I just need to make a saw similar to the one in your video and may make a kerfing plane as well, then I can begin.
we use this technique all the time with students at the Unplugged Woodshop. We run a week long course where students make their own Kerfing Plane and Frame Saw- the following week they resaw their own veneer to make a parquetry panel. These tools work amazingly well for accurate veneer with hand tools. best of luck with it-
Vance, thanks for the question. I do smooth the surface between each veneer- this is easier to do while the stock is still thick. You'll find more information about the process on my website- www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/ cheers!
people do this? When he pulled out that rip saw contraption it was like the sudden appearance of a Gatling gun. Bad analogy I know because the practice depicted here shows so much respect for the trees. But it startled me. I'm stunned. So glad these things still happen. Sorry about the photo of my son that might show up here, btw.
Thanks Mike, you would think it may be difficult, but having the wide, two handed grip keeps it fairly easy to saw. A super sharp blade helps too! all the best, Tom
Thanks Marc- I don't honesty remember, but it was probably a couple of hours at most. The tools really do the work-; ) I just move them around the wood.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
It seems like the kerf plane is particularly valuable to keep your saw on track when re-sawing.
That's exactly the point. 100%
Cheers~
So I've watched several videos now and I have to say it's refreshing to see hand tools being used so skillfully, producing such amazing pieces, all to the rhythm of some great tunes. Truly art in motion. I really got a lot out of watching you... definitely a reminder (to me) to slow down, to be deliberate and most importantly to be patient. Also reminded me why I was drawn to working with wood in the first place... it was the first piece that I carved by hand, from a stump of koa that I got from maui on my honeymoon. literally took 2 years to finish and loved every minute. made a great anniversary present... wifey loves it... still sits on the mantle. funny thing is, ive made countless pieces since but none by hand. only just realizing this... anyway, appreciate the videos very much, thank you.
Mike
mzelke Thanks Mike ! great comments- much appreciation..
As I slowly move to hand tools and away from power tools I'm appreciating your videos. Over this past year I've sold my table saw, jointer and router table. Watching you resaw tonight has me thinking about getting rid of my thickness planer. Thanks for the example and inspiration.
Milling lumber is a young man's game.
I feel like power tools just add this extra degree of separation from your work...
Energy from the power plant shapes your work instead of energy from your own body otherwise.
That line cutting tool is amazing. Impressive to see. Great work.
It really is amazing, I think it's called a kerf plane
Yeah it's so fun using all your energy on the sawing. Really great for the shoulders and rotator cuffs.
It's very peaceful listening to your music and watching you make little ones out of big ones! thank you Tom.
I love watching your videos as I plan to build my own wood shop and start working without powertools. It's some kind of meditation and I learn so much from you! Thanks for sharing your skills! Greets from Germany.
Many thanks-
Nice job and workout with the bonus of feeling the pride in making making your saw. Congratulations
Thanks !
Sweet to see someone actually making dust and useful material with hand tools. Blade on the frame saw looks like it pulls its weight. Thanks for sharing :)
that is one great looking kerf plane man,i got to see it being made,nice job.
Love the music. Never heard anything like it before. Thanks.
Great work Tom , good to see the 2 handmade saws in action , i never even knew they existed until i watched you`re video`s.
Thanks
Steve
Your skills and techniques are as rhythmic as the music in your video.
fine job back to the basics without power tools brings great joy and peace to the soul share the gift
+kenneth smith Thanks Kenneth !
This is amazing... never seen anything like that and you work it out so perfectly.... what a master one you are!
Thanks !
Like that music! Like your work! Keep going,the music,the wood working makes me feel incouraged! Thanks!
Tom, great video produced by a master teacher!
Thanks Tom. I have two Bad Axe saws already. I was looking at 3 to 4 inch wide blades and 36" plus lengths from another application. But I see with the addition of your kerf saw, the tracking with the narrow blade does not seem to be an issue. BTW I have your book and have enjoyed it very much.
Inspiring... Now I know which two tools I need to make next.
Love the Kerf Plane.Great skill !
Very nice! I bet that last one was the one you were looking for.
I love that frame saw. I have your book and am looking forward to making one.
Loved it. Great video and it's nice to find woodworking video that doesn't have "unplugged" music (not that there's anything wrong with that). And also a fellow long hair.
I'm subscribing!
thanks Andy !
I love your work man! I wish I could come watch you and learn one on one.
I would be in therapy half way through the first one.
Splendid work. It's not easy getting the heart and mind in the same zipcode...looks like you figured it out.
TheJimsock,
thanks for the comments ! Having the two handed grip and the wide 'rowing' movement, makes the process almost easy. Especially in straight grained wood that's only 6-in. wide like this holly was. Boards in the 12-in. range can get a little hairy, but these weren't bad at all.
All the best and thanks again~
Tom Fidgen Thanks so much for responding. I think I could manage the physical part of it....managing the blade on a seemingly unwieldy tool and keeping it on line over such a length would stress me out. Especially working from opposite directions and hitting it right or at least close enough to correct with a plane
I miss it now and again with a power saw.
It's getting all the skills and techniques to come together for a result is what would send me off to test my insurance policy at a therapist.
It's one of the reasons I don't golf. At least in the shop, I can only hurt myself taking out the frustration....if you see me on the golf course, run for your life.
Thanks for the vids. I really like them.........the music too. Nice respite from all the techno on UA-cam.
I can't even imagine the patience it takes to do this by hand.
Unbelievable , you have amazing skills.
Hi Tom,
Beautiful video.
it was seen "continuous use" the two "new" saws.
You sir are a genius! This is the most original idea regarding resawing I have seen anywhere! Is it inadvisable to make multiple kerfs across the stock and just rip them all, or do you really need to flatten and re/kerf each?
Joshua, thanks for the comments and question. You could certainly kerf the entire thickness of the plank and resaw- I prefer flattening one face first- this gives me a veneer that only has to be dressed on one side.
Tom, I love watching your work. It I also love your choice of music. I wish you’d add an iTunes link in the description to the music you choose for each video. Wish I knew what this was...
Thanks adam- this is a song I wrote and recorded a few years ago. Unfortunately it isn't available on iTunes but I think there's apps that will enable you to rip the audio from this video-; ). all the best~
Tom Fidgen, if this is your music, then it parallels the quality of your woodworking and you should consider putting it on iTunes. After all, I’d pay for it!
Wow. Amazing video.
I can't believe it!!!!! You are really great.....
I can't cut with my electric saw
Congratulation! !!!!!
You Sir, have The Gift !!
wow.. .gratzz. whether there is a possibility that the wood becomes curved because of natural factor??
+Rave Bret thanks for the question. Yes, that's always a possibility as wood tends to have a 'mind' of it's own! But with this holly I was lucky and was able to use it all. Watch through the entire series and you'll see how. all the best~
+Tom Fidgen Thank you.. i will.
There's something very Zen bout the whole thing.
At first I thought this task would be hard but the kerfing plane kind speeds up this work. I don’t have a roubos frame saw but I do have a ryoba so that could potentially work on boards as wide as 6 to 8 inches. You’re making me want to experiment and try reassign by hand. I’ll have to make a kerfing plane first. Your videos are inspiring me (as new’ish woodworker) to not buy power tools and go hand tools completely.
Thanks Brian!
And you wrote that song? Jeez. Wonderful wonderful.
I would love to see a where is it now video.
Beautiful!
👍🐯👍 Thanks for sharing you work and skills. I now have a new approach to rip cuts. Thanks again.
Love your “circle template “ gonna have to get me a few of those 😁🍷
so the saw follows the guide cuts....brilliant
Beautiful work.....an inspiration.
I didn’t even think about a kerf plane. Duh, my resaws were horrible! Thanks for the lessons
If you made a kerf plane with spacers, multiple blades and made vertical adjustments for the blades could you rough out molding edges with it?
Nice work !
Like the background music ? What is it ?
Shazam finds nothing :-(
Amazing skills! But here's a friendly suggestion: It would be nice if each episode began with a still photo of the finished project. That way I could see where you're going. Hope this is helpful! Please keep up the amazing work!
thanks for the suggestion- ; )
After seeing this video I have to build myself a frame saw. I live in Spain and can't find a decent rip saw, the cheap disposable rip saws available have really uneven set and are a nightmare to try and keep on line when ripping thick stock. After reading about frame saws in old texts it occurred to me that they must create less friction and your video seems to prove this.
Thanks for sharing.
BTW: What's the TPI on your blade?
thanks Robert- 5 tpi with zero set. all the best~
They are easy to find second hand, just need to resharpen which is straightforward for large rip teeth - look on E bay or tool auctions on Saleroom (eg. David Stanley).
I just watched the video. It is not easier if the workpiece is tilted? I am French and I saw two different videos (misters Paul Sellers and Mathieu David) use this technique. Sorry if my English is bad 😊😊. I loved the kerf.
Bonjour Daniel-
both ways will work...in this scale I prefer holding the work square.
Merci beaucoup!
all the best~
+Tom Fidgen thanks for your advice
Wonderful! Perfect and wonderful.
what is the hand plane looking saw that you make the kirf in the wood before you resaw thx keep up the great work
nayrb11111- thanks for the interest. It's called a Kerfing Plane and is a tool I came up with a few years ago specifically for resawing. You'll find more information on it in my book The Unplugged Woodshop, as well as here on my website:
www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/category/the-unplugged-woodshop-2/the-kerfing-plane-and-frame-saw
all the best!
That is awesome! Do you think this would be possible le with a 16 inch wide piece? Or is that way to much? I know the saw would have to be a bit longer
je sais que sa demmande beaucoup de temps ,combien il t'as fallut ? excellent travail .
Merci beaucoup Reda-
Environ 4 heures au total. Donner ou prendre un peu- ; )
Impressive job
thanks!
Wow. Good Lord, I am blown away with this video. I am a first time viewer today, yet already I am sensing you made your own hand planes and saw. The large saw is simply Beautiful. In my 60 plus years on earth.. I have never seen a saw like this. So nice to see hand tools. Is there a industry name for that Godzilla sized saw? Am I correct to assume you made the tools? Just curious. I am impressed beyond normal words. The video is nicely done as well, nice lighting, good Non Annoying music, just enjoyed watching.
Thanks Lee-
very much appreciated. Yes, I made the tools and you can to. Check out book, The Unplugged Woodshop for details: theunpluggedwoodshop.myshopify.com/collections/books/products/the-unplugged-woodshop-book
thanks for the comments and interest,
all the best~
Tom, I love the videos and look forward to each one. I was wondering if it would be possible to reverse the blade in the resaw and have it cut on the pull stroke Japanese style instead of on the push stroke? Wondering if it would be anyless taxing physically? Keep the vids coming.
vanislescotty, great question. While I haven't tried, you may be able to experiment with a pull stroke.
thanks for the comments and questions!
I have a plow plane(veritas) but even with the narrowest size blade 1/8 it is still wider than my saw blade. Do you recommend making a kerfing plane or keep at it with the plow. The kerfing plane is well within my skill set so any recommendation will usefull and be put to use.
On the sub of the kerfing plane how deep of a cut do I need to shoot for. Do you teach classes?
That’s it... I need a frame saw
After you resaw a side, do you plan the board again before you use the kerfing plane again? Great video, awesome skills, I hope be as good one day.
I did not know this method. Great
great video bravo
please 2:20 wood dimension and thickness ???x???x????
and thank you
excuse my english
Awesome video. I love the open windows in the background. Also, is the boat one of your projects?
thanks Steve- yeah, that was the first wooden boat I built around 2004.
I've built 8 boats over the past 10 years ranging from 8' to 16' in length.
Hi Tom, thanks for the video. I really enjoyed it. Where can I get a frame saw like the one you used? Tradional woodworker doesn't seem to have it, but it does have other frame saws.
Bad Wolf Media, thanks for the interest. I made the frame saw myself. You'll find full instructions, cut list, illustrations and detailed plans in my book- The Unplugged Woodshop . Here's a link:www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/books
I can see you're using the remaining side of your stock as a flat reference surface for your Kerfing plane, do you need to re-flatten this surface after every resaw cut? or the cut is already so clean that planning the remaining surface is not needed? thanks.
Good eye.
Yes, I re-flatten the surface of the thick stock after each veneer is sawn. It's easier to do it this way as the thick stock is easier to hold and once the veneer is sawn, one side is already smooth-
all the best~
it's absolutely fantastic...
Tom, question for you, what size of a smoothing plane do you use? Is it a number 7 plane. If so, I am ordering one for my shop. Like your wood projets. Keep up the great work.
Aaron,
thanks for the comments and question. My 'Smoothing' plane is a No. 4 as well as a wooden Krenov smoother. A No. 7 is a Jointing plane.
The numbering system plane makers use refers to the length of the sole-
a No. 1 is the smallest, No. 2 a little longer and wider, No. 3 a small smoother, No. 4 a traditional smoothing plane- ( this is the one you'll find in most flea markets etc..) a No. 5 is a Jack, a No. 6 is a Fore plane, and a No. 7 & 8 are Jointing planes.
There were also 4 1/2 and 5 1/2 which means they were the same length, just a little wider.
Don't worry too much about the numbering system- if you want to flatten LONG boards, get a 7 or 8- ( a jointing plane )
the plane I use in most of my videos is a No. 5 Jack plane.
Hope that helps-
all the best
Tom,
When watching your video, I see that you use a long plane. I would like to know what size is the one you use for your long boards. Thank you
The long plane I used is a Veritas Bevel Up Jointer. If you Google that you'll find it. All the best~
Thanks Tom
Hmm, there i am with all my powertools...
Anyway, i noticed that the resawblade is set to cut on the push.
Is this how it is supposed to be? If I had not seen your vid I would have set it to cut on the pull.
You obviously know what you are doing, I was just wondering.
Is the first kerf you make to guide the resaw blade? Is it the same thickness?
Thanks for posting this beautiful way of woodworking!
Cheers,
Norman
Meulmeester- thanks for the comments. I use my Frame Saw like all of my Western Style saws- that's what I'm used to using and it feels comfortable for me.
That said, I don't see why you wouldn't be able to use a Frame Saw as a pull saw if that's what you're used to or prefer.
You'll find more information about this here on my website- www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/the-sawyers-song.html
all the best !
Wow!! EXTRAordinary!! I promise I'll never complain to use a screw driver. :)
Great Teknik ,,, thankyou for inspiring me
Is that a certain style of bench? If so whats the name? Any chance you have a video on making one? I like the setup
Thanks for the interest. It's a European style work bench with face and shoulder vise...I purchased it about 15 years ago.
@@theUnpluggedWoodshop thanks for the info! Gorgeous bench still for 15 years worth of work being done on it.
Hi Tom, wonderful work. I am in the process of making my own frame saw. As woodworkers who use only hand tools we use our hands a lot to feel the wood, do you find you are getting a lot of vibration when resawing? During the video the wood looked to be very high in the vice, albeit for obvious reasons.
MrTraindriver1970- thanks for the comments and questions- not too much vibration at all. I find the tail vise holds the stock much better than the face vise.
all the best-
Wow.....how many push ups do you think the resawing is equivalent to?
50guitar- ; )
thanks for the question.
great analogy...but it's really not too difficult.
cheers!
Respect bro, nice work!
The man's a beast.
Tom, I love your work. Whenever I feel like I'm pumping out too much stock cabinetry in my shop for customers I pick up your book and zen out a bit.
Is there somewhere that I can purchase this music track, I'm really liking it?
Have you tried this with Black Walnut (5')?
Sorry for the amateur question here, but I am, well... an amateur...haha. What is the benefit of flipping and turning the piece as opposed to just ripping it all the way down in one shot. Obviously when you get to the very bottom i understand that you need to flip it since you can't cut through the vice, but you flipped it and turned it multiple times well before you got to the bottom? Is that just so you ensure a straighter cut?? I would think it would be straighter doing it in one shot so you don't have to join/meet up your cuts... but then again, that's why i'm the amateur and you're the expert, haha.
Thanks in advance,
Joe
Hey Joe,
you answered your own question- yes- it's to make for a straighter cut. These tools were still fairly new to me at this point so I was worried that my cut may drift on the opposite side of the work piece...turning it every so often keeps it on track. As these surfaces get hand planed after wards, going from one side and then the other doesn't really affect the final piece.
hope that helps and thanks for the question-
Joe Grosso
He also seems to be a big tall dude with long arms working a really long saw.
Cutting into the vice would be one problem but ergonomics comes into play as well, if he'd keep slicing away at it if he's out of good position either for body mechanics or just simple observation the saw will eventually wander.
It's also why he seems to either be pushing the saw either up hill or down hill more than half the time.
It's better position to let your tool do the work but also keeps you on track by keeping more in the kerf but also more of the blade in the piece being cut keeping it more stable.
Hi Tom, thanks for the great video! Which shop is your current one? The one in this video or the basement?
thanks for the question. They both are...depending on the time of year.
I'm currently in my basement shop here in my home in Toronto for the school year, and spend the summers in my home on Cape Breton Island, where this shop is.
cheers~
Fantastic work! Two questions...I have all kinds of wooden and metal planes but have never come across the kerfing plane you use here - did you make it ? Also, did you make that big ass frame saw? That would take forever with my Japanese rip saw.
Thanks for the comments and question- yes to both, I made both the Kerfing Plane and the 'big ass' Frame Saw-; )
You'll find detailed plans and building instruction for both of these tools in my book, The Unplugged Woodshop, available here: theunpluggedwoodshop.myshopify.com/collections/books/products/the-unplugged-woodshop-book?variant=18830721729
and we also offer complete hardware kits here if you're interested: theunpluggedwoodshop.myshopify.com/collections/hand-tool-emporium/products/kerfing-plane-frame-saw-hardware-kit?variant=21546829377
all the best~
Gracias por este video excelente video me ayudo muchisimo. Good job
Great work bro..😊😊😊
Hi Tom,
Great video as usual, the boards look VERY smooth and straight after using the frame saw. Do they require much planing afterwards?
Rob K,
thanks for the question. The holly is indeed really smooth; it's a nice tight grained wood that takes a hand plane really nicely. I plane one face of the stock to begin, then rip off a veneer- then I plane the face, and then another veneer. That continues all the way through the stock and I'm left with veneer that is already smooth on one face. The back sides are dressed with the help of a planing board- you'll see that process in the next video of this series.
all the best-
also what type of teeth are in the saw blade
They're a 5 ppi Rip tooth. Thanks for the interest. You'll find more info in my book, and on the Bad Axe Tool Works website. Mark Harrell made my blades for me and offers them for sale. All the best-
thank you for responding i just finished ripping a 11' wide x 20 inch l piece of mahogany with a regular crosscut handsaw anything make it easier would rather do it this way i like the traditonal wood workers way .
Hey Tom, great video, just subscribed. Where do you find these tools? I look on ebay and they sometimes seem to cost a fortune. And what was the song in this video?
Edit: Nvm, I watched your other videos.
Thanks Andrew- glad you found where the tools came from-; )
as for the song- it's a piece I wrote and recorded a couple of summers ago.
Drop me an email if you'd like an mp3. of it-
all the best,
Tom
did you build this saw or did you purchase it. i would like to know where to get that blade i could make one for myself thank you
What is the saw called you use at 2:45?
I named it a Kerfing plane, as it was designed to cut a saw kerf around the work piece prior to resawing it. You’ll find detailed plans and instructions in my book: the Unplugged Woodshop. It’s available on Amazon and other online retailers. Cheers-
Call me crazy, but the Roubo looks a bit short to me. I have seen other versions with a 4’ length absolutely speed through ripping. The mass, length and sharpness should make it a very comfortable cut.
Amazing work and thank you for sharing. Makes me want to sell all my power tools and go the handtool route. For someone who is considering going unplugged are there any power tools you would keep? Say a jointer/planer or bandsaw? Thanks again.
+ccd58 Thanks for the comments and question. For someone using a blend of hand and power, the tools you mention would be the most beneficial. Planer/jointer and band saw. all the best~
Would you ever make cuts like that with a regular rip saw or is it too risky with alignment (cutting smooth and straight)?
+Slap Stick Great question...the answer is yes, I have made these types of cuts with a standard hand saw but its very difficult work. This method is much more reliable, as well as easier with two hands and more accurate.
Tom Fidgen Thanks Tom. I'll have to get one...or make it.
hope you dont mind me asking but what is the large square saw with blade down the middle called, where can i get one or is it homemade?
Also any new projects coming to video soon?
Hey Pete. thanks for the question. It's called a Frame Saw and yes, I made it. You can find full details in my book, the Unplugged Woodshop available here: theunpluggedwoodshop.myshopify.com/collections/books/products/the-unplugged-woodshop-book
All the best~
Tom Fidgen Thanks for the swift reply. I shall be putting it on my christmas list. Cheers fella.
Tom what length/width of blade are you using in the frame saw?
Neil
Neilyeag- thanks for the question. The blade is 25 1/4-in. long and 2-in. wide filed at 5ppi. Available here: www.badaxetoolworks.com/kpfs
Cheers!
do you think this would be possible without the kerfing plane?
Thanks for the question Ben.
Is it possible?
Absolutely.
But the Kerfing Plane makes it easier and reliable.
Remember, woodworkers used to saw veneer by hand for thousands of years before machines came along. The Kerfing Plane wasn't part of that equation.
I came up with this idea in 2010 and have been using it ever since. I've taught hundreds of students since that time and have made dozens of Kerfing Planes with my students. It works. Bottom line.
Hope that helps-
all the best
thanks tom, very helpful, I'm going to be starting a very ambitious project soon, some
complex acoustic diffusers and plan on making them all by hand, there will be a lot of thin pieces that need to be laminated together. I just need to make a saw similar to the one in your video and may make a kerfing plane as well, then I can begin.
How thin do you think one can reliably go using this method?
1/8" no problem...anything less gets a little tricky but smaller pieces I've gone down to 1/16"...
Thanks! I'm think I might try to saw veneer this way. I'm guessing I'll need to increase the TPI and a small kerf seems useful...
we use this technique all the time with students at the Unplugged Woodshop. We run a week long course where students make their own Kerfing Plane and Frame Saw- the following week they resaw their own veneer to make a parquetry panel. These tools work amazingly well for accurate veneer with hand tools. best of luck with it-
Thanks for the video. Did you smooth the board after each slice of veneer?
Vance, thanks for the question.
I do smooth the surface between each veneer- this is easier to do while the stock is still thick.
You'll find more information about the process on my website- www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/
cheers!
people do this? When he pulled out that rip saw contraption it was like the sudden appearance of a Gatling gun. Bad analogy I know because the practice depicted here shows so much respect for the trees. But it startled me. I'm stunned. So glad these things still happen. Sorry about the photo of my son that might show up here, btw.
David Thomson Thanks David~
Amazing!
Very cool to watch. Looks like a half way decent workout. How did the arms feel afterwards?
Thanks Mike,
you would think it may be difficult, but having the wide, two handed grip keeps it fairly easy to saw.
A super sharp blade helps too!
all the best,
Tom
Tom, how long did it take start to finish to rip these down? Amazing skills.
Thanks Marc- I don't honesty remember, but it was probably a couple of hours at most. The tools really do the work-; ) I just move them around the wood.
Where did you find the kerfing plane?or did you make it as well?
You'll find detailed plans in my book, The Unplugged Woodshop. Available here: www.tauntonstore.com/the-unplugged-woodshop-071423.html
+Tom Fidgen thanks. I will check out your book.
What the hell. how did paul sellers never show me that one.
surely he did and ive just forgotten