Well Sir...you exemplify what has been years since I last saw; Craftsmanship. I remember when I was very young there was a man in our town who worked out of his garage, and had a reputation for building the most beautiful furniture. Also, restoration of furniture. (This was back in the early to mid 1960’s).He did it not for the money, so much as for the love of it, as evidenced by his most reasonable prices. He seemed to always have a backlog of work, and could easily have charged double or triple what he did. Having just watched several of your videos, I would surmise that you are cut From the same cloth, a true Craftsman! Thank you for sharing!
Nicely done, brother. Yes, it's a push-or-pull saw! I've got four, two that are 200+ years old (one of which is for cutting veneer), a smaller one I made when writing the Roubo book, and one from Bad Axe Tools. I've got two blades from Isaac that I will make new frames for and probably forge the hardware myself. These saws are indeed beasts, and are used in my shop with some regularity.
I think the way you used it here, it's *stroke* _[teeth direction = away from you]_ . If you flip the saw, it's *pull* of course. Man - you're skilled..
I don’t plan on building one of those monsters, but I’ve learned a lot watching your work. One thing I’ve learned is that when you keep your planes sharp you don’t have to push down on the plane. It’s obvious that you’re just pushing the plane forward. That is a revelation for me.
I really appreciate this comment, it was also a revelation for me when it finally clicked. Before then, I would spend forever trying to simply flatten a board because I was always "chasing my tail' so to speak.
You selected and made the frame for this long and wide saw blade perfectly. Its dimensions are quite large and it is practically suitable for operation by two people. Congratulations and best regards 😀.
Frank great video. I appreciate the simple no stress approach to your project. Showing full stock prep, wasn't that hard. Mortise and tenon seemed fairly easy. Cutting curves with a chisel and spoke went quick, I guess you can do wood working with hand tools! I still look forward to a bench video, why the apron, your thoughts on the flush mount veritas vice. Which front vice you chose etc. I really appreciate your humble honest style of video content, hard to fake, must be who you are as a person. The excited, "I got to try it before I put a finish on it". I think we do that with every tool, cabinet and project, the excited to see how does it look or how does it work.
Thank you very much Kevin! It means a lot. I have been dreaming up a bench for a while now that combines a few of my favorite parts of the couple benches I've used. When I get around to making it I plan to give a detailed look at my current bench too
@@FranksWorkbench Looking forward to that video. You almost need to make a bench and use it to determine what you need in a bench. I am using the first bench I built. I've changed vise styles and locations a few times. As different work holding needs arise its only then that you can decide what bench you need and works for you! While waiting, yea or nay on the veritas vice? I've not put holes in my bench, but that vise seems to meet most needs and is a relatively easy install. Thanks again Frank, yours is easily one of the 3 best you tube channels on hand tool woodworking.
The veritas vice is great. I chose it for ease of install on a bench with apron as well as to clamp flat to the apron (which mine no longer does bc I added leather which causes a offset). However if you already have a standard cast iron quick release vise then there is really nothing that the veritas vise offers to justify the extra expense IMO. Agree with you on the bench use. The bench I want to build will have a the size and simplicity of the my Nicholson, but with a laminated top for thickness/firmness, no apron and instead a wide front rail, and will either use my current vise or a twin screw for cutting wide board dovetails. But that project is on the back burner for now.
I want to tell everyone you are right about the scrub plane. I spent way too much time a week or so ago doing what I should have done with a scrub plane, thinking I didn't need one. I basically gave myself intersection syndrome (look it up it hurts) from way too much repetitive motion. Modified a sub-par #4 I got at menards into a scrub plane and it makes the rough flattening time take like 1/8 what it did before.
This was only your second video I've watched. I kept with it as much to see what on earth a "roubo style frame saw" was! Regarding the push vs pull, just turn it around and try it both ways. Perhaps start the cut one way, then reverse the saw and finish the other. Oh, regarding not having room... perhaps word from the opposite side of the bench?
Nice work! I’m thinking selling my delta bandsaw for some hand saw. Frame saw would be definitely a good choice for resaw. Maybe I’m stupid but i love hand tools and handwork. What saw you have for rip and crosscut? I see you use it a lot for « small » cuts.
Just, wow! I've resawed with my 240 mm ryoba. And I am harboring some serious desire for this beast of yours right now. Luckily I came across an old 700mm frame saw with a nearly mint condition rip tooth blade since. But this roubo style looks so stabile to chew through large stock with.
Finally got to watch this in its entirety. Ur presentation including mistakes, curses and adjustments on the fly, beyond great. How do find time my friend? Keep em rollin
Nice piece of kit you've made there. How do those things go if you attach a pull system to the other end. Thereby, guiding the saw through the job, rather than pushing it through.
did you get the blade from blackburn tools? If so, did you go with the "set" option on the teeth? I'm eyeballing one of the 32" ones. He says you can get a set on the teeth in case you use it on green wood. Is there any drawback to getting a set on the teeth if it ends up mostly being used on dry wood? Aside from a wider kerf?
These frame saws look the business for resawing. I was wondering about the idea of putting the framesaw in a fixed frame to keep the blade centred, has anyone tried this?
Very interesting tool, but it raises a question: Why use something like this instead of a common handsaw? I'm genuinely interested in knowing on which case scenarios are these preferred.
There’s a big difference in time and energy it takes to rip and ability to steer from what I understand. Guys like Bob Rozkowski have done videos sawing in same timber for set period of time and measuring the difference in speed. It was about 1.8x as fast as I remember, but monster difference in energy exerted. I’m building one because I’m trying to get to as near all hand tool as I can tolerate and because I want to do the 1/8” veneers it can produce. Just my 2¢
Lovely job. Now you can be the beast master. I definitely prefer it on the push - sawing with the legs rather than arms and letting the weight of the saw provide the force is, for me, easier on the push. (Regarding board pivoting in the vise, because my vise is (intentionally) not flush with my apron, I have an l-shaped spacer block sized to my apron gap that I can clamp to on the lower apron for 2 points of contact when resawing - pegs work too.) Great video with a subtle teaching style like spot planing and bevel up/down tips. ;)
Any issues with drift? I find with mine I have a hard time keeping with a line. Built the same saw. I also had some weld burs in the inside of the bracket that attaches the saw to the frame which I had to file down.
I didn't notice any drift issues but then again it was a pretty small scrap of wood that I cut. I also filed off the weld burr but just didn't record it.
Resawing is one of my least favorite hand tool tasks. I've been thinking about adding a frame saw - and tips or recommendations about what to do or not do?
Thank you! I probably won't use a kerfing plane since my purpose is really just to cut 4/4 and 5/4 boards in half to use for drawer sides, panels, etc. If I needed more accuracy like trying to resaw off a 1/8 - 1/4" veneer I'd probably think about the kerfing plane.
I dont have a scrub plane but I do have an old craftsman no 4 that is my 'high stock removal' plane/ Not optimal but it works well. How flat do you generally go when processing material?
Right on man. I try to get it as flat as possible but just by sight, I don't pull out feeler gauges or anything like that, the boards gonna go out of flat overnight anyways. Before joinery I usually pass a plane over it again
Great video. I feel ya when you use this style of saw for the first time but once you figure how it really works it cuts through a board like a hot knife through butter. 😁
Go for it man. Honestly if I wasn't recording this I probably would have only shaped the handle on one side and left the other end a rectangle to save time.
FWIW, I ordered this kit from Blackburn over a year ago, and I’m still waiting on delivery. Isaac is way behind in his workload, according to email I received. Patience is a virtue, they say!
Another great video Frank, you keep hitting them out of the park, with instruction, frankness and humility. That saw is a beast, but my shop is tighter than yours and would require some real thinking to figure out usage. A four foot saw seems like you would have to walk it to get full stoke. What blade are you using in bow saw, it looks wider than the ones I get from Tools for Woodworking.
Thank you very much Jim, I really do appreciate it! They are the blades from tools for working wood. Just the basic general use 16 ppi blade. It could have been some video distortion making it look wider as I just record these with a GoPro and sometimes things look stretched out especially close to the screen edges
I absolutely love your channel :) I've always liked building things but I hate the sound of power tools( to jarring for my ears), so I have always tried to do things with hand tools as much as possible. Your channel is an absolute gold mine for tips and techniques when building without using power tools. Thank you so much :)
I wanted to go with Blackburn since I’ve built some of his saws before, but ultimately decided on the 36” from Bad Axe since I was able to also get the matching Kerfing Plane kit with it. Still making decision on with timber to use, had thought of using red elm since I have a whole bunch of 9/4 left over from my bench, but thinking it may be too heavy; then again I’m thinking the heft may actually be beneficial. Something like the heads in Red Elm because elm is so stable and then cherry for the outside arms. I’m gonna use Tom Fidgen’s design from his first book for the Kerfing Plane so I can build three fences (1/8” for shop made veneers, one for resawing common 4/4, and then an adjustable one using my 3/4”x 6 thread box/tap for rods/knobs/nuts) I’ll let you know how it goes..
Shannon Roger's (RenaissanceWW) has a couple of these, and a few videos about them too, give em a gander if you havent already 😁 As others have said, they can work push or pull...... but push seem to be favoured by most. From what I've seen of others use them..... they kinda nearly "step" into the stroke as opposed to using all arm motion to move it like you would with a traditional style saw, kinda similar to the way some rock their body while hand sharpening small/awkward blades..... but I have ZERO experience myself with one of these beasts 😁 I'm thinkin about makin my own someday, I prefer hand tools and I dont really have the room for a bandsaw; or the cash for one that's capable of decent resaw. I'm doing it now with the standard 4.5 tpi handsaw, and it sucks donkey balls 🤦♂️😂 I'm glad I found your channel, hand tool freaks like us are too few and far between 🤙
Cool thank you I will check out that video tonight! Also per the comment below from Don Williams, who is one of the author's for the two lost art press roubo books, it is a push-or-pull saw
Well Sir...you exemplify what has been years since I last saw; Craftsmanship. I remember when I was very young there was a man in our town who worked out of his garage, and had a reputation for building the most beautiful furniture. Also, restoration of furniture. (This was back in the early to mid 1960’s).He did it not for the money, so much as for the love of it, as evidenced by his most reasonable prices. He seemed to always have a backlog of work, and could easily have charged double or triple what he did. Having just watched several of your videos, I would surmise that you are cut From the same cloth, a true Craftsman! Thank you for sharing!
I loved hearing that anecdote and really appreciate your kind words! Thank you
One of the best videos on youtube of building a frame saw!
Thanks!
Nicely done, brother. Yes, it's a push-or-pull saw! I've got four, two that are 200+ years old (one of which is for cutting veneer), a smaller one I made when writing the Roubo book, and one from Bad Axe Tools. I've got two blades from Isaac that I will make new frames for and probably forge the hardware myself. These saws are indeed beasts, and are used in my shop with some regularity.
This is absolutely awesome I appreciate the feedback, Don!! Take it easy!
Thank you. I’m for sure going to make one of these
Good stuff! I really enjoy your content. Nothing more satisfying than hand tool woodworking.
Thanks!
That's awesome big rip saw , I like it 😊 , keep coming your videos I appreciate hand tools woodworking , thanks .
Thank you!
I think the way you used it here, it's *stroke* _[teeth direction = away from you]_ . If you flip the saw, it's *pull* of course. Man - you're skilled..
I don’t plan on building one of those monsters, but I’ve learned a lot watching your work. One thing I’ve learned is that when you keep your planes sharp you don’t have to push down on the plane. It’s obvious that you’re just pushing the plane forward. That is a revelation for me.
I really appreciate this comment, it was also a revelation for me when it finally clicked. Before then, I would spend forever trying to simply flatten a board because I was always "chasing my tail' so to speak.
You selected and made the frame for this long and wide saw blade perfectly. Its dimensions are quite large and it is practically suitable for operation by two people.
Congratulations and best regards 😀.
Frank great video. I appreciate the simple no stress approach to your project. Showing full stock prep, wasn't that hard. Mortise and tenon seemed fairly easy. Cutting curves with a chisel and spoke went quick, I guess you can do wood working with hand tools! I still look forward to a bench video, why the apron, your thoughts on the flush mount veritas vice. Which front vice you chose etc. I really appreciate your humble honest style of video content, hard to fake, must be who you are as a person. The excited, "I got to try it before I put a finish on it". I think we do that with every tool, cabinet and project, the excited to see how does it look or how does it work.
Thank you very much Kevin! It means a lot. I have been dreaming up a bench for a while now that combines a few of my favorite parts of the couple benches I've used. When I get around to making it I plan to give a detailed look at my current bench too
@@FranksWorkbench Looking forward to that video. You almost need to make a bench and use it to determine what you need in a bench. I am using the first bench I built. I've changed vise styles and locations a few times. As different work holding needs arise its only then that you can decide what bench you need and works for you! While waiting, yea or nay on the veritas vice? I've not put holes in my bench, but that vise seems to meet most needs and is a relatively easy install. Thanks again Frank, yours is easily one of the 3 best you tube channels on hand tool woodworking.
The veritas vice is great. I chose it for ease of install on a bench with apron as well as to clamp flat to the apron (which mine no longer does bc I added leather which causes a offset). However if you already have a standard cast iron quick release vise then there is really nothing that the veritas vise offers to justify the extra expense IMO.
Agree with you on the bench use. The bench I want to build will have a the size and simplicity of the my Nicholson, but with a laminated top for thickness/firmness, no apron and instead a wide front rail, and will either use my current vise or a twin screw for cutting wide board dovetails. But that project is on the back burner for now.
Great build, and lovely to see all the steps. Surprising straightforward as well. Inspiring me to get back out in the workshop, so thank you!
I want to tell everyone you are right about the scrub plane. I spent way too much time a week or so ago doing what I should have done with a scrub plane, thinking I didn't need one. I basically gave myself intersection syndrome (look it up it hurts) from way too much repetitive motion. Modified a sub-par #4 I got at menards into a scrub plane and it makes the rough flattening time take like 1/8 what it did before.
This was only your second video I've watched. I kept with it as much to see what on earth a "roubo style frame saw" was! Regarding the push vs pull, just turn it around and try it both ways. Perhaps start the cut one way, then reverse the saw and finish the other. Oh, regarding not having room... perhaps word from the opposite side of the bench?
great and thanks for the video
please in 0:30 ==> soap or what
Suggestion : Add Little feet (woodblocks with stickytape for testing) fo avoid damaging your bench
Nicely done! Love watching everything done by hand, is this the kit from blackburn tools?
Beautiful tools h great respect for wood and hand tools.
Nice work! I’m thinking selling my delta bandsaw for some hand saw. Frame saw would be definitely a good choice for resaw. Maybe I’m stupid but i love hand tools and handwork. What saw you have for rip and crosscut? I see you use it a lot for « small » cuts.
Just, wow! I've resawed with my 240 mm ryoba. And I am harboring some serious desire for this beast of yours right now. Luckily I came across an old 700mm frame saw with a nearly mint condition rip tooth blade since. But this roubo style looks so stabile to chew through large stock with.
Man resawing can be a chore for sure!!
Good job! That thing is a beast 😂
Finally got to watch this in its entirety. Ur presentation including mistakes, curses and adjustments on the fly, beyond great. How do find time my friend? Keep em rollin
I appreciate that brother!! Stay tuned, new project coming tomorrow!
Nice piece of kit you've made there. How do those things go if you attach a pull system to the other end. Thereby, guiding the saw through the job, rather than pushing it through.
It's meant to be both push and pull. It's actually designed so that two people can saw very large stock. There are illustrations of it.
did you get the blade from blackburn tools? If so, did you go with the "set" option on the teeth? I'm eyeballing one of the 32" ones. He says you can get a set on the teeth in case you use it on green wood. Is there any drawback to getting a set on the teeth if it ends up mostly being used on dry wood? Aside from a wider kerf?
These frame saws look the business for resawing. I was wondering about the idea of putting the framesaw in a fixed frame to keep the blade centred, has anyone tried this?
glad i discovered your channel
Me too!
Looks powerful handsaw
Very nice Frank,how much long is the blade?
Very interesting tool, but it raises a question: Why use something like this instead of a common handsaw? I'm genuinely interested in knowing on which case scenarios are these preferred.
There’s a big difference in time and energy it takes to rip and ability to steer from what I understand. Guys like Bob Rozkowski have done videos sawing in same timber for set period of time and measuring the difference in speed. It was about 1.8x as fast as I remember, but monster difference in energy exerted. I’m building one because I’m trying to get to as near all hand tool as I can tolerate and because I want to do the 1/8” veneers it can produce. Just my 2¢
I thought the Bow saw looked big 😂🤣 What a monster you've made!
🤣
Where did you purchase the blade?
Blackburntools.com
Lovely job. Now you can be the beast master.
I definitely prefer it on the push - sawing with the legs rather than arms and letting the weight of the saw provide the force is, for me, easier on the push.
(Regarding board pivoting in the vise, because my vise is (intentionally) not flush with my apron, I have an l-shaped spacer block sized to my apron gap that I can clamp to on the lower apron for 2 points of contact when resawing - pegs work too.)
Great video with a subtle teaching style like spot planing and bevel up/down tips. ;)
Appreciate it Malcolm and that's a great tip!
Any issues with drift? I find with mine I have a hard time keeping with a line. Built the same saw. I also had some weld burs in the inside of the bracket that attaches the saw to the frame which I had to file down.
I didn't notice any drift issues but then again it was a pretty small scrap of wood that I cut. I also filed off the weld burr but just didn't record it.
@@FranksWorkbench yeah when I try to rip a 3' board it gets tough to keep the line. It might just require some practice.
Where do do u source your cherry ?
Thanks for sharing Frank!
Thanks Darren!
Resawing is one of my least favorite hand tool tasks. I've been thinking about adding a frame saw - and tips or recommendations about what to do or not do?
not really sure, its still something I need to get a lot better at myself
@@FranksWorkbench keep us (and by that I mean me🤪) posted
Just discovered your channel today and am really enjoying it. Thank you!
where did you get the saw blade and hardware?
what made you want to swap out your plane irons for the Veritas ones? did you go with PM-V11?
'Look honey I made a tool we can use together in the shop' 'um no... have fun with your new toy dear'
Great job!
hahaha!
Beatiful work, what brand is your mortise chisel? Thanks.
Thanks man It's the sorby sash mortise chisel
I love to make one
that was great!
Mostly assuming its some sort of joke, but what exactly did ya mean by 'using cherry would be less expensive than if you'd used a 2x4'?
at the time that i made that, 2x4 lumber prices were going through the roof
Def need a kerf plane for this saw mate..... :)
Looks great! Have you found yourself needing a kerfing plane?
Thank you! I probably won't use a kerfing plane since my purpose is really just to cut 4/4 and 5/4 boards in half to use for drawer sides, panels, etc. If I needed more accuracy like trying to resaw off a 1/8 - 1/4" veneer I'd probably think about the kerfing plane.
I dont have a scrub plane but I do have an old craftsman no 4 that is my 'high stock removal' plane/ Not optimal but it works well. How flat do you generally go when processing material?
Right on man. I try to get it as flat as possible but just by sight, I don't pull out feeler gauges or anything like that, the boards gonna go out of flat overnight anyways. Before joinery I usually pass a plane over it again
Great video. I feel ya when you use this style of saw for the first time but once you figure how it really works it cuts through a board like a hot knife through butter. 😁
very nice
Im impressed 👍
I think you may have inspired me to finally build mine as I’ve had the kit laying around for a few months.
Go for it man. Honestly if I wasn't recording this I probably would have only shaped the handle on one side and left the other end a rectangle to save time.
HELLO, COULD YOU GIVE ME THE LINK TO WHERE YOU PURCHASED THE BLADE SO I CAN BUY IT HERE IN BRAZIL
Nice video and a great job of building that resaw! Question: Where did you buy your saw blade? And, was this a kit with all the parts? Thanks.
Thank you! I got the kit at blackburntools.com. it comes with the metal parts needed including the blade
FWIW, I ordered this kit from Blackburn over a year ago, and I’m still waiting on delivery. Isaac is way behind in his workload, according to email I received. Patience is a virtue, they say!
Another great video Frank, you keep hitting them out of the park, with instruction, frankness and humility. That saw is a beast, but my shop is tighter than yours and would require some real thinking to figure out usage. A four foot saw seems like you would have to walk it to get full stoke. What blade are you using in bow saw, it looks wider than the ones I get from Tools for Woodworking.
Thank you very much Jim, I really do appreciate it! They are the blades from tools for working wood. Just the basic general use 16 ppi blade. It could have been some video distortion making it look wider as I just record these with a GoPro and sometimes things look stretched out especially close to the screen edges
I wish i saw this video before buying a bandsaw 😞
Isn’t this what a kerf saw was designed to help with?
how the heck is cherry cheaper than using a 2x4 (i just bought some cherry slabs and I felt like i got a good deal on nice wood) :(
Never used one, but my guess is that one should always use back muscles when possible.
Watch the Renaissance wood worker. He has the same saw and explains it well
como posso conseguiruma lamina dessas aqui para o brasil?
I wish I could get that sharpness lol
I absolutely love your channel :) I've always liked building things but I hate the sound of power tools( to jarring for my ears), so I have always tried to do things with hand tools as much as possible. Your channel is an absolute gold mine for tips and techniques when building without using power tools. Thank you so much :)
Thank you so much!!
you can always just flip the saw around if you want to cut on a pull :)
Haha very true I guess i felt the tensioning screw should be on the user side for some reason but you're totally right it wouldn't make a difference
@@FranksWorkbench well i've never used one (i want to now that i saw this haha) but test it out and see if where that screw is matters lol
Spanish subtitles please!!! 🙏
I always have the tightening ring AWAY from my chest.
What kit was this? I’m considering the 36” too but don’t know yet for certain.
Blackburn tools kit. I had debated between the 48 and 36" and am very glad I went with 36. Cheers brother!
I wanted to go with Blackburn since I’ve built some of his saws before, but ultimately decided on the 36” from Bad Axe since I was able to also get the matching Kerfing Plane kit with it. Still making decision on with timber to use, had thought of using red elm since I have a whole bunch of 9/4 left over from my bench, but thinking it may be too heavy; then again I’m thinking the heft may actually be beneficial. Something like the heads in Red Elm because elm is so stable and then cherry for the outside arms. I’m gonna use Tom Fidgen’s design from his first book for the Kerfing Plane so I can build three fences (1/8” for shop made veneers, one for resawing common 4/4, and then an adjustable one using my 3/4”x 6 thread box/tap for rods/knobs/nuts) I’ll let you know how it goes..
I would try turning it around so you do not have that eye bolt poking in your belly
Bruhhh I want one so bad :'(
Shannon Roger's (RenaissanceWW) has a couple of these, and a few videos about them too, give em a gander if you havent already 😁 As others have said, they can work push or pull...... but push seem to be favoured by most. From what I've seen of others use them..... they kinda nearly "step" into the stroke as opposed to using all arm motion to move it like you would with a traditional style saw, kinda similar to the way some rock their body while hand sharpening small/awkward blades..... but I have ZERO experience myself with one of these beasts 😁
I'm thinkin about makin my own someday, I prefer hand tools and I dont really have the room for a bandsaw; or the cash for one that's capable of decent resaw. I'm doing it now with the standard 4.5 tpi handsaw, and it sucks donkey balls 🤦♂️😂
I'm glad I found your channel, hand tool freaks like us are too few and far between 🤙
No kidding on resawing with a handsaw! Even 4.5 tpi...doable, but really hard work, I always avoided it!
🇧🇷🌱🍃🍃🍃
Push or pull? This video may help: ua-cam.com/video/dPgVYTwQ5Wc/v-deo.html. The whole video is about Roubo-style frame resawing.
Cool thank you I will check out that video tonight! Also per the comment below from Don Williams, who is one of the author's for the two lost art press roubo books, it is a push-or-pull saw
With or against the grain is as much a matter of how you orient the timber as it is push cut/pull cut.
Pulling on a saw uses less energy.
Sound problems. No synchronization.
Is it still doing that? I just watched a few mins and didn't hear any issues
Be careful sawing with that thing or you'll end up with two half-sized workbenches.
That's the truth! 🤣