if you have a gen 2 alpha, take your time removing the bell housing. that lube monitor fitting on the transom assembly side is delicate plastic. it's not a very expensive part but it can be very difficult to change depending on your access to the c clip inside the boat. it looked easy here but it's not. those fittings used to be made of brass.. great work by the way on a serious pain in the neck job!
Great Video sir! Ive had my 04 bayliner 175 for 8 years no trouble and lost the impeller last weekend and overheated like crazy. I guess I'll do all this even though its not required.
Nice video. Thanks for the info. Just a piece of friendly advice; you may find it easier to use a pair of dikes (Diagonal Cutters / Cagney & Lacey / Betty & Wilma) for removing the cotter pins. Old Air Force trick I learned decades ago and never use needle nose pliers anymore. Also, you can find flush cutters at the O, O, O, O'Reilly's for them zip tie tails. All the best.
None of my bellows were cracked or leaking but I decided to change them all out to see if I could reveal the source of water in my gear lube. And the subsequent pressurization in the overflow bottle which lead to dumping into the bilge. So I replaced all the orings in the hoses and the bottle which solved the leak but not the water intrusion. So after taking the drive apart I noticed it was missing the seal on the shaft that turns the impeller, changed all the available orings/impeller/carrier seal. Got the bellows off it was full of gear lube. Got everything put back together but buggered the seal so I’m waiting on the tool and seal. I would recommend anyone doing this to not put bellow adhesive on the bell housing side of the drive shaft bellow. It’s a tight fit with the seal and it’s not tough like a stainless bearing race.
I’m looking at replacing mine after the season is over, I’m nervous I’m going to screw up the shifter cable some how in the engine bay! For now my bellow is super glued because I discovered a tear in it…. Ran fine today on the lake!
Thanks for the video, I have an issue with my trim gauge needle. Cleaned up the grounds on bus bar at the back of the boat. The needle of the gauge now moves. However, now when I tap the trim button on the throttle, needle goes all the way up and when I tap down the needle goes all the way down. It does this even with the slightest tap of the trim button. How can I fix this, have you heard of this sort of thing happening before? .any thanks to you.
@NYAG hi, you mean the plastic disc with the metal contacts attached to the underneath side of the disc. Part of the Potentiometer? One side is slightly worn. This turns over two agnled metal tabs, and one side, is a little corroded. Getting new ones. Perhaps this is compromising the signal. Is thst correct, or could there be another reason? Thanks Highlighted NYAG
Thank you for awesome video! After watching it, I'm ready to do mine. Can you tell what the line is that you clamped onto the water line with the plastic clips @ 24:27?
If I remember right, it's an oil tube that goes to the bottom of the bell housing. !?! Thank you, glad i could help!! For support, Please Subscribe if you haven't already!!
@@NYAG After I asked you that, I started taking it apart, it is an oil tube. It connects to the gear shift rod housing on the lower end. I'm guessing it's connected to the same reservoir as the other bigger oil tube?
@@Neal-W it's a pitot tube. it goes to the speedometer. if you look on the front of the lower half of the outdrive there is a tiny hole that works like the plastic tubes often seen installed on the transom.
@mikeysinternetcafe240 oh wow, I was going to put JB weld on that tiny hole on the lower leading edge, I thought something poked through it. I just bought the boat. Thank you for the info...much appreciated 👍
This video helped me out alot. But I can’t seem to get the exhaust bellow to stay on. Every time I tighten the clamp it wants to slip off the housing even with glue. It was about 95 degrees out today so I though maybe it was to hot for the glue to set quickly. Going to let it sit overnight before I tighten in hose clamp this time. Wish me luck🤦🏻♂️
@austinrydberg5850 Persistence!! Make sure the Bellow is seated well into the lip of the bell housing. That's the only tip I can think of. It's definitely tricky.
my shifter cable Bellows is detached at the outboard end from the end fitting. until i can get it all replaced, can I just zip tie around the bellows to restrict the water flow into the engine bay? other than having to keep running the bilge pump, is there any risk of damage to the shifter cable or other engine parts until I do a replacement of the Bellows?
If you can get it back on the lip, a zip tie should temporarily hold. There wouldn't be any damage to the shifter cable that I can think of. Just wouldn't run for long. Don't want the engine bay to get too much water in.
Thank you. Total hrs was probably about 10-11hrs realisticly maybe a little more. Some are easier than others, it definitely was a pain trying to seat that last Bellow.
Good video but mine is a 1969 mercruiser and I'm In a bit of trouble as one of the Hydraulic blocks for the rams is leaking. Terribly and I cannot get to it, nor do I know if that block is even replaceable
@NYAG it actually leaking out of the block that the lines attach to I believe it is the low pressure return to the pump as it has both the rubber lines off the rams attached to it the threads for one of them lines has pulled right out of the block so now I can't attach the line at all and I don't know how that block comes out I detached both lines and the block is firmly attached yet i don't wanna just twist on it as I don't wanna coz a bigger issue
My set up is the style were the holding tank for the Hydraulics is part of the pump body and the only thing the hydraulics do is raise or lower the prop into the water
Excellent video But what if I cannot get to my oil fitting inside the boat to pull the clamps? I have a two thousand and 3 four Winns freedom 180 And my engine is in a tight little hole. Should I still remove the bellhousing?
Thanks! Are you needing to replace the oil fitting? I only had to for the customer, cause it broke. If you gotta remove the bellows, then yes. It makes it a bit easier, especially for the shift cable bellow (feeding cable).
Correct, no point in removing if you dont need to. that's what I would do, Is cut the line and put a new one. A new one is only like 2 or 3 bucks at most. Thank you, sir, for the support!! I appreciate it. And glad I could help.
@@NYAG went on real easy should have tried this sooner. put 303 protectant on a towel and rubbed it around the end of the bellows and it slipped right on
I ended up drilling holes through the aluminium to get to the hose clamps. I would like to see a video of how they put these together in the factory, Watch out for all the China shit bellows they sell on line they are only good for about 3 years. The oem ones last over 15 years.
Don't mind the troll. They are to busy trying to figure out how the earth isn't a sphere.. this drive work is giant pain in @$$ to do. U did fine, and recorded it very well.
@geekinatx8176 you ARE being critical but without actually providing any criticism. If you are going to take the time to leave a comment like this, at least give some of the BIG points that you allegedly see as being "wrong" or you lack any credibility whatsoever. Lots of armchair / keyboard mechanics out there so unless you provide some specifics, everyone seeing this will view you as one. Put up, or shut up.
Great video! Straight to the point! Other guy's talk about too much!! They like to over exaggerat !
Thanks!! 🤙
For support, if you haven't already, please Subscribe
One of the best instructional videos I've seen on UA-cam. Thank you.
@exquisitehomes thank you!! :)
For support, if you haven't already, please subscribe!!
I just took off my stern drive and my 4.3 Mercury cruise replaced it with an outboard new engine pod best thing I ever did
if you have a gen 2 alpha, take your time removing the bell housing. that lube monitor fitting on the transom assembly side is delicate plastic. it's not a very expensive part but it can be very difficult to change depending on your access to the c clip inside the boat. it looked easy here but it's not. those fittings used to be made of brass.. great work by the way on a serious pain in the neck job!
Best detailed video I have reviewed. You are inspiring confidence. I can do this and save money. 😊
Thank you sir!
For support, please subscribe if you haven't already.
Great Video sir! Ive had my 04 bayliner 175 for 8 years no trouble and lost the impeller last weekend and overheated like crazy. I guess I'll do all this even though its not required.
Thanks you sir!
For support, if you haven't already please subscribe.
Great video. I hate this design. V or direct drives are so much easier. Now to go do mine... again!
Thanks
For support, please Like and Subscribe
Best of luck with the job!! 👍
Nice video. Thanks for the info. Just a piece of friendly advice; you may find it easier to use a pair of dikes (Diagonal Cutters / Cagney & Lacey / Betty & Wilma) for removing the cotter pins. Old Air Force trick I learned decades ago and never use needle nose pliers anymore. Also, you can find flush cutters at the O, O, O, O'Reilly's for them zip tie tails. All the best.
Thanks!!
For support if you haven't already. Please Subscribe. And thanks for the tips.
@@NYAG Done
Appreciate it!!
All that work and the customer had you put that beat up old prop back on! Great detail on the video. Hope I never have to do this or have it done.
None of my bellows were cracked or leaking but I decided to change them all out to see if I could reveal the source of water in my gear lube. And the subsequent pressurization in the overflow bottle which lead to dumping into the bilge. So I replaced all the orings in the hoses and the bottle which solved the leak but not the water intrusion. So after taking the drive apart I noticed it was missing the seal on the shaft that turns the impeller, changed all the available orings/impeller/carrier seal. Got the bellows off it was full of gear lube. Got everything put back together but buggered the seal so I’m waiting on the tool and seal. I would recommend anyone doing this to not put bellow adhesive on the bell housing side of the drive shaft bellow. It’s a tight fit with the seal and it’s not tough like a stainless bearing race.
If you are getting gear oil in the bellows, the upper input shaft seal is leaking.
Yep ima just leave with the leak. Just hoping it's not the drive bellow leaking. Nice video!
Thanks! yes, it definitely takes some time to replace.
Make sure to keep your bilge pump goin.
Transom will begin to rot ruining the boat if they leak for long....
I’m looking at replacing mine after the season is over, I’m nervous I’m going to screw up the shifter cable some how in the engine bay! For now my bellow is super glued because I discovered a tear in it…. Ran fine today on the lake!
Should do just fine.! Would take quite a bit to mess up the shift cable.
@@NYAG oh cool! And no joke superglued my bellows shut hahaha
Hey, if it works. Beats having to replace them. I'd just keep a very close eye.
Could be a bad day
Thanks for a informative video! Very helpful!
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!!
For support, please subscribe and like the video. If you haven't already. :)
Here in San Diego 8 years ago it cost me $385 labor to do this job. it was $105 a hour almost 4 hours. with parts almost $700, Bellow boot leaking...
Thanks for the video, I have an issue with my trim gauge needle. Cleaned up the grounds on bus bar at the back of the boat. The needle of the gauge now moves. However, now when I tap the trim button on the throttle, needle goes all the way up and when I tap down the needle goes all the way down. It does this even with the slightest tap of the trim button. How can I fix this, have you heard of this sort of thing happening before? .any thanks to you.
Is the little plastic piece in the middle broken!?
@NYAG hi, you mean the plastic disc with the metal contacts attached to the underneath side of the disc. Part of the Potentiometer? One side is slightly worn. This turns over two agnled metal tabs, and one side, is a little corroded. Getting new ones. Perhaps this is compromising the signal. Is thst correct, or could there be another reason? Thanks Highlighted NYAG
Yes, corrosion could compromise signal.
Is that what your asking?
👍👍 I like you Videos buddy
Were you located ??
Impressive work. I know subscribe. :) Not looking forward to doing this.. gear shift bellows split itself.
Thank you!
Oh, bummer, best of luck!!
Thank you for awesome video! After watching it, I'm ready to do mine. Can you tell what the line is that you clamped onto the water line with the plastic clips @ 24:27?
If I remember right, it's an oil tube that goes to the bottom of the bell housing. !?!
Thank you, glad i could help!! For support, Please Subscribe if you haven't already!!
It connects to the quick disconnect below. Small tube
@@NYAG After I asked you that, I started taking it apart, it is an oil tube. It connects to the gear shift rod housing on the lower end. I'm guessing it's connected to the same reservoir as the other bigger oil tube?
@@Neal-W it's a pitot tube. it goes to the speedometer. if you look on the front of the lower half of the outdrive there is a tiny hole that works like the plastic tubes often seen installed on the transom.
@mikeysinternetcafe240 oh wow, I was going to put JB weld on that tiny hole on the lower leading edge, I thought something poked through it. I just bought the boat. Thank you for the info...much appreciated 👍
This video helped me out alot. But I can’t seem to get the exhaust bellow to stay on. Every time I tighten the clamp it wants to slip off the housing even with glue. It was about 95 degrees out today so I though maybe it was to hot for the glue to set quickly. Going to let it sit overnight before I tighten in hose clamp this time. Wish me luck🤦🏻♂️
Thanks, yes it took me quite afew trys. Definitely frustrating.
For support, if you haven't, please subscribe
How did you tighten the ujoint bellow clamp on the bell housing side
Small screw driver. Think that one was the most painful to do...
You are supposed to do this every 300 hours along with changing the gimbal bearing according to MerCruiser, doing twins tomorrow,
Hmm. I can’t get the metal ring on for the drive bellow. Any tricks for that?
@austinrydberg5850
Persistence!!
Make sure the Bellow is seated well into the lip of the bell housing. That's the only tip I can think of.
It's definitely tricky.
@@NYAG I may have to snag the tool for that, can’t get it in sadly
@@austinrydberg5850 The wood one in the video I actually made it. Just cut out and screw in the handle.
my shifter cable Bellows is detached at the outboard end from the end fitting. until i can get it all replaced, can I just zip tie around the bellows to restrict the water flow into the engine bay? other than having to keep running the bilge pump, is there any risk of damage to the shifter cable or other engine parts until I do a replacement of the Bellows?
If you can get it back on the lip, a zip tie should temporarily hold.
There wouldn't be any damage to the shifter cable that I can think of.
Just wouldn't run for long. Don't want the engine bay to get too much water in.
Good job! You made it look easy. How long did it take ?
Thank you. Total hrs was probably about 10-11hrs realisticly maybe a little more. Some are easier than others, it definitely was a pain trying to seat that last Bellow.
to just replace the shifter cable bellows, do you still have to remove the whole outdrive housing?
Sadly, yes, you do have to take the out drive off. Cause to replace the Bellow, you have to remove the Cable.
Good video but mine is a 1969 mercruiser and I'm In a bit of trouble as one of the Hydraulic blocks for the rams is leaking. Terribly and I cannot get to it, nor do I know if that block is even replaceable
Thank you! Should be able to replace seal.
Some I believe you may have to have a specialty tool.
@NYAG it actually leaking out of the block that the lines attach to I believe it is the low pressure return to the pump as it has both the rubber lines off the rams attached to it the threads for one of them lines has pulled right out of the block so now I can't attach the line at all and I don't know how that block comes out I detached both lines and the block is firmly attached yet i don't wanna just twist on it as I don't wanna coz a bigger issue
Like the threads or a O ring leaking.
@NYAG it's the threads coz it was leaking so I tried to tighten them but it didn't stop leaking just pulled all the threads out the block
My set up is the style were the holding tank for the Hydraulics is part of the pump body and the only thing the hydraulics do is raise or lower the prop into the water
You did a good job, however, I have to complain on your zip tie cutting skills lol
Thanks, haha.
Excellent video But what if I cannot get to my oil fitting inside the boat to pull the clamps? I have a two thousand and 3 four Winns freedom 180 And my engine is in a tight little hole. Should I still remove the bellhousing?
Thanks!
Are you needing to replace the oil fitting? I only had to for the customer, cause it broke.
If you gotta remove the bellows, then yes. It makes it a bit easier, especially for the shift cable bellow (feeding cable).
No I don't have to change the oil fitting but it looks like it has to be detached to pull the helmet out. Am I correct
Also, thanks for replying to me. This is the first time anyone's ever replied LO. LI did subscribe and I will be watching all of your videos, LOL.
Someone also told me that I can just simply cut the oil line and I guess. Spice it on the outside of the transom.
Correct, no point in removing if you dont need to. that's what I would do, Is cut the line and put a new one. A new one is only like 2 or 3 bucks at most.
Thank you, sir, for the support!! I appreciate it. And glad I could help.
What kit did you use?
The owner said they couldn't find any OE kits. So I believe they ordered one off eBay.
ohh ok thank you I’ve been looking all around and none have good reviews
So far, they said it's holding up great, and personally installing it, I don't have any complaints about any of the parts.
sounds good I ordered one up from eBay thank you for the feedback
You're welcome 🤙
There is no way to reach that oil fitting. So should I just replace the shift cable Bellow? And maybe the exhaust Bellow.
Change them All or you will have to go back and do the whole job over again in a year or two.
5/16 hose clamps
Yes sir, do believe that's the standard. 👍
I didnt see how the big bellows was attached to the bell housing???
With the metal inner ring that locks it in place.
Tapped it into place with the wood make shift installer.
thanks!!
You are welcome!!
For support, Please Subscribe if you haven't already!!
cannot get the sleeve to seat even with a sleeve tool for the driveshaft bellows
It takes abit, be persistent. I ran my fingers inside the Bellow to make sure the edge is pressed in the lip firmly
@@NYAG thx I did try that
@marks8052 took probably 12 trys to get it to seat properly. Some are easier than others and vise versa.
@@NYAG went on real easy should have tried this sooner. put 303 protectant on a towel and rubbed it around the end of the bellows and it slipped right on
everything is sae doesn't matter because some metric are close enough. Also zip ties will not last they are not UV stable.
I ended up drilling holes through the aluminium to get to the hose clamps. I would like to see a video of how they put these together in the factory, Watch out for all the China shit bellows they sell on line they are only good for about 3 years. The oem ones last over 15 years.
out of curiosity, how much would a shop charge to do this? Ball park figure
Ball Park for the job is anywhere from $1-2k. Most are around 1.5k roughly, I believe.
@@NYAG ouch. I think I'll try doing it myself. Thank you for the info!
You're welcome!
For support, please tap that subscribe button.
In like Flynn 😂 Old 1930s saying about Errol Flynn and very young women, very very young women.
Thanks for the video. Very helpfull
Thank you!! To support, please subscribe if you haven't already.
I'm cringing watching this video! I don't even know where to begin as far what all you did wrong...not being critical, just facts!
Customer's happy with it, and it's holding up just dandy 👍.
I'm curious...what are you cringing at!?
Don't mind the troll. They are to busy trying to figure out how the earth isn't a sphere.. this drive work is giant pain in @$$ to do. U did fine, and recorded it very well.
@geekinatx8176 you ARE being critical but without actually providing any criticism. If you are going to take the time to leave a comment like this, at least give some of the BIG points that you allegedly see as being "wrong" or you lack any credibility whatsoever. Lots of armchair / keyboard mechanics out there so unless you provide some specifics, everyone seeing this will view you as one. Put up, or shut up.
@@NYAG Don't worry about these dipshits. You did fine.