I really appreciate you taking the time to answer my question. I didn't think it would actually get picked, and I have been swamped at work the past few days, so imagine my surprise when I came to check out the new videos I hadn't yet watched. You provided a great list with a lot of things for me to think about, and this comments section is not disappointing, either! That's why you gotta love the knife community! I definitely consider myself a knife guy, but I know the limits of my knowledge, which is why I love KnifeCenter videos. I learn something new in pretty much every video. And in case anybody is wondering, the front runners from the suggestions in this video are the Rat Model 1, Crawford 1 and Mora Companion Spark.
Mora's are unbeaten, however I stand by my cold steel pocket bushman. It's in my pocket now. It's the most overbuilt folder available. I've carried for 2 years and have trusted that thing with torque I'd never apply to any other folder I've held before. Ive ground a second choil and some jimping. I've tied a monkey fist into the locking mechanism. This allows me three positions to hold the knife in, for fine carving hard use and light chopping. I carry a bandana with me everywhere and that has proved useful to wrap around the handle to prevent hotspots. Love this thing and recommend to any working man
I’ve been thinking about getting one as a back up knife to my fixed blade. How does the edge hold up and is the lock as hard to pull as they say. I only ask because I want my kids to be able to use it.
@@chrisjosekuehl it takes two hands to operate, no way around it. The spring that operated the lock is stiff at first, but it will loosen up, my 8 yo can do it sometimes. It is big in the hands and needs some modding to be comfortable. The blade steel is good. Not great, not bad. Im hard on mine, and it holds an edge through some abuse, relatively easy to sharpen.
I just realized I've been watching this channel for the better part of 2 years now without being subscribed. My bad. Love this channel, as a veteran cook/lifetime knife nerd I always appreciate the fun/new info y'all present. I love the minimizing of production: white room and a laptop with a row of knives. It really helps keep the message about the knives, no bells and whistles, just cool new and old knives.
Advice for the ferro-rod question... A knife is backup for a striker, not a primary method. The reason for this is simple. I have excellent first aid skills, because I got to learn them as I was getting treated as a child/teen. I have learned that any time a sharp, pointy, serrated, or similar surface is exposed it is much more likely to cause an "accident " than when in a sheath/folded. Had a person I went to SERE training do that, and I learn from the mistakes of others... My favorite striker is from a local welding shop. Walked in and asked if they could help me. Ended up with a scrap piece of 5mm plate about 1.5x4" with one end rounded and 90°edge all around. Can (and is) used for so many things, but you don't cut yourself with it accidentally trying to throw sparks. And if you are going the old "flint & steel" route, you can find sets online.
For the stash everywhere knife i went with the crkt minimalist... they are small enough to fit any kit anywhere but still durable enough to be useful... and the handle comfort is surprisingly good for the size
I have one in the warncliff style and I love it. The design is super handy. To bad the steel is shit. Not a huge deal just I need to run it on a ceramic rod before ever use. For the price I highly recommend
@@kakashi1234777nah man i can’t justify 5cr anything, if you want a minimalist style knife get the SPEC or SPIT, they come in 8cr13mov or SMKW has the SPEW in d2. there’s also the katana blade shape and the green/blue blade printing/scale models have 8cr13mov instead of that garbage ass 5cr
The D2 for a knife stashed in a survival kit isn't much of a problem for me. My solution for D2's less than optimal corrosion resistance is paste wax. It doesn't need much. A wipe from a waxy rag goes a long way. Learned that trick from a wood worker who told me how he protects his tools. Works pretty well for pocket knives.
I would suggest the stainless Mora with the orange accents on the handle, so it's easy to find if you drop it. If it's for a survival kit, then the conditions are likely going to be far from ideal if you end up having to use it. Get something you can use in the woods in the dark during a rain storm, while you're tired and hungry.
The Buck 100 Slim Select is a great choice. It's what I got multiple of and is also my work knife. It holds up to garden hose, small branches, cardboard and the occasional side of a couch or recliner very well. For a fixed blade Cold Steel Canadian Belt Knife. $16 and absolutely amazing.
Pocket bushman is my toolbox knife. I used it to cut out over 600 square yards of glued carpet last. Lockup is awesome. Steel is soft and doesn’t last super long, but super easy to touch up on a pocket stone I keep next to it. Also if you are thinking about it to carry, a deep carry Shaman clip fits perfectly on it!
I loved this knife and wanted to make it work but I had 2 of them lock up permanently on me. CS knows about the issue and they had allegedly fixed it before I bought a second knife. But the second locked up same as the first.
@@southernsteel4476 that’s crazy and unfortunate. I must have got one that was produced after they fixed it. I definitely used it in a way that would have locked it up if it had the issue. With the spine on the ground, edge side up pushing on the lock through the glued carpet on the ground still. Luckily I haven’t had that issue.
DCA, I've been watching KC videos for a long time now and must disagree with, or at least contest several points you make quite often. I do a lot of landscaping and outdoor work, usually involving dirt, and while I love fixed blades, they just don't fit well in a pocket. #1. Washers can get just as much dirt in them as bearings can, and it tends to do more damage to washers than to bearings. I have unfortunately tested this in the field and found out the expensive way. And I would say tolerances and design play a bigger part in this than the actual mechanism does. #2. Axis/ cross-bar locks, seem to be a magnet for "stuff" getting wedged behind them. Making them either a fixed blade or a chunk of something that isn't a knife. This to me is a design flaw, if a small rock can completely stop operation and another knife is needed to fix it. Liner locks can suffer from debris as well, but Frame locks on the other hand, seem to be impervious to these things. Basically what I'm trying to say is that a Frame lock flipper on bearings has been almost impossible for me to defeat while an axis-lock on washers only takes me minutes. No, not everyone is a landscaper but to say that washers are tougher than bearings is simply not true, and a cross-bar lock Might be suited better to those with adversaries in the cardboard form. Thank you, aaaand Thomas for the great content.
I'm a fellow landscaper. I will say that in my experience washers are less likely to get gritty from dust/dirt/sand/dried mortar mix etc. They are also inherently stronger when it comes to lateral force being applied. I agree that axis locks can get gritty from dust/dirt/mortar but I've never had one fail to function. For fixed blades, I had been trying to find one that worked for me for a while, and ended up adding quite a few nice fixed blades to the collection that had sheaths that just didn't work for me. I got the KC exclusive Creely Mako in Cruwear this week and have been carrying it in pocket since Tuesday. It works GREAT! If you've been wanting to try a fixed blade that carries in pocket comfortably I would try that one out, I can't recommend it enough.
I’m a big fan of the Crawford 1. Some folks are hung up on the steel, but it has served me very well, tends to occupy my pocket a lot more than some more expensive knives I have. My Crawford is broken in as well and it flips open very easily and smoothly. I Like it
DCA said it was 4116 steel but I believe it’s 4034, a budget Japanese product that should be just fine at this price point. I just grabbed one at $29 bucks off an Amazon special and I can’t wait!
For cheap camp/survival knives, the Ontario Camp Plus folders are probably worth putting in the mix almost as a companion knife because they're so stoopid cheap. Could then focus less on a single all-rounder, use the Camp Plus for light food prep stuff and have something more dedicated for the survival use. That'd be my angle on that question.
I stash Moraknivs EVERYWHERE. They are so inexpensive, and even with the carbon steel, a simple lard treatment will help them resist rust for a while even in storage. They are nearly indestructible, and the bright colored handles have been described as "friendly and non-aggressive" and are easy to find in camping settings.
Their sandvik stainless is amazing and very stainless. Can't go wrong with a Morakniv. Wax coating a carbon blade protects it's amazingly and lasts a long time, you don't need much, heated wax melted on an old rag and wipe the blade. Comes off easy, and better than oil for long term storage.
For the survival knife under $50 I would hav to go with the Cold Steel Finn Wolf love the scandi grind and the triad lock I pocket carried one for years and love it
I had a new embarrassing knife story happen since last week. I got the Creely Cruwear Mako from you guys last week. Sat down on the couch to open it. Opened the box and the knife is not shipped inside the sheath, its in what looks like an anti-static bag with a rubber tip protector on the blade. I grabbed the bag to lift it out of the box and the knife shot straight thru the bottom of the bag and landed tip down in the top of my bare footed big toe. I was bleeding pretty bad so I left the knife and went and got bandaged up. Went back to investigate and discovered the knife had cut through the rubber tip protector which allowed it to cut right through the bag as I picked it up.
@@yankee23a Instead I sent the maker a friendly email about what happened. Really not sure why the knife isn't shipped in the sheath, it would save cost on packaging and be safer. Can't think of any fixed blades I've bought that weren't packaged within their sheath.
Another great saw knife is the victorionox equinox. My spelling is ish, but I’ve had it for quite a few years and they’re really nice to hold and fairly compact. Definitely recommend
Good timing on the first question. I just ordered the "Ganzo G7452P Tactical Folding Knife 440C Blade G10 Handle Axis Lock". It has three things I want to try; it's a Ganzo, thumb studs and axis lock. I realize it's not the best example of any of those, but I couldn't resist at $12!
I think the knife in my collection that best ticks all the boxes for best budget survival kit knives is the Bestech Komodo. Comes in at $52, really nice and useful blade shape, very strong and comfortable handle, great flipping action and very comfortable and easy to use liner lock.
Funny you mention this knife. Bought one only a few weeks ago after looking at it for some time. Glad I did. Definitely capable of more than just EDC. The handle in particular makes the difference. Bestech make great knives (for their price) so reliability isn't an issue. Have a great day.
@@realbroggo Isn't it a great knife? Very tough to beat at the $50 price point. It's not fancy, it's not a well known Bestech model, and it's not one of those premium knives you can't wait to show off, but it's built like a tank with a nice blade and great flipping action for an awesome price. And Bestech does some of the nicest two tone G10 handle work you'll find on any knife. You're so right about the Komodo's handle too, it's extremely comfortable and solid. Hope you're having a great day too!
I did this several years ago. I got Buck Large Bantams. The handle feels pretty good, it has the same 420HC. It's not really fidgety, but it doesn't need that.
Case has a Hunter Trapper with a plain blade, saw blade & gut hook at a good size for pocket carry. Browning has one with a blade & saw blade also but not sure on the size of the new one. The browning lockback with blade, saw & gut hook from 20ish years ago worked very well but was little large for pocket carry.
Really enjoy the channel. I too would recommend a Mora as a stashed kit knife all day every day. 👍 I recently stapped my favourite neck knife (an ESEE Xancudo) to my ESEE Junglas 2 to store them and realized that it made a really cool pair - a large blade and a neck knife from the same brand. Kinda fun! I then took my Ol' Faithful Becker BK 9 and strapped my little Becker BK11 to it, and I thought, "Hey, that's pretty cool too." And they're something one could grab and head to the woods with just as is. Any interest in showing us some other fun same-branded necker-chopper/large blade combos? Maybe a Scandinavian themed combo? Tactical combo? Could really have some fun with it...
i vouch for both the cold steel kudu and the pocket bushman. the bushmans lock is insane at full blown batoning and that 4116 krupp steel is one of my favorites for how easy it is to use and it holds an edge as well as doesnt rust as easily. i love the kudu because its dirt cheap and its been a staple as a food knife for me on the go
Same. I love all my Cold Steel knives, but I really enjoy the Kudu (I have one in every bag as a back up) and it's never let me down. Same for the Pocket Bushman, I've used mine hard and never had an issue.
Oh my... Of all my knives my favorite is in this weeks video 🙂. At your past recomendation I purchased the Boker Optima II and also purchased the third blade in Cruwear. Like others inflected with the knife bug, this is my "best of". Mike
I carry two knives daily, first is a Spyderco Yojimbo 2 for self defense if the need ever arises and the second is a small Cold Steel Kiridashi I use for the every day tasks... cutting open envelopes, boxes, very light prying, etc... I love the Kiridashi but I feel like I need to sharpen it more often that I would like. I was hoping for some options on a new folding EDC about the same/similar size and blade shape as the Kiridashi but with a better steel that did not need as much maintenance and sharpening. Price point I am looking for is between $50 - $150 and I would like to keep it light weight and around 2.5" blade length... Thanks and keep up the great work!
Dca Like DCA, I am a fixed blade fanatic. My most carried, used and loved knife is my Benchmade Altitude. Ultralight, perfect ergos, jimping in all the right places and incredible edge retention. I scout carry it every day and utilize a pinch grip with my index finger near the tip of the blade for precise cuts all day at work. The carbon fiber finger ramps fit my hand perfectly. I would love to find something comparable but smaller for pocket carry. Minimalist profile, ultralight, ergos/jimping are priorities. Steel is not an issue. I clean and hone my blade regularly and frankly the S90V on my Altitude is overkill… Under $150 preferred.
Hi DCA & Thomas. Another great bunch of cutting tools on the table. Great knife story & mishaps. Perhaps that has open a new catagory in "What you shoudn't do with a Knife".Prevention is better than a cure.! We have always carry a Buck 110, use & abuse it but never cut or stab ourselves. Lesson lived & learn perhaps. Great vid matey. Welcome back Thomas. Warm greetings from Australia.
I bought the Steel Will Modus a year and a half ago and couldn't open it. The detent was insane. I ended up returning it. I own 185 fixed and folding knives.
Western knives from back in the day made a great combination knife with blade and saw. The Western 932 has a 4-1/2 blade with a matching saw blade. The one I have came from a small less traveled town where the knife I got was actually the display model. You can still see the spot where the wires held the sheath in place.
DCA, for the second queastion about the saw, you mentioned lockbacks with a blade and saw combo, Mikov from the Czech Republic still make a few in that style. They also make some hunting fixed blades with a folding saw in the handle, but that looks way less practical. (Edit: they even sell their Predator switchblade with a saw on!)
For a folding knife the Buck 110 slim or 112 slim is the choice for me. Stash the orange handle ones for high visibility when you need to grab one and don't want to go hunting around in the glove box or toolbox. For fixed blades absolutely have your favorite Mora available.
The Sanrenmu (SRM) 9019 is another GREAT saw blade utility type camp/hunt knife I can vouch for and highly recommend that has decent Sandvik steel and an excellent basic assortment of tools. The price is very reasonable so you can stash them all over if you want.
Djfugi I’d get ‘em all a civivi praxis for 42.50 a piece or the buck 110 isn’t a bad choice . Actually there are no bad choices here , lol. We all tend to think the knives we have are the best but most knives ar e usually well thought out imo . Every knife is like a song
I love my Badlands Vagabond for its looks and action, but yeah, camping and survival isn't quite the job for it, I think it's best for lighter duty things. I love my CJRB Taiga when I need something beefier but it has bearings too. : ( Still, plenty of good options.
I Dremel'd off the powdercoating on a section of the top of my TOPS BOB 3.5 making sure it has a sharp spine and it throws sparks just fine. I did the same thing with my original first production TOPS BOB and it throws sparks just fine too. I keep my knives clean and oiled when not in use and no issues with rust at all.
I like the idea of multiple stashes, don't think I really need to buy more knives for this. I could make at least 10 stashes and still have plenty of knives left. All good knives, but a surprise by the time you need the stash!
Yeah, I could leave a Benchmade, Spyderco or Demko in every room of my house, in all my vehicles, and in a bugout bag for the wife and I and all 4 kids and still have a few left over to leave in the collection.
Kershaw Analyst Tanto for the 30-50 dollar range would be my go too. Solid grip and texture, with open assist flipper. Right now on Amazon runs right around 36.59 normally runs 53.99. Has a partial serrated blade as well for helping to cut through some stuff.
Really love this channel and you've become a significant influence on most of my recent knife acquisitions! Here's something I (and I think many others) would love to see in a future KC FAQ: How do you and your colleagues at TKC store/house/show off your knife collections at home?? I've turned into an accidental knife collector in the past couple years, mostly of the mid-range EDC variety, and my collection is now at 25+ knives. It would be interesting (and informative!) to see you you all at The Knife Center handle your knife storage at home. (Full disclosure... I am a hobbyist woodworker, so I'm on the lookout for knife box/cabinet storage ideas that I could incorporate into a knife box I plan to build in the near future.). Thanks and keep up the good work!
I’m more of a fixed blade guy when it comes to survival or outdoor purposes. For me, folders are only convenient for edc, even though there are some great bushcraft folders out there.
sir . enjoy you content immensely. one choice i use for super inexpensive working bushcraft knives are the hultafors line. i have the plumbers and the prescision.. both are excellent in the field , and both in the uk cost less than 10 pounds.. i highly recommend them. even over my very expensive bushcraft blades.. thanks mark..
Hello 👋 David, greetings from Northern California. Thank you for previewing the many promotional priced knives. I like the term 'girthier'. If you haven't patented the term, I'm going to use it. The best to you, stay safe and healthy. 🤗
I use Old Hickory butcher/hunting knives in my five gallon bucket emergency stashes. Some packs in vehicles, I use bayonets. Not much better field knife than a battle-proven bayonet. I like the bolo blade style of the F8, but there are some masterful trench art examples out there, too. A nice, pointy bayonet is good for probing when metal detecting, too. I have pilot survival knives tucked away here and there, as well. One is on my daily gun belt for moseying around the ranch here.
DCA, was wondering if you could do a segment on the best fixed edc neck knives out there (I'll admit I'm not sure if you've already covered this, but if not...). Another idea would be a segment featuring "mechanical" or "kinetic" opening knives like the CRKT provoke, though I don't know if there's even enough of a selection out there to make a video about them. Also, a stupid knife story I have happened to me recently, and it was quite bad. I was trying to remove a Mora sloyd carving knife (they're longest version) with a wood handle from it's sheet. It's a long sloyd knife, so it has about a 3" blade that is really slender and tapers down to a fine point, it is EXTREMELY sharp. I always coat any knife I have that has wood handles with some boiled linseed oil or mineral oil, and this knife had been sitting in a drawer for a good 6 months unused. I guess the mineral oil had slightly expanded the wood handle to where it was very difficult to remove from the sheath. I was trying to be careful as I knew this was a potentially dangerous situation. I was trying to use the least amount of force to unsheath it as opposed to yanking it out with all my force and potentially cutting myself. Well, that backfired. It eventually popped out but because I was trying to minimize the force i was using and pull it out in a controlled manner, after it popped out I basically unintentionally pushed it back forward from trying to pull it out without too much force and ended up pushing the tip of the blade really hard against the index finger of my hand holding the sheath and cut myself REALLY deep. Seriously, I was surprised I couldn't see the bone, I thought I would. I cut the tip of my index finger at least 1/4" deep, it was bad and it was bleeding like crazy. Had to use 3 bandaids because the first 2 filled up with blood immediately. Anyway. I made sure that when I put it back in its sheath I did so very gently to hopefully avoid this from happening again.
Sorry that happened, but in my opinion trying to remove a sheathed knife "carefully" is the most likely way to stab yourself when it finally breaks free and you attempt to stop the recoil. I always draw a sheathed knife with one strong continuous pull and never try to stop the pull until my hands are spread apart. As long as your hands are moving in opposite directions its almost impossible to cut yourself. You might lose grip of the sheath or the knife but you won't cut yourself.
@@arrowheadguys7637 True, good point. I'm definitely not going to repeat that again. The whole reason I ended up cutting myself, like you mentioned was because I was trying to counteract the force of it popping out. Like you said, it definitely would be much safer to just pull them apart without trying to fight any of the recoil.
Come on DCA, you're missing one of the best woods/bushcraft folders out there with a saw: the Victorinox Farmer. Excellent saw, and a parallel awl that makes an incredible ferro rod striker.
I have developed some patina on my Cruwear blade, and I am wanting to put a acid etch and a stonewash on it. Would these small rust/patina spots cause any problems while acid etching and stonewashing my blade? Can they turn into rust underneath a stonewashed finish?
At least by catching the blade in the leg you saved it from being damaged from hitting the floor. As for my 'go to' bulk purchase folding knife, I use the RAT 1 & 2 depending on what size I want. Cheap, hard use and easy to maintain. As for a similar fixed blade I use either Mora Basic or Companion for all the same reasons. Problems throwing sparks - check the quality of your ferro rod. Users often worry about the knife & not the rod. Some cheap ferro rods are poor sparkers. Buy a quality ferro rod. Sharp blades everyone.
I got a Victorinox Evogrip S18 on eBay awhile back, it's perfect for the car first aid kit. Good blade, great scissors, can opener & cap lifter, mini saw. Great for working with bandages, opening packets, etc. I'm not a fan of the T-style Phillips screwdriver, but it'll do in a pinch.
The clever knob on the Morakniv sheaths. Hello DCA! You have mentioned the Moraknive many times on the channel but I have never seen you mentioning the clever little knob on many Morakniv sheaths. That knob is so that you can click another sheath on to the first one so that you can tandem hang them! (Or theoretical triple or quadruple hang them). I use this feature a lot, for example I could have a really sharp knife in on sheathe that I only use for strict cutting tasks, and in the other sheet I can have a knife for those scraping or prying tasks that you really should not use a knife for, but do any way. Or if I am wood working I could have a Morakniv Basic in one sheath and the chisel variant (M-12250) in the other. Plus many more options. Thought it could be worth mentioning.
DCA, I have a Kershaw Scallion with the stainless steel blade and I am trying to give it a black finish. I have been trying the Birchwood Casey blackening for stainless steel (Presto Black SSB) and it turns the blade black but the oxide will rub off with medium pressure. Are there ways to seal the knife so that the black oxide layer will stay on during normal use? I tried soaking the blackened parts in boiled linseed oil but that also did not hold the oxide to the surface. I am now trying the process again but using a penetrating concrete sealer. Are there better ways to turn stainless steel blades/liners black that won't just flake off like paint? I am wary of using heat on blade steel.
Ranger Wood is great, but if you want cheaper & plain edge & one hand opening, the Ranger Grip 79 has a smooth blade, saw, and *relatively* cheap (Victorinox says $79 MSRP).
Stash: Camillus keto flipper? Seems to check a lot of boxes. Not sure of the pivot. Washer? Ball bearing? I prefer washers for all the stated reasons. Size, weight seem good. Price is good for buying in bulk.
Cold Steel Pocket Bushman would NOT be my choice after reading reviews about it I EDC a Spyderco Resilience, a wonderful large blade good for survival, in addition I have a Victorinox Deluxe Tinker & an extra small folding saw my next choice would be the Ontario Rat for folder & the lower priced Mora for a fixed blade in addition to a folding saw
Best bang for you buck. At what point ($$$) do you get diminishing returns on performance. Yes, you get what you pay for, but why a $60 knife over a $30, why $120 vs an $80. Call it a "Hi/Low" challenge.
I've got a good ques for you. How about a recommendation for a somewhat small, portable knife that could be used to protect self from an animal such as a bear or small coyote. Knife must be small enough to be placed in a small bag, like if you go Mtn biking in the woods. Or, must be able to put in pocket or be comfortable on your belt for hiking/camping in the woods.
I purchased a Milwaukee Fast-Back Drop Point recently. I thought it was going to just be a button lock like their utility knives but it also has a liner lock. Every once in a while when I flick it open the liner lock goes past the back of blade and jams up. Can this happen on regular knives over time? Is it the lock that wore out or was the geometry of the blade not proper to stop it? Also are there other knives out there that use both a button lock and liner lock?
Hi DCA, I get told by people I talk to about folding knives that Slipjoints are more dangerous than locking knives, for you and knife centre staff who have cut themselves with Slipjoints or locking knives? Are Slipjoints cutting more people than locking knives?
Hi DCA. My mother (aged 82) recently complained that her thumb is too weak to close her liner lock flippers. She currently uses a Kizer Lieb and an Artisan Cutlery Shark 3”. She loves the excellent flipping action of both knives but needs to close them two-handed. I suggested buying her a button lock flipper which I think is easier for her. Can you recommend one which fits her smaller than average hands? Budget around 100$ but I am willing to pay more for a perfect fit. Thanks
Do you have a knife shop anywhere nearby where she could try one out first? My grandma lost a lot of the "meat" in her fingers when she got up over 80 - it wasn't just the strength but her fingertips were like soft grapes. I have a Kizer Swayback that works fine in my little hands (I'm not 80+). That might be a good candidate for her - the button sticks out far enough when it's open that she could press on it with the side of her thumb knuckle if her fingertip won't do it. But if you could take her shopping that might be best.
Check out the Civivi Altus! If she wants a flipper instead of thumbstuds then the Civivi Cogent. The WE Culex has both and is that 3" size thats probably what she is after, but its about double your budget.
I really appreciate you taking the time to answer my question. I didn't think it would actually get picked, and I have been swamped at work the past few days, so imagine my surprise when I came to check out the new videos I hadn't yet watched. You provided a great list with a lot of things for me to think about, and this comments section is not disappointing, either! That's why you gotta love the knife community! I definitely consider myself a knife guy, but I know the limits of my knowledge, which is why I love KnifeCenter videos. I learn something new in pretty much every video.
And in case anybody is wondering, the front runners from the suggestions in this video are the Rat Model 1, Crawford 1 and Mora Companion Spark.
Happy to help, it was a fun one! -DCA
Mora's are unbeaten, however I stand by my cold steel pocket bushman. It's in my pocket now. It's the most overbuilt folder available. I've carried for 2 years and have trusted that thing with torque I'd never apply to any other folder I've held before. Ive ground a second choil and some jimping. I've tied a monkey fist into the locking mechanism. This allows me three positions to hold the knife in, for fine carving hard use and light chopping. I carry a bandana with me everywhere and that has proved useful to wrap around the handle to prevent hotspots. Love this thing and recommend to any working man
I’ve been thinking about getting one as a back up knife to my fixed blade. How does the edge hold up and is the lock as hard to pull as they say. I only ask because I want my kids to be able to use it.
@@chrisjosekuehl it takes two hands to operate, no way around it. The spring that operated the lock is stiff at first, but it will loosen up, my 8 yo can do it sometimes. It is big in the hands and needs some modding to be comfortable. The blade steel is good. Not great, not bad. Im hard on mine, and it holds an edge through some abuse, relatively easy to sharpen.
@@jimjimson6518 thanks for the info, I’ll be getting on for sure. What mods have you done to yours?
Most overbuilt folder available?
Get out a bit more, mate.
@@CadillacDriver what do you think is the toughest or strongest folder?
I just realized I've been watching this channel for the better part of 2 years now without being subscribed. My bad. Love this channel, as a veteran cook/lifetime knife nerd I always appreciate the fun/new info y'all present. I love the minimizing of production: white room and a laptop with a row of knives. It really helps keep the message about the knives, no bells and whistles, just cool new and old knives.
Don't forget to click on the bell to get notifications!
Advice for the ferro-rod question...
A knife is backup for a striker, not a primary method. The reason for this is simple.
I have excellent first aid skills, because I got to learn them as I was getting treated as a child/teen. I have learned that any time a sharp, pointy, serrated, or similar surface is exposed it is much more likely to cause an "accident " than when in a sheath/folded. Had a person I went to SERE training do that, and I learn from the mistakes of others...
My favorite striker is from a local welding shop. Walked in and asked if they could help me. Ended up with a scrap piece of 5mm plate about 1.5x4" with one end rounded and 90°edge all around. Can (and is) used for so many things, but you don't cut yourself with it accidentally trying to throw sparks.
And if you are going the old "flint & steel" route, you can find sets online.
For the stash everywhere knife i went with the crkt minimalist... they are small enough to fit any kit anywhere but still durable enough to be useful... and the handle comfort is surprisingly good for the size
They sharpen up well too
CRKT 😂😂
I have one in the warncliff style and I love it. The design is super handy. To bad the steel is shit. Not a huge deal just I need to run it on a ceramic rod before ever use. For the price I highly recommend
@@kakashi1234777nah man i can’t justify 5cr anything, if you want a minimalist style knife get the SPEC or SPIT, they come in 8cr13mov or SMKW has the SPEW in d2. there’s also the katana blade shape and the green/blue blade printing/scale models have 8cr13mov instead of that garbage ass 5cr
Was glad to see the Coldsteel pocket Bushman. Great knife. Lot of fun. Most sturdy folder ever.
I can’t think of any other folder under $50 that I would trust to baton with in a survival situation. That thing is a little tank.
The D2 for a knife stashed in a survival kit isn't much of a problem for me. My solution for D2's less than optimal corrosion resistance is paste wax. It doesn't need much. A wipe from a waxy rag goes a long way. Learned that trick from a wood worker who told me how he protects his tools. Works pretty well for pocket knives.
Chapstick is another really cheap option.
Alternatively you could even use nose-grease. 😅
I also purchased a CRKT Pilar from Knife Center. Great service and quality. It is my new love.
I loved Thomas's comments at the end. The wingless mosquito image makes me think of Gary Larsen's cartoon with the frog in a wheelchair.
Totally with you on the Rat 1. Pure function.
Yep. RAT-1 and Mora Companion. Two knives you can never have too many of. Buy them in quantity and stash them everywhere.
I actually loved the answer for the most serious of the day! DCA killed it! 🤣
I would suggest the stainless Mora with the orange accents on the handle, so it's easy to find if you drop it. If it's for a survival kit, then the conditions are likely going to be far from ideal if you end up having to use it.
Get something you can use in the woods in the dark during a rain storm, while you're tired and hungry.
Concur.
The Buck 100 Slim Select is a great choice. It's what I got multiple of and is also my work knife. It holds up to garden hose, small branches, cardboard and the occasional side of a couch or recliner very well. For a fixed blade Cold Steel Canadian Belt Knife. $16 and absolutely amazing.
Building a Go-Bag, or stocking a glove box/car boot? Ontario Rat 1 or 2, or the Honey Badgers. You won't regret it.
Survival? Hiking? Bug out bag? If we talk knives... All you need is quality small fixed blade, sharpener, and victorinox... 👍
Pocket bushman is my toolbox knife. I used it to cut out over 600 square yards of glued carpet last. Lockup is awesome. Steel is soft and doesn’t last super long, but super easy to touch up on a pocket stone I keep next to it. Also if you are thinking about it to carry, a deep carry Shaman clip fits perfectly on it!
I loved this knife and wanted to make it work but I had 2 of them lock up permanently on me. CS knows about the issue and they had allegedly fixed it before I bought a second knife. But the second locked up same as the first.
@@southernsteel4476 that’s crazy and unfortunate. I must have got one that was produced after they fixed it. I definitely used it in a way that would have locked it up if it had the issue. With the spine on the ground, edge side up pushing on the lock through the glued carpet on the ground still. Luckily I haven’t had that issue.
DCA, I've been watching KC videos for a long time now and must disagree with, or at least contest several points you make quite often.
I do a lot of landscaping and outdoor work, usually involving dirt, and while I love fixed blades, they just don't fit well in a pocket.
#1. Washers can get just as much dirt in them as bearings can, and it tends to do more damage to washers than to bearings.
I have unfortunately tested this in the field and found out the expensive way. And I would say tolerances and design play a bigger part in this than the actual mechanism does.
#2. Axis/ cross-bar locks, seem to be a magnet for "stuff" getting wedged behind them. Making them either a fixed blade or a chunk of something that isn't a knife.
This to me is a design flaw, if a small rock can completely stop operation and another knife is needed to fix it.
Liner locks can suffer from debris as well, but Frame locks on the other hand, seem to be impervious to these things.
Basically what I'm trying to say is that a Frame lock flipper on bearings has been almost impossible for me to defeat while an axis-lock on washers only takes me minutes.
No, not everyone is a landscaper but to say that washers are tougher than bearings is simply not true, and a cross-bar lock Might be suited better to those with adversaries in the cardboard form.
Thank you, aaaand Thomas for the great content.
I'm a fellow landscaper. I will say that in my experience washers are less likely to get gritty from dust/dirt/sand/dried mortar mix etc. They are also inherently stronger when it comes to lateral force being applied. I agree that axis locks can get gritty from dust/dirt/mortar but I've never had one fail to function.
For fixed blades, I had been trying to find one that worked for me for a while, and ended up adding quite a few nice fixed blades to the collection that had sheaths that just didn't work for me. I got the KC exclusive Creely Mako in Cruwear this week and have been carrying it in pocket since Tuesday. It works GREAT! If you've been wanting to try a fixed blade that carries in pocket comfortably I would try that one out, I can't recommend it enough.
Love my pocket Bushman. I wrapped handle in denim. Super strong for my camp fun.
I’m a big fan of the Crawford 1. Some folks are hung up on the steel, but it has served me very well, tends to occupy my pocket a lot more than some more expensive knives I have. My Crawford is broken in as well and it flips open very easily and smoothly. I
Like it
DCA said it was 4116 steel but I believe it’s 4034, a budget Japanese product that should be just fine at this price point. I just grabbed one at $29 bucks off an Amazon special and I can’t wait!
I stand corrected… it just arrived. 4116 stamped on it. Love it! Big blade but very light in the hand or pocket. ❤
I'm surprised that the KABAR Dozier folder wasn't mentioned for a kit knife. Great knife for the price point.
Right? The D2 version is right in the middle of their price range.
Recently purchased a SAK Huntsman and then added a suspension clip based on some excellent DCA advise. Love the set up. Great way to pocket EDC a SAK.
For cheap camp/survival knives, the Ontario Camp Plus folders are probably worth putting in the mix almost as a companion knife because they're so stoopid cheap. Could then focus less on a single all-rounder, use the Camp Plus for light food prep stuff and have something more dedicated for the survival use. That'd be my angle on that question.
My stash knife is the Tenacious lightweight. Love it.
I keep Mora Companions in all my outdoor stuff and cars
I stash Moraknivs EVERYWHERE. They are so inexpensive, and even with the carbon steel, a simple lard treatment will help them resist rust for a while even in storage. They are nearly indestructible, and the bright colored handles have been described as "friendly and non-aggressive" and are easy to find in camping settings.
Their sandvik stainless is amazing and very stainless. Can't go wrong with a Morakniv. Wax coating a carbon blade protects it's amazingly and lasts a long time, you don't need much, heated wax melted on an old rag and wipe the blade. Comes off easy, and better than oil for long term storage.
For the survival knife under $50 I would hav to go with the Cold Steel Finn Wolf love the scandi grind and the triad lock I pocket carried one for years and love it
I had a new embarrassing knife story happen since last week. I got the Creely Cruwear Mako from you guys last week. Sat down on the couch to open it. Opened the box and the knife is not shipped inside the sheath, its in what looks like an anti-static bag with a rubber tip protector on the blade. I grabbed the bag to lift it out of the box and the knife shot straight thru the bottom of the bag and landed tip down in the top of my bare footed big toe. I was bleeding pretty bad so I left the knife and went and got bandaged up. Went back to investigate and discovered the knife had cut through the rubber tip protector which allowed it to cut right through the bag as I picked it up.
If you were from New York...youd probably sue them .....
@@yankee23a Instead I sent the maker a friendly email about what happened. Really not sure why the knife isn't shipped in the sheath, it would save cost on packaging and be safer. Can't think of any fixed blades I've bought that weren't packaged within their sheath.
As always, love the video!
"Words are hard." ROFL
And Fly-Away, very clever!
Another great saw knife is the victorionox equinox. My spelling is ish, but I’ve had it for quite a few years and they’re really nice to hold and fairly compact. Definitely recommend
We used to play catch with a knife at school. You’ll be surprised to hear how that ended…. 😊
The neat thing about playing catch with knives is that you don't even need to use your hands to catch it!
Good timing on the first question. I just ordered the "Ganzo G7452P Tactical Folding Knife 440C Blade G10 Handle Axis Lock". It has three things I want to try; it's a Ganzo, thumb studs and axis lock. I realize it's not the best example of any of those, but I couldn't resist at $12!
The Old Timer 970T Buzzsaw has both a plain edge blade and a saw. Love the channel. Keep up the great work.
Folding outdoor knife. Great idea.
I think the knife in my collection that best ticks all the boxes for best budget survival kit knives is the Bestech Komodo. Comes in at $52, really nice and useful blade shape, very strong and comfortable handle, great flipping action and very comfortable and easy to use liner lock.
Funny you mention this knife. Bought one only a few weeks ago after looking at it for some time. Glad I did. Definitely capable of more than just EDC. The handle in particular makes the difference. Bestech make great knives (for their price) so reliability isn't an issue. Have a great day.
@@realbroggo Isn't it a great knife? Very tough to beat at the $50 price point. It's not fancy, it's not a well known Bestech model, and it's not one of those premium knives you can't wait to show off, but it's built like a tank with a nice blade and great flipping action for an awesome price. And Bestech does some of the nicest two tone G10 handle work you'll find on any knife. You're so right about the Komodo's handle too, it's extremely comfortable and solid. Hope you're having a great day too!
Thank you DCA for another great video
I did this several years ago. I got Buck Large Bantams. The handle feels pretty good, it has the same 420HC. It's not really fidgety, but it doesn't need that.
I just made a Bowie knife for my bushcraft chopper.I pair it with my Mora robust and they do great.
Excellent episode. Educational and fun! The first question was an engaging one. I thought you would say Rat1 d
First before the Buck - cool surprise.
I like the cold steel fin wolf, have several laying around in several different colors.
Case has a Hunter Trapper with a plain blade, saw blade & gut hook at a good size for pocket carry. Browning has one with a blade & saw blade also but not sure on the size of the new one. The browning lockback with blade, saw & gut hook from 20ish years ago worked very well but was little large for pocket carry.
Really enjoy the channel. I too would recommend a Mora as a stashed kit knife all day every day. 👍
I recently stapped my favourite neck knife (an ESEE Xancudo) to my ESEE Junglas 2 to store them and realized that it made a really cool pair - a large blade and a neck knife from the same brand. Kinda fun! I then took my Ol' Faithful Becker BK 9 and strapped my little Becker BK11 to it, and I thought, "Hey, that's pretty cool too." And they're something one could grab and head to the woods with just as is. Any interest in showing us some other fun same-branded necker-chopper/large blade combos? Maybe a Scandinavian themed combo? Tactical combo? Could really have some fun with it...
Reallybigmonkey has been doing videos on this for a while. Great concept.
i vouch for both the cold steel kudu and the pocket bushman. the bushmans lock is insane at full blown batoning and that 4116 krupp steel is one of my favorites for how easy it is to use and it holds an edge as well as doesnt rust as easily. i love the kudu because its dirt cheap and its been a staple as a food knife for me on the go
Same. I love all my Cold Steel knives, but I really enjoy the Kudu (I have one in every bag as a back up) and it's never let me down. Same for the Pocket Bushman, I've used mine hard and never had an issue.
Oh my...
Of all my knives my favorite is in this weeks video 🙂. At your past recomendation I purchased the Boker Optima II and also purchased the third blade in Cruwear. Like others inflected with the knife bug, this is my "best of".
Mike
Cruwear rocks!
Thank you Dca for the valuable information
I carry two knives daily, first is a Spyderco Yojimbo 2 for self defense if the need ever arises and the second is a small Cold Steel Kiridashi I use for the every day tasks... cutting open envelopes, boxes, very light prying, etc... I love the Kiridashi but I feel like I need to sharpen it more often that I would like. I was hoping for some options on a new folding EDC about the same/similar size and blade shape as the Kiridashi but with a better steel that did not need as much maintenance and sharpening. Price point I am looking for is between $50 - $150 and I would like to keep it light weight and around 2.5" blade length... Thanks and keep up the great work!
I would recommend the Cold Steel SR1 Lite. heavy duty 4"
8Cr13MoV for $39 on Amazon.
Dca
Like DCA, I am a fixed blade fanatic. My most carried, used and loved knife is my Benchmade Altitude. Ultralight, perfect ergos, jimping in all the right places and incredible edge retention. I scout carry it every day and utilize a pinch grip with my index finger near the tip of the blade for precise cuts all day at work. The carbon fiber finger ramps fit my hand perfectly. I would love to find something comparable but smaller for pocket carry. Minimalist profile, ultralight, ergos/jimping are priorities. Steel is not an issue. I clean and hone my blade regularly and frankly the S90V on my Altitude is overkill… Under $150 preferred.
Hi DCA & Thomas. Another great bunch of cutting tools on the table. Great knife story & mishaps. Perhaps that has open a new catagory in "What you shoudn't do with a Knife".Prevention is better than a cure.! We have always carry a Buck 110, use & abuse it but never cut or stab ourselves. Lesson lived & learn perhaps. Great vid matey. Welcome back Thomas. Warm greetings from Australia.
I feel like the cold steel Sr1 lite should be in this list. Can often find them for less than $40
Bought my son one for boy scouts he loves it
Next level Dad joke at the end
I have a Wenger Ranger 55. Nice saw, locking blade. I think Victorinox has an equivalent.
I bought the Steel Will Modus a year and a half ago and couldn't open it. The detent was insane. I ended up returning it. I own 185 fixed and folding knives.
Thank you again David 🎉
Western knives from back in the day made a great combination knife with blade and saw. The Western 932 has a 4-1/2 blade with a matching saw blade. The one I have came from a small less traveled town where the knife I got was actually the display model. You can still see the spot where the wires held the sheath in place.
DCA, for the second queastion about the saw, you mentioned lockbacks with a blade and saw combo, Mikov from the Czech Republic still make a few in that style. They also make some hunting fixed blades with a folding saw in the handle, but that looks way less practical. (Edit: they even sell their Predator switchblade with a saw on!)
For a folding knife the Buck 110 slim or 112 slim is the choice for me. Stash the orange handle ones for high visibility when you need to grab one and don't want to go hunting around in the glove box or toolbox. For fixed blades absolutely have your favorite Mora available.
The Sanrenmu (SRM) 9019 is another GREAT saw blade utility type camp/hunt knife I can vouch for and highly recommend that has decent Sandvik steel and an excellent basic assortment of tools. The price is very reasonable so you can stash them all over if you want.
Djfugi I’d get ‘em all a civivi praxis for 42.50 a piece or the buck 110 isn’t a bad choice . Actually there are no bad choices here , lol. We all tend to think the knives we have are the best but most knives ar e usually well thought out imo . Every knife is like a song
Mora if want pocket sized the eldris is great!
Blade smith and a word smith. The Rat 1 is "unimpeachable", then butchered it with "lock backable"
Davidable isable justable addingable "able" toable theable endable ofable wordsable.
I do whatever is workable :P -DCA
I love my Badlands Vagabond for its looks and action, but yeah, camping and survival isn't quite the job for it, I think it's best for lighter duty things. I love my CJRB Taiga when I need something beefier but it has bearings too. : ( Still, plenty of good options.
Just coat the d2 with oil for storage if the knife is just sitting there not being used it shouldn't oxidize if it's coated in oil
Mora 511, Ol Hickory hunter, Dexter Russell hunter ! I stopped carrying a folder as a knife to be used. I keep one with my keys 🤷🏻♂️
I Dremel'd off the powdercoating on a section of the top of my TOPS BOB 3.5 making sure it has a sharp spine and it throws sparks just fine. I did the same thing with my original first production TOPS BOB and it throws sparks just fine too. I keep my knives clean and oiled when not in use and no issues with rust at all.
I like the idea of multiple stashes, don't think I really need to buy more knives for this. I could make at least 10 stashes and still have plenty of knives left. All good knives, but a surprise by the time you need the stash!
Yeah, I could leave a Benchmade, Spyderco or Demko in every room of my house, in all my vehicles, and in a bugout bag for the wife and I and all 4 kids and still have a few left over to leave in the collection.
Kershaw Analyst Tanto for the 30-50 dollar range would be my go too. Solid grip and texture, with open assist flipper. Right now on Amazon runs right around 36.59 normally runs 53.99. Has a partial serrated blade as well for helping to cut through some stuff.
What's the best blade steel for someone named Austin?
DCA, you've found yourself lost in the desert with a kit packed by Thomas. Which reverse tanto knife would he have packed for you?
Really love this channel and you've become a significant influence on most of my recent knife acquisitions! Here's something I (and I think many others) would love to see in a future KC FAQ: How do you and your colleagues at TKC store/house/show off your knife collections at home?? I've turned into an accidental knife collector in the past couple years, mostly of the mid-range EDC variety, and my collection is now at 25+ knives. It would be interesting (and informative!) to see you you all at The Knife Center handle your knife storage at home. (Full disclosure... I am a hobbyist woodworker, so I'm on the lookout for knife box/cabinet storage ideas that I could incorporate into a knife box I plan to build in the near future.). Thanks and keep up the good work!
Mora Bushcraft Black. Mora Spark as complement
Folding camping knives… no Opinel suggestions? That’s the go to camping knife!
I’m more of a fixed blade guy when it comes to survival or outdoor purposes. For me, folders are only convenient for edc, even though there are some great bushcraft folders out there.
sir .
enjoy you content immensely.
one choice i use for super inexpensive working bushcraft knives are the hultafors line.
i have the plumbers and the prescision.. both are excellent in the field ,
and both in the uk cost less than 10 pounds..
i highly recommend them.
even over my very expensive bushcraft blades..
thanks mark..
Hello 👋 David, greetings from Northern California. Thank you for previewing the many promotional priced knives. I like the term 'girthier'. If you haven't patented the term, I'm going to use it. The best to you, stay safe and healthy. 🤗
I use Old Hickory butcher/hunting knives in my five gallon bucket emergency stashes. Some packs in vehicles, I use bayonets. Not much better field knife than a battle-proven bayonet. I like the bolo blade style of the F8, but there are some masterful trench art examples out there, too. A nice, pointy bayonet is good for probing when metal detecting, too. I have pilot survival knives tucked away here and there, as well. One is on my daily gun belt for moseying around the ranch here.
Puma knives. Folding hunter very close resemblance to the Buck 110. I remember they had a model with the main blade and a saw blade side by side. 👍👍
The Buck 780 Exert is a great knife for this. I've found them to be very tough, cheap, and throws a great spark.
DCA, was wondering if you could do a segment on the best fixed edc neck knives out there (I'll admit I'm not sure if you've already covered this, but if not...).
Another idea would be a segment featuring "mechanical" or "kinetic" opening knives like the CRKT provoke, though I don't know if there's even enough of a selection out there to make a video about them.
Also, a stupid knife story I have happened to me recently, and it was quite bad.
I was trying to remove a Mora sloyd carving knife (they're longest version) with a wood handle from it's sheet.
It's a long sloyd knife, so it has about a 3" blade that is really slender and tapers down to a fine point, it is EXTREMELY sharp.
I always coat any knife I have that has wood handles with some boiled linseed oil or mineral oil, and this knife had been sitting in a drawer for a good 6 months unused. I guess the mineral oil had slightly expanded the wood handle to where it was very difficult to remove from the sheath.
I was trying to be careful as I knew this was a potentially dangerous situation.
I was trying to use the least amount of force to unsheath it as opposed to yanking it out with all my force and potentially cutting myself.
Well, that backfired.
It eventually popped out but because I was trying to minimize the force i was using and pull it out in a controlled manner, after it popped out I basically unintentionally pushed it back forward from trying to pull it out without too much force and ended up pushing the tip of the blade really hard against the index finger of my hand holding the sheath and cut myself REALLY deep. Seriously, I was surprised I couldn't see the bone, I thought I would.
I cut the tip of my index finger at least 1/4" deep, it was bad and it was bleeding like crazy. Had to use 3 bandaids because the first 2 filled up with blood immediately.
Anyway. I made sure that when I put it back in its sheath I did so very gently to hopefully avoid this from happening again.
Sorry that happened, but in my opinion trying to remove a sheathed knife "carefully" is the most likely way to stab yourself when it finally breaks free and you attempt to stop the recoil. I always draw a sheathed knife with one strong continuous pull and never try to stop the pull until my hands are spread apart. As long as your hands are moving in opposite directions its almost impossible to cut yourself. You might lose grip of the sheath or the knife but you won't cut yourself.
@@arrowheadguys7637 True, good point. I'm definitely not going to repeat that again. The whole reason I ended up cutting myself, like you mentioned was because I was trying to counteract the force of it popping out. Like you said, it definitely would be much safer to just pull them apart without trying to fight any of the recoil.
@@SweetTooth8989 Trust me, I know exactly what you were trying to do because I've done the exact same thing!
Come on DCA, you're missing one of the best woods/bushcraft folders out there with a saw: the Victorinox Farmer. Excellent saw, and a parallel awl that makes an incredible ferro rod striker.
I have developed some patina on my Cruwear blade, and I am wanting to put a acid etch and a stonewash on it. Would these small rust/patina spots cause any problems while acid etching and stonewashing my blade? Can they turn into rust underneath a stonewashed finish?
At least by catching the blade in the leg you saved it from being damaged from hitting the floor. As for my 'go to' bulk purchase folding knife, I use the RAT 1 & 2 depending on what size I want. Cheap, hard use and easy to maintain. As for a similar fixed blade I use either Mora Basic or Companion for all the same reasons. Problems throwing sparks - check the quality of your ferro rod. Users often worry about the knife & not the rod. Some cheap ferro rods are poor sparkers. Buy a quality ferro rod. Sharp blades everyone.
Yep- good point. Meat will grow back!!🤣🤣🤣
Okay that interchangeable boker was cool
I got a Victorinox Evogrip S18 on eBay awhile back, it's perfect for the car first aid kit. Good blade, great scissors, can opener & cap lifter, mini saw. Great for working with bandages, opening packets, etc. I'm not a fan of the T-style Phillips screwdriver, but it'll do in a pinch.
S18 has been my daily SAK for quite a few years now. Fantastic little thing! -DCA
The clever knob on the Morakniv sheaths.
Hello DCA! You have mentioned the Moraknive many times on the channel but I have never seen you mentioning the clever little knob on many Morakniv sheaths.
That knob is so that you can click another sheath on to the first one so that you can tandem hang them! (Or theoretical triple or quadruple hang them). I use this feature a lot, for example I could have a really sharp knife in on sheathe that I only use for strict cutting tasks, and in the other sheet I can have a knife for those scraping or prying tasks that you really should not use a knife for, but do any way.
Or if I am wood working I could have a Morakniv Basic in one sheath and the chisel variant (M-12250) in the other. Plus many more options. Thought it could be worth mentioning.
Show idea, if it hasn’t already been done. Love to see all the different mora options available. Interesting show. Allen
DCA, I have a Kershaw Scallion with the stainless steel blade and I am trying to give it a black finish. I have been trying the Birchwood Casey blackening for stainless steel (Presto Black SSB) and it turns the blade black but the oxide will rub off with medium pressure. Are there ways to seal the knife so that the black oxide layer will stay on during normal use? I tried soaking the blackened parts in boiled linseed oil but that also did not hold the oxide to the surface. I am now trying the process again but using a penetrating concrete sealer. Are there better ways to turn stainless steel blades/liners black that won't just flake off like paint? I am wary of using heat on blade steel.
A good pocket knife for a survival kit is a KA-BAR dozier 4062 lockback pocket knife. With A 3.0 inch Aus-8 stainless steel blade.
Ranger Wood is great, but if you want cheaper & plain edge & one hand opening, the Ranger Grip 79 has a smooth blade, saw, and *relatively* cheap (Victorinox says $79 MSRP).
Stash: Camillus keto flipper? Seems to check a lot of boxes. Not sure of the pivot. Washer? Ball bearing? I prefer washers for all the stated reasons. Size, weight seem good. Price is good for buying in bulk.
There is a version of the Mikov Praktik with a locking blade and a locking saw.
Cold Steel Pocket Bushman would NOT be my choice after reading reviews about it
I EDC a Spyderco Resilience, a wonderful large blade good for survival, in addition I have a Victorinox Deluxe Tinker & an extra small folding saw
my next choice would be the Ontario Rat for folder & the lower priced Mora for a fixed blade in addition to a folding saw
Hi David, I'd love to see a vidio on slip joints "with Pocket Clips"... new love for them and don't see much to choose from. Thanks!
Best bang for you buck. At what point ($$$) do you get diminishing returns on performance. Yes, you get what you pay for, but why a $60 knife over a $30, why $120 vs an $80. Call it a "Hi/Low" challenge.
I've got a good ques for you. How about a recommendation for a somewhat small, portable knife that could be used to protect self from an animal such as a bear or small coyote. Knife must be small enough to be placed in a small bag, like if you go Mtn biking in the woods. Or, must be able to put in pocket or be comfortable on your belt for hiking/camping in the woods.
The cold steel bushman knife is the best
cheap knife for a kit? The Mora is the choice. If you need it smaller you can get an Eldris.
I purchased a Milwaukee Fast-Back Drop Point recently. I thought it was going to just be a button lock like their utility knives but it also has a liner lock. Every once in a while when I flick it open the liner lock goes past the back of blade and jams up. Can this happen on regular knives over time? Is it the lock that wore out or was the geometry of the blade not proper to stop it? Also are there other knives out there that use both a button lock and liner lock?
Its either poor QC or poor design. I've had Bokers with the same problem, and 1 spyderco compression lock that suffer from overtravel and lockstick.
Hi DCA, I get told by people I talk to about folding knives that Slipjoints are more dangerous than locking knives, for you and knife centre staff who have cut themselves with Slipjoints or locking knives? Are Slipjoints cutting more people than locking knives?
Hi DCA. My mother (aged 82) recently complained that her thumb is too weak to close her liner lock flippers. She currently uses a Kizer Lieb and an Artisan Cutlery Shark 3”. She loves the excellent flipping action of both knives but needs to close them two-handed. I suggested buying her a button lock flipper which I think is easier for her. Can you recommend one which fits her smaller than average hands? Budget around 100$ but I am willing to pay more for a perfect fit. Thanks
Do you have a knife shop anywhere nearby where she could try one out first? My grandma lost a lot of the "meat" in her fingers when she got up over 80 - it wasn't just the strength but her fingertips were like soft grapes. I have a Kizer Swayback that works fine in my little hands (I'm not 80+). That might be a good candidate for her - the button sticks out far enough when it's open that she could press on it with the side of her thumb knuckle if her fingertip won't do it. But if you could take her shopping that might be best.
Check out the Civivi Altus! If she wants a flipper instead of thumbstuds then the Civivi Cogent. The WE Culex has both and is that 3" size thats probably what she is after, but its about double your budget.
What knife would you recommend for someone who breaks their knife all the time? Average to large size knives and extra large.