Tips and Tricks for Mounting Canvas to Board - Urban Life - Ep. 18
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- Опубліковано 14 тра 2020
- In this video I'll show you how to mount a loose piece of canvas to a board. I'll share with you some tips and tricks so that you can do it yourself easily, affordable, and get a high quality result. I will show you using a canvas that has already been painted on, but you can do the exact same thing with blank canvas and make your own panels.
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Helpful. Thankyou! Loved the artwork as well! Have a great day!
Thank you! Glad it was helpful! Please read the comments in addition because I have found small improvements to my process since I made this video.
Get yourself a lino print roller to push out air bubbles. I apply modge podge or even gesso to both sides with a credit card and then roll baby, roll!
Oooo! What a great idea!!!
Clare and precise instructoons and easy to follow you , without unnecessary comments which sometimes can cofuse me .
Thank you so much
Glad it was helpful!
Great tips, especially using a window.
Hi Naomi! Great, simple video. Another tip on making sure a board is square before or after cutting, especially if you do not have a Carpenter's Square is to measure opposite corner marks. It should come out to the same measurement when measuring your corners diagonally. 😀
Great tip! Thanks!
Thanks. Very helpful.
You're welcome!
Hello Tiry ! I mounted a canvas on an aluminium board and it worked out very well!
Excellent! That's great news!
Hi. Great video! I'm an artist who happens to be a woodworker. Here are some good tips. Clamp down your straight edge where you can score with a razor knife. Use the straight edge as a guide for a circular saw. Another trick is to use blue painter's tape applying it on both sides of the panel. You can mark on the tape and see your cut line and once you peel the tape after the cut, it will be nice and clean. That way you won't have to do a lot of sanding. Use a circular saw if possible. It's a little better than a jig saw which has a lot of blade deflection which can sometimes give you an uneven cut. But sometimes it's best to use what you have without having to buy expensive tools. I like using plywood panels. In my opinion they are easier to work with, rigid, durable, and archival. Many of the old masters painted on wood panels, like DaVinci, and their works are fine after 500 yrs.
Those are good tips! Thanks for sharing!! I hope people read through the comments because the collective wisdom of everyone is so much richer than the video I made couple years ago. I don’t even adhere canvas this way anymore!
Can you tell us how you adhere the canvas' now? Thanks so much!!!@@TirySalgadoFineArt
Sure! I found a local wood shop that will deal with cutting my panels exactly. It has saved me a lot of headaches with the cutting part. I seal the wood panel with GAC100, a Golden product. To adhere the linen to the board, I use a product called ArchivaBond from canvaspanels.com. It goes on more like Elmer's glue. I apply a thin coat with a small roller to both the sealed panel and the back of the linen. Then smooth it out, apply flat pressure while drying, and trim after dry just like my video showed. @@pattim6807
Thank you so much!!!
Greetings,
I have a canvas print I want to mount 20"×28". I was trying to figure out what's best, mounting with glue on a panel vs stretching. I think I get it now, stretching is for much larger canvases.
Thank you for creating this video tutorial.
Regards,
Christos
You're right--panels are good for small sized pieces because if they get to large, they get heavy and also run the risk of warping. Stretched canvas solves those issues on large-sized works. However, you can definitely use stretched canvas for a small piece and a panel for a large piece (if you put a brace on the back and make sure your mounting system can handle the weight). Your 20x28 canvas would be a medium sized piece, which could go either way. Would you have enough extra canvas around the edges to be able to stretch it? You would need an extra 2-3" on each side. Otherwise a panel would work for this size as well. You might want to consider 1/2" gator board as a support.
thank you
Thanks for your great tips. Do you know how to hang the panels with foam board hangers or do you use any other pins for hanging the panels. Please let me know. I'm working on panels and I don't know which one to use
So far, I have only hung framed panels. Or if unframed, I have them in a flip box. But I’ve seen UA-cam videos on ideas for hanging unframed panels. Good luck! Let me know what you find.
Useful video
Glad you like it!
Thanks a lot for the great done, just asking what outer frame do you suggest for the further framing, is it L shaped frame or module one ?
You're welcome! I just want to make sure I understand your question--I think you're asking if I recommend an L-shaped frame (also called float frame) or a traditional frame (where the frame sits on top of the panel)? If this is the question, my answer is that for thin panels like the one I made, the traditional frame is better. Now, if this linen was glued to a cradled panel (deep profile), then the float frame is better. I also prefer float frames for gallery wrapped (deep) stretched canvas.
Hello and thanks for the great video! Do you think it would be a good idea to mount a raw canvas on board? Would it stick well to the board? What about gluing on cardboard? Thanks so much!
Very good question! I wish I had mentioned this in the video! It’s no t a good idea to glue raw canvas and here’s why: you will still need to seal the canvas (to protect from the paint degrading the fibers). When you seal it, the canvas will shrink/change shape slightly. You want all the shifting to happen when the canvas is free and able to move as it wants. If wait to seal it until after it’s been glued down, it will become a physics competition: is the shrinking stronger or weaker than the glued bond or the wood integrity? I’ve never tried this, but my guess is that it will warp the panel. If you have materials lying around, you could try it and let me know what happens! Now I’m curious!
Mounting raw canvas is somewhat of a misnomer, in terms of what you might actually be doing when it comes to glues... No matter what you are gluing, first seal the panel appropriately. Shellac or urethane, PVA or RSB, (rabbit skin glue) doesn't matter. Then you can use PVA or RSB to glue the canvas directly to the surface, most of the time, treating both sides of the canvas with the glue, to further protect it from the oil medium later. You may then prime as normal. The masters used RSB to seal both panel and canvas's before an oil based primer went down. FYI
If you are mounting finished works of art, then you might want to use some kind of reversible glue, like RSB.
What is the thickness of the board. Did the canvas warp it? Also what type of board is it? Plywood?MDF etc. I know some of these may have chemical that will leech into the painting or the the glue provide a sufficient barrier to the migration of chemicals from the wood panel?
You can use any type of board-wood, metal, gator board-but any type of wood needs to be sealed to keep the resin in the wood from coming into the canvas/paint. I used shellac to seal a bigger board and then cut it down into smaller pieces (save time). This particular board is 1/8” plywood, but it only works for small sizes. Use a thicker board for larger paintings. Once it gets really large, it will get too heavy-then a stretcher bar is better. The canvas needs to be sealed also so that the paint doesn’t destroy the canvas.
Can you show the process of framing the ones that you mount like this
Good idea! I’ll make a video about this!
I had an MDF panel stored in my studio (garage) that in just a few weeks, got covered in a green and black mold coat.. it was truly scary to see it happen as I've just moved to a very humid region. I wonder how should I prime the back of my MDF panel, in order to prevent all my future work from deteriorating? 😪
oh dear! that is very concerning! I'm wondering if MDF would be a good support for you...I don't know if a coating would be good enough protection for the long term in that extreme humidity. Perhaps try a metal support? Ive heard of people having good luck with a product called Di-bond. It's used for outdoor sign-making, so can stand up to wet/humid conditions. Once you sand the di-bond, it would be your call on whether you glue canvas to it or just gesso the metal panel. I'm thinking that since canvas could grow mold, it would be safest to just gesso the sanded metal. In addition to di-bond, there are other metal supports: aluminum and copper. Good luck and happy painting!
Don’t use standard MDF as it absorbs moisture, expands and blows out as mush. Go for the green type which is moisture resistant or a good quality marine plywood.
Naomi, I just got a French easel and have some canvas pads. I don’t want to permanently keep the canvas pad on a panel as I am practicing. What do yo I suggest I do so I can have a flat surface to attach the canvas pad to and then set up on the French easel?
I would get a piece of 1/4” plywood, masonite or mdf slightly larger than your canvas sheets. You can sand it and finish it so the surface doesn’t impact your painting by having a wood grain texture or something. Then use painters tape to tape the canvas down to the board all the way around. It will make a nice crisp edge when you pull the tape off after you’re done painting. Happy painting!
@@TirySalgadoFineArt awesome idea! 🙏
Thank you Tiry! can we make the same with aluminium panels too?
I’ve never tried aluminum, but I think it would work the same. I’m guessing the metal wouldn’t need to be sealed first.
@@TirySalgadoFineArt THANK YOU VERY MUCH, Tiry!
Of course! If you try it with aluminum, let me know how it works-I’m curious!
Tiry you have a Portuguese family name...do you speak this language? I knew from a Portuguese Painter (teacher in London), that this is the new law for framing canvases - museums are starting to replace wooden frame by metallic pannels...and I'm curious to try it
@@TirySalgadoFineArt
Katia Krebs that’s really good to know! I’ll have to look into sources for aluminum. My married name is from Mexico. I didn’t realize it is also Brazilian!
Hi there, can you tell me what brand of PVA glue you used? Also, have you used acrylic glass medium to glue fabric to panels. Thank you.
Hello! I use Miracle Muck PVA glue. I believe the company is Raphael. I have had good success with it so far. I have not tried using acrylic gloss medium for attaching fabric to panels, but it could be an option. Have you tried it? I would think it would be archival, but not sure if there would be other considerations.
@@TirySalgadoFineArt thanks for the reply. I know there are cracking problems if oils are applied over GAC100 or gloss medium (via Gamblin...video here and their article at Just Paint). I would think a PVA acid-free glue as a size on top of the fabric would mitigate any cracking.
I'm going to try gel medium as well as some acid-free glues I bought.
@@LynnePriceStudio cool!! Let me know how the different options turn out! I’m curious!
@@TirySalgadoFineArt will do!
what is per gsm of linen canvas to attach on plywood for large painting in egg tempera?
Let me know if I understand your question: you’re asking which weight of linen is best to attach to plywood for an egg tempera painting? Am I understanding correctly?
First of all, I don’t know anything about egg tempera. Maybe there is another youtuber who does egg tempera? They would know if a smooth or rough surface is better.
However, I do know this: you can use any weight of canvas that will you want for your desired surface. Because the linen is getting the support of the board, it doesn’t have to be strong and structural. The linen is only there for the looks, the board is doing all of the work.
Just got some primed canvas on a roll. It's so stiff and it curls. Do you have a hack to get it to lay flat? Thanks
If you’re affixing it to panel, it won’t matter. Nor if you’re stretching it. But otherwise, you can cut it to the size you want, lay a clean smooth piece of plywood over it, and weight it down (I use my art books.). Might take a few days, but it should flatten somewhat. I don’t recommend rolling backwards because you might crack the priming. If you do that, I would recommend an additional coat of primer just in case.
@@TirySalgadoFineArt thank you, I'll try to weigh it down. I'm taking a trip and just packing linens to tape on a panel, it will weigh less than 16 panels, they're just so curly and stiff. Thanks for your response.
This might seem a bit stupid but, which side of the board am I supposed to paste? There's a smooth and a rough side.
I think it will be on the smooth side but still wanted to confirm it.
Use the smooth side. Just make sure to seal it first with a clear sealer so that no discoloration from the board comes up through the canvas. I glossed over it quickly in my video, but I think it's important. I like to use GAC-100 by golden for this.
@@TirySalgadoFineArt Thank you very much! I will do the same.
Can you mount canvas to foam core? How about Gatorboard?
Yes to both! I would just recommend you use acid-free, archival quality versions. I have listened to debates about the archival quality of Gatorboard--some think it is and others think it isn't--I personally haven't done sufficient research to guarantee the use of it.
I was using spray glue 😮 but found lumps...any idea how I can remove the glue without damaging the painting?
Well, shoot! That’s a bummer! Can you make one or two mock versions so that you can experiment on what will work without damaging the actual painting? I’d try two things-try peeling off the painting gently and also try different solvents to see if the spray glue you used could be dissolved with damaging the paint.
Any suggestions for gluing canvas over Masonite board ?
Yes! I think you can do it the same way. I haven’t personally used Masonite, but I have friends who do. I think you would want to seal the smooth side with shellac and let it dry before gluing on the canvas. The shellac forms a boundary so that anything that isn’t archival, won’t bleed to the canvas.
@@TirySalgadoFineArt that sounds like too much work lol
I have pre gessoed boards I wanted to put some canvas over .
Roger Thornhill do it! The gesso is the seal.
@@TirySalgadoFineArt yep now I got it!
Thanks for your time,
I disagree with the statement at 4:31, (checking for square). A parallelogram, which is an unsquare rectangle, will give the same equal measurements. Even the time honored carpenter method of opposite corners may not ensure that your panels are square. Personally, I use a carpenter's framing square but I think that even a small try square would work. On panels the square is used to ensure that the corners are square before making the cut and then checking again after the cut. Hopefully this helps.
That’s a good suggestion. Thanks for commenting!
I was thinking of that too. Glad you said something. :)
The best way to ensure square is to set up a table saw so that it is square and then you can be sure that the cuts are all 90s. I recommend the five cut method for testing your table saw fence for true 90.
How do you mount canvas to canvas !?!? Please help
I’ve never done that before. Why do you want to mount one canvas on top of another? To reuse the panel?
@@TirySalgadoFineArt I’m adding two paintings together to make 1
Phil cool! Well, hmmm... I think it would work by making a wood panel that fits both canvases. Then glue them butting them right up together. I recommend the paste more than glue so that the liquid in the glue doesn’t cause a tiny bit of shrinkage, which will accentuate the crack between the paintings. After it’s all fully dry, you might still need to fill in the crack. I’ve never done this before. But check out some of Baumgartner Restoration projects. He fills in almost every project that he does (this is a painting conservation channel on UA-cam that is so satisfying to watch.).
@@TirySalgadoFineArt thank you!!
u coming back to yt?
I’m hoping to this winter. I’m a working Plein Air artist and spring, summer, fall are very busy. I started youtube in 2020 when everything was shutdown. So I need to find a new rhythm when everything is happening.
@@TirySalgadoFineArt wow thanks for the reply and the information looking forward to your videos
Nice but too much work for me and especially not having those tools
I completely understand! If it’s just needing tools that’s holding you back, you can try working with Gatorboard which can be cut with a utility knife. It still is a lot of work! If it’s just too much, you can buy some nice ready-made panels as well. Happy painting!
Don’t mount canvas to board. Just prime the board or use oil board. Gesso on Masonite is the safest . Then put red acrylic as your primer.
Canvas is bad stuff. It moves and it cracks in time, no matter what. Go to museums and look at the cracklature on the 18c. Paintings. Then go to the 17c Dutch paintings on panel. Perfect condition.
You can certainly do it that way as a personal preference. However, I would not go so far as to say that canvas is “bad” or won’t last. Properly handled canvas will last just as long as panels. The cracking comes from improperly layering (not following fat over lean rules and materials issues). This can happen no matter what surface you’re working with. Some epochs of art history did a better job of the “craft” of painting than others and that’s why we see such differences in the cracking.
I had the privilege of chatting with an art museum conservator once, and I point blank asked what would be the best surface to paint on from a longevity perspective. The answer surprised me...actually stretched canvas with a dust board on the back! The reason being: stretched canvas can be easily relined. Now, I realize this can be debated as stretched canvas can subject the paint layer to movement which can weaken it also. But that is what she said.
Anyway, all that being said, painting on gesso panels is great if that’s your thing! Do it! It’s a lot more affordable!
@@TirySalgadoFineArt Fine cracking on canvas is likely because the paint is 200 years old, brittle, and the canvas does flex. That's why dealers always give you a 10% discount for every $100 million work, LOL. Panels can warp, rot, mold, etc. as well, and paint may flake. Basic good practices, acid free materials, is fine for the vast majority who are never making pricey masterworks, my scholastic canvases with lots of Liquin as medium and glazes are fine after 35 years. Jackson Pollock used lots of house paint, and when your works command stratospheric valuations, conservators will figure out ways to cope with your technical deficiencies, I guarantee.
@@z1522 yes, you're right...as paintings age, they just don't look young anymore (a lot like humans! haha!) Conservators can do amazing things to restore paintings. I just try to make material and technique choices so that someday a conservator isn't cursing my name under their breath. 😁
Hi Naomi
Hello!
very hard to hear
Sorry about that. I’m an oil painter, not a videographer.
You went from the fastest, best tool for the job, (a table saw) to literally the worst tool for smooth straight edges that there possibly could be. Really, the jigsaw is the worst. A hand saw cuts a better line.
"Yes" paste is a adhesive, not a glue. The difference? Glue works by creating long lasting physical "latches" or crystals that penetrate into the surface area of the opposite surface you are gluing it to, bonding them after the catalyst cycle is complete. An adhesive is a goo that basically does the same thing, but the goo only works when it has moisture still inside it's composition, then it reverts back to a powder form... and the picture falls off. "Yes" paste is a wax based paste, and this will slow the process, but it will still happen.
You did not seal the wood at all...? You stated this would be archival and professional?
Speaking of quality, if you use a straight razor to cut along the edge from the FRONT side, (pushing into the panel not outward from it) using the board as a guide, you get a much better line because you are trimming front to back, and the tearout will be onto the edge of the panel, not on the front of your artwork.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! I guess I still have a lot to learn! Hopefully the folks reading the comments will be able to learn this too. I actually prefer painting than making panels, I just do it to get a better quality product for less money.
P.S. I absolutely seal the panel. I just seal the large 4x8 when I bring it home to save time. I did mention this, but it must not have been clear because others have commented the same thing.
@@TirySalgadoFineArt when dealing with panels it's important to seal all the sides including the edges... I enjoy painting more than making the panel myself, however, the panel is the basis for which the artwork is going to reside if you don't have a strong foundation you're not going to have a strong piece the ground should reflect what the final piece's goal is. You can skirt this as much as you like, but in the end your artwork will show it.
Chris Griffith my first panels I sealed every side including the edges because I assumed that would make a higher quality panel. However, I bought some high quality panels because I got busy. They were only sealed on one side and came with a note saying that the reason is so that trapped moisture can escape to prevent dry rot. Since then I have been following the experts.