I loved this video. I worked as a trim carpenter for many years and my days were spent cutting one miter after another- door frames, base boards, crown moldings,etc. It never occurred to me to paint or color the insides of the miters in order to help hide any ill fitment. That's a great idea and I'm wondering why I never thought of it. But then, that's the reason we watch these videos.....to learn from each other. Thanks again.
Framing is one of the most most valuable skills any artist can have. I worked at a gallery for years doing custom framing. I can’t even calculate how much money I’ve saved being able to do this myself.
I love how I'm not even through the first minute of this video and the first tip is effectively "get a job at a framers, then when you leave rob them blind" I think this is gonna be a great video.
These are all offcut pieces they were getting rid of and practically begged us to take home. Most of them are too short or beat up to use for customer projects, but they work great for small home projects!
I've never actually thought about doing my own frames, but you make it look so easy and good so i will definitely try this myself .. Thank you very much Jen! ❤️.
Wonderful video. The Logan tool for adding the corner metal supports is a wonderful solution for us home framers! The simple tip of measuring the hanging wire distance to the top edge and noting on the back will save lots of guessing. And the colored wax to mask the miter corners is an eye opener. I hope all DIY framers find this video. You did a great service for us all. Thank you!
Tested covers such a wide variety of information. As she was talking about the pointing gun, it occured to me this is exactly what I've been looking for. I've been restoring an old hutch and cabinets with leaded window panes. They're loose and I've been trying to figure out if I can somehow nail them back into place... Turns out all I need is some framing tools and inspiration. Who could have figured that reinstalling a glass pane is the same as framing a painting... Thanks tested!!
you can get very similar points for the point gun called glaziers points for that purpose. they're shorter to be more hidden as you wont have artwork in the way to hide them.
I'll second the glazers points. If you only have a few to do (don't have further use for the gun), and the wood isn't too hard, you may also be able to use push points.
🇨🇦/🇺🇸... Hi Jennifer! My artist parents owned a Picture Framing business and Gallery, back in Canada. Seeing as I'm getting closer and closer to retirement (without much of a retirement fund at all... common these days) I've been thinking carefully about a retirement business that I'd ACTUALLY enjoy, rather than my present day job which sucks the life out of me. Because my hobby has always been photography and as I've occasionally done my own framing and have some equipment already, I've been thinking about doing this more seriously as my business. So, I've enjoyed watching your video. It brings back pleasant memories of my parents' business. Thanks!
I just watched this for the second time, to pick up some more points before planning out a few of my own projects. I'd love to see a followup on this, with more on matting choices, how big a mat border you want, color choices, etc. Cutting special mat boards has let me recycle thrift store frames for art of my choice.
Pro enough for me! Was looking for someone who not only knew what to do, but how to TEACH others! You touched on every possible scenario, and I really appreciate this tutorial! 😉 5⭐
I'm an amateur wood worker, that wax at the end is totally going to take my stuff to the next level. I think I'll give a frame a shot sometime, there's a lot to know. Awesome video!
Good job! I've been a professional picture framer for 35+ years and I saw only a few things that I would correct on your video, but otherwise you did a great job using hobbiest tools and turning out nice basic frame job. Ps... shop garage sales or offer up type sites for used corner clamps. They are $100 new, so $50 or less is a pretty good deal. You might even find a frame shop that's closing. 😉
I think my main gripes would be the glazing (there’s no excuse to not use UV protective glass,) and the implication that acid-free=good protection. There’s SO MUCH that goes into actually protecting art in a pro framing job beyond just “acid-free,” which is a bit scary. If folks have valuable stuff, it shouldn’t be framed DIY.
Recently made a really nice free-floating frame from some ancient white oak an elderly neighbor had in their barn. It was a copy of a design I saw in a frame shop I couldn't afford. The design called for a side bevel so I used the table saw with an improvised jig, this put angular pressure on the blade causing the marking to be left. I was okay with the design being rustic this time so I left it. Right now it is just glued together and seems somewhat strong. I likely need to brace the joints further, which is why I came here. I'll likely attempt a bow tie insert (never done one), BUT this tool looks like a MUST HAVE.
Man, I'm Shortcut Sam over here! If I even decide to frame my stuff, I just do quick 45s with my chop saw, glue and blast finish nails through the side. Your method is WAY more professional and clean looking. =)
This was super informative, thank you! I've wanted to frame a number of things over the years but, never had a few hundred just lying around to have this some day piece framed. Very grateful you shared your knowledge!
How to frame artwork at home like a professional: First, get a job working for several years to learn how to build frames. Take scrap parts home to collect for years until you have a good stock. Make sure you have a saw that can be adjusted for exact angle cuts. If you don't have premade frame scraps from the previous job, you'll need a router to cut the channel for the glass. Buy a pressing tool to secure the V-nails evenly A source of compressed air to clean the artwork and plexi or glass before assembling. This is a great video, and Jen is fantastic as an instructor and going step by step. My issue here is that this is NOT a way to professionally frame artwork at home. This is setting up a professional framing shop, regardless of where you're at. It's like Adam saying "This is a simple process that anyone can do" before proceeding to use his lathe and mill.
Hate to break it to you, but even this setup doesn’t pass the sniff test of a pro framer. The glazing (“glass”) is completely unacceptable, the “acid free” (as opposed to fully archival) material... I won’t even get into the saw, it would get me all twitchy.
We had a nice corner clamp in the frame shop I worked at as well as foot chop saw with a very long bed that measures and makes your sides are at equal length. I find doing it at home is much harder and want to make a jig for the table saw. The clamp we had was set down and even with a flat work surface to support the rest of the frame. One corner at a time. We used glue and I pre drilled with a hand crank drill using a finish nail. We use a tack hammer and punch to set nails. If we could use the under pinner (foot operated air powered one) we did so with glue. I have a underpin v-nail set up from Rockler that is fairly cheap and works well for project. That press that you have is nice. I have many in line! I also (many years ago) found a used mat cutter. The same one we had the in the frame shop. Very cool, but I don't have a good place to store it.
The bad news here if you don't want to use UV glass its hard to buy from frame shops. I get glass from the glass shop or I get a bigger junk frame from the goodwill or garage sale and cut.
Yeah this isn’t the half of it! I have a frame saw (not a mere miter saw) with special blades, a “CNC” matte cutter, a 40X60 heat vacuum press, endless specialty tapes, adhesives, fasteners, papers, tools... I entered the industry a few years back with no idea, but yeah. To say it’s complex is a huge understatement.
Framers are also pushed into the printing business which is an entirely new learning curve and investment in equipment. Printers, scanners, cameras, pc and software, and lessons to make it all calibrated and working right, which all has to have space in your brain next to the knowledge of how to work with anything a person might bring in and put it in a frame without damaging it. Built my first frame in the 2nd grade, still framing at 53, and still learning.
@@kegs357 printing is a fantastic add-on service. We see many things come in that are too risky (or expensive) to restore directly, but a high-res scan with digital touch-ups or even an off-axis photo reproduction can solve many issues. Sometimes it’s safer to frame a touched up reproduction and keep the original in an archival envelope.
Honestly these are tools for hobby framing. Logan makes tools for more the home framer. Hundreds of dollars were spent on the tools in this video. Professional equipment is thousands and thousands of dollars. As an example the joiner used in this video probably sells in the $200 range. A professional v-nailer would cost at least $1500 for a good used one. Just wanted to state the difference. People have no idea how much is invested in a framing business.
yay perfect timing, im going to frame up a dozen zig saw puzzles for my grandfather before he puts them back in the box. thanks for the tips ajen, massive help
Very interesting and professional advise I have lots of vintage prints that I have wanted framed but at over a hundred pound a frame you have given me inspiration to give it a go myself
I've been picture framing for 5 years, some great tips and tricks here. If you wanna streamline, get your artwork mounted up first, then just cut lengths by holding up to the outside and marking the moulding
Didn’t realize there were so many diverse picture frame tools. My grandfather was a carpenter and my grandmother was a teacher/artist. My grandfather made her artwork frames. From shaping the raw wood to assembling the frame. Instead of v-nails he used Hillman joint fasteners. Interesting side bit of info - his sister was Justin Wilson’s first wife, Lallie.
Professional framer here, nice video on the basics. I think it also really drives home the value of having a pro do it for you though. If you’ve not used these tools or materials before, it takes a lot of practice to do framing at a high quality, and even more experience to know how to maintain the tools. This stuff will totally serve some artists well, but there are LOTS of mediums that need special approaches (not covered here) to be framed safely. And it goes without saying, but original art of any value gets a whole slew of additional protection in the form of archival materials and techniques, which this basic approach absolutely doesn’t come close to. Do you really want even your $100 photograph to yellow, fade or color bleed just to save a few bucks by going DIY? Acid free isn’t even the tip of the iceberg, it’s a LOT more complicated than that. I do this every day. My framing saw (not a miter saw) and my blades are dialed in to less than a hair from perfect at all times. I know how to manipulate a warped or bowed frame in my clamps to still produce a perfect corner. My mats are all cut on on a CMC (like CNC for matteboards,) and I’ve dialed that in to the hundredth. The lowest quality glazing (glass or acrylic) that any frame shop will use is still 99% UV protective, and we have fantastic museum glass which practically disappears which isn’t that much more expensive. Painters certainly can do their own frames, if they properly varnish their work. Paper medium (photo/ink/pencil/etc.) can probably also do it too, but please get UV glass at minimum and always space your art so it doesn’t touch the glass. If you have delicate stuff (cross-stitch, charcoal, weaving, precious documents....) just go to a pro. It can also be really beneficial to get a framer’s aesthetic opinion, we frame stuff all the time and have developed great eyes for what compliments your art. Also my special dust cover trimmer is totally a standard raw razor blade. Some things are faster by “feel” when you do it 100 times a day. Also you want some angle on your wire, not straight across. Also cut your dust cover from the back so you don’t scratch the side of your frame.
This is awesome! I've got a few things that I've long wanted to get matted & framed, but never had the money for it. I think I'll give it a try now, though. I think one of my favorite things in the video was actually something not even mentioned. The half height shop towels is a brilliant hack. I mainly use them when airbrushing scale model stuff and find the full height towels cumbersome in that capacity. I regularly cut a towel down into strips squares before a project, but it had never occurred to me to just cut the entire roll in half like that. lol I love it!
I use $14 miter shear. That is all that is accessible to me - income and disability wise. Power tools like miter saw generate over 100 Db of noise and to noise sensitive Autistic person like me can cause a seizure and cognitive failure that can result in loss of hands. I do not have sensitivity in some of my fingers where nerves got severed as a result of my trying to use power tools. I use corner braces on the underside to strengthen the frames. I screw braces in using hand screwdriver. Since miter shear can only cut thin wood, I stack and glue few pieces for thicker frames. I use turn buttons in the back to hold mounting board to frame. I also screw them in using hand screwdriver. You make great point about separation between art and glass. I liked some of your artworks very much 💜
I also want to share observation about using silicone bumpers at the bottom. In hot humid environments such as kitchen and laundry room as well as in direct sunlight these bumpers yellow and melt. They also get stuck to the wall and rip off paint and wallpaper when artwork is removed. When they yellow, they stain light colored walls. I found that felt furniture leg pads work the best. Since they are not colorfast, I would use white ones for light colored walls. We do all this work to preserve the art but we also should preserve the walls :)
Look all these tools for building and darn square, I'm mesmerized on how sophisticated this process is drawn out. Industrial Loctite or liquid nails caulking glue will definitely hold. small joint pockets for glue to reservoir would add even more bite. At that point you could add Bisquit joiners for support. As for hiding hardware, you could literally counter sink a screw and use wood filler to cover it up, If you really know what you're doing with an air compressed tack gun and liquid nails this process is finished in under a minute. Frames hang on walls they are not furniture like an Ikea coffee table your son body slams his brother through in the first week.
@@b2gills if your frame is flat and square, and your paper is put on carefully, you shouldn’t need to tension/shrink it beyond what you can do just by hand when attaching the backing.
@@b2gills yeah exactly. Simply setting the frame back-down onto paper is asking for wrinkles. You can easily apply the paper to the back of the frame and tension it just by hand to avoid wrinkles. If it still wrinkles that way, it’s a good indication your frame is warped and won’t sit flat on the wall.
even beyond framing, there was so many helpful tips in this video - i'm embarrassed to say that you blew my mind with measuring the wire distance and writing it on the back to save yourself the trouble when you hang it. i just wing it and poke at it until it sits level-ish to my eye. whoops. saved this for later in multiple sources so i hopefully don't forget
Don't get that AGT tape on the cutting mat!!! It doesn't come off! This was great! i'm tired of shopping the 2nd hand stores for frames! between the laser, a router and this i think I can finally make my own frames!! THANK YOU! Oh, and i think you're cute, too!!!
Another thing you can do to help hide potential gaps in corners is to take a marker of the same color (or similar, tend toward darker than lighter) and color the bare wood edge inside where the join is going to be. Won't help with big gaps but small ones or discrepancies in a more detailed molding will be very difficult to see. Obviously don't go too crazy with the marker because it could disrupt the bond of the wood glue if you cover too much.
Yup, this is common practice. If you do your glue right, it’ll take on the art market ink too, and become color-matched glue! This+careful clamping means I never even reach for that stupid filler wax crap.
OK, maybe it's because the art I grew up around typically had it, I like seeing little tags with the artpiece and artist names on the bottom member of the frame. You can inexpensively make a passable version of this with a simple labelmaker using the 1/2" wide black print on gold tape, with two lines of print.
From my prior experiences with wood glue, f you glued it properly, it should be stronger than the wood, and definitely strong enough to frame without the nail. Might be worth double-checking that. I feel like the V nail might introduce more risk than it eliminates
Logan Pro Joiner: amzn.to/3fhsuDs
Corner clamps: amzn.to/3oLW2fC
Wood markers: amzn.to/3ufzpRJ
CA glue: amzn.to/3vfJD61
Wood glue: amzn.to/2RyF1cD
Nail Hole and Corner Filler: amzn.to/34f2qT3
Framing point gun + points: amzn.to/2QLO3m5
Acid free foam board: amzn.to/3feHBxt
ATG tape gun: amzn.to/34c42Nk
Acid free backing paper: amzn.to/3oGCTLW
Dust cover trimmer: www.mybinding.com/logan-f60-picture-framing-dust-cover-trimmer.html
Framing wire: amzn.to/3fcslkz
D ring hangers: amzn.to/3vhNZcO
Frame bumpers: amzn.to/3fcfuia
Prints shown by: www.secretrisoclub.com/shop and www.ericknightmaps.com/
Hi were is Adam? , is this Adams daughter?
I loved this video. I worked as a trim carpenter for many years and my days were spent cutting one miter after another- door frames, base boards, crown moldings,etc. It never occurred to me to paint or color the insides of the miters in order to help hide any ill fitment. That's a great idea and I'm wondering why I never thought of it. But then, that's the reason we watch these videos.....to learn from each other. Thanks again.
Framing is one of the most most valuable skills any artist can have. I worked at a gallery for years doing custom framing. I can’t even calculate how much money I’ve saved being able to do this myself.
I love how I'm not even through the first minute of this video and the first tip is effectively "get a job at a framers, then when you leave rob them blind" I think this is gonna be a great video.
These are all offcut pieces they were getting rid of and practically begged us to take home. Most of them are too short or beat up to use for customer projects, but they work great for small home projects!
@@jenschachter I'm a framer and can vouch for this, I claim all the offcuts and scraps that would otherwise end up in the bin.
🙄 As others note, offcuts means scrap pieces that would be otherwise discarded, not stored.
I love the bird in the window that seems to always make a guest appearance :)
Is it a bird or is it a squirrel or rat?
@@sci_tec I thought it was a jawa for a second when I first noticed it
Team pigeon
Our pigeon neighbors are VERY vocal, but they never complain about our noise or laser cutter fumes, so we live and let live :)
This has literally come out right as I’m considering how to frame a bunch of odd-sized embroidery projects, thank you Jen!
Just make sure your embroidery is spaced away from the glass, or it could get damaged over time! Also highly recommend UV glass.
I've always done my own artwork framing and now I see all the things I could improve. Thanks Jen!
I've never actually thought about doing my own frames, but you make it look so easy and good so i will definitely try this myself .. Thank you very much Jen! ❤️.
She came across as a bit racist.. not sure how you can thank her.
Have a blessed day!
-Dean
@@GardenGuy1942 what lmao
Wonderful video. The Logan tool for adding the corner metal supports is a wonderful solution for us home framers! The simple tip of measuring the hanging wire distance to the top edge and noting on the back will save lots of guessing. And the colored wax to mask the miter corners is an eye opener. I hope all DIY framers find this video. You did a great service for us all. Thank you!
Tested covers such a wide variety of information. As she was talking about the pointing gun, it occured to me this is exactly what I've been looking for. I've been restoring an old hutch and cabinets with leaded window panes. They're loose and I've been trying to figure out if I can somehow nail them back into place... Turns out all I need is some framing tools and inspiration. Who could have figured that reinstalling a glass pane is the same as framing a painting... Thanks tested!!
you can get very similar points for the point gun called glaziers points for that purpose. they're shorter to be more hidden as you wont have artwork in the way to hide them.
I'll second the glazers points.
If you only have a few to do (don't have further use for the gun), and the wood isn't too hard, you may also be able to use push points.
🇨🇦/🇺🇸... Hi Jennifer! My artist parents owned a Picture Framing business and Gallery, back in Canada. Seeing as I'm getting closer and closer to retirement (without much of a retirement fund at all... common these days) I've been thinking carefully about a retirement business that I'd ACTUALLY enjoy, rather than my present day job which sucks the life out of me. Because my hobby has always been photography and as I've occasionally done my own framing and have some equipment already, I've been thinking about doing this more seriously as my business. So, I've enjoyed watching your video. It brings back pleasant memories of my parents' business. Thanks!
I just watched this for the second time, to pick up some more points before planning out a few of my own projects. I'd love to see a followup on this, with more on matting choices, how big a mat border you want, color choices, etc. Cutting special mat boards has let me recycle thrift store frames for art of my choice.
This wasn’t what I was looking for but stayed for ALL the other information I didn’t realize I needed. I’m impressed!
Pro enough for me! Was looking for someone who not only knew what to do, but how to TEACH others! You touched on every possible scenario, and I really appreciate this tutorial! 😉 5⭐
I'm an amateur wood worker, that wax at the end is totally going to take my stuff to the next level. I think I'll give a frame a shot sometime, there's a lot to know. Awesome video!
As an artist I want to do my own framing, thanks for this video :)
I'm a photographer who wants to frame my work, your film is perfect! Really good explanation, thank you so much for sharing!
Good job! I've been a professional picture framer for 35+ years and I saw only a few things that I would correct on your video, but otherwise you did a great job using hobbiest tools and turning out nice basic frame job. Ps... shop garage sales or offer up type sites for used corner clamps. They are $100 new, so $50 or less is a pretty good deal. You might even find a frame shop that's closing. 😉
I think my main gripes would be the glazing (there’s no excuse to not use UV protective glass,) and the implication that acid-free=good protection. There’s SO MUCH that goes into actually protecting art in a pro framing job beyond just “acid-free,” which is a bit scary. If folks have valuable stuff, it shouldn’t be framed DIY.
This was a really great topic for a video! As a photographer this is gold!
Recently made a really nice free-floating frame from some ancient white oak an elderly neighbor had in their barn. It was a copy of a design I saw in a frame shop I couldn't afford. The design called for a side bevel so I used the table saw with an improvised jig, this put angular pressure on the blade causing the marking to be left. I was okay with the design being rustic this time so I left it. Right now it is just glued together and seems somewhat strong. I likely need to brace the joints further, which is why I came here. I'll likely attempt a bow tie insert (never done one), BUT this tool looks like a MUST HAVE.
Man, I'm Shortcut Sam over here! If I even decide to frame my stuff, I just do quick 45s with my chop saw, glue and blast finish nails through the side. Your method is WAY more professional and clean looking. =)
This was super informative, thank you! I've wanted to frame a number of things over the years but, never had a few hundred just lying around to have this some day piece framed. Very grateful you shared your knowledge!
Thanks to Jen for a great tutorial!!
How to frame artwork at home like a professional:
First, get a job working for several years to learn how to build frames. Take scrap parts home to collect for years until you have a good stock.
Make sure you have a saw that can be adjusted for exact angle cuts.
If you don't have premade frame scraps from the previous job, you'll need a router to cut the channel for the glass.
Buy a pressing tool to secure the V-nails evenly
A source of compressed air to clean the artwork and plexi or glass before assembling.
This is a great video, and Jen is fantastic as an instructor and going step by step. My issue here is that this is NOT a way to professionally frame artwork at home. This is setting up a professional framing shop, regardless of where you're at. It's like Adam saying "This is a simple process that anyone can do" before proceeding to use his lathe and mill.
Hate to break it to you, but even this setup doesn’t pass the sniff test of a pro framer. The glazing (“glass”) is completely unacceptable, the “acid free” (as opposed to fully archival) material... I won’t even get into the saw, it would get me all twitchy.
Damn, excited to make custom frames for those prints i can't find the right size for!
We had a nice corner clamp in the frame shop I worked at as well as foot chop saw with a very long bed that measures and makes your sides are at equal length. I find doing it at home is much harder and want to make a jig for the table saw. The clamp we had was set down and even with a flat work surface to support the rest of the frame. One corner at a time. We used glue and I pre drilled with a hand crank drill using a finish nail. We use a tack hammer and punch to set nails. If we could use the under pinner (foot operated air powered one) we did so with glue. I have a underpin v-nail set up from Rockler that is fairly cheap and works well for project. That press that you have is nice. I have many in line! I also (many years ago) found a used mat cutter. The same one we had the in the frame shop. Very cool, but I don't have a good place to store it.
The bad news here if you don't want to use UV glass its hard to buy from frame shops. I get glass from the glass shop or I get a bigger junk frame from the goodwill or garage sale and cut.
Wow I didn't know professional framer had this much of dedicated tool for they're art. But It makes sense now. +1 for the vids.
Yeah this isn’t the half of it! I have a frame saw (not a mere miter saw) with special blades, a “CNC” matte cutter, a 40X60 heat vacuum press, endless specialty tapes, adhesives, fasteners, papers, tools... I entered the industry a few years back with no idea, but yeah. To say it’s complex is a huge understatement.
Framers are also pushed into the printing business which is an entirely new learning curve and investment in equipment. Printers, scanners, cameras, pc and software, and lessons to make it all calibrated and working right, which all has to have space in your brain next to the knowledge of how to work with anything a person might bring in and put it in a frame without damaging it. Built my first frame in the 2nd grade, still framing at 53, and still learning.
@@kegs357 printing is a fantastic add-on service. We see many things come in that are too risky (or expensive) to restore directly, but a high-res scan with digital touch-ups or even an off-axis photo reproduction can solve many issues. Sometimes it’s safer to frame a touched up reproduction and keep the original in an archival envelope.
Honestly these are tools for hobby framing. Logan makes tools for more the home framer. Hundreds of dollars were spent on the tools in this video. Professional equipment is thousands and thousands of dollars. As an example the joiner used in this video probably sells in the $200 range. A professional v-nailer would cost at least $1500 for a good used one. Just wanted to state the difference. People have no idea how much is invested in a framing business.
yay perfect timing, im going to frame up a dozen zig saw puzzles for my grandfather before he puts them back in the box. thanks for the tips ajen, massive help
Never could get the hang of framing until I saw this video, I just couldn't picture it till now.
Yes! Thank you for this. I do a lot of landscape photography, and the framing is the most expensive part
really liked the detail of coloring the ends.. especially if they don't directly match. awesome video!
the trick to pick up dust, with the scotch tape, was brilliant!
Thank you for the tips i’ve been meaning to frame a painting of mine.
This was very helpful! I have band posters that I wanted to frame for my music room. Great video!
She's great. More of Jen plz.
Very interesting and professional advise I have lots of vintage prints that I have wanted framed but at over a hundred pound a frame you have given me inspiration to give it a go myself
I've been picture framing for 5 years, some great tips and tricks here. If you wanna streamline, get your artwork mounted up first, then just cut lengths by holding up to the outside and marking the moulding
I do a lot of cheats like this, just off camera ;)
Nice Vid. I liked seeing all the specialized tools of the trade. And all your tips.
Learned a lot of things with this video. Will help me to frame my photographs better. Thanks.
Didn’t realize there were so many diverse picture frame tools. My grandfather was a carpenter and my grandmother was a teacher/artist. My grandfather made her artwork frames. From shaping the raw wood to assembling the frame. Instead of v-nails he used Hillman joint fasteners. Interesting side bit of info - his sister was Justin Wilson’s first wife, Lallie.
Professional framer here, nice video on the basics. I think it also really drives home the value of having a pro do it for you though. If you’ve not used these tools or materials before, it takes a lot of practice to do framing at a high quality, and even more experience to know how to maintain the tools. This stuff will totally serve some artists well, but there are LOTS of mediums that need special approaches (not covered here) to be framed safely.
And it goes without saying, but original art of any value gets a whole slew of additional protection in the form of archival materials and techniques, which this basic approach absolutely doesn’t come close to. Do you really want even your $100 photograph to yellow, fade or color bleed just to save a few bucks by going DIY? Acid free isn’t even the tip of the iceberg, it’s a LOT more complicated than that.
I do this every day. My framing saw (not a miter saw) and my blades are dialed in to less than a hair from perfect at all times. I know how to manipulate a warped or bowed frame in my clamps to still produce a perfect corner. My mats are all cut on on a CMC (like CNC for matteboards,) and I’ve dialed that in to the hundredth. The lowest quality glazing (glass or acrylic) that any frame shop will use is still 99% UV protective, and we have fantastic museum glass which practically disappears which isn’t that much more expensive.
Painters certainly can do their own frames, if they properly varnish their work. Paper medium (photo/ink/pencil/etc.) can probably also do it too, but please get UV glass at minimum and always space your art so it doesn’t touch the glass. If you have delicate stuff (cross-stitch, charcoal, weaving, precious documents....) just go to a pro.
It can also be really beneficial to get a framer’s aesthetic opinion, we frame stuff all the time and have developed great eyes for what compliments your art.
Also my special dust cover trimmer is totally a standard raw razor blade. Some things are faster by “feel” when you do it 100 times a day.
Also you want some angle on your wire, not straight across.
Also cut your dust cover from the back so you don’t scratch the side of your frame.
Super video!!! Thank you!!! The visiting pigeon was a great addition... 🙂
well done. I liked the marker trick for the "imperfect edges"... also liked your clear succinct explanation of the functional purpose of the mat.
This is awesome! I've got a few things that I've long wanted to get matted & framed, but never had the money for it. I think I'll give it a try now, though.
I think one of my favorite things in the video was actually something not even mentioned. The half height shop towels is a brilliant hack. I mainly use them when airbrushing scale model stuff and find the full height towels cumbersome in that capacity. I regularly cut a towel down into strips squares before a project, but it had never occurred to me to just cut the entire roll in half like that. lol I love it!
"Not those Beatles. THESE beetles." 😆
Thanks! This will definitely help my study room a lot! =)
Wow, that was super instructive and interesting. Thank you.
When I got my Arkane Studios 20th anniversary poster it was an odd ratio so I had to get a custom frame.
Wish I’d have seen this back then lol.
Thank you for the video! Archival materials make this very professional! Thank you for your video! Very informative!❤❤❤😊
I use $14 miter shear. That is all that is accessible to me - income and disability wise.
Power tools like miter saw generate over 100 Db of noise and to noise sensitive Autistic person like me can cause a seizure and cognitive failure that can result in loss of hands.
I do not have sensitivity in some of my fingers where nerves got severed as a result of my trying to use power tools.
I use corner braces on the underside to strengthen the frames. I screw braces in using hand screwdriver.
Since miter shear can only cut thin wood, I stack and glue few pieces for thicker frames.
I use turn buttons in the back to hold mounting board to frame. I also screw them in using hand screwdriver.
You make great point about separation between art and glass.
I liked some of your artworks very much 💜
I also want to share observation about using silicone bumpers at the bottom. In hot humid environments such as kitchen and laundry room as well as in direct sunlight these bumpers yellow and melt. They also get stuck to the wall and rip off paint and wallpaper when artwork is removed. When they yellow, they stain light colored walls. I found that felt furniture leg pads work the best. Since they are not colorfast, I would use white ones for light colored walls. We do all this work to preserve the art but we also should preserve the walls :)
Look all these tools for building and darn square, I'm mesmerized on how sophisticated this process is drawn out. Industrial Loctite or liquid nails caulking glue will definitely hold. small joint pockets for glue to reservoir would add even more bite. At that point you could add Bisquit joiners for support. As for hiding hardware, you could literally counter sink a screw and use wood filler to cover it up, If you really know what you're doing with an air compressed tack gun and liquid nails this process is finished in under a minute. Frames hang on walls they are not furniture like an Ikea coffee table your son body slams his brother through in the first week.
The timing of this video is perfect! I need to do this
Lots of good tips, Jen, thanks!
Super helpful. Thank you
In order to smooth out the brown paper on the back, my mother would spritz it with a fine mist of water and use a heat gun to shrink it.
You can always just learn to put it on straight! I do it from the back by hand, perfect every time.
@@ForestCinema what does that have to do with anything? I said she did that to tension the paper. She always got it on straight.
@@b2gills if your frame is flat and square, and your paper is put on carefully, you shouldn’t need to tension/shrink it beyond what you can do just by hand when attaching the backing.
@@ForestCinema you mean like the video this is a comment on where the backing wasn't tight.
@@b2gills yeah exactly. Simply setting the frame back-down onto paper is asking for wrinkles. You can easily apply the paper to the back of the frame and tension it just by hand to avoid wrinkles. If it still wrinkles that way, it’s a good indication your frame is warped and won’t sit flat on the wall.
You know. I didn't actually ask for this, but it's the video we needed :D
To frame shops following these steps, I can drive your productivity to the moon.
Thank you! There were a few things that I was unsure of and your video filled in the missing pieces ! )))
Wow what an excellent video.
Thank you!
sneaky Pidgeon cameo at 13:56. Fantastic video. Very informative!
Wonderfully thorough. Thanks so much, Jen!
great video. happy international women's month
👏👏 awesome tutorial. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and tricks of the trade!
I think people underestimate the strength and longevity of wood glue.....
Really top notch video. Thank you for taking the time to make this clear and methodical tutorial!
even beyond framing, there was so many helpful tips in this video - i'm embarrassed to say that you blew my mind with measuring the wire distance and writing it on the back to save yourself the trouble when you hang it. i just wing it and poke at it until it sits level-ish to my eye. whoops. saved this for later in multiple sources so i hopefully don't forget
Really easy to follow. Thank you!
Beautiful job framing and explaining.
Great video. Jen is awesome.
This is great. I have always wanted to do this but never really knew where to start.
This looks fun. I may end up getting some tools. Thanks🖼️
this was really informative, i liked this a lot
"How to frame artwork at home"
*Uses FRAMINATOR 9000*
Excellent tutorial. Thanks.
Lovely! I'm gonna do it! Thank you! My efficient mind got stuck on that you could've used that brown paper for 2 frames ;P
Good catch! I actually prepped that for a larger frame but ended up demoing the smaller one :)
Awesome Monterey Bay picture and frame!
Hi, nice work your're a great teacher. ❤
Don't get that AGT tape on the cutting mat!!! It doesn't come off! This was great! i'm tired of shopping the 2nd hand stores for frames! between the laser, a router and this i think I can finally make my own frames!! THANK YOU! Oh, and i think you're cute, too!!!
Very helpful, thanks for posting.
Nice Video! Very Informative. I really felt like I learned a lot from her. She did a great job!
A perfect how-to. Thank you!
Great video on framing.❤❤❤❤
Brilliant video. Thank you!
Morning jenn you ROCK 💖
Thank you, this is a very informative video!!
perfect instructional video. ty
Amazing video ❤ thank you for sharing your knowledge with us
Another thing you can do to help hide potential gaps in corners is to take a marker of the same color (or similar, tend toward darker than lighter) and color the bare wood edge inside where the join is going to be. Won't help with big gaps but small ones or discrepancies in a more detailed molding will be very difficult to see. Obviously don't go too crazy with the marker because it could disrupt the bond of the wood glue if you cover too much.
Yup, this is common practice. If you do your glue right, it’ll take on the art market ink too, and become color-matched glue! This+careful clamping means I never even reach for that stupid filler wax crap.
So pleasing and cool artwork :)
OK, maybe it's because the art I grew up around typically had it, I like seeing little tags with the artpiece and artist names on the bottom member of the frame. You can inexpensively make a passable version of this with a simple labelmaker using the 1/2" wide black print on gold tape, with two lines of print.
Totally awesome sauce! 😄
Blue tape works great.
This is a fantastic video
I usually take a picture of the item I am framing and frame that up and keep the original safe and secure.
Excellent! Thank you! 🙌
There are lots of videos on frame-making, but very few discussing how to choose the most appropriate frame design for a picture.
From my prior experiences with wood glue, f you glued it properly, it should be stronger than the wood, and definitely strong enough to frame without the nail. Might be worth double-checking that. I feel like the V nail might introduce more risk than it eliminates
When you use clamps, at least. It will glue stronger if you use clamps and you won't get pieces drifting during the glue-up.
I'd burn out day 1 doing that job. Getting the 45s right and keeping them right every time, 4 times per frame, would drive me insane.
It's not bad, we use a set of morso blades that are mounted to the 45, so always cut right. Just has to be a clean cut
@@BucketheadStudios agreed, I would lose my mind without my morso
@@poipoipoi3 Of course, a Pistorius double miter saw is the cat's ass!
Thank you for the empathy!
Love this! More framing videos!
Awesome video!👍👍