Regarding point # 1 I should have clarified. They are multifuel as in they are able to be run on diesel, JP8, jet fuel A and B and Kerosene if needed. I was wrong about being able to use gas- that is probably something I was confusing with the deuce. Citizens have also had success cutting old motor oil with diesel and running them that way or even straight motor oil albeit that is somewhat risky to do as it can clog injectors. Older diesels in general have the ability to run on a lot of different fuels similar to diesel fuel as there are no electronics that would stop you from doing so or make it not run properly.
Taking delivery of my humvee today, 18 miles on the Odom. I had ordered black raptor textured coating for entire body, but wondered what color you used on yours? Like it a lot!
1, Equally important than just the fuel (NO GAS) the early HMMWV is not reliant on electronics to run. It is not susceptible to EMP discharge. I'm not sure if the 4L80 is the same since it has a TCM. The TCM is extremely well protected though. 2, Not true about body rust. Yes the body doesn't "Rust" in the way we think of steal rusting on other cars and trucks but Aluminum does oxidize (rust) and turns to a white flaky powder. Many HMMWV's have body rust especially where they were bolts and bolt holes. This is called Galvanic Reaction and in this case occurs Aluminum and steel are in contact with each other. 3, NA 4, The differential lockers are actually NOT lockers, they are Torsen limited slip differentials. The location of the brakes have nothing to do with it "locking". The reason you apply the brakes is to force the torque to be transferred to the wheel that isn't slipping otherwise the wheel that is slipping would just spin and the other wheel would do nothing. Lockers don't so that. 5, Fording kit or not the vents are all tied together, they all have that unless someone removed it. 6, The Fording kits primary function is to get the intake and exhaust as high as possible to prevent water from getting into the engine. This includes the dip stick seals and other possible water entries. 7, They don't have portal axles they have portal hubs. The axle drives a gear that goes to a gear driving the hub. It's not a gear to a gear to a geared hub as you stated. They are not primarily for ground clearance and most of what you said doesn't even make sense. The A-Arm IS below the drive shaft and regardless of the portal design or not they can have the same exact clearance. The biggest benefit to portal hubs is the gear reduction at the wheel. This reduced the amount of torque applied to the axles, CV joints and differential gears. With the axle entering higher on the hub it does reduce the angle from the differential and reduce wear however it doesn't effect the overall clearance in anyway. The same exact clearance could be achieved but at a cost to maintenance. Do some research before making informational videos or you are just giving out bad information.
Let me preface this by saying I literally do not have enough time on my hands to format a 2nd response to whatever you respond with again but I will at least give you the benefit of a follow up to your initial comment because I can tell you put a good deal of effort into it. 1. True 2. Really splitting hairs with this one. Yes we all know aluminum can oxidize. Much less likely and slower acting than that of rust on steel. Aluminum is also far less effected by salted roads, a primary killer of cars and trucks out here in the Midwest. My Humvee is going on 20 years old, not a spot of oxidation by the way. 3. Cant be bothered to re-watch the video to find out what I said anyways. 4. Fair enough, but the function of what I explained is the same. Furthermore you say "lockers don't do that"... but lockers do precisely what I explained in the video. They "lock" the diffs so the wheels on both sides spin at the same rate of speed, even when one has less or more traction than the other. Otherwise they wouldn't be called lockers. 5. Not sure what your point is here other than trying to nit pick the video. I explained the functionality of the fording kit and how it uses crank case pressure to create positive pressure inside critical drive line components. The vast majority of Humvees you buy off Govplanet are not going to have the DWF CDR, or lever. You would know this if you spent hours researching them and actually purchased one like I did. 6. Completely wrong. The fording kit's primary function is to pressurize key driveline components. Otherwise it would be called a snorkel and an exhaust stack kit. Something not unique to Humvees and not worth mentioning in the video. It should also be said that anyone with actual off road experience knows that water entering an engine through the exhaust scenario is borderline impossible. The exhaust gasses from a running engine will push water out, and even if the engine is shut off it is very unlikely water would enter because it would need to travel up several inches into the exhaust manifolds. 7. Me saying the axle was below the A arm was a mistake. However, you are also incorrect here. A primary reason for using geared hubs IS ground clearance, to say otherwise would be ludicrous. I did not get into gear reduction or wear, etc. because that is a topic for a whole other video and as far as calling them portal axles vs geared hubs etc.... I think anyone with reasonable intuition knows what I mean. In fact do a quick google images search on "portal axles".... seems a lot of geared hubs pop up. Ultimately this was not meant to be a buyers guide on Humvees and I am sure anyone willing to shell out over 10 grand on one is not doing it based on a top 7 reasons video they found on UA-cam, so no harm no foul on anything I got wrong. There are actually TMs readily available that have hundreds of pages of information that people are welcome to read cover to cover. This however, is entertainment.
Since Kevin has made it clear that he "can't be bothered" (his #3), I will try to help others that watch or read this. I will address his comments individually below and general comments here. First I do have a HMMWV and speak from personal experience. Second I also live where winter involves lots of salting of roads. Third I've read hundreds of pages of TM's over and over. Last, while Kevin says this isn't a buyers guide people are going to watch this and come away with wrong information. 2, Not splitting hair. Aluminum rust is nicknamed "white death" for a reason. In the video Kevin does mention the body is Aluminum and the frame and mechanic's are steel. Kevin states "Aluminum is also far less effected by salted roads" and this just isn't true. As I mentioned above, every place that involves steel and aluminum contact is subject to Galvanic Reaction and Salt is a catalyst. Salty roads speed up that process and salt from roads WILL cause the HMMWV to rust. Further, aluminum boats used in fresh water that are made using aluminum rivets fall apart in salt water because the rivets rust away. The entire body is riveted aluminum. SALT IS NOT GOOD FOR HMMWV's 4, your explanation of lockers locking is the reason lockers are better for off road. The function of the HMMWV is not the same as a locker. Kevin called it "The most reliable diff lockers known to man". They are not even Lockers. 5, First the definition of "Fording" is crossing water without a boat. A Fording kit helps you to do that. In a HMMWV no fording kit is needed for 30" of water. The Fording kit that allows you to go in up to 60" of water is known as a Deep Water Fording. You do not need the pressurized system to Ford Water. Adding the Fording kits does allow you to pressurize the drivetrain as described. It is not a requirement and is intended for longer term water fording. Sealing dipsticks, increasing the vent height, adding a snorkel and high exhaust will effectively make a HMMWV Ford water up to 5 feet for a typical civilian off road enthusiast. Think about it, in 30" of water all the hubs, most of the transmission and transfer case and bottom of engine is all underwater. Comments like "The most reliable diff lockers known to man" and "The most reliable portal and axles seals known to man". Just not true. The general information about the Deep Water Fording is OK but the specific description is not. Direct quote "water can't come in where air is coming out" and "you have completely sealed drivetrain components". Which is it? are they Completely Sealed or is Air coming out, because they can't both be true. 6, The Fording kits primary function is to drive in deep water. Water entering the engine through the exhaust is very real especially in DEEP WATER. I have lots of off road experience and once the engine is under water the last thing you want to happen is for it to stop running if the exhaust in under water also. In 30" of water that isn't an issue. 7, I specifically said Portal Hubs not geared hubs. I wish Kevin could explain how they create clearance. The lower control arms are in the same place regardless if the axle enters the top or the middle of the hub. The lower control arms are still the lowest point. The center clearance is 16" and the angle of the axles can work at that same height. In other words I could run run the exact same clearance with or without portal hubs. So again, how does that give you more clearance. The portal hubs give you better reliability with decreased axle angle, 1/2 the stress on the differential, twice the strength on the axles and CV joints. With Portal Axles (a solid axle) it gave you more clearance. If the primary reason for Portal hubs was clearance then why run gear reduction in the hubs? Why not run 1:1 ratio and just run a different ring and pinion? I'm not attacking Kevin. I'm not nit picking his video. I just get tired of seeing people putting out wrong information when thousands of people are watching it and thinking it's correct. Your video just happened to be the one I came across. I've seen others as well and 1 guy I totally ripped his video because he was a complete idiot and anyone who watched his video is now dumber about HMMWV's if they believed it.
I don't think the HMMWV has a multi-fuel engine. It's basically either a 6.2L or 6.5L turbo GM V8 diesel engine. Maybe you're thinking of the muliti-fuel engine that was in the M35 deuce?
Not confusing it with the deuce but I should have clarified. They are multifuel as in they are able to be run on diesel, JP8, jet fuel A and B and Kerosene if needed. I was wrong about being able to use gas- that is probably where I was thinking of the deuce. Citizens have also had success cutting old motor oil with diesel and running them that way or even straight motor oil albeit that is somewhat risky to do as it can clog injectors. Older diesels in general have the ability to run on a lot of different fuels similar to diesel fuel as there are no electronics that would stop you from doing so or make it not run properly.
@@Kevin24Seven Sorry, wrong again😵 ...ONLY Deuces built prior of 1980 were built with "Multi-Fuel" engines that "could" run on those fuels you stated. The M35A3 Deuces are straight DIESEL powered by Cat engines.
The military variant of the Bell Jet Ranger is multi fuel turbine, most any kerosine, all JP* variants as well as diesel could be used in these turbines, as for the Hummvve any jet fuel variant, diesel and kerosine will do in a pinch but best to run diesel. Use nothing but high quality diesel in any of the high preformance Duramax conversions.
Thanks for the support!! Here is the link but YT may block it lets see- www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z38T6XD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The transmission and transfer case do not have a provision to install a PTO unit. However, a hydraulically driven winch can be added to the hmmwv and be run off the power steering pump. Be careful though, as the steering, brakes and cooling fan are all powered by the power steering pump as well.
Just started watch your channel. I've been on that website 100 times. I've actually bought a truck from there and I've always wanted a humvee. Whats the gas mileage?
what company full/half doors did you end up going with. I've been eyeballing them for a while and I do plan on using them because they fit exactly what I'm looking for. Do you like them? Pros/Cons? Thank you in advance
The ones pictures on thus Humvee are the cobratec doors. They are relatively inexpensive and light being aluminum. On the new build I bought the FMP doors. They are crazy heavy but made of steel with bulletproof glass. It's tough to recommend one over the other to be honest, depends on what you want out of them.
The seats can be bought from Smittybilt, but I dont remember the specific model number (shouldnt be hard to figure out based off looks). I believe Federal Military Parts sells an adapter plate so you can run them in a Humvee. The doors are from Cobratec. If I post a link I think UA-cam will flag it so gotta be careful with that.
A C-pillar kit but beware..people still think they are selling to the Gov. and want an arm or leg. Ebay $525 shipped...You are better off building your own-A better design at that.
HMMWVs dont have lockers, they use Torsen limited slips. Thats why you have to use Brake Throttle Manipulation. There are ARB lockers available and im not sure why its not more popular as its a TRUE selectable locker PS: love the hmmwv content, still fightin the urge to buy one before land.
Absolutely, thanks for watching! Basically said the same thing in the vid but I would rather have what I have than any true locker. Much less prone to breaking when you need it most and I have seen so many of them just not work how they should lol.
Basically, if you can't get the job done with the diffs that it's got, you probably can't get it done with ARBs or the Ox either. The Torsens lock up pretty well when used right. Granted, the ARBs and the Ox make wheeling a little easier, but not by much.
@@farmsgrace341 it's almost akin to "manual diff locking" vs automatic. You have to know what your are doing and can't just simply hit a switch and mash the gas, but it works basically the same.
I came here just to tell you to please NEVER put gasoline in the HMMWV. I have replaced an entire fuel system from tank to injectors on a M1152. I have countless hours of working on Military wheeled Vehicles for the Army and bag you not to do this.
1:44 I heard of people using a mix between butter and old engine oil, however gas in a diesel engine? How would this work? Also I believe the engine is too small for running D2 and other non refined oils. Perhaps it's all urban legends?
@@Kevin24SevenI served in the military when the M-998’s came out. The military were still converting from Mogas (gasoline) to all diesel. Sometimes, through force of habit, a soldier would accidentally take his Humvee to curl up at a mogas pump. They would immediately throw out billows of white smoke. A trip to vehicle maintenance and a set of new glow plugs would cure the matter, along with pumping out the fuel tank. I’m sure prolonged use of the vehicle like that would’ve caused more damage in the glow plugs. Good luck with your Humvee. I hope to own one myself someday. I enjoy your videos.
Just to be clear, Hummers were never gasoline powered. Other military vehicles' and power generators etc were. So they had to supply 2 types of fuel just for ground vehicles. They were close to all diesel fleets by the late 80's. Guard units had some gas vehicles up until the 2000's.
Regarding point # 1 I should have clarified. They are multifuel as in they are able to be run on diesel, JP8, jet fuel A and B and Kerosene if needed. I was wrong about being able to use gas- that is probably something I was confusing with the deuce. Citizens have also had success cutting old motor oil with diesel and running them that way or even straight motor oil albeit that is somewhat risky to do as it can clog injectors. Older diesels in general have the ability to run on a lot of different fuels similar to diesel fuel as there are no electronics that would stop you from doing so or make it not run properly.
The H1 has always been my favorite truck ever.
Very nice truck , best looking trucks ever , God bless
Man I had tried for years trying to locate and buy a real military Humvee. An awesome piece of kit
I love those things about your humvee as well!
If I keep watching these videos, I'll be bidding on a humvee soon. :-o
Awesome vids!!! 🙌
Thanks bro!!!
Great video!
Good info.
Taking delivery of my humvee today, 18 miles on the Odom. I had ordered black raptor textured coating for entire body, but wondered what color you used on yours? Like it a lot!
1, Equally important than just the fuel (NO GAS) the early HMMWV is not reliant on electronics to run. It is not susceptible to EMP discharge. I'm not sure if the 4L80 is the same since it has a TCM. The TCM is extremely well protected though.
2, Not true about body rust. Yes the body doesn't "Rust" in the way we think of steal rusting on other cars and trucks but Aluminum does oxidize (rust) and turns to a white flaky powder. Many HMMWV's have body rust especially where they were bolts and bolt holes. This is called Galvanic Reaction and in this case occurs Aluminum and steel are in contact with each other.
3, NA
4, The differential lockers are actually NOT lockers, they are Torsen limited slip differentials. The location of the brakes have nothing to do with it "locking". The reason you apply the brakes is to force the torque to be transferred to the wheel that isn't slipping otherwise the wheel that is slipping would just spin and the other wheel would do nothing. Lockers don't so that.
5, Fording kit or not the vents are all tied together, they all have that unless someone removed it.
6, The Fording kits primary function is to get the intake and exhaust as high as possible to prevent water from getting into the engine. This includes the dip stick seals and other possible water entries.
7, They don't have portal axles they have portal hubs. The axle drives a gear that goes to a gear driving the hub. It's not a gear to a gear to a geared hub as you stated. They are not primarily for ground clearance and most of what you said doesn't even make sense. The A-Arm IS below the drive shaft and regardless of the portal design or not they can have the same exact clearance. The biggest benefit to portal hubs is the gear reduction at the wheel. This reduced the amount of torque applied to the axles, CV joints and differential gears. With the axle entering higher on the hub it does reduce the angle from the differential and reduce wear however it doesn't effect the overall clearance in anyway. The same exact clearance could be achieved but at a cost to maintenance. Do some research before making informational videos or you are just giving out bad information.
Let me preface this by saying I literally do not have enough time on my hands to format a 2nd response to whatever you respond with again but I will at least give you the benefit of a follow up to your initial comment because I can tell you put a good deal of effort into it.
1. True
2. Really splitting hairs with this one. Yes we all know aluminum can oxidize. Much less likely and slower acting than that of rust on steel. Aluminum is also far less effected by salted roads, a primary killer of cars and trucks out here in the Midwest. My Humvee is going on 20 years old, not a spot of oxidation by the way.
3. Cant be bothered to re-watch the video to find out what I said anyways.
4. Fair enough, but the function of what I explained is the same. Furthermore you say "lockers don't do that"... but lockers do precisely what I explained in the video. They "lock" the diffs so the wheels on both sides spin at the same rate of speed, even when one has less or more traction than the other. Otherwise they wouldn't be called lockers.
5. Not sure what your point is here other than trying to nit pick the video. I explained the functionality of the fording kit and how it uses crank case pressure to create positive pressure inside critical drive line components. The vast majority of Humvees you buy off Govplanet are not going to have the DWF CDR, or lever. You would know this if you spent hours researching them and actually purchased one like I did.
6. Completely wrong. The fording kit's primary function is to pressurize key driveline components. Otherwise it would be called a snorkel and an exhaust stack kit. Something not unique to Humvees and not worth mentioning in the video. It should also be said that anyone with actual off road experience knows that water entering an engine through the exhaust scenario is borderline impossible. The exhaust gasses from a running engine will push water out, and even if the engine is shut off it is very unlikely water would enter because it would need to travel up several inches into the exhaust manifolds.
7. Me saying the axle was below the A arm was a mistake. However, you are also incorrect here. A primary reason for using geared hubs IS ground clearance, to say otherwise would be ludicrous. I did not get into gear reduction or wear, etc. because that is a topic for a whole other video and as far as calling them portal axles vs geared hubs etc.... I think anyone with reasonable intuition knows what I mean. In fact do a quick google images search on "portal axles".... seems a lot of geared hubs pop up.
Ultimately this was not meant to be a buyers guide on Humvees and I am sure anyone willing to shell out over 10 grand on one is not doing it based on a top 7 reasons video they found on UA-cam, so no harm no foul on anything I got wrong. There are actually TMs readily available that have hundreds of pages of information that people are welcome to read cover to cover. This however, is entertainment.
Since Kevin has made it clear that he "can't be bothered" (his #3), I will try to help others that watch or read this. I will address his comments individually below and general comments here. First I do have a HMMWV and speak from personal experience. Second I also live where winter involves lots of salting of roads. Third I've read hundreds of pages of TM's over and over. Last, while Kevin says this isn't a buyers guide people are going to watch this and come away with wrong information.
2, Not splitting hair. Aluminum rust is nicknamed "white death" for a reason. In the video Kevin does mention the body is Aluminum and the frame and mechanic's are steel. Kevin states "Aluminum is also far less effected by salted roads" and this just isn't true. As I mentioned above, every place that involves steel and aluminum contact is subject to Galvanic Reaction and Salt is a catalyst. Salty roads speed up that process and salt from roads WILL cause the HMMWV to rust. Further, aluminum boats used in fresh water that are made using aluminum rivets fall apart in salt water because the rivets rust away. The entire body is riveted aluminum. SALT IS NOT GOOD FOR HMMWV's
4, your explanation of lockers locking is the reason lockers are better for off road. The function of the HMMWV is not the same as a locker. Kevin called it "The most reliable diff lockers known to man". They are not even Lockers.
5, First the definition of "Fording" is crossing water without a boat. A Fording kit helps you to do that. In a HMMWV no fording kit is needed for 30" of water. The Fording kit that allows you to go in up to 60" of water is known as a Deep Water Fording. You do not need the pressurized system to Ford Water. Adding the Fording kits does allow you to pressurize the drivetrain as described. It is not a requirement and is intended for longer term water fording. Sealing dipsticks, increasing the vent height, adding a snorkel and high exhaust will effectively make a HMMWV Ford water up to 5 feet for a typical civilian off road enthusiast. Think about it, in 30" of water all the hubs, most of the transmission and transfer case and bottom of engine is all underwater. Comments like "The most reliable diff lockers known to man" and "The most reliable portal and axles seals known to man". Just not true. The general information about the Deep Water Fording is OK but the specific description is not. Direct quote "water can't come in where air is coming out" and "you have completely sealed drivetrain components". Which is it? are they Completely Sealed or is Air coming out, because they can't both be true.
6, The Fording kits primary function is to drive in deep water. Water entering the engine through the exhaust is very real especially in DEEP WATER. I have lots of off road experience and once the engine is under water the last thing you want to happen is for it to stop running if the exhaust in under water also. In 30" of water that isn't an issue.
7, I specifically said Portal Hubs not geared hubs. I wish Kevin could explain how they create clearance. The lower control arms are in the same place regardless if the axle enters the top or the middle of the hub. The lower control arms are still the lowest point. The center clearance is 16" and the angle of the axles can work at that same height. In other words I could run run the exact same clearance with or without portal hubs. So again, how does that give you more clearance. The portal hubs give you better reliability with decreased axle angle, 1/2 the stress on the differential, twice the strength on the axles and CV joints. With Portal Axles (a solid axle) it gave you more clearance. If the primary reason for Portal hubs was clearance then why run gear reduction in the hubs? Why not run 1:1 ratio and just run a different ring and pinion?
I'm not attacking Kevin. I'm not nit picking his video. I just get tired of seeing people putting out wrong information when thousands of people are watching it and thinking it's correct. Your video just happened to be the one I came across. I've seen others as well and 1 guy I totally ripped his video because he was a complete idiot and anyone who watched his video is now dumber about HMMWV's if they believed it.
@@ConstitutionalFreedomFighter I've got toooooo much *clap clap* time on my haaaaaands
I don't think the HMMWV has a multi-fuel engine. It's basically either a 6.2L or 6.5L turbo GM V8 diesel engine. Maybe you're thinking of the muliti-fuel engine that was in the M35 deuce?
Not confusing it with the deuce but I should have clarified. They are multifuel as in they are able to be run on diesel, JP8, jet fuel A and B and Kerosene if needed. I was wrong about being able to use gas- that is probably where I was thinking of the deuce. Citizens have also had success cutting old motor oil with diesel and running them that way or even straight motor oil albeit that is somewhat risky to do as it can clog injectors. Older diesels in general have the ability to run on a lot of different fuels similar to diesel fuel as there are no electronics that would stop you from doing so or make it not run properly.
@@Kevin24Seven Sorry, wrong again😵 ...ONLY Deuces built prior of 1980 were built with "Multi-Fuel" engines that "could" run on those fuels you stated. The M35A3 Deuces are straight DIESEL powered by Cat engines.
The military variant of the Bell Jet Ranger is multi fuel turbine, most any kerosine, all JP* variants as well as diesel could be used in these turbines, as for the Hummvve any jet fuel variant, diesel and kerosine will do in a pinch but best to run diesel. Use nothing but high quality diesel in any of the high preformance Duramax conversions.
What’s that cargo box you have in the back? Your videos are awesome!
Thanks for the support!! Here is the link but YT may block it lets see- www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z38T6XD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I thought I recognized that pavement, grass and fire hydrant! Chesterfield! hey can I meet up with you next time I'm down there?
Sweet vid! Got a burning question though; can you add a pto unit to this humvee like the jeeps did way back in the 60s?
The transmission and transfer case do not have a provision to install a PTO unit. However, a hydraulically driven winch can be added to the hmmwv and be run off the power steering pump. Be careful though, as the steering, brakes and cooling fan are all powered by the power steering pump as well.
Dude I want one!!!! How much was it and how rough when it arrived
Gas engines use a spark plug for combustion. The other fuels explode without using spark plug under compression, right?
Just started watch your channel. I've been on that website 100 times. I've actually bought a truck from there and I've always wanted a humvee. Whats the gas mileage?
THanks for your support man, they do anywhere from 12 to 16 mpg. I think mine does about 13 or 14.
what company full/half doors did you end up going with. I've been eyeballing them for a while and I do plan on using them because they fit exactly what I'm looking for. Do you like them? Pros/Cons? Thank you in advance
The ones pictures on thus Humvee are the cobratec doors. They are relatively inexpensive and light being aluminum. On the new build I bought the FMP doors. They are crazy heavy but made of steel with bulletproof glass. It's tough to recommend one over the other to be honest, depends on what you want out of them.
Did you ever figure out why I was so hard to start the humvee and what did you replace to make it start easier?
Would you put a link where to buy parts like doors , seats etc...?
The seats can be bought from Smittybilt, but I dont remember the specific model number (shouldnt be hard to figure out based off looks). I believe Federal Military Parts sells an adapter plate so you can run them in a Humvee. The doors are from Cobratec. If I post a link I think UA-cam will flag it so gotta be careful with that.
Can you post a link to what paint gun you use or what you would recommend?
I have a Devilbiss but I forgot the exact model. I think it's called a finish line if I remember right
How did you go about making your two door humvee into a 4 door? I want a four door one and looking to purchase one from gov planet too.
A C-pillar kit but beware..people still think they are selling to the Gov. and want an arm or leg. Ebay $525 shipped...You are better off building your own-A better design at that.
Plan b trucks sell everything you need to convert to 4 door. and they include their own C pillar.
You said that you can run Humvee rim on a ford Bronco, do they fit right on . or do you need to do some Mod's to it?. thanks
You would need to send it in to get re-cenetered to a place like trail worthy fab.
Fill er up with JP8!
What is a Boo?
HMMWVs dont have lockers, they use Torsen limited slips. Thats why you have to use Brake Throttle Manipulation. There are ARB lockers available and im not sure why its not more popular as its a TRUE selectable locker
PS: love the hmmwv content, still fightin the urge to buy one before land.
Absolutely, thanks for watching! Basically said the same thing in the vid but I would rather have what I have than any true locker. Much less prone to breaking when you need it most and I have seen so many of them just not work how they should lol.
@@Kevin24Seven i do wish the Ox Lockers were available for the
@@nomadih2252 I agree, the brake modulation works absolutely fine. No need for any "real" locker...
Basically, if you can't get the job done with the diffs that it's got, you probably can't get it done with ARBs or the Ox either. The Torsens lock up pretty well when used right. Granted, the ARBs and the Ox make wheeling a little easier, but not by much.
@@farmsgrace341 it's almost akin to "manual diff locking" vs automatic. You have to know what your are doing and can't just simply hit a switch and mash the gas, but it works basically the same.
I came here just to tell you to please NEVER put gasoline in the HMMWV. I have replaced an entire fuel system from tank to injectors on a M1152. I have countless hours of working on Military wheeled Vehicles for the Army and bag you not to do this.
Yep... See my pinned comment on this. Was confusing with some of the old deuces being able to run "combat gas"
My humvee hates cold weather needs a block heater to start . Runs fine in the summer . Is there a fix so it will be reliable in cold weather?
dont they all come with tire air inflation systems ?
No they do not, only some models
1:44 I heard of people using a mix between butter and old engine oil, however gas in a diesel engine? How would this work? Also I believe the engine is too small for running D2 and other non refined oils. Perhaps it's all urban legends?
Humvees are so sick
FYI, if you do put gasoline in it, you'll ruin your glow plugs.
See my pinned comment, you are correct here. Probably worse damage than glowplugs lol.
@@Kevin24SevenI served in the military when the M-998’s came out. The military were still converting from Mogas (gasoline) to all diesel. Sometimes, through force of habit, a soldier would accidentally take his Humvee to curl up at a mogas pump. They would immediately throw out billows of white smoke. A trip to vehicle maintenance and a set of new glow plugs would cure the matter, along with pumping out the fuel tank. I’m sure prolonged use of the vehicle like that would’ve caused more damage in the glow plugs.
Good luck with your Humvee. I hope to own one myself someday. I enjoy your videos.
@@taccs27570 that is wild and also interesting. When did they make the switch from gas to diesel?
Just to be clear, Hummers were never gasoline powered. Other military vehicles' and power generators etc were. So they had to supply 2 types of fuel just for ground vehicles. They were close to all diesel fleets by the late 80's. Guard units had some gas vehicles up until the 2000's.
@@taccs27570 Actually there were some Hummers, H1's, that came with 5.7 (350) gas engine. No Military HMMWV's came with gas engines.
No, You can't run this vehicle on gas.
Runs on gasoline…. Not so much…
As a taxpayer I want a free Humvee. I payed for it with my tax dollars. What's up with that?