Kawasaki Assist/slipper Clutch
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- Опубліковано 24 сер 2019
- In this video I go through what the assist/slipper clutch is, and how it works.
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Every time I feel like the internet as been bled dry of high quality educational videos about Engines or Riding or Computers or whatever interests me --
He we go and find something even better and more educational and higher quality than before. Bloody brilliant mate, thanks for everything.
Honestly felt like 5 minutes not 25 too so it's good and I want more, please make more! keep doing this.
Using your "new" comes clutch as a show and tell... awesome job. Won't find too many people doing that.
It's facinating how a simple-looking feature brings so much to a bike. It's a "simple" idea, a "simple" arrangement, ant yet it does three things :
- lightens the effort at the clutch lever
- prevents clitch spinning when you give it the beans
- prevents wheel spinning when going down a gear.
And imagine that 120 bhp go through these rather flimsy-looking discs.
Thanks for the video : I never saw an actual anti-slip clutch before.
Am I right in saying it cuts down the amount of engine braking? This might be covered in the vid, I can't remember. But if I'm correct, it'll prevent that bit of wheel spin and breaking traction when changing down, sometimes. But on my old zx9r c2 you can use the more conventional clutch arrangement to good effect when you're riding smoothly, because the bike's slowing down from the compression - so you don't have to worry so much about how/when to brake. By contrast, my cbr600fx doesn't have anywhere near as much engine braking. Matt - if you haven't already, it'd be interesting to watch an upload where you explain engine braking, and the relationship between e.g. flywheel masses and clutches (conventional and slipper, etc.).
My Triumph Speed Triple 2016 model came with an assist/slipper clutch, I had no idea what that meant I do now.. Matt glad you did it this way instead of using your 3D model she would have caught a chill hinging about for that demo..
Good to see pinky und brain back in the workshop
That seems like a really good design, sorta like a win win reliable with free perks (if it lasts). The concept sort of reminds me or the rekluse clutches you can get which allow you to pull off in first without using the clutch.
Kawasaki first introduced the slipper clutch(back torque limiter) way back in 89, on the ZXR750's, but unless you were a track day warrior, you'd never know it existed, because from factory it was setup to provide a very limited effect. Great vids. Subbed.
This is a man who knows what he's doing, good explanation keep up good work
Very good video. Even I can't understand your British accent, but I can understand how it works inside a slip clutch. Thank you for your nice video.
My mate's Street Twin has a slipper clutch - conventional cable, not hydraulic. It's the lightest thing I've ever felt. Amazing.
Wow that is a beautifully simple system.
Great video Matt, nice to hear Issac learning something too.
That top fibre plate had wider pads on it too, intersting setup , I hadn't seen inside one.
Honda did the torque assist technique on their clutch assembly on the 2008 fire blade.
Same clutch release mechanism as on my 1971 M125 Puch. oh! fancy that.
Great video - appreciate your explanation! 👏🏻
Well done!
Good video and explanation.
Cheers.
Thanks Matt I always wondered how these worked. Very simple and clever idea, can you still bump start the bike if necessary.
"can you still bump start the bike if necessary" - very good question....
Sounds like you may have young Paduwon thinking more mechanically!! What a breakthrough! P.S. wasps are great to have because they're relatively peaceful and they eat poisonous spiders like Black Widows. Specifically, the "mud-daubers" or the type of wasp which makes their nests from bits of mud and dirt like to paralyze black widows and other spiders then stock the hive up with tons of live but immobile spiders for the wasp larvae to feed upon when they emerge from the pupae.Yeah, idk I just felt like sharing a fun fact I recently learned myself.
Awesome video, I need to replace my clutch soon, it's done 26k! Horrid noise!
Matt...this great stuff..I had an idea of how these clutches worked...nobody shows it better.
The whole ramp system in the clutch is very dependent on aluminum..Time will tell....
Iam sitting in your classroom again....Cheers!
A detailed analysis and testing would have been done. The design can take the loading, what is a question is how long can the clutch take the wear...... We'll find out. One thing I will add is that Kawasaki don't spec any measurements for service limits on the contact area on the rams. Mainly due to the fact that it's a difficult thing to measure. We'll see how it goes. At this rate I'll be putting 10k miles on per year minimum. So in 4 years we'll see what 50k has done.
@@dirtygarageguy Presumably, as it’s a fairly new clutch it’s only just polishing the high spots off the ramps just now. The more mileage you do the more surface area will be come into contact and it will all settle down. If that’s the only wear so far given the mileage you have done I can see those ramps lasting a loooong time.
Yeh, these things are pretty much everywhere now. Hell, even my (arguably run of the mill) CB650R comes with one! The downshifting benefits are a nice to have, but for myself (and I assume most other road riders) the real benefit has to be the light feel. It's bound to be less fatiguing especially in traffic.
Another great explanation.
I've had a bit of experience with slipper clutches and when the clutch ramps out you get excessive clutch free play
So do you have to run slightly more free play on the clutch cable for under acceleration when the clutch ramps in ( compared to a standard clutch )
I take it this helps to prevent the rear wheel locking up during changing down, hence reducing wheel hop. But do you notice having less engine breaking?
No. There's a balance to be had between engine braking and how much the clutch slips - more on this later
It would help older shaft drive bikes on wet roads,if it could be retro fitted,some of them were like riding a fuckin' kangeroo!.
very interesting. wonder if i can put one on this old GPZ
Very good question - and probably no. However, if the primary reduction gear was the correct gear modulus, and the correct pitch circle, the input shaft had the same clutch mounting then yes. But that's never going to just work out perfect.
Try to find a kit for you bike
My z900 has been slipping since about 5k miles. Think i might try new springs its at 12k now and its really noticeable
Speaking of the z900 any future updates to how the bike is coming along with the daily riding?
She's fine. In November I'll be doing the 'Z900 - 1 year on' video
Kawasak in their infinite wisdom, fitted a 2nd gear lockout on their ZXR250 'C' models, to help noobs... it's a pain in the arse if you ever needed to roll start a bike... have to get enough speed into the gear set to throw out the ball bearings that prevent you shifting into 2nd, and then bump start it
What do you think about QuickShifter for these clutches and transmission? So much people experiencing different outputs from using QS. But how is the science of it? Does it get damaged if using QS?
I have a 2019 KTM 390 with a slipper clutch. Thanks for explaining and showing it to us Matt. Mine is temperamental at times, I try to downshift while off the throttle and it just won’t go unless I use the clutch. Could that be an adjustment possibly? I have the correct free play adjusted as per the manual.
✌️🍻
You should always use the clutch, specially when downshifting...
Would using friction modifiers with an assist clutch be compatible since there should be no risk of clutch slippage with a gripper clutch ??
I'm surprised you didn't mark that outer casting so that it went back in the same place.... Bloody interesting design though 👍🏼👍🏼
outer casting?
@@dirtygarageguy... Yeah the actual "slipper clutch" plate with the angled ramps.... You pointed out wear, would it not be best to put it back to mate the wearing faces?...
You could add a couple of pints of water to the engine oil and have a super-slippy slipper clutch - simple skills.
Just add some synthetic oil that's not 4t and it'll slip very quickly, my son made that mistake on his 2019 ninja 650.... hopefully it'll start grabbing again after a couple changes of oil
Some European manufacturers have been using similar clutches since early 2000's. For example APTC (Adler Power Torque Clutch) was introduced in 2004 Monster 620 ie.
That's a slipper clutch - not the same thing
@@dirtygarageguy APTC is not a simple slipper clutch. It increases force clamping clutch disks (and therefore increases friction) when torque is transferred from engine to gearbox. Spring force is lower by 40-50% than "traditional" or simple slipper clutch.
This one - www.adige.eu/public/ENG/products/aptc.asp
- I thought you meant Adige clutches full stop. I never said they weren't or just for Kawasaki
Hi matt question the top part is engaging / disengaging but a little closer to base there is a lip. And behind it a surface angled to the other side and much steeper. Why do they do that ? Or is that the standard position and the less sloped part is a helper for the clutch handle to keep it slipping ? In other words i still dont understand what sloping surface is meeting with the other part.
This requires another video lol
So a variable clutch slip torque, that is so cool, but doesnt it mean you have a super heavy clutch under power, not that you want to press the clutch under power, more torque more pressure on the plates and you can't burn the clutch by accident by keeping your hand on the lever, because it's tightening on the plates. Is that correct?
Is that correct?
- no. because you blip the throttle when shifting, therefore the torque drops off
@@dirtygarageguy Yes but it is true, right? It's a very impressive thing, also how do you enginebrake
I was wondering the same thing.
Wouldn't slipping the clutch wear constantly the single friction plate behind the drive plate?
Hey man, pls help me out. I just bought the 2020 Z250 (very similar to the Z400) and this model is advertised as having assist and slipper clutch. Now, correct me if I'm wrong, the whole thing about a slipper clutch is it helps maintain the RPM when you're slowing down and downshifting right? But funny thing is, my bike still have the jerk whenever I'm downshifting and slowing down. I just wanna know if I'm having a bad unit or just totally dumb at motorcycling. 😂 Thanks man. I enjoy your videos so much, and your technical drawings too!
No, that's not what it does...
Actually Suzuki is doing that as well...and for a while. Even SV1000 (DL1000, maybe even TL S/R) has it. Though it is not that advanced (no large ramps, but small ones....still 6 springs), but it is there. Suzuki call it "back torque limiter".
During track riding my SV I can actually pop from 6 to 3 on hard brakes and simply let the clutch go without rear wheel sliding at all. It does work quite well, with one exception - unfortunatelly for SV the clutch locks a bit unpredictably, when you try to accelerate hard in high RPM while trying to slip your clutch...which I find annoying.
you're talking about a slipper clutch - this is not that, well it's half that
@@dirtygarageguy Oh, right...I kind of forgot for a moment, that SV actually doesn't have ramps the opposite way, so it does not do the "assist" part :)
What is the best way to remove all the old gasket if your old 1 ia welded to the cover? I really don't want to use a blade & run the risk of gouging it up
LOL don't gouge it then. You can soak the cover in hot water for an hour or so, that can help
Yes, please review best practices of gasket removal. This series of posts (www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=563163) is very adamant that scotchbrite is NOT the way to go, although I have seen Mustie1 use this. But then he is mostly doing small gas engines, not bike or car engines. Keep up the great work!
@@dirtygarageguytotally, many thanks
I'd imagine the engine braking is totally different on the Z900 in comparison to the Sv ?
did you scan the QR code Matt? I am wondering it is a secret easter egg thing some fella in Kobe stamped on there.
In regards to the mechanism that partially disengages(engages) the clutch on engine breaking, what benefit does that have? Myself and I’m sure most people use engine breaking to slow down. If the clutch is has less pressure in it wouldn’t engine breaking be less affective? My guess is that it would keep the rear tire from hopping when you downshift too hard and it loses traction but I’ve never had that issue unless I purposely did it slowing to a stop
Video coming soon
There is a round shape on the edge of the "petals" of the "meaty" disc, and you didn't put it in the same position as it was when you disassembled the pressure plate. Is it a problem, or do "meaty" discs go in any position ?
makes no difference as anything under the surface plane doesn't do anything
I’ve heard the clutches wear out pretty quick on these. Just the pressure plates mind you. Probably because slipper clutch is forcing it to slip more than you’d expect on heavy downshifts/reducing compression lock ups etc?
"I’ve heard the clutches wear out pretty quick on these"
- well we'll see, as 'what people' sya is 90% bullshit. That and most people can't ride properly.
The Workshop Haha yeah there is that. My only other point of reference was an old suzuki gsx250f “across” that I put 135,000 km on and never replaced the clutch. I’ve seen a few blogs of people having to change the clutch on the z900rs (pretty much the same power plant as your z900) at around 14,000miles (24,000ish kms). Probably just the power difference and like you say “not knowing how to ride”
I don't mind the slipper clutch on my big viffer, but I would trade it for a gripper clutch to lighten up my clutch. A 1200cc V4 with a boat load of torque equals one heavy clutch, even with hydraulics.
DCT ya you know me
@@kellyjackson7889 6MT actually. They were not all DCT, and I wouldn't want the DCT anyway. I like to shift my own gears.
Matt, when I replaced the OEM springs with Brock's springs I was able to twist and push them onto the raised circles on the back of that triangular plate. I'm assuming that will center the springs in the hole and keep them from rubbing on the casting.
The Brock's springs make a nice difference in the way the clutch feels at the lever.
"when I replaced the OEM springs with Brock's springs"
- Ah it's you LOL and brock springs? Big mistake.
You're the dude with the slipping clutch. which is strange as this clutch can't slip unless you have the free-play all over the place. How many miles was it again?
Matt, I have about 5000 miles on the Z. I only had one incedent of slippage. Others have had more. I can't speak for the others but I'm no dunce with a wrench. My clutch was properly adjusted. It didn't slip on acceleration rather it slipped while holding more or less a constant 7000 RPM. The "assist" function of the clutch wouldn't have been doing its job as the plates at that point weren't being forced together by acceleration. The only thing at constant throttle and steady speed would have been the three springs holding down the fort. I know how you feel about Brock but he has a good product here for our bikes. He claims a 10% stronger spring. While I enjoy the light clutch I find it even more enjoyable to be able to feel the lever again. But even with the added pull of Brock's springs it's still a very light clutch.
Yeah dude I get it - but once? That's a bit extreme to then change parts - I think something else happened and you thought it was the clutch - but each to their own.
The Workshop ...I get that as well. When I first rode my bike home from the dealer I was hard accelerating entering the highway and not being used to such a light clutch I inadvertently did a clutch-up wheelie. LOL. It also happened again on a small local street but I was aware of why those happened as I always cover both brake and clutch levers. My slipping in traffic was different, I believe it was a true slip. I made sure not to cover the lever and it still happened. Either way it's nice to have a little more resistance on the lever. (My Z is "stupid fast" now 😆).
@@dirtygarageguy my 2017 z900 free revs @ 5000 or higher rpm. I have 8100 miles and tried adjusting the cable at both ends. Any ideas why it's slipping? Thanks
FCC are the name in Japan who do most of the clutch manufacturing for the motor industry.
Going hard into a downhill hairpin the rear still chatters when changing down to 1st. I ride harder than most but it is a linear chatter, a bit like abs. I would prefer a softer, less aggressive implementation, where the rear would slide but beggars cant be choosers.
God I’d love a lighter clutch pull. Is it ok to pull some of the springs out or should I get a hydraulic conversion?
No - it's not ok to pull some of the springs out LOL
I’ve just ordered an easy pull clutch adapter and will try that out.
Ive had my z900 for over a year now, currently at almost 15k miles and I do a lot of wheelies (clutch ups) and used to get a lot of false neutrals where the gear would sometimes pop back in under power so I'm really concerned about both clutch wear/damage and gear change mechanism damage. I'm probably going to take the clutch cover off soon to inspect as my valve clearances are coming up and I can't afford to pay someone to do it.
Are you clutchless shifting?
@@dirtygarageguy occasionally, i used to do it more often because i honestly get much smoother consistent shifts both up and down when i DO clutchless shift than when i use the clutch. But at some point early on i decided i wanted to get better at shifting properly so i only do it occasionally now.
The issues with false neutrals happened at the very beginning when i first bought the bike new. And never technically stopped, i just got better at compensating for it.
I never let my engine talk back to me.
Could you cover all the details that make a super sporty motor/powertrain what it is and special like a high-end sport bike a super sport or a Porsche 911 GT 3, One of the most Critical components as far as I can tell is or critical characteristics rather is a very free revving and quick revving nature and I’m sure light fly wheel plays a big part although I’m not sure if it’s single mass or dual mass or whatever but yea, what are the ingredients for that sound and those characteristics.
What could I do to my ninja 400 or r3 or regular 911 for example to spice it up and make it more like that intoxicating exotic MV Agusta sound where the blip of the throttle seems to send it to redline In a second. And what can’t I do because it requires engine design from the start and what characteristics of the engine design are involved ? Thanks so much for considering my request, if you don’t feel like making a video on this but have any reference material you’d be willing to pass on so I can educate myself on this topic I would love to learn more thanks again take care
I'm unsure what your question is....
@@dirtygarageguy I am basically interested in what allows exotic bikes and cars like MV agustas and GT3’s and super sports in general usually & Ferrari’s etc. to rev so quickly....what all is needed to make that happen and what if any modifications can one make to a more modest vehicle to make it a little more free revving, with the understanding it will never be like the above mentioned vehicles. It might be a stupid question, if so no worries, I just assume it’s much more than simply a light flywheel and crankshaft
Piston speed and mass. It's all about the conrod. If either the piston speed or its mass increase then so does the force on the conrod. Thats why ferraris' etc have so many cylinders so each piston is smaller and lighter.
@@dirtygarageguy fascinating, never heard that answer, always hear people act like “just get a lighter flywheel” and I’m sitting here like ok but a lightened flywheel does not a GT3 make
@@dirtygarageguy thanks again by the way.
I think the z1000sx has it too
i saw this video a wile ago, but now that i know you read your comments, i just wanted to drop a note.
this was mind blowing.
i thought a slipper clutch was just one that didnt engage very harshly, maybe for a more comfortable acceleration.
i thought i knew, so i never looked it up.
learning what it was, and then learning that assist is a thing too was a significant moment in my day.
next can we cover why the fuck ducatti does that weird shit with their valves?
i know spring steel sucked back in the day, but does it add any value these days? is it just fashion to keep the goofy italo-valve?
Yes - more Desmo stuff is coming. But I have some videos already on the subject
Do this experiment: on this bike, try to pull the clutch while in power, the clutch lever should become hard.
Why would it? When you pull the clutch lever, you're pulling against the springs, not the clutch
@@dirtygarageguy Oh... yeah, you're absolutely right. Didn't think about that.
Get a splunge of Castrol GTX in there! She'll be right! 🤣
'Can you...see?' is from "Minority Report". 15:05 I think you had a parts-gasm, from the sounds you were making!
"'Can you...see?' is from "Minority Report""
- No. It's from Event Horizon - well when I say it, it is.
@@dirtygarageguy getyarn.io/yarn-clip/dcc090ce-763d-4126-8803-e8f7de740011 :p But maybe it's in both, never seen 'Event Horizon'.
1997 TL1000 Suzuki has ramp on clutch. How can you tell if you have one on any bike? It will pull the lever against your hand as it bites the clutch home. Try feathering the clutch with the revs high it will snatch it back out your hands (not in first it may weelie) . Is it a slipper to? Dunno Im to dim to care. Is it a good idea yep until the ramp cams wear and you start doing random walk behind me bike weelies at pedestrian crossings...not a good look. Hayabussa has one too.
"1997 TL1000 Suzuki has ramp on clutch."
same reply from a different comment -
you're talking about a slipper clutch - this is not that, well it's half that
Ive got a Cagiva Raptor 1000 (TL motor). Im an engineer so spent a while making spacer washers to try to calm the "ramp on" dodads down (they are sepperate on TL1000 not cast into the clutch body). In the end a cams came up new on ebay £90 and once fitted the clutch was sanitised. The motor had 20k miles on it but 12K of that was previous life so who knows about oil changes etc........bloody good bike 165Kg with a pair of cans on it, typically 5 on the Richter thats tickover!
So, Matt, you don't recommend changing the springs to stiffer ones?!?
No. unless you have increased the torque from the engine somewhat
Interesting. Many guys from the forum claim improved feel at the lever and better acceleration under WOT with stiffer springs. All of which sounds nice if the reliability is not compromised. Thanks
And yes they're be right - Improved 'feel' means it feels more like other clutches, and who the fuck is riding the clutch all the time? Pussies that s who. "better acceleration under WOT" - that's complete bullshit and in their heads.
I'm having some weird issues with my 2020 Z900 clutch. It is the most noisy clutch I've ever had on a bike. Now my clutch pulled in with the bike in gear it makes a weird "chatter" when the trans engages the gear. Any ideas?
Have you changed oil recently, and is it more prevalent when the bike is colder
@@dirtygarageguy no oil change and I just finished a 160 mile ride. The only variable is I washed the bike and cleaned and lubed the chain the day before the ride.
Can you record it?
@@dirtygarageguy I have it recorded but I don't know how to send it to you.
Upload it to UA-cam, keep it unlisted and send me the link
Similar clutch as my 17 gsxr 1000r .very snachy
Snatchy? Well it is a Suzuki - they don't like change that much LOL
@@dirtygarageguy they did make a bit of a change at Silverstone yesterday
Went the practice Friday them things sound naughty
Is there any reason that a slipper clutch should be causing vibration in the bike while downshifting? I have a BMW K1600GT that have a very distinct vibration that can be felt trough the whole bike when engine braking and releasing the clutch around the "sweet spot" of engaging/disengaging the clutch. If I only pull in the "slack" on the clutch handle without engaging the clutch, the clutch handle moves out/in when accelerating and decelerating and I can feel vibration in the clutch handle. Different BMW forums suggest that this is normal behavior of the sliper clutch. I do not se why the slipper clutch should behave like this.
Have you checked the free play in the clutch?
@@dirtygarageguy Just bought the bike and it is still under used bike warranty from the dealer. I raised the concern with the dealer when the bike was in for a large service. They test drove the bike but only noted a slight vibration in the clutch handle, which is of no concern to me. They have raised a query to factory on the issue. The bike seems to have normal free play on the clutch
Any particular reason for the spring colour?,different colour for different spring rate?. Or did Kawasaki just match the spring colour to your underpants?. The wear on the oval holes would concern me,where did the metal particles end up?.
The lime green gives them full Kawasaki power
"where did the metal particles end up?"
- in the oil, where else?
Or embedded in the clutch drive plate giving the driven plates a good scratching?.
So?
replacing a slipper clutch with a standard clutch for drag racing
(4) 2017 GSX-R1000 S2B: Episode 8 - Dragstrip Prep - Clutch Mod Conversion - UA-cam
I prefer old heavy clutch... New one are to light even for 1 finger
This is probably a stupid question.. As this clutch system locks in when more torque is applied, why so many clutch plates?
Good question - there's gonna be a Q&A
sooo... how heavy is the cluch pull when you "give it the beans" ?
The same - why would it be different? The clutch lever pulls against the springs..........
@@dirtygarageguy under load isnt there additional force created by the wedges?
cheers , 16:15 , exactly my issue , high rpm slip
Oh yes! the notches in the clutch plates mean nothing mate. Just ignore them and do not line them up!!! Well done.
Doesn't that design make it pretty much impossible to disengage the clutch under load. I get that normally you won't do that anyways, but still. Another scenario Matt - if you are proper launching the bike, doesn't that work against you intentionally slipping the clutch with your lever because the system would like to fully engage because it's pulling itself down under the torque it's taking.
I'd imagine that would feel weird on the clutch lever.
By the way, thank you for your commitment, pulling the clutch off without needing to except to show us some cool tech. I definately couldn't be arsed to do that.
"Doesn't that design make it pretty much impossible to disengage the clutch under load."
- No because it's the one plate that engages the system. That and the fact that you blip the throttle when shifting.
I can feel another video is coming on
I am guessing that this amplifies a quick let go because of the torque transferred is high, but if the engine bogs down in RPM and looses power, the clutch would lighten up and the engine would be able to spin up again, so it would help with balancing the clutch, for a good launch.
Is it my imagination or do Kawasaki use that clutch arm for everything ?
nothing to do with clutch but how reducing the compression chamber increase power?
Do you mean reducing compression? And if so - because of the realtaionship between compression and expansion - also known as the expansion ratio - Video coming soon
Did you ever hear of shaving a cylinder head to increase compression ? How about using a thinner head gasket to increase compression ? Try stuffing 5lbs. of shit in a 4lb bucket ?
Wow - that's a shit comment that doesn't answer the question at all.
NO not really The Workshop, If you shave the head or put a thinner gasket on you are reducing the compression chamber, in return it increases both the compression ratio & power up to a point. But you must watch for valve & piston clearances hitting the head by reducing the compression too much.
See, same comment. The question was why does raising the compression increase power. Secondly, in your comment above I ask why does it only work up 'to a point'? I know why, the question is, do you?
It looks like kawasaki managed to do what suzuki failed to do with the tl1000, a light clutch action, back torque limiter, the tl1000 clutch hub wears quickly and gives a very inconsistent clutch,
You're talking about a slipper clutch - not quite the same thing
Tl1000 does not have a slipper clutch, has a ramp center that clamps the plates on engine load, and eases off on engine breaking, just like your z, but the tl unit is far smaller
images.app.goo.gl/BygEFb91WuMcz6ux7
@@gaztl1000s - If you read where you got the picture from it says this -
"TL1000S Clutch and Back Torque Limiter
The TL1000S was one of the first Japanese sportbikes to come with a slipper clutch. This handy-dandy gizmo allows the clutch to slip under hard deceleration, to avoid rear-wheel hop and chatter when downshifting at high revs."
www.tl1000s.info/Randys_TL1000S_Site/Clutch_and_back_torque_limiter.html
Althought this clutch was revised and this 'newer' design was fitted to the SV1000, it's not exactly the same as the z900 version in this video - hence the normal 6 springs
@@dirtygarageguy www.banghead.info/tl1000resources/weldedcentre.html
What happened to the squeaky brakes video?
squeaky brakes video?
@@dirtygarageguy You said your Z900 had a squeaking front brake and you knew what that was and you'll do a video on it.
So there is no engine braking with a slipper clutch?
Yes still feel engine braking just doesn't lock up back wheel
Rsv mille has a vacuum operated one that's going back 20 years
"So there is no engine braking with a slipper clutch?" - yes there is - I can feel another video is coming on
@@dirtygarageguy I get the feeling some folk don't ride hard enough ever to kick straight down through the box hard on the front brake and drop the clutch
From what I'm gathering watching people's riding and driving vids recently is 90+% of people just can't ride or drive for shit 😂
Very curious about the stuff I don't have on my TDM.. did you already have videos about the TDM on the channel? I thought I saw a teaser when I was at sea and I can't find them on my phone
So a slipper cluch is like a cassette on a push bike
Questions.....lots of questions....ive got a 2015 z1000 with the normal clutch.....my mate has the same bike and the lucky bastard found the upgraded slipper clutch from the newer model and retro fitted it...can i find one...can i fuck...so - from seeing the view of yours it looks like the z9 slipper is the same as the z1000 - and - it seems that a lot of zx10 uses the same type of motor....so, my quesiton is, is assuming that ill never find a slipper from the newer models - will a zx10 aftermarket slipper clutch work...ive got no issue paying the extra if its a better product - assuming it fits of course...! Just to add the OEM parts come to about 350-450 ish and a brand new slipper from a zx10 about 600 ish upwards....
well you'll have to look at the parts first. Or put another way, do I know off the top of my head will they fit, no, I don't. There are a lot of things that have to fit correctly. First off - is the primary reduction the same?
@@dirtygarageguy yeah... Just been going through the parts online.... I'll revise my original statement.... Looks like half the clutch from the non slipper will fit the slipper....I just wondered if you knew...
So who's making the video
DIY slipper clutch removing half your clutch springs ™️😉
So who's making the video - ?
@@dirtygarageguy well its gonna be one of the nobheads full of good advice about copper grease or grinding brake pads take your pick
I would imagine Kawasaki have engineered the geometry of the ramps so as to prevent this, but wouldn't the cuts designed to increase the bite of the clutch, also cause it to be grabby when accelerating from a stop? I don't assume it's an issue on larger displacement bikes (i.e. bikes with more torque) but on smaller bikes, and with inexperienced riders, I could see it causing some stalling issues.
"but wouldn't the cuts designed to increase the bite of the clutch, also cause it to be grabby when accelerating from a stop?"
- No. and the reason why is because even with high torque from the engine the resistance to move (inertia) is also high. This is why you require such a tall first gear.
@@dirtygarageguy I'm sorry but I don't think I explained myself clearly. What I was trying to say was, if the ramps on the boss and pressure plate, provide additional clamping load when you get on the throttle, (due to power from the engine, and resistance from the drivetrain) it would also increase the rate of engagement of the clutch due to the same forces. If that is the case wouldn't it have somewhat the same effect as letting the clutch out too quickly, therefore encouraging a stall on a motorcycle with lower torque?
That's why there's springs - the system has a 'default' clamping load on the system due to the springs
@@dirtygarageguy but aren't the ramps designed to increase the clamping load?
yes - but it is proportional to the imbalance in torque either from the crank or from the transmission.
Just to let u know u forgot the pull knob thingy
Mechanical Porn, aah thanks Matt.
Does yours sound like shit when it's disengaged in neutral ?
I've been told by the dealership's central garage that it's suppose to sound a bit ringy and that it's ok. But it just sounds awful to me...
ua-cam.com/video/zQRNn9QIo3g/v-deo.html
"Does yours sound like shit when it's disengaged in neutral ?"
- All bikes rattle in neutral - it just depends if you can hear it, and that the damper rings just rattling.
"But it just sounds awful to me..." - is this your first bike?
@@dirtygarageguy in the video I attached above you can hear it and it sounds pretty nasty when I engage the clutch I hope it's the same is yours because we got the bikes around the same time and if not It would be really good if you told me , I can send you the video of me disassembling it if there's something wrong... wouldn't like to disassemble it if there's nothing wrong with it. Keep on rocking, love your videos...
@@dirtygarageguy No, my fourth...but I did a lot of test drives between the third and this one.You reckon most of the time they sound rattling after a while ? I had 2 hondas which were almost too silent, a yamaha that sounded like shit just as a general but after fitting it with an akro it started to sound really good. But with this bike in the beginning it sounded amazing stock, with the breathing wistel and the bassy note at low revs, the screaming high revs, I was in love with it, It strated sounding like shit at 6k but everyone keep telling me it's normal...
Yah mines hit 5000 and it free revs wtf?
Why did you turn the words 'cam' 'arm' into one word? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯who does that?!
LOL why are you SOOOOO american? It's my fucking language - not yours
We've been through this before, technically its many languages, its a bastard child... just like you!
WTF Beach ? ARE YOU ONE OF THOSE WORD NAZI'S ? THISHASNOTHINGTODOWITHTHETOPICBeach&BoardFan. FUCKIN EL MAN, GO GET LAID OR SOMETHING ?
nowr2run you seem a little high strung there, need a hug? 🤗
Your the 1 bitching about how to spell a word, my god get a life, son.
Great content except for your foul mouth. Why do some people have to speak like they don't have the ability to control themselves? It's your video, you'll do what you want, I'm sure. I loved the content, but I'm certainly not going to let my young kids watch it, which is such a shame as you did a superb job of explaining this concept. Just some constructive criticism. I'm sure I'm in the minority here but oh well.
I have a 2019 z650. The clutch is garbage. 2800 miles on it. 3rd gear slipping once the bike warms up. Complete dogshit.
Or maybe it's you... Is it the same clutch? You have a Z650... I've got 10k miles on it and it's not a problem
16K on my Z900 ive rode it hard. No clutch slipping, no problems. The feather light clutch is a godsend.
You sure the clutch lever is properly adjusted and you're using JASO MA spec oil?
@@blu3flare25 yes sir. Oil is good to go. I run full synthetic Amsoil in all my motorcycles. I am a stunt rider. Have been stunt riding since 2001. I have a lot of bikes. The clutch adjustment is good and I have a nickle of freeplay in my shorty clutch handle.. no issues in first or 2nd gear.. I just ordered $120 oem clutch plates and gasket. I hope it fixes the issue.
@@dirtygarageguy read above
@@OsceolaLongBeard Must have really ragged the shit out of the clutch then and worn the plates down then. I don't really see how the design its self would make it anymore prone to slipping.
Also what do you mean by slipping exactly? Its slips as in doesn't engage at all and rear wheel doesn't move?
Or maybe you mean the engagement is not as instantaneous as a normal clutch, which might be a bit more noticeable with stunt riding? Which that would kinda make sense with this design.
Bored Of Lame Clutch Reviews?
Poor Kawasaki still uses a cable for the clutch...
I'll set up a race, replace a cable clutch vs a hydraulic one - and go!
@@dirtygarageguy just pulling your leg!
Talks awful to his little helper. Would have showed my lad but every other word is F***
Talks awful? Did you fail English?
Mine went at 7k
I love that there is a little needle roller bearing in the case for the actuator arm, that's a nice feature