What I did for the pushrod pinch area on my SBM "360" heads was: I set them up on a milling machine with a piece of drill rod stock shoved in each intake pushrod hole and sticking out above the v. cover surface. I ran the milling cutter out and used a feeler gauge to find the distance between edge of the drill rod and edge of the cutter edge.Then I moved the cutter away from the drill rod/pushrod hole however much wall thickness you want to remain, zero your dial then maneuver the cutter into the port and walk it up and down to remove some of the pushrod bump. When you're done with all the intakes then, you can round-over & blend the new cut area edges into the as-cast port. Try it, you'll like it. It's the safest way to lessen the pinch other than a CNC porting job.
@michaelmoon8856 you know I did this like 40yrs ago, and I don't remember exactly. Because of possible porosity, I'm thinking 0,060 seems too thin, and 0100 seems too conservative. I'm thinking 0.080 would be good.
Love the 440 source heads on my 383!! Awesome improvement over tired 906's. my 133K 383 short block runs awesome with these heads on. it is a true zero deck engine from the factory.
Turning into a nice set of heads. Each step is nice & detailed. Everything is going to fit together great. It's going to make some incredible sounding car noise !!!
Enjoyed! Thanks! I want to know more of the good, and not so good, about the valves, springs, and retainers that come on these heads from 440 source... What Mr. Rick has to say after all is done! What parts he doesn't use and why? Can't wait for the answers.
Shaving those heads 30 thousandth, would you now need to shim the springs or anything to get the proper rocker placemeny and pushrod length. Or would factory push rods and rockers be ok as is in your opinion?
@@johnnyturbo8460 I bought my pushrods after shaving the heads. With adjustable rockers, the standard length pushrod might work, but you have to check. If using stock rockers, it may need shims under the shafts. But also, the factory used a thin shim gasket .019 or so. The new felpros are usually around .039. You can get different thicknesses. That’s what it’s it good to measure after your stack is done. As in, how much was block decked? How much were heads shaved? Shimming the springs would only change the spring psi.
The porting turned out nice. Thinking I might have to try my hand at a home port job on some 906s. Might be the only ace up my sleeve on the #piggybankhorsepower build that I'm way behind on. 😅😅
Next video please give a full love:hate on those vs the eddy. So far they definitely look to be better in every aspect, from cost to quality! Beautiful port work and you made that look like a breeze! I don't suppose you bought those brand new *cough cough*
Haha! This set was actually new. Tall John bought my other set of 440 source heads. Both sets have their advantages. The e street heads had a superior chamber design, and it was actually 75 cc versus the 82 of the 440 source.
Thanks brother. They seem to be nice castings with some decent parts. My main issue was that one spring had two cups stacked under it. That would have been a problem if not found!
I have been looking at these heads after having them recommended to me. After going through these heads, would you recommend them over the Edelbrock, or other "budget friendly heads? (Budget being in the $1600 range for the pair)
@@johnnyturbo8460 no matter what, they have to have the guides, seats, and springs checked. I would choose the Edelbrocks 75 cc version for the improved chamber design and better port placement.
I would really like to see one of the well known manufacturers take on building a stock appearing head, a nice quench combustion chamber, and great flow. They would sell well in the mopar community. I had a set of these crack and dump the entire cooling system liquid into the exhaust. Thankfully, not the intake. Build and we will buy.
Joe do those exhaust where you put your header bolts or studs do they go into the water like a cast iron head does where you gotta seal them up and they always have a tendency to be a real pain in the butt to seal are they capped on the backside buy the aluminum head
Thank you very much which one of the of them two heads was the actual best in your testing or putting them on your motors I'm guessing that the the source was not as good as the other ones the two 40s@@JustMoparJoe
Hey Joe, I have a set of those heads from 10 years ago. They have the same little button/bump at the center of the triangle between the valves and spark plug hole. I'm planning to use them for the 1st time and wonder why it's there and should I leave it alone?
I’m not sure why it’s there, but you can smooth it out if you’d like. I’m sure an expert may chime in as to why it’s there. It may be worth a cc if you’re wanting max compression lol
What I'd like to see from 440 Source, is since they offer stroker kits predominately specializing in the low deck, why don't they offer their heads with a raised intake port option so any RB intake will fit on a B engine? There was some Mopar Performance heads called Stage VI that had raised intake ports where any RB intake (bar MW) would just bolt on the low deck when fitted with Stage VI obviously, but they were hellishly expensive like $2000ea bare. Apparently they flowed sort of in the 330CFM range out of the box. They could also be ordered with MW profile ports and flowed ~370CFM. If you used the MP Stage VI on a RB then you had to run spacers (similar to running a B intake on an RB) but vice versa any RB intake would just screw on. Seems like a missed opportunity, since who wants to be stuck with expensive and rare, old tech low deck intake manifold selection on your 500"+ low deck when there are so very many affordable interesting single and multi carb intakes both modern and old for the RB? Practically nothing for the B in comparison.
I have an engine assembled by a rebuilder that when I primed the engine never really felt resistance in the drill. Upon startup it took I think too long to build up no more than 30 psi. My roller lifters don’t want to stop making noise. I used your video to check valve lash but I still get some chatter. The pump that is in there was a new Melling regular pump. I don’t even recall seeing it build up pressure with RPM. I’m going to switch out the pump for another high volume pump I used to use on a six pack engine. Do you have any thoughts on possible causes of poor pressure? I am using Trickflow heads and they said there is a restrictor built in the heads and they are designed to use the Harland sharp rockers on the heads
@ the heads do restrict to 1/8” hole. It almost sounds like there’s a terrible clearance problem (cam, main, or rod bearings)or did they leave a plug out of the front galley? It should always increase with engine speed. You can buy the Mopar high pressure spring and use in your current pump and see if it helps.
I was thinking about them leaving the galley plug out. But would that provide any pressure if that were the case? How many plugs are there? There’s no oil coming out the backside of the engine. They do mostly Chevy engines and they might have neglected to put one in? If I remove the front timing chain cover will that expose any plugs that should be in place? I can’t see them installing the bearings wrong. The original bearings were in great shape so I don’t think all of a sudden there is a lot of bearing clearance. Wouldn’t I hear a knock sound if the clearance was the bearing clearance was that bad? I have the original high volume oil pump to put back in. If that doesn’t improve the pressure something has to be wrong. The old pump created 60 pounds at idle before.
@@jimdrechsel3611 if you pull the cover, you’ll see the plugs, except for under the timing chain. High volume doesn’t always mean high pressure. Your old pump may have the higher pressure spring in it, that you could swap out as well.
@@JustMoparJoe lol…. I converted this values from ounces to grams and they make sense. 132 grams for the intake and 119 for the exhaust. That’s a little lighter than the factory 2.08/1.74 valves. Awesome!
Are these heads made in the U.S.A.? I looked it up and it just stated the valve retainers are made in the U.S.A. Makes me think they are just another chinese head.
You can’t get caught up on the little things so much. Maybe I misspoke. Maybe You misunderstood what I was implying in the statement. The video is about the heads. What’s you think about them?
Those are not good chamber design heads. The best are Brodix Mopar B1 heads, followed by the Trick Flow Power Port 270 heads. Chambers you are looking at make no sense.
Nice trick with the steel wool on the sand paper roll 👍 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Looks great, good clip, enjoyed.! I grew up B-RB Mopar. Keep the clips rolling.
Right on! Thanks for the support
Good job. We need a 360Source!
I swear!
Nice job again Joe! Anxious to see how they flow. You continue to do a great service to the Mopar community.
I appreciate that! I’m just having fun over here
I had never thought of steel wool. Cool! I might try something similar on the stock kegger I'm working on!
Go for it! Many guys don’t want a polished intake runner or port. I figured it’d help beat carbon build up
What I did for the pushrod pinch area on my SBM "360" heads was: I set them up on a milling machine with a piece of drill rod stock shoved in each intake pushrod hole and sticking out above the v. cover surface. I ran the milling cutter out and used a feeler gauge to find the distance between edge of the drill rod and edge of the cutter edge.Then I moved the cutter away from the drill rod/pushrod hole however much wall thickness you want to remain, zero your dial then maneuver the cutter into the port and walk it up and down to remove some of the pushrod bump. When you're done with all the intakes then, you can round-over & blend the new cut area edges into the as-cast port. Try it, you'll like it. It's the safest way to lessen the pinch other than a CNC porting job.
That sounds legit! Thanks, Bud
I have a vert mill and have thought of doing the same .
What did u settle on for safe remaining wall thickness ?
0.062" sounds about rite to me .
@michaelmoon8856 you know I did this like 40yrs ago, and I don't remember exactly. Because of possible porosity, I'm thinking 0,060 seems too thin, and 0100 seems too conservative. I'm thinking 0.080 would be good.
I called my heads, w1&1/2's
Well, you have more experience to do this than I would. I don't have a steady hand or patience to do this Joe. Good video!
Thanks brother. It’s fun for me. I think each set is good practice for the next!
Very nice 😎
Thank you! Cheers!
Love the 440 source heads on my 383!! Awesome improvement over tired 906's. my 133K 383 short block runs awesome with these heads on. it is a true zero deck engine from the factory.
Good to hear!
Looking good, thanks for sharing, all the best to you and your loved ones
Thanks Donald! Same to you
Turning into a nice set of heads. Each step is nice & detailed. Everything is going to fit together great. It's going to make some incredible sounding car noise !!!
Thanks brother
Looks nice Joe.
Getting rid of the steps and ridges gives you some more area.
Smoothing out helps.
Have a good evening.
Thanks, Ed. I feel like these are a step better than when they shipped. Always check the new ones!
Good job on the cylinder heads ....good content and thanks.
You bet! I’ve got more to come on these
nice work, like the blue grass as well
Thanks! 🎶
Nice work, Joe.... Always enjoy your videos....
Glad you like them! Thanks for the support!
Making Good better, I love it😊
Thanks, Shane!
That looks nice, I have a pair of those that I was going to send out and get cnc ported. Looking for a little more hp and torque
Good luck! I saw Eric Weingartner’s video flowing the cnc’d heads. I think there may be a better company out there for doing the work
@@JustMoparJoeI seen that video too. Just trying to squeeze another 100hp out of my combo.
Enjoyed! Thanks! I want to know more of the good, and not so good, about the valves, springs, and retainers that come on these heads from 440 source... What Mr. Rick has to say after all is done! What parts he doesn't use and why? Can't wait for the answers.
Great suggestion! I will try to do a recap on it all. Mr.Rick is heading out of town for warmer weather!
Brand new aluminum heads with bronze wall guides that look stock beats tired 906’s that need $600 to rebuild.
Absolutely! She will spin tires!
you betcha! my tired 906's are stored in the crawl space.
@@lukepokrajac1057 don’t throw them out, but you can save 50 pounds and some flow with these these
Absolutely!
Great video as always!! Fine job on those chineseium heads!! They will work perfectly fine for you!
Thanks, Greg! I think they’ll be good for my warmed up street engine
You did a nice job on those ports. The heads look great
Thanks brother! I literally quit at the 4th hour. My arm and air compressor was tired 😴
Nice work on those heads. Been hoping someone would do a review of those heads.
More to come! Thanks brother
Looked like a good job to me . I hope you get all practiced up .
Thanks, Terry! I’ve got a pair in mind
Nice work on them heads, hope they perform as good as they look.
Thanks Jeff!
Shaving those heads 30 thousandth, would you now need to shim the springs or anything to get the proper rocker placemeny and pushrod length. Or would factory push rods and rockers be ok as is in your opinion?
@@johnnyturbo8460 I bought my pushrods after shaving the heads. With adjustable rockers, the standard length pushrod might work, but you have to check. If using stock rockers, it may need shims under the shafts. But also, the factory used a thin shim gasket .019 or so. The new felpros are usually around .039. You can get different thicknesses. That’s what it’s it good to measure after your stack is done. As in, how much was block decked? How much were heads shaved? Shimming the springs would only change the spring psi.
@JustMoparJoe Great points, I'm glad I asked. Thanks for your advice. 😁👍
Same question Joel on the trick flow 240 heads you checked for flow
nice heads !!
Thanks, Tim! It was a fun set to play with. Someday I’ll get better at porting. But each set is practice for the next one!
@@JustMoparJoe Your port work was just fine as far as I'm concerned!!!! Same type of porting I do.
The porting turned out nice. Thinking I might have to try my hand at a home port job on some 906s. Might be the only ace up my sleeve on the #piggybankhorsepower build that I'm way behind on. 😅😅
Haha! Thanks, Terry. Gotta get that one up and going
nice work - now I have to know where the chamber volume ended up after taking .030 off!
Thanks brother. I’ll try to get that in a video sometime soon!
Next video please give a full love:hate on those vs the eddy. So far they definitely look to be better in every aspect, from cost to quality! Beautiful port work and you made that look like a breeze! I don't suppose you bought those brand new *cough cough*
Haha! This set was actually new. Tall John bought my other set of 440 source heads. Both sets have their advantages. The e street heads had a superior chamber design, and it was actually 75 cc versus the 82 of the 440 source.
Been waiting on you to review those I’ve got a set!
Thanks brother. They seem to be nice castings with some decent parts. My main issue was that one spring had two cups stacked under it. That would have been a problem if not found!
I have been looking at these heads after having them recommended to me.
After going through these heads, would you recommend them over the Edelbrock, or other "budget friendly heads?
(Budget being in the $1600 range for the pair)
@@johnnyturbo8460 no matter what, they have to have the guides, seats, and springs checked. I would choose the Edelbrocks 75 cc version for the improved chamber design and better port placement.
@@JustMoparJoe OK, thanks for your input. I value your knowledge
So the edelbrock 5090 E Streets? 75cc
Nice simple job. Should be a good improvement over whole rpm range.
Thanks brother
Nice job with clean up have you looked at the Afr or trick flow 440 heads.
I didn’t know AFR made a head for mopars. I have some comparison videos between the trick flow 240’s and edelbrock e street heads.
@@JustMoparJoe on the Afr I misspoke I was meaning the brodix B1
@@johnnystanley4469 ok cool. I’ve never had any B1’s. I’m pretty sure there’s some good videos out on them. I’m still a novice in the head world
I would really like to see one of the well known manufacturers take on building a stock appearing head, a nice quench combustion chamber, and great flow. They would sell well in the mopar community. I had a set of these crack and dump the entire cooling system liquid into the exhaust. Thankfully, not the intake. Build and we will buy.
That would be cool! Sorry to hear about that. Hopefully they would refund your money on that deal.
Go mo joe you the man
Thanks brother!
Eric winegardner also mentioned he had a set of big block Mopar heads that were in pre-production but didn't give many details
I like watching his stuff for sure
Nice heads, kinda scary using that grinder around those seats.😮😢
Yea it’s a little nerve racking, but I’m too say I never touched one 💪🏻
Joe do those exhaust where you put your header bolts or studs do they go into the water like a cast iron head does where you gotta seal them up and they always have a tendency to be a real pain in the butt to seal are they capped on the backside buy the aluminum head
As far as I’m aware, all aluminum heads have the holes blank, so that they do not go into a water jacket.
Thank you very much which one of the of them two heads was the actual best in your testing or putting them on your motors I'm guessing that the the source was not as good as the other ones the two 40s@@JustMoparJoe
@@mikedaugharty5544 I have dyno series scheduled for the next month for the trick flow 240 heads on the 440 build. Hope you follow along with that.
will do there!!!@@JustMoparJoe
Those heads look familiar!
They have some stiff springs!
👍
Thanks brother
Hey Joe, I have a set of those heads from 10 years ago. They have the same little button/bump at the center of the triangle between the valves and spark plug hole. I'm planning to use them for the 1st time and wonder why it's there and should I leave it alone?
I’m not sure why it’s there, but you can smooth it out if you’d like. I’m sure an expert may chime in as to why it’s there. It may be worth a cc if you’re wanting max compression lol
What I'd like to see from 440 Source, is since they offer stroker kits predominately specializing in the low deck, why don't they offer their heads with a raised intake port option so any RB intake will fit on a B engine? There was some Mopar Performance heads called Stage VI that had raised intake ports where any RB intake (bar MW) would just bolt on the low deck when fitted with Stage VI obviously, but they were hellishly expensive like $2000ea bare.
Apparently they flowed sort of in the 330CFM range out of the box. They could also be ordered with MW profile ports and flowed ~370CFM. If you used the MP Stage VI on a RB then you had to run spacers (similar to running a B intake on an RB) but vice versa any RB intake would just screw on.
Seems like a missed opportunity, since who wants to be stuck with expensive and rare, old tech low deck intake manifold selection on your 500"+ low deck when there are so very many affordable interesting single and multi carb intakes both modern and old for the RB? Practically nothing for the B in comparison.
Good points! I like the low decks for sure
Is that the stock springs that came on them? I can’t remember how much lift they said they’re good for?
Yes sir. This was the stock set
What's the music Celtic? besides the heads,cam, compression,Do you need adjustable rockers with a hyd roller?
Almost always need adjustable rockers with Amy roller set up. It’s a serious increase in lift over factory
Joe, what grade steel wool did you use? 0000?
I think it was 000. I didn’t have the bag anymore 😂
Do you have a recommendation for a high volume oil pump? Melling? Mopar Performance?
Meiling has always been good enough for my stuff. Milodon will have a more expensive option.
I have an engine assembled by a rebuilder that when I primed the engine never really felt resistance in the drill. Upon startup it took I think too long to build up no more than 30 psi. My roller lifters don’t want to stop making noise. I used your video to check valve lash but I still get some chatter. The pump that is in there was a new Melling regular pump. I don’t even recall seeing it build up pressure with RPM.
I’m going to switch out the pump for another high volume pump I used to use on a six pack engine.
Do you have any thoughts on possible causes of poor pressure? I am using Trickflow heads and they said there is a restrictor built in the heads and they are designed to use the Harland sharp rockers on the heads
@ the heads do restrict to 1/8” hole. It almost sounds like there’s a terrible clearance problem (cam, main, or rod bearings)or did they leave a plug out of the front galley? It should always increase with engine speed. You can buy the Mopar high pressure spring and use in your current pump and see if it helps.
I was thinking about them leaving the galley plug out. But would that provide any pressure if that were the case?
How many plugs are there? There’s no oil coming out the backside of the engine. They do mostly Chevy engines and they might have neglected to put one in? If I remove the front timing chain cover will that expose any plugs that should be in place?
I can’t see them installing the bearings wrong. The original bearings were in great shape so I don’t think all of a sudden there is a lot of bearing clearance. Wouldn’t I hear a knock sound if the clearance was the bearing clearance was that bad?
I have the original high volume oil pump to put back in. If that doesn’t improve the pressure something has to be wrong. The old pump created 60 pounds at idle before.
@@jimdrechsel3611 if you pull the cover, you’ll see the plugs, except for under the timing chain. High volume doesn’t always mean high pressure. Your old pump may have the higher pressure spring in it, that you could swap out as well.
How much did milling .030 of the deck reduce the chamber volume?
It’s advertised 6-7cc online. I haven’t been able to measure again yet
Hey what grade of steel wool were you using?
I believe this was OO
How many sets of those have you used?
This will be the first ones I’ve ever bolted on anything. Lol
Valve weights are in ounces?
I think so 😂 that’s what I get for rushing
@@JustMoparJoe lol…. I converted this values from ounces to grams and they make sense. 132 grams for the intake and 119 for the exhaust. That’s a little lighter than the factory 2.08/1.74 valves. Awesome!
Are these heads made in the U.S.A.? I looked it up and it just stated the valve retainers are made in the U.S.A. Makes me think they are just another chinese head.
I’m almost certain they are cast in China.
If the piston is shoving the ex gas out you have the WRONG CAM.
You can’t get caught up on the little things so much. Maybe I misspoke. Maybe You misunderstood what I was implying in the statement. The video is about the heads. What’s you think about them?
I tell you one thing thet better than Ed Heads, but Trick Flow offers the very best replacement head.
@@racerd9669 I actually picked up some 240’s from Ed today. Video is coming soon
I would send them back and buy Trick Flow, or Promax. You will be thankful you did.@@JustMoparJoe
These do not work with 1.6 ratio rocker arms without clearincing the upper push rod area...buyer beware!!!
Absolute truth!
1972 Dodge Charger Thrash! Ready to Start After 30 Years! #mopar #bigblock #nonamenationals #440
ua-cam.com/video/tHxJYvEmHLU/v-deo.html
Those are not good chamber design heads. The best are Brodix Mopar B1 heads, followed by the Trick Flow Power Port 270 heads. Chambers you are looking at make no sense.
We know there’s better. But they cost a lot more. 😂