You would be the only welder I would trust to weld my engine block if I needed that done!!I enjoy all your videos no matter what your welding on. Thank you for your humor and humility.
I learned this back in the60’s. I worked at a machine shop that did nothing but” cold weld” engine blocks and heads. We could do cracks in the valve seats even. Very simple technique if you have the right materials and tools. Loved that job. Went to school half a day and worked the rest and also Saturdays. I worked there 4 years. Good times to be alive in the 60’s and the muscle car era.
There is another version of that called Irontite plugs. They are actually made of cast iron so there is no thermal expansion differences, and have a tapered thread like pipe plugs. I have put in hundreds of them when I worked at a machine shop. They even work inside combustion chambers on cracked heads. I never had any fail over the years. They come in a bunch of sizes, but I typically used ones about the same size that you were using.
One of the first jobs I had in an automotive machine shop was fixing cracks like that using the tapered thread iron plugs, probably same as you are talking about. It worked, but obviously tedious. I had good attention to detail and was extremely cheap labor, so got to do most all of those jobs.
I worked in a Napa machine shop in the 70's My boss, an old boy used the irontite plugs a number of times. He called it sewing. "Got to get out my sewing kit" lol. Thanks for the video.
I was using the English metalock system in the 80’s here in NZ , the studs and keys were about 80% nickel so it expanded and contracted the same amount as cast iron but was BA threads and taps were hard to get and expensive. Did some great jobs on ships, large machinery etc.
I first saw Lock N Stitch on Jay Leno's repair blog, but he never showed the process, only the finished result. It's cool you demonstrated how this actually works, which is amazing. Another tool for your expertise.
Great to see this method being used. The largest engines in the world, 2-stroke cycle crosshead marine diesels are repaired by metal stitching. It is a tried and true method for fixing cracks in cast iron.
That was a nice job Isaac. A guy told me about that process years ago but I didn’t really understand what he was talking about, now I know what it is thanks to your video. All the best Isaac.
That was a really interesting video! Thanks! Master welder decides NOT to weld. I didn't know about that type of crack repair...It looks slow. but not risky!
Thank you for the interesting repair type, of which I have never used. I do seem to have a lot of cast iron in use at my shop and with what friends seem to send me for repair, I wish you, family and channel a good season. McGary
65-75 years ago it wasn’t unusual for farmers to use plain water in their tractors & drain it for the winter, once in awhile they’d forget to drain Oops then they’d just make a patch & remember to drain the water. I saw 2-3 that were done that way. Progress isn’t it neat, this would be better I think. Thank you Sir for this learning something different, maybe better.
Never seen this before and after reading the comments it seems to be a well known process. I bought one of those wire clamping tools the last time you showed it and it is great for making hose repairs that don't have a big lump. I've used stainless wire a lot over the years , but this tool makes it very easy.
Excellent choice. No heat input that can cause even more cracks at stress points. You saved the owner a ton of money. I used to work in an automotive machine shop in the mid too60's to early 70's and we used this method to repair cast iron.
What a great Teacher and Skillset. You and a Handful of others are what I call Skilled Tradesmen. I sure love you making Items go from trash To Gold. Thank you for always sharing your wins and sometimes Lessons to the Whole world. You Rock....
That is an excellent method for repairing any rare engine blocks or a numbers matching to keep the vehicles originality . Labor and time intensive but should cost less than a new block !
You never fail to amaze me with your skills! I didn't know that product even existed, I've been brazing all my repair jobs! THANK YOU, for showing us how it's done.😁✌️
I've seen this process before, but not in this detail. Thank you! Most of the vintage Deere machines I work on are cast iron blocks, so I'm definitely going to consider this for the next time I deal with a crack.
As a District Manager for GM during the 70's and 80's, it was determined that casting issues had developed at the engine foundries that manifested into cracks in the block of the 350 cubic inch engines. Since customers had found out what used to "divisional motors" (Chevy, Pontiac, Buick, Oldsmobile, Cadillac) were (via Roger Smith's cost cutting) amalgamated into one engine, the 350 for all divisions and GM wanted to validate that the global engine could be trusted for longevity. Until the foundry issue could be sorted out, that wasn't the case and the dealers were plagued with the crack problem. The customers never realized what was being done to their brand new car. The Fix: Was exactly what you're doing in the video except each geographic area (Zone Office) had an "expert" trained at block stitching. The primary difference is that we carried a portable Magna-Flux machine to detect the extent of the crack or cracks. After stitching the block, we used a two-part heat proof epoxy and OEM matching engine paint. Done correctly, not even a skilled technician would notice the repair. For all the blocks that were stitched I never heard of a future failure so obviously the foundation for the technique had merit.
I’ve seen that product before thanks all the same. I like the idea of that hose clamp device. Maybe a piece of heat shrink over that wire wouldn’t be a bad idea. And yes, those clamps hose clamps are bulky right at the end of your air hose.
When I first saw the title of the video my first thought was you don't weld the engine block you metal stitch it. I started metal stitching 25 years ago. Chrysler hemi block's are notorious for cracks into the water jacket and I have repaired many using metal stitching. I use lock n stitch and I recommend it to everyone dealing with cracked cast iron.
Lock and Stitch replaced a section of the block on my early hemi....No issues and it gets hot here in Vegas...Had an old welder years ago tell me cast iron is just like glass and heat will show stress cracks you don't see especially when blocks freeze....
I had a big block Chrysler,, left water in over winter,,, broke out both sides,,, cleaned the pics real good places them back in drilled all the cracks at the stops ,,, block in oven for an hour, pre heated in front of brazing all cracks including freeze plugs areas , clean up painted reinstalled,,, ran that race motor for 2 years,,, not one leak !
Hi I C weld I really like your channel the welding stuff you do and by the way, I look up to you also because you’re very kind hard person. That’s why I like your UA-cam channel.
That’s a very cool fix, as cast iron is tricky to weld. Looks like a fix that the average shade tree mechanic could do with basic tools. Cheers from Tokyo!
Great work as always. Now I want to try that out and I definitely need that wire type hose clamp for all the air and water hoses. I deal with those would be great thanks, Isaac.
We were taught the treaded taper cast plugs back in 1963. Just sew them up. Had an instructor that drove an old ford flat head 6 with a cyl. Wall sewed up.
😅 well I'm 74 years old I've had a shot for over 50 years and I was taught by a man of world war II soldier how to weld cast iron and I have repaired a lot of cylinder heads and cylinder blocks on various engines over the years and there's one engine in particular I did many years ago and the guys in Illinois with it busted up so bad but I tore it all down I did all my welding put it all back together and yeah you still got it still working but I was taught by a man it's nearly probably 100 years old now if he was still alive but he he taught me and showed me how to to nickel weld and a bunch of other stuff and then I've also discovered things I can do with a MIG welder
I saw a product like this back in the 60s, only difference was it was a taper on the bolt, and when it snapped off, it left about a 1/4 inch shoulder, that you peaned it over. The bolts were cast iron too, the called it Stitching the Block.
i have done that when working for Campbell Crankshaft Service. I used a quarter inch steel rod and threaded it fine thread screwed it in cut it off then repeat. cheaper than kit. when done just lightly peaned it to lock all in place. that is a really good repair.
This company was from the same town that I spent the first 40 years of my life and a product that was developed in a little shop over the years they have did everything from caterpillar heads to other weird little projects never had a failure just an unbelievable product
I was waiting for u to bring out the stick welder..LOL. But s pretty cool. Great before, during, and after. That part helps the to learn the whole process&resources too
I too wondered how the process worked,and who better than you to teach an old dog new tricks,I'm 71,,,many yrs ago another old guy taught me to repair an hydraulic cast relief pressure assembly on a digger I pin punched the entire length of the crack either side,an amazing result,you know what the shock loading of hydraulic pressure may have been,well it never leaked in the following 10 yrs I had the digger, Just thought it was worth sharing
I first came across this method in 1981, I was tasked with repairing a large cast iron machine tool base. I found a company that repaired large marine engine cylinder blocks, he had never done a machine tool before. It worked very well and was almost invisible when complete. Great Job
I had never heard of or seen this method before. Different and definitely a long-winded, tedious process but, would work great when it’s impractical to preheat and weld.
If you use that system again, try to get a shorter drill bit. It kept hanging up on you at the end of the hole because the long shaft allowed the bit to twist when you snagged at the bottom of the hole. A shorter bit is more rigid, and it will keep cutting.
Slick repair, with the needle scaler you would hardly even know. More than once I have repaired hoses with fencing wire, lockwire style one full wrap and twist with pliers. Although that tool is quick and nifty.
I made one of those wire hose clamp tools using a water shutoff tool that I bought at Home Depot and I generally use it when I need a hose clamp. I also use electric fence wire because it's galvanized and doesn't rust like tie wire does. But I also found on Amazon a "make a custom hose clamp" kit with a bunch of screw buckles and a roll of that matching banding in stainless steel and I use it whenever I need big hose clamps.
That is the way I have done that for many years now.There is no better way IMHO. There is a company In Tuksa OK called Reynolds--French and they used to have a really good website on some of their repair work. Metal stitching is a one of the tings they do. Interesting things. Cheers
I don't a block over 20 years ago with JB weld and it is still in my mustang and has never leaked a drop. I could see doing a job like you did if it is a high hp race engine but not for a street engine.
Back in the 1970's there was a fellow that would do this called metal lacing. Not only would he fix cracks in blocks but would also fix holes by using scrap pieces of cast iron and lacing it in.
I had a friend bring me a 2.8 L v/6 engine that the rod blew a hole in the side,he had the peace that got knocked out it had part of the flat surface where you bolt the oil pan to. Well it was a challenge to get it to match up exactly so we got it as close as we could, I got the flat surface really good but the outer surface didn’t fit as good . He wanted me to weld it back,I had a stick welder,& he said he had a special rod for cast iron welding .i did my best getting the welds as close to each other as I could,& and overlapped what I thought might need more,& when finished didn’t look to bad,off he went put it back together, he said the repair came out good,with no leaks,I enjoy welding things & fabrication.i guess that job was good enough,he was all happy with the results.when I saw the topic i thought also you were going to take out the ark welder, it seems like a long process,but what counts is that it holds right.i like watching your videos because i learned from them,your a wealth of information thanks for doing what you do.
Try this. You have to pine the weld. As the metal cools it wants to shrink , making a new crack. Weld an inch or so, the using the pointed end of a chipping Hamer , hit he heck out of it. 50 hits quickly as the metal cools down and there will be no new cracks.
nice video Isaac ...you showed that old method as good or better than Ive ever seen. I was expecting you to weld it up because that is what you do so masterfully but was interesting to watch you share that non welding repair as well - thank You NOT trying to steal your smoke but believe it or not original JB Weld works for engine block repairs - I live in Buffalo NY and have a V-10 Ford plow truck - these engines are notorious for actually rotting holes out of the engine block here in the rust belt- especially behind the starter....my hole was about the size of a golf ball coolant pressure blew it out without warning.... I removed the starter and used a die grinder to clean up the hole and the block about an inch all around the hole and cut a piece out of a steel coffee can as big as would fit inside the hole and then ground its surface to roughen it up. I brazed a thin rod to it so I had something to hold on to and put it inside the block. While one hand held tension on the brazing rod - with the other I used a small putty knife to paint on JB WELD best I could to close hole and cover the areas around the hole that I had just cleaned up. after letting it harden up to hold form I snipped off the brazing rod and over that applied a finish coat of JB WELD and let it cure a couple days in a 70 degree shop. I reinstalled the starter / filled with anti freeze and drove the truck....that repair has held without any leaks for more than four years - Im still using the truck.......call me crazy but I had 3 choices pull the engine and try to patch with braze/weld .....replace the engine.....or do what I did - repair with JB WELD....sometimes you just have to be a nut. : - )
That's a good one😅. I live here too, the only thing I've repaired with JBweld is the rusted holes in my 7.3 oil pan. Drain oil, clean with brake clean, wire brush and fill hole with the JB weld(I used the epoxy stuff instead of 2 part 'metal' mix) let dry overnight & refill oil. It worked well until another hole started leaking.🤦🏻♂️ It's terrible how bad the rust is here! I hate what it does to our vehicles! 😠👍🏻👌🏻🛠️🔧🔩🛢️ ✊🏻🇺🇸🦅🇺🇸✊🏻
I’ve seen this process before on a old cast tractor block from the 1940, It was seeping coolant through the side of the casting, As far as I know it wasn’t no more trouble and still being used at specialised events 🇬🇧🇮🇪.
I am always eager to learn something new and today I did !! Awesome these work like a charm a cool new way to make repairs Cast Iron !! Very nice work !!
I like the hose repair kits using a compression fitting to hold the hose. The only drawback is you have to have the ones that fit your exact o.d. and i.d., so if you have a lot of different sized hoses you need to keep enough on hand. There is nothing rough to chew up your hands though when they are installed and they can be reused many times. Several manufacturers make them.
I like to top off the wire clamp with some heat shrink tubeing with the glue. It also acts like a strain relief on the hose. Last much longer than the origional brass crimp ferrule.
sounds like Hurricane Debby outside......I had heard about the lock and stitch, never have seen them used, you gave a great demo.......and the hose clamp gizmo is really kool device......thanks for showing all these great things......cheers from over in Florida, Paul
my father used to be a machinist and built engines. he used a similar product from goodson . i still have an old boat he had with a gm 4 cylinder that was froze before he got it and cracked along bottom of sleeves in crankcase he used that repair with a thin layer of epoxy over the area probably 25+ years ago and has never had water in oil and still running
Well Isaac, you do great work and I love seeing the results of your work. But, I'm a Chevy man and that dead Ford motor should have been salvaged then recycled!😅
Nice work as usual Isaac . I used to do it with nickel rod and a buzz box . But that was on empty blocks and some preheat (but that might get a little sketchy with that one . They didn't have that neat stuff when I done that . looked great . :)
@johnjay5143 Am trying to keep the old oxy acetylene flame alive. Have you ever tried to use tobin bronze after making a groove into the crack? It seems that tobin bronze, also called Naval Brass, needs little and localised preheating. It melts at 895 C as opposed to nickel at 1400 C .Used extensively on ships because of its versatility and machinability to fix steel, cast iron copper bronze and nickel alloys.
I've seen this method used before with a jig that maximize the spacing between the pins and allows you to drill two holes at one time and use the spacer to punch the next hole in proper place. I though it was neat...
You can do much the same thing with small pipe plugs. 1/8" NPT works fairly well. Drill the applicable sized hole, tap it with a 1/8" NPT tap, dope your pipe plug and run it in. Grind it off, centre punch on the plug so your next hole will overlap 1/3 to 1/2 of the diameter, and repeat.
I welded a cracked block on a 5.9 dodge ram right bank , V'ed deep and used NI-CAST 1/8 at 90 amps, worked good.
I have never seen nor heard of that sort of repair. Learn something new every day.
You would be the only welder I would trust to weld my engine block if I needed that done!!I enjoy all your videos no matter what your welding on. Thank you for your humor and humility.
Thank you for the vote of confidence
Always up for learning, enjoyed that. Thanks!
That wasn't really welding. I welded 2 vices one with a mig and the other with a stick welder, both have been holding up better vs the cast iron.
I learned this back in the60’s. I worked at a machine shop that did nothing but” cold weld” engine blocks and heads. We could do cracks in the valve seats even. Very simple technique if you have the right materials and tools. Loved that job. Went to school half a day and worked the rest and also Saturdays. I worked there 4 years. Good times to be alive in the 60’s and the muscle car era.
There is another version of that called Irontite plugs. They are actually made of cast iron so there is no thermal expansion differences, and have a tapered thread like pipe plugs. I have put in hundreds of them when I worked at a machine shop. They even work inside combustion chambers on cracked heads. I never had any fail over the years. They come in a bunch of sizes, but I typically used ones about the same size that you were using.
One of the first jobs I had in an automotive machine shop was fixing cracks like that using the tapered thread iron plugs, probably same as you are talking about. It worked, but obviously tedious. I had good attention to detail and was extremely cheap labor, so got to do most all of those jobs.
I worked in a Napa machine shop in the 70's My boss, an old boy used the irontite plugs a number of times. He called it sewing. "Got to get out my sewing kit" lol. Thanks for the video.
I was using the English metalock system in the 80’s here in NZ , the studs and keys were about 80% nickel so it expanded and contracted the same amount as cast iron but was BA threads and taps were hard to get and expensive. Did some great jobs on ships, large machinery etc.
And we used electromagnet and iron powder to indicate where the crank was 👍😎✊
@@cjespers These have been around since the 70s? Wow!. Thought bronze brazing was the only way.
The one time you’re happy when a bolt snaps off.
Way to go Isaac, excellent choice. Their product produces awesome repairs. I know Karen and Kurtis will be checking this out closely!
Hope so!!
Don’t think Kurtis would approve
I first saw Lock N Stitch on Jay Leno's repair blog, but he never showed the process, only the finished result. It's cool you demonstrated how this actually works, which is amazing. Another tool for your expertise.
Great to see this method being used. The largest engines in the world, 2-stroke cycle crosshead marine diesels are repaired by metal stitching. It is a tried and true method for fixing cracks in cast iron.
That was a nice job Isaac. A guy told me about that process years ago but I didn’t really understand what he was talking about, now I know what it is thanks to your video. All the best Isaac.
I call it a good day when I learn something new. It’s twice a good day! Thank you sir. 😊
Thank You Issac......best wishes from Florida, Paulie
That was a really interesting video! Thanks! Master welder decides NOT to weld. I didn't know about that type of crack repair...It looks slow. but not risky!
Thank you for the interesting repair type, of which I have never used. I do seem to have a lot of cast iron in use at my shop and with what friends seem to send me for repair, I wish you, family and channel a good season. McGary
65-75 years ago it wasn’t unusual for farmers to use plain water in their tractors & drain it for the winter, once in awhile they’d forget to drain Oops then they’d just make a patch & remember to drain the water. I saw 2-3 that were done that way. Progress isn’t it neat, this would be better I think. Thank you Sir for this learning something different, maybe better.
That's awesome. I always wondered how that system worked. Thank you so much. Looks like a darn good repair method.
Never seen this before and after reading the comments it seems to be a well known process. I bought one of those wire clamping tools the last time you showed it and it is great for making hose repairs that don't have a big lump. I've used stainless wire a lot over the years , but this tool makes it very easy.
I did too. It is in my off road tool box
Excellent choice. No heat input that can cause even more cracks at stress points. You saved the owner a ton of money. I used to work in an automotive machine shop in the mid too60's to early 70's and we used this method to repair cast iron.
I used them on my boat engine several years ago and haven't had an issue. I love their product.
What a great Teacher and Skillset. You and a Handful of others are what I call Skilled Tradesmen. I sure love you making Items go from trash To Gold. Thank you for always sharing your wins and sometimes Lessons to the Whole world. You Rock....
That is an excellent method for repairing any rare engine blocks or a numbers matching to keep the vehicles originality . Labor and time intensive but should cost less than a new block !
I have heard of this method but had never seen it done.
Thank You Issac.
Best Wishes to You and Your Family.
You never fail to amaze me with your skills! I didn't know that product even existed, I've been brazing all my repair jobs! THANK YOU, for showing us how it's done.😁✌️
I've seen this process before, but not in this detail. Thank you!
Most of the vintage Deere machines I work on are cast iron blocks, so I'm definitely going to consider this for the next time I deal with a crack.
Glad it was helpful!
Iv used these on cast iron transfer case housing they work so good expensive but such a solid result on the repair ,,, just phenomenal
As a District Manager for GM during the 70's and 80's, it was determined that casting issues had developed at the engine foundries that manifested into cracks in the block of the 350 cubic inch engines. Since customers had found out what used to "divisional motors" (Chevy, Pontiac, Buick, Oldsmobile, Cadillac) were (via Roger Smith's cost cutting) amalgamated into one engine, the 350 for all divisions and GM wanted to validate that the global engine could be trusted for longevity. Until the foundry issue could be sorted out, that wasn't the case and the dealers were plagued with the crack problem. The customers never realized what was being done to their brand new car. The Fix: Was exactly what you're doing in the video except each geographic area (Zone Office) had an "expert" trained at block stitching. The primary difference is that we carried a portable Magna-Flux machine to detect the extent of the crack or cracks. After stitching the block, we used a two-part heat proof epoxy and OEM matching engine paint. Done correctly, not even a skilled technician would notice the repair. For all the blocks that were stitched I never heard of a future failure so obviously the foundation for the technique had merit.
Every job requires a blood sacrifice 😊
I’ve seen that product before thanks all the same. I like the idea of that hose clamp device. Maybe a piece of heat shrink over that wire wouldn’t be a bad idea. And yes, those clamps hose clamps are bulky right at the end of your air hose.
I've used that clamp tool on many repairs but I use stainless safety wire since I already had it. Then I use heat shrink over the top.
Great tip!
That is very cool!
Same, I always have one in my toolbox. I think the one I use is from Clamptite, and for most things .032 stainless lock wire works a treat.
@@suzu9404 Yes, same wire diameter I use most often.
never heard of this, and wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it. a good solution. thanks.
Thanks! Easier than welding on cast! And the hose clamp tool pretty cool too!
*I C Weld* Bravo well done, thank-you sir for taking the time to bring us along. GOD Bless.
WoW! What a cool product! I have never seen that done before. And saving some old iron in the process too. Congrats! Thanks for the video.😀👍
When I first saw the title of the video my first thought was you don't weld the engine block you metal stitch it. I started metal stitching 25 years ago. Chrysler hemi block's are notorious for cracks into the water jacket and I have repaired many using metal stitching. I use lock n stitch and I recommend it to everyone dealing with cracked cast iron.
Lock and Stitch replaced a section of the block on my early hemi....No issues and it gets hot here in Vegas...Had an old welder years ago tell me cast iron is just like glass and heat will show stress cracks you don't see especially when blocks freeze....
I had a big block Chrysler,, left water in over winter,,, broke out both sides,,, cleaned the pics real good places them back in drilled all the cracks at the stops ,,, block in oven for an hour, pre heated in front of brazing all cracks including freeze plugs areas , clean up painted reinstalled,,, ran that race motor for 2 years,,, not one leak !
P.s. this was in the 80’s ,,,, lol
Hi I C weld I really like your channel the welding stuff you do and by the way, I look up to you also because you’re very kind hard person. That’s why I like your UA-cam channel.
That’s a very cool fix, as cast iron is tricky to weld. Looks like a fix that the average shade tree mechanic could do with basic tools.
Cheers from Tokyo!
Great work as always. Now I want to try that out and I definitely need that wire type hose clamp for all the air and water hoses. I deal with those would be great thanks, Isaac.
Thats a pretty slick kit!
We were taught the treaded taper cast plugs back in 1963.
Just sew them up.
Had an instructor that drove an old ford flat head 6 with a cyl. Wall sewed up.
😅 well I'm 74 years old I've had a shot for over 50 years and I was taught by a man of world war II soldier how to weld cast iron and I have repaired a lot of cylinder heads and cylinder blocks on various engines over the years and there's one engine in particular I did many years ago and the guys in Illinois with it busted up so bad but I tore it all down I did all my welding put it all back together and yeah you still got it still working but I was taught by a man it's nearly probably 100 years old now if he was still alive but he he taught me and showed me how to to nickel weld and a bunch of other stuff and then I've also discovered things I can do with a MIG welder
I saw a product like this back in the 60s, only difference was it was a taper on the bolt, and when it snapped off, it left about a 1/4 inch shoulder, that you peaned it over. The bolts were cast iron too, the called it Stitching the Block.
i have done that when working for Campbell Crankshaft Service. I used a quarter inch steel rod and threaded it fine thread screwed it in cut it off then repeat. cheaper than kit. when done just lightly peaned it to lock all in place. that is a really good repair.
This company was from the same town that I spent the first 40 years of my life and a product that was developed in a little shop over the years they have did everything from caterpillar heads to other weird little projects never had a failure just an unbelievable product
😎💯✌🎄good job an good luck,I did that to a sbc cylinder head
Very interesting method! You produce some of the best content on yt.
very nice work almost an invisible repair less risk than welding no cracking as the weld cools
I was waiting for u to bring out the stick welder..LOL. But s pretty cool. Great before, during, and after. That part helps the to learn the whole process&resources too
I used lock n stitch on a Model Ford engine. Really good solution to cranks in castings.
I too wondered how the process worked,and who better than you to teach an old dog new tricks,I'm 71,,,many yrs ago another old guy taught me to repair an hydraulic cast relief pressure assembly on a digger I pin punched the entire length of the crack either side,an amazing result,you know what the shock loading of hydraulic pressure may have been,well it never leaked in the following 10 yrs I had the digger,
Just thought it was worth sharing
I first came across this method in 1981, I was tasked with repairing a large cast iron machine tool base. I found a company that repaired large marine engine cylinder blocks, he had never done a machine tool before. It worked very well and was almost invisible when complete. Great Job
Something I forgot and something new. Great save on this FE block, most likely a 390 or even bigger cubic inch displacement engine
Wow.... That came out 10 Xs better looking than I thought it would! Very nice.
I use a similar product to fix cracks in cylinder head surfaces. Have had really good luck with them.
Ive seen them before my friends dad had 305 block frozen cracked the block he stitched it with them worked great for yrs still running
Wow Great Video This Method is Great To See!
Lock N Stitch repaired a very large compressor frame when I was working for a refinery in California and they do amazing work.
Good to know!
Love my clamprite! Been a fan for years!
I had never heard of or seen this method before. Different and definitely a long-winded, tedious process but, would work great when it’s impractical to preheat and weld.
Brilliant job. I have used brass in the past.
Hello, very nice adjustment work in France we call it "a chain stitch" thank you for your videos they are superb. cordial friendship from France
Thanks for Sharing... Great Job. Yeah the 345 International V8 heads will crack if they get Hot. Have Fun
Interesting solution! Hope that works. It seems better than welding cast. It was something different! Thank for sharing!
If you use that system again, try to get a shorter drill bit. It kept hanging up on you at the end of the hole because the long shaft allowed the bit to twist when you snagged at the bottom of the hole. A shorter bit is more rigid, and it will keep cutting.
great showing how its done. like it👍🏻
Thanks, Isaac. Interesting stuff mate. I've never seen this kind repair. 🇦🇺👀
Slick repair, with the needle scaler you would hardly even know.
More than once I have repaired hoses with fencing wire, lockwire style one full wrap and twist with pliers. Although that tool is quick and nifty.
I made one of those wire hose clamp tools using a water shutoff tool that I bought at Home Depot and I generally use it when I need a hose clamp. I also use electric fence wire because it's galvanized and doesn't rust like tie wire does. But I also found on Amazon a "make a custom hose clamp" kit with a bunch of screw buckles and a roll of that matching banding in stainless steel and I use it whenever I need big hose clamps.
Nice repair! Hose repair was awesome! Looks like it could get you out of a bind off road hose repairs
That is the way I have done that for many years now.There is no better way IMHO. There is a company In Tuksa OK called Reynolds--French and they used to have a really good website on some of their repair work. Metal stitching is a one of the tings they do. Interesting things. Cheers
Thank you for teaching me this wire clamp trick.
Repaired a cracked block on a 54 olds w powdered iron mixed w kw radiator sealer in a paste never leaked 🎉
I don't a block over 20 years ago with JB weld and it is still in my mustang and has never leaked a drop. I could see doing a job like you did if it is a high hp race engine but not for a street engine.
Great repair Isaac that was a cool video to watch!!!!!
Back in the 1970's there was a fellow that would do this called metal lacing. Not only would he fix cracks in blocks but would also fix holes by using scrap pieces of cast iron and lacing it in.
I had a friend bring me a 2.8 L v/6 engine that the rod blew a hole in the side,he had the peace that got knocked out it had part of the flat surface where you bolt the oil pan to. Well it was a challenge to get it to match up exactly so we got it as close as we could, I got the flat surface really good but the outer surface didn’t fit as good . He wanted me to weld it back,I had a stick welder,& he said he had a special rod for cast iron welding .i did my best getting the welds as close to each other as I could,& and overlapped what I thought might need more,& when finished didn’t look to bad,off he went put it back together, he said the repair came out good,with no leaks,I enjoy welding things & fabrication.i guess that job was good enough,he was all happy with the results.when I saw the topic i thought also you were going to take out the ark welder, it seems like a long process,but what counts is that it holds right.i like watching your videos because i learned from them,your a wealth of information thanks for doing what you do.
Try this. You have to pine the weld. As the metal cools it wants to shrink , making a new crack. Weld an inch or so, the using the pointed end of a chipping Hamer , hit he heck out of it. 50 hits quickly as the metal cools down and there will be no new cracks.
Very interesting product. I'll need to keep that in my back pocket.
nice video Isaac ...you showed that old method as good or better than Ive ever seen. I was expecting you to weld it up because that is what you do so masterfully but was interesting to watch you share that non welding repair as well - thank You
NOT trying to steal your smoke but believe it or not original JB Weld works for engine block repairs - I live in Buffalo NY and have a V-10 Ford plow truck - these engines are notorious for actually rotting holes out of the engine block here in the rust belt- especially behind the starter....my hole was about the size of a golf ball coolant pressure blew it out without warning.... I removed the starter and used a die grinder to clean up the hole and the block about an inch all around the hole and cut a piece out of a steel coffee can as big as would fit inside the hole and then ground its surface to roughen it up. I brazed a thin rod to it so I had something to hold on to and put it inside the block. While one hand held tension on the brazing rod - with the other I used a small putty knife to paint on JB WELD best I could to close hole and cover the areas around the hole that I had just cleaned up. after letting it harden up to hold form I snipped off the brazing rod and over that applied a finish coat of JB WELD and let it cure a couple days in a 70 degree shop. I reinstalled the starter / filled with anti freeze and drove the truck....that repair has held without any leaks for more than four years - Im still using the truck.......call me crazy but I had 3 choices pull the engine and try to patch with braze/weld .....replace the engine.....or do what I did - repair with JB WELD....sometimes you just have to be a nut. : - )
That's a good one😅. I live here too, the only thing I've repaired with JBweld is the rusted holes in my 7.3 oil pan. Drain oil, clean with brake clean, wire brush and fill hole with the JB weld(I used the epoxy stuff instead of 2 part 'metal' mix) let dry overnight & refill oil. It worked well until another hole started leaking.🤦🏻♂️ It's terrible how bad the rust is here! I hate what it does to our vehicles! 😠👍🏻👌🏻🛠️🔧🔩🛢️
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Thats crazy.. JB weld is great for many applications
Good video and i like the air hose repair!
I’ve seen this process before on a old cast tractor block from the 1940, It was seeping coolant through the side of the casting, As far as I know it wasn’t no more trouble and still being used at specialised events 🇬🇧🇮🇪.
I am always eager to learn something new and today I did !! Awesome these work like a charm a cool new way to make repairs Cast Iron !! Very nice work !!
Very interesting process. Thanks for the demonstration.
I like the hose repair kits using a compression fitting to hold the hose. The only drawback is you have to have the ones that fit your exact o.d. and i.d., so if you have a lot of different sized hoses you need to keep enough on hand. There is nothing rough to chew up your hands though when they are installed and they can be reused many times. Several manufacturers make them.
Nice lil repair Issac. Great video. Thanks
I like to top off the wire clamp with some heat shrink tubeing with the glue. It also acts like a strain relief on the hose. Last much longer than the origional brass crimp ferrule.
Thanks for sharring, allways wondered how those worked!
👍🏻 stitched it up nicely
Really great video I'm always learning from you Isaac 👍🏻 thank you.
sounds like Hurricane Debby outside......I had heard about the lock and stitch, never have seen them used, you gave a great demo.......and the hose clamp gizmo is really kool device......thanks for showing all these great things......cheers from over in Florida, Paul
Thank you for sharing, another great job, i learn a lot, always a pleasure watch you and your project 👍👍👍👍
my father used to be a machinist and built engines. he used a similar product from goodson . i still have an old boat he had with a gm 4 cylinder that was froze before he got it and cracked along bottom of sleeves in crankcase he used that repair with a thin layer of epoxy over the area probably 25+ years ago and has never had water in oil and still running
We used to call that process "cold welding". It is a tedious process but if done right works great because there is no heat involved.
Well Isaac, you do great work and I love seeing the results of your work. But, I'm a Chevy man and that dead Ford motor should have been salvaged then recycled!😅
What in world you doin with a engine block, good video, thanks
Nice too see I'm not the only one taking a grinder to my hand😅
Nice job, first time is always a struggle, next time will bring new struggles.
Nice work as usual Isaac . I used to do it with nickel rod and a buzz box . But that was on empty blocks and some preheat (but that might get a little sketchy with that one . They didn't have that neat stuff when I done that . looked great . :)
@johnjay5143 Am trying to keep the old oxy acetylene flame alive. Have you ever tried to use tobin bronze after making a groove into the crack? It seems that tobin bronze, also called Naval Brass, needs little and localised preheating. It melts at 895 C as opposed to nickel at 1400 C .Used extensively on ships because of its versatility and machinability to fix steel, cast iron copper bronze and nickel alloys.
Once again thank you I learned something new.
I've seen this method used before with a jig that maximize the spacing between the pins and allows you to drill two holes at one time and use the spacer to punch the next hole in proper place. I though it was neat...
You can do much the same thing with small pipe plugs. 1/8" NPT works fairly well. Drill the applicable sized hole, tap it with a 1/8" NPT tap, dope your pipe plug and run it in. Grind it off, centre punch on the plug so your next hole will overlap 1/3 to 1/2 of the diameter, and repeat.