They should have flow tested that dirty old head, then hot tanked them and flow tested them again and then flow test them after all the port and polish work. I thinking it would have added a great deal of information as to what to expect between "as cast and dirty", "as cast and cleaned", and then ported and polished flow numbers. Seeing the difference in the cfm flow would have been a great way to show (prove) the benefits of the work.
It would also be good to see what effect port matching the intake had on flow. Results are inconsistent from what I've seen and read. Some say it makes no difference. Some say they've seen losses after port matching.
I have been reading Hotrod since 1962. Back then, this was the way things were done as machine work and labor was expensive. Anyone can spend cubic money to achieve these results, but the true hotrodder does what he can and saves money at the same time. Great video.
50 years ago I put 5 hp Briggs and Stratton valves in a 3 hp Briggs and Stratton engine and milled the head on my dads sander in his woodshop, to hop up my mini bike, ended up kicking but on those Honda mini trails, years later I put Chevy Corvette valves in my ford 289 heads and ported it like this video, it turned my Mustang on big time.
Loved it, I appreciate the effort and time taken to discuss reasons why and what to do when it comes to P&P. Enough so, that I'd take a chance on giving it a go myself. Sometimes it's not about professional machining. Rather, the skills you gain from DIY'ing. I really enjoy your channel, keep it up guys.
I used to build racing 2 stroke engines and got to know porting very well. Never did a car engine but by looking at the set of heads on my dads 289 Ford sitting on the bench there’s some pretty rough casting on those things. He’s gonna have me smooth them up. I got all the tools, looks like I can get most or all of it with just a straight pencil grinder. Doing transfers on 2 stroke jugs you need 90 degree or at least 45 degree pencil grinders. I even have a smaller one you would typically see used at the dentist for chamfering edges and tight corners. Looks like fun, we have a flow bench at work in the engineering lab and I might see if I can slip the manager a $50 and bring the heads in on a Saturday for shits and giggles.
I worked in a foundry as a young man as a casting finisher. On our lunch hours we worked on a guys engine to port and polish it. We took it to the limits by polishing the rocker valley for oil return. We polished the entire block inside and out as well! Did the same for the intake manifold but it was aluminum. The best lubrication for working aluminum is beeswax. 1966
Great tips for a beginner and fun to watch. I thought the porting advice was good, but I would have mentioned that more runner volume might give you more flow, but less power, depending on the head, so don't go nuts hogging it out. Velocity matters. I also protect the seats with duct tape. Enjoyed the video!
I'm tearing down a Chevy 350 boat engine right now and I was just going to have the heads machined to go back on as-is but now I'm considering a port and polish just because- hell, why not?!
Whatever you do just remember marine engines have different specifications than automotive engines! Also most of the components on the engine are regulated by the USCG, Not to mention that using automotive grade parts is extremely dangerous, foolish and can cause some serious issues! When I rebuilt my marine engine I just did a little cleaning and port matching to my cylinder heads! I rebuilt my engine when I purchased my boat in 1995, It is a 1987 GM 4.3L with a two barrel carburetor! Now it is a 4.3L with a little head work, upgraded valve train,small cam, Rochester Quadra jet and headers! And now because of the increase in horsepower and torque I was able to change from a aluminum prop to a bigger stainless steel! If you can do the work yourself it is most definitely worth it! You may ask why install headers on a V6, Because about 21 years ago OMC stopped producing the 4.3L one piece manifolds and no one was producing 4.3L OMC 1 piece aftermarket manifolds yet! My boat was high and dry on the trailer for two years while OMC was giving me the runaround, Then someone told me about a company in Australia that makes direct replacement stainless steel headers for almost all of your marine engines! Those headers we’re worth every penny, They have been on my boat for about 15 years and still look like they were just installed! I live in New Jersey and my boat is docked in salt water all summer every summer and I use the boat every weekend! If you ever have to replace manifolds I suggest you check out this company, Hi-Tek Marine! They are much lighter, take up less room, lower engine compartment temperatures and you will notice horsepower gains and a decrease in fuel consumption! Not to mention you will never have to replace your risers or manifolds again! I have no affiliation with the company I am just a mechanic who was lucky enough to be raised by my grandparents who has a beach house with a boat, And when I come across a product that performs above and beyond expectations I like to pass on the information! Good luck
2 things top list, windage try in oil pan, seen many automotive engines put in boats oil splash kills them quick,have engine balanced a smooth engine is a great way for long-term trouble free performance ,found excellent info here also,also, another video is Head Bytes,,in tenn.older gentleman lot experience ,high volume oil pumps with added dump fittings on back valve covers to oil pan bigger better gets oil back to pump quicker, HV oil pumps can an will suck oil pan dry without
I'm gonna have this done on my DOHC Saturn heads too, but not gonna go past a stage one plus polished combustion chambers on my .20 over hyper piston build, just to increase velocity and to smooth the factor imperfections in the castings as far as the head goes, etc. Great Video!!
I hand ported some cast iron heads on a 5 liter Aussie V8 fitted LT1 springs and stage 3 cam and its livened the engine up massively woke it right up ,pulled way better then stock i polished the backs of the valves to mirror finish
I wasn’t expecting the mL measurement of the chambers after porting and polish. Simple and useful. I was expecting a flowbench test to measure the reduced airflow losses.
at a swapmeet i got a set of Dodge 340 X heads bear. ported and polished them myself, then had a friend that owns a head shop finish them. put them on my 360 that i put back in a 79 step-side. i could really feel the difference from med to high RPM rang. it really is worth the time to do it, if ur ;looking for something alil better than stock. going for HP. buy better aftermarket heads.
There is alot that goes into p&p head work etc. He said 10-12 hrs im thinkin i wish, for me its upwards of a week for boths heads but thats taking alot of caution and making sure my hands are steady and im propped good and taking my time doing a little at a time keeping close eye on what im doing with no interruptions.
Great video guys, very easy to follow, for me, as I do my own DIY work, it is very to the point . Thank you for your time. I will purchase your book as well. Again, it's not a break your bank work guide. So 2 thumbs up 👍👍!!
Just yesterday I was using a pneumatic cut-off wheel on metal. The wheel broke in half at full rpm and flung half the wheel right at my chest. I was wearing a t shirt and It broke the skin a little but no real injury to speak of. Now, I was wearing eye protection but can you imagine that piece hitting an unprotected eye?!?!?! Eye protection is cheap and easy. No legitimate reason to not wear it. Same goes for hearing protection. All the lawn mowing I did as a kid all summer long......no one ever thought about hearing protection. I have mild tinnitus and I really think it had to do with that. Hours upon hours of mowing with no hearing protection.
@@mindeloman Just had that happen to me a month ago. I did have protection on ,and the broken cut off wheel flew past my head close enough to feel it nic my ear.
Once I made similar crankcase vent system in my turbodiesel BMW. I even made it theoretically better by putting a double 45° pipe ~10cm inside the (freeflow) exhaust, so it should've work like a carburetor jet. No... It made an opposite effect. Exhaust gases were pushing towards the crankcase.
@@Velislide For a check valve to work the pressure on the crankcase side would have to be greater than the exhaust pressure to open up. I don't think the setup they showed would work. I don't know why a simple pcv with oil catch can routed back into the intake wouldnt be good enough, or even use a vacuum pump like I've seen some Pontiac motors setup.
You'd be surprised how much you can port and not see any gains whatsoever. Spend the $250 on a good valve job and bowl blend. That's where the power is.
Port, polish....FLOW BABY👍BEEN THERE, DONE THAT👍DIESEL....WORLD RECORD 2012 FASTEST DIESEL DRAGSTER. I BUILT THE HEAD, INJECTION LINES. OTHER ENGINE COMPONENTS. YES I DID💪. HYPER. BOYS. 🎉
50 years ago I wanted to get into porting but all I had was a file and a brain and maybe some measuring tools which wasn't much and I tried to Port a lawn mower engine then back in the early eighties I started doing machine work at home and I started porting heads in the 80s it takes several hours to do heads you can't do it in 2 hours or 4 hours it basically takes about three days to do it right to totally port a set of heads right all the ports and maybe do flowing takes 40 hours if you were doing it right
Exactly what I did with my 461'sexcept I went a bit per David David vizzard 's recommendations with a little smokey yunick tech. 5 angle seats and pockets . 1.6 exhaust and hardened seats for the new gas that was on it's way in 1991.
I use one of the worst worn valves and drill thread holes close on the O. D. Using a shop vac modified with a flow control port, and a clear plastic cylinder, the threads will visually show where and how the flow looks around the valve circumference.
Great advice I have been doing this since 1973 Toyota Corolla 1600 2TC 8000 rpm . 1982 2.8 v6 carburetor a ton of porting 270 280 cam roller tip rockers radar got my Turkish friend at 196 mph. 5.0 Florida mustang state trooper gave him ticket 385.00 with speed 162.5 mph. Some 20 years ago. Cost of parts 350. USD
You have the big engine. Back then my 77 Corolla had the 1100. I've had 14 Toyotas since 1975 Still have the 75 ST Celica (43,000mi), 76 GT Celica (over 700,000mi) now has an LS. And a 80 long bed Hilux 4x4 (over 450,000) it's on its third engine. 22R Stroker , 40 over, with LCE stage 2 head.
You all should do a dyno on a stock motor with out port and polish compared to having heads and or intake ported and polished after and see what the real difference is with air flow and hp
I was hoping they were going to do that! I've looked everywhere don't want to do it it's hard I'm not sure if wiengardener did it. If you find something send me a link!
This guy isn't going to give you good advise. Been watching him for years. This video talks about gasket matching. What about the intake or exhaust manifolds? The gasket doesn't determine porting, the manifold does. Good baseline though. And you want your exhaust ports smaller than the primary tubes. Don't fuck your heads up. just saying, This shit takes hundreds of hours to master. Notice that there aren't any before or after flow bench tests. Even though he has the resources.
He covered the intake manifold matching. But yeah, not exh manifold. He also didn't talk about how far to stay away from the valve seats. People need to watch the Eric Weingartner vid on what not to do...
I mean we are talking about dudes using scotchbrite pads on a grinder risking chewing up the surface. If you look when he is polishing the combustion chamber he does hit the head gasket mating surface. Not that it is that big of a deal but the little stuff goes a long way.
It's a half hour show. He smoothed the exhaust port, cleaned up any obvious casting flaws, and basically indexed the ports to the gasket. This will help most engines in most street applications. More than that requires a lot more engine info and some interesting physics.
Sure it was a half hour show. I don't know what that has to do with anything. It probably took them 10 hours to shoot it. Have you ever ported anything? I have. My point is that, this guy attracts an audience of wannabes by making shit look way more simple than it is. Making people confident that a half hour video is all you need to understand what you're doing and that it's just that easy. They are selling a show. not viable training by any means. I'd bet he trashed those heads in the process while acting like it's a leisurely afternoon activity.
So ik these are very common trash heads but my 350sbc has the 76cc cast iron heads and when I ported and polished them from intake,heads,to the headers. I gained about 13ccs of flow,haven't tested the HP I gained but it all adds up
dont forget to include the price of a new head and intake. because guarantee a first timer is going to screw them up. everyone thinks it's so easy, I've got news for you grinder control is the hardest part next is keeping straight lines followed by surface finish. oh and dont forget to put a surface in the budget, to get rid of the grinder gouge when the cutter jumps out of the port and skids across the deck
I absolutely LOVE this video, very detailed . The only thing i wish you would have listed the exact tools your using like what size compressor what dremel and all the tips and such
Before you port your heads, you should go to a junkyard and buy some non rebuildable cores. That way you can make every mistake possible before you even attempt to work on your own car. Years ago, I wondered why I don't see aluminum 4V cylinder heads don't get ported often. I went to a junkyard, and bought a 4G63 head that had a timing belt snap. The core was junk, so I was free to screw up if I wanted to. I found that there really wasn't that much to reshape. Often the most an amateur can do is sharpen up the area where the individual port splits into 2 valves. The other advantage of doing a P&P to stock heads is that you can have a numbers matching car, but have more horsepower anyway. In addition, there are many engines that do not have new castings. That burette is also great because you can see how consistent your porting is. Your porting will vary, plus some heads had less than great casting consistency to begin with. Next, use it on the combustion chambers to make sure they all match. It ensures the compression ratio is the same on all cylinders. Besides, those numbers could vary based on casting flaws as well. Early cylinder heads should have hard valve seats pressed in when rebuilding. Those heads were built with the assumption that leaded gasoline would protect valve seats. When you have turbos, crankcase ventilation becomes even more important. 17:11 Aren't those check valves the kind of thing you would find early old AIR pump smog engines?
From what I’ve seen before is that if the gasket opening is bigger than the port then you port it to match the larger size of the opening on the gasket. You could always make your own gasket if it’s too much trouble or try and buy a gasket kit with a variety to see what fits your application.
I do match the header port area to the cylinder port. You might need to add a little metal to the headers, mig welder works for this. If you don't have use of a welder just don't grind it thin. You could have to improvise on the bolts and get some with smaller heads.
Would this stuff also be applicable to German cars. I’ve got an 2013 Audi S8, I bought a ecu and tcu map, RS7 RS turbos and I’m getting a custom built exhaust.
An excellent educational video. I love engines and have some basic tools. I like mirror finish and to work sitting down is a triple home run for me. A great way to make some money P/T in engines shop. Thanks from Brookfield Ct.
What if your engine is mostly stock can you still use that pressure release kit that hooks to the headers? also to free up flow and a little hp you can polish the 2 edges on the end of the tulip part of the exhaust valves
From factory there is already a pressure release system installed. Hince smog pump, e.g.r, pcv valve. Alot of times there is the vent cap on top of the valve cover that runs back into the intake or there is just a hose running from the valve cover with a pcv on the opposite side of the motor or both a vent cap and a pcv. Sbm has the cap with pcv. Unless your running high compression or forced induction the basic factory set up does just fine. Hope this helps 👍
@@charlesfields7908 the stock pcv is junk. nobody wants oil in the intake but you still need a vacuum of somesort to help the pistons rings. i would rather send it directly to the exhaust with the pulses
I love me a good Port + Polish its great for engines that don't have much of an after market or CNC profiles available, also note they didn't say get head skimmed (always worth checking even intakes/exhaust)
It depends on your attention to detail and if you have some support by people who know more than you. I have a friend who is from a construction background decide in his 50's he wanted o build a GTO drag car and race it. Think he knew what he has doing? Hell no but he asked me to help him and advise him. Car is running quite nicely and he is having a blast. You know all those warnings that were even in this video about "don't do this or else bad shit happens"? Well any seasoned mechanic has a lot of them and thats because either we royally fucked up or witnessed someone else do so and never forget it. Benefit from that body of knowledge and thanks to the internet there are a lot of people out there in forums and such who are giving this knowledge away for nothing. Take advantage of it, and do your homework first but don't be afraid to try something new.
So at the end when he started talking about the press in studs. If the factory stud is strong enough, (no bending/breaking) couldn't you just tac weld the stud to the head?? Be a lot cheaper, way faster, and still solves the problem of stud pulling out.
Don't valve cover breathers do the same thing as the $40 kit for evacuating crankcase pressure? I would think so, and I also believe it would be cheaper and easier for a backyard mechanic to do.
Technically the factory breathers releave the crankcase pressure from the crank spinning. Pre 67? I believe didn't have breathers and would build excessive pressure on the passenger valve cover or excessive vacuum under the drivers side valve cover. One side would get sucked in or the other would get blown out. A friend of mine had a 64 El camino 327 and blew one about every trip from TN to Chicago and always kept an extra set in the car. Of course he kept it over 100 most of the way and no overdrive so no telling what rpms he was running😂😂
Believe me if you dont know what you're doing you can really mess up your heads or manifold, sometimes it's just better to let a pro grinder do your porting,
@@LightningFast240 -- Catch cans are supposed to have baffles and filters to stop the oil from dripping on the road. In the "golden" days of building and racing, valve covers just had vents and "drip tubes" that would lead the vapors and oil down under the car. If you look at pictures from the streets and highways of the 1960s, you'll see concrete with a black line up the center. Bikers used to call it the "oil strip".. Maybe I was a bit off by calling it an "EGR" when I should have said PCV... My apologies.
@@LightningFast240 -- well, 100% honesty, I've always just vented my valve covers to atmosphere.. (Used a catch can with a filter or sometimes just a filter.) Never believed in sucking dirty unfiltered air into the engine..
Port matching the exhaust is a no no. Unless your headers are a touch smaller than the gasket enlarging the port exit will promote reversion. As usual they don't tell you the whole story and put out information that will lead to equally half assed performance
In a mild street engine that rarely sees 4k rpm? The scavenging of the long tube headers will overcome it. Most likely the small overlap will close the exhaust valve before the cylinder gets choked up from reversion. With high revs and long overlaps it's an issue. This port work is mainly polishing and removing casting flaws. This isn't a comprehensive race ready job.
@@ahoneyman in that case what's the point in doing the intake side if it's a mild street motor? And if it's not gonna see 4k rpm I would just stay with the stock engine and have the extra 1000 rpm. The whole video is about getting more not building a turd
@@boharris8179 Polishing the exhaust ports does help throughout the RPM range. Polishing the combustion chamber and inspecting for casting flaws can help combat detonation. I mean, for an old school SBF build basic polishing of E7TE heads and an alphabet E303 cam is a happy combo. For a real street/strip build AFR 185 aluminum heads will crush ported stockers and save weight too. They are a slam dunk really.
@@ahoneyman did I say anything about polishing?? All the gains on the exhaust is from raising the roof, working the short turn and streamline the guide. A good chamber doesn't hurt either wth a nice valve job. Port match the exhaust on anything is just a waste of time at best and will kill upper rpm
@@boharris8179 port matching ensures the ports are square and evenly sized. This is arguably more important than the potential reversion issues on most street engines. Smooth and even scavenging is important at all RPMs. If you want to keep the port 15 thousanths smaller and use the boundary layer turbulence as an anti reversion device do it.
Agreed! Port/polish and serious head work is best left to the professionals who do it for a living. For serious aluminum removal you need a D Hog not those shitty-ass Home Depot burrs. I would bet money that not only the flow numbers did not improve but went backwards. Bowl area?! Cmon…..It’s not how much material you remove, it’s WHERE. There are many crappy exhaust runner designs out there, that we actually ADD material or filler to the floor…. This channel is a JOKE nothing but a huge commercial.
@@scottsmith5623 You mentioned D Hog do you happen to know of a good set to start with? Asking because I'd like to get my son a set, he is wanting to start practicing on porting and polishing heads. He has a few junk heads to practice on. He will be working with aluminum heads btw. Thanks!
They should have flow tested that dirty old head, then hot tanked them and flow tested them again and then flow test them after all the port and polish work. I thinking it would have added a great deal of information as to what to expect between "as cast and dirty", "as cast and cleaned", and then ported and polished flow numbers. Seeing the difference in the cfm flow would have been a great way to show (prove) the benefits of the work.
I totally agree brother
It would also be good to see what effect port matching the intake had on flow. Results are inconsistent from what I've seen and read. Some say it makes no difference. Some say they've seen losses after port matching.
Hell yeah brother!
I agree! I mean they sure did spend a lot of time advertising for Mr. Gasket and Matco, which is fine, but we want to see data!!
Yeah, was expecting before and after dynos... like when Steve Dulcich added 90 HP with porting in a David Freiberger video...
I have been reading Hotrod since 1962. Back then, this was the way things were done as machine work and labor was expensive. Anyone can spend cubic money to achieve these results, but the true hotrodder does what he can and saves money at the same time. Great video.
machine work is still expensive!! I am for sure going the DIY route
Yes and fun doing it.
The welding wire to measure is actually a good tip. Nice work.
50 years ago I put 5 hp Briggs and Stratton valves in a 3 hp Briggs and Stratton engine and milled the head on my dads sander in his woodshop, to hop up my mini bike, ended up kicking but on those Honda mini trails, years later I put Chevy Corvette valves in my ford 289 heads and ported it like this video, it turned my Mustang on big time.
Good ol days when people actually worked on their own cars
No you didnt
@@johnathonmounce2265 ya viper heads on my honda. Lol
Loved it, I appreciate the effort and time taken to discuss reasons why and what to do when it comes to P&P. Enough so, that I'd take a chance on giving it a go myself. Sometimes it's not about professional machining. Rather, the skills you gain from DIY'ing. I really enjoy your channel, keep it up guys.
Didn’t even know about this option. You really don’t know what you don’t know. Starting this week .
Used to watch these two guys on car TV channel and they are two of the best I've watched ,enjoy their work
I NEED TO GET MY HOME CLEAN AND ORGANIZED. SO, I MAY MOVE ON BIGGER AND BETTER PROJECTS.
I used to build racing 2 stroke engines and got to know porting very well. Never did a car engine but by looking at the set of heads on my dads 289 Ford sitting on the bench there’s some pretty rough casting on those things. He’s gonna have me smooth them up. I got all the tools, looks like I can get most or all of it with just a straight pencil grinder. Doing transfers on 2 stroke jugs you need 90 degree or at least 45 degree pencil grinders. I even have a smaller one you would typically see used at the dentist for chamfering edges and tight corners. Looks like fun, we have a flow bench at work in the engineering lab and I might see if I can slip the manager a $50 and bring the heads in on a Saturday for shits and giggles.
Hey Jen....if you could could you post some flow numbers?
Just curious.
@@gregallen9065 that would be interesting to see, especially if he could have the before numbers.
I worked in a foundry as a young man as a casting finisher. On our lunch hours we worked on a guys engine to port and polish it. We took it to the limits by polishing the rocker valley for oil return. We polished the entire block inside and out as well! Did the same for the intake manifold but it was aluminum. The best lubrication for working aluminum is beeswax. 1966
Everyone else notices that these shows are 85% commercial right?
Great tips for a beginner and fun to watch. I thought the porting advice was good, but I would have mentioned that more runner volume might give you more flow, but less power, depending on the head, so don't go nuts hogging it out. Velocity matters. I also protect the seats with duct tape. Enjoyed the video!
Glad i found this video, ive got the heads off my sbc 350 and want to do exactly this. Thanks, guys, for a very descriptive video
I'm tearing down a Chevy 350 boat engine right now and I was just going to have the heads machined to go back on as-is but now I'm considering a port and polish just because- hell, why not?!
Whatever you do just remember marine engines have different specifications than automotive engines! Also most of the components on the engine are regulated by the USCG, Not to mention that using automotive grade parts is extremely dangerous, foolish and can cause some serious issues! When I rebuilt my marine engine I just did a little cleaning and port matching to my cylinder heads! I rebuilt my engine when I purchased my boat in 1995, It is a 1987 GM 4.3L with a two barrel carburetor! Now it is a 4.3L with a little head work, upgraded valve train,small cam, Rochester Quadra jet and headers! And now because of the increase in horsepower and torque I was able to change from a aluminum prop to a bigger stainless steel! If you can do the work yourself it is most definitely worth it! You may ask why install headers on a V6, Because about 21 years ago OMC stopped producing the 4.3L one piece manifolds and no one was producing 4.3L OMC 1 piece aftermarket manifolds yet! My boat was high and dry on the trailer for two years while OMC was giving me the runaround, Then someone told me about a company in Australia that makes direct replacement stainless steel headers for almost all of your marine engines! Those headers we’re worth every penny, They have been on my boat for about 15 years and still look like they were just installed! I live in New Jersey and my boat is docked in salt water all summer every summer and I use the boat every weekend! If you ever have to replace manifolds I suggest you check out this company, Hi-Tek Marine! They are much lighter, take up less room, lower engine compartment temperatures and you will notice horsepower gains and a decrease in fuel consumption! Not to mention you will never have to replace your risers or manifolds again! I have no affiliation with the company I am just a mechanic who was lucky enough to be raised by my grandparents who has a beach house with a boat, And when I come across a product that performs above and beyond expectations I like to pass on the information! Good luck
@@NeverEnoughPyro40 aq1q1qq
a 3 angle valve job wouldn't cost that much more
2 things top list, windage try in oil pan, seen many automotive engines put in boats oil splash kills them quick,have engine balanced a smooth engine is a great way for long-term trouble free performance ,found excellent info here also,also, another video is Head Bytes,,in tenn.older gentleman lot experience ,high volume oil pumps with added dump fittings on back valve covers to oil pan bigger better gets oil back to pump quicker, HV oil pumps can an will suck oil pan dry without
I used to watch this every Saturday
Awesome tutorial. You guys explained this so as anybody can follow along..... that's the sign of a great teacher right there so, Thank you guys.
"you don't have to worry about an old stud pulling out" can be taken 2 ways. 😀
Thats what she said 🤣🤣🤣🤣
unless you have stripped the threads.
Please elaborate as I am young and niave in the ways of the world.
Use plenty of lubricant
You want the exhaust ports to be slightly smaller than your header tubes, this helps at low rpms with sucking exhaust back in.
I'm gonna have this done on my DOHC Saturn heads too, but not gonna go past a stage one plus polished combustion chambers on my .20 over hyper piston build, just to increase velocity and to smooth the factor imperfections in the castings as far as the head goes, etc. Great Video!!
Good to see you guys on a great show. Thanks for keeping us on the know
I hand ported some cast iron heads on a 5 liter Aussie V8 fitted LT1 springs and stage 3 cam and its livened the engine up massively woke it right up ,pulled way better then stock i polished the backs of the valves to mirror finish
I wasn’t expecting the mL measurement of the chambers after porting and polish. Simple and useful.
I was expecting a flowbench test to measure the reduced airflow losses.
at a swapmeet i got a set of Dodge 340 X heads bear. ported and polished them myself, then had a friend that owns a head shop finish them. put them on my 360 that i put back in a 79 step-side. i could really feel the difference from med to high RPM rang. it really is worth the time to do it, if ur ;looking for something alil better than stock. going for HP. buy better aftermarket heads.
There is alot that goes into p&p head work etc. He said 10-12 hrs im thinkin i wish, for me its upwards of a week for boths heads but thats taking alot of caution and making sure my hands are steady and im propped good and taking my time doing a little at a time keeping close eye on what im doing with no interruptions.
Always great to take 2 weeks slowly that 2 days rush it then find out. Hope it's going great for you =)
The amount of time various by how extensive the porting is and how complex the job is.
This is incredibly American in the way its presented
I ported my X20XEV exhaust, but I made the intakes rougher, to mix the fuel / air better. The improvement was 40HP!!
Great video guys, very easy to follow, for me, as I do my own DIY work, it is very to the point . Thank you for your time. I will purchase your book as well. Again, it's not a break your bank work guide. So 2 thumbs up 👍👍!!
I see he learned his lesson when it comes to proper eye protection!
Just yesterday I was using a pneumatic cut-off wheel on metal. The wheel broke in half at full rpm and flung half the wheel right at my chest. I was wearing a t shirt and It broke the skin a little but no real injury to speak of. Now, I was wearing eye protection but can you imagine that piece hitting an unprotected eye?!?!?! Eye protection is cheap and easy. No legitimate reason to not wear it. Same goes for hearing protection. All the lawn mowing I did as a kid all summer long......no one ever thought about hearing protection. I have mild tinnitus and I really think it had to do with that. Hours upon hours of mowing with no hearing protection.
A dremel tool cutoff wheel can be really wild when it flies apart at full speed as well
@@mindeloman Just had that happen to me a month ago. I did have protection on ,and the broken cut off wheel flew past my head close enough to feel it nic my ear.
I was a pipe welder for the last 13yrs. I have seen quite a few 4" cutting disc stuck in people's faces! Face shield up!!
Nice one!! Some flow or even just dyno tests had been amazing
Once I made similar crankcase vent system in my turbodiesel BMW. I even made it theoretically better by putting a double 45° pipe ~10cm inside the (freeflow) exhaust, so it should've work like a carburetor jet. No... It made an opposite effect. Exhaust gases were pushing towards the crankcase.
Then you didn't have a check valve. They are one way.
@@Velislide yep I didn't, but there none in carburetors too. It simply wasn't doing the job.
I don't think you understand how positive pressure works.@@TransAmDrifter
@@Velislide yep, there's no positive pressure in a carburetor channel.
@@Velislide For a check valve to work the pressure on the crankcase side would have to be greater than the exhaust pressure to open up. I don't think the setup they showed would work. I don't know why a simple pcv with oil catch can routed back into the intake wouldnt be good enough, or even use a vacuum pump like I've seen some Pontiac motors setup.
You'd be surprised how much you can port and not see any gains whatsoever. Spend the $250 on a good valve job and bowl blend. That's where the power is.
Port, polish....FLOW BABY👍BEEN THERE, DONE THAT👍DIESEL....WORLD RECORD 2012 FASTEST DIESEL DRAGSTER. I BUILT THE HEAD, INJECTION LINES. OTHER ENGINE COMPONENTS. YES I DID💪. HYPER. BOYS. 🎉
50 years ago I wanted to get into porting but all I had was a file and a brain and maybe some measuring tools which wasn't much and I tried to Port a lawn mower engine then back in the early eighties I started doing machine work at home and I started porting heads in the 80s it takes several hours to do heads you can't do it in 2 hours or 4 hours it basically takes about three days to do it right to totally port a set of heads right all the ports and maybe do flowing takes 40 hours if you were doing it right
Exactly what I did with my 461'sexcept I went a bit per David David vizzard 's recommendations with a little smokey yunick tech. 5 angle seats and pockets . 1.6 exhaust and hardened seats for the new gas that was on it's way in 1991.
As always totally awesome content sure miss you guys on TV! Big fan love you guys!
I feel like I'm a kid again watching gears, 4x4, muscle car mornings good ol days
Running to pick and pull to get me some heads tomorrow
I use one of the worst worn valves and drill thread holes close on the O. D. Using a shop vac modified with a flow control port, and a clear plastic cylinder, the threads will visually show where and how the flow looks around the valve circumference.
I OLD SCHOOL THINKING. IT SAVES ME TIME AND MONEY!!!!
I like how he tells you what kind of “fun stuff” you can spend your money on! 😂
Some of those pads have aluminum oxide in them and will wipe out your bearings. Keep it clean.
The most important tool is a very expensive air compressor. That die grinder will empty tanks in a hurry.
Great advice I have been doing this since 1973 Toyota Corolla 1600 2TC 8000 rpm . 1982 2.8 v6 carburetor a ton of porting 270 280 cam roller tip rockers radar got my Turkish friend at 196 mph. 5.0 Florida mustang state trooper gave him ticket 385.00 with speed 162.5 mph. Some 20 years ago. Cost of parts 350. USD
You have the big engine. Back then my 77 Corolla had the 1100.
I've had 14 Toyotas since 1975
Still have the 75 ST Celica (43,000mi), 76 GT Celica (over 700,000mi) now has an LS. And a 80 long bed Hilux 4x4 (over 450,000) it's on its third engine. 22R Stroker , 40 over, with LCE stage 2 head.
I am a rue believer in PPE, and this video actually got me excited about sponsored eye protection. The head stuff was cool too, I guess.
I got a 307 for free, can’t mess up a boat anchor so let’s give it a shot!
Anyone seen these guys with their fingers dirty, no chance welcome to the real world of DIY mechanics
The cross sectional area of a port is far more important than cc volume. CC volume is almost completely irrelevant.
Hey, Hey… Don’t confuse these guys
Velocity counts aswell
Actually the oil build up in the cylinders HELPS the porting bit port faster as it actually prevents the bit from clogging abd over heating...
You all should do a dyno on a stock motor with out port and polish compared to having heads and or intake ported and polished after and see what the real difference is with air flow and hp
I was hoping they were going to do that! I've looked everywhere don't want to do it it's hard I'm not sure if wiengardener did it. If you find something send me a link!
This guy isn't going to give you good advise. Been watching him for years. This video talks about gasket matching. What about the intake or exhaust manifolds? The gasket doesn't determine porting, the manifold does. Good baseline though. And you want your exhaust ports smaller than the primary tubes. Don't fuck your heads up. just saying, This shit takes hundreds of hours to master. Notice that there aren't any before or after flow bench tests. Even though he has the resources.
He covered the intake manifold matching. But yeah, not exh manifold. He also didn't talk about how far to stay away from the valve seats. People need to watch the Eric Weingartner vid on what not to do...
Nailed it. I always wonder how much time and money these guys have cost their viewers over the years of crap tech advice.
I mean we are talking about dudes using scotchbrite pads on a grinder risking chewing up the surface. If you look when he is polishing the combustion chamber he does hit the head gasket mating surface. Not that it is that big of a deal but the little stuff goes a long way.
It's a half hour show. He smoothed the exhaust port, cleaned up any obvious casting flaws, and basically indexed the ports to the gasket. This will help most engines in most street applications. More than that requires a lot more engine info and some interesting physics.
Sure it was a half hour show. I don't know what that has to do with anything. It probably took them 10 hours to shoot it. Have you ever ported anything? I have. My point is that, this guy attracts an audience of wannabes by making shit look way more simple than it is. Making people confident that a half hour video is all you need to understand what you're doing and that it's just that easy. They are selling a show. not viable training by any means. I'd bet he trashed those heads in the process while acting like it's a leisurely afternoon activity.
This is a great video. Thanks so much for making and posting.
My hubby turns his burrs into a piece of ivory bar soap,its less messy than WD 40 . And keeps aluminum from sticking to the burrs !
So ik these are very common trash heads but my 350sbc has the 76cc cast iron heads and when I ported and polished them from intake,heads,to the headers. I gained about 13ccs of flow,haven't tested the HP I gained but it all adds up
At 7:58, the presenter touches the valve seat with the grinder, which he just warned you not to do.
Best port and polish video I've seen yet! You guys are amazing!
Yeah you just keep telling my competition to make their ports bigger
“It takes grindin’ to be a king, it takes grindin’ to be a king” - who’s Mike Jones?
Muito obrigado pelos seus vídeos. Um sonho poder trabalhar com isto.!!! VALEU.!!!!
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!! A TOTALLY AWSOME EDUCATION!!!!
That's what I call daytime TV!
Awsome segments guy's, 💪 pls tell me, Is their any way of balenceing the rods to the crank at home. Mike
Oh my I have been a technician for over 17 years and I would never put the face of a head down on a metal grate
dont forget to include the price of a new head and intake. because guarantee a first timer is going to screw them up. everyone thinks it's so easy, I've got news for you grinder control is the hardest part next is keeping straight lines followed by surface finish.
oh and dont forget to put a surface in the budget, to get rid of the grinder gouge when the cutter jumps out of the port and skids across the deck
Or just find junk heads and practice.
I absolutely LOVE this video, very detailed . The only thing i wish you would have listed the exact tools your using like what size compressor what dremel and all the tips and such
Cool video and thanks for all of these great tips! One question please, where did Mike say he got those safety glasses again?? Thanks in advance!!
Before you port your heads, you should go to a junkyard and buy some non rebuildable cores. That way you can make every mistake possible before you even attempt to work on your own car.
Years ago, I wondered why I don't see aluminum 4V cylinder heads don't get ported often. I went to a junkyard, and bought a 4G63 head that had a timing belt snap. The core was junk, so I was free to screw up if I wanted to. I found that there really wasn't that much to reshape. Often the most an amateur can do is sharpen up the area where the individual port splits into 2 valves.
The other advantage of doing a P&P to stock heads is that you can have a numbers matching car, but have more horsepower anyway. In addition, there are many engines that do not have new castings.
That burette is also great because you can see how consistent your porting is. Your porting will vary, plus some heads had less than great casting consistency to begin with. Next, use it on the combustion chambers to make sure they all match. It ensures the compression ratio is the same on all cylinders. Besides, those numbers could vary based on casting flaws as well.
Early cylinder heads should have hard valve seats pressed in when rebuilding. Those heads were built with the assumption that leaded gasoline would protect valve seats.
When you have turbos, crankcase ventilation becomes even more important.
17:11 Aren't those check valves the kind of thing you would find early old AIR pump smog engines?
A parts list and link in the description would be helpful.
There may be a radis under the screw in stud that you must match in the head or it will rock.
A flow before and after would have been nice
I decent 3 angle valve job and re size of the throat's would make more power than any any of the mods shown here.
Great video.. i really enjoyed the tips
I would add a catch can in the line between the cover and exhaust.
routed to the intake. That setup looked like a whole can of worms
Great Information... Thanks for Sharing
Do you gasket match the header ports with the gasket?
If you’re using manifolds I have. If headers no, there’s not really enough meat there to do any grinding on.
From what I’ve seen before is that if the gasket opening is bigger than the port then you port it to match the larger size of the opening on the gasket. You could always make your own gasket if it’s too much trouble or try and buy a gasket kit with a variety to see what fits your application.
I do match the header port area to the cylinder port. You might need to add a little metal to the headers, mig welder works for this. If you don't have use of a welder just don't grind it thin. You could have to improvise on the bolts and get some with smaller heads.
😆😂
And also the intake manifold ports...
Excellent video fellows. Thank you.
Would this stuff also be applicable to German cars. I’ve got an 2013 Audi S8, I bought a ecu and tcu map, RS7 RS turbos and I’m getting a custom built exhaust.
An excellent educational video. I love engines and have some basic tools. I like mirror finish and to work sitting down is a triple home run for me. A great way to make some money P/T in engines shop. Thanks from Brookfield Ct.
Big block Chevy already have screwinstuds and guide plates
What if your engine is mostly stock can you still use that pressure release kit that hooks to the headers? also to free up flow and a little hp you can polish the 2 edges on the end of the tulip part of the exhaust valves
From factory there is already a pressure release system installed. Hince smog pump, e.g.r, pcv valve. Alot of times there is the vent cap on top of the valve cover that runs back into the intake or there is just a hose running from the valve cover with a pcv on the opposite side of the motor or both a vent cap and a pcv. Sbm has the cap with pcv. Unless your running high compression or forced induction the basic factory set up does just fine. Hope this helps 👍
@@charlesfields7908 the only part of what you said is that is the function of the pcv system.
@@charlesfields7908 the stock pcv is junk. nobody wants oil in the intake but you still need a vacuum of somesort to help the pistons rings. i would rather send it directly to the exhaust with the pulses
Very good work!💸
I would love to go to school for this
I love me a good Port + Polish its great for engines that don't have much of an after market or CNC profiles available, also note they didn't say get head skimmed (always worth checking even intakes/exhaust)
Skimmed??? You mean decked???
Wooooo si quieres más caballos pará tu motor estos amigos son los indicados 💪😎🍺
How come every time I watch one of these I feel like I would just end up with a bunch of scrap metal
It depends on your attention to detail and if you have some support by people who know more than you. I have a friend who is from a construction background decide in his 50's he wanted o build a GTO drag car and race it. Think he knew what he has doing? Hell no but he asked me to help him and advise him. Car is running quite nicely and he is having a blast. You know all those warnings that were even in this video about "don't do this or else bad shit happens"? Well any seasoned mechanic has a lot of them and thats because either we royally fucked up or witnessed someone else do so and never forget it. Benefit from that body of knowledge and thanks to the internet there are a lot of people out there in forums and such who are giving this knowledge away for nothing. Take advantage of it, and do your homework first but don't be afraid to try something new.
@@nickwarner8158 I was insulting their intelligence not mine lmao
Should I have to upgrade camshaft after porting head?
have you used the milwaukee m12 die grinders .. ? they seem really good ..
One of the best videos on P&P I've ever seen. 👏
I love this show. These guys know their S%&t!!!
Can you guys do my SUbaru?
So at the end when he started talking about the press in studs. If the factory stud is strong enough, (no bending/breaking) couldn't you just tac weld the stud to the head?? Be a lot cheaper, way faster, and still solves the problem of stud pulling out.
Studs are steel and head is iron. When welding these different types of metals welding is highly prone to cracking
Another method is pinning them
Great video
Don't valve cover breathers do the same thing as the $40 kit for evacuating crankcase pressure? I would think so, and I also believe it would be cheaper and easier for a backyard mechanic to do.
Technically the factory breathers releave the crankcase pressure from the crank spinning. Pre 67? I believe didn't have breathers and would build excessive pressure on the passenger valve cover or excessive vacuum under the drivers side valve cover. One side would get sucked in or the other would get blown out. A friend of mine had a 64 El camino 327 and blew one about every trip from TN to Chicago and always kept an extra set in the car. Of course he kept it over 100 most of the way and no overdrive so no telling what rpms he was running😂😂
After your done spray WD 40 down the port and see if it comes out under the valve seat if it does that's not good
Believe me if you dont know what you're doing you can really mess up your heads or manifold, sometimes it's just better to let a pro grinder do your porting,
Would an evac system be okay to do on a daily driver engine?
this is a very good channel !!!
Anyone know who sells the safety glasses he’s wearing?
Installed an EGR to the exhaust ONCE.. Never again.. Dammed thing sucked the oil out of the motor. Better to leave it vented to a catch can set up.
-_- so then how are we suppose to get a vacuum source without shit spilling into the intake?
@@LightningFast240 -- Catch cans are supposed to have baffles and filters to stop the oil from dripping on the road. In the "golden" days of building and racing, valve covers just had vents and "drip tubes" that would lead the vapors and oil down under the car. If you look at pictures from the streets and highways of the 1960s, you'll see concrete with a black line up the center. Bikers used to call it the "oil strip".. Maybe I was a bit off by calling it an "EGR" when I should have said PCV... My apologies.
@@davidr1050 that's the thing. Even having a baffled can oil will still pass through into the intake tract. I'm trying to prevent that completely
@@LightningFast240 -- well, 100% honesty, I've always just vented my valve covers to atmosphere.. (Used a catch can with a filter or sometimes just a filter.) Never believed in sucking dirty unfiltered air into the engine..
Port matching the exhaust is a no no. Unless your headers are a touch smaller than the gasket enlarging the port exit will promote reversion. As usual they don't tell you the whole story and put out information that will lead to equally half assed performance
In a mild street engine that rarely sees 4k rpm? The scavenging of the long tube headers will overcome it. Most likely the small overlap will close the exhaust valve before the cylinder gets choked up from reversion. With high revs and long overlaps it's an issue. This port work is mainly polishing and removing casting flaws. This isn't a comprehensive race ready job.
@@ahoneyman in that case what's the point in doing the intake side if it's a mild street motor? And if it's not gonna see 4k rpm I would just stay with the stock engine and have the extra 1000 rpm. The whole video is about getting more not building a turd
@@boharris8179 Polishing the exhaust ports does help throughout the RPM range. Polishing the combustion chamber and inspecting for casting flaws can help combat detonation. I mean, for an old school SBF build basic polishing of E7TE heads and an alphabet E303 cam is a happy combo. For a real street/strip build AFR 185 aluminum heads will crush ported stockers and save weight too. They are a slam dunk really.
@@ahoneyman did I say anything about polishing?? All the gains on the exhaust is from raising the roof, working the short turn and streamline the guide. A good chamber doesn't hurt either wth a nice valve job. Port match the exhaust on anything is just a waste of time at best and will kill upper rpm
@@boharris8179 port matching ensures the ports are square and evenly sized. This is arguably more important than the potential reversion issues on most street engines. Smooth and even scavenging is important at all RPMs. If you want to keep the port 15 thousanths smaller and use the boundary layer turbulence as an anti reversion device do it.
About the worst porting work I ever seen. Y'all didn't even blend the valve seat area of the bowl. That is the most productive area to work.
and the easiest area to totally screw up the flow
Agreed! Port/polish and serious head work is best left to the professionals who do it for a living. For serious aluminum removal you need a D Hog not those shitty-ass Home Depot burrs. I would bet money that not only the flow numbers did not improve but went backwards. Bowl area?! Cmon…..It’s not how much material you remove, it’s WHERE. There are many crappy exhaust runner designs out there, that we actually ADD material or filler to the floor…. This channel is a JOKE nothing but a huge commercial.
@@scottsmith5623 You mentioned D Hog do you happen to know of a good set to start with? Asking because I'd like to get my son a set, he is wanting to start practicing on porting and polishing heads. He has a few junk heads to practice on. He will be working with aluminum heads btw. Thanks!