Reshaping a 4G63 combustion chamber how-to!
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- In this vid Dave shows you how to reshape a 4G63 combustion chamber and shows many tips and tricks that work on any head! This is the same chamber design that has set world records and powered some of the fastest 4G cars since 2001!
Tools used in this video
Electric Makita grinder -www.homedepot....
Electric speed controller - goodson.com/pr....
Cleco air grinder -www.grainger.c....
Burrs -
1/2 HeadGames super spiral - headgamesmotor....
3/8 HeadGames blendy - headgamesmotor....
1/4 HeadGames debur burr - headgamesmotor....
60 grit cartridge rolls - www.mscdirect.....
120 grit cartridge rolls
www.mscdirect.....
Scotch bright pads - www.mscdirect.....
round rod - www.homedepot.....
great vid - love the 4g63 - was surprised how bad the OE casting was with the sharp edges etc
I've never had the guts to tackle a cylinder head, but I've always gotten so much enjoyment from porting manifolds, O2 housings, etc. I don't know why, but it's almost meditative. You just zone in. I appreciate all the insight and the education on the 4G head, Dave!
I couldn’t get into porting steel. Lol but happy to hear you find your zen porting something and get a little better from vids like this!
Hi that was exactly the same as the last port and polish I did, Except I just had to go round with fine scotchbrite with solvo autosol on it. Best Wishes Dee
Great sanding tool ideas that I’ve never seen. Just found your channel and have only seen a couple videos but man…I’ve learned a ton. I’m from the dirtbike world and haven’t seen anyone else use some of these techniques. Good stuff! 👍
Thanks Collin!
Cómo haces después para recuperar la relación de compresión que de acuerdo al material quitado está en 8 a 1
Thanks for putting all this info out. I have always wondered about the factory machining in the combustion chamber. You answered a lot of questions here.
Happy you got something out of it!
Wow, excellent watch, thank you so much. It makes me miss when I was porting my 8v head for my redblock, such a fun process to learn. Can’t wait for the next project to build further on it 🙏
Id love to see you guy work your magic on a 1999-2005 mazda miata head, they flow quite poorly from factory
Wouldn't doing this to an engine decrease the compression ratio? Since you're creating more space in the combustion chamber?
@@3mpty5kull nope, we don’t remove a lot. So, when it is milled .005 it brings the compression right back to oem
Liked and subscribed- you do awesome work amd show technique in great detail. 👍
thanks and welcome to the show!
Looks like a Yamaha FJ1200 chamber. You ever use cross buffs?
We do on cam journals. I would not want a combustion chamber that shiny
What’s your take on Cnc porting combustion chamber areas ?
We have a cnc program for them. Sometimes they come out the same on every hole, and sometimes not so much lol
That chamber job is part of your 4G-1 full porting service correct?
That is correct. But it’s the cnc version of it
Great video!! 👍👌 How much does your 4g63 DSM head flow (CFM) with +1mm valves and your 1200whp specs?
sorry my man, we don't share flow numbers.
If you tell him your goals, he will give you the best option for your application.
It's great to see there are people who actually know what to do. I port two valve heads, both factory iron/ally and aftermarket. The call is becoming greater for the multivalve and it looks like a completely different world. Same general idea, but working the throat to bowl percentage out is something i need to develop. I've subscribed and thumbs up for your excellent content. Now looking to purchase some helix burrs.
I came from doing nitrous BBC heads. Most of the same principles apply except there is airflow to be found on the floor and not just the roof. Thanks for watching!
Nice work!
🇦🇬
Flow a stock 3SGTE; pocket port with stock guides w/reflow; full port and bronze guides port w/reflow for comparison; valve seat job as you see fit.
🙇🏾♂️
3SGTE head might find its way on the channel!
Thank you this is awesome, I am going to port tge head on my son's mini bike and I will try to use all the techniques you are teaching. I only have a small dremal but I am going to buy some single and double cut burrs for it. Thank you I am looking forward to completing you series on porting
So now you have major loss of compression 😂 uneven cylinder chambers an a few others....
@@ArthurFleck-tx9di love opinions from inexperienced people
@@headgames I mean I can see the benefits as well as the cons.. don't have to be an expert
Hey, It's a great vid.
I have question, are you measure volume of chamber before and after? How much it decrease compression ratio?
What is the benefit from porting/reshaping of combustion chamber?
You can add more timing which will bring EGT's down and it is less prone to detonation
CC 1JZ chamber plz and tnx? Your channel doesn’t get enough love!
I agree on the love, but hopefully that will come! Maybe next time a 1JZ comes through.
Do you cc the chambers once finished ?
Another awesome helpfully video!! Thanks
Ìf you take snips and cutsmall l v notches in that roloc it will naturall conform to the round
How much HP is only that chamber work worth ?
wish I knew the answer to that.
I would like to have seen how you make each combustion chamber exactly the same shape and size. It is always interesting to see how others figure out solutions to problems you don't know you have.
If the shape isn't there then the size won't be either. The OEM chambers are not all the exact same, this makes them the same.
with respect to a 4g63 head, what will you say is the most you would take off when re-facing the head as to not cause head gasket failure from warping from high boost applications
.040 without issues. 80psi proven.
@@headgamesis that in regards to a dsm head or an evo head?
Either one
@@headgames with the surface being decked up to .04in, do you need to do anything special to the valve seats to make sure it doesn't hit the piston or does the pistons usually already have enough clearance for that? I appreciate the insight!
Perfect
So great that you shared this; im curious do you guys finish it off with some polishing compound? I find it keeps the combustion bowl clean carbon wise and in theorie reflects the heat better a bit
that is hogwash in my opinion. We don't do anything more than what is shown. I think anything beyond that is just wasting time.
Hey thanks for some real good real world very helpful practical knowledge without BS and bad music. Re another comment about CC's, do you not bother at all ? Just not in this video ? Or is shape more important than size ? I'm wondering where you put equalling CC's on the importance scale ?
I will be looking for more of your videos, keep them up.
If the shape is not there, the CC won't be there either. It is a circle in essence so easily see when you are out. This was more of a tutorial on how to grind it, we would suggest CC before and after. Especially if you are not used to doing this kind of work.
Por flujo mejora la dinámica,pero el rendimiento baja por tener relación de compresión baja después de restarle material
Front exhaust on air die grinder is fantastic for keeping things 'clean' and being able to see what your doing.
I never used a regulator like that one, just put finger under the throttle control to limit speed (never even saw a small regulator back then except for spray guns)
Been using the 'split rod' in various diameters with reduced end since around 1978, it's handy for cleaning up any part with a small round bore and can be made whatever length you need (repairing rust seized motorcycle main stand pivots was very common back then)
I only just subscribed after watching the Lambo head video, you do some interesting stuff.
Have you done motorcycle heads? (Since retiring I miss this stuff more than I thought I would although porting was only a small part of 'playing with motorcycles' 😁
Everything being smaller makes things a little more challenging, cutting 6" shank burrs to 4" or 4.5" makes them a lot more controllable but with shorter ports a lot can often be done with regular 3".
Have you heard of or worked on Suzuki TSCC? (twin swirl combustion chamber)
It came out around 1979-80 and is still used today although it has evolved in the last 40+ years
Treats the 'halves' of a 4 valve head as two separate narrow combustion chambers with central spark plug, kinda similar to how you modified that chamber.
Thanks for subscribing! My grinder is to powerful for just holding it to the desired rpm because if you slip it’s bending the burr or especially anything that I’m sanding with.
I’ve never messed with any older bike heads and now we are so busy with the cars we cater to that we don’t work on bike heads at all. Just getting into side by sides and we have been doing ski-doo stuff for many years.
@@headgames Cool, thanks for reply.
I didn't think you did bike heads but the TSCC may be of interest if you get hold of one just to look at. ( I just like to learn stuff)
Suzuki used them on 'just about everything' after 1990.
Don't know anything about modern Ski-Doo, only ever played with the two stroke motors which were kinda interesting from an engineering view as they did things 'different'
Are they Rotax engines? I know a little about the 100cc V-twins as it was used by Aprillia.
Totally understand doing car heads only, getting more power from large capacity motorcycles is a very limited market when it's already possible to buy stock factory motorcycles with 200+ hp from 1300 cc (or even 300+ with Kawasaki turbo 1400)
It's awesome how easy you make this look. I've messed with a few heads in the past and it takes days when you're a beginner. About how many hours would you say it takes a pro to do a set of ports and chambers on a typical 4 cylinder head?
If I am not bothered I can do a head start to finish in 7-9 hours by hand
Good stuff!
Thanks 👍
I love these tutorials. Also convinced me that I don't want to tackle it. Do you know what happened to Trevor Johnson? I haven't seen his stuff for a long time.
🤣 it's easy! I am friends with him on Facebook but also haven't heard from him in at least a decade.
@@headgames I haven't talked to him in about twenty years. Tried to call his old shop recently but got a wrong number. Not sure if he went over to T1 as I think Watt moved closer there and those two did a lot of work together.
Super neat
Great tips and tricks, thank you!
glad you got something out of it!
How would you sharpen the super spiral burrs? Or do they ever even need to be sharpened?
the short one used in the vid is about 8 years old. For the price of shipping, and the price of sharpening probably be cheaper to replace it.
Great video way different than other video I seen great content
Thanks! Which video are you referring to?
Would have loved to see more of the finish work with the scotch brite. Great vid tho as always.
😎👍👍
Really enjoying the videos so far, I will be looking at doing some work to my toyota 4EFTE head soon.
Alot of people talk about de-shrouding the exhaust valves.
Could you explain this process and what to look out for when doing it?
Regards
Blake
Hey Blake! Thanks for the kind words and watching the channel! Man, I had to look that chamber up because we do not work on them. And I think your options are very limited on trying to enshroud the exhaust valve. In my opinion I would get your machinist a head gasket (can be used) and have him scribe it out (or you do this) so they can cut it with the valve job. If you start doing any kind of major reshaping be prepared to get a custom piston. Your honestly trying to shine a big turd in this situation, there's no good way to make it great with that exhaust valve buried in the chamber. I see minimal gains for a decent amount of effort.
@@headgames thankyou very much for taking the time to have a look and reply! I look forward to more videos in the future.
Hey Blake, I've built a head for a similar Toyota engine (same head casting I think) and got some good results. To be honest it's hard to de-shroud these at stock height. The key is to mill the cylinder head down (so that we have a lower shroud threshold) and then back cut the shrouded area of the chamber. The exhaust valves on these are too small but we can maximize by opening that area into an angle (being careful not to cut further than the radius of the bore). To compensate for the lowering of the head, you will have to get an adjustable cam pulley and re-time the cam. Good luck.
I'd love to see a complete RB head build 🤞
coming up!
Best head in town.
your alive!
Are the combustion chambers CC'D after porting?
if customer needs that info. Otherwise no
So you never checked to see if combustion chamber volume is the same after you finished ?
If it was cnc i wouldn't ask but hand port it can be off enough to matter id think?
well, first off this was a non technical vid and no where did we say we would be CC. And actually the cnc you would have to question it more because it only knows where the chamber is supposed to be. We find often the chamber won't clean up on some cylinders and completely cleans up on others on our cnc heads because of core shift. CNC only is faster, it's not better in that way. If the shape is different by hand, then the cc is different. If you have been doing this long enough you are not doing the chambers and then CC all of them. That is some amateur stuff that should be done.
@@headgames i should have put a question mark in my comment lol
It wasn't intended to be questioning you as much as asking a question
@@audirx8 ohhhh~ sorry if I came off aggressive. Thanks for watching and commenting. I hope I still answered the question!
These how-to series of videos are great.
I would love to see a video about how you would fix a head that has core shift causing a 1-1.5mm lip between the bottom of the valve seat and the runner like this: live.staticflickr.com/65535/52345824181_8b04183778_k.jpg
Do you enlarge the seat throat? Do you hand port only the affected area? Would love to know. Thanks!
Wes, you just leave it. You could get it out, but it often makes the throat too big. There's no good way to address it, and it 100% is not worth the effort. People think there is a ton of gain there but it's just not considering you would have to remove the seat, weld, install seats, blend. Thousands of dollars later and many hours and you have something that is only marginally better.
@@headgames Thank you! I've received a number of whacky suggestions and this is by far the most sensible. The math checks out. If I enlarged the throats 2-3mm on these Subaru heads, the throats would be way too large. Other than throat/valve percentage, is there a good guideline to know when the throats are too big?
@@wes7143 only other way you would know is the flow bench. I can tell you by experience that the Subaru is VERY sensitive to throat diameter. Probably the most sensitive of all the heads we work on. We can't even blend our valve job in without losing cfm. I would do stock size valves in that head too. Always.
Great content, I love my street port 4g63 head that was done by you guys a couple years back.
thanks !!