Thank you very much for taking the time to document your build this way. I just binge watched all of your videos as I am waiting for my factory five Daytona coupe kit to get here. I think you have probably saved me a lot of time and trouble.
Thanks for the nice note. I envy you waiting on your kit to arrive. I loved the whole build up to my kit showing up. My garage never looked so clean and organized. I miss the build being over truthfully. I'm loving driving my car (almost daily), but something about heading out into the garage at 4:30AM every Saturday morning because I was too excited to sleep-- just laying in bed waiting to work on it each night--- man, that was the best feeling! Enjoy the build!
I know the feeling for sure! I just spent the last year building a house for myself, and this project will be filling the hole in my life since that project is done.
Love all your build videos, fantastic effort. I had similar idle situation to you with idle. My engine is a Gen2 Coyote however I'm using the zHolley terminator, it uses the same base software as the Sniper. A couple of things that I did to solve it. Riches up idle mixture. Originally the stock setting was 14.1 however dropping it to 13.8 made a huge difference. Also play with D term and D term in your idle settings, probably increase the Dterm to say 65/70. If you want I can email a screenshot of my idlexsettings to give you a reference. One last thing is to transfer your learn table to the base fuel table, there is probable lots of adjusting going on so the more you transfer the better it will run. A great resource for you would be Joe Simpson, he has a bunch of Holley how to's that are very easy to follow. Enjoy the Cobra, looking forward to more videos. Pete
Thanks for the information!! This is exactly the type of info I’ve been looking for. I would love to see a screenshot of your settings. I am indeed going to give your recommendations a shot. I don’t really know if you can see my email address on my channel, so incase you can’t, here it is. Linnaaronmaine@gmail.Com Thanks!!
Comments on Drive shaft. I'm using a Mustang 2015 IRS, third member, since new I can rotate the drive shaft 5 or so degrees either way. I questioned this as you did however was told it was normal by FF5 which was also validated by many on the forums. So far no problems, just over 18,000 miles. There is a slight whine however that's always been there as well. I'm using Redline Fully Synthetic 75W90 Gear oil.
Thanks for the confirmation Peter. I’m starting to relax a bit with that noise in my dif. Your comment helps cement that. I think I’m just over sensitive because I’m still in that mode of listening to all the bumps, thumps and rattles…. Anticipating problems- cause, you know, I built this thing in my garage. :) I’m going to try a heavier dif fluid to see if that helps. I’ll report my findings.
I had a similar issue when I rebuilt my rear end. You should tighten your pinion nut. It should have 0 backlash. I took the nut off, added more locktight (blue) and torqued it back down until it had no play.
Oh yes, stone chips... they happen immediately unfortunately. Under advice of a painter, I was told to wait 4 months before applying any protective plastic coating, to give the paint plenty of time to cure. Well... after the second drive, I noticed a chip on the rear fender, and then a second the following day. So I decided to go ahead and apply the clear plastic coating to those areas (leading edge of the rear fenders "the hips of the car"). Since I've done that, no new rock chips-- they are definitely a must. I know that you're supposed to wait 4 months, but I just couldn't, not if I wanted to drive it. So I applied them 2 months after the paint job-- and so far so good, no issues. The nice thing about the plastic is that they are completely invisible. They are in place for my last driving video-- so there's the proof.
The other thing I add is to make sure you have good air flow in your paint booth, garage space... etc. You want to make sure that the air flows in only one direction so you can predict overspray-- it dictates the direction in which you paint the car. While I've never painted cars, I've sprayed lots of furniture and this was something I learned the hard way.
As far as the Holley Sniper system, they have a bad problem with the ECM picking up what I believe is called EMI (ELECTRO MAGNETIC INTERFERENCE) from the distributor and plug wires, some people have had success resolving this by putting shielded plug wires on the plugs, but sometimes you have put a filter on it to remove the EMI. But that can cause the issues you are describing.
Hey thanks for the heads up. I'm going to experiment with moving some wires around and seeing if there's any changes. I also have some EMI shielding fabric from another project that I can temporarily put in place to see if it changes anything.
It sounds good. To many of these are obnoxiously loud. your surging at idle could be because of those header bolts if it uses o2's, even if it doesn't unmetered air could be getting in or the more common vacuum leak at the intake manifold. I think the clunking with the diff is normal and unavoidable. there needs to be slack or things would break. On pre-2015 mustangs ford used a ridiculous 2 piece drive shaft that weighed 40lbs and had a carrier bearing in the middle to absorb all that Noise, vibration and harness. people quickly replaced it with a 1 piece aluminum driveshaft.
thanks for the note. I'm going to be checking the vacuum lines. I verified no leaks at the headers and the O2 sensor is also not leaking (all checked with soapy water)
1/4" play is hard to explain from just wear in the diff. Wear would be measured up to say 50 /1000ths " in a very old diff. You're talking about 5 times that amount. There might be that much slip in the bolts joining your diff to prop shaft, either the bolts or the holes or both. Could also be the splines on the transmission shaft. Could even be wear in the transmission. All these effects add up. But unless each part has done 200k miles, you really should measure each part in the change.
I’m going to try to get some video of it when I get the car up on stands. I wish I knew better how to diagnose and explain it. I do know that it’s not the bolts between the drive shaft and the input to the dif. It’s happening after that. The sound is definitely coming from the dif- that I can verify.
he's talking about turning the drive shaft 1/4 inch before the diff engages the axles. I think this is normal for most cars. i've never seen a rwd car that didn't have some play in the drive line.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you very much for taking the time to document your build this way. I just binge watched all of your videos as I am waiting for my factory five Daytona coupe kit to get here. I think you have probably saved me a lot of time and trouble.
Thanks for the nice note. I envy you waiting on your kit to arrive. I loved the whole build up to my kit showing up. My garage never looked so clean and organized. I miss the build being over truthfully. I'm loving driving my car (almost daily), but something about heading out into the garage at 4:30AM every Saturday morning because I was too excited to sleep-- just laying in bed waiting to work on it each night--- man, that was the best feeling!
Enjoy the build!
I know the feeling for sure! I just spent the last year building a house for myself, and this project will be filling the hole in my life since that project is done.
So good! Awesome work and enjoy every moment with her!!
thanks!
Love all your build videos, fantastic effort.
I had similar idle situation to you with idle. My engine is a Gen2 Coyote however I'm using the zHolley terminator, it uses the same base software as the Sniper. A couple of things that I did to solve it. Riches up idle mixture. Originally the stock setting was 14.1 however dropping it to 13.8 made a huge difference. Also play with D term and D term in your idle settings, probably increase the Dterm to say 65/70.
If you want I can email a screenshot of my idlexsettings to give you a reference.
One last thing is to transfer your learn table to the base fuel table, there is probable lots of adjusting going on so the more you transfer the better it will run.
A great resource for you would be Joe Simpson, he has a bunch of Holley how to's that are very easy to follow.
Enjoy the Cobra, looking forward to more videos.
Pete
Thanks for the information!! This is exactly the type of info I’ve been looking for. I would love to see a screenshot of your settings. I am indeed going to give your recommendations a shot. I don’t really know if you can see my email address on my channel, so incase you can’t, here it is.
Linnaaronmaine@gmail.Com
Thanks!!
Awesome work!
Nice
Thanks!
Comments on Drive shaft. I'm using a Mustang 2015 IRS, third member, since new I can rotate the drive shaft 5 or so degrees either way. I questioned this as you did however was told it was normal by FF5 which was also validated by many on the forums. So far no problems, just over 18,000 miles. There is a slight whine however that's always been there as well.
I'm using Redline Fully Synthetic 75W90 Gear oil.
Thanks for the confirmation Peter. I’m starting to relax a bit with that noise in my dif. Your comment helps cement that. I think I’m just over sensitive because I’m still in that mode of listening to all the bumps, thumps and rattles…. Anticipating problems- cause, you know, I built this thing in my garage. :)
I’m going to try a heavier dif fluid to see if that helps. I’ll report my findings.
Car sounds great, as for the EFI, after 1000 miles the system still learning I believe it will learn and tune for those hot days sooner or later
Thanks for the note! I didn’t realize it continued to learn this late in the game.
I had a similar issue when I rebuilt my rear end. You should tighten your pinion nut. It should have 0 backlash. I took the nut off, added more locktight (blue) and torqued it back down until it had no play.
Thanks!! I’ll give that a shot! I haven’t checked that as of yet.
Great vid. Any comments on the paint job? stone chips etc?
Oh yes, stone chips... they happen immediately unfortunately. Under advice of a painter, I was told to wait 4 months before applying any protective plastic coating, to give the paint plenty of time to cure. Well... after the second drive, I noticed a chip on the rear fender, and then a second the following day. So I decided to go ahead and apply the clear plastic coating to those areas (leading edge of the rear fenders "the hips of the car"). Since I've done that, no new rock chips-- they are definitely a must. I know that you're supposed to wait 4 months, but I just couldn't, not if I wanted to drive it. So I applied them 2 months after the paint job-- and so far so good, no issues. The nice thing about the plastic is that they are completely invisible. They are in place for my last driving video-- so there's the proof.
The other thing I add is to make sure you have good air flow in your paint booth, garage space... etc. You want to make sure that the air flows in only one direction so you can predict overspray-- it dictates the direction in which you paint the car. While I've never painted cars, I've sprayed lots of furniture and this was something I learned the hard way.
Thanks, I'll be sure to follow your advice. And great content, really enjoy watching
As far as the Holley Sniper system, they have a bad problem with the ECM picking up what I believe is called EMI (ELECTRO MAGNETIC INTERFERENCE) from the distributor and plug wires, some people have had success resolving this by putting shielded plug wires on the plugs, but sometimes you have put a filter on it to remove the EMI. But that can cause the issues you are describing.
Hey thanks for the heads up. I'm going to experiment with moving some wires around and seeing if there's any changes. I also have some EMI shielding fabric from another project that I can temporarily put in place to see if it changes anything.
It sounds good. To many of these are obnoxiously loud. your surging at idle could be because of those header bolts if it uses o2's, even if it doesn't unmetered air could be getting in or the more common vacuum leak at the intake manifold. I think the clunking with the diff is normal and unavoidable. there needs to be slack or things would break. On pre-2015 mustangs ford used a ridiculous 2 piece drive shaft that weighed 40lbs and had a carrier bearing in the middle to absorb all that Noise, vibration and harness. people quickly replaced it with a 1 piece aluminum driveshaft.
thanks for the note. I'm going to be checking the vacuum lines. I verified no leaks at the headers and the O2 sensor is also not leaking (all checked with soapy water)
What spring rate do you have and do you like them Great job
I have the 300 hundred and 500#. They are the stock recommendation from FFR. They seem to be perfect as far as I can tell.
1/4" play is hard to explain from just wear in the diff. Wear would be measured up to say 50 /1000ths " in a very old diff. You're talking about 5 times that amount. There might be that much slip in the bolts joining your diff to prop shaft, either the bolts or the holes or both. Could also be the splines on the transmission shaft. Could even be wear in the transmission. All these effects add up. But unless each part has done 200k miles, you really should measure each part in the change.
I’m going to try to get some video of it when I get the car up on stands. I wish I knew better how to diagnose and explain it. I do know that it’s not the bolts between the drive shaft and the input to the dif. It’s happening after that. The sound is definitely coming from the dif- that I can verify.
he's talking about turning the drive shaft 1/4 inch before the diff engages the axles. I think this is normal for most cars. i've never seen a rwd car that didn't have some play in the drive line.
check your vacuum lines
Its next on my list! Thanks!
Maybe it's diff-ective! 🥁
Ok, THAT made me laugh... Thanks!