No water will enter the boat from below. When the boat is moving a suction is created and helps evacuate the excess water. At anchor, water will only enter the tubes up to the waterline
Yeah solid cockpit fiberglass drain tubes have been used for decades in lots of sailboats. As well as regular cockpit drains using hoses. They are going to be more reliable than flexible hoses. A vertical drain pipe will evacuate water much faster than ones that slowly slope aft to the transom. As somebody who has had a big wave land in their cockpit, you want it to drain fast and not leak into the rest of the boat. Basically I am not worried. For those worried about how strong they are - watch this video of somebody hammering at a carbon bike frame (likely a bit thinner) ua-cam.com/users/shortsxFChJVvrLlE and tell me what's going to do that inside your boat.
Flex in the deck, flex in the hull. The carbon tubes are asked to perform like a bulkhead--I think you may eventually run into fatigue failure. Through-hull failures below the waterline account for about half of sinkings. This may be a tried and proven method, but it makes me nervous. On another note, thanks for sharing your journey--I'm inspired and impressed by your attention to detail, raw determination, and eye for design.
I was following you a while back and you had no more videos im back now you got a few well done and again congratulations on the baby good luck with the yacht and amazing work
more of that wonderful voice over with insight into the life of a small family of boat builders! 3 years is a great relief. With Tally Ho splashed I don't want to be out of high quality boat building content too soon.
"It'll be done when it's done" - Amen. I found this part very relatable. I said "two years" when we bought the boat. That's what I say whenever anyone asks how long our build will take, and that's what I will keep saying until the second the keel hits the water... Loving the progress. Cheers!
Wow... those are some direct drains... Being in the aft section you'll hopefully have a suction there while moving through the water (created by stern rocker), but gotta say it's a little odd to me that you'd run those through the hull rather than down some hoses and out the transom. It also seems cool, but odd to then make those drains something you'll stand on. I'm guessing you'll beef them up a bit so there's no chance of a crack or breakage below the waterline. Great job on the gutters and hinges and hatch cover! Those look beautiful!
I would have also drilled the holes in the gutter 45 degrees backwards, and then attached to a drain pipe out from transom .. but we know matt, he loves revisiting a project :)
ive been on a boat where the drains ran out the stern... they where glassed in but had cracked even though above waterline following sea allowed quite a lot of water in. finding this out ~400nm from land was concerning but fixable as it was above waterline.... not sure old mate here will have the same luck if these crack and leak
I love that you talk about loving the process of building the boat AND sailing. Also, the realities of how money from things like the videos impact the timeframe. Very authentic points to make.
I'm sure there are alot of people watching this channel that knows boatwork that would like to come and help you build it! You could have them stay with you for a week, and have them rolling in weekly. Maybe cut that time frame down a year. Would be cool to see this boat being built by subscribers that are part of this community!
As an generational guy who has embraced epoxy, it is really nice to see the craftsmanship component of modern boat building and restoration. So glad to see Matt’s level of expectation. It is difficult to resist the Admiral/wife’s idea of when this should be done, but resist it must!
I'm not a shipwright. I've watch lots of shipwright channels and read quite a few books on it. I've done plenty of glasswork & modifications on boats of all sizes but Matt is something else entirely. Astounding skill and vision; an artist of the highest caliber.
Looks like an unneccessay leak opportunity as well. Over the lenght the ship can tork.... that looks like just to little adhesive surface to me. But hey... only my instinct is telling me so.
This is episode 136 and it's the first time I thought, you don't want to to that. Seacocks are a nifty thing to have on your boat and those holes are creating more problems than they solve. Plenty of time to revisit it and it's additional drama and content. :)
I am certainly no expert but putting those pipes in like that really surprised me. I know they are carbon fibre but they look awful thin? Sure Matt know what he is doing and I am sure some expert would advise against it if it was not safe.
I had a boat with a cockpit that drained using that sort of vertical drop system - it had seacocks and the tubing connecting it was flexible. Imagine a loose engine or gear after a knockdown vs those rigid tubes.
Looks like they might be a problem to me. I would have taken them aft to the transom above the waterline with a scupper. Seems like they might be a source of some noise (gurgling) when the water is flowing by underway, besides having 2 thru-hulls with no means of closing except a driven in wooden plug if they get damaged.
4:30 Of course you want to go sailing, but, keep in mind you have just built a beautiful sailing dinghy, that can fix that need any time you want from April to September!
Hey guys, everything looks so easy with Matt, the precision is unbelievable, everything just seems to just fit together booom. The only thing I guess I found slightly concerning were the holes in the boat, I get the drainage part but instead of two holes could there have been just one and integrate both drainage pipes together as one. Anyhow not for me to say, I'm not a boat builder, I think everything you do is amazing. Anyhow, great to see the little guy making an appearance😊 Sending good energy your way....Neil😊😊☘☘
Love your cockpit hatch and the way you did the drains! Great to be able to eliminate hoses, clamps and valves. The ladder is a great idea which really strengthens the drain pipes
Your hinges are most excellent and my first thought was that you should make a bunch extra for just in case, the second thought was that you should make a bunch extra for sale to both the general public and boat yards. People would buy them fer sher. Get Mom assembly lining those hinges!
amazing. quick question - if you slam or dive the stern in bad weather is there any risk of the aft hull slamming causing water to shoot up the drains under pressure?
Nice video as usual. Usually I don't comment as I see a thorough job. I'm an engineer by profession and I see a very solid build mechanically. In this video however, i see a somewhat bothersome point. I didn't see any reinforcement of the cockpit sole hatch hole sharp corners to prevent crack propagation. Couple of layers of fibreglass in each corner would definitely prevent this. Also the water drain system for this new hatch is '2 steps forward and 1 step back' solution. It's not a good solution in my opinion. There may be many failure modes for this solution. It's better you rethink to improve this solution. I also have couple more video suggestions: 1. Test the strength of the stanchion studs for a person tipping on it. 2. Test the strength of the carbon fibre hinges for a person stepping on it few thousand times. I know these are slightly tangential to the goal of building the boat. But I have been wondering about these things for a while.
Hello from Fort Wayne, IN. I enjoy watching your UA-cam videos. When you mentioned the date of when you think you want to sail your boat it reminded me of the other UA-cam channels SV Seeker, Sailing Uma, or Sampson Boat Co, they all ether build their boat from the ground up or restored it, while documenting their processes on UA-cam. They all learned not to report to their viewers when it's going to be done. It takes time if you want it do right and with mistakes. They also found out by not letting anyone know the finish date it was a lot less stress on them to finish their boat. Please take your time and be healthy with less stress.
@@matthewmelchi6151 Il y en à d'autres dont un constructeur amateur suédois aussi étonnant que méticuleux qui vaut le détour www.youtube.com/@RANSailing/videos
Dan and Kika are absolute speed demons compared to these guys, but I think they also have Uma and related stuff as their main income whereas the Duracell project is basically "whenever we can do it between the day jobs and the baby."
Its a lovely idea - a ladder with hidden drain pipes. Its great when it possible to add interesting features. Tally Ho timescales . . . finishing the boat will take another two years
Matt - Awesome job on the hatch! please keep in mind that the tubes should be analyzed as part of the hull structure and are exposed to the same stresses and pressures as the hull. So they should have the same strength as the foam core hull - I hope you strengthen them up so that they are, and keep in mind the tension/compression/shear from the deck flex compared to hull. (also one minor comment, you may hear the slurping/suction noise from those drains while sailing which could be annoying.) Please put a lot of thought into these tubes as they are currently the weakest link under the waterline. Really enjoying your build, amazing work!
Love your work and have taken heaps of learnings from this series. One thing with this hatch drain , it could act like a small whistle as water rises up and down the pipes and into sealed up area at hatch ... might push air past seal the cause noise , may also end up drawing water into to hatch drain and up into the boat as seal on hatch may act as a one way valve .... finger over the straw stuff . Hope that makes sense . Could test by applying say twice atmospheric pressure to area Spence hatch seal installed.
I truly like your hatch. When I was young, I apprenticed in New England as a shipwright. In many cases we had to cut out the pilot house floor to remove an engine. Yes we were also able to bring it out through the saloon, up and out. Your design, so nice.
Three years?!? Perfect! Rossco over at Life on the Hulls will be finishing soon and I was worried I’d no longer have any boat building vids to watch. I think back to my five year build and how enjoyable it was… looking forward to many more Duracell episodes to come👍
This is the first thing you have done that I have disagreed with. You just put two large holes in the hull to eliminate very occasional water. You have also restricted the area that the engine is going to sit in and any accessories that it may have maintenance may be limited by the two tubes that could have gone out to the sides of the hull above the water line. You now have two more hull holes that offer a major leak if they fail. Every sailor knows that the fewer hull penetrations the better. I just watched a video on a guy who bought a 70-foot boat and went to remove the generator water intake strainer and it was blocked by a big metal support addition in the engine room. Access to all sides of your engine is critical.
I appreciate the artistry and thought put into this project. Details like the flush mount hinges are gifts that keep on giving everything except a stubbed toe! cheers!
keeping the cockpit door open? recessed magnets that you then glass over to make them invisable... same for using to open the hatch so its nice and clean / flush. recess a magnet in the hatch and then make a tool with the magnet in the end to pull up :)
won't water sit in those drain tubes up to the water line? and if there are slamming waves, wont water come out of the top of the tubes when water pressure from the boat slamming down??
I was thinking this too. Will the water drain at all, if the drain hole is under the water line of the boat ? The pressure of the ocean water will push against the water coming from the drain. Or am I missing something completely?
Water finds its own level. But if the ship lists port or starboard to far it could allow water to come in on the lower side. I mean I'm sure him and the engineer behave discussed this in far greater detail than all of us viewers. And I'm just some guy who is YT certified doing my own thing so idk
Three years! I admire your patience! I built a fridge last season... then went sailing 😊 The background banter is great- gives the channel extra depth.
Great to be able to follow the Duracell Project. Re the drain pipes: have you considered crossing them? E.g., under heel to starboard, most of the starboard pipe will be filled with water, restricting outflow. Whatever, lots of success!
Matt - Not sure if you haven't created whistle tubes with those drain tubes. Water flowing by under the hull will want to pull air with it (this is similar to how you create moderate level vacuum in lab experiments) and this may create a constant whistling or whooshing noise when the boat is underway. Not sure if this isn't going to be a constant annoyance, but something to think about.
Don’t worry too much. When you go sailing you’ll still be working on the boat!. Your level of ingenuity and craftsmanship is mind bogglingly off the planet good. I’m happy to keep watching for the next three years.
It looks like a fair amount of people aren’t digging the drainage system. Another great vid. Looking forward to staying on board with you guys for the rest of this journey. Keeping the faith.
Great to see Adler, he has got a good head of hair already! In all my years ive never seen drains go straight out like that. I guess it should work. Hope the pressure under the hull doesnt force it up the pipes with the top being open to atmosphere. I cant imagine that you havnt thought of that and done your research. Maybe the passing water when underway will even act as suction and help. Those steps are very nice touch, great dual use. Hope they dont get in the way of later fit out. Good videography as usual. God bless you all from essex U.K. ❤
the details involved in getting a COMPLETE and well thought out FINISHED boat takes time energy and thought and planning takes TIME. Keep on Keepin ON !
Well, let me say that I’ve watched so much of Matt fiberglassing, I was able to totally repair the stupid cheap plastic shelving inside my refrigerator doors…thanks Matt!
“Two years” worked for Leo. Just keep saying that. For keeping the hatch open, suggest using a large spring on either the forward or aft side; one end attached to the hatch and the other to the side of the gutter. To close you bend the spring towards the hinge side. When open, the spring automatically extends and acts as a support. We had these on our HEAVY Cheoy Lee cockpit and lazerette hatches and they were the definition of function and simplicity.
One other thing that I noticed that I have run into on several boats is the ability to remove the hatch when doing major things on the engine. Say you want to place a board across the seats to lift something heavy out of the hole. The hatch needs to have pintle-type hinges to be removed easily.
Really enjoy your content! This is the first time I’ve worried. Here are my thoughts on your cockpit hatch drains: When heeled, neither pipe will drain optimally. The low side pipe will put the cockpit sole near the water line, potentially bring water IN (perhaps consider non-return valves at the gutter drains); and the high side pipe will drain slowly and only until the cockpit drain is high and dry (with water still potentially pooled on the low side). The “old school” solution to this problem is to cross the drains-the starboard cockpit drain exiting the hull on the port side, and visa versa. Another “old school” rule is to avoid rigid plumbing-especially plumbing connected to below-the-waterline thruhulls. Your carbon tubes connect the hull to the deck, and carbon has no elasticity at all. Flexing of your boat’s structure in a seaway may eventually result in cracking at the hull-to-tube or tube-to-deck joint (or both). Which is an example of why, as other commenters have pointed out, all below-the-waterline thruhulls should absolutely have seacocks. A more seamanlike solution would have been to have (1) used flexible hose for the drains to allow the hull and deck structures to flex without risking cracks below the water line, (2) installed proper seacocks at each drainpipe’s exit through the hull, and (3) crossed the drainpipes port-to-starboard and starboard-to-port so that you have drainage on either tack (even well heeled over) and no chance of shipping water through the low-side drain.
That's how we did it on our boats as well (crossed flexi hoses into seacocks). Hull flex onto glued carbon would make me very nervous of a crack below the waterline.
Haha! Matt says: "She's gonna sail when she's ready!" I like the fact that you guys are really appreciating and enjoying the process! I think it's a great way to love your life. Shout out to Yani, that always puts a great effort into editing this beautiful experience of yours! Cheers!
Your project is amazing and your glassing skills are mind-blowing! I have a concern about the drain tubes. As drains they are great, but carbon tubes are quite brittle and lateral impacts from equipment in the below-decks could easily fracture them. Also, they are attached to the most rigid part of the boat on one end and the deck, a horizontal diaphragm, with unpredictable live loads on the other - one end or the other will eventually work loose. A hose and hose clamps are ugly, but they can take a tremendouse amount of abuse without failing and the movement differential of the cockpit sole and the bilge will not matter with hoses.
It'll be done when it's done is the right attitude Matt! Last thing you want to do is rush it and half ass it. I mean this is an extremely ambitious project to take a boat designed for speed and totally retrofit it to be a cruising home, even with a team of ppl it can takes years. I know you're feeling antsy but don't rush it or worry about us, we're here for the long haul. 👍👍
Hi Matt, The boat is coming along nicely. I was not surprised that you put drain holes in the back. I would have run them to the back of the boat for over board. The other thing I would have hinged it forward this would give you more room for the engine you mentioned to be able to put in the lower compartment. You talked about a size of a hundred horse power engine giving you room even if you choose a eighty horsepower. With those drains in the pace you installed is that going to give you enough room? You might want to double check on the water line level. Don't worry about when it will be back in the water as much as it being done right before you are ready for shake down sailing. Keep up the great work.
Your channel makes me feel like I am back working for Sabre Yachts special projects division building the molds for the Sabre 32, 36 and 38. It's wonderful. How I miss all that engineering. Thanks.
So funny that you mentioned fantasising about cushions 😂I’ve been doing the exact same thing lately! As much as I love the challenges of boat work I can’t wait until I can get to the jobs that make her comfortable and visually pleasing!
Those drain tubes are usually not installed as straight shots. Typically, they are criss crossed with the starboard drain hole exiting the port side and vice versa.
I'm no shipbuilder, but I don't like having holes in the bottom of a boat that can't be closed off with a valve in case something happens in that drain breaks
I agree and the only holes below the water line are the cockpit drains, but they are just below the water line and pass through separate lockers which are isolated from the rest of the interior.
Yeah, I might have gone with an elbow at the gutter edges and exited at the stern with flapper valves. If one of those carbon tubes gets cracked.....well.....not good
What i use to do at out boat is a trick i call "petroleum jelly gasket". I clean both sides of what i want to seal, smear one side thin with pj and then fill it up with a water resistant silicone/sealant (sikka flex, thats what we use in germany, is a sealant for water use) and let it dry. Boom you have a 0 tolerance gasket that fits perfextly and it looks nearly seamless when you donit right. Just clean away the pj and you are done. Its flexible enough to move out of the way when the door/window whatever is opened. Need to make sure the non pj side has very good adhesion though. Nice project bro, nice ideas. The tubes seem a bit overkill for me but hey, rather be sure then sunken right 😅
Love watching your build you do good work 👏 just a thought, maybe hide a magnet allong the seat and hidden metal in the hatch to hold the Hatch open .. can't wait to see it in the water 👍
Great work, keep it up, love your channel's style and delivery. I note you've stated many have raised concerns, I hope its about the massive piece of structure you removed (Lifting skeg) and replaced with a couple of CF tubes.... As it looks like they are bonded into the deck and hull therefore becoming the now removed substantially larger skeg structure as the primary load path in that area. I'm a Building Surveyor, not a boat surveyor or a naval architect, but i've worked for 40 years with structural engineers fixated on load distribution. So just a little concerned for your aft deck / cockpit structure.
2:22 & 7:18 excellent funky music for a real funky sailboat project ! 😎👍 I have been following your project for several months. You deserve a lot more view. Greetings from France
You should inset some strong neodymium magnets into the hatch and the cockpit bench where it meets up. Cover them up with fiber tape and filler and gelcoat. Super strong and invisible mechanism to keep the hatch open, even in moving seas.
@@marcyvon8404 In the real world, we understand that there are magnets and produced magnetic fields all over every single modern boat. There's magnets on door hardware. There's magnets in every single motor on the boat. On the motors that don't have magnets, they still have steel cores and copper windings making magnetic fields because they are electromagnets. The diesel engine usually located directly beneath the cockpit where your magnetic compass will most likely be located is made almost entirely out of feromagnetic steel, and during it's operation, most of that steel becomes magnetized. That motor also has a very powerful alternator on it that produces significant magnetic fields. The truth is, NONE of these sources of magnetism on the boat affect the compass in any way that your eyes are able to perceive. They can affect digital magnetometers, but again its so insignificant that no impact to navigation will occur, and those sensors can be easily calibrated to zero out any influence from environmental magnetic sources. To be perfectly honest, you are more likely to get magnetic interference that will influence your navigation by sailing over iron ore deposits in shallow water, than having a couple of tiny neodymium magnets mounted on your boat.
I don’t have a sailboat . I do have a square body Chevy like Matt . Watching these boat shows and mostly Matt I was able to fix up my dash pad using glass . Now it’s Arizona proof and looks good with spray on bed liner for texture . Guess I’m saying is there are other places learning about glass work comes in handy . Thanks .
You just read my mind! I've have a mini skoolie and I've been playing with some ideas for an awning set-up that would be suspended and eliminate those obnoxious side rails. I'm also re-installing my countertops to include the lips like on a sailboat to catch all the spills and drips from rolling off ... but my pride and joy is my Dickenson Newport propane fireplace. It is literally my favorite thing in the bus. Taking construction and lifestyle cues from another vessel that bounces around has really helped me with my build. There are a lot of similarities and watching content like Matts has influenced my imagination... and I've really been paying attention to fiberglassing ... good to hear someone applying this knowledge to non-traditional applications.
I had deck drain holes also going through my hull in my Cole yacht I never had an issue they never caused water to blow back the only thing is I wished they were a larger diameter like the ones you installed .. Well done Matt👍🏻
That little treasure is growing-up fast! I probably just paranoid but I think I would have put those carbon tubes themselves into protective tubes! I love the steps idea.
Great work on the boat! It must be scary cutting big holes in the cockpit like that! And your son looks like he is already the size of a one-year-old! What a cutey!
Having watched another sailboat build (Redivida) they've been building (& continue to do so) for over 7 years...I have watched every episode. I & the rest of your fans (I think) will do the same the hatch is stuck because it has square edges. it would be best if you put a slight bevel on the opening side (timber joiners call this a leading edge - you'll probably find it on any interior hinged doors in your home)
4:00 in the mid 1980s, after I finished grad school, I worked in construction for two years to raise money for a "long trip to Europe", regardless, the person for whom I worked was a very experienced builder, and to give his clients a realistic estimate of how long a job would take, he very carefully calculated every step, with potential 'surprises' along the way, then simply doubled that time. Most often than not, he was right on the money, and when the work was done sooner than his estimations, the clients would be thrilled. How about saying Duracell will be ready to sail by 2028 for the next Vendée Globe? Besides, not one of us want you guys to rush, and to end our favourite UA-cam wednesday attraction!... ; ⁰ )
I love the video’s and the way you adjust this great boat. I saw the video about the hatch and I was wondering why you don’t mount strips on the down edges of the lid which fit in the ‘waterholes’. Now there is a risk of capillaire water the moves horizontal on the downside of the lid and drops in the boat. These suggested strips let the water stop and drop in the waterholes.
Going back a couple of episodes: I love the stanchion solution. I know you offhandedly said that the stanchions might be held to the posts with a set screw but please don’t do that; set screws typically work by deforming the end of the set screw into the material it is contacting and relies on that friction to prevent backing out. I would suggest drilling through the stanchion and post and using an R-clip, quick release clevis pin or some similar mechanical attachment method. I know you want “maintenance” free solutions and a set screw is the farthest thing from that. Cheers and great work.
You did a great job flush mounting the hinges. It's nice to know that you read and appreciate the comments we make. I'm of the opinion that the Duracell Project will be all the more successful for it. It's not often that I have anything to add to the conversation in the "boat yard" but it's refreshing to know my input may have played a tiny part. I'm looking forward to the next 3 years! The only other advice I can give is that it's easier to raise 2 children than it is raising 1 child. They become best friends by the age of 3,4,5 years old and they keep each other busy as well. Time divides, is true, however, love multiplies! ❤️ One thing I know more than hinges is raising children. We had 3 and we kind of hang our hat on the fact that each of our children fell in love, got married and had multiple children of their own. Giving us 9 grandkids in 10 years. Take it for what it's worth. Advice is free, but it's not cheap. -✌🏽
For a way to keep the hatch up: I recommend embedding strong magnets into both the hatch and where the hatch makes contact with the port bench. No visible hardware!
Looking good guys, To hold the floor hatch open when using it could you use a series of strong magnets recessed into both the surface of the seat hatches and the floor hatch?
![The Coolest COMPOSITE CHAINPLATES You'll Never See [EP 137]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qlsAsXLp9oE/mqdefault.jpg)
![The Coolest COMPOSITE CHAINPLATES You'll Never See [EP 137]](/img/tr.png)
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Many of you are concerned about the drain pipes. I'm not. I'll address this in next week's video. Thanks for watching. -Matt
No water will enter the boat from below. When the boat is moving a suction is created and helps evacuate the excess water. At anchor, water will only enter the tubes up to the waterline
😎 Matt knows best
My Roberts 36 has them, as do many other boats. I don't see the issue here.
Cool
Yeah solid cockpit fiberglass drain tubes have been used for decades in lots of sailboats. As well as regular cockpit drains using hoses. They are going to be more reliable than flexible hoses. A vertical drain pipe will evacuate water much faster than ones that slowly slope aft to the transom. As somebody who has had a big wave land in their cockpit, you want it to drain fast and not leak into the rest of the boat. Basically I am not worried. For those worried about how strong they are - watch this video of somebody hammering at a carbon bike frame (likely a bit thinner) ua-cam.com/users/shortsxFChJVvrLlE and tell me what's going to do that inside your boat.
Flex in the deck, flex in the hull. The carbon tubes are asked to perform like a bulkhead--I think you may eventually run into fatigue failure. Through-hull failures below the waterline account for about half of sinkings. This may be a tried and proven method, but it makes me nervous. On another note, thanks for sharing your journey--I'm inspired and impressed by your attention to detail, raw determination, and eye for design.
I was following you a while back and you had no more videos im back now you got a few well done and again congratulations on the baby good luck with the yacht and amazing work
more of that wonderful voice over with insight into the life of a small family of boat builders! 3 years is a great relief. With Tally Ho splashed I don't want to be out of high quality boat building content too soon.
"It'll be done when it's done" - Amen. I found this part very relatable. I said "two years" when we bought the boat. That's what I say whenever anyone asks how long our build will take, and that's what I will keep saying until the second the keel hits the water... Loving the progress. Cheers!
you understand, Jon :)
@@TheDuracellProjecthaha. Yes!
You are very talented what a project and your wife is cool to be on board you have a great team very impressive
The recessed hinges exemplify the excellence of the build.
Wow... those are some direct drains... Being in the aft section you'll hopefully have a suction there while moving through the water (created by stern rocker), but gotta say it's a little odd to me that you'd run those through the hull rather than down some hoses and out the transom. It also seems cool, but odd to then make those drains something you'll stand on. I'm guessing you'll beef them up a bit so there's no chance of a crack or breakage below the waterline.
Great job on the gutters and hinges and hatch cover! Those look beautiful!
I would have also drilled the holes in the gutter 45 degrees backwards, and then attached to a drain pipe out from transom .. but we know matt, he loves revisiting a project :)
@@physiolympha Can you imagine the tail-lashing he's gonna get from the inspector 😾🙀
ive been on a boat where the drains ran out the stern... they where glassed in but had cracked even though above waterline following sea allowed quite a lot of water in. finding this out ~400nm from land was concerning but fixable as it was above waterline.... not sure old mate here will have the same luck if these crack and leak
@@dustin9040 did you use duct tape to do a quick fix? Or something else?
I love that you talk about loving the process of building the boat AND sailing. Also, the realities of how money from things like the videos impact the timeframe. Very authentic points to make.
I'm sure there are alot of people watching this channel that knows boatwork that would like to come and help you build it! You could have them stay with you for a week, and have them rolling in weekly. Maybe cut that time frame down a year. Would be cool to see this boat being built by subscribers that are part of this community!
As an generational guy who has embraced epoxy, it is really nice to see the craftsmanship component of modern boat building and restoration. So glad to see Matt’s level of expectation. It is difficult to resist the Admiral/wife’s idea of when this should be done, but resist it must!
I'm not a shipwright. I've watch lots of shipwright channels and read quite a few books on it. I've done plenty of glasswork & modifications on boats of all sizes but Matt is something else entirely. Astounding skill and vision; an artist of the highest caliber.
Such an adorable baby; you look very proud as you should be daddy...just love your build; keep up the good work...
Drilling holes in the bottom of the boat scares me, but Matt knows what he is doing. Cute baby, growing bigger every week. Thanks for the video 👍👍👍😁
Looks like an unneccessay leak opportunity as well.
Over the lenght the ship can tork.... that looks like just to little adhesive surface to me.
But hey... only my instinct is telling me so.
This is episode 136 and it's the first time I thought, you don't want to to that. Seacocks are a nifty thing to have on your boat and those holes are creating more problems than they solve. Plenty of time to revisit it and it's additional drama and content. :)
I am certainly no expert but putting those pipes in like that really surprised me. I know they are carbon fibre but they look awful thin? Sure Matt know what he is doing and I am sure some expert would advise against it if it was not safe.
I had a boat with a cockpit that drained using that sort of vertical drop system - it had seacocks and the tubing connecting it was flexible. Imagine a loose engine or gear after a knockdown vs those rigid tubes.
Looks like they might be a problem to me. I would have taken them aft to the transom above the waterline with a scupper. Seems like they might be a source of some noise (gurgling) when the water is flowing by underway, besides having 2 thru-hulls with no means of closing except a driven in wooden plug if they get damaged.
4:30 Of course you want to go sailing, but, keep in mind you have just built a beautiful sailing dinghy, that can fix that need any time you want from April to September!
Hey guys, everything looks so easy with Matt, the precision is unbelievable, everything just seems to just fit together booom. The only thing I guess I found slightly concerning were the holes in the boat, I get the drainage part but instead of two holes could there have been just one and integrate both drainage pipes together as one. Anyhow not for me to say, I'm not a boat builder, I think everything you do is amazing. Anyhow, great to see the little guy making an appearance😊 Sending good energy your way....Neil😊😊☘☘
thanks, Neil. We'll be sure to address the drain pipes concerns in next week's ep.
Love your cockpit hatch and the way you did the drains! Great to be able to eliminate hoses, clamps and valves. The ladder is a great idea which really strengthens the drain pipes
Your hinges are most excellent and my first thought was that you should make a bunch extra for just in case, the second thought was that you should make a bunch extra for sale to both the general public and boat yards. People would buy them fer sher. Get Mom assembly lining those hinges!
amazing. quick question - if you slam or dive the stern in bad weather is there any risk of the aft hull slamming causing water to shoot up the drains under pressure?
... two (2) 45°at the drain, upper deck, to the opposite side (outboard) of each stringer would have done better + space.
My thoughts exactly. Maybe some dampening material inside the tube?
The notorious check valve dilemma. It is done on boats one way or another
@@wallacegrommet9343A lot of drag from those holes too...
@cjattard83 My thought was, would those tubes back fill if at anchor and it is raining non-stop?
Nice video as usual. Usually I don't comment as I see a thorough job. I'm an engineer by profession and I see a very solid build mechanically.
In this video however, i see a somewhat bothersome point. I didn't see any reinforcement of the cockpit sole hatch hole sharp corners to prevent crack propagation. Couple of layers of fibreglass in each corner would definitely prevent this.
Also the water drain system for this new hatch is '2 steps forward and 1 step back' solution. It's not a good solution in my opinion. There may be many failure modes for this solution. It's better you rethink to improve this solution.
I also have couple more video suggestions:
1. Test the strength of the stanchion studs for a person tipping on it.
2. Test the strength of the carbon fibre hinges for a person stepping on it few thousand times.
I know these are slightly tangential to the goal of building the boat. But I have been wondering about these things for a while.
Hello from Fort Wayne, IN. I enjoy watching your UA-cam videos. When you mentioned the date of when you think you want to sail your boat it reminded me of the other UA-cam channels SV Seeker, Sailing Uma, or Sampson Boat Co, they all ether build their boat from the ground up or restored it, while documenting their processes on UA-cam. They all learned not to report to their viewers when it's going to be done. It takes time if you want it do right and with mistakes. They also found out by not letting anyone know the finish date it was a lot less stress on them to finish their boat. Please take your time and be healthy with less stress.
Thought for sure I was the only one in Fort Wayne watching this series. Glad to see another Hoosier.
@@matthewmelchi6151 Il y en à d'autres dont un constructeur amateur suédois aussi étonnant que méticuleux qui vaut le détour www.youtube.com/@RANSailing/videos
Dan and Kika are absolute speed demons compared to these guys, but I think they also have Uma and related stuff as their main income whereas the Duracell project is basically "whenever we can do it between the day jobs and the baby."
Its a lovely idea - a ladder with hidden drain pipes. Its great when it possible to add interesting features.
Tally Ho timescales . . . finishing the boat will take another two years
Matt - Awesome job on the hatch! please keep in mind that the tubes should be analyzed as part of the hull structure and are exposed to the same stresses and pressures as the hull. So they should have the same strength as the foam core hull - I hope you strengthen them up so that they are, and keep in mind the tension/compression/shear from the deck flex compared to hull. (also one minor comment, you may hear the slurping/suction noise from those drains while sailing which could be annoying.) Please put a lot of thought into these tubes as they are currently the weakest link under the waterline. Really enjoying your build, amazing work!
Great episode! More progress! Keep growing little man! Got a crewman in the making there!👍👍thanks for sharing Duracell team keep rolling! 👍👍
Love your work and have taken heaps of learnings from this series. One thing with this hatch drain , it could act like a small whistle as water rises up and down the pipes and into sealed up area at hatch ... might push air past seal the cause noise , may also end up drawing water into to hatch drain and up into the boat as seal on hatch may act as a one way valve .... finger over the straw stuff . Hope that makes sense . Could test by applying say twice atmospheric pressure to area Spence hatch seal installed.
I truly like your hatch. When I was young, I apprenticed in New England as a shipwright. In many cases we had to cut out the pilot house floor to remove an engine. Yes we were also able to bring it out through the saloon, up and out. Your design, so nice.
Three years?!? Perfect! Rossco over at Life on the Hulls will be finishing soon and I was worried I’d no longer have any boat building vids to watch.
I think back to my five year build and how enjoyable it was… looking forward to many more Duracell episodes to come👍
Define soon 😂 Ross probably has a lot more to go than anyone expects.
@@nelsonclarke7912😂 Soon…ish.
Yeh, he’s still got steering, rigging, remaining elecs, gas, fuel tanks… so a little ways to go yet!
This is the first thing you have done that I have disagreed with. You just put two large holes in the hull to eliminate very occasional water. You have also restricted the area that the engine is going to sit in and any accessories that it may have maintenance may be limited by the two tubes that could have gone out to the sides of the hull above the water line. You now have two more hull holes that offer a major leak if they fail. Every sailor knows that the fewer hull penetrations the better. I just watched a video on a guy who bought a 70-foot boat and went to remove the generator water intake strainer and it was blocked by a big metal support addition in the engine room. Access to all sides of your engine is critical.
In too deep fan also!!
Just started watching him. No idea how he can afford the fuel on that. That’s a rich man’s boat.
@@gbpg2016ahhh..it’s a sailboat.
there's no good alternative though. If the boat gets swamped by a large wave over the bow, that water must be able to escape. Otherwise, big problems.
I agree, that hatch cover has such a tight tolerance that one drain off to the side or out the back above the water line would suffice
Great ideas and quality workmanship and topnotch music
Great video again you are a very skilled couple, both in boat building and video production 👍👍👍
I appreciate the artistry and thought put into this project. Details like the flush mount hinges are gifts that keep on giving everything except a stubbed toe! cheers!
Matt, to keep the door open I would use flush mounted rare earth magnets. You could even fiberglass over the top so you can't see the magnets!
keeping the cockpit door open? recessed magnets that you then glass over to make them invisable... same for using to open the hatch so its nice and clean / flush. recess a magnet in the hatch and then make a tool with the magnet in the end to pull up :)
I'm thrilled to know that I have another three years of watching Matt build this work of art!
Not to mention, the videography and editing!
I’m actually relived to know iv got 3 years of content to get through ! favourite channel !
ha ha
I really like the discussions you have added that are over top the video of sading/glassing portion of the project....
won't water sit in those drain tubes up to the water line? and if there are slamming waves, wont water come out of the top of the tubes when water pressure from the boat slamming down??
exactly my thought
I was thinking this too. Will the water drain at all, if the drain hole is under the water line of the boat ? The pressure of the ocean water will push against the water coming from the drain. Or am I missing something completely?
Water finds its own level. But if the ship lists port or starboard to far it could allow water to come in on the lower side. I mean I'm sure him and the engineer behave discussed this in far greater detail than all of us viewers. And I'm just some guy who is YT certified doing my own thing so idk
Sterns don't really slam... If any does come up, it hits the underside of the hatch and drains out again.
In boat building, there is NO scrap, it is “unallocated” material!
Three years! I admire your patience! I built a fridge last season... then went sailing 😊 The background banter is great- gives the channel extra depth.
Love the conversation during the Video
That is a new feature that I haven't encountered anywhere else, this mini interview during the edit. Works really well and fits your style.
Great to be able to follow the Duracell Project. Re the drain pipes: have you considered crossing them? E.g., under heel to starboard, most of the starboard pipe will be filled with water, restricting outflow. Whatever, lots of success!
Matt - Not sure if you haven't created whistle tubes with those drain tubes. Water flowing by under the hull will want to pull air with it (this is similar to how you create moderate level vacuum in lab experiments) and this may create a constant whistling or whooshing noise when the boat is underway. Not sure if this isn't going to be a constant annoyance, but something to think about.
The transition from a dialogue introduction to music was beautifully enhanced by the track choice. I like.
Don’t worry too much. When you go sailing you’ll still be working on the boat!. Your level of ingenuity and craftsmanship is mind bogglingly off the planet good. I’m happy to keep watching for the next three years.
It looks like a fair amount of people aren’t digging the drainage system. Another great vid. Looking forward to staying on board with you guys for the rest of this journey. Keeping the faith.
Great to see Adler, he has got a good head of hair already! In all my years ive never seen drains go straight out like that. I guess it should work. Hope the pressure under the hull doesnt force it up the pipes with the top being open to atmosphere. I cant imagine that you havnt thought of that and done your research. Maybe the passing water when underway will even act as suction and help. Those steps are very nice touch, great dual use. Hope they dont get in the way of later fit out. Good videography as usual. God bless you all from essex U.K. ❤
the details involved in getting a COMPLETE and well thought out FINISHED boat takes time energy and thought and planning takes TIME.
Keep on Keepin ON !
Well, let me say that I’ve watched so much of Matt fiberglassing, I was able to totally repair the stupid cheap plastic shelving inside my refrigerator doors…thanks Matt!
nice job!
“Two years” worked for Leo. Just keep saying that.
For keeping the hatch open, suggest using a large spring on either the forward or aft side; one end attached to the hatch and the other to the side of the gutter. To close you bend the spring towards the hinge side. When open, the spring automatically extends and acts as a support. We had these on our HEAVY Cheoy Lee cockpit and lazerette hatches and they were the definition of function and simplicity.
One other thing that I noticed that I have run into on several boats is the ability to remove the hatch when doing major things on the engine. Say you want to place a board across the seats to lift something heavy out of the hole. The hatch needs to have pintle-type hinges to be removed easily.
Really enjoy your content! This is the first time I’ve worried. Here are my thoughts on your cockpit hatch drains:
When heeled, neither pipe will drain optimally. The low side pipe will put the cockpit sole near the water line, potentially bring water IN (perhaps consider non-return valves at the gutter drains); and the high side pipe will drain slowly and only until the cockpit drain is high and dry (with water still potentially pooled on the low side). The “old school” solution to this problem is to cross the drains-the starboard cockpit drain exiting the hull on the port side, and visa versa. Another “old school” rule is to avoid rigid plumbing-especially plumbing connected to below-the-waterline thruhulls. Your carbon tubes connect the hull to the deck, and carbon has no elasticity at all. Flexing of your boat’s structure in a seaway may eventually result in cracking at the hull-to-tube or tube-to-deck joint (or both). Which is an example of why, as other commenters have pointed out, all below-the-waterline thruhulls should absolutely have seacocks. A more seamanlike solution would have been to have (1) used flexible hose for the drains to allow the hull and deck structures to flex without risking cracks below the water line, (2) installed proper seacocks at each drainpipe’s exit through the hull, and (3) crossed the drainpipes port-to-starboard and starboard-to-port so that you have drainage on either tack (even well heeled over) and no chance of shipping water through the low-side drain.
That's how we did it on our boats as well (crossed flexi hoses into seacocks). Hull flex onto glued carbon would make me very nervous of a crack below the waterline.
Haha! Matt says: "She's gonna sail when she's ready!"
I like the fact that you guys are really appreciating and enjoying the process! I think it's a great way to love your life.
Shout out to Yani, that always puts a great effort into editing this beautiful experience of yours! Cheers!
The capillary effect can be implemented when liquid moves faster than other liquids, It can expel other liquids.
OMG!! Cameo from the Little Buddy!! He's so stinking adorable 🥰
Your project is amazing and your glassing skills are mind-blowing! I have a concern about the drain tubes. As drains they are great, but carbon tubes are quite brittle and lateral impacts from equipment in the below-decks could easily fracture them. Also, they are attached to the most rigid part of the boat on one end and the deck, a horizontal diaphragm, with unpredictable live loads on the other - one end or the other will eventually work loose. A hose and hose clamps are ugly, but they can take a tremendouse amount of abuse without failing and the movement differential of the cockpit sole and the bilge will not matter with hoses.
so close to 100k, ive been watching since you were in the 30k subs and man has this channell grown!!
That is a pretty cool hatch set up, Matt, strong but light, rust proof, and carbon drain/ ladder mechanism 😂 very clever mate. Little guys loving it
It'll be done when it's done is the right attitude Matt! Last thing you want to do is rush it and half ass it. I mean this is an extremely ambitious project to take a boat designed for speed and totally retrofit it to be a cruising home, even with a team of ppl it can takes years. I know you're feeling antsy but don't rush it or worry about us, we're here for the long haul. 👍👍
Hi Matt, The boat is coming along nicely. I was not surprised that you put drain holes in the back. I would have run them to the back of the boat for over board. The other thing I would have hinged it forward this would give you more room for the engine you mentioned to be able to put in the lower compartment. You talked about a size of a hundred horse power engine giving you room even if you choose a eighty horsepower. With those drains in the pace you installed is that going to give you enough room?
You might want to double check on the water line level.
Don't worry about when it will be back in the water as much as it being done right before you are ready for shake down sailing. Keep up the great work.
Yay - 3 more years!
Your channel makes me feel like I am back working for Sabre Yachts special projects division building the molds for the Sabre 32, 36 and 38. It's wonderful. How I miss all that engineering. Thanks.
So funny that you mentioned fantasising about cushions 😂I’ve been doing the exact same thing lately! As much as I love the challenges of boat work I can’t wait until I can get to the jobs that make her comfortable and visually pleasing!
Those drain tubes are usually not installed as straight shots. Typically, they are criss crossed with the starboard drain hole exiting the port side and vice versa.
This is going to a be one well designed and superbly built sailing yacht
Look forward to hearing your defence of the “holes”. The ladder steps, to date, are the coolest part/idea I think you have done!
Hey just a thought, add a few hanging plants in your tent shed above the boat to make the video and atmosphere nicer. A little greenery
I'm no shipbuilder, but I don't like having holes in the bottom of a boat that can't be closed off with a valve in case something happens in that drain breaks
I agree. I mean, after all, isn't that why you put ball valves on thru hulls?
I agree and the only holes below the water line are the cockpit drains, but they are just below the water line and pass through separate lockers which are isolated from the rest of the interior.
Yeah, I might have gone with an elbow at the gutter edges and exited at the stern with flapper valves. If one of those carbon tubes gets cracked.....well.....not good
I had the same thought. And with sufficient hydraulic pressure they could turn into water spouts!
@@cs11858 When the boat is heeled the leeward drain needs to be pointing out to the side of the boat which is the most efficient angle.
Love the channel... never commented before, but what happens if a carbon tube gets broken with no isolation valve at the hull penetration?
What i use to do at out boat is a trick i call "petroleum jelly gasket". I clean both sides of what i want to seal, smear one side thin with pj and then fill it up with a water resistant silicone/sealant (sikka flex, thats what we use in germany, is a sealant for water use) and let it dry. Boom you have a 0 tolerance gasket that fits perfextly and it looks nearly seamless when you donit right. Just clean away the pj and you are done. Its flexible enough to move out of the way when the door/window whatever is opened. Need to make sure the non pj side has very good adhesion though. Nice project bro, nice ideas. The tubes seem a bit overkill for me but hey, rather be sure then sunken right 😅
Very meticulous work on the hatch and drainage , strong and functional. Baby's beautiful. Thanks for the video.
Love watching your build you do good work 👏 just a thought, maybe hide a magnet allong the seat and hidden metal in the hatch to hold the Hatch open .. can't wait to see it in the water 👍
Great work, keep it up, love your channel's style and delivery. I note you've stated many have raised concerns, I hope its about the massive piece of structure you removed (Lifting skeg) and replaced with a couple of CF tubes.... As it looks like they are bonded into the deck and hull therefore becoming the now removed substantially larger skeg structure as the primary load path in that area. I'm a Building Surveyor, not a boat surveyor or a naval architect, but i've worked for 40 years with structural engineers fixated on load distribution. So just a little concerned for your aft deck / cockpit structure.
Your little man looks amazing! He’s so big already!
I love the drain pipes through the hull. Very punk rock boat building. Haters be hating!
2:22 & 7:18 excellent funky music for a real funky sailboat project ! 😎👍
I have been following your project for several months. You deserve a lot more view.
Greetings from France
You should inset some strong neodymium magnets into the hatch and the cockpit bench where it meets up. Cover them up with fiber tape and filler and gelcoat. Super strong and invisible mechanism to keep the hatch open, even in moving seas.
In a boat we use compasses to navigate. These devices don't like magnets at all.
@@marcyvon8404 In the real world, we understand that there are magnets and produced magnetic fields all over every single modern boat. There's magnets on door hardware. There's magnets in every single motor on the boat. On the motors that don't have magnets, they still have steel cores and copper windings making magnetic fields because they are electromagnets. The diesel engine usually located directly beneath the cockpit where your magnetic compass will most likely be located is made almost entirely out of feromagnetic steel, and during it's operation, most of that steel becomes magnetized. That motor also has a very powerful alternator on it that produces significant magnetic fields. The truth is, NONE of these sources of magnetism on the boat affect the compass in any way that your eyes are able to perceive. They can affect digital magnetometers, but again its so insignificant that no impact to navigation will occur, and those sensors can be easily calibrated to zero out any influence from environmental magnetic sources.
To be perfectly honest, you are more likely to get magnetic interference that will influence your navigation by sailing over iron ore deposits in shallow water, than having a couple of tiny neodymium magnets mounted on your boat.
I don’t have a sailboat . I do have a square body Chevy like Matt . Watching these boat shows and mostly Matt I was able to fix up my dash pad using glass . Now it’s Arizona proof and looks good with spray on bed liner for texture . Guess I’m saying is there are other places learning about glass work comes in handy . Thanks .
You just read my mind! I've have a mini skoolie and I've been playing with some ideas for an awning set-up that would be suspended and eliminate those obnoxious side rails. I'm also re-installing my countertops to include the lips like on a sailboat to catch all the spills and drips from rolling off ... but my pride and joy is my Dickenson Newport propane fireplace. It is literally my favorite thing in the bus. Taking construction and lifestyle cues from another vessel that bounces around has really helped me with my build. There are a lot of similarities and watching content like Matts has influenced my imagination... and I've really been paying attention to fiberglassing ... good to hear someone applying this knowledge to non-traditional applications.
Awesome, nice work
I had deck drain holes also going through my hull in my Cole yacht I never had an issue they never caused water to blow back the only thing is I wished they were a larger diameter like the ones you installed .. Well done Matt👍🏻
That little treasure is growing-up fast!
I probably just paranoid but I think I would have put those carbon tubes themselves into protective tubes!
I love the steps idea.
Great work on the boat! It must be scary cutting big holes in the cockpit like that!
And your son looks like he is already the size of a one-year-old! What a cutey!
OmG 3 years? We gotta get this channel buzzing. Such good builds
Your son is growing fast, faster than the boat. I hope you can finish it in less than three years, I don’t think I have that much time left.
This was a great video lots of good work on the boat and excellent music . 3 years is nothing !
Having watched another sailboat build (Redivida) they've been building (& continue to do so) for over 7 years...I have watched every episode. I & the rest of your fans (I think) will do the same
the hatch is stuck because it has square edges. it would be best if you put a slight bevel on the opening side (timber joiners call this a leading edge - you'll probably find it on any interior hinged doors in your home)
That hull is gonna rock and roll at every anchor.
4:00 in the mid 1980s, after I finished grad school, I worked in construction for two years to raise money for a "long trip to Europe", regardless, the person for whom I worked was a very experienced builder, and to give his clients a realistic estimate of how long a job would take, he very carefully calculated every step, with potential 'surprises' along the way, then simply doubled that time. Most often than not, he was right on the money, and when the work was done sooner than his estimations, the clients would be thrilled. How about saying Duracell will be ready to sail by 2028 for the next Vendée Globe? Besides, not one of us want you guys to rush, and to end our favourite UA-cam wednesday attraction!... ; ⁰ )
I have plans to build a flip out anchor hatch. So I will also be building gutters similar to yours for the new hole I’ll be putting in my deck boat.
I enjoy watching this project so much I don't want it to end
I love the video’s and the way you adjust this great boat. I saw the video about the hatch and I was wondering why you don’t mount strips on the down edges of the lid which fit in the ‘waterholes’. Now there is a risk of capillaire water the moves horizontal on the downside of the lid and drops in the boat. These suggested strips let the water stop and drop in the waterholes.
The drainage pipes, and making them a ladder. Fantastic.
Coming along nicely. Looking lovely.
Going back a couple of episodes: I love the stanchion solution. I know you offhandedly said that the stanchions might be held to the posts with a set screw but please don’t do that; set screws typically work by deforming the end of the set screw into the material it is contacting and relies on that friction to prevent backing out. I would suggest drilling through the stanchion and post and using an R-clip, quick release clevis pin or some similar mechanical attachment method. I know you want “maintenance” free solutions and a set screw is the farthest thing from that. Cheers and great work.
You did a great job, aesthetically pleasing and useful.
OMG what are you feeding the child. He’s gonna be big enough to sail before you’re done!
BTW, *brilliant* work on the hinges.
I'm a fan and your boat etc... but I think we should run a book on who thinks those drains get remodelled before launch.
You did a great job flush mounting the hinges. It's nice to know that you read and appreciate the comments we make.
I'm of the opinion that the Duracell Project will be all the more successful for it.
It's not often that I have anything to add to the conversation in the "boat yard"
but it's refreshing to know my input may have played a tiny part.
I'm looking forward to the next 3 years!
The only other advice I can give is that it's easier to raise 2 children than it is raising 1 child.
They become best friends by the age of 3,4,5 years old and they keep each other busy as well. Time divides, is true, however, love multiplies! ❤️
One thing I know more than hinges is raising children.
We had 3 and we kind of hang our hat on the fact that each of our children fell in love, got married and had multiple children of their own. Giving us 9 grandkids in 10 years.
Take it for what it's worth. Advice is free, but it's not cheap.
-✌🏽
For a way to keep the hatch up: I recommend embedding strong magnets into both the hatch and where the hatch makes contact with the port bench. No visible hardware!
I love that hatch, fab!
Looking good guys, To hold the floor hatch open when using it could you use a series of strong magnets recessed into both the surface of the seat hatches and the floor hatch?
I enjoy watching your videos, there's always time for sailing!