Stroker Break In! Let's talk about the build.
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- Опубліковано 13 січ 2023
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That's the first time I have seen someone break in a flat tappet camshaft While driving the vehicle.😁👍👍
Just the first stage of break in. Next step was higher rpm max and some full throttle
He should of fired it up and held it about 2,000 rpms for about 15 to 20 minutes, Letting it idle or just driving it around is a good way to wipe out a lobe on the cam.
I didn’t ‘let it idle’ for more than a few seconds at a time and not often. Avoided that. Driving I keep it above 1800 rpm as recommended. I was also varying the rpm’s above 1800. That’s the minimum. They also recommend breaking it in ‘under load’. Did my last engine build the same and it worked out great.
hey dale nice build we did the same build but a 4.7 we also used enginetec parts butt a few differntances we used a crank from a 1976 4.2 the snout on the crank is a little longer and the crank bearings were different on the kit the bearings for the 4.0 were the wrong ones needed to buy extra bearings for the crank the trust bearing was different than the newer crank also we used a howell fuel injection had to make an adapter for that also we used a 1991 intake all this went into a 1977 jeep cj7
Congrats Dale! I had the same issue with my first start on the CJ Stroker. That timing can be tricky, thats for sure. Wait til you get that broke in and can actually let the Stroker loose!
As the miles on the engine creep up on the timing chain, it slowly starts to stretch it by about 1 tooth on the distributor. So after you add a new chain, If you ever drop the distributor exactly where you unbolted it from at top dead center, adjust it by 1 tooth if it doesn't fire up. If that works, try two teeth, if that doesn't work, go back to 1 tooth.
Well done. Must be an awesome feeling.
So cool to be driving it now!! Thanks
Love your videos!
Aloha from Hawaii!
Thanks for watching!
I have a 95 YJ. Looking forward to adding a stroker down the road. Thanks for bringing us along, and bring transparent with it all. Also, wondering if you have hats for purchase anywhere?
thanks! I hope to make a mpg video down the road, to see how it affected my mileage. I do have hats available on my channel marketplace.
Respect my friend.
Thank you!
You did an excellent job Dale . Now to build another stroker for Sasha's XJ Sully ha ha .
Haha! yeah. someone actually asked me what I was going to do with the engine that came out of my new stroker jeep. I hadn't really thought about it, but then had the idea of rebuilding it and dropping it in Sulley. Maybe I'll get Sasha to do most of the work :)
Id love to see one more video, after break in. Was the stroker worth the extra effort over the 4.0?
I’ve been subscribed now for going on 4 years!! I love your content and the knowledge you share. 4 years ago I didn’t have a yj nor did I ever think I would. But now I do and I love it!!!! It’s the little 4 banger you know the one with every bit of 100 squirrel power.. anyway I have a question involving wiring under the dash. The guy before me butchered almost every wore down there and somehow had the dash lights hooked to a toggle switch. And I’m installing a radio and having a hard time trying to figure out which wire is which and how to get my dash lights back.. it’s a 1995 2.5 if you know anything about the radio harness or what color wire does what to steer me in the right direction I just can’t find anything on which wire does what and how to fix this no dash lights issue. By the way they did work before with the toggle switch they flickered often but did work. With the new radio though nothing at all.
I picked up my first TJ restoration project a few months ago. Restoring cars in Canada sucks! lol This thin has fought me every step of the way. It seems most of the hardware is completely rotten and I keep snapping bolts. Last night I tried to tighten the alternator wire because it was loose and SNAP! $250 for a new alternator.... Canada sucks for getting parts too.
ooof! yeah. rust can be a killer.
Hey Dale love content I am getting ready to rebuild my 97 xj into 4.6 stroker. I have a few questions when using the short rod build do you have to run higher octane gas so the engine doesn't ping when driving? Thankyou
Nice job on the build
Thank you!!
@@JeepSolid your welcome
Dale do you have a video about what computer or PCM you are running?
Is it the stock computer with the stroker?
Dale, I didn't see where you talked about managing the compression ratio... I did see that the pistons in the kit you used provide a .011 lower compression height, but no dish volume is given. If it's the usual 17.5cc's, your static compression ratio is around 9.3:1. The stock replacement cam is not going to lower the dynamic compression ratio at all. Your quench is something like .078", which is much higher than the "ideal" of .45 or so. It seems like this engine is going to be fairly sensitive to spark knock, even on premium fuel... Just curious what your thoughts on this are, and if there was actually something you did to lower the CR... Thanks for the build series!!!!
I’ve been running regular 87 octane without any issue. No knocking at all
Did you have to tune the ECM to work with the 4.6L.
What are your exhaust temps I need help my 4.6 build glows and can’t find out what is going on
What year 4.2 did your crankshaft come out of?
Any need for qny tuning after break in?
Good morning
Hey Jim. Good morning!
Let us know what MPG you get once its broken in.
how did you get the valve cover so clean? i have a couple of the older aluminum valve covers that ive done the Cruiser54 modifications on that i want to clean up and either paint, or attempt to polish them
Gas and a tooth brush. Modern day degreasers suck. They are so weak (thanks EPA!)
I painted mine (black with gold fins) years ago and it still looks great.
Gas is now the best degreaser we have.
vaporblast
I used Purple Power and a scotch bright pad. That cleaned it up pretty good. Then painted it.
You ever do a video on driving it after breaking it in? Was it big difference in power
I do notice a difference! It has a lot of get-up-and-go! I’ve been known to race some off the line at a red light (following all motor vehicle laws..haha!). Definitely surprises people. But still not a race car. It’s a Jeep. LOL😂
@@JeepSolid thanks I’m about to start on one for XJ.
My background: 19 years as a Certified BMW, Ducati, Honda, and Harley Davidson technician. I've moved on to cars after about 7 years (the pay sucks for moto mechs. people that work on bikes truly do it for passion and not money unless you go into pure powersports/side-by-side accessories or frame replacements), rebuilt a 1980 F150 custom and now am a 1995 Jeep Wrangler YJ Fanatic on my off time (I swear, Jeep is like the motorcycle of cars with how customizable they are) and currently am a Tesla Technician (Completely different i know!)
SO,
On bikes, after uncrate and build in a dealership setting, the customer will ultimately be the break in rider for 600 miles, they get their first service (torques, remove break in oil and all around inspection (really, you cannot trust factories).
My questions as I gain experience in Large engines vs small:
Did you use a high zink oil for your build?
Older bikes needed to stay under half the RPM range to redline (BMW actually limits new bikes to a lower max rpm range to force the New Rider to not blow up their bike, until their first service and then we shut off the limiter in the software) however, it is necessary to every once in a while get the RPMs up to redline for a not-sustained times (Blips, revs, unloaded allowing the engine to be free up to a point a couple of seconds). But motorcycle engines are high compression and often replicas of race models.
What i'm getting at: When do you feel is an appropriate time/mileage to bring the RPMs up and what kind of manual driver are you? Like, what RPM do you prefer to change gears regularly beyond the recommended shift lights proposal of about 1800? Specifically in a new engine build.
I've built many a race motor and will heat cycle many times to operating temp, then cool completely. Then start riding/driving about 200 miles no higher than halfway to redline, then a bit higher the new 100 miles, then go to just before red about 5-10 miles, then the last 300 before oil change no higher than half to red. After that, all bets are on and you're good.
Ok, sorry, I commented before actually WATCHING the video. But for some reason, i still feel it's necessary to get up to readline here and there for a second or two even in the first 200 miles.
Where'd you get your hardtop headliner/side carpet? I was going to upholster insulation panels with headliner material, but i just installed a new bedrug carpet kit and it's amazing. Also, the same grey as your hardtop lining. I'd like my interior to match all around.
I read somewhere also ( 7:30 ) that in design from factory, the Jeep engine cylinders were a bit squared off initially, so as the cylinders wear, they round out and it's part of what makes their engines last 400,000+ miles. I can't speak to an amazing engine like you've installed, but any truth to this or any passing of information you've received on the topic?
This helps the rings and cylinders in a heat cycle shape to each other and assists in the best compression in higher RPMs the life of the engine. Sorta like precharging the voltage on a new battery for battery life.
Ok, I'm a nut like you.
Are you interested in learning some interesting things about YJ's?
I'm kind of a YJ expert.
I thought with flat tappet cams your supposed to break in the cam by reving it at 2000-2500 for 20 mins?
Yeah, I was thinking higher RPMs need to be there for a short time after the first 200-300 miles and only after several at-idle heat cycles.
I primed the oil system (distributor out)
Then start and vary the engine speed from 1,500-3,000 rpm in a slow, to moderate, acceleration/deceleration cycle. No synthetic oil, extra zddp. 20 to 30 minutes, watching the temp.
change oil and filter. assembly lube can clog the filter.
Then I drive easy but normal for 500 miles (no excessive idle) then drop oil and filter again.
Then at 5000 I start using synthetic. I always use high zddp oil. (I don't have a cat)
Yeah. About there. I was keeping it between 1800-2500 for the first 30min. Then the next 30min you can bring the high limit up to 3500-4000, with 5-6 full throttle accelerations and a few min (5 or so) rest between them.
The cam. Really important to break in the cam.
Heat cycle too. Then change the oil and filter (Motorcraft FL-1A)
Strokers NEVER start very well. All I have seen, crank...crank...crank...
I don't know why.
Thank you! I am taking caution breaking in the cam. Don't want to destroy my work. I always seem to struggle with jeep timing, but 1/2 the battle is recognizing that issue. Haha!