@@MeatPez - I’ve been a professional Auto Tech since the early nineties but I get your point. The problem is that many people watching these videos aren’t very mechanically inclined but they’re not gonna let that stop them. If you’re going to go to the trouble of making a video you should at least have before and after examples to illustrate a proper repair.
Absolutely wonderful instructional video for solving a problem that 99% of all TJ owners have; even down to torque lbs and gasket model. You hit on every necessary detail and made this engine repair within reach for us novices! Thanks for posting!!
I built sooo many model cars as a kid. I grew up and so did my models 😀. I enjoy working on them and most of all building them up. Glad you are enjoying your new hobby! Hope the vids help you!
I recently purchased a 2000 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 and was dealt the cracked and dreadful cylinder head. This video had every step and every detail to complete the job. Thank you Cruz
Great video!!! My XJ has 280000+ miles on it and I'm going to put stock ratio roller rockers in it. It still runs like a champ. I have the same valve cover gasket on mine. So far, the only major thing I've had to do on it, is change the cylinder head gasket in addition to the other gaskets.
Great video! Thanks to you, I pulled off the job no problem. After a BG109 engine flush and new plugs, Still had some unidentified ticking- thinking maybe lifters but then discovered slight exhaust leak on one of the flanges at the pre cat. Just thought maybe, for those interested, try tightening those bolts up first (booger to get to, but a wobble 15mm socket with extension did the trick) The forward flange bolts were a little loose and it worked like a charm. It just might solve that ticking noise before diving into the bigger project?? Regardless, really appreciate your awesome instructions as my engine has never sounded better!
Great video! Love that you even show people the basics like the appropriate way to use a torque wrench. Even to take tension off before storing it. Been using torque wrenches for 40 years and never really thought about the appropriate way to use them, even though I do everything you said. Not everyone has the wisdom that you share.
Felpro oil pan and valve cover gaskets ALWAYS!! 👍 I've bought engine kits that come with some other brand valve cover and oil pan gasket. I'll go buy the Felpro Permatorque separately every time. Gaskets such as water pump and thermostat gaskets I'm not as picky.
You guys are legit for sure. Easy to understand very informative and you’re talking about the important specs and highlights of the task. Not a bunch of extra BS. Plus I can tell that you know from experience and time on the job not just saying shot to say it. Thanks , you are mechanic animals. Edit: I’m in Columbia just 35 miles south of y’all. No wonder I could understand you easy .. lol
Thanks for the ending comment about the restoration of power, I have exactly that problem, I replaced the injectors, which helped but I also have a misfire code on cyl 3. The ticking is pretty bad. I'll check out the rocker arms. I have over 200k miles on the rebuilt head.
I have a 2000 XJ Sport with the 4.0 6 cyl. I'm getting the rattle and a misfire on #5. I'm guessing and hoping this will do it. I got the jeep with 315k KMS (195k MILES) for $500 CDN ($395 USD) with no tires(owner bought it for the tires and sold it to me as a slider) in 2018. I sent it to Bakers 4X4 here in Ontario Canada and restored it with some body work/floor pans/rockers and I'm just crossing 320k KMS (198k MILES). The bonus is it came with a 6 inch RC lift. Thank you for the video and the PRO tips. Fly fast shoot straight and never look back!
Great job! You've convinced me to do this to my '98 XJ. Very good camera work and straight to the point. Definitely one of the most helpful vids I've seen in quite a while. Keep up the good work!
Had a lifter tick ,pulled the cover and watched the no.2 cyl exhaust bleed off fast so i loosened the rocker arm off then re tightened, no more tick I think the check ball was not seating, 100 miles and still no noise
Thanks Bruhda. I just slapped a reman in my 02 tj. It didn't pull like I thought it should. I'm a small block chevy shade tree mechanic. I was about to set TDC on every piston. Lol. Thanks for all your time an wisdom on the 4.0. Thank you
I get that question a lot about having to set TDC for each cylinder. Ford and Chrysler/AMC, you don't have to worry about that. I've build a many small block and big block Chevy's so I totally understand what you are saying. You are welcome! Glad the video helped you!
Man you should get paid for this vid! Coincidence -- mine is very close to same as yours. Also 2000 TJ with 177k miles. Bought it new in 2000 and have taken good care of it. And alllll this time I've been putting up with that clicking, that's it? lol. I've been putting it off and dreading it, assuming I was gonna have to adjust everyone of those freaking valves! Your video probably just cut my time in half and saved me a lot of guess work. Now I already know what to buy so I can just buy everything first and have it ready. You made it look easy. Just hope mine goes that well. Thx a bunch!! By the looks of all these comments, it must be very common after around 20yrs/175K miles. But on a scarey note...... On my job, I picked up an engine that had blown at 220K miles, that was also a 2000 4.0. Again, he bought his new and took care of it. He said it just simply wore out. #6 piston skirt just wore thru at the pin. So that may tell me what to expect in the future.
Glad the video helped you!! That is kinda rare for for the piston skirt issue. I have been building engines for MANY years .. thats rare for a normal wear that has been taken care of.
The only problem with tightening up the top (valves, rockers, push rods, lifters) is that the next weakest link is the rod bearings. Had a valve job done on a high mileage motor (300k+) wasn't more than 5k later and the rod bearing went. Lost power and started knocking and blowing smoke. Guy who did the valve job told me I should have done the bottom t the same time. I rolled the dice on it and lost. Great vid! God bless and stay well.
Bud, I dont know who told you that but they are wrong. I have been building engines since I was 15 years old. I'm 50 now. Tightening the rockers has NOTHING to do with the condition of the rod or main bearings. That engine had bigger issues to begin with if that happened.
Love these AMC 6s and V8s; non adjustable lifters; so easy to work on; thanks; great video !!!!!!!!! Greatly maintained engine too; and Melling is an excellent quality part !!
Thank you for an excellent video. I learned a lot. You do an excellent job "de-mystifying projects in the Jeep! Saving me $$ on getting my old jeep fixed on a budget.
Ive watch this video 3 times by now, i have a similar issue, my rockers are loose i can wiggle them myself no matter how much i torque the bolts no change
My rockers are all tight on my 2.5, just rebuilt last night. It was a lot worse than it was now, I had them too tight, redoing them to the correct torque quieted it down but it still ticks
You NEVER loosen your torque wrench to the point you hear rattling inside the handle. NEVER. Reduce your wrench to the lowest torque setting on the handle markings. Been using micrometer style torque wrenches for 40 years and you absolutely will throw the calibration out of whack by turning the adjuster all the way out. Minimum torque setting on the scale is always recommended.
Seems like a lot of these parts fit TON of years 4.0. I just got a 95 YJ, still catching up on it's maintenance. Prior your release of this video I just did the valve cover gasket. You know, I thought it was noisy in the rocker area. Man, wish I knew all this before. I also need to fixed my CAD, need to install new engine mounts, new exhaust header too. Previous owner kid did some poor work on this jeep. I'm going to check out your website.amd other videos. Thanks for your channel!
Just completed a full 1996 Grand Cherokee 4.0 rebuild at 191K miles. Much valve train wear due to using Castrol Syntec oil with no ZDDP anti-wear additive. Everything you changed we changed, but our machinist said the cam, lifters, and timing chain also were badly worn. The bottom edge of the lifters were worn down razor sharp where the new lifter had smooth round-over. Did you use a bore scope to inspect the cam lobes for wear?
Nope, didn't look down in the lifters. There was some wear on the top end parts we took out but it wasn't anything alarming. You on the other hand have much more parts wear it seems. It may be time for a new cam and lifter kit for you.
@@Poweraddicts New cam, lifters, push rods, timing chain/gears, and oil pump are installed. New pistons, crank journals ground, new main bearings too. BTW - piston slap is what caused the noise in our 4.0L, especially #3 where the piston skirt on one side was close to cracking completely off.
Pull the motor out of my 79 J10 EMC to 58 Six, rebuilt with a new parts Including top end kit. However now it sounds like a diesel. Thinking it could be the oil pump not circulating the oil properly. Any ideas? Appreciate your time and efforts.
What would cause A dead miss on A 1990 wrangler 4.2? We put new plugs and wires, adjusted the carburetor, it has new rotor and distributor cap. The compression is 2 psi above or below 125 on all 6 cylinders. It has loud pecking sound under the valve cover on what sounds like #3 cylinder. I wouldn't think the rocker wear would be enough to cause A dead miss, I could be wrong though.
Excellent instructions thank you. But after getting everything back together, no leaks and sounded great I started driving and would idle at 2000 rpms unless I shifted down and engine is running super hot (gauges are fine) throwing p2096 code. I’m trying to figure out how doing this has created this problem? Any thoughts?
Awesome.. I'm swapping my head bc it's cracked. 0331 head. My concern was the rockers.. some say you have to cycle the motor and tighten each one at TDC, but you just torqued them as the set.
Some engines have a specific valve lash setting that can only be set by doing certain rockers at certain piston positions. Older GM engines you have to cycle the engine. Most older Ford and Chrysler engines you can just torque them down and roll.
I've got an engine on the stand that's gonna get rebuilt. I can simulate swapping lifters on it. All the rigs I have access to right now are running great. If you're referring to top end valve rattle, most of the time it's the rocker arms and rocker arm pivots are worn out. The fella that owns the TJ that I did the rocker arm video on keeps talking about putting a high performance cam in his. If he does I know I'll get the video on that as well.
Best instructional video I've seen on youtube, & all the tips are great. It feels like I'm listening to a real experienced mechanic. Now if you can tell me how to get the brake banjo bolts from leaking fluid then I will be happy. I tried stat-o-seal washers and it still leaks. I noticed that the rebuilt calipers from Autozone have the banjo bolt washer mating surface sandblasted and I believe thats whats causing the leak. I think I will need to sandpaper that mating surface to reduce the roughness on it so it will seal correctly. Don't see anybody else giving tips on how to do such a procedure?
Great video. I'm getting ready to do this install on my TJ. I was curious though if used any lube or grease on the rocker arms during the install outside of what we saw in the video. I've watched several other installs where this method was used.
Thanks! I don't think we did. But, we should have to prevent galling. As long as its a quick start up getting the oil to the top of the engine there shouldn't be an issue. Good luck, thanks for checking out the vid!!
I watched a video from Moses Ludel saying these Jeeps (4.0 inline 6, for one) doesn’t allow for adjustments so a tool is required when doing this. He also named a couple of other times when it would be needed. It is to ensure we get the proper rod length. What is your opinion regarding this tool?
I have several manuals relating to the 4.0 and 2.5 Jeep engines. They all say to torque the rocker arms to a specific setting (not once a special tool was mentioned). I even looked in the legit service manual that Chrysler themselves use to service these engines ..... no tool was mentioned. What we demonstrated in the video is correct to Chrysler standards on a non-modified engine. That Jeep in the video still runs perfectly after the actions performed in this video. I found that video you mentioned. In that situation he mentions after a valve seat grind ... yes .. after a valve seat grind the tool is needed. I have one and I have used it on modified engines. An engine in stock configuration like the Jeep in this video, no tool needed.
I rewatched the video to remind myself. Yep, in the video it shows me and the fella that owns the Jeep replacing the rockers, pushrods, and the pivots.
Thank you for the video.... I just bought a 95 yj with 200k miles thats been maintained very well (receipts for everything and a milage history that notes miles towed -60k of those miles were towed) dating back to 78k miles). Can anyone point me to a video that might demonstrate the rattle? Not sure if i have this issue, and you I'm unsure if you're playing mind tricks on me and just the suggestion of this issue is making me THINK i hear it. Thanks and keep the videos coming!
We never did get the before and after sounds. It is a slight rattle that seems to come from the top of the engine. If I ever run across another engine making the sound I'll sure video it.
That would be the easiest way to start. Probably 95% of the time this fixes it. If it is still there after changing these parts, it is time for a new cam and lifters.
If the tick is coming from loose and worn out rockers then there is no need in replacing the lifters. Typically if you had bad lifters you would have more issues than just rattling a noise.
Fantastic video!!!! I definitely have this going on in my 89 YJ. It's got a '92 4.0 swapped in w/ about 90k miles, and for the first 82k of them, I'm unsure what maintenance was like before I got it. Huge thanks!
I have a stuck or burnt valve… I tried pulling the valve cover to run it to visually inspect and the engine runs away revving. Is that indicative of a stuck intake or exhaust valve?
Hi there. Went to check the amazon links you have for the rockers and push rods and both gone. Did you use a specific brand of rockers and rods? Terrific video. Thanks v.
I had to remove the links. Amazon changed some stuff around apparently making all the links invalid. The fella that owns the TJ just went to Autozone to get all the parts. Hope that helps!
It could definitely be the same parts changed in this video. As parts warm up they expand, therefore taking up the added clearances from the worn out parts.
Nope sure don't but many high mileage 4.0s and 2.5s have that lifter tap. He pulled in and we just got to work getting the parts swap done, we had a junk yard run to do that day.
hey there! you mentioned "you dont have to worry about cam/valve timing.. just take em off and put em back on.." Do you have to do any TDC or closed valve position? Or are they all just "remove and reinstall with torque spec"??
Remove and install making sure they are torqued properly. Really easy. Most Chrysler and Ford engines do not require doing TDC or valve position. GM engines do.
I just started using Royal purple in my 2002 Grand Cherokee 4.0 L...... It's a little more but it runs awesome at 257,000 miles and at a cooler temperature. Also a Mopar oil filter with check valve.
Experience from working on these engines. About 90% of the time its the parts we changed in this video. There are times that it has been the lifters but it isn't common. That engine hasn't rattles a bit since we changed those parts.
Could running it low of oil for a few seconds make top end rattle worse, mine knocks worse after it ran low of oil (my fault I used the wrong filter and I feel like a idiot now) not sure if its a new knock or it just made the top end rattle I already had worse. Fingers crossed it's till my top end
When doing the rocker arm/push rod replacement like you did in this video, did you also change out the lifters? I am personally experiencing the rattling and it gets quiet after the motor gets up to operating temperature. How far do you recomend going in on a job like that?
Nope, didn't do the lifters. He and I have talked about putting a hotter cam in it. Its his rig so I have no idea if that will ever happen. I personally would do just what we did in the video. Change pushrods, rockers, and the pivots. Changing cam and lifters is fairly involved job.
Question: All 24 of the lifters, 10 valve covers and a camshaft have been replaced on my 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Now it is reading codes for a IAT sensor that I will order today and for camshaft sensors. Research online says that a reprogramming is necessary for the camshaft sensors. Someone else told me the check engine light will go off after driving it so long. What do I need to do?
my engine is a 3.8 I want to know if this would be the same routine to switch the lifters on that engine since I can find videos that are specifically geared to 3.8 liter engines
Im from the south Georgia area, and I have a 1999 Tj with 130k on it and I have the same issue. What should I pay for a job like that? Thanks in advance. Over these last four years you've showed me so much from a distance.
I honestly have no idea. Most shop rates are about $150 an hour. Then they look in their book for the "billable shop hours" and multiply that times the amount they charge per hour. Also, most shops upcharge for parts as well. It makes me very happy to know these videos help people! Thats my main reason for doing this.
I've seen in other videos that guys are setting each cylinder to TDC before tightening down the rockers. Is this really necessary or am I good to just swap em out like you explained in the video?
It is necessary only on certain makes of engines like GM engines and some Fords. It is not necessary on the Jeep 4.0 or the 2.5. If it is a Jeep engine, do it like the video.
Sorry another question ....if I removed the push rods and rocker arms can I put them right back on or do i need to make sure it is at TDC before torqued?
I watched this video 4 times,,, bought the rocker arms, push rods and the Fel-pro gasket,,,did the job,,,now the tapping is gone. Thanks bro.
You are welcome!! Glad it helped!!
The only thing about the video that you forgot to do was start the engine up at the end and let us hear it versus how it sounded at the beginning
I was thinking the same thing. What’s it sound like now…..
Hell, he forgot to start it at the beginning to let us hear what it sounded like originally. 🤦♂️
@@stevee7774f you’re doing something as mechanically inclined as this, you would already know. I’d highly recommend you to go to a mechanic.
@@MeatPez - I’ve been a professional Auto Tech since the early nineties but I get your point. The problem is that many people watching these videos aren’t very mechanically inclined but they’re not gonna let that stop them. If you’re going to go to the trouble of making a video you should at least have before and after examples to illustrate a proper repair.
Because it sounded the same or worse
Absolutely wonderful instructional video for solving a problem that 99% of all TJ owners have; even down to torque lbs and gasket model. You hit on every necessary detail and made this engine repair within reach for us novices! Thanks for posting!!
Glad it helped
Not only TJ owners, maybe 4.0 engine owners, mine is YJ 95, same noise, same problem…
I got the 97 Cherokee with the 4.0! I was never into doing my own mechanic work on my vehicle, but I am learning just how much fun it is!!!
I built sooo many model cars as a kid. I grew up and so did my models 😀. I enjoy working on them and most of all building them up. Glad you are enjoying your new hobby! Hope the vids help you!
I recently purchased a 2000 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 and was dealt the cracked and dreadful cylinder head. This video had every step and every detail to complete the job.
Thank you
Cruz
Been playing with the 4.0 for years. You nailed it, Buddy! I have bought several jeeps CHEEP because the owner/dealer was afraid it was about to fail
Those 4.0s run FOREVER!! Even with valve train rattle. They are great engines! Have a great day!!
Great video!!! My XJ has 280000+ miles on it and I'm going to put stock ratio roller rockers in it. It still runs like a champ. I have the same valve cover gasket on mine. So far, the only major thing I've had to do on it, is change the cylinder head gasket in addition to the other gaskets.
Great video! Thanks to you, I pulled off the job no problem. After a BG109 engine flush and new plugs, Still had some unidentified ticking- thinking maybe lifters but then discovered slight exhaust leak on one of the flanges at the pre cat. Just thought maybe, for those interested, try tightening those bolts up first (booger to get to, but a wobble 15mm socket with extension did the trick) The forward flange bolts were a little loose and it worked like a charm. It just might solve that ticking noise before diving into the bigger project?? Regardless, really appreciate your awesome instructions as my engine has never sounded better!
I just finished this on a friend's 02 grand Cherokee with 140k miles. Absolutely solved the noise in the top end. Great video sir.
Thanks for the video. Swapped mine for the first time and dang seamless! Feels like a new ride with no clatter!
6 month update?
@@rottiesdad good so far.....but we've only put maybe a thousand miles on....we don't drive it much until summer.
Great video! Love that you even show people the basics like the appropriate way to use a torque wrench. Even to take tension off before storing it. Been using torque wrenches for 40 years and never really thought about the appropriate way to use them, even though I do everything you said. Not everyone has the wisdom that you share.
Always believed Fel-Pro gaskets over anything else aftermarket excellent job sir
Felpro oil pan and valve cover gaskets ALWAYS!! 👍 I've bought engine kits that come with some other brand valve cover and oil pan gasket. I'll go buy the Felpro Permatorque separately every time. Gaskets such as water pump and thermostat gaskets I'm not as picky.
You guys are legit for sure. Easy to understand very informative and you’re talking about the important specs and highlights of the task. Not a bunch of extra BS. Plus I can tell that you know from experience and time on the job not just saying shot to say it. Thanks , you are mechanic animals. Edit: I’m in Columbia just 35 miles south of y’all. No wonder I could understand you easy .. lol
I've been to Columbia several times! I love the old architecture of some of the area around town, Glad the video helped!! Have a great day!
My beloved 00 Xj brought me here. Had her 6yrs and she's usually been ok but this tick..got worse just yesterday. Appreciate the refresher!! Subd 🤘
Good video no hate love Jeep videos would have liked to listen to rattle issues before and after thanks 👍🏼
Thanks for the ending comment about the restoration of power, I have exactly that problem, I replaced the injectors, which helped but I also have a misfire code on cyl 3. The ticking is pretty bad. I'll check out the rocker arms. I have over 200k miles on the rebuilt head.
Literally the best detailed video I've ever seen. Thank you!
Check out NickInTimeFilms. Hos valve tick/lifter replacement/piston slap 3-part videos shoukd win an award.
I have a 2000 XJ Sport with the 4.0 6 cyl. I'm getting the rattle and a misfire on #5. I'm guessing and hoping this will do it. I got the jeep with 315k KMS (195k MILES) for $500 CDN ($395 USD) with no tires(owner bought it for the tires and sold it to me as a slider) in 2018. I sent it to Bakers 4X4 here in Ontario Canada and restored it with some body work/floor pans/rockers and I'm just crossing 320k KMS (198k MILES). The bonus is it came with a 6 inch RC lift. Thank you for the video and the PRO tips.
Fly fast shoot straight and never look back!
Great job! You've convinced me to do this to my '98 XJ. Very good camera work and straight to the point. Definitely one of the most helpful vids I've seen in quite a while. Keep up the good work!
Thanks! Glad the video helped!!
Had a lifter tick ,pulled the cover and watched the no.2 cyl exhaust bleed off fast so i loosened the rocker arm off then re tightened, no more tick I think the check ball was not seating, 100 miles and still no noise
Thanks Bruhda. I just slapped a reman in my 02 tj. It didn't pull like I thought it should. I'm a small block chevy shade tree mechanic. I was about to set TDC on every piston. Lol. Thanks for all your time an wisdom on the 4.0.
Thank you
I get that question a lot about having to set TDC for each cylinder. Ford and Chrysler/AMC, you don't have to worry about that. I've build a many small block and big block Chevy's so I totally understand what you are saying. You are welcome! Glad the video helped you!
Man you should get paid for this vid! Coincidence -- mine is very close to same as yours. Also 2000 TJ with 177k miles. Bought it new in 2000 and have taken good care of it. And alllll this time I've been putting up with that clicking, that's it? lol. I've been putting it off and dreading it, assuming I was gonna have to adjust everyone of those freaking valves! Your video probably just cut my time in half and saved me a lot of guess work. Now I already know what to buy so I can just buy everything first and have it ready. You made it look easy. Just hope mine goes that well. Thx a bunch!! By the looks of all these comments, it must be very common after around 20yrs/175K miles.
But on a scarey note......
On my job, I picked up an engine that had blown at 220K miles, that was also a 2000 4.0. Again, he bought his new and took care of it. He said it just simply wore out. #6 piston skirt just wore thru at the pin. So that may tell me what to expect in the future.
Glad the video helped you!! That is kinda rare for for the piston skirt issue. I have been building engines for MANY years .. thats rare for a normal wear that has been taken care of.
The only problem with tightening up the top (valves, rockers, push rods, lifters) is that the next weakest link is the rod bearings. Had a valve job done on a high mileage motor (300k+) wasn't more than 5k later and the rod bearing went. Lost power and started knocking and blowing smoke. Guy who did the valve job told me I should have done the bottom t the same time. I rolled the dice on it and lost. Great vid! God bless and stay well.
Bud, I dont know who told you that but they are wrong. I have been building engines since I was 15 years old. I'm 50 now. Tightening the rockers has NOTHING to do with the condition of the rod or main bearings. That engine had bigger issues to begin with if that happened.
@@Poweraddicts Made them the weakest link, I should have had him do the rods, mains and rings at the same time. Might still be driving that motor.
THANK YOU! This single mom is gonna tackle this job this weekend!!
You go for it!! I'm proud of ya for wanting to tackle that!!
@@Poweraddicts thanks!!
@@Poweraddicts SHE should do a video on it, right? :)
Love these AMC 6s and V8s; non adjustable lifters; so easy to work on; thanks; great video !!!!!!!!! Greatly maintained engine too; and Melling is an excellent quality part !!
I totally agree!!! Many of the Ford engines had non-adjustable lifters as well. Super easy!!!
Thank you for an excellent video. I learned a lot. You do an excellent job "de-mystifying projects in the Jeep! Saving me $$ on getting my old jeep fixed on a budget.
Ive watch this video 3 times by now, i have a similar issue, my rockers are loose i can wiggle them myself no matter how much i torque the bolts no change
Great video, really left no questions for me to ask.
That what I like to see! Glad the video helped!!
Thanks, now I’m ready for repair my YJ 95, same awesome engine…
You are welcome! Those are great little engines. Thanks for being part of the Power Addicts Crew!
My rockers are all tight on my 2.5, just rebuilt last night. It was a lot worse than it was now, I had them too tight, redoing them to the correct torque quieted it down but it still ticks
Thank you for the instructional video and the product recommendations. I plan on tackling this job with my son in a few months. We learned a lot.
You are very welcome! Glad it was helpful!
Those holes do no align with the push rods. No complications with that?
You NEVER loosen your torque wrench to the point you hear rattling inside the handle. NEVER. Reduce your wrench to the lowest torque setting on the handle markings. Been using micrometer style torque wrenches for 40 years and you absolutely will throw the calibration out of whack by turning the adjuster all the way out. Minimum torque setting on the scale is always recommended.
I knew there was a solution for this issue. Thanks
You are welcome!
Seems like a lot of these parts fit TON of years 4.0. I just got a 95 YJ, still catching up on it's maintenance. Prior your release of this video I just did the valve cover gasket. You know, I thought it was noisy in the rocker area. Man, wish I knew all this before. I also need to fixed my CAD, need to install new engine mounts, new exhaust header too. Previous owner kid did some poor work on this jeep. I'm going to check out your website.amd other videos. Thanks for your channel!
Great video with a lot of great detail and specs.
Thanks man now I’m about to spend 60 bucks on my shitbox 😂 great video brother👍🏼
Outstanding video - thanks for sharing your expertise and honors-level tips!
You are welcome. Glad you enjoyed it.
by color rocker arms different materials ? why and what.
Great video, I’m going to try this on my 4.0 Grand Cherokee that has a tick on start up. 66k miles.
Glad you like the video! Hope it helps your Grand Cherokee!
Just completed a full 1996 Grand Cherokee 4.0 rebuild at 191K miles. Much valve train wear due to using Castrol Syntec oil with no ZDDP anti-wear additive. Everything you changed we changed, but our machinist said the cam, lifters, and timing chain also were badly worn. The bottom edge of the lifters were worn down razor sharp where the new lifter had smooth round-over.
Did you use a bore scope to inspect the cam lobes for wear?
Nope, didn't look down in the lifters. There was some wear on the top end parts we took out but it wasn't anything alarming. You on the other hand have much more parts wear it seems. It may be time for a new cam and lifter kit for you.
@@Poweraddicts New cam, lifters, push rods, timing chain/gears, and oil pump are installed. New pistons, crank journals ground, new main bearings too. BTW - piston slap is what caused the noise in our 4.0L, especially #3 where the piston skirt on one side was close to cracking completely off.
can you update the links for the parts?
Pull the motor out of my 79 J10 EMC to 58
Six, rebuilt with a new parts Including top end kit. However now it sounds like a diesel. Thinking it could be the oil pump not circulating the oil properly. Any ideas? Appreciate your time and efforts.
What would cause A dead miss on A 1990 wrangler 4.2? We put new plugs and wires, adjusted the carburetor, it has new rotor and distributor cap. The compression is 2 psi above or below 125 on all 6 cylinders. It has loud pecking sound under the valve cover on what sounds like #3 cylinder. I wouldn't think the rocker wear would be enough to cause A dead miss, I could be wrong though.
Excellent instructions thank you. But after getting everything back together, no leaks and sounded great I started driving and would idle at 2000 rpms unless I shifted down and engine is running super hot (gauges are fine) throwing p2096 code. I’m trying to figure out how doing this has created this problem? Any thoughts?
Check the pcv valve, crank breather, and vacuum lines, sounds like it's sucking in air from somewhere.
I agree with @Gabriel Herrera. Sound like you have a vacuum leak somewhere.
Is it common for the new rocker arms to have a little play side to side after you torque them all down to 19ft pounds.
Awesome.. I'm swapping my head bc it's cracked. 0331 head. My concern was the rockers.. some say you have to cycle the motor and tighten each one at TDC, but you just torqued them as the set.
Some engines have a specific valve lash setting that can only be set by doing certain rockers at certain piston positions. Older GM engines you have to cycle the engine. Most older Ford and Chrysler engines you can just torque them down and roll.
Great vid bud. You should do a video on changing the lifters on the 4.0. thanks Chuck. Stay safe brother.
I've got an engine on the stand that's gonna get rebuilt. I can simulate swapping lifters on it. All the rigs I have access to right now are running great. If you're referring to top end valve rattle, most of the time it's the rocker arms and rocker arm pivots are worn out. The fella that owns the TJ that I did the rocker arm video on keeps talking about putting a high performance cam in his. If he does I know I'll get the video on that as well.
Good video Thanks !! just asking what was the noise the jeep making before you fixed it for referents
because I have a jeep making a noise up there!! but the oil was really old and black and thick
Best instructional video I've seen on youtube, & all the tips are great. It feels like I'm listening to a real experienced mechanic. Now if you can tell me how to get the brake banjo bolts from leaking fluid then I will be happy. I tried stat-o-seal washers and it still leaks. I noticed that the rebuilt calipers from Autozone have the banjo bolt washer mating surface sandblasted and I believe thats whats causing the leak. I think I will need to sandpaper that mating surface to reduce the roughness on it so it will seal correctly. Don't see anybody else giving tips on how to do such a procedure?
You tube search: spot facing a hole
I like the video. Im getting ready to fix my rocker arms
Great video. I'm getting ready to do this install on my TJ. I was curious though if used any lube or grease on the rocker arms during the install outside of what we saw in the video. I've watched several other installs where this method was used.
Thanks! I don't think we did. But, we should have to prevent galling. As long as its a quick start up getting the oil to the top of the engine there shouldn't be an issue. Good luck, thanks for checking out the vid!!
Soaking them all in motor oil over night before installation does a good job.
Where would you recommend getting these kits now because the Amazon links don't work anymore and I can't seem to find either on amazon
Any autoparts store can get you the parts
I watched a video from Moses Ludel saying these Jeeps (4.0 inline 6, for one) doesn’t allow for adjustments so a tool is required when doing this. He also named a couple of other times when it would be needed. It is to ensure we get the proper rod length. What is your opinion regarding this tool?
I have several manuals relating to the 4.0 and 2.5 Jeep engines. They all say to torque the rocker arms to a specific setting (not once a special tool was mentioned). I even looked in the legit service manual that Chrysler themselves use to service these engines ..... no tool was mentioned. What we demonstrated in the video is correct to Chrysler standards on a non-modified engine. That Jeep in the video still runs perfectly after the actions performed in this video.
I found that video you mentioned. In that situation he mentions after a valve seat grind ... yes .. after a valve seat grind the tool is needed. I have one and I have used it on modified engines. An engine in stock configuration like the Jeep in this video, no tool needed.
Awesome video and information. Especially the tips. Thanks for sharing.
I have a 88 yj that has a idle issue , when you push the accelerator all the way down it wants to hesitate.
Can you please repost the parts because the links are screwed bro
So you're replacing rockers and pushrods??
I rewatched the video to remind myself. Yep, in the video it shows me and the fella that owns the Jeep replacing the rockers, pushrods, and the pivots.
Thank you for the video.... I just bought a 95 yj with 200k miles thats been maintained very well (receipts for everything and a milage history that notes miles towed -60k of those miles were towed) dating back to 78k miles). Can anyone point me to a video that might demonstrate the rattle? Not sure if i have this issue, and you I'm unsure if you're playing mind tricks on me and just the suggestion of this issue is making me THINK i hear it.
Thanks and keep the videos coming!
We never did get the before and after sounds. It is a slight rattle that seems to come from the top of the engine. If I ever run across another engine making the sound I'll sure video it.
Outstanding instruction! Thank you
Glad you the video!! Thanks for dropping in!!
Thanks have to do mine 230,000 miles !!
I’m at 243k... how’d this go for you guys?
I have a 2.5 and I have tick that’s from the top end will solve my problem? Great info by the way. I’m going to take mine apart this weekend
That would be the easiest way to start. Probably 95% of the time this fixes it. If it is still there after changing these parts, it is time for a new cam and lifters.
So I fouled up and broke one of the bolts where can I get a replacement one? dealership said they are discontinued
I'll have to try this on my 4.2, thanks for the video!
Valve trains are pretty much the same so it should help.
Awesome, no nonsense, video!
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it!
So I take it that it’s not crucial to change out the lifters? Am I correct? Because I have a 2.5 doing the same thing.
If the tick is coming from loose and worn out rockers then there is no need in replacing the lifters. Typically if you had bad lifters you would have more issues than just rattling a noise.
New link for parts???
Fantastic video!!!! I definitely have this going on in my 89 YJ. It's got a '92 4.0 swapped in w/ about 90k miles, and for the first 82k of them, I'm unsure what maintenance was like before I got it. Huge thanks!
Luckily its not a difficult or crazy expensive job to address! Thanks, glad you like the video!!
Did you find a kit im looking for my 92 yj
It doesnt make a difference to torque them down while the valve is open /closed?
Nope, it doesn't matter at all.
Cool thanks 👌
When tightening the rocker bolts for the load have to be taken off ?
On these engines, just tighten to spec and done. You dont have to rotate the engine to take the load off.
Can I use this info and gasket on my 96 jeep grand Cherokee 4.0?
Who is your new helper? Looks like he did most the work.....🤔 Great video!!!
LOL !! He got skilz!!! Thanks!!
Can you adjust the valves on a 2000 jeep wrangler?
That is a 2000 model Jeep Wrangler in this video. In the video it was said that the valves are not adjustable.
So if they are loose and I get them tie back on… it will make difference or I really need a new rock arms ?
They are rattling because the bottom of the rocker arms are worn. Time to get new ones.
Would the 4.2 be similar process as in no backlash or clearance gap measurement?
The ones I've seen were like that.
I have a stuck or burnt valve… I tried pulling the valve cover to run it to visually inspect and the engine runs away revving. Is that indicative of a stuck intake or exhaust valve?
No need to top dead center cylinder 1 on exhuast stroke?
Nope, just torque as shown. Super easy !!
Awesome video, really appreciate the detail !
Hi there.
Went to check the amazon links you have for the rockers and push rods and both gone.
Did you use a specific brand of rockers and rods?
Terrific video. Thanks v.
I had to remove the links. Amazon changed some stuff around apparently making all the links invalid. The fella that owns the TJ just went to Autozone to get all the parts. Hope that helps!
I have a rattle in my 4.0 when I first start it up but once the engine warms up the sounds goes away, 160k miles, could it be rocker arms or lifters?
It could definitely be the same parts changed in this video. As parts warm up they expand, therefore taking up the added clearances from the worn out parts.
Really wish you had recorded it before you did the work. Do you have an older video with the noise prominent?
Nope sure don't but many high mileage 4.0s and 2.5s have that lifter tap. He pulled in and we just got to work getting the parts swap done, we had a junk yard run to do that day.
Hi, can you please fix this noise of my jeep 2.5?
Try changing the rockers, pivots, and push rods like in the video. If it is a rocker tick this should help.
hey there! you mentioned "you dont have to worry about cam/valve timing.. just take em off and put em back on.." Do you have to do any TDC or closed valve position? Or are they all just "remove and reinstall with torque spec"??
Remove and install making sure they are torqued properly. Really easy. Most Chrysler and Ford engines do not require doing TDC or valve position. GM engines do.
What’s your favorite oil for the Jeep 4.0?
I just started using Royal purple in my 2002 Grand Cherokee 4.0 L......
It's a little more but it runs awesome at 257,000 miles and at a cooler temperature. Also a Mopar oil filter with check valve.
How do you know the rattle is not from the lifters?
Experience from working on these engines. About 90% of the time its the parts we changed in this video. There are times that it has been the lifters but it isn't common. That engine hasn't rattles a bit since we changed those parts.
Thanks. Mine sounds like a diesel. I’ve got the parts, and thanks to your video I got this!
Could running it low of oil for a few seconds make top end rattle worse, mine knocks worse after it ran low of oil (my fault I used the wrong filter and I feel like a idiot now) not sure if its a new knock or it just made the top end rattle I already had worse. Fingers crossed it's till my top end
When doing the rocker arm/push rod replacement like you did in this video, did you also change out the lifters? I am personally experiencing the rattling and it gets quiet after the motor gets up to operating temperature. How far do you recomend going in on a job like that?
Nope, didn't do the lifters. He and I have talked about putting a hotter cam in it. Its his rig so I have no idea if that will ever happen. I personally would do just what we did in the video. Change pushrods, rockers, and the pivots. Changing cam and lifters is fairly involved job.
Me too. I figured bad lifter. Can u change lifters in this engine without pulling head?
@@dandahermitseals5582 unfortunately you have to remove the head. The holes are too small to fit the lifters throuhg.
Fantastic teaching 👍😊
Thank you very much!! Glad you think so!
The Amazon rocker arm link didn't work can you tell me the brand rockers you used
Do we need to put the engine in TDC?
Or do we just swap and torque to 19lbs as they are.
No Top Dead Center needed. Just torque them as they are. Thanks for checking out the video!
A kick-a!$ helpful video. Thank you. Really like the push rod quiz!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great information, thanks for sharing. A lot of this stuff you explained really well, nice job sir!
Glad you enjoyed it! You are welcome!! And thank you! :-)
Why not use roller rockers? Also, great video. Thank you for this.
To me roller rockers are a waste of money on these engines. Thanks, glad you enjoyed the video!
Question:
All 24 of the lifters, 10 valve covers and a camshaft have been replaced on my 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Now it is reading codes for a IAT sensor that I will order today and for camshaft sensors. Research online says that a reprogramming is necessary for the camshaft sensors. Someone else told me the check engine light will go off after driving it so long. What do I need to do?
my engine is a 3.8 I want to know if this would be the same routine to switch the lifters on that engine since I can find videos that are specifically geared to 3.8 liter engines
Did you bring every cylinder to TDC with valves closed before tightening the bolts? I see mixed information on this
Nope, that is not required for Chrysler and Ford. Just tighten and torque ... call it done.
Great video. Done really well.
Im from the south Georgia area, and I have a 1999 Tj with 130k on it and I have the same issue. What should I pay for a job like that? Thanks in advance. Over these last four years you've showed me so much from a distance.
I honestly have no idea. Most shop rates are about $150 an hour. Then they look in their book for the "billable shop hours" and multiply that times the amount they charge per hour. Also, most shops upcharge for parts as well. It makes me very happy to know these videos help people! Thats my main reason for doing this.
I've seen in other videos that guys are setting each cylinder to TDC before tightening down the rockers. Is this really necessary or am I good to just swap em out like you explained in the video?
It is necessary only on certain makes of engines like GM engines and some Fords. It is not necessary on the Jeep 4.0 or the 2.5. If it is a Jeep engine, do it like the video.
Sorry another question ....if I removed the push rods and rocker arms can I put them right back on or do i need to make sure it is at TDC before torqued?
Dont worry about top dead center. Just put them back on and torque to spec.