After first start, 20 minutes at 2500 to get the cam ZDDP adhering to the lobes, then hit the road, 20 3rd gear pulls from 2000-5000 rpm and coast down to 2000 and do it again. After that drive normal, oil change after first fifty miles, then at 500 miles, then normal. Thing uses no oil, and when taken apart there was no black between the first and second rings. Straight forward and it never fails.
20 minutes: at 2k Check vacuum. If in spec change the oil/filter. If not in spec inspect and run if assembled correctly. Bore scope the oil pan, strain the oil with a paint filter. Release fuel pressure at rail, pull fuel pump fuse, reprime, add fuse, start, run til thermostat opens at 2k rpm. Let the car idle from a stop so there is no lugging, then accelerate slowly in first gear until 2k rpm. Do easy pulls in first from 2k-5k, use engine braking. Do this until you feel the engine braking working harder (it might suck at first) Pulls (gentle) in 3rd from 2500-5k with engine breaking... feel free to drop the throttle quickly every time. Pulls in 5th from 2500-5k same as before Change the oil, check everything, reprime Drive normal for 250 miles, no redline, change oil to sythetic Dyno tune, red line, brap brap A little side note/something interesting... there are several engines that require the engine to sit at 4k rpm for 5 minutes to bleed the cooling system. How do you think these engines are broken in at the factory? 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤫🤫🤫🤫🤫🤫
That doesnt always work and is bad advice every build turns out differant i am not trying to argue but what works for some does not always work for someone else word to the wise i blew my first motor that was built that way in my 99 mustang gt
60k miles on a M42B18 rebuilt engine and I didn’t really do much of a break in. Covered cams in oil before I put the valve cover on, poured some down the timing chain, a little on the cylinder wall and it was fine. Drove around for 100 miles varying streets and highest speeds at 30-40, then 65, 70, 65, 75, 70, 80 mph. No burning oil, no issues after 60k miles
Followed this guide to a T two years ago when I first started up my tiny 1.6L VW motor w/ forged internals. It does not burn a drop and has an outstanding 260PSI across all four cylinders. Factory spec for new is 240 ;)
I built a trailblazer motor with red valvoline wheel bearing grease. I thought i had a tube of assembly grease and didn't realize i did it until 6 months after finishing the engine. It runs great with now 35,000 on the motor. Guess it didn't hurt anything and boy did i luck out....
Great video. Using this for my built N54 (first full motor build for me), currently at mile 300 of the 500 break-in interval. Stoked to get back on your dyno, nearly 5 years later, to see what it puts down!
One of the most complete and correct break in videos I've seen. Would like to see You do one on engine assembly. Prep. Cleaning. Assembly tips. Installation. Thank you again for your time and knowledge.
I saw a ring company say you want the break in oil during your 20 min anxiety fest. Something about the higher zinc, and if you get blowby you are doing more damage not using the thin specifically designed oil. After 25k of upgrades I'm good dumping $50 of oil.
I did my first oil change after my cam break in. Than put about 500 miles on my jeep just to be safe than started romping on it and playing with the tune. Been fine since. 2k miles later, still perfect.
It's always going to "be fine", pretty much no matter what we do. By the time gaskets, or something, start leaking - those engine components are long destroyed. It's not going to instantly show that we did everything wrong. :-$
Question, is ok for my motor to say stft 3, -6, 6, -8, 5? My ltft is saying the same thing, random and not stable. I've heard that it's supposed to vary but it's it by that much?
@@maperformance I tried everything, for background I bored it from 86mm bor to 86.5, everyone was telling me that it's ok it's just .5mm over. I had to take apart my motor again and there was so much carbon that the valves were imprinting into the carbon on the piston. Do you think that it could need tuned? I replaced fuel injectors, maf, ECU, wiring, even wasted time making a vacuum test with a bolt and rubber hose. I can't find anything to save my life.
Great video and tips on running in a rebuild engine. After the 500 miles run in does the engine head need to be tightened again especially allow heads like Honda?
Lolz. You immediately drive the car or put a load on it. If you idle or sit in place revving for the first 20 mins, your ring seal will be very subpar.
I have to break in my engine in a few days. Ideally I only want to rev it until my cooling system is bleed. Then hit the road and go through the rpm range carefully
I messed up my break in process on a datsun L20b rebuild by using synthetic oil, it glazed the cylinder walls and now I have to rehone and re-ring the pistons due to excessive blowby.
Correct me if I’m wrong lmao. But I’m pretty sure running normal oil to brake in the cam doesn’t heat treat it as well at all because there’s not much zink in it. Therefore it would increase the speed pitting occurs because the camshaft is soft.
I'm about halfway through building my Ford 302 and this is another topic I've been itching to know more about since it's such a critical step in this process. Raising the compression to about 10:1 static and 9.1 to 1 dynamic. New one valve relief pistons made of forged aluminum and AFR 185 enforcer cylinder heads. Should get about 400 horsepower on the high side and I'm just stoked to get it running!
When you say 20 min of break-in, do you mean literally rev the engine between 2k-3k with no load for 20 min? Or take it around the block for 20 min varying between 2k and 3k?
Mineral oil 20 min @ 2000-3000 rpm New break-in Oil 50 miles, vary loads, vacuum pulls, no WOT, no lugging, no high heat load New break-in Oil 500 miles New regular Oil All done
So AMG tells me to drive 1k miles under 85mph, no kick down, nothing over 4500rpm, but i see other ppl saying different things like running the engine 500 miles light with 2 oil changes and push it slightly for 500 more for proper seating
I just had my 193 Nissan Hardbody engine rebuilt. Starts right up when cold. Has a tough time turning over when starting hot. Mechanic says this will get better as the engine breaks in. Does that sound right?
this video seems kinda out dated. a lot of more science backed data shows using break in, specificly high zinc, break in is the right way on first start up. Lake Speed Jr has some very data back videos on this. hell even atf has been the cheap version of this not ocnventional.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>NEVER-EVER >>>>>Bring the oil PSI up with the starter on an OLDER motor (Pre roller years) - Or one with out roller rockers! You can flatten the cam befor you even get it started the first time!
This not how I break in my race engines at all. It hits a Dyno with break-in oil. Start it up, warm it up, oil temp 160. Right to full throttle to load the rings as hard as possible. Zero leak down. This break-in procedure seems like a great recipe for blow-by and reduced power.
Can the engine sound different while it’s wearing in? Ive had a used engine put in with half the miles of my original engine, exhaust was nice and deep before sounds a bit higher pitched making me think exhaust could be loose, but also there’s a ticking when I’m accelerating but goes after
I want to let you know but my 1970 Monte Carlo 454 break in periods is the same as my 2014 Corvette which is at 500 and 1500 miles and not over revving your engine
subaru owner - I put an oil pressure sensor on both the front and rear oil gallery . You can crank the motor without plugs/fuel/spark until you actually see like 50psi of pressure. (Obviously do not run starter motor for too long in 1 shot, but without compression it is not a lot of resistance). Also, a trick for Subaru oil priming is to crank the motor WITHOUT an oil filter until you see a small stream of oil coming out of the oil filter port (It should not be long, like 10-20 seconds). THEN add a pre-filled oil filter and crank again until you get oil pressure. This will get it primed and pumping more quickly.
Oops, my dad said that is a myth so I ran the piss out of it. 4.7 Jeep Grand Cherokee 2001. No wonder the looks from the mechanic. I romped on it straight away.
We broke in a Mazda V6 KLZE with a mild build on it. We did the first 30 minutes of idle and heat soaking the engine, then did a 50 mile break in on conventional Shell Rotella which is a truck oil for semis with a high zinc content. Then we switched over to Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w-20 and ran that 500 miles. Everything was golden. This is an engine that now has 12000 miles on it and some of those miles were full tilt track days and flat out top speed runs and it's fine. No oil usage, no metal in the oil, just a good all-around engine. We're going to use this video to swap in a fully built KLZE with MAPerformance parts! We bought a Precision turbo from you guys and once we get it broke in we're adding the turbo stuff. Shooting for 700whp it's going to be a riot.
Honestly every time i have had to break in a motor, i just drive like a grandpa on sunday morning. Just drive smooth but at the same time vary the rpm by manually downshifting or staying in a lower gear longer
Ik this video is a year old but I have a question about my build so its a fully built engine with a stage 2 turbo cam and will have a turbo on it since it is a NA car. Would I need a base tune before starting it up and breaking it in? What is the best approach in my situation?
I'm curious, has anyone investigated breaking in an engine by spinning it with an external electric motor without having to actually run it. Just add oil and crank it up with a big electric motor to provide the power. No fuel no spark plugs no exhaust. Maybe an external oil heater to get the oil to proper temperature. Seems to me it may be a good way to control parameters like temp, rpm. The whole point is to get the rings seated and sealing so why does it need to actually be running? Anyone ever hear of this being tried? Is is detrimental or superior to running it.
You probably want the higher cylinder pressures and vacuum and stuff to get all that going, plus you want the parts to expand to operating size in order for proper wear-in
^^ Not red-lining it, but also going to high revs and let the engine do the braking, by down-shifting also... It's to get it to settle at all sorts of temperatures.
For my fully built EJ25 I did 20 minutes - oil change. 50 miles under 30% no boost - oil change. 150 at 50-70% no boost oil change. Now I’m on normal oil at 200 miles and running 8-10 psi 50-70% throttle. 250 miles I’m sending it.
@@samkidder13 makes me feel better. Just rebuilt mine and I am 100% sure it put it together correctly but still have low oil pressure. I guess I will break it in and see what happens.
Running the engine on the spot is NOT going to make the rings seal, quiet the opposite, you need to drive and load the engine to push the rings into the bore to file them, this all happens in the first 30Km or 20 mins, after that you have lost your chance to make a proper ring seal. Also no solid bucket/lifter Jap engine requires break in on cam followers. Worst thing you can do to a new engine is idle it or run on the spot with out driving for 20-30mins.
how do you lose you chance to make a proper seal if you, lets say idle for 20 minutes then driv it, how will it file down the rings in the first 30km and after that not. why cant you take it easy first and then drive it, and then they will file down and make a seal. this is what i have always been wondering about when it comes to hard break in vs mild or whatever
@@hakkemohammed Because the crosshatch edges which file the rings will be dulled and not do any more filing, they will be dulled AND the rings will have been worn in a poor shape by running engine no load ie not sitting square on ring lands and out to shape of bore.
I have asked around and its funny how varying the advice is to breaking in a newly built engine. This one seems very logical...let it warm up, inspect for leaks, use a break-in oil to put it under real world load for 50'ish miles, drain, run new break-in for roughly 500 miles, drain and put in your synthetic oil of choice. Others have had zero issues running a warmup cycle for 20min on conventional oil, dropping in their preferred oil and just sending it without any issues. But why take the chance i guess? I have a 2.0l ecoboost out of my 2016 Focus ST that was big turbo, bent a rod at about 430whp. its rebuilt with all forged internals and is ready to fire up this week. I think Ill take the extra time and cost to do it like its laid out in this video. I'd rather not have to yank the engine out again just because i overlooked debris in my oil cooler or something
Hi. Can i please ask a question and get your opinion? I bought a brand new CF MOTO 450RS motorcycle and from new, gear changes were rough and it had vibrations. After the first service, the bike felt a lot worse, and engine was over heating sporadically. At 1400klm I realised when the dealer said that it was normal and I had taken the bike back 6 times, back to the dealer, I investigated the problem and found the dealer was filling the oil to below the empty level. When I toped up the oil, it took 750ml to get it to the full line. That's 1/3rd oil missing since new. In the cf moto user manual it states that the oil should only be filled to below the low line, but in doesn't say if this when the bike is on the side stand or upright on a service stand. Turns out they were filling it up on the service stand in the upright, and those instructions were for the bike being on the side stand. So dealer was filling my bike and some others short of oil. Engine now sounds rough compared to new bike and I am hearing a slight ratting sound. Can you please tell me, during this crucial run in period, what is the potential damage to the engine and gear box? I think during the crucial 1000klm run in, period not having enough oil to meet even the bottom line of the low😊 indicator mark would have caused damage, but dealer said no, it's o.k..
Great video!!! I sure learned a lot. Now a concerning question: Some of the engine remanufacturers only recommend that we use conventional for entire first 1500 miles of break-in period. I like to know why do you suppose that is? And what's your take on that. Thank you!🙂
WORTHLESS for non-roller cammed engines!!!...if you use a regular cheap oil on a flat tappet camshaft, YOU WILL WIPE IT!!.....you should have calrified, that your recomendations are for a ROLLER motor, NO FLAT TAPPET CAM WILL SURVIVE WITH OUT HIGH ZINC (ZDDP) OIL!!!.....dis-service to flat tappet engine builders
Doing my very first engine build/rebuild on my 4.6 4v Cobra. I'm just getting parts in, so it's a long road, but is exciting. Man I just hope she's lives a long happy life. Hopefully the new tools, and probably hundreds of hours of research and learning pays off. Lol
I did 1200 miles on my new engine, not going over 4k rpms. It felt fine but for some reason it feels like everything has settled in more after I did a few redline pulls
A lot of good pointers here. Very relevant for me as i'm starting my first fully built 4g63 in a few days. The only conflicting info I hear everywhere is the intervals of the initial oil changes. Many are saying it's not necessary to change the oil after the first 20 minutes, and that it's good for the first 100 miles. Where you would then switch to your oil of choice. It's the first hour or so of driving where the crosshatching files the rings (metal shavings) and seats them. Correct me if i'm wrong, but it seems that all the contamination is going to happen over that first drive, not upon startup? Wouldn't it make sense to use break in oil up until 100 miles, then do an oil and filter change until the car hits 500 miles, where it would be done again?
RPM of my new car always below 2000 (generally around 1500 while driving at 100km/hr). Do I need to push little hard to rev it between 2000 and 4000? How do we know the idea RPM range for a breakin period of a specific car? I am driving Hyundai Santa Fe 2022 2.2D Diesel.
I also oiled the backs of all the bearings in my first rebuild, worked perfectly until few 1000 km later the drain plug somehow came loose, you know the rest XD
So if I buy conventional oil and just use it to clean my engine that's fine?. There's no extra steps after that right? Just put the oil in drive 20 or 30 clicks at a slower past then change it back to the oil I had in it be for?
ok so basically i finished my break in period drove normally for a week then took a car for one very intense run on highway next day it started knocking like hell bearing is pretty much not existant
Hey, btw., it's also while operating the vehicle, always... Don't keep the clutch pedal pressed in for long, when not needed. Most, if not all vehicles don't like it.
Cheap oils will still have friction modifiers and detergents in it. Stick with running in oil which doesn’t have those additives but does have high zinc.
I know this video is older so idk if I'll get a reply. But I have just first fired my built engine. However it's a full drag car running on c85. So my question is... since I can't drive it. And dyno day is two weeks away, what's a good way to get it ready without being able to drive the car on the street.
Typically Tune shops can send you a base tune for you to drive around on. I recommend finding a tuner that can get you a decent base tune, that way you can put miles on everything.
@@maperformance i have the base, i can start it and pull in and out of the trailer, but i cant drive on teh streets, there is nothing legal, its mostly fiberglass, and no tags. thats my issue, lastly, it ahs a 1.5gal fuel cell, so miles per gallon arent an option as well.
Just got my 347 stroker ford v8 (in a1960 british ford zodiac kustom hot rod) build through its cam break in, oil change and first 200 miles. I put comp cams break in oil additive in with the first sump of cheap mineral oil to try and give the new cam its best chances. Then after 30 mins at 2,000 to 2,500 rpm to splash lube the cam properly, drained and refilled with 10/30 comp break in oil. I don't normally worry too much if its a customers engine at work I've had in bits but on my own £2,000+ investment it just makes me feel uneasy and hypersensitive to any noises. I think I more enjoy builds like my drift car where its just a scrapyard engine transplant that even if it threw a rod out I can replace the whole engine for £300. Built the drift car and immediately dynod it and then took to the track without any worries. (saab b204 rear wheel drive spaceframed Ford mondeo eurocar. 840 kilos wet. 296 hp with slightly bigger turbo and a remap. Completely stock engine.)
If my built motor starts using more oil than OEM I've got a problem bc my current OEM burns a good amount of oil. Also, a side note, does strengthing up my OEM motor count as a built motor if I'm replacing everything but the things like the crankcase and cylinder head?
A rebuilt motor, if done right, should fix oil consumption issues. A built motor usually equates to replacing OEM components with stronger aftermarket parts that create more power.
Typically at 500 miles you should still be city driving (low-mid rpm range). Usually don't want to go WOT until about 1000 miles. It all depends on the motor and tune though. Talking with your tuner about your specific setup is the safest route.
I just built my firs engine, b20vtec and as of this coming Saturday I will be doing my first start up. I’m extremely nervous that something could go wrong but I am hoping for the best. 🤞🏼hope it turns out good for me after investing a lot of money, time and scars into this built🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🤞🏼🤞🏼..
No when the change the injector size it will run extremely rich because the computer still thinks ur running the smaller injector so the same size pulse sends more fuel than it thinks
![Engine Break-In Myths Dispelled | Engine Break-In Tips And Tricks [GOLD WEBINAR]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5Ruk6GLJgbA/mqdefault.jpg)
Tell us your experience with breaking in new motors 🤘
why no mention if you should drive it hard early on or not?
After first start, 20 minutes at 2500 to get the cam ZDDP adhering to the lobes, then hit the road, 20 3rd gear pulls from 2000-5000 rpm and coast down to 2000 and do it again. After that drive normal, oil change after first fifty miles, then at 500 miles, then normal. Thing uses no oil, and when taken apart there was no black between the first and second rings. Straight forward and it never fails.
20 minutes: at 2k
Check vacuum. If in spec change the oil/filter. If not in spec inspect and run if assembled correctly. Bore scope the oil pan, strain the oil with a paint filter.
Release fuel pressure at rail, pull fuel pump fuse, reprime, add fuse, start, run til thermostat opens at 2k rpm.
Let the car idle from a stop so there is no lugging, then accelerate slowly in first gear until 2k rpm.
Do easy pulls in first from 2k-5k, use engine braking. Do this until you feel the engine braking working harder (it might suck at first)
Pulls (gentle) in 3rd from 2500-5k with engine breaking... feel free to drop the throttle quickly every time.
Pulls in 5th from 2500-5k same as before
Change the oil, check everything, reprime
Drive normal for 250 miles, no redline, change oil to sythetic
Dyno tune, red line, brap brap
A little side note/something interesting... there are several engines that require the engine to sit at 4k rpm for 5 minutes to bleed the cooling system. How do you think these engines are broken in at the factory? 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤫🤫🤫🤫🤫🤫
I would just baby it until u hit 500 and dont forget to change the oil as needed per miles driven
That doesnt always work and is bad advice every build turns out differant i am not trying to argue but what works for some does not always work for someone else word to the wise i blew my first motor that was built that way in my 99 mustang gt
Who just got a new engine lol
Me🙋🏽♂️ haha
Me lol, brand new fully built LNF ecotec with s257sxe
Ford 289 for my classic Mercury with some fun bits, firing up today
Me. Building my jdm ej205.
Me just got new engine for my 2016 sti with a gtx4088r turbo and not sure if I could start it and run it for 20 min cuz it has 2200cc injectors
I have been researching this topic for a while and amazed how different the advice is!
Right!
60k miles on a M42B18 rebuilt engine and I didn’t really do much of a break in. Covered cams in oil before I put the valve cover on, poured some down the timing chain, a little on the cylinder wall and it was fine. Drove around for 100 miles varying streets and highest speeds at 30-40, then 65, 70, 65, 75, 70, 80 mph. No burning oil, no issues after 60k miles
Followed this guide to a T two years ago when I first started up my tiny 1.6L VW motor w/ forged internals. It does not burn a drop and has an outstanding 260PSI across all four cylinders. Factory spec for new is 240 ;)
Woot woot!! Dude that's incredible to hear.
I built a trailblazer motor with red valvoline wheel bearing grease. I thought i had a tube of assembly grease and didn't realize i did it until 6 months after finishing the engine. It runs great with now 35,000 on the motor. Guess it didn't hurt anything and boy did i luck out....
Great video. Using this for my built N54 (first full motor build for me), currently at mile 300 of the 500 break-in interval. Stoked to get back on your dyno, nearly 5 years later, to see what it puts down!
Sounds great! Good luck!
How did it turn out I have a n55 I built and I’m tryna see what would be good for the bmw
One of the most complete and correct break in videos I've seen.
Would like to see You do one on engine assembly.
Prep. Cleaning. Assembly tips. Installation.
Thank you again for your time and knowledge.
I saw a ring company say you want the break in oil during your 20 min anxiety fest. Something about the higher zinc, and if you get blowby you are doing more damage not using the thin specifically designed oil. After 25k of upgrades I'm good dumping $50 of oil.
I did my first oil change after my cam break in. Than put about 500 miles on my jeep just to be safe than started romping on it and playing with the tune. Been fine since. 2k miles later, still perfect.
It's always going to "be fine", pretty much no matter what we do. By the time gaskets, or something, start leaking - those engine components are long destroyed. It's not going to instantly show that we did everything wrong. :-$
Personally i fire it up and beat on it never had a problem. Supermoto break in procedure! To each there own
Right, "no problem" until the next owner. ;)
Instructions unclear, pistons and rods now outside of the engine .
Question, is ok for my motor to say stft 3, -6, 6, -8, 5? My ltft is saying the same thing, random and not stable. I've heard that it's supposed to vary but it's it by that much?
Yeah that definitely is a little too much variation. It's normal for those to move around but not usually that much.
@@maperformance I tried everything, for background I bored it from 86mm bor to 86.5, everyone was telling me that it's ok it's just .5mm over. I had to take apart my motor again and there was so much carbon that the valves were imprinting into the carbon on the piston. Do you think that it could need tuned? I replaced fuel injectors, maf, ECU, wiring, even wasted time making a vacuum test with a bolt and rubber hose. I can't find anything to save my life.
Should you change the oil filter along with the oil on all these initial oil changes
Great video and tips on running in a rebuild engine. After the 500 miles run in does the engine head need to be tightened again especially allow heads like Honda?
Lolz.
You immediately drive the car or put a load on it.
If you idle or sit in place revving for the first 20 mins, your ring seal will be very subpar.
I have to break in my engine in a few days. Ideally I only want to rev it until my cooling system is bleed. Then hit the road and go through the rpm range carefully
I messed up my break in process on a datsun L20b rebuild by using synthetic oil, it glazed the cylinder walls and now I have to rehone and re-ring the pistons due to excessive blowby.
Correct me if I’m wrong lmao. But I’m pretty sure running normal oil to brake in the cam doesn’t heat treat it as well at all because there’s not much zink in it. Therefore it would increase the speed pitting occurs because the camshaft is soft.
I'm about halfway through building my Ford 302 and this is another topic I've been itching to know more about since it's such a critical step in this process. Raising the compression to about 10:1 static and 9.1 to 1 dynamic. New one valve relief pistons made of forged aluminum and AFR 185 enforcer cylinder heads. Should get about 400 horsepower on the high side and I'm just stoked to get it running!
When you say 20 min of break-in, do you mean literally rev the engine between 2k-3k with no load for 20 min? Or take it around the block for 20 min varying between 2k and 3k?
Correct, no load for that first step.
WHATS UP
Mineral oil
20 min @ 2000-3000 rpm
New break-in Oil
50 miles, vary loads, vacuum pulls, no WOT, no lugging, no high heat load
New break-in Oil
500 miles
New regular Oil
All done
So AMG tells me to drive 1k miles under 85mph, no kick down, nothing over 4500rpm, but i see other ppl saying different things like running the engine 500 miles light with 2 oil changes and push it slightly for 500 more for proper seating
I just had my 193 Nissan Hardbody engine rebuilt. Starts right up when cold. Has a tough time turning over when starting hot. Mechanic says this will get better as the engine breaks in. Does that sound right?
this video seems kinda out dated. a lot of more science backed data shows using break in, specificly high zinc, break in is the right way on first start up. Lake Speed Jr has some very data back videos on this. hell even atf has been the cheap version of this not ocnventional.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>NEVER-EVER >>>>>Bring the oil PSI up with the starter on an OLDER motor (Pre roller years) - Or one with out roller rockers!
You can flatten the cam befor you even get it started the first time!
This not how I break in my race engines at all.
It hits a Dyno with break-in oil.
Start it up, warm it up, oil temp 160.
Right to full throttle to load the rings as hard as possible.
Zero leak down.
This break-in procedure seems like a great recipe for blow-by and reduced power.
living in a country where you can take a freshly built car immediately onto the road sounds lovely.
Can the engine sound different while it’s wearing in? Ive had a used engine put in with half the miles of my original engine, exhaust was nice and deep before sounds a bit higher pitched making me think exhaust could be loose, but also there’s a ticking when I’m accelerating but goes after
I want to let you know but my 1970 Monte Carlo 454 break in periods is the same as my 2014 Corvette which is at 500 and 1500 miles and not over revving your engine
Holla holla holla holla holla holla holla hollla at me holla at me holla at me holla holla holla holla holla -that one guy on Chappelle's Show
subaru owner - I put an oil pressure sensor on both the front and rear oil gallery . You can crank the motor without plugs/fuel/spark until you actually see like 50psi of pressure. (Obviously do not run starter motor for too long in 1 shot, but without compression it is not a lot of resistance). Also, a trick for Subaru oil priming is to crank the motor WITHOUT an oil filter until you see a small stream of oil coming out of the oil filter port (It should not be long, like 10-20 seconds). THEN add a pre-filled oil filter and crank again until you get oil pressure. This will get it primed and pumping more quickly.
This is all too much dude
@@hjer731 not really.
Oops, my dad said that is a myth so I ran the piss out of it. 4.7 Jeep Grand Cherokee 2001. No wonder the looks from the mechanic. I romped on it straight away.
We broke in a Mazda V6 KLZE with a mild build on it. We did the first 30 minutes of idle and heat soaking the engine, then did a 50 mile break in on conventional Shell Rotella which is a truck oil for semis with a high zinc content. Then we switched over to Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w-20 and ran that 500 miles. Everything was golden. This is an engine that now has 12000 miles on it and some of those miles were full tilt track days and flat out top speed runs and it's fine. No oil usage, no metal in the oil, just a good all-around engine.
We're going to use this video to swap in a fully built KLZE with MAPerformance parts! We bought a Precision turbo from you guys and once we get it broke in we're adding the turbo stuff. Shooting for 700whp it's going to be a riot.
Your break-in procedure is very clear and concise. Excellent job. I will use yours to break in my rebuilt Miata. Thks
Awesome, thank you! Good luck!
You are amazing guys ...you've done a great job, keep on the good work
greetings from Egypt
Honestly every time i have had to break in a motor, i just drive like a grandpa on sunday morning. Just drive smooth but at the same time vary the rpm by manually downshifting or staying in a lower gear longer
Ik this video is a year old but I have a question about my build so its a fully built engine with a stage 2 turbo cam and will have a turbo on it since it is a NA car. Would I need a base tune before starting it up and breaking it in? What is the best approach in my situation?
Base tune with the motor alone first is best because you don’t want any metal going into the turbo maybe put it on after the 500 mile mark
Do you do this same process for new factory car engines?
FFS turn the stupid music down, unwatchable.
So by letting the engine slow u down u just let off the gas??
I'm curious, has anyone investigated breaking in an engine by spinning it with an external electric motor without having to actually run it. Just add oil and crank it up with a big electric motor to provide the power. No fuel no spark plugs no exhaust. Maybe an external oil heater to get the oil to proper temperature. Seems to me it may be a good way to control parameters like temp, rpm. The whole point is to get the rings seated and sealing so why does it need to actually be running? Anyone ever hear of this being tried? Is is detrimental or superior to running it.
You probably want the higher cylinder pressures and vacuum and stuff to get all that going, plus you want the parts to expand to operating size in order for proper wear-in
Combustion pressure is essential to provide the necessary pressure to force the rings out against the cylinder walls.
Does this apply for a Honda b series
What if in my case that the car isnt a street legal racecar?
I can't relate since I'm on a stock motor 😂 but what i did when i bought it brand new was not rev it more than 3-4k for the first 500-600 miles
JustCallMeDope piston rings need to seat, factory motors are set wide open for 25 mins. Babying it won’t help
@@LS3.4DR i was a lil surprised this vid didnt cover this well.... he just said "varying revs"
@@welcometoreality3450 He said varying Rpms between 2-3 thousand so i'd assume he just means regular town driving and not leaning on it hard.
^^ Not red-lining it, but also going to high revs and let the engine do the braking, by down-shifting also... It's to get it to settle at all sorts of temperatures.
For my fully built EJ25 I did 20 minutes - oil change. 50 miles under 30% no boost - oil change. 150 at 50-70% no boost oil change. Now I’m on normal oil at 200 miles and running 8-10 psi 50-70% throttle. 250 miles I’m sending it.
Did it blow up or still going with that psi?
@@thetotlpkg 5500 on the motor. Finished tune running 20psi. Car feels great
@@samkidder13 makes me feel better. Just rebuilt mine and I am 100% sure it put it together correctly but still have low oil pressure. I guess I will break it in and see what happens.
What if you haven't got a tune yet?
Running the engine on the spot is NOT going to make the rings seal, quiet the opposite, you need to drive and load the engine to push the rings into the bore to file them, this all happens in the first 30Km or 20 mins, after that you have lost your chance to make a proper ring seal. Also no solid bucket/lifter Jap engine requires break in on cam followers. Worst thing you can do to a new engine is idle it or run on the spot with out driving for 20-30mins.
how do you lose you chance to make a proper seal if you, lets say idle for 20 minutes then driv it, how will it file down the rings in the first 30km and after that not. why cant you take it easy first and then drive it, and then they will file down and make a seal. this is what i have always been wondering about when it comes to hard break in vs mild or whatever
@@hakkemohammed Because the crosshatch edges which file the rings will be dulled and not do any more filing, they will be dulled AND the rings will have been worn in a poor shape by running engine no load ie not sitting square on ring lands and out to shape of bore.
99999timmy you make no sense.
@@mareksumguy1887 sorry to say but timmy is 100% correct
rbpaul111 no he’s not. His explanation was garbage.
After those 500 mile break in, now i can tune the car to 20-25psi? or i need to go up gradually?
Once the rings are seated and you have proper oil in it just go for it.
About to break in my 477ci BBF tomorrow
Well 6al and dizzy probs changed that 😢
Great info guys 👍
First step dont put the oil pressure sensor in ... done now your good to start it
I have asked around and its funny how varying the advice is to breaking in a newly built engine.
This one seems very logical...let it warm up, inspect for leaks, use a break-in oil to put it under real world load for 50'ish miles, drain, run new break-in for roughly 500 miles, drain and put in your synthetic oil of choice. Others have had zero issues running a warmup cycle for 20min on conventional oil, dropping in their preferred oil and just sending it without any issues. But why take the chance i guess?
I have a 2.0l ecoboost out of my 2016 Focus ST that was big turbo, bent a rod at about 430whp. its rebuilt with all forged internals and is ready to fire up this week. I think Ill take the extra time and cost to do it like its laid out in this video. I'd rather not have to yank the engine out again just because i overlooked debris in my oil cooler or something
Hi. Can i please ask a question and get your opinion? I bought a brand new CF MOTO 450RS motorcycle and from new, gear changes were rough and it had vibrations. After the first service, the bike felt a lot worse, and engine was over heating sporadically. At 1400klm I realised when the dealer said that it was normal and I had taken the bike back 6 times, back to the dealer, I investigated the problem and found the dealer was filling the oil to below the empty level. When I toped up the oil, it took 750ml to get it to the full line. That's 1/3rd oil missing since new.
In the cf moto user manual it states that the oil should only be filled to below the low line, but in doesn't say if this when the bike is on the side stand or upright on a service stand. Turns out they were filling it up on the service stand in the upright, and those instructions were for the bike being on the side stand. So dealer was filling my bike and some others short of oil.
Engine now sounds rough compared to new bike and I am hearing a slight ratting sound. Can you please tell me, during this crucial run in period, what is the potential damage to the engine and gear box? I think during the crucial 1000klm run in, period not having enough oil to meet even the bottom line of the low😊 indicator mark would have caused damage, but dealer said no, it's o.k..
Hey mate,
Which oil for the first 20-30 when starting the car
And which oil from 0-500km
500-1000km?
Cheers
wow....Summit Racing says to not change over to Synthetic Oil until 5000 Miles are reached ...you guys say only 500 miles ?????
Great video!!!
I sure learned a lot. Now a concerning question: Some of the engine remanufacturers only recommend that we use conventional for entire first 1500 miles of break-in period. I like to know why do you suppose that is? And what's your take on that.
Thank you!🙂
WORTHLESS for non-roller cammed engines!!!...if you use a regular cheap oil on a flat tappet camshaft, YOU WILL WIPE IT!!.....you should have calrified, that your recomendations are for a ROLLER motor, NO FLAT TAPPET CAM WILL SURVIVE WITH OUT HIGH ZINC (ZDDP) OIL!!!.....dis-service to flat tappet engine builders
Doing my very first engine build/rebuild on my 4.6 4v Cobra. I'm just getting parts in, so it's a long road, but is exciting. Man I just hope she's lives a long happy life. Hopefully the new tools, and probably hundreds of hours of research and learning pays off. Lol
I did 1200 miles on my new engine, not going over 4k rpms. It felt fine but for some reason it feels like everything has settled in more after I did a few redline pulls
A lot of good pointers here. Very relevant for me as i'm starting my first fully built 4g63 in a few days. The only conflicting info I hear everywhere is the intervals of the initial oil changes. Many are saying it's not necessary to change the oil after the first 20 minutes, and that it's good for the first 100 miles. Where you would then switch to your oil of choice. It's the first hour or so of driving where the crosshatching files the rings (metal shavings) and seats them. Correct me if i'm wrong, but it seems that all the contamination is going to happen over that first drive, not upon startup? Wouldn't it make sense to use break in oil up until 100 miles, then do an oil and filter change until the car hits 500 miles, where it would be done again?
RPM of my new car always below 2000 (generally around 1500 while driving at 100km/hr). Do I need to push little hard to rev it between 2000 and 4000? How do we know the idea RPM range for a breakin period of a specific car? I am driving Hyundai Santa Fe 2022 2.2D Diesel.
I changed my water pump timing chains guides and tensioners on a 3.5 L ford....is there a break in for just timing components
Guy who built my 3.6 pentastar told me to run mineral oil for first 1000 miles and then put synthetic. Nothing else😅
I also oiled the backs of all the bearings in my first rebuild, worked perfectly until few 1000 km later the drain plug somehow came loose, you know the rest XD
So if I buy conventional oil and just use it to clean my engine that's fine?. There's no extra steps after that right? Just put the oil in drive 20 or 30 clicks at a slower past then change it back to the oil I had in it be for?
Which mineral oil to use at first- viscosity? Will be breaking in my cobalt SS 2.0l turbo LNF engine in couple days...
MMR says to run the engine for 6000 miles...yes 6000 miles! Before going synthetic...seems excessive if not BS.
What is a Good air fuel ratio for break in
Target AFR for almost any motor should be about 14.6
Im going to be installing a 5.7 hemi and I was wondering what oils should I use to break it in my engine calls for 5w20.
We don't have much experience with those mopar engines, but I am sure there is a ton of information on the forums/FB groups on those cars!
Did you ever figure it out. I have a 4th gen ram that just had a reman engine put in so I'm kinda scared to tear it up before it's broke in
ok so basically i finished my break in period drove normally for a week then took a car for one very intense run on highway next day it started knocking like hell
bearing is pretty much not existant
What happens if you don’t prime?
No lubrication of all parts which will be turning metal on metal.
I saw on one of RHD Kev's videos that he didn't press the clutch on his brand new engine. Something with thrust bearings. Can you elaborate?
helps prevent crank walk, lots of guys bypass the neutral safety switch
TunerBattle hey yeah I never thought of that.
Hey, btw., it's also while operating the vehicle, always... Don't keep the clutch pedal pressed in for long, when not needed. Most, if not all vehicles don't like it.
Cheap oils will still have friction modifiers and detergents in it. Stick with running in oil which doesn’t have those additives but does have high zinc.
So If I already had stage 2+ tune with e85 with FBO should I keep the tune during thr first 500 miles break in and tune it later?
Yed
I know this video is older so idk if I'll get a reply. But I have just first fired my built engine. However it's a full drag car running on c85. So my question is... since I can't drive it. And dyno day is two weeks away, what's a good way to get it ready without being able to drive the car on the street.
Typically Tune shops can send you a base tune for you to drive around on. I recommend finding a tuner that can get you a decent base tune, that way you can put miles on everything.
@@maperformance i have the base, i can start it and pull in and out of the trailer, but i cant drive on teh streets, there is nothing legal, its mostly fiberglass, and no tags. thats my issue, lastly, it ahs a 1.5gal fuel cell, so miles per gallon arent an option as well.
after the 50 mile break-in can you take it on the highway for the 500 miles or still stay with city driving for the 500 miles
Map performance is sick i evo 8 swapped my 3g thanks to them
Thanks John!!
Me and my boy are gonna drive about 2k miles slow to make sure it’s broken in
I just assembled a K24 Hybrid, geared for boost. I enjoy looking at RealSt, DSPORT, MAPerformance videos on this topic 🤙
If it’s a Subaru take it all apart again before the break in is completed…
Just got my 347 stroker ford v8 (in a1960 british ford zodiac kustom hot rod) build through its cam break in, oil change and first 200 miles. I put comp cams break in oil additive in with the first sump of cheap mineral oil to try and give the new cam its best chances. Then after 30 mins at 2,000 to 2,500 rpm to splash lube the cam properly, drained and refilled with 10/30 comp break in oil. I don't normally worry too much if its a customers engine at work I've had in bits but on my own £2,000+ investment it just makes me feel uneasy and hypersensitive to any noises. I think I more enjoy builds like my drift car where its just a scrapyard engine transplant that even if it threw a rod out I can replace the whole engine for £300. Built the drift car and immediately dynod it and then took to the track without any worries. (saab b204 rear wheel drive spaceframed Ford mondeo eurocar. 840 kilos wet. 296 hp with slightly bigger turbo and a remap. Completely stock engine.)
I just sleeved my motor and is ready to to put it in back in and actually break it in right
Great stuff! Thanks for the tips!
Can I drive for 25 miles and next day 25 to complete 50 miles
Any special considerations for a jeep 4.7l stroker engine?
Hi I got my short block back from getting forged internal I’m going to be storing it for 6 months what’s the best to store it
So contradictory to what most other reputable builders say to do with a fresh build.
why does my engine need to be driven 4800 km to be fully broken in before i can dyno it ?
If my built motor starts using more oil than OEM I've got a problem bc my current OEM burns a good amount of oil.
Also, a side note, does strengthing up my OEM motor count as a built motor if I'm replacing everything but the things like the crankcase and cylinder head?
A rebuilt motor, if done right, should fix oil consumption issues. A built motor usually equates to replacing OEM components with stronger aftermarket parts that create more power.
We dont need to check for safety. Just get to the break in please.
Who besides me came here to this good video but actually needs a new engine??
any difference if it is an Atkinson motor on a hybrid?
Can I use conventional oil instead of engine brake in oil or it has to be brake in oil thanks
💪💪🔥🔥this very helpful an I haven’t even finished the video yet . 🙌
At 500 miles when covering this. Do you need to also vary the engine Rpm
or you can do a wide throttle opening
Typically at 500 miles you should still be city driving (low-mid rpm range). Usually don't want to go WOT until about 1000 miles. It all depends on the motor and tune though. Talking with your tuner about your specific setup is the safest route.
I just built my firs engine, b20vtec and as of this coming Saturday I will be doing my first start up. I’m extremely nervous that something could go wrong but I am hoping for the best. 🤞🏼hope it turns out good for me after investing a lot of money, time and scars into this built🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🤞🏼🤞🏼..
Did it blow? I'm betting it didn't..
What happens if you have changed the injector size and cams and bored it large. Should I still start it before I take it to the tuner
No when the change the injector size it will run extremely rich because the computer still thinks ur running the smaller injector so the same size pulse sends more fuel than it thinks
Great Video: Thanks! Now show me how to burn in a new camshaft without hurting my new engine. Or, is that's just old school?