2007 Audi A4 2.0t, installing the cams for my big turbo build. Camshaft Adjuster socket, www.ecstuning.... Cam locking tool, www.ecstuning.... Cam Adjuster bolt, www.ecstuning....
The silicon job is Bullshit!!! Why have to put silicon in the oil chanel????! If somebody follow this way, after some hundred kilometers have to start again the head repair !!!
Audi is all about special tools, I bought the tool to rotate the intake cam on ebay for 12usd. Worth every penny since I have had to do this job 2 times on my 07 A4.
good video .. all i will add is 99% of guys will be doing this on the car and on the Audi you can not see behind .. so paint the teeth you need where the dot and slot are , and paint the front side of the chain , not the back .. hell paint both sides.. also you did say it but i will reiterate .. if you re going with 18th and 19th, start counting AFTER the gold link. the teeth actually sit on the 1st and 20th slot between pins for proper alignment.
been watching your video a few times as Im rebuilding my head with new valves, valve seals and lifters...please dude, get the good quality locking tool.
I bought the ECS brand and mine was a bit sloppy and i used the vise grips to make sure it doesn't move and i strip the Polydrive bolt. what brand do you use with different results? Do Share
Did you pull any of the overflow sealant off the inside of the seam? I did this job this weekend and was advised that the overflow sealant could fall off and clog the oil pickup. Apparently the Audi sealant is anaerobic so doesn't cure when exposed to air so any overflow gets washed away with the oil. If I had known that I might have spent the cash on the Audi sealant.
I think you also put sealant on some of the grooves that aren't supposed to have sealant on them. Specifically the short ones next to the integrated bearings and one squiggly one at the front of the head. These may be oil galleys but I'm not 100% sure on that. I'm also wondering if using Dirko grey was wise because if those are oil galleys, even if you don't fill them in, some of the overflow sealant could have gotten in there and clogged them which wouldn't happen with the Audi anaerobic sealant as it would wash away. Check out this post. www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=869906 Not trying to be critical just passing on what I'm learning. This is a great video and I used the info to replace my tensioner but now I'm a little bit worried about the sealant aspect and contemplating taking it all apart again.
I've done this job multiple times this exact way, zero issues. You will not have any problem. No sealant was put on any surface of cam journal. This is the proper way to apply
@@KwinyB That's good to hear. I've read several accounts of people using Dirko for this job successfully but the use of anaerobic sealant does also make sense.
@@texadelphia1808 I used regular permatex sealant that was oil resistant and just made sure to be extra careful not to gunk it up and use just enough. Any stuff that oozes out just wipe up immediately and I also let mine sit over-night to cure.
Awesome video! Quick question, is it necessary to put the black plastic cover that goes inside of the crank pully? I knotice that it makes it difficult to put the girdle top when its already installed on the head.
I just rebuild the cylinder head but when I added the camshaft chain both intake & exhaust camshaft don't seat properly in place / flush and when adding the cover and torx bolts I have valves open does any body know why or what's wrong thanks
WAIT!!!! @ 7:00 mark, those little straight passages on both sides of the spark plug tubes do NOT get sealed up, they are for continous oil flow. @ 8:42 or so, and your looking at the cradle at an angle. you can see the sealant on both sides of the spark plug tubes where there should not be any>
Sorry, but the cam adjuster has 2 positions... I really can't get why is yours not moving at all? I'm currently bleeding, since don't know where to set the adjuster
Napisze po polsku moze sie przyda rodakom. Według mnie gościu powinien użyć RNZ 70-24571-20 a nie zwykły silikon. I nałożył tego za duzo, nie nakłada sie masy w te krótkie rowki one sa po to aby naddatek masy wlecial w nie a jak on tam jeszcze dorzucił to wiecej niż prawdopodobne ze sylikon dostał sie pod wałek i moze zatkac kanał smarujacy. A następna kwestia to taka ze obszar wokół śruby musi byc czysty bo ramka w tym miejscu musi dolegac idealnie bo istnieje możliwość ze wałek moze po prostu po jakimś czasie stukac. Robiłem to w swoim aucie i takie informacje udalo mi sie zebrac, moze sie komuś przyda.💪
Great video. I'm trying to rebuild one myself, but I would like to retract the built in rocker valve lifters so they re adjust once engine starts. Problem is i can't find any info. Do you or anyone else know if it is possible to retract the hydraulic lifters on this type of engine.
Hello bro I would like to know how much air pressure do you put when you adjust the cam bolts? can you tell me how many pounds did you torqued it to?? I would appreciate it thanks!!.
I need to do this job but I don't understand how so much emphasis is put on timing, cam position, and using the cam locker when to get the cam adjuster on you slap a vice grips onto the cam and turn them both to get it on.
When the cilinder head is installed on the motor with timing belt etc and you want to change the tensioner and the chain. Do I also have to take out the cam adjuster, or can I change the tensioner and chain without taking them out. What I don’t understand how can you move the intake cam while the cams are been hold with the special tool. Is it not possible to install the adjuster without moving it?
Kwiny B ahhh, gotcha. thanks. I have watched this vid again and again because I am using video as a guide (doing same job for first time, have cyl head off as well) .. and then recently saw somebody on an Audi B7 forum post a pic with it all gasket’d up.. but did not fill those channels and was confused.
I'm trying to install my cam after timing chain replacement and had to go cam cradle route... cams are in time but o can't seem to get the cams to seat properly because of the tension on the belt. Is there ant persific way you can reccomend please? Many thanks Chris.
Just had my cylinder head reconditioned with few valves replaced for what ever reason when exhaust cam is at tdc 19 pins over my cam adjuster goes on intake cam one of my intake valves is slightly open and other closed cam lock is free not tight does anyone know what position the valve would be at at tdc I assumed closed all way
I believe mine is the same way. In order to get my intake side head bolts out, I had to get a ratched on the cam sprocket and rotate it slightly to get the reliefs to line up right. Otherwise, there was a lobe engaged and it would just rotate it back to where I couldn't get the bolt out. So with the lobe engaged there will be a valve open.
Thank you so much for the valuable information about the timing I’ve done a quite a few of those The only thing was bothering me is The slag on bottom side of the chain Thank you again 👍👍👍👍👍👍
hi, the cam chain and tensioner on my car broke while stopping at a red light. i've replaced both parts and aligned everything back. now i am getting 150psi on cylinders 1 and 3. but cylinders 2 and 4 has only 90psi with compression test. the car starts and runs but shaking like crazy. can you please tell me something to check for? thank you.
hey man, thanks so much for the video! had a quick question, i’m currently tracking this job and realized that my cam adjuster has a tiny bit of wiggle to it where is mounts to the cam, almost like the dowel allows for the slightest bit of play/ it naturally has a bit of rotational wiggle without any oil pressure. seem normal?
Thanks for the video. It helps a ton. I have a question. I sent out the head on my car so i didn't install the new tensioner to the chain. So what i want to know is if timing is set correctly on both chain and belt. If i should crank it by hand being that there is no oil pressure yet. Is it normal for there to be a loud ping sound when i complete one full rotation on this motor? This is the first one that i did of these so idk if maybe i missed something
My kit from fcp euro for the timing chain tensioner came with 2 cam shaft seals . One I installed on the exhaust side near that big sprocket. Where does the other one go?
You would have to contact them, their is only one cam seal. The cam and crank seals are almost identical, maybe the kit included crankseal or they mistakenly gave you 2 cam seals.
Foriegn Federation I bought the front crank seal from the dealer. The cam shaft I installed on the exhaust side. I think they gave me an extra one. Considering there isn’t another spot for another cam shaft seal lol. Now I just need the end cap for the intake side was that all that is needed on the intake side is the end cap ?
you missed the silicone sealing. Nobody follow this way. Follow the drawing in the rigth top corner! If you follow this you will not face missfire problem!
@@KwinyB i just rebuilt my motor and head but that seal is leaking do you think i will be able to remove the old and put in the new one without pulling the griddle off? Hard to find other people who own Audi's that do their own work lol
@@brodyvanhoorn8363 you can only replace the cam seal when the griddle is torqued. If you put the cam seal in and then torque the griddle it will not seat right. Always put cam seal in AFTER.
Locking tool is needed, special rotating cam tool makes your life easy....dont half ass it people, youre already sVing a ton by doing this yourself. Besides nothings more sexy than special Audi tools!
@Hitman I said nothing about valves being bent; even though how the head is sitting on the table he is probably putting pressure on the valves that are open. Well, you need to hold the cams...taking pliers/vicegrips to hold them tends to scratch them which is kind of weak. Also the rotating cam tool makes it nice and easy to install the chain. See how he struggles? He is using a steel crowbar to rotate which can scratch the cam. Why take the chance, and be a half ass, when the correct tools are cheap! The best investment I ever made was the high quality locking tool around $100.
I would have lubed the camshaft before installing it to the dry integrated bearing surfaces to minimize clean-up, You should also lube all your new rockers and cam lobe surfaces before installing the camshafts. I would have created 2 long alignment headless bolts/pins pre-installed to opposite corners of the head to enable lowering the cradle straight down onto the head without fear of being misaligned. I will guess that you will crank the engine for a while before actually allowing it to start to give time for oil pressure to build up all throughout the engine and get lube oil everywhere before a true first start-up load is applied to all these nice new parts and clean surfaces. Thanks for the rebuild video, I can see the cam alignment black tool is not really needed.
Hello, I watched your video on how to install and time the cams but after following all the steps, the intake cam pops or snaps into place after the lobes go over the rocker arms but the exhaust cam does not do this. Any ideas to as what I need to do to fix this issue?
All the valves do not open up at the same time, after chain and tensioner is install did you rotate the cams come back to TDC and verify the head is still in TDC?
Kwiny B I did not do that after timing the cams to make sure it rotated freely. Here’s a link to a video I just posted showing the issue. Thank you for your help! ua-cam.com/video/W3TvaZx1NsE/v-deo.html
Kwiny B yes, they are both spinning together. when I line up the crank pully to the TDC mark on the engine, both cam lobes are also pointing up to the TDC marks on the head. Just not sure if I messed up somewhere when timing the cams, for the intake cam to clank every time it rotates.
I have watched other videos on this and they put the gold link on the intake sprocket, and count 18 and 19 pin for the exhaust sprocket, I have mine this way and it will hardly run, Is this my problem? I have been trying to get this running for months.
I did the 18th and 19th pins and my intake cam wasn't anywhere near where it needed to be :/ I also noticed the pin on the exhaust sprocket is farther away from the timing mark where mine is only about half a tooth away.
The small cut outs opposite the bolt holes on carrier and next to spark plug chambers are not ment to be siliconed
You forgot the 45 degrees turn on the phaser bolt
Damn I wish they had more space at the firewall. It's all by feel getting the bolts out. I can't even fit a mirror back there to see what I'm doing
The silicon job is Bullshit!!! Why have to put silicon in the oil chanel????! If somebody follow this way, after some hundred kilometers have to start again the head repair !!!
Audi is all about special tools, I bought the tool to rotate the intake cam on ebay for 12usd. Worth every penny since I have had to do this job 2 times on my 07 A4.
good video .. all i will add is 99% of guys will be doing this on the car and on the Audi you can not see behind .. so paint the teeth you need where the dot and slot are , and paint the front side of the chain , not the back .. hell paint both sides.. also you did say it but i will reiterate .. if you re going with 18th and 19th, start counting AFTER the gold link. the teeth actually sit on the 1st and 20th slot between pins for proper alignment.
Thanks a lot you're the only one that explains it really good
yes he did
15:30 A single frame is worth a thousand other UA-cam videos. So THAT'S what the counting links business is all about!
Best audi motor instructual video I've seen! Make this guy go huge!
Tks to do this video
Im working on my 07 passat 2.0. T and its very helpfull. I got a lot of tools but every coin i spend its worht.
Great Video, but lol @ "tecioner" :) say "tenshioner" one more time ! ;)
been watching your video a few times as Im rebuilding my head with new valves, valve seals and lifters...please dude, get the good quality locking tool.
I bought the ECS brand and mine was a bit sloppy and i used the vise grips to make sure it doesn't move and i strip the Polydrive bolt. what brand do you use with different results? Do Share
When reinstalling the camshaft sprocket. Do you just line it up to the cam marks and torque it down? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Did you pull any of the overflow sealant off the inside of the seam? I did this job this weekend and was advised that the overflow sealant could fall off and clog the oil pickup. Apparently the Audi sealant is anaerobic so doesn't cure when exposed to air so any overflow gets washed away with the oil. If I had known that I might have spent the cash on the Audi sealant.
I think you also put sealant on some of the grooves that aren't supposed to have sealant on them. Specifically the short ones next to the integrated bearings and one squiggly one at the front of the head. These may be oil galleys but I'm not 100% sure on that. I'm also wondering if using Dirko grey was wise because if those are oil galleys, even if you don't fill them in, some of the overflow sealant could have gotten in there and clogged them which wouldn't happen with the Audi anaerobic sealant as it would wash away.
Check out this post.
www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=869906
Not trying to be critical just passing on what I'm learning. This is a great video and I used the info to replace my tensioner but now I'm a little bit worried about the sealant aspect and contemplating taking it all apart again.
Interior of head was cleaned yes, I used diagram from Audi manual on where to apply sealant.
I've done this job multiple times this exact way, zero issues. You will not have any problem. No sealant was put on any surface of cam journal. This is the proper way to apply
@@KwinyB That's good to hear. I've read several accounts of people using Dirko for this job successfully but the use of anaerobic sealant does also make sense.
@@texadelphia1808 I used regular permatex sealant that was oil resistant and just made sure to be extra careful not to gunk it up and use just enough. Any stuff that oozes out just wipe up immediately and I also let mine sit over-night to cure.
Awesome video! Quick question, is it necessary to put the black plastic cover that goes inside of the crank pully? I knotice that it makes it difficult to put the girdle top when its already installed on the head.
I just rebuild the cylinder head but when I added the camshaft chain both intake & exhaust camshaft don't seat properly in place / flush and when adding the cover and torx bolts I have valves open does any body know why or what's wrong thanks
WAIT!!!! @ 7:00 mark, those little straight passages on both sides of the spark plug tubes do NOT get sealed up, they are for continous oil flow. @ 8:42 or so, and your looking at the cradle at an angle. you can see the sealant on both sides of the spark plug tubes where there should not be any>
Sorry, but the cam adjuster has 2 positions... I really can't get why is yours not moving at all? I'm currently bleeding, since don't know where to set the adjuster
What's the best way to get the head off the car ? Do you need to put it in service mode for the front end or can you remove it ?
Napisze po polsku moze sie przyda rodakom. Według mnie gościu powinien użyć RNZ 70-24571-20 a nie zwykły silikon. I nałożył tego za duzo, nie nakłada sie masy w te krótkie rowki one sa po to aby naddatek masy wlecial w nie a jak on tam jeszcze dorzucił to wiecej niż prawdopodobne ze sylikon dostał sie pod wałek i moze zatkac kanał smarujacy. A następna kwestia to taka ze obszar wokół śruby musi byc czysty bo ramka w tym miejscu musi dolegac idealnie bo istnieje możliwość ze wałek moze po prostu po jakimś czasie stukac. Robiłem to w swoim aucie i takie informacje udalo mi sie zebrac, moze sie komuś przyda.💪
Thank you very much .Took me a lot of hours to find this video after watching many other ones with misinformation.
Great video. I'm trying to rebuild one myself, but I would like to retract the built in rocker valve lifters so they re adjust once engine starts. Problem is i can't find any info. Do you or anyone else know if it is possible to retract the hydraulic lifters on this type of engine.
Hello bro I would like to know how much air pressure do you put when you adjust the cam bolts? can you tell me how many pounds did you torqued it to?? I would appreciate it thanks!!.
How about the Cam seal that goes on behind the Timing BELT Gear ?
Dude.. thank you so much for this video. Was having trouble finding a video for the chain install for my vw bpy engine.
I need to do this job but I don't understand how so much emphasis is put on timing, cam position, and using the cam locker when to get the cam adjuster on you slap a vice grips onto the cam and turn them both to get it on.
When the cilinder head is installed on the motor with timing belt etc and you want to change the tensioner and the chain. Do I also have to take out the cam adjuster, or can I change the tensioner and chain without taking them out. What I don’t understand how can you move the intake cam while the cams are been hold with the special tool. Is it not possible to install the adjuster without moving it?
I don't know if you know of Brock lesnar or not but you sound just like the guy lol
Can u spin the cams freely with out chain!?
What a great video!!! Lots of good information!!!
Great vid 👌
Just one question how is it possible that ARP bolts 🔩 are tighten 130lbs/inch and factory ones are 8 n/m?
Yes ARP will have different torque specifications and possible different torque patterns
great!
It looks like you are sealing the oil channels...
First time I recorded i was not paying attention and did put silicone in them, did remove before final assembly, thats why I displayed the diagram.
Kwiny B ahhh, gotcha. thanks. I have watched this vid again and again because I am using video as a guide (doing same job for first time, have cyl head off as well) .. and then recently saw somebody on an Audi B7 forum post a pic with it all gasket’d up.. but did not fill those channels and was confused.
Ahh gotcha yea, I just didn't have the time to re-record the part and edit so I out the diagram overlay to follow that.
Thanks man! You helped me a lot.
Very good video 👍, where can you find how much pins you have to count on the chain? I have got 2.0T (bwa)
I'm trying to install my cam after timing chain replacement and had to go cam cradle route... cams are in time but o can't seem to get the cams to seat properly because of the tension on the belt. Is there ant persific way you can reccomend please? Many thanks Chris.
Take your timing belt off, or let the tension off from it. Mark your TDC points
Just had my cylinder head reconditioned with few valves replaced for what ever reason when exhaust cam is at tdc 19 pins over my cam adjuster goes on intake cam one of my intake valves is slightly open and other closed cam lock is free not tight does anyone know what position the valve would be at at tdc I assumed closed all way
I believe mine is the same way. In order to get my intake side head bolts out, I had to get a ratched on the cam sprocket and rotate it slightly to get the reliefs to line up right. Otherwise, there was a lobe engaged and it would just rotate it back to where I couldn't get the bolt out. So with the lobe engaged there will be a valve open.
Thank you so much for the valuable information about the timing
I’ve done a quite a few of those
The only thing was bothering me is
The slag on bottom side of the chain
Thank you again 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Great video!
is it same on 2.0tdi?
Ah thanks
hi, the cam chain and tensioner on my car broke while stopping at a red light. i've replaced both parts and aligned everything back. now i am getting 150psi on cylinders 1 and 3. but cylinders 2 and 4 has only 90psi with compression test. the car starts and runs but shaking like crazy. can you please tell me something to check for? thank you.
Check valves and piston
Thank you
Absolutely nailed the instructions on timing chain, thank you so much
Great video! Thanks Kwiny B.
hey man, thanks so much for the video! had a quick question, i’m currently tracking this job and realized that my cam adjuster has a tiny bit of wiggle to it where is mounts to the cam, almost like the dowel allows for the slightest bit of play/ it naturally has a bit of rotational wiggle without any oil pressure. seem normal?
I had one that had play as well, I replaced it to avoid any problem that might have occurred from it. I would recommend the same for you.
Great info.
What camshafts did you use? I’m about to do my big turbo build and was considering mk6 r cams
Stock cams right now, once dynoed gonna swap cams with Rs and dyno again and see differences
Good job thanks alot
excellent.
Thanks for the video. It helps a ton. I have a question. I sent out the head on my car so i didn't install the new tensioner to the chain. So what i want to know is if timing is set correctly on both chain and belt. If i should crank it by hand being that there is no oil pressure yet. Is it normal for there to be a loud ping sound when i complete one full rotation on this motor? This is the first one that i did of these so idk if maybe i missed something
Your correct, it will make a snaping sound from the cams rolling past the lobes and the valve springs springing it back around.
@@KwinyB so this is normal? Ive never heard this on any other motor so loudly. Thanks for your help and reply I very much appreciate it.
Спасибо, дорогой друг!)
Excelent Thanks
My kit from fcp euro for the timing chain tensioner came with 2 cam shaft seals . One I installed on the exhaust side near that big sprocket. Where does the other one go?
You would have to contact them, their is only one cam seal. The cam and crank seals are almost identical, maybe the kit included crankseal or they mistakenly gave you 2 cam seals.
Foriegn Federation I bought the front crank seal from the dealer. The cam shaft I installed on the exhaust side. I think they gave me an extra one. Considering there isn’t another spot for another cam shaft seal lol. Now I just need the end cap for the intake side was that all that is needed on the intake side is the end cap ?
Correct seal goes on exhuast side, cap goes on intake side
Foriegn Federation thank you for explaining it . First time rebuilding a motor and want to eliminate as much problems as possible. Thanks again!
The extra seal is for your brain since after doing this job it will dripping out your ear.
you missed the silicone sealing. Nobody follow this way. Follow the drawing in the rigth top corner! If you follow this you will not face missfire problem!
Awesomewe video one of the best out there.....what is the silicone you used?
Thanks man, it's called Dirko Grey
@@KwinyB thanks but I have one more question do i need a special socket for the ARP bolts
Yes you do, most are arp hardware with me 12 point
when did you put in the camshaft seal located next to the belt pulley? can you put that in after torqued?
Yes only put in after griddle is torqued
@@KwinyB i just rebuilt my motor and head but that seal is leaking do you think i will be able to remove the old and put in the new one without pulling the griddle off? Hard to find other people who own Audi's that do their own work lol
@@brodyvanhoorn8363 you can only replace the cam seal when the griddle is torqued. If you put the cam seal in and then torque the griddle it will not seat right. Always put cam seal in AFTER.
@@KwinyB thank you will try today very helpful
Locking tool is needed, special rotating cam tool makes your life easy....dont half ass it people, youre already sVing a ton by doing this yourself. Besides nothings more sexy than special Audi tools!
@Hitman I said nothing about valves being bent; even though how the head is sitting on the table he is probably putting pressure on the valves that are open. Well, you need to hold the cams...taking pliers/vicegrips to hold them tends to scratch them which is kind of weak. Also the rotating cam tool makes it nice and easy to install the chain. See how he struggles? He is using a steel crowbar to rotate which can scratch the cam. Why take the chance, and be a half ass, when the correct tools are cheap! The best investment I ever made was the high quality locking tool around $100.
@Hitman thanks for your help
I would have lubed the camshaft before installing it to the dry integrated bearing surfaces to minimize clean-up, You should also lube all your new rockers and cam lobe surfaces before installing the camshafts. I would have created 2 long alignment headless bolts/pins pre-installed to opposite corners of the head to enable lowering the cradle straight down onto the head without fear of being misaligned. I will guess that you will crank the engine for a while before actually allowing it to start to give time for oil pressure to build up all throughout the engine and get lube oil everywhere before a true first start-up load is applied to all these nice new parts and clean surfaces. Thanks for the rebuild video, I can see the cam alignment black tool is not really needed.
Hello, I watched your video on how to install and time the cams but after following all the steps, the intake cam pops or snaps into place after the lobes go over the rocker arms but the exhaust cam does not do this. Any ideas to as what I need to do to fix this issue?
All the valves do not open up at the same time, after chain and tensioner is install did you rotate the cams come back to TDC and verify the head is still in TDC?
Kwiny B I did not do that after timing the cams to make sure it rotated freely. Here’s a link to a video I just posted showing the issue. Thank you for your help! ua-cam.com/video/W3TvaZx1NsE/v-deo.html
Should I take the chain off and re-align the cams & timing?
@@Erick-uo8wt are both cams turning together and coming back to TDC? Am I seeing that right?
Kwiny B yes, they are both spinning together. when I line up the crank pully to the TDC mark on the engine, both cam lobes are also pointing up to the TDC marks on the head. Just not sure if I messed up somewhere when timing the cams, for the intake cam to clank every time it rotates.
I have watched other videos on this and they put the gold link on the intake sprocket, and count 18 and 19 pin for the exhaust sprocket, I have mine this way and it will hardly run, Is this my problem? I have been trying to get this running for months.
I did the 18th and 19th pins and my intake cam wasn't anywhere near where it needed to be :/ I also noticed the pin on the exhaust sprocket is farther away from the timing mark where mine is only about half a tooth away.
13:15 for timing chain instructions
Awesome video man... exactly how I was trained on it.
Thank you Joe!