How To Install Motor Mounts | Audi A4 2.0T
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- Опубліковано 18 бер 2017
- Thanks for watching! Hopefully this video helps you with the removal and installation of your new motor mounts, whether they are OEM Audi A4 replacements or Audi RS4 upgrades! These mounts were purchased from ECS Tuning (link below) for $135 a piece.
These mounts should help the performance of this car and will be able to withstand the torque produced from this Stage 1 2.0T engine.
Please let me know if you have any questions regarding this DIY procedure / tutorial! Have fun!
PART LINKS:
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www.sears.com/gearwrench-13mm-...
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Quality! I watched 15 thousand other videos and read a ton of write ups, this by far is the best. And I appreciate that the notations spell out efficiencies and mistakes to avoid. Thanks for taking the time to make a video worth watching.
I dont mean to be off topic but does anybody know of a method to get back into an Instagram account?
I was dumb lost my account password. I would love any help you can offer me.
@Jackson River instablaster =)
Great tutorial and explanation, video like this will not leave a person scratching their head.
Nice video!!! Really well made, and explanatory. All of your videos are high quality stuff. You guys are awesome. I would love to see a test pipe/hfc and a FMIC install on this same car.
Now THIS is a GREAT DIY vid!!! Great werk guys! Thanks!!!
Thanks guys! About to do this next week.
Thanks for this great video. Audi wants $1800 for this job and I now know I can do it myself.
I just took mine in last week and I need to replace mine. They're asking around 1600
Thanks so much guys!! Wouldn't have been able to do this without you!
Listen to these guys and GET THE STUBBY RACHET people! Made the job a breeze.
Great video - simple, straightforward explanation. While most of the other commenters here focus on excessive vibration under acceleration, *my* vibration comes from sitting in drive with my foot on the brake (i.e. at a stoplight). Putting it in neutral changes the RPMs slightly - and the vibration stops. Hoping new engine mounts like the ones shown here will solve the issue. We have 130K on our B7 A4 Avant.
I have the exact same issue, vibration only when stopped in deive. No vibration accelerating, decelerating, in neutral or park.
Did you end up solving the issue by changing the mounts?
I was guessing maybe it's the trans mount or snub mount.
Thanks for this video tutorial. I'm going to have to change the engine mounts on my Audi A6 2.0T soon. Hopefully its going to be the same as this.
Good job, done allready with 034, little difficult
This video gave me the confidence to try this, gonna buy the engine mounts in this video and do it myself. The shop would do it for $1000, trying to save some money.
I'm in the same boat. My motor mount has leaked and my car vibrates when i accelerate and when i brake. First thing i'm going to do even before i buy the motor mounts is see if i can loosen that top bolt with the stubby wrench (no sense in buying parts and getting too far along into the project if I can't loosen that bolt).
LoL. I am paying my mechanic 50 euros to change all 4 mounts.
When I took out the sub frame brackets, I was able to put them back in without having to jack up the sub frame. The subframe bolts when in with no problem.
Excellent video tutorial👍
Great tutorial and I love their 'Lessons Learned' notes. It doesn't gloss over the hard bits. And I love how they left in their error of dropping the sub frame and how they corrected it. I can see myself doing that. And now I know why to watch out for it and what to do if I don't do that successfully.
Nice job!
Thank you. I hope it helps!
So I’m going to replace my mounts as well, and I’m also replacing my catalytic converter and flex pipe you think if i remove the cat first I should have plenty of room to get that nut on the passenger side off the mount?
Do you have any tutorial to replace de front engine mount of an V6 3.0L 2006, i can´t find the way to do it.
You don't need the short ranch. You can access the motor mount from under. Also just unscrew the tree screws on each side. The subframe. Just cranck up the engine and replace the mounts. You don't need to undo the two skrews on the sway or stability bars. Its easyer than the video.
Nice Vid! Have a question !
any thoughts on stern Motor mounts and is there a specific tightening regimen that you guys used to reduce the vibrations inside the cabin while the mounts settled? because I am hearing different things about upgrading to the POLY ones. Please help any advice would be appreciated Thanks!
-Chaz
Helping..
ok, i finished the job with an update, i never used the 19mm, have no idea what it was for. also i couldn't get my subframe low enough (engine was at max lift - it was literally pressing against the firewall in the engine compartment) I found it WAY easier to simply place a second jack under the subframe and hold it in place while i completely removed the subframe brackets - which allowed me to comfortably get the mounts out. My problem was vibration during idle and also when i placed the car in gear it would vibrate a lot. i had after market brand new mounts in and they SUCKED, my car still vibrated jus like they was never installed. New Audi mounts worked perfect and the car doesn't vibrate anymore and it has faster acceleration. I also replace the aftermarket snub with a new OEM one, OEM was larger and fit so much better.
So i have an 06 a4 that vibrates when im in gear not as bad when im just idle i wanted to know was it audi mounts that where better or aftermarket? and how is there only two mounts?
We need lower the sub frame to remove this?
I have to do this to mine sometime here soon.. shop wants around 1600$ for it... I think ima attempt it on my own after seeing this.
What is the name of the encoder converter? Where did you order? Audi a4 b6 1.9 pd.
This is a job for a 13mm distributor wrench, since most of these are now unemployed. And you need to use alignment pins when tightening the subframe!
Does the 3.2L engine have the mounts in the same location?
Lots of vibration at highway speeds especially with engine loaded on an incline. This project is way beyond my tool shed and patience level. Any ideas on costs from a dealership versus shade tree type mechanic?
I have done this job on a A4 B5, sameish mounts.
I would cut the bottom bolt off the old mount after talking off the nut, to get extra clearance to remove it.
Then I would cut both bolts of the new mounts shorter to get fitting clearance. By a measured amount after inspection of the removed mount.
The bolts are far too long for the job they do.
I think they are so long from the factory as a safety, in case if the nuts loosened - even if the nuts fall off the motor mount will not fall out.
Hello from Chile👏👏creo que hay que cambiarlos al mío es del 2008 .
which sensor brought is because i wanted to buy the same brought sensor black
Those sub frame bolts ar one use only they stretch when fully tightened same on the rear sub frame! Why would you risk with them when in fact they are the only thing that holds the engine, wheels, granny and suspension components (Married to the car) where you and your family sit.. Anyhow... Did you notice any difference? I did mine b6 to b7 ones years a go but didn't notice any difference..
Doea a 2007 audi a4 2.0l has a electronic mount?
Great video, having issues getting the engine to lift cleanly off the mounts after all the bolts were removed. The whole car ends up lifting rather than just the engine. Any suggestions?
jckofalltrades1515 you’ve removed the snub mount and the motor mount nuts?
And undone the coolant reservoir mounting screws?
Would the 2005 s4 be the same?
I've a question. I planned mount replacement this week everything seems straight forward I'm sure it'll be a challenge. I've looked all over for a written tutorial or diagrams but can't find any. Are the bolts connecting the mount back to subframe are they really torque to yeild the look a bit big for that kind of carry on. Would I get away with just torqing and adding a little locktite I don't have replacement bolts or anywhere to purchase. Thanks for any advice
donegal2010able it’s really up to you. I will say that there’s a higher chance they will break once they’ve been yielded.
Won't removing the airfilter box give more/enough clearance to reach the top nut at the passenger side motor mount?
No because the metal fire wall is in between
What about the transmission mount?
When trying to purchase the right motor mount for my car I came across different sellers that offer parts with no right or left designation and sellers who have parts specifically for the left and specifically for the right. Should I buy the one for the right or it wouldnt matter if I buy the ones that claim they could fit in either or?
I have an audi A4 base 2007, engine 2.0L
The right one normally has a heatshield. Mounts that are not liquid-filled often do not have a heatshield and then left and right are the same.
The engine of my car have vibration if the engine mounts have problems could be the effect of vibration?
Hi Halmat, if your engine mount are leaking, the vibration of your engine will be transmitted to the frame of your car and will make you feel those vibrations in the steering when driving, you might feel it as well when accelerating or braking.
Normal engine vibration won't damage the engine mount.
Bad engine mount should not make your engine vibrate much more but slightly ( since you can feel it more and the engine mount are not absorbing vibrations ).
Hope this help.
If the snub/spigot mount rubber bush is buggered, then it puts more strain on the engine mounts.
Check the snub mount bush first. A broken engine mount will push a good snub mount out of position too.
Can you repost the link to the motor mounts? The link you have is non-functioning. Thanks also do you think the motor mounts your that you're using a better than the OEM ones if so why? Everything on my vehicles stock I'm just questioning if I actually need an upgraded motor mount. 2008 Audi A4 Quattro 2.0 Turbo
William penrose www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B7_A4-Quattro-2.0T/Engine/Mount/
You shouldn’t need to upgrade but that’s all esc has available (rs4 mounts). You could also check at shopdap.com
Hi mate, are the left and right mounts the same? I'm trying to purchase a pair of Lemforder mounts for my B7 but they only seem to stock the left mount and not the right. I got part numbers from Audi and they've provided me with left and right part numbers.
Yes, there should be left and right mounts - especially if you are using the sensor.
D I Y G A R A G E I have a 2008 Audi a4 Quattro 2.0t and both motor mounts are the exact same part number from the dealer and they both have sensors on them..
The part numbers are as follows: 8E0199379BG & 8E0199382AJ. Left and right are not the same part numbers.
Mayu Aras are you talking about for an auto transmission and also factory oem Audi motor mounts?
Mayu Aras I did some digging around. The mounts you gave me part numbers for are generic base mounts (non electrical) mounts. I don't see why you would need two different kinds, but as for the generic ones I don't know. The B7 2005-2008 a4 Quattro 2.0t automatic transmission have electrical mounts on BOTH sides and will throw a open circuit engine code if you use generic mounts.. Electrical mounts stiffen and loosen according to driving conditions. You will not get this with base mounts that are non electric. I took the time to offer this advice only because it's a decent job to do twice if u put base mounts in and the car rode like a Honda civic and not an Audi.. I hope this information helps.. I can get you the original OEM electrical mount part number that the car originally used at build if you want..
I read that you should run the engine to settle it before tightening everything down, can anyone confirm?
Indiadam I think that's correct. We should have done that
No you don't have to. Just make sure you put all parts back firmly and you good.
Audi technician here and yes that is correct. Drive around the block without fully tightening. Then go back and tighten the boltd or you will have vibrations.
Removing the air box would have helped getting the passenger side mount.
Hola buenas disculpen no hablo ingles quizás me ayuden traduciendo lo que quiero preguntar! Quiero saber que falla realiza un soporte dañado? Gracias...
El carro vibra mucho cuando los soportes están dañados, bebido a que los soportes no están absorbiendo las vibraciones y los transmite directo a la carrocería.
Y cuando los soportes están dañados por lo general están llenos de aceite al rededor que se salió de adentro.
Would this be somewhat the same procedure on a B6 S4?
Alexander De La Cruz no, it’s got a different motor.
Modern Engineer l know that but I think the mounts are in the same place, there’s just way less room in the S4 lol
Alexander De La Cruz I mean the general procedure should be the same... let me look it up and I’ll get back to you!
Check this out: sandbox.enjoybeing.net/diy/S4/motor-mounts/
Hi mate I have a b7 changed driveshafts, flywheel and clutch and 3 mounts but car still vibrates. Feels like the engine is vibrating when accelerating hard or even when picking up not to aggressively from a constant speed any suggestions will be appreciated
Abdul Khan how's your power / boost? Misfires can make the car kind of jerky.
D I Y G A R A G E my power boost is fine im having no miss fire. Engine is smooth feels like the vibration is not coming from the injectors egr timing ect. Do you think I should loosen my mounts from the top take a small drive and tighten up to let them settle down
Abdul, have you checked the transmission mounts?
Andrew this is probably the problem will check it out on the weekend
Abdul Khan you solved the problem? I kinda have the same problem.
no torque specs for any of the bolts ( especially subframe)? Also I've see. people lift the engine enough to clear the mounts, without having touched subframe and sway bar..
Thanks for the tip - this was our first time. Always learning!
I have done this job on a A4 B5, sameish mounts.
I would cut the bottom boltbof the mount after talking off the nut, to get extra clearance to remove it.
Then I would cut both bolts of the new mounts shorter to get fitting clearance. By a measured amount after inspection of the removed mount.
The bolts are far too long for the job they do.
Changing engine mounts Is easy. But doing it right Is hard. You didnt align the body, subframe And engine mount brackets...
Audi's customer return policy.
Torquing bolts to correct specs ? What is that ? 🤷♂️🤦♂️