Explaining Fault Error Codes Fisher & Paykel/ Elba/ Smartdrive Washer / Washing Machine Beeping
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- Опубліковано 26 сер 2024
- This applies to all Fisher & Paykel / Elba Smartdrive machines since 1991
PLEASE NOTE.. some LW and AW machines only have 7 cycle lights. The FIRST light is missing. In this case you have to assume the first light is either off or on. You will have to check for both fault codes. I.e. 0XXXXXXX or 1XXXXXXX
Also if the spin light is flickering it may not be a part of the fault code. It is designed to be read by a separate "code reader machine"
On late models error code 49 can also sometimes mean the hot valve also has a fault.
ALSO
If the valves test ok means the water valve switching transistors on the circuit board in the motor control unit can also cause this fault. A new motor control module will be needed.
This video Does NOT apply to Fisher and Paykel "ECS" or "Gentle Annie"
You can scroll down and search for your model and download the SERVICE manual with the fault codes from here
www.manualslib....
Thank you, interesting and smart way for it to give error codes. Had a Error 136 'motor stall' on mine.
Turned the unit upside down and found all three wires on the Rotary encoder had snapped or got chewed through by mouse. Soldered them back together and its working strong.
Wow. Must be a Very hungry mouse! All my years of fixing these machines I've never had a broken wire or connector on the motor. Well done!
I have no idea why you have any dislikes. This is a really useful tutorial. Thank you.
Yes I know. Especially when this is the only video on UA-cam about these fault codes. Thanks for your comment
Mate you're a legend. Thanks heaps for sharing your knowledge with the DIY repairers of the world!! I can only think they are half blind and thinking thay are clicking like!
I would imagine the only people that would dislike the video would be the overcharging repair guys! Awesome video BTW & thanks for posting (absolute legend).
I wonder if the dislikes are because you didn’t go through and explain every single possible fault. Only reason I can think of. This was perfect thanks
Thankyou, you just saved me a trip to the repair shop and probably a couple of hundred dollars. Error code was condensation in the display board, turns out there was ant nests in there... cleaned it out dried it and now working good as new 👌🏽
Thanks for a great video. Short, informative, no waffle. Just what I like.
Thank you again so much for posting this video. It has really made my life a lot easier knowing what was wrong
Thank you! Led me to find a toothpick, yes a toothpick stuck in my drain impeller! Thank you very much! Have worked on washing machines in the past, but this one is the simplest I have ever owned mechanically!
That's great. Glad to help....... Yes I have found coins, nails, hairclips, pop rivets, needles and of course lots of fluffy soapy crud that have stopped the pump working. Smart drives ARE great to work on. They can be dismantled completely in 5 mins
Paul P
Your a legend mate. Thanks heaps for posting this
You're a champion Paul. Saved me a couple of hundred bucks. I was going to throw the machine out. Cleaned the drain pump and she's good to go!
Excellent! Makes fault finding so easy. I now know what to tell the service tech. Thanks!
You helped this guy, so thank you!
Awesome advice mate, found the fault and fixed it. No service tech needed, cheers
You're welcome
Thanks for your video. Straightforward and helpful
Its great when your fault code is the same as the example so you don't need to figure out the binary!
Do you remember the fix?? The manual is saying it's an issue with the cold valve harness...
Thank you, i had hopelessly absolutely no idea how to read the error code & didn't realise there was binary codes & that lol
That was quite useful!
Thanks for taking the time to help us all out.
Paul you should enable ads on this video, you are helping a lot of people. Would be good for you to get some cash for your trouble.
I am a bit naive when it comes to that sort of thing. I will look into it, thank you
I can't tell you how helpful this is Thank you for posting!
You're welcome 😁
Very helpful and easy to follow video - thanks!
thank you for your help with our machine!
Am so grateful for your help. Thank you so much
Thanks that was a great help
You rock. This just saved me a lot of money.
Thanks, great practical information on this site. I was able to locate the problem very quickly
Very helpful thank you. It's exactly what's just happened yesterday for the first time. Much appreciated.
Thanks Paul. Very helpful video. I just got the same error code on my machine. Seems to be an issue with cold valve power contacts.
Do you remember the fix?? The manual is saying it's an issue with the cold valve harness...
Thank you very much
You are amazing thank you
many thanks for posting that ! That helps so much ! Your awesome.
Just fixed my machine (that had a code 00101011) with the help of this video and that manual site! Thank you so much!!
Thank you!
Bloody legend mate. Thanks for the advice.
Bloody Marvellous Paul - thanks!
Awesome thanks for that!
i have 00001100 any help? Water works but the tub wont fill or keep water. It seems to keep draining
My machine blew the fuse on the Motor Control Board. I replaced the fuse with a fuse link so I could replace the fuse if it happened again. When I tried to run the pump the fuse blew again. Then I found your video. After watching this video the first 5 light flash on and off indicating an error 248 telling me the pump is bad. When I ohm the pump out (brn & white wires) it reads 0 ohms (shorted). Im guessing the pump is bad.
You are lucky to still have a working control board after that fuse pops, well done for replacing it. The pump ohms should read around 33 ohms when it's cool. But also pull off the plug on the pump and check the ohms at the pump terminals. Lean the machine back against the wall to get to pump. It could be those brown and white wires could be shorted together giving you a false reading (which would be extremely rare because it's usually the pump)
Thanks Paul, great info :)
Thank you for adding this. Great help. Cheers. Rob
Really helpful thanks.
Thank-you very much for this video It got me onto the right path.
Brilliant, this really helped me fix a dud machine I purchased :)
Thanks very much. Very helpful
Great video! not a handy person myself, but followed your advice in numbering the fault codes, ours was showing 10001001, and Googled it to find the Fisher & Paykel manual telling me that it is a Motor loss of a Phase. not quite sure what it means! there also seems to be a faint motor burning smell after the washing is done, the machine couldn't drain the water completely and move on to the spinning stage. After pulling out some heavier laundry, and shifting the laundry around, it managed to complete its cycle. not quite sure if it is fixable?
There's a broken or dirty connection to the motor. If you have a multimeter: Watch this but forward fast to 5.00 mins
ua-cam.com/video/5GPBq3XKZMk/v-deo.html
This will help you test the motor wiring. You will get different readings for your model. Maybe 39 ohms between phases.
To get to the motor watch this
ua-cam.com/video/pUrtHJ-1kPI/v-deo.html
Check the 3 wires with red blue and yellow plugs are not loose or broken.
Thanks for your video!
On Fisher Paykel Eco Smart GLW-11 - no error code displays when in diagnostic mode...all 8 lights off.
I put it into diagnostic mode (With the machine off, press and hold the Wash Temp Down button and then push the power button until the machine gives 2 short beeps and lights up. Press the Spin Speed Up button three times so that the Hold and Slow LEDs are illuminated.)
The eight wash progress LEDs are ALL off.
Initial problem: usually using Regular wash - during the wash when 4th and 5th progress lights are lit, the machine stops,beeps, and the hot and cold water lights are flashing. I have checked the hot and cold inlet valve screens and also the hoses connected (flushed them out too) - water pressure seems to be okay.
Any ideas/suggestion?
Taken from the service manual:
With hot and cold both flashing during wash cycle can mean 3 things.
--The hot tap is not turned on even if you are using "cold wash only" option.
-- The drain hose is too low and is slowly siphoning the machine. The drain hose should loop up higher than the lid of the machine.
-- The machine " size settings" are wrong.
To set the size switch turn the power on at the power point and off at the console. Press and hold the TEMPERATURE UP button then press the POWER button. Smartdrive will give 4 short beeps and the pattern of LEDs will change.
• Press TEMPERATURE UP button, the COLD LED is on for 5-5.5kg (560mm wide).
• Press WATER LEVEL UP button, the LOW WATER LED is on for 6-6.5kg (600mm wide).
• Press SPIN SPEED UP button, the SPIN HOLD LED is on for 7-7.5kg (650mm wide).
• Press POWER to exit this mode
I hope this helps
this is great but i just wanna get my frickin laundry done
I have exactly the same fault code as you, but after changing both inlet valve ( hot and cold).
But when i turn it on it still showing the same fault code....my machine is the GW712. any help would be much appreciated.
Check the wiring and the connectors from the valves to the control unit. If they are ok, unfortunately it's a faulty control unit
Nice👍Thanks..👌
What do the light mean that are lit when you first put into diagnosis mode, (ie: wash temp cold lit; wash Size medium lit, etc??,)
Download this manual and go down to page 31 and it's all explained from there. Check page 34 too
drive.google.com/file/d/1c5VGP6zECHgCjqph3ymcGmwROKvhrbpP/view?usp=drivesdk
awesome!!! Thanks so much
My problem is *very* slow hot or cold water, and after a time the hot and cold lights flash with warning beeps. Progress lights stay at their current position. It's a GW512 NZ. I suspected it might be inlet filters so pulled off both inlet hoses and cleaned the filters (no obvious problem but cleaned them anyway). Unfortunately the result is the same. When I add water with bucket or hose it works fine. Is there anything else worth checking before forking out for a new solenoid valve block?
Along with the filter inside the valve itself there is sometimes a gauze filter at each end of the hoses. Check them too. It is extremely rare for both valves to become jammed shut
Watch this but you probably have already done this
ua-cam.com/video/PhdklAeHoTg/v-deo.html
how to manage this error
ran diagnostic but the first four light are just flashing without any change in results for 10 mins. Any advice?
Error code lights don't flash they stay on solid. With the lights flashing, switch off at the wall and leave off for a good 5 mins before turning back on. This can help reboot everything.
Mine won't fill up. I started it remembered I forgot a few things and pause it put them in and it never started to fill up again. Any ideas what's wrong?
I need the actual model number printed on the back at the top.
Thanks for this straight forward, well-explained video Paul. I have the same error as the one in this video (manual is saying it's an issue with the cold valve harness) - do you have a video outlining the fix?
It depends on the model number. Which model do you have.( printed on the sticker on the back)
This may help
ua-cam.com/video/iIqukxSZvsI/v-deo.html
Paul P its an (F&P) MW511
You need to test the coil with a multimeter first. My other video in that link above shows this. Undo the 2 screws at the back and lift off the display panel. Pull off the wires of the water valves and test the resistance
@@paulywooly Thanks so much Paul. You're a legend. You should enable ads for your videos: support.google.com/youtube/answer/94522?hl=en Helps pay for the party.
Hey Paul! This video is very helpful! I am stumped by my GWL10US. I have this error code (00100101) and I can't seem to get it right. I've replaced the diverter valve. There are no clogs/tangles. The drain pump works like a charm. The diverter valve (wax motor) allows the machine to drain when cold (off) and cycle when on (warm). Any advice, please?
That is a pump error code, not diverter valve.
Download this manual
www.google.co.nz/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=applianceassistant.com/ServiceManuals/200437_fisher_and_paykel_gwl10us_eco_smart_electronic_washing_machine.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiwyJn7kKvjAhUMfH0KHS2cACEQFjAFegQIBBAB&usg=AOvVaw3P43h-oMpLEVTpNOaM9UqD
Error code 37 at page 20
It's common for an old pump to overheat. Run the pump for at least one minute. Switch off at the wall and lean the machine back and reach under on the right of the machine and feel the pump. It should be just slightly warm. If it's hot, replace it. When they refer to the "basket", they mean the inner stainless steel bowl.
Look closely at the inner bowl holes. Check for blocked holes . If some of them are blocked then the machine needs servicing. When they refer to 3 and 4, removing the basket, my other video explains how.
ua-cam.com/video/HNY54gTrcB0/v-deo.html
Hope this can help you
piece of cake thanks heaps!!
liked the video
Very Well Presented,thanks
How do you reset the MW512 to the wash that you prefer to do.
I want to change the washing options
Not sure whether you can change the options on MW512. Check page 24 here
laundry.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/fisher_paykel/mw512.html
Hi Paul, thanks for the video, and links. I have a GWL15 YS (bought Nov. 2006 in the US). The console buttons/lights went dead. I replaced the 6.3A fuse on the Motor Controller's ckt board, and reinstalled in console; put it in Diagnostic Mode, and ran the Drain Pump test (pressing the Regular button to turn the pump on). This induced the new fuse to blow also. Does this imply a blocked or bad drain pump ?
Watch this it may help. Please note that your voltage if 110v is different in the US
ua-cam.com/video/PiDXHoRdYTs/v-deo.html
Check the resistance of the drain pump also
Here's the workshop manual
drive.google.com/file/d/0B-WRto5B9zZTOWhiaEFWbFJKWXM/view?usp=drivesdk
Page 6
@@paulywooly Well..... I removed the pump from the machine. It LOOKED ok and impeller spun freely. So I followed your video (1st cobbling together a cord with spade terminals I happened to have in the garage) and shazam - within about 2 seconds of plugging the pump in, it gave off sparks and smoke! Ok that baby is bad! Thanks Mr. P.
Is there anything you can do to fix this ? I have tried replacing the solanoids on the washer but I simply cannot get it
To
Stop
Which model do you have. If you have replaced the solenoid then maybe it's faulty wiring to the solenoid or faulty control unit. Follow the wires back to the control unit and look for any breaks. Unscrew and Pull out all the wiring plugs and hose to the control unit and remove it. Undo the clips (or screws) on the control unit and open it up. On later model air cooled units, the solenoid wires are a separate plug on the circuit board which maybe dirty and need cleaning. On water cooled units they are hard soldered to the board. Check the plugs at each end of the wires with a multimeter for continuity. Check with a magnify glass for broken tracks on the circuit board that lead to the valve wiring plugs.
Wow thank you
So helpful. Thanks!
hey Paul, my washer stuck in diagnostic mood and leaking out the bottom, do I scrap it
Doesn't sound good. Switch off at the wall for 5 mins should clear the stuck diagnostic mode. Water leaking from a smart drive is USUALLY a leaky water pump or a cracked drain hose.
my code was 49. replaced cold water valve, but still beeping continues. also to test diagnostic is says to push spin until light goes to medium. Those lights don't light up. What does that mean? Or do I need to reset some how?
Don't know whether I can help...which model is it. The label on the back will be something W then 3 numbers
It is a GWL11 model. I'm thinking the mother board may have a fault.
+Dennis Atkinson . Try disconnecting and reconnecting the plug at the control unit. Follow the wires from the cold valve to the control unit. Slightly lift the white tags and lift out the plug harness. I have found this in the past where the plug has a dirty connection to the valve. Or get a multimeter and read the resistance across the valve. Read this might help too... ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/2421931/fisher-paykell-gwl11-stuck-in-code-49
Sorry I can't be much help.
if it's still beeping with the same fault code then the hot/cold 2amp fuse has blown which requires someone abled to solder the fuse to the motor controller.
Who do u get regular to get that orange light on the left.
I think you can do this on Phase 4 & 5 models only..........Hold down Regular button for 3 seconds until it beeps twice. Push advanced button continuously to get the time LED'S that you desire....(Each LED=3 minutes)..... Push Regular button again to finish
Yes you can and phase 3 as well.
How do I fix this I couldn’t not figure it out
What is your fault code?
Do u know what causes the orange light to come on beeping?
The first or second orange light ?
I have a GWL11 by Fisher Paykel. I am geting a Fault code of 37. What is it and how do I fix it?
00100101 is a pump blocked error. Check for a kink in the drain hose. Otherwise you need to remove the pump but this will dump all the water that's still inside. Remove the agitator and scoop out as much water as possible and take the machine outside if you can and remove the pump. Watch my other video on how to. Check for coins etc that could jam the pump
Hi, I have fault code 00100101 (37). F&P Quicksmart model MW513. Any help pointing me in right direction would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Hope this helps. I made a video especially for you!
ua-cam.com/video/rhW6JPKmWGw/v-deo.html
My FP is Mod# GWL11. It fills but doesn't agitate in the wash or rinse cycles. It sits there just circulating water over the clothes continuously. I can manually advance it to the spin cycle which it'll complete and shut off but it will not stop and/or beep or produce the error codes. How would I manually go in to retrieve the error codes.
Mmmm.....That's a tricky one (it COULD be a faulty Rotor Position Sensor)
But just try this first
With an empty machine and switched off, turn the inner bowl of the machine and the agitator should turn also. With 2 hands, lift up the inner bowl and it should lift up easily by 1 inch then clonk to a stop. With it still lifted up, turn the bowl slightly and the agitator should NOT turn. If you cannot lift the bowl easily by an inch means the floating clutch has not disengaged and something is jamming it. Lift the cup out of the agitator and reach down and undo the wing nut and lift agitator out, check for foreign objects underneath and try lifting the bowl again
To see the last error the machine had:
Turn the power on at the power point but off at the machine. Press and hold the WASH TEMP DOWN button and then the POWER button until the machine gives 2 short beeps and lights up. Release the buttons
Last fault can be found by pressing the SPIN SPEED UP button three times. The HOLD and SLOW lights should be illuminated. The code can then be read from the 8 wash progress lights at the top
If no code is displayed then watch my video of how to test the machine parts if you are handy with that sort of thing. Your machine is a Phase 6
ua-cam.com/video/5GPBq3XKZMk/v-deo.html
or the Rotor Position Sensor replacement
ua-cam.com/video/pUrtHJ-1kPI/v-deo.html
I hope this is some sort of help to you
Paul thank you for a speedy reply & much needed information in determining a repair solution. I'm going to give it a go and I'll keep you posted.
What…
if the FISHER & PAYKEL washer error code was 255?
There is no error code 255.
If all lights are on, check that no other lights are flashing such as the hot or cold or water level lights. If the hot or cold are on means an inline water filter is blocked
Really useful. Thank you.
please help me my machine wont turn off with the button only way is to unplug it also it has the same code in this vid with beeping? Please and Thankyou.
Not sure why it won't turn off with the button. Maybe it has a faulty power button. Check this video for error code 49
ua-cam.com/video/iIqukxSZvsI/v-deo.html
Wow! Fantastic thank you so much!
Bloody legend!
How do you turn off diagnostic mode?
Push the power button
Hi. My machine is showing the first 3 lights (code 224) AFTER turning the power off then on (re-installation)...rather than stopping mid-cycle. Do I still consider this to be an error code...Motor Control Module Fault?
There is no error code 224. It does sound like a motor control fault. Try switching OFF at the wall then hold the power button down for 30 seconds (Much like resetting a laptop) . Also Lift the display off (undo the 2 screws at the back) and check all connections are tight
yeah... did all that and still no action. Cost of new controller equal to what I paid for the machine 2nd hand so looks like I'm going shopping for a new one. Thanks for your time anyway!
awesome thankyou
You're welcome 😄
Thanks mate you just saved me a couple of $$
HUGE help. Thankyou :)
Hi Paul I have a fisher and paykel mw612 made in August 2006 I have just replaced the seized bearings now every time I plug the washing machine in it shows the same error code in this video and the water valves seem okay I need to know how to get a motor control unit (it doesn’t have the pressure tube on it it’s in front of the solenoids)
It seems odd that that has happened after replacing the bearings. You shouldn't need to touch the water solenoids or the motor control unit to replace the bearings.
1. Just check the wiring to the solenoids at the motor control end. Check that plug has a good connection to the board.
2. In the past I have had water solenoids open circuit after they warm up, giving the fault code, but they test good when they're cold.
3. Or a faulty transistor or fuse on the main board.
Check my video on "error 49 cold valve fault but valves check ok"
Or my other valve videos
Are you in NZ?
@@paulywooly yes i am
@@paulywooly i had to touch the water valve and motor controller unit so i could take the top off
@@ryderearlesroblox8620ok. You shouldn't need to. I have done lots of bearing replacements and also have a bearing replacement video (an earlier model than yours but they're all the same) and the whole top comes off without removing the motor control unit at all. Just a few plugs that go down to the bottom. But anyway, is it still showing the 49 error code?
@@ryderearlesroblox8620
Check your Product code number (very important ) on the sticker on the back or the part number sticker on the motor control
This is my supplier:
www.appliancespares.nz/products/fisher-paykel-motor-control-module-421234nap
is that for this particular model only?
All models except the model that starts with IW.
hi @Paul P, Thanks for sharing this great info. With your help I could understand my issue, it's Fisher and Paykel 01000010. Do you have an idea of what's this problem and you think as an easy fix?
I'm afraid it's a very rare problem with what is called the pressure transducer inside the main control unit under the front panel. The only way to fix this problem is to replace the motor control unit which can be expensive but they are certainly still available on the web or eBay. Make sure you get the correct unit. Undo the 2 screws at the top back of the front display panel and lift it off. The motor controller is underneath and should have the part number label on it. The units come in 5 different colour models- Blue, green, yellow, grey or brown. Plus there can be 4 or 5 different type brown ones. If you cannot see a motor controller label let me know the model number on the back of the washing machine. Good luck
I literally just got the exact same fault code.
Out of interest when did you purchase your machine and what model? Elba WA55TM purchased late 2009 here.
Hey Paul my man my washing machine had a fuse smell and now it don't turn on any suggestion or help
Very sorry to hear. A blown main fuse in the control unit usually means a major meltdown, especially if it is a dark grey one (phase 5) they are known to be bad for it. Things that cause it are faulty water pump, power cuts or surges in your house. I have tried to replace main fuses in the control units in the past but NEVER had any success. A new motor control unit is always needed. You MUST check resistances to the pump, water valves, lid and out of balance switches with a multimeter before fitting a new motor control unit. See my other video. Hope this helps
I have the same issue and followed your another video on how to tes t the different ports , but everything is testing fine. How do i overcome this issue. Please help me out
Sometimes when you test the water valves when they are cold they test ok. But the valves can become faulty when they warm up and you will get a fault code. Otherwise you can have a faulty motor control unit which will need replacement. What is the model number of your machine?
@@paulywooly Model number - Gw712,
Serial no. -- BPN595013
Motor controller pass SD12 420376
Watch my other video, it should help hopefully but let me know if you need more help
ua-cam.com/video/iIqukxSZvsI/v-deo.html
Read the whole description to explain a bit more
Thanks for help Paul. I managed to get a motor controller board (used part) and replace it successfully. It would not be possible without your videos (problem detection)
You're very welcome. Sorry to hear it was the motor control because they are expensive.
what if the fault code is blinking?
If the fault code is blinking (usually with no beeping)...try pushing the power button twice and see if it returns to normal. If not, what is the fault code
hi, my one is mw511 and same problem but...I reconnect hot and cold water all is ok is just stuck on fault code ... ( I measure valves for hot and cold water and they are same resistance number comming on) any suggestions ?
can you tell me the exact fault code. e.g. 00100100
Awesome thanks for this!
fantastic vid! you are awesome
Hey do you know what's wrong if it's not starting when you try to start a cycle it beeps and does not start
What is your fault code when it beeps.
@@paulywooly 68
66 sorry
@@misaotearoa2716 Oh no, 66 is a very rare fault. Try removing the lid and unscrewing the 2 screws behind the display panel and pull the panel towards you. Pull off the clear plastic tube from the control unit and blow down it. You should hear the blowing sound coming from down in the washing machine bowl. Put the tube back in and try the machine again. If 66 happens again then the control unit needs replacing , according to the service manual.
@@paulywooly thank you will try that tomorrow
GDay Paul, I've a fisher paykel 6kg that isn't spinning the clothes as dry as it used to. The machine is about 7 years old and I've recently replaced the pump and checked the hoses for blockages finding none. No error codes appear and there's no odd/unusual behaviour from the machine. I've also reduced load sizes in case it's being overloaded with no resolution. Any help would be appreciated. Peter
I need a model number please. a sticker on the back left
Thanks heaps for responding so fast. The model is GW612. Peter
That's a phase 6 machine with an out of balance (OOB) switch. If the switch is triggered or faulty it will slow the spin speed down. If you are that way inclined to do some tests, get hold of a multimeter, you can watch my other video about testing smart drives. Test the OOB switch, see if that helps and get back to me
I've replaced the OOB switch & now the water is pulsing when filling. From what I've read I need to alarm the new balance switch but I cannot find out how to do this. Can you help with this too please?
sounds like you may have 2 faults, if the OOB switch was faulty. It now sounds like the rotor position sensor. Can you watch my other video about "pulsing while filling" should help you.
Mine is continually stopping and beeping even while filling up. How do I work that one out please?
Mine starts beeping and all the lights are showing. No code for that.
Which model is it, there is a sticker on back left. or this may help you
ua-cam.com/video/pUrtHJ-1kPI/v-deo.html
Mine is a GW711 and now it won't drain. I just replaced the broken lid and before that it was draining fine but not spinning and I think that was because the lid lock wasn't working because it was broken. Please Help me.
If the lid lock is broken you can read how to remove it from here. Or download the whole manual (click the download at top left)
www.manualslib.com/manual/820531/Fisher-And-Paykel-Phase-6-Series-11.html?page=12#manual
Slightly better instructions can be found here
www.manualslib.com/manual/787840/Fisher-And-Paykel-Smartdrive-Phase-7.html?page=48
A blocked or jammed pump can cause it to not drain but it's weird that it was draining beforehand....or a faulty or blocked diverter valve.
This might help too (disable the lid lock)
ua-cam.com/video/EdnH90GGOcs/v-deo.html
I really hope this helps and you can get this sorted yourself without having to call a technician.
Mine isn’t making that type of beeping noice
error code 105 how can fix it
Which model is it ?
The following is from the service manual. Hope this helps:
(01101001) Phase 2 to 5 - Comms. Error Time-out These faults are reported when the Display module detects an error in the communications between the Display module and the Motor Controller. NB. If the product is an IW, check that the motor controller is not 426520. If it is replace with a compatible part. This is incompatible and will give a fault code 105 at the start of agitate. Not before! If it is a 426520 replace motor controller with a compatible part. Primary Source - Display module Action - Replace Display module. Secondary Source - Motor Controller Action - Replace Motor Controller Tertiary Source - Rotor Position Sensor (Phase 5 Only) Action - Replace Rotor Position Sensor. If the new Rotor Position Sensor corrects the fault refit the original display module and motor controller.
Hi Paul, not only do the lights light up on the top row it also lights up on the spin cycle, (the two bottom ones) what do they/that means?
I'm not exactly sure what you mean. The fault code must include all of the 8 lights at the top including the 2 rinse lights and spin light. Does that help ?
Or do you mean the 2 bottom lights above the spin speed buttons.
yes that is what I mean. I would have sent you a photo, but i cant on youtube, the machine just keeps turning on and turning off the water, in very short burst, and then displays the code.
Does it "Beep" when the lights are showing. I need to know the fault code. OR is it doing the same thing as this machine with no fault code or beeping--- ua-cam.com/video/pUrtHJ-1kPI/v-deo.html
@@paulywooly it does beep, and the code as you explain it is, 00001011, which it equates to = 11.
Have A MODEL gwl11. Error code 56. Can you tell me what that code is for?
Thanks Sam
56. (00111000) A rare fault
Several remedies:
1. Rearrange the load so that the clothes are evenly distributed around the bowl, or select a higher water level. If the load was to one side of the bowl or too heavy it can be possible for the agitator to bind in one direction when trying to sense bowl float.
2. Check the machine is not syphoning. The loop in the drain hose at the back must be higher than the water level in the machine
3. Check that there are no clothes or other foreign objects preventing the clutch from reengaging, and that there aren’t any defects with the clutch mechanism. With 2 hands lift the internal bowl up. It should lift up 1 inch and stop and spin freely, but not the agitator. Then it should click back down on the spline and when the bowl is turned the agitator will turn also.
4. Check that the pressure tube has not come off and that it is not kinked. Undo 2 screws behind the display and check the clear plastic tube is connected to motor controller with no kinks. You may need to pull the lid off to lift the front display up
5. Rotor Position Sensor faulty .. Replace the Rotor Position Sensor.
6. Replace the Motor Control Module.
Mine does that
I need help I can't figure out the codes please help
What's the code?
Paul P ik if I send u a video can u help
Put a video on UA-cam and send me the link. I'll see if I can help
Ive never heard of these machines, I take it they are made in the UK? This machine appears to be fairly new, it uses a stepper motor, the sensor you replaced failed way before its time! Also, you should have placed a cloth of an old Towel on the floor before you turned the washer side down, you could scratch of damage the cabinet.
Not sure whether your comment is meant for this video?
They are made in NZ.
and it wasn't a sensor that fail but the cold solenoid valve, neither did he turn the washer upside down. hahahaha
when i turn mine on just spins but slowly and wont fill or nothing just spins thats all
When it's filling it should rotate slowly. If the filters are blocked in the hoses it will just rotate only. Check the filters at each end of the hoses. Also the filter inside where the hose connects to the machine. They need to be removed with pliers. Try a hot wash and see if water goes in. The water valves can also seize shut. Hope this helps. Let me know and we'll go from there.
+Paul P ok i got going now the problem is that when is about to rinse, the lid swich ligth blinks and also the ligth that is on top of the rinse blinks and beeps, if i push start, keeps going, and they stops again, is like pause by it self
This is from the handbook....
Lid Lock LED Flashing This warning is generated if the electronics have detected that the lid has not been closed. 1. Check that the tang on the lid is not bent or broken. 2. If the lid is closed and the tang is ok, replace the lid-lock assembly
+Paul P thank you, you think can i bypass it ? like kenmore and whirlpool lid swiches? just to see if thats tje problem?
I hope this helps
ua-cam.com/video/EdnH90GGOcs/v-deo.html