Yes. 1) Oil the derailleur pivots before mounting, 2) grease the hanger bolt when refitting, 3) set the limit screws by eye before fitting the chain, 4) clean and grease the cable, and housing if reusing.
I didn't have a chain tool , so I just took the cogs off the Derailleur , shit was bit of a nightmare . Had no idea what I was doing . Had a washer somewhere it shouldn't of been and the bolt wasn't biting . Took me 2 hours to figure out what was going on lol . I'm a middle aged man , so when I got off the ground it felt like I had done something to my back . The lighting was so bad all I could see was like black shapes , I guess I learnt something tho . Much easier if you bolt the derailleur on the bike before attempting what I was doing lol . I need a wine after that shit , I'm half way there lol . The derailleur cost me like 30 dollars , hate to imagine how much it would of costed to get fixed at the bike shop .
None of the derailleur tuning videos ever mentioned the importance of the angle the derailleur needs to be on the hanger. If not proper the unit rubs up against the frame in ninth gear, causing the chain to jump because no amount of tuning will correct the problem until the derailleur is free to move.
This! I came here because my hanger bolt came loose and I didn't know where the derailleur was supposed to hang. Indeed now when I shift to the highest gear, everything rubs and is unusable. No help in this video
Since no one answered the correct answer is the hanger has a tab that has to be touching another tab on the derailuer the specific hanger you have should have directions making it clear
Great video! I purchased a bike online and the rear wheel and derailleur arrived detached. This video and others by GCN were very helpful for learning the basics and understanding the various parts of the bike. Thanks!
Thanks found out what I needed to know quickly, clearly and precisely. Been a long time since I messed about with derailiers needed to refresh the old grey cells.
Well then it's not a quick link... The entire theme behind the name suggests it's function. If it's not coming apart by squeezing than it's not a quick link. Youll need a chain breaker.
This is a decent video -- you can make it better by showing common out-of-normal configurations along with what they sound like when pedaling / shifting then showing how to resolve the issue via adjustments (and showing the alignment of the pulley with the cassette would go a long way to doing that as well).
Omg thanks so much! I thought for sure I was gonna die not understanding this. 😅 It's so easy once you get it. I can now check this one off my bucket list.
I have roved my derailleur from my old mountain bike but not from my road bike. Hopefully I won't have to be removing any derailleurs for a while because I got a new road bike yesterday 😁😁 Great video guys thanks
really should have mentioned ensuring the b-adjustment is behind the lug on the hanger when attaching to the hanger. . This is the one thing i keep forgetting to do, and risks badly damaging the derailleur and hanger; would have taken 10-15s max.
If your derailleur was bent, have a check on your geardrop (The metal plate the deraileur is attached to). That is probably bent too, and will make shifting bad.
Like fullintriff, i would say to change you derailleur hanger ! soshanger.com can help you if you need one. I bent my hanger few month ago, the Dura-ace looks good hopefully !! the hanger is a piece build to bent before the derailleur to protect it. Maybe your 105 is totaly ok and it was just the hanger... (25€/$/£)
is the new derailleur got the same cage length? What gear should you have it on. What angle do you attach it at? Great explanation on the high low limits and tensioning.
Too many omissions and/or mistakes. On the top of my head: Re-using quick links may be a no-go depending on manufacturer; some chains are directional, as are some quick links; (low) limit screw position can be influenced by cable tension; front chainring position not mentioned in relation to indexing; no crimping of the now exposed cable end, which is now going to fray. Could also mention: What to do if there's no quick link; why would I do this in the first instance; possibility of faulty mech hanger; compatibility of different rear derailleurs.
I suppose so, still I have always had reusable quick links. The crimping of the cable end was definitely important. Second was getting a well adjusted cable tension before setting the limit screw. The rest didn’t bother me too much, however, as this wasn’t a video on indexing your gears, per se.
What got me was the phrase "adjust it like so" ok if you know what you're doing but for someone who doesn't, "like so" is far too vague, what made it worse was not showing the adjustment of the b screw.
You should fit a new gear cable while your there, and ensure the gear shifter is set to the highest gear (smallest cog on the cassette) before tensioning the cable..also screw in shifter and derailler barrell adjusters to within a few rotations before tensioning the gear cable by hand.Compatability of the derailler and shifter is crucial ,too, and therefore match shimano with shimano / sram with sram etc.A usesful tip for old bikes is to straighten a bent derailler hanger with a vice grips if needed ..after this the derailler may not thread easilly, so, temporarily fit the derailler on the inside of the 'hanger' to 'tap' the hanger threads.
Thanks so much for your video. GNC Tech is the best! I watch many of your videos. I ran into a problem. I am rebuilding an older bike, a Raleigh Olympian that was made in the 1990's or earlier. The Rear Derailleur on that bike does not use a 5MM bolt. That means I had to put the original one back on. I have a nice Shimano Rear Derailleur, but it uses a 5MM bolt. Am I just stuck using the older Derailleur? Bummer.
When you replace the derailleur, before you torque it up it's worth making sure you haven't crushed anything behind it on the inside, there's sometimes a B limit screw hidden away there depending on the design
Have to say but Park tool did this so much better. The video was just "too short" because it skipped so many little steps that are critical in removing frustration. Maybe a LBS can swap a rear derailleur in 6:56...but your viewers, I doubt can.
im a little confused with this video... setting L Limit screw without checking the indexation before : it's a NO for me ! park tool tuto : ua-cam.com/video/UkZxPIZ1ngY/v-deo.html easy, well explain, good filming.
I have that exact 105 rear mech. Can i use it w/ my Tiagra 9sp shifter. I really hate my SORA rear mech. Shimano decided to discontinue all high end 9sp rear mechs. Thanks Shimano.
I hadn't planned on replacing a rear derailleur, but when my new bike arrived i opened the carton, took the front wheel in the house to repack the bearings, went back outside to grab the rest of my bike to do the other ehrrl and bb, and as I was carrying it up the porch lost my balance and when the bike hit concrete it bounced on the rear dropout and derailleur. Bent the dropout back in place (steel frame) The derailleur was a cheap one and pretty beat up, so I ordered a new one and its sitting here next to me. Looks pretty simple.
I needed to do this a couple of weeks ago but I chickened out...I figured I would get half way through it and be stuck with a half disassembled bike on my floor so I took it in and got it done for $94.00 here in Toronto... :)
How tight should the rd be screwed in? I'll also be replacing the dropout. How tight should the screws be? And should i grease the threads of both the dropout screws and rd?
Literally just removed mine to take it apart, clean and regrease and reasemble then reinstall it. I wasn't sure which anti-seize to use but after a little research decided to use nickel as it's recommended for use on Ti, which my frame uses. But any of them would probably work. The only hitch was being unable to use a torque wrench because my 5mm allen socket isn't long enough to go all the way in to my Campy Centaur rear derailleur, so I guessed as best as I could. It only calls for 11ft-lb or torque so no big deal.
if you need to set up your rear derailleur, Park tool make a better video than this one wich is an abstract... ua-cam.com/video/UkZxPIZ1ngY/v-deo.html I usually like GCN videos but this one is too short ! Quick link may be not reusable (majority of case!), indexation should be done before L-limit screw,... Alex can do it because he has experience (10/15 years of experience ?) but if you are not a pro tech, a mistake can cost you a rear derailleur and spokes !
You need to feed the chain through the gate in the derailleur. But another way to do it without breaking the chain is to undo the bolt holding the lower jockey wheel and slip that wheel out to make room for the chain to slip through the gap between the two cheeks of the derailleur (then reinsert the jockey wheel of course).
I changed mine on Saturday - this is OK but I found here better ua-cam.com/video/3trytNwpgLk/v-deo.html - the good tip was to adjust HIGH/LOW/B before putting the chain & cable on/in! Start 1:53 in . He gives some great advice on the finer points of setup & what to watch out for - e.g. watching out for the lug at the back (Shimano) when attaching to the hanger, 3:30 - adjust HIGH/LOW/B, 4:47 - attach cable, 10:25 - 19:54 fine adjustments for perfect finish - 25:10 now snip the new cable.
What can I do to replace my long cage, messed up Shimano Tourney RD-TX71 rear derailleur, when the part has been discontinued by the manufacturer? It if for a 21 speed bike. And I need a chain to go with it. Any help anyone could give would be appreciated.
Speaking of RDs... Any experiences with shiftmates? :) Got a setup that should theoretically work (Tiagra 4600, Deore m5120, 11-34), and as much as it does shift, I believe I am missing something.
I usually put it in whatever ring I ride in the most , I have a dual suspension mongoose pro wing elite , and just picked up a Schwinn Axum with a bent derailleur.
Are you guys paying Google for my search results or something. Every time I am looking for ways of doing soemthing on my bike you guys make a great video about it. :)
Does anyone know why when I remove rear shimano derailleur there's so much pressure on the body towards the end of removal also it seems the b screw is on with tension and the whole thing will snap on removal. Is that normal?
#Askgcn what makes a winter training tyre, a winter training tyre, and some i have seen looks just like the "Normal" tyre as in the tread is the same. is it the compound? extra puncture protection etc? as i run schwalbe pro one's i contacted schwalbe and they said " n terms of grip, the Pro One TLE’s will be ideal. However… In terms of puncture protection and a level of durability that many people require from a road tyre to use through winter, we make other tyres that are more suitable for sure. Perhaps the best compromise between an out and out race tyre, and a dedicated winter trainer tyre, is the Schwalbe One…" but the tread pattern looks the same, in my mind a winter tyre would have a different pattern, bit like car tyres do. thanks
#AskGCNtech I’m wondering if I need to change my rear derailleur if I’m changing my cassette from a 11-34 to 11-28? I’ve got a Trek Domane AL5 Disc (Shinano 105 groupset)
No, this works perfectly fine. As long as they are both 11 speed (or 10 for some). Your only difference will be your derailleur cage size and if you are never going back up to a 34 then you can change this for a smaller cage. A bit of weight saving, otherwise it will all work perfectly.
You should also adjust your B limit screw to bring the derailleur closer to the largest cog. (See at about 5:25 in the video.) You don’t strictly have to do this, but it will make gear changes a bit sharper.
Shimano and SRAM have a much greater share of the market. Very few complete bikes come supplied with a Campagnolo groupset. Most people with Campagnolo will be accomplished bike mechanics already, or will use a Campagnolo specialist dealer/mechanic for service / repairs. Having said that, the basic concept is the same across all brands in regards to mechanical shifting, just some (Campagnolo in particular) use proprietary tools and standards for their products.
I have just bought my first frame to build up (after 20 years of riding). My skills are basic to say the least. Ultegra on the way - mechanical as I’m low tech so this will be useful. Time to watch how to get the cables through the frame again 😂
hmmm, re-usable quick link? not all of them are re-usable (in fact I'm pretty sure all the manufacturers would say not for obvious reasons). Also I thought it was easiest to set the high and low limit screws without the cable attached (see previous GCN Tech video from 4 or 5 years ago, this is the method I've always followed). Also could mention about taking the opportunity to check derailleur hanger straight, alignment, wax chain. And click down the gears one at a time when going for the low limit screw otherwise you might find the chain flies off the cassette and into spokes. All in all a 5/10 must try harder.
Have you ever removed your rear derailleur? Let us know in the comments below!
the one time it was removed,was the time where it got ripped off
Do a video on how to remove your rear cassette gear
Yes. 1) Oil the derailleur pivots before mounting, 2) grease the hanger bolt when refitting, 3) set the limit screws by eye before fitting the chain, 4) clean and grease the cable, and housing if reusing.
Intentionally??
Yes. Every time I pack my bike for travel.
I didn't have a chain tool , so I just took the cogs off the Derailleur , shit was bit of a nightmare . Had no idea what I was doing . Had a washer somewhere it shouldn't of been and the bolt wasn't biting . Took me 2 hours to figure out what was going on lol . I'm a middle aged man , so when I got off the ground it felt like I had done something to my back . The lighting was so bad all I could see was like black shapes , I guess I learnt something tho . Much easier if you bolt the derailleur on the bike before attempting what I was doing lol . I need a wine after that shit , I'm half way there lol . The derailleur cost me like 30 dollars , hate to imagine how much it would of costed to get fixed at the bike shop .
None of the derailleur tuning videos ever mentioned the importance of the angle the derailleur needs to be on the hanger. If not proper the unit rubs up against the frame in ninth gear, causing the chain to jump because no amount of tuning will correct the problem until the derailleur is free to move.
This! I came here because my hanger bolt came loose and I didn't know where the derailleur was supposed to hang. Indeed now when I shift to the highest gear, everything rubs and is unusable. No help in this video
Looking for exactly this…
So what's correct lol
Amazon alignment tool is 35 bucks
Since no one answered the correct answer is the hanger has a tab that has to be touching another tab on the derailuer the specific hanger you have should have directions making it clear
Thank you so much!!! After hours of messing around your five minute video got my MTB all dialed in :)
Don't forget to fit a new cable end cap on! You would't be the first with a puncture wound in hand or fingers because of some unraveled sharp cables!
Great video! I purchased a bike online and the rear wheel and derailleur arrived detached. This video and others by GCN were very helpful for learning the basics and understanding the various parts of the bike. Thanks!
thank you. this is so much more clear instructions than the park tool one. :)
After years of cycling you still learn something new from videos like this.. thank you GCN Tech
New at bikes my difficulty was putting the chain and derailleur on . This film really helped thank you😂
I have to comment. I watched so many tutorials on how to change derailler and only just now finally understood! Thank you so much for that video. ❤🎉❤❤
Thanks found out what I needed to know quickly, clearly and precisely. Been a long time since I messed about with derailiers needed to refresh the old grey cells.
Drop to bottom sprocket before removing!
Maybe clever to also mention the fact not all quicklinks are re-usable. I''ve snapped two whilst climbing out the saddle before I learned this.
Well then it's not a quick link... The entire theme behind the name suggests it's function. If it's not coming apart by squeezing than it's not a quick link. Youll need a chain breaker.
@@mikehunt8375 Read my comment again.
This is a decent video -- you can make it better by showing common out-of-normal configurations along with what they sound like when pedaling / shifting then showing how to resolve the issue via adjustments (and showing the alignment of the pulley with the cassette would go a long way to doing that as well).
The best one of the teaching course
Omg thanks so much! I thought for sure I was gonna die not understanding this. 😅 It's so easy once you get it. I can now check this one off my bucket list.
I have roved my derailleur from my old mountain bike but not from my road bike. Hopefully I won't have to be removing any derailleurs for a while because I got a new road bike yesterday 😁😁
Great video guys thanks
Very well explained.
Takes the confusion away !
Thanks !!
really should have mentioned ensuring the b-adjustment is behind the lug on the hanger when attaching to the hanger. . This is the one thing i keep forgetting to do, and risks badly damaging the derailleur and hanger; would have taken 10-15s max.
came here to ask about this. this is my question. at what position do i tighten the derailleur onto the hanger. is there a video explaining this?
Thank you so much for the video, keep up the great work.🙏💪
I removed my 105 rear derailleur because it was bent and then replaced it.
If your derailleur was bent, have a check on your geardrop (The metal plate the deraileur is attached to). That is probably bent too, and will make shifting bad.
Like fullintriff, i would say to change you derailleur hanger ! soshanger.com can help you if you need one.
I bent my hanger few month ago, the Dura-ace looks good hopefully !! the hanger is a piece build to bent before the derailleur to protect it. Maybe your 105 is totaly ok and it was just the hanger... (25€/$/£)
@@bossebo3535 broke a derailleur a few weeks ago because of this, excited to finally learn a new part of the bike and how to fix it
is the new derailleur got the same cage length? What gear should you have it on. What angle do you attach it at? Great explanation on the high low limits and tensioning.
An excellent video.. Now, to get myself in trouble.
Too many omissions and/or mistakes. On the top of my head: Re-using quick links may be a no-go depending on manufacturer; some chains are directional, as are some quick links; (low) limit screw position can be influenced by cable tension; front chainring position not mentioned in relation to indexing; no crimping of the now exposed cable end, which is now going to fray.
Could also mention: What to do if there's no quick link; why would I do this in the first instance; possibility of faulty mech hanger; compatibility of different rear derailleurs.
I suppose so, still I have always had reusable quick links. The crimping of the cable end was definitely important. Second was getting a well adjusted cable tension before setting the limit screw. The rest didn’t bother me too much, however, as this wasn’t a video on indexing your gears, per se.
What got me was the phrase "adjust it like so" ok if you know what you're doing but for someone who doesn't, "like so" is far too vague, what made it worse was not showing the adjustment of the b screw.
You should fit a new gear cable while your there, and ensure the gear shifter is set to the highest gear (smallest cog on the cassette) before tensioning the cable..also screw in shifter and derailler barrell adjusters to within a few rotations before tensioning the gear cable by hand.Compatability of the derailler and shifter is crucial ,too, and therefore match shimano with shimano / sram with sram etc.A usesful tip for old bikes is to straighten a bent derailler hanger with a vice grips if needed ..after this the derailler may not thread easilly, so, temporarily fit the derailler on the inside of the 'hanger' to 'tap' the hanger threads.
Very helpful!! Thank you
Thank you
Very thorough instructions
Thanks so much for your video. GNC Tech is the best! I watch many of your videos. I ran into a problem. I am rebuilding an older bike, a Raleigh Olympian that was made in the 1990's or earlier. The Rear Derailleur on that bike does not use a 5MM bolt. That means I had to put the original one back on. I have a nice Shimano Rear Derailleur, but it uses a 5MM bolt. Am I just stuck using the older Derailleur? Bummer.
Thanks man after watching your video i finally understand 🎉
When you replace the derailleur, before you torque it up it's worth making sure you haven't crushed anything behind it on the inside, there's sometimes a B limit screw hidden away there depending on the design
Very handy, thanks.
I’d change the gear cable too if I install a new rear derailleur
Hmmmm you make it look so easy! I would be there for 3 days! Totally screw it up and have to call my mech mate! 😂
Have to say but Park tool did this so much better. The video was just "too short" because it skipped so many little steps that are critical in removing frustration. Maybe a LBS can swap a rear derailleur in 6:56...but your viewers, I doubt can.
im a little confused with this video... setting L Limit screw without checking the indexation before : it's a NO for me !
park tool tuto : ua-cam.com/video/UkZxPIZ1ngY/v-deo.html
easy, well explain, good filming.
Thank you very much ! 🤠
do you need to have the chain in a certain gear before removing the chain
I have that exact 105 rear mech. Can i use it w/ my Tiagra 9sp shifter. I really hate my SORA rear mech.
Shimano decided to discontinue all high end 9sp rear mechs. Thanks Shimano.
This is great, thank you 🙂
Cheers legend!
I hadn't planned on replacing a rear derailleur, but when my new bike arrived i opened the carton, took the front wheel in the house to repack the bearings, went back outside to grab the rest of my bike to do the other ehrrl and bb, and as I was carrying it up the porch lost my balance and when the bike hit concrete it bounced on the rear dropout and derailleur.
Bent the dropout back in place (steel frame)
The derailleur was a cheap one and pretty beat up, so I ordered a new one and its sitting here next to me.
Looks pretty simple.
think i'll just take mine the shop!!
Great video
How do you find the Orca? Seen it in a few vids now. Would be good to see a review of it as there isn’t any online! Great work guys.
Replaced a derailleur day before yesterday...(another broken sram unit)...this video would've been handy.
I needed to do this a couple of weeks ago but I chickened out...I figured I would get half way through it and be stuck with a half disassembled bike on my floor so I took it in and got it done for $94.00 here in Toronto... :)
Thank you, the video was a great help.
Park tool videos are the best by far, by far. Thanks!
when you attach the derailleur to the hanger how do you know what the angle should be before tightening the bolt
Thank you!
5:05 Tommy Cooper impression 😁
How tight should the rd be screwed in? I'll also be replacing the dropout. How tight should the screws be? And should i grease the threads of both the dropout screws and rd?
Thanks you so much
You're most welcome!
Good video
Make it look so easy ! Bike shop work only. My brains fried
Thank you
Please make a video on how to bleed brakes.
They already did bruh
Can someone tell me what tools is needed for fitting a deralier for the first time? Thanks
Literally just removed mine to take it apart, clean and regrease and reasemble then reinstall it. I wasn't sure which anti-seize to use but after a little research decided to use nickel as it's recommended for use on Ti, which my frame uses. But any of them would probably work.
The only hitch was being unable to use a torque wrench because my 5mm allen socket isn't long enough to go all the way in to my Campy Centaur rear derailleur, so I guessed as best as I could. It only calls for 11ft-lb or torque so no big deal.
No discussion of setting the stops screws before installing the chain?
My Shimano derailleur has two nubs on the side facing the bike. The bike has one nub. Should I assume the one nub should fit between the two?
What year was this bike made
Is all shimano standard derailers this easy? Are the mechanical ones all the same?
I haven't removed it but i cant get it to change to the first smallest cog..
I replaced my rear derailleur last night so thanks... I guess
if you need to set up your rear derailleur, Park tool make a better video than this one wich is an abstract... ua-cam.com/video/UkZxPIZ1ngY/v-deo.html
I usually like GCN videos but this one is too short ! Quick link may be not reusable (majority of case!), indexation should be done before L-limit screw,...
Alex can do it because he has experience (10/15 years of experience ?) but if you are not a pro tech, a mistake can cost you a rear derailleur and spokes !
0:57 I don't have a freshly painted frame, can I skip this step?
why do you need to remove the chain ?
You need to feed the chain through the gate in the derailleur. But another way to do it without breaking the chain is to undo the bolt holding the lower jockey wheel and slip that wheel out to make room for the chain to slip through the gap between the two cheeks of the derailleur (then reinsert the jockey wheel of course).
Nice haircut! 🤓
I changed mine on Saturday - this is OK but I found here better ua-cam.com/video/3trytNwpgLk/v-deo.html - the good tip was to adjust HIGH/LOW/B before putting the chain & cable on/in! Start 1:53 in . He gives some great advice on the finer points of setup & what to watch out for - e.g. watching out for the lug at the back (Shimano) when attaching to the hanger, 3:30 - adjust HIGH/LOW/B, 4:47 - attach cable, 10:25 - 19:54 fine adjustments for perfect finish - 25:10 now snip the new cable.
Yeah, I tend to find GCN vids way too fast and undetailed
Is it ok to use MTB Rd On A Road Bike
I have Sram force and I can't find the rear shifter cable.
This Is nice
What can I do to replace my long cage, messed up Shimano Tourney RD-TX71 rear derailleur, when the part has been discontinued by the manufacturer? It if for a 21 speed bike. And I need a chain to go with it. Any help anyone could give would be appreciated.
Speaking of RDs... Any experiences with shiftmates? :) Got a setup that should theoretically work (Tiagra 4600, Deore m5120, 11-34), and as much as it does shift, I believe I am missing something.
So should the front chainring be in the small ring up front for the H and L limit adjusting?
I usually put it in whatever ring I ride in the most , I have a dual suspension mongoose pro wing elite , and just picked up a Schwinn Axum with a bent derailleur.
What if you don't have a barrel adjustor
Are you guys paying Google for my search results or something. Every time I am looking for ways of doing soemthing on my bike you guys make a great video about it. :)
Does anyone know why when I remove rear shimano derailleur there's so much pressure on the body towards the end of removal also it seems the b screw is on with tension and the whole thing will snap on removal. Is that normal?
#Askgcn what makes a winter training tyre, a winter training tyre, and some i have seen looks just like the "Normal" tyre as in the tread is the same. is it the compound? extra puncture protection etc? as i run schwalbe pro one's i contacted schwalbe and they said " n terms of grip, the Pro One TLE’s will be ideal.
However… In terms of puncture protection and a level of durability that many people require from a road tyre to use through winter, we make other tyres that are more suitable for sure. Perhaps the best compromise between an out and out race tyre, and a dedicated winter trainer tyre, is the Schwalbe One…" but the tread pattern looks the same, in my mind a winter tyre would have a different pattern, bit like car tyres do. thanks
MMM........... shouldn't the quick link be changed as well. ?
#AskGCNtech I’m wondering if I need to change my rear derailleur if I’m changing my cassette from a 11-34 to 11-28?
I’ve got a Trek Domane AL5 Disc (Shinano 105 groupset)
No, this works perfectly fine. As long as they are both 11 speed (or 10 for some). Your only difference will be your derailleur cage size and if you are never going back up to a 34 then you can change this for a smaller cage. A bit of weight saving, otherwise it will all work perfectly.
Maybe you have to shorten your chain.
You should also adjust your B limit screw to bring the derailleur closer to the largest cog. (See at about 5:25 in the video.) You don’t strictly have to do this, but it will make gear changes a bit sharper.
Don't you put grease befor fixing the Derailleur ?
no need for separate the chain actually.. it can be done without it ;)
Just broke the derailleur. Don't think my mum is going to be too happy about it.
Why do they never include campag? The set up is I believe slightly different. Not everyone uses shimano
Shimano and SRAM have a much greater share of the market. Very few complete bikes come supplied with a Campagnolo groupset. Most people with Campagnolo will be accomplished bike mechanics already, or will use a Campagnolo specialist dealer/mechanic for service / repairs. Having said that, the basic concept is the same across all brands in regards to mechanical shifting, just some (Campagnolo in particular) use proprietary tools and standards for their products.
Has anyone ever messed with a tq one torque drive system derailleur?
I have just bought my first frame to build up (after 20 years of riding). My skills are basic to say the least.
Ultegra on the way - mechanical as I’m low tech so this will be useful.
Time to watch how to get the cables through the frame again 😂
Being fluent in “profanity” usually helps :)
I just realized something. All these guys on GNC are British. I was under the false assumption that they were French.
hmmm, re-usable quick link? not all of them are re-usable (in fact I'm pretty sure all the manufacturers would say not for obvious reasons). Also I thought it was easiest to set the high and low limit screws without the cable attached (see previous GCN Tech video from 4 or 5 years ago, this is the method I've always followed). Also could mention about taking the opportunity to check derailleur hanger straight, alignment, wax chain. And click down the gears one at a time when going for the low limit screw otherwise you might find the chain flies off the cassette and into spokes. All in all a 5/10 must try harder.
My derailleur doesn't look like that
ok cool but WHY do we want to remove it?
Upgrade, traveling, maintenance (like change a hanger)...
reason i wont buy a wolftooth quick liknk tool: the market will make a better smaller one next year
"don't get the chain on your newly painted frame", what pity the derailleur has to be changed so soon.
Wot no torque wrench...
You don't even need to remove the chain why you just have to do is remove one of the sprockets
#useful
I only ride tandem so this video is not applicable. What is a 🚲 ⛓️
Shalom
#TGFamily
WHATS A DARAILLIA
Who’s he?
Quick link is cheating. I didn't learn anything.