While it may seem apparent to most, for those using quick link pliers for the first time, it may be useful to demonstrate the correct way to use them. When breaking the chain you squeeze the pliers. When joining a chain, you ideally want to use both hands to push the plier arms away from each other. For both breaking and joining, the jaws of the pliers should attach to each side of the quick link.
I want to use a quick link for the first time. So do I need to shorten my chain by one link shorter than usual? My chain has 117 links. With a quick link, do I have to cut my chain at 116? Im confused. Sorry for the question
Thanks for yet another informative video! Just changed my chain for the first time and wandering why I've been paying the bike shop to do it all these years! Cost aside, took me less time than the one way trip to my bike mechanic!
i needed this. I picked a bike up from my friends last year and the chain is totally rusted. I bought a replacement chain and have been very hesitant to go at it without a good tutorial. Thank you!
while threading the chain around the jockey Wheels, you failed to mention to watch out for making sure the chain is on the correct side of the metal bracket that's between them. I can see that you're physically doing it, but only because I know it's there, there's no close-up of that in the video sequence and it's not verbally mentioned. I've made this mistake this myself multiple times, even having made the mistake in the past and even after noting that it's there as I'm taking the chain off. You should also make a note at the end of the video to check that it's on the correct side of that bracket if it sounds like the chain is making a lot of excess noise. other than choosing the wrong type of chain, this is really the only part of changing a chain that you can screw up and probably the most common mistake, and you didn't even mention it.
cant figure out what you mean. my rear derailer on my trek domane road bike has the bracket inbetween the two jockey wheels, im not sure where i could wrong. just trying not to make any mistakes doing this first time
It's probably a thing that everybody knows but I just figured out that the "useless" hooks on the other side of the chain checker are intended to hold the chain together when you're installing a link or a pin. Just mentioning because some videos show the "traditional" piece-of-wire trick - while you have probably measured your chain with one of these tools before replacing, anyway. Might not be the ultra-hack with pins and most newer quick-links which hook up the chain anyway but I found it very useful on my commuters 7-speed Shimano chain which comes with these unbearable QL that require the chain to be bent - and that's a lot easier if it's not under tension or risk of the chain snapping apart.
You should also mention that if your chain is moderately worn you may have to change your cassette too. A new chain on a old cassette causes skipping on the gears that you use the most, and no amount of RD adjustment can solve that
What exactly are you looking for to know that your cassette is worn out? The teeth on a Shimano Ultegra cassette all look different even on a new cassette.
@@francoisrouviere Symptoms are when the teeth itself are "pointy", a bit like a shark's fin and the grooves between the teeth are more like squared with round edges than round but I haven't seen that in real life. Bad shifting and excessive noise are always a symptom, though.
When you have these quick connectors, and you've started waxing your chain every 350/500 k, do you need a new connector. Do you use a new connector every time you rewax your existing chain.
Best not to push out the joining pin, especially if you’re going to be putting the chain back on. The joining pin is designed to fit a hole that’s been loosened by having the old pin pushed out. Choose a pin on a different link, and push that put instead. If you’re re-connecting it with a new connecting pin, it’ll be weaker if it’s already had the extra tight joining pin pushed out.
Top bike maintenance tip: listen to your bike while riding it. New or different sound? Check it out. You can hear worn brake pads, misalined deraillers, worn bearings etc. before you see it.
In my opinion you did not mention the most important thing - how to calculate correctly the pins for the new chain. My fabric chain was too short, I always use a calculator instead of putting it side by side with the old one since then
If you're replacing a worn chain, it will be longer than the new chain. You need to count the links in order to get a new chain that is the same length as the original chain when it was new.
Thanks alex. Been looking to learn this. Where does a chain with a quick link usually break? Wondering if thats a recoverable mechanical on a ride. Thanks
Very helpful, specially because it seems I'll need to prematurely change my chain. For some reason, with just about 600 or 700km on it, and quite suddenly, it's almost completely gone, according to the wear gauge. I bought the gauge less than two months ago, it was fine, today it's almost gone ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Why can't we just have published numbers of pins in the chain so we know exactly what the sizes should be? For eg, do you know how many pins (count the quick link as pins too, pls) a 7 speed Shimano should be? After greasing my chain doesn't hold to pull. This one might be the wrong size to start with, before I copy the mistake.
When i once rode a racing formula roadbikes.... my chain missinglink, (any chainlink) is replaced by a bolting link... a hallow tube and a screwpin... . And i realized before 15yrs ago.. that it will never let you down while in a tromendos sprint duel will monster sprinter.. . Zero chance of breaking your chain.. wheather you plays your shifting gear...randomly.. ..
Nice video but too much hassel for me. I just go to my bike shop and they change it for me when the time for replacing comes around. It's that easy for me 🙂
i have a 10 speed mtb. recently my chain broke. I got new chain install but the smallest gear cassette (11T) will jump.. Do I have to replace this 11teeth? Thanks
The best way to measure is count the links on the chain you are replacing since a heavily worn chain can “stretch” and you’ll be putting a longer chain on by as much as a couple links.
Not all old chains are sized correctly. As a shop mechanic, I've seen a handful of incorrectly sized chains before I size and install new ones, usually a pair of links or two too long. One common mistake is not ensuring the B-tension gap is correct.
Well…..a worn chain of 118 links and a 1% stretch is longer than a 119 links new chain. I know. It was on my bike. I had to change the casette and chain wheel any way. So I kept riding with the worn parts. I’ve never seen a chain with 2% strech. Making it longer as long a new 120 links chain.
... quick tip ... most times I use my "car bike rack" as my bike stand ... (Note: I do have a Park Bike stand too ... but usually it is buried in the garage ... HaHa )
that's what the chain gauge is for. when the chain gauge shows out of tolerance that's when you change the chain. as you say how soon depends on the conditions youre riding in, the amount you ride and how clean and lubricated you keep the drivetrain. if you ride a lot I would at least check it once a week after the first couple of months. like a lot of PreFlight practices though, it's probably a good idea to develop a habit of checking it... the problem is it can be a long time between chain changes, so if you're not in the habit of checking it can be easy to forget to check at all, and as usually happens to me by the time you realize your sprockets are too messed up to put a new chain onto, my commute is about 20 mi/32 km a day and I go through about 2 to 3 chains a year, but I also go through chainrings and cassettes that could be avoided if I remembered to check the chain more often. (thinking about it though, my yearly bicycle costs: the cost of replacing the drivetrain three times a year as well as any other maintenance, is STILL less than a year of insurance for a car, nevermind other automobile related expenses.)
I’ve been having the hardest time replacing my chain. Got the right speed, though the bike store sold me a SRAM for my Shimano. Super stiff..some links barely move. It wouldn’t go around the derailleur. I tried removing that link and replacing it (which was really hard) and it’s still stiff. I’m so stuck for something that should be simple. And I kept reading that it’s good to remove the wax/ that comes on the chain, so I did that too, thinking it would make the stiff link work, it didn’t. Plus, the quick link was hard to link on…I’m so irritated
You can swap Shimano and sram. Sometimes the new chain has protective tough factory grease on it. Just lube it with a thin oil and go riding. When there is a specific stiff link, just wiggle it from left to right to create some space in the link. Hope that will do the trick.
Has anyone had an issue with the side plates on a Shimano 105 11 speed chain splitting/cracking? I had a chain break yesterday and had to fit a quick link but noticed the cracks when I got home and had to bike up on the stand for some maintenance. 😱
@@nluisa yeah, I understand the factory coating is great for protecting the chain while packaged but it will be a magnet for grit after you install the chain so cleaning and lubing properly is a great idea 👍🏼
@@PrzemyslawSliwinski None that I've noticed. Quick links are good for people who like to clean and wax/lube their chains off the bike. A regular quick link should be okay for a handful of remove/installs before it becomes too loose for safety. I have a Connex quick link on my chains; the kind that do not need a quick link tool to remove or install and last for much longer. No problems.
@@fredsirvalo1904 ThnX! That's my observations too. I've been using the KMC chains and their quick links (three at once - in a tandem) for almost two years now. And yes, there is no excuse for having dirt chains.
Is it possible to exchange a joining pin with a joining quick link? (Shimano Ultrgra / CN-HG701) Or do I have to replace the joint with the same system after removing it? Thanks!
Thanks, that’s good to know. My new Canyon came with the mentioned Shimano chain and no quick links. I prefer removing the chain for cleaning and in my opinion that’s easier done with quick links.
@@phistr7066 Then it's no wonder yours came with a pin instead because yours was factory-installed and yes, dismantling and rejoining a chain for deep cleaning purposes is much easier with quick-links unless you have a bunch of spare chain pins.
Hello help: If you change a Ultegra chain, do you have to change to a new cassette, The existing cassette is 8000k old , no rain ... no sand ... no dirt ever... Why do mechanics have such diverse opinions on cassette replacements ?
This isn't how to join a Campagnolo 11speed or newer chain. The only chains I use on my Campagnolo equipped road bikes and my Shimano equipped gravel and fat bike are Campagnolo Record 11 speed chains even though my Fat bike is only 10 speed an 11 speed chain works great there
Do you have any top bike maintenance tips of your own? 👇
Get a new toilet brush . The long, hard bristles is perfect for getting into the cassete and getting dirt out
Yeah, get a car 😉
Iv got old chain with no link and iv managed to put it back together when it snapped not snapped since
While it may seem apparent to most, for those using quick link pliers for the first time, it may be useful to demonstrate the correct way to use them.
When breaking the chain you squeeze the pliers. When joining a chain, you ideally want to use both hands to push the plier arms away from each other. For both breaking and joining, the jaws of the pliers should attach to each side of the quick link.
I want to use a quick link for the first time. So do I need to shorten my chain by one link shorter than usual? My chain has 117 links. With a quick link, do I have to cut my chain at 116? Im confused. Sorry for the question
If the chain needs replacing, surely the cassette would need changing otherwise the links would just skip over the teeth.
Didn't need to check my chain wear, it's broken in two in the bin :)
I always look forward to a new video from Otto
Thanks for yet another informative video! Just changed my chain for the first time and wandering why I've been paying the bike shop to do it all these years! Cost aside, took me less time than the one way trip to my bike mechanic!
i needed this. I picked a bike up from my friends last year and the chain is totally rusted. I bought a replacement chain and have been very hesitant to go at it without a good tutorial. Thank you!
Great to see Nick back on the Channel!
while threading the chain around the jockey Wheels, you failed to mention to watch out for making sure the chain is on the correct side of the metal bracket that's between them. I can see that you're physically doing it, but only because I know it's there, there's no close-up of that in the video sequence and it's not verbally mentioned. I've made this mistake this myself multiple times, even having made the mistake in the past and even after noting that it's there as I'm taking the chain off.
You should also make a note at the end of the video to check that it's on the correct side of that bracket if it sounds like the chain is making a lot of excess noise.
other than choosing the wrong type of chain, this is really the only part of changing a chain that you can screw up and probably the most common mistake, and you didn't even mention it.
cant figure out what you mean. my rear derailer on my trek domane road bike has the bracket inbetween the two jockey wheels, im not sure where i could wrong. just trying not to make any mistakes doing this first time
It's probably a thing that everybody knows but I just figured out that the "useless" hooks on the other side of the chain checker are intended to hold the chain together when you're installing a link or a pin. Just mentioning because some videos show the "traditional" piece-of-wire trick - while you have probably measured your chain with one of these tools before replacing, anyway. Might not be the ultra-hack with pins and most newer quick-links which hook up the chain anyway but I found it very useful on my commuters 7-speed Shimano chain which comes with these unbearable QL that require the chain to be bent - and that's a lot easier if it's not under tension or risk of the chain snapping apart.
Oh!!! That's what that's for!! Thank you.
How many pins do you have on your 7 Shimano chain?
Great job Tim. Very helpful 👌
Hello, "Alan"! 😂
😂
Thanks Bernard.
You should also mention that if your chain is moderately worn you may have to change your cassette too. A new chain on a old cassette causes skipping on the gears that you use the most, and no amount of RD adjustment can solve that
What exactly are you looking for to know that your cassette is worn out? The teeth on a Shimano Ultegra cassette all look different even on a new cassette.
Great point Jason! It's always worth checking out the wear on the cassette if you are having shifting issues. 🙌
@@francoisrouviere Symptoms are when the teeth itself are "pointy", a bit like a shark's fin and the grooves between the teeth are more like squared with round edges than round but I haven't seen that in real life. Bad shifting and excessive noise are always a symptom, though.
Lovely presentation, Gerard! 👏👏👏
Hahaha we are loving these names 🙌
@@gcntech 🤣
Thanks Giuseppe!😂
Thanks Alan!
Very informative video, I learned a lot. Thank you Alan.
Whoop whoop whoop! Learning new things is the best 🎉
When you have these quick connectors, and you've started waxing your chain every 350/500 k, do you need a new connector. Do you use a new connector every time you rewax your existing chain.
Aethelred is really a top mechanic with great tips.
Excellent !
Best not to push out the joining pin, especially if you’re going to be putting the chain back on. The joining pin is designed to fit a hole that’s been loosened by having the old pin pushed out. Choose a pin on a different link, and push that put instead. If you’re re-connecting it with a new connecting pin, it’ll be weaker if it’s already had the extra tight joining pin pushed out.
Brilliant. Super clear explanation, thank you.
The chain on my current bike turned out to be 4 links too long when I changed it, so it's always worth checking!
It`s really easy. You just need a fully equipped bicycle workshop and every bicycle tool close at hand.
Top bike maintenance tip: listen to your bike while riding it. New or different sound? Check it out. You can hear worn brake pads, misalined deraillers, worn bearings etc. before you see it.
Great tip! You've just got to be aware of what those different issues sound like 👂
I know this is basic but I’ve never done it myself thanks 🙏
This Alan chap is quite a good presenter, and he's better looking.
I love that even Angus has forgotten his name now 🤣 really helpful video though!
Nicely explained… be sure to use the proper chain tool IF you are using Campagnolo Super Record.
Super helpful, thanks👊
good work from chris how to fix a chain on a bike
Instructions unclear, my hands are dark and greasy.
In my opinion you did not mention the most important thing - how to calculate correctly the pins for the new chain. My fabric chain was too short, I always use a calculator instead of putting it side by side with the old one since then
Thank you!
What cog is that? Very colorful, loved it.
That's at least two videos with no mention of the tricky anodized cassette.
Guess how many more until I show it in detail?
@@alexpatonGCN N+1?
Cheers for the time
What a brilliant video
Im interested to know where can I get that cassette, looks lovely
what is the brand of the cassette? i like that rainbow gears
If you're replacing a worn chain, it will be longer than the new chain. You need to count the links in order to get a new chain that is the same length as the original chain when it was new.
I think I'm due for a chain replacement soon, need to get one of the chain gauges first.
Get a Park Tool CC-4, this is one of the few chain checkers that can accurately gauge the wear of SRAM Flattop chains.
@@yonglingng5640
Already ordered that one.
Thanks alex. Been looking to learn this. Where does a chain with a quick link usually break? Wondering if thats a recoverable mechanical on a ride. Thanks
Breaking the chain 💥
Very helpful, specially because it seems I'll need to prematurely change my chain.
For some reason, with just about 600 or 700km on it, and quite suddenly, it's almost completely gone, according to the wear gauge.
I bought the gauge less than two months ago, it was fine, today it's almost gone ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Thx for the tips Alfredo! 😂
Any set rule if you are changing the cassette at the same time. For instance, going from a 11-32 to an 11-34. Add a link or two?
Nice & Thanks :)
Nice work Alfie.
Can you swap from the pin to the quick link?
Why can't we just have published numbers of pins in the chain so we know exactly what the sizes should be? For eg, do you know how many pins (count the quick link as pins too, pls) a 7 speed Shimano should be? After greasing my chain doesn't hold to pull. This one might be the wrong size to start with, before I copy the mistake.
What are the options I have when I don't have the original chain, and there's no model numbers to look up what bike I have?
What cassette is that ?
Nice explanation Aaron.
My local Bike Dealer told me to take it in every 2 weeks / 100 miles for a new chain.
When i once rode a racing formula roadbikes.... my chain missinglink, (any chainlink) is replaced by a bolting link... a hallow tube and a screwpin... . And i realized before 15yrs ago.. that it will never let you down while in a tromendos sprint duel will monster sprinter.. . Zero chance of breaking your chain.. wheather you plays your shifting gear...randomly.. ..
Nice video but too much hassel for me. I just go to my bike shop and they change it for me when the time for replacing comes around. It's that easy for me 🙂
I think you might be missing the point of these maintenance videos😅
I have gone up 2 teeth on the biggest gear in the cassette - 34 to 36. How much longer in links should the new chain be?
i have a 10 speed mtb. recently my chain broke. I got new chain install but the smallest gear cassette (11T) will jump.. Do I have to replace this 11teeth? Thanks
You now have a tighter chain so you need to loosen the cable (wind it in) near the shifter..
As long as it is gold. The rest doesn't matter. 🤜🤛
I knew Jon would make this comment! 🤣
@@ojtibi9906 just putting the truth out there
So if i switch from pin to quick link i have to cut the new chain 1 link shorter , correct ?
You forgot to clean, degrease and wax the chain first. 😊
😂
hi I recently changed my chain and now it's skipping gears any help you can give mye
The best way to measure is count the links on the chain you are replacing since a heavily worn chain can “stretch” and you’ll be putting a longer chain on by as much as a couple links.
Not all old chains are sized correctly. As a shop mechanic, I've seen a handful of incorrectly sized chains before I size and install new ones, usually a pair of links or two too long. One common mistake is not ensuring the B-tension gap is correct.
No chain has ever stretched as much as one link, let alone a couple...
Well…..a worn chain of 118 links and a 1% stretch is longer than a 119 links new chain. I know. It was on my bike. I had to change the casette and chain wheel any way. So I kept riding with the worn parts. I’ve never seen a chain with 2% strech. Making it longer as long a new 120 links chain.
Can you attach new chain to old chain then thread it through the derailers.
Yes
... quick tip ... most times I use my "car bike rack" as my bike stand ... (Note: I do have a Park Bike stand too ... but usually it is buried in the garage ... HaHa )
Great video! I know there are probably multiple answers based on how/where you ride, but about how often should you change your chain out? Thanks!
that's what the chain gauge is for. when the chain gauge shows out of tolerance that's when you change the chain. as you say how soon depends on the conditions youre riding in, the amount you ride and how clean and lubricated you keep the drivetrain. if you ride a lot I would at least check it once a week after the first couple of months. like a lot of PreFlight practices though, it's probably a good idea to develop a habit of checking it... the problem is it can be a long time between chain changes, so if you're not in the habit of checking it can be easy to forget to check at all, and as usually happens to me by the time you realize your sprockets are too messed up to put a new chain onto, my commute is about 20 mi/32 km a day and I go through about 2 to 3 chains a year, but I also go through chainrings and cassettes that could be avoided if I remembered to check the chain more often.
(thinking about it though, my yearly bicycle costs: the cost of replacing the drivetrain three times a year as well as any other maintenance, is STILL less than a year of insurance for a car, nevermind other automobile related expenses.)
@@better.better awesome thanks for the reply!
The Life Of A Cassette ⚙️
What cassette is that? I thought only SRAM made those rainbow colored ones
How to know which side of chain i must put on, any clue on kmc 11 speed chain ?🤔
I´ve got a kmc speed chain myself - there is no direction to the chain, so you can put the chain on in any direction you like 😉
...kmc 11 speed chain... - sorry, my number pad was off, and I didn´t notice that immediately 😚
Hello Alan 😂
Nice video but you can insert the Shimano connecting pin from either side,it makes no difference with the cassette clearance.💯✌🏻
I’ve been having the hardest time replacing my chain. Got the right speed, though the bike store sold me a SRAM for my Shimano. Super stiff..some links barely move. It wouldn’t go around the derailleur. I tried removing that link and replacing it (which was really hard) and it’s still stiff. I’m so stuck for something that should be simple. And I kept reading that it’s good to remove the wax/ that comes on the chain, so I did that too, thinking it would make the stiff link work, it didn’t. Plus, the quick link was hard to link on…I’m so irritated
You can swap Shimano and sram. Sometimes the new chain has protective tough factory grease on it. Just lube it with a thin oil and go riding. When there is a specific stiff link, just wiggle it from left to right to create some space in the link. Hope that will do the trick.
@@FoxFox-i1c Thanks! I've been trying to wiggle, etc but it's still not moving>
1:48 Bang, and the frame got scratched!
Who's Alan?
Has anyone had an issue with the side plates on a Shimano 105 11 speed chain splitting/cracking? I had a chain break yesterday and had to fit a quick link but noticed the cracks when I got home and had to bike up on the stand for some maintenance. 😱
Need help with t7 bike chain
thanks
watching from Kenya
Thanks Abe! ;)
Need the tools don't forget as well. Best just buy the chain online and take your bike in.
Alan.... when did you change your name George?
What if I’m gonna use a bigger chainring
Does a new chain need to be lubricated?
Yes, but you must remove the factory grease first with degreaser.
@@nluisa yeah, I understand the factory coating is great for protecting the chain while packaged but it will be a magnet for grit after you install the chain so cleaning and lubing properly is a great idea 👍🏼
Guys, I'm afraid the joke went too far. Even Alex is now confused what his name is 😅
Hahahah it's getting to him 😂
This Has Gone Too far! 😂
Best buy ever.... A quick-link tool
Does a quick-link have any disadvantage?
@@PrzemyslawSliwinski None that I've noticed. Quick links are good for people who like to clean and wax/lube their chains off the bike. A regular quick link should be okay for a handful of remove/installs before it becomes too loose for safety. I have a Connex quick link on my chains; the kind that do not need a quick link tool to remove or install and last for much longer. No problems.
@@fredsirvalo1904 ThnX! That's my observations too.
I've been using the KMC chains and their quick links (three at once - in a tandem) for almost two years now.
And yes, there is no excuse for having dirt chains.
Great vid Dave, nice simple clear process to follow, very cool multi colour cassette 😁
Is it possible to exchange a joining pin with a joining quick link? (Shimano Ultrgra / CN-HG701)
Or do I have to replace the joint with the same system after removing it?
Thanks!
It is possible. I'm using CN-HG 93 (Ultegra lv. 9 speed) with KMC Missing Link. I'd suggest to get KMC or YBN ones as they are re-usable.
Completely possible. All CN-HG701-11 chains I've unboxed come with a pair of quick-links instead of a pin.
Thanks, that’s good to know. My new Canyon came with the mentioned Shimano chain and no quick links. I prefer removing the chain for cleaning and in my opinion that’s easier done with quick links.
@@phistr7066 Then it's no wonder yours came with a pin instead because yours was factory-installed and yes, dismantling and rejoining a chain for deep cleaning purposes is much easier with quick-links unless you have a bunch of spare chain pins.
Shimano delivers their chains with a pin instead of a quick link. However you can use a Sram or Connex quickink too, I never used the Shimano pin
Hello help: If you change a Ultegra chain, do you have to change to a new cassette, The existing cassette is 8000k old , no rain ... no sand ... no dirt ever... Why do mechanics have such diverse opinions on cassette replacements ?
My chain doesn't have a joining socket or whatever or a joining pin. I just had to break it
Chain waxing next please.
Great video, thanks Alan.
"I'm Alan" 🤣🤣🤣
I can't believe there are people who ride bikes but haven't worked out how to do this themselves.
He’s submitted. He actually introduced himself as “Alan.” I thought Dermott was made of sterner stuff than that.
As always good vid but strange name change😂
I just replaced my chain and it runs horribly. I hate working on it
He forgot his own name
Kmc are the best chains.
Uhhhh......Alan ? OK , thought it was Arndt ? Thank you ! Nice cassette !!!
1:36 what if my chain don't have these things??
That's not Alan...... that's Steve.
This isn't how to join a Campagnolo 11speed or newer chain. The only chains I use on my Campagnolo equipped road bikes and my Shimano equipped gravel and fat bike are Campagnolo Record 11 speed chains even though my Fat bike is only 10 speed an 11 speed chain works great there
thank you very much
Gonna chain this one to other episodes