Wow! what a professional mechanic, the way he takes everything off and puts it back on in the same place etc. Just glad I don't need mine done, what a ton of stuff to remove and put back, no wonder it costs a fortune but thumbs up to a proper job.
Thanks for this video...... you helped me make my decision....... I wont let nobody play in my engine unless obvious problems. Last time i paid 600$ for a valve adjustment was on my gsx1250fa and.......engine noises appeared 1 month later....... (and the engine was runing perfectly before the adjustement)
Please get your valve clearance checked by a professional! Do not skip this important maintenance. If you do not have this done, your engine is very likely to be damaged and the repair will be very expensive. In my experience this model of engine often needs shims changed after 40 to 50,000km and Kawasaki recommend checking more frequently. If you do not have the shims checked and changed, the exhaust valves will be burned and the engine head may be damaged.
I came here thinking I could pick something up but now I realized there's lots of work need to put into this, I guess I will have to skip this project . Good video though, you're a Pro
It's definitely a decent chunk of work, somewhere between 6 and 12 hours depending on how fast you move. I recommend having the service manual handy and re-reading it as you go. Take lots of photos and label parts and locations as you remove them. Make sure you vacuum + wipe all around the head cover and frame before you open it. You also definitely need to have a torque wrench and removable threadlocker (locktite).
Fantastic video, it's going to be a lot of help: My wife's had her 2017 N1K for a year now and it's time I dug in there and got this done. I'm holding to the hope the previous owner had the first check done on time. While we got the bike from a dealer in Mississippi, there was a card under the seat with ol' Carl's number to call, which we did. He bought the N1K to replace his Concours 14 because he's a smaller guy. Oh, and he was 77 years old when he did that. Double-oh- he'd traded the N1K in on a DCT Gold Wing. At something like 80 years old. Anyway, I had to ditch my VFR800s because I couldn't keep up once she got this thing and had to get a Honda Blackbird. Fortunately, the Bird is specified for "regular" grade fuel, 87 octane here in the US, unlike the 91-93 the Ninja demands... at a dollar-plus more a gallon here. I want to fondly recall my ZX1100E and ZRX1100 with the slide-to-the-side rockers where a shim replacement takes a couple of minutes; the cams don't need to come out. A distant dream nowadays. I keep an oil can with a manual pump and a gooseneck to slather the parts going back in with engine oil. I have used assembly lube too, but in cases where things had been apart and/or suspect for a while. Incidentally, I loved the sound effects to the point they were a bit distracting. Now, on to Tab A and Slot B.
I hope I am still riding and enjoying it at 80! Speaking of 80... This particular Z1000 just ticked over 80,000 miles on the clock and I recently did the clearances. Pretty solid engines if you stay on top of the maintenance. The valves on this one finally seem to have settled in, so not scheduling checks as frequently now.
@@marks4058 That's what you buy a Kawasaki for- the engine. Well, and the clutch. My beloved ZX1100E (GPZ) went to 40,000 miles before the shims needed a touching up, then again at 80K. Sold it with 106K and never, ever needed to do a repair of any kind, just tires and things. It was running perfectly when I sold it, and I still can't say why I did that.
Now that is a lot of complicated work,good job you are mega fast 😝😜🤪👌👍😏. Well done my man. I think my versys 650 is half as easy. Now all I got to do is be as quick as you 😇😜
@@marks4058 as I watched your video I thought to myself...I'll probably just sell it when it gets to that point lol. I cant get over how involved it was. I just did the valves on my Suzuki and I considered it a fairly complicated job. After watching your video, it was about 5% of what you did. Nice work man!
Mark S Vidéo passionnante surtout. J'aurais vraiment totale confiance en vous pour vous confier l'entretien de ma moto (1200 Bandit). Vous êtes tellement soigneux !! Malheureusement les mécanos compétents comme vous sont très très très rares ... Encore bravo pour votre travail 👍👍👍👍👍
Never removed the Camshaft sprockets when doing the Shim replacement on a Z1000SX in fact I leave the Camshafts in I just roll one at a time over to the other side as there's enough slack in the chain when the Tensioner's removed.
I have a 2014 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 ABS. I'm wanting to change my OEM brake lines to stainless steel braided brake lines. Do you have any videos on this subject? Awesome video of the valve clearance, spark plug change and coolant change.
No videos on that sorry. But, if you are experiencing poor braking power that's a good place to start. Some other things to consider are: vacuum bleeding the brake system with a syringe or vacuum bleeder (the Z's can be hard to bleed if your brake fluid is thin). Sometimes you think the job is done but there's actually quite a bit of air hiding in there. You can also try more aggressive brake pads and stainless steel rotors. Those will pull you up hard but can be quite grabby. I've done that mod before but not everyone will recommend it.
Bloody hell! Long ago I did the tappits on my old CX500 but never did buckets and shims. A mate told me decades ago that tappits are easier (no shit!) but buckets and shims stay within tolerances for much longer. Also, big engine in a tight frame. Transverse V engines FTW...
Yeah, must be very easy on a boxer engine. As far as I know, this one had never been done so I'm not surprised it needed some adjustments after 70,000km.
@@SunnieSnell Good luck, I hope it goes smoothly. Don't forget to clean any dirt and stones off the frame and around the cam shaft cover before you remove it.
@@marks4058Hey mate can you tell me the diameter of the shim 7.5mm is what i hear and what range do you suggest for set box purchase Or do i consult the manual which is on 2-26 Periodic maintenance for sizing I have 2 bikes to do 93 z1100 as well as the z1000 2012 Ta in advance
@@SunnieSnell All my shims measure 7.48mm diameter (basically 7.5). 3.2mm to 2.8mm thickness seems to be the most common but you can occasionally run into adjustments outside that range. You might find a mechanic willing to exchange shims if you need 1 of something. With the older bike I would compare service manuals to be sure they use the same diameter and thickness.
Hi, great video, I've already watched it several times. I've been looking for an answer on whether my bike sounds off because the valves need to be done or not, but all I can find is people saying they got their bike back/back together and POST-valvejob it doesn't sound good. Over the last year or year and a half my bike has increasingly sounded hollow and just grumpy. 2012 Ninja 1000, 19.5K, has sounded grumpy since probably 15k. When I first recognized noise/running issues(certain small RPM ranges -- at speed with low throttle, or taking off from a stop). I replaced the plugs and it sounded significantly different but still weird -- honestly, probably worse. I replaced the air filter with a k+n and that had no change. I ran fuel cleaner through it and it sounded a bit better, and I haven't experienced much for 'running issues' with it since. I also took apart my fuel pump and cleaned out my fuel filter quite a bit, and that had no real impact either. At a bit of a loss, didn't really think I'd have to worry about the valves quite yet but I have lived in the city, so my miles involve traffic. Just wondering if you have any thoughts on that? should i be paranoid I might be damaging my bike? thanks for posting the vid!
Valve clearance should be done at the specified interval on this bike. Don't skip it or put it off, particularly the first clearance check, which is almost due (24k}. It's very unlikely you will hear any major change in sound. Valves just make a quiet click/tapping sound (good) If the sound goes away you have major trouble. A grumbling sound at lower RPM can be caused by a worn front sprocket and/or chain. It may sound like it's coming from the opposite side of the bike too, which can be confusing. The exhaust system will accumulate soot over time which will change the tone and volume of the exhaust sound. That is a gradual change you will experience. Also, check you are running the correct fuel octane number (RON) that the bike is tuned for. Don't go higher or lower, just use what the manual says. I have heard that people use hotter than standard spark plugs in these to help with low RPM running. Sounds like you should get an opinion from a qualified mechanic in person. I can't hear your bike so it all just guesswork.
@@marks4058 Appreciate the comments. I've read of normally being no necessary changes on most N1K's at the 15-16k mark, typically. Also to "skip the first check" or that "normally the valves dont need any adjustment before 2-3x the stated service interval". So, the sound is specifically with it running, not just in gear. I'm usually running 93, but here in the US even 87 octane I believe is rated at 89-90. I pretty much always run 93. Interesting thought about the exhaust system.. could be on to something there. And/or, honestly lack of any valve chatter. I am posting a video now, no worries if you are too busy to check it out but I would be curious to hear what you thought. Having done the air filter, plugs, fuel filter, run Techron thru it twice, and only being at 19.5K, I'm at a bit of a loss for sure.
@@delasse3178 Skipping clearance checks is something you could consider when you have some data from past checks to show if this particular engine is subject to much clearance creep. Some engines are remarkably stable and others are not. I did the clearance on a Daytona 675 at 90,000km and it needed no adjustment. I've always found at least one valve needing a shim change on the Z1000. Your octane numbers in the USA are a concern for me! Can you verify what the bike is tuned for? Usually these require 95RON fuel. If it hasn't been adjusted for lower octane you probably have a pinging problem that will cause engine damage. Do you know if it was sold new from a dealership in USA? Or imported second hand? Try running a tank of fuel with sufficient lead free octane booster to get the RON number to 95. If that makes it run better, you have your answer.
@@marks4058 thanks again for the response! the manual for my bike states that it needs 90 RON, and US 87 is 89-90 RON, though I almost always run 93. I will try to boost the octane and see if that makes a difference, but the times I have run some 87 I have not noticed any noteable differences in running quality. The only thing I haven't mentioned is I noticed a minimal amount of water inside my tank lid and was perplexed, and then went to fill up one day after a rainstorm, and water was literally on the lip of the tank opening -- like 360 degrees of water around it. Ounces of it. I dried it up with paper towels and now have a rubber mat over my gas tank so that water can't get in, as I store it with a cover. Water has definitely gotten into the tank and mixed with gas, as for how much I do not know, because I don't really know how long it was happening. I bought the bike in 2020 with 6.5k miles and it was garaged until almost 2022. From my understanding, the problem would mostly be rust in stuff like the injectors, and not engine damage. I do feel like the injectors have quieted as well, unless I'm misassociating noise.
@@delasse3178 Good to know the bike has been adjusted for lower octane. Sounds like the filler cap drain hose is blocked. There should be a drain hole in the gutter around the tank cap which drains through a hose which exits next to the front sprocket. It might be pinched, miss-routed or blocked with dirt. If you are not running E10 or some other fuel with ethanol already, you can put a couple of teaspoons of methylated spirits into each tank of fuel. That will help disperse any water which is accumulating at the bottom of the tank. Water pooling there would cause rough running, particularly at the start of a ride.
Kawasaki say that the crank case must be split to make space to remove the timing chain. The sprocket is not removed. Other people recommend splitting the chain and pulling a new chain through with the old chain then joining it. I have not replaced a timing chain on a Z1000 so I can't offer much advice, except to avoid replacing the chain until there is actually a problem like poor timing alignment.
Great video, thanks! Need your opinion: I opened my valve cover and 2 intake valves are 0.25mm (limits: 0.15-0.24) and 3 exh. are 0.33mm (limits: 0.22- 0.31). Would you change shims or not?
Yes I would change them. The clearance will keep changing over time and any that are out of spec now may continue getting worse. Since these are loose (not tight) it's safe to use the engine until you can get the shims you need.
In my opinion 0.01 and 0.02 mm are in the experimental error of measurement. And measuring at +10C is not the same that measuring at +40C (in both cases "room temperature" depending on the place). Don't touch it. The valve cleareance is just to avoid that the valves remain open when the engine is hot. That won't be your case.
How do you think if i first check a compression before do this big job ?? If its need to do valve clearance it must affecting compression also ?? So i think its easy way check first compression or how do you think .
I would check things in this order: 1) Temperature of all 4 exhaust headers is equal when running. (Use IR thermometer). 2) Check sparkplugs. Measure gap, verify all have same gap and even tan color (use feeler gauge). Verify no leak around plugs. 4) Verify no vacuum leaks between airbox and cylinder intake port. (Smoke test) 5) Test compression with compression test gauge. Check valve clearance if compression is lower on cyl 3. 6) Test coils. (Check for spark, test voltage with ignition tester). Do the easy checks first be sure of vacuum integrity and spark plugs. Testing compression is faster than checking valve clearance, but you need the compression test tools (and understand the procedure). Tools might be expensive, perhaps you prefer to spend your time instead? For me, I sleep better at night if I know the clearance is OK.
I have another though too. Are you 100% certain the balancing gauges you are using are ok and you are doing the procedure correctly? Good idea to get someone else to check your work first before investigating at complicated problem that might not exist. Could save you a lot of time.
Hello mark. I just measured the clearance of all the valves of my z800. Some are at the minimum of the specification (for example exhaust : 0,22-0,31 I have two at 0,22 mm). I have seen that you had that too and left it as it is. What is your advise? Would it not be better to change the shims to get it in between?
That's a tricky call when it's right on the edge of the acceptable range. Consider what your margin of error might be on the measurements, such as the size steps of the feeler guages. Eg 0.22 could be 0.21 or 0.23 if your guages go up in increments of 0.03, or if it was a particularly hot day when you measured. Another perspective is: You have it open anyway, if you have the shims you need on hand, might as well get it perfect while you are in there. Exhaust ports tend to get tighter over time so that's an argument for doing them now.
It has been a long time since I made this video so I can't recall which shim set I was using. It's possible I might not have had a suitable shim to get closer to the middle of the tolerance range.
@happypanda8320 ugh getting to the engine is not the hard part IMO. if this is something i need to do with my bike (19.5k) my headache is the internal stuff.
For a careful job with attention to detail, 6 to 8 hours + cost of gasket and valve shims. Total cost depends on price of labor in your location. In my country a mechanic charges $90 to $120 per hour.
Hello Mark, couple of questions: Would you insert a shim if you measured something around near the limit? Let's say low end is at .15 and you measured around .147 etc (using unreal numbers). Or another way of saying it's in the range of spec according to the chart but almost out of range. Secondly, would it be okay to add a smaller shim to increase gap as long as in range? Meaning going off the chart but staying in the range according to the chart
I think it's important to understand the change over time. If you know the engine and the clearances are stable, with out change between services, then perhaps I wouldn't swap the shim. If the rate of change is unknown then personally, I would change it. Particularly for an exhaust valve, which will almost always get tighter over time. It's also useful to understand what your measurement uncertainty is. If your gauges go in steps of 0.05 then your uncertainty is at least 0.05, probably 0.07.
Its More work to get to the place than to do the job of clearance check.... wow...Some places I think needed slowing down alot of important info went past to fast. I didnt realise you had to lift cams out on the engine and thought the lifter would slide across like some kawas do.. BUT nice to know its floating cams and No timing issues to worry about.. Thanks for the video insight on the job... out of interest what's the Milage recommendation for the clearance check on these..35k or so ??
Just do compression test results C1 195 psi C2 185 psi C3 190 psi C4 195 psi how do you thing its in specification range so i thing is a good , how do you thing are its worth to check valve clearance for them results ??
The Z1000 has a compression ratio of 11.8 to 1. So you can work out the expected compression by multiplying the compression ratio by "one atmosphere" at the location where you did the test (14.7psi at sea level). Example: 14.7 * 11.8 = 173psi. Typical range for this test is 140 to 210 psi. It changes a bit depending on how fast you crank the motor over during the test. It looks like your engine has excellent compression. Have you checked the condition of the spark plugs and measured the spark gap?
@@marks4058 yes i check spark plugs is a good condition its iridium spark plugs i been put them last year and also i recheck all 4 spark plug gaps is 0.8mm so speck say 0.8-0.9 mm so is good , i also redone a throttle body balance , cos i what i was thinking that throttle body clams was a bit loose i tighten them its looks reduce a vibration , now i waiting for smoke machine just in case do also smoke test , but i need to know where exactly to connect that smoke machine are is that pipe where is connected air inlet in to the air filter box ? Are i must to start engine and run that smoke test ?? Can you give to my a bit more details how todo that smoke test . Everything else is looks like so far so good .
@@viliusjonaitis3264 Depends how you will generate the smoke. If it's thick dense smoke and you can make a small amount, just spray around inlet manifold/throttle body and see if smoke gets sucked in anywhere (engine running at idle). If smoke is hard to control, zip tie a rubber glove over each velocity stack, one at a time and pump smoke into the velocity stack. Then look around the engine to see if smoke comes out anywhere between the velocity stack and the air intake port on the engine (test with the engine off). If smoke comes out the exhaust, you might need to crank the motor over a few degrees to get the valves closed on the cylinder you are testing. UA-cam has some videos for inspiration. Search "vacuum leak smoke test".
No, I reused the original gaskets as they were in excellent condition. I only applied sealant in the locations specified in the service manual (the cam shafts cut-outs).
I only leave a like on a quality content. This is one of them. That camera angle showing all the process was amazing for a timelapse disassembly. Need to add a music though because that background music sounds like an average lifehacks tutorial music
Thanks! I was feeling a bit lazy to do high production values on this. It was a 12 hour job and the main thing is that I documented it for others. Wish I had a nice library of stock music I could reach for without having to spend a day searching for it.
@@marks4058 ah yes, the struggle of a content creator was to find appropriate music to suit the video itself. Can't blame that one. I also was ambitious making a timelapse to do the job but ended up scrap the idea and do the valve adjustment without recording because of how time consuming it is and inconvenient to move around the tripod without having oil at everything I touch. I respect that courage to produce it despite the extra time to move around the tripod for better shot. I've seen you mentioned 12 hours of job did you done everything in just a single day or combine them from separate days?
@@Pdus64 I did most of it in one day and just put the bike back together on the second day. I think filming added 2 hours work. Wearing gloves helped and I just left the cameras rolling. Shoot first, edit later!
@@marks4058 ah right, i remember i dont have gloves ready when i take it off. welp, at least my motorcycle valve adjustment can be done later. i can use this video as a reference which is better than nothing.
Hi mate i see you did great job , now i have mine 2017 model so i have vibration that vibration increase in a 2 years time more and more , i do throttle body balance , but seams on cylinder 3 is something wrong cos i close all 4 pillion screws cylinder 1-2-4 was equal but cylinder 3 is lover , so i try to guess any shims can be effecting it cos like you say kawasaki say need check clearance at 16k miles but mine is nearly 20k miles just been to chat with kawasaki they confirm for my when its need to do at 28k miles 😆😆😆
If you have adjusted the clearance in spec but can't get the balance correct, its probably a vacuum leak somewhere. Further adjustment of the clearances won't fix that. If you are 100% certain there are no vacuum leaks and have checked the sparkplugs are installed correctly then the next step is probably a bore scope inspection of the valves and valve seats, maybe do a leakdown/compression test too.
I don’t check valve clearance just thinking do now by self cos Kawasaki refuse to do that cos my bike is 19k miles so but i defiantly find something not right on valve clearance specially on cylinder 3 cos its dodgy was when i do throttle body balance , so i use yours vide to disable and check valve clearance by self . Thank you for answer mate ✨
Yes, but you must be patient, methodical and have good instructions to follow (eg the service manual). It's a long job on this bike. Allow 12 work hours the first time. You need to understand how the cam chain tensioner works, correct use of a torque wrench and what the "feel" is like with feeler guages. Ideal if you can have someone else show you what a "go" and a "no-go" should feel like. Take all your measurements three times and do them again if you have doubts.
@@marks4058I read that it is best to adjust the clearance to the higher tolerance, because it generally gets tighter, do you agree, or simply refer to the table in the service manual ?
@@proutproutcamenbert In practice, you will often find you are limited by both the availability of shims in small increments and your ability to measure the clearance (eg the increment of the feeler guages). So often there will only be one shim available that you can confidently say falls inside the specified range. If you do find yourself with a choice of two shims that are compatible, then yes I would choose the one that gives more clearance, particularly if you are not going to stick to the manufacturers maintenance schedule. However, don't over think it! If it's in spec, then it's in spec.
@@marks4058 Thanks ! So what you are saying is that for example if the exhaust clearance is 0.22 ( the minimum spec ) then you would not add 0.05 to be on the safe side for the next 40k ?
Yes, if memory serves me correctly it was. That sealant performed well in this application and was easy to remove when I serviced this bike 30,000km later.
Kawasaki recommend doing this every 24,000 km or 15,000 miles. However, people frequently leave it much longer. This particular bike had not been checked for at least 50,000km.
I just been yesterday to discus for them with Kawasaki they say my milage is 19k miles and need todo this job on 29k miles , i now feeling vibration i do throttle body balance but i thing i can’t to do proper throttle body balance because i guess i need to do first shims .
Yes, that is the plug listed in the service manual. They last at least 60,000km and only need to be changed if they are out of spec (enlarged spark gap, not firing, damaged or eroded).
It's an artistic counterpoint to all the long, drawn out, heavily narrated UA-cam mechanical videos where you could go make a coffee then take a stroll around the block and not miss a thing. Also, I watch too much Jimmy Diresta.
Damn. I think I better just save up for this service.
Wow! what a professional mechanic, the way he takes everything off and puts it back on in the same place etc. Just glad I don't need mine done, what a ton of stuff to remove and put back, no wonder it costs a fortune but thumbs up to a proper job.
Thanks for this video...... you helped me make my decision....... I wont let nobody play in my engine unless obvious problems.
Last time i paid 600$ for a valve adjustment was on my gsx1250fa and.......engine noises appeared 1 month later....... (and the engine was runing perfectly before the adjustement)
Please get your valve clearance checked by a professional! Do not skip this important maintenance. If you do not have this done, your engine is very likely to be damaged and the repair will be very expensive. In my experience this model of engine often needs shims changed after 40 to 50,000km and Kawasaki recommend checking more frequently. If you do not have the shims checked and changed, the exhaust valves will be burned and the engine head may be damaged.
Wow! Excellent video! You must be a professional mechanic or if not you easily could be. Very nice work.
Thanks for the compliment!
I think I'll just sell mine when the warranty ends.
I was thinking te same 😂
I came here thinking I could pick something up but now I realized there's lots of work need to put into this, I guess I will have to skip this project . Good video though, you're a Pro
It's definitely a decent chunk of work, somewhere between 6 and 12 hours depending on how fast you move. I recommend having the service manual handy and re-reading it as you go. Take lots of photos and label parts and locations as you remove them. Make sure you vacuum + wipe all around the head cover and frame before you open it. You also definitely need to have a torque wrench and removable threadlocker (locktite).
Fantastic video, it's going to be a lot of help:
My wife's had her 2017 N1K for a year now and it's time I dug in there and got this done.
I'm holding to the hope the previous owner had the first check done on time. While we got the bike from a dealer in Mississippi, there was a card under the seat with ol' Carl's number to call, which we did.
He bought the N1K to replace his Concours 14 because he's a smaller guy. Oh, and he was 77 years old when he did that. Double-oh- he'd traded the N1K in on a DCT Gold Wing. At something like 80 years old.
Anyway, I had to ditch my VFR800s because I couldn't keep up once she got this thing and had to get a Honda Blackbird. Fortunately, the Bird is specified for "regular" grade fuel, 87 octane here in the US, unlike the 91-93 the Ninja demands... at a dollar-plus more a gallon here.
I want to fondly recall my ZX1100E and ZRX1100 with the slide-to-the-side rockers where a shim replacement takes a couple of minutes; the cams don't need to come out. A distant dream nowadays.
I keep an oil can with a manual pump and a gooseneck to slather the parts going back in with engine oil. I have used assembly lube too, but in cases where things had been apart and/or suspect for a while.
Incidentally, I loved the sound effects to the point they were a bit distracting.
Now, on to Tab A and Slot B.
I hope I am still riding and enjoying it at 80! Speaking of 80... This particular Z1000 just ticked over 80,000 miles on the clock and I recently did the clearances. Pretty solid engines if you stay on top of the maintenance. The valves on this one finally seem to have settled in, so not scheduling checks as frequently now.
@@marks4058 That's what you buy a Kawasaki for- the engine. Well, and the clutch.
My beloved ZX1100E (GPZ) went to 40,000 miles before the shims needed a touching up, then again at 80K.
Sold it with 106K and never, ever needed to do a repair of any kind, just tires and things.
It was running perfectly when I sold it, and I still can't say why I did that.
Now that is a lot of complicated work,good job you are mega fast 😝😜🤪👌👍😏.
Well done my man.
I think my versys 650 is half as easy.
Now all I got to do is be as quick as you 😇😜
Thank you good Sir! See you again after another 24.000 km!
Crazy just had mine done on my gsx 1250 fa at 21500k well worth the £500 at Suzuki dealership oil, coolant, plugs etc also
Excellent video. Straight to the point. No BS. Showed all steps. Thanks mate. Subscribed.
Did that job once, will have to do it again as I just bought another. :)
Nice work but WOW that's a ton of work. I just bought a 2015 with 8k so hopefully I won't be doing this for a while.
Yeah it's not a simple job!
@@marks4058 as I watched your video I thought to myself...I'll probably just sell it when it gets to that point lol. I cant get over how involved it was. I just did the valves on my Suzuki and I considered it a fairly complicated job. After watching your video, it was about 5% of what you did. Nice work man!
Merci pour cette vidéo et bravo pour votre travail.
Quelle dextérité et quelle précision 👍👍👍
Impressionnant
Merci pour votre commentaire. J'espère que cette vidéo vous a été utile.
Mark S
Vidéo passionnante surtout.
J'aurais vraiment totale confiance en vous pour vous confier l'entretien de ma moto (1200 Bandit).
Vous êtes tellement soigneux !!
Malheureusement les mécanos compétents comme vous sont très très très rares ...
Encore bravo pour votre travail 👍👍👍👍👍
Never removed the Camshaft sprockets when doing the Shim replacement on a Z1000SX in fact I leave the Camshafts in I just roll one at a time over to the other side as there's enough slack in the chain when the Tensioner's removed.
Didn't show it in the video but I also measured the dimensional tolerances + runout on the cam shafts. Was easier without the sprockets.
Nice work! !!
Nice video !!
I have a 2014 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 ABS. I'm wanting to change my OEM brake lines to stainless steel braided brake lines. Do you have any videos on this subject? Awesome video of the valve clearance, spark plug change and coolant change.
No videos on that sorry. But, if you are experiencing poor braking power that's a good place to start. Some other things to consider are: vacuum bleeding the brake system with a syringe or vacuum bleeder (the Z's can be hard to bleed if your brake fluid is thin). Sometimes you think the job is done but there's actually quite a bit of air hiding in there.
You can also try more aggressive brake pads and stainless steel rotors. Those will pull you up hard but can be quite grabby. I've done that mod before but not everyone will recommend it.
Bloody hell! Long ago I did the tappits on my old CX500 but never did buckets and shims. A mate told me decades ago that tappits are easier (no shit!) but buckets and shims stay within tolerances for much longer. Also, big engine in a tight frame. Transverse V engines FTW...
Yeah, must be very easy on a boxer engine. As far as I know, this one had never been done so I'm not surprised it needed some adjustments after 70,000km.
@@marks4058
lookin to do mine
THanks
A lot to do
@@SunnieSnell Good luck, I hope it goes smoothly. Don't forget to clean any dirt and stones off the frame and around the cam shaft cover before you remove it.
@@marks4058Hey mate can you tell me the diameter of the shim
7.5mm is what i hear and what range do you suggest for set box purchase
Or do i consult the manual which is on 2-26 Periodic maintenance for sizing
I have 2 bikes to do 93 z1100 as well as the z1000 2012
Ta in advance
@@SunnieSnell All my shims measure 7.48mm diameter (basically 7.5). 3.2mm to 2.8mm thickness seems to be the most common but you can occasionally run into adjustments outside that range. You might find a mechanic willing to exchange shims if you need 1 of something. With the older bike I would compare service manuals to be sure they use the same diameter and thickness.
Hello Mark, where did you get the manual from?
Hi, great video, I've already watched it several times. I've been looking for an answer on whether my bike sounds off because the valves need to be done or not, but all I can find is people saying they got their bike back/back together and POST-valvejob it doesn't sound good.
Over the last year or year and a half my bike has increasingly sounded hollow and just grumpy. 2012 Ninja 1000, 19.5K, has sounded grumpy since probably 15k.
When I first recognized noise/running issues(certain small RPM ranges -- at speed with low throttle, or taking off from a stop). I replaced the plugs and it sounded significantly different but still weird -- honestly, probably worse. I replaced the air filter with a k+n and that had no change. I ran fuel cleaner through it and it sounded a bit better, and I haven't experienced much for 'running issues' with it since. I also took apart my fuel pump and cleaned out my fuel filter quite a bit, and that had no real impact either. At a bit of a loss, didn't really think I'd have to worry about the valves quite yet but I have lived in the city, so my miles involve traffic. Just wondering if you have any thoughts on that? should i be paranoid I might be damaging my bike? thanks for posting the vid!
Valve clearance should be done at the specified interval on this bike. Don't skip it or put it off, particularly the first clearance check, which is almost due (24k}. It's very unlikely you will hear any major change in sound. Valves just make a quiet click/tapping sound (good)
If the sound goes away you have major trouble.
A grumbling sound at lower RPM can be caused by a worn front sprocket and/or chain. It may sound like it's coming from the opposite side of the bike too, which can be confusing.
The exhaust system will accumulate soot over time which will change the tone and volume of the exhaust sound. That is a gradual change you will experience.
Also, check you are running the correct fuel octane number (RON) that the bike is tuned for. Don't go higher or lower, just use what the manual says.
I have heard that people use hotter than standard spark plugs in these to help with low RPM running.
Sounds like you should get an opinion from a qualified mechanic in person. I can't hear your bike so it all just guesswork.
@@marks4058 Appreciate the comments. I've read of normally being no necessary changes on most N1K's at the 15-16k mark, typically. Also to "skip the first check" or that "normally the valves dont need any adjustment before 2-3x the stated service interval".
So, the sound is specifically with it running, not just in gear. I'm usually running 93, but here in the US even 87 octane I believe is rated at 89-90. I pretty much always run 93.
Interesting thought about the exhaust system.. could be on to something there. And/or, honestly lack of any valve chatter. I am posting a video now, no worries if you are too busy to check it out but I would be curious to hear what you thought. Having done the air filter, plugs, fuel filter, run Techron thru it twice, and only being at 19.5K, I'm at a bit of a loss for sure.
@@delasse3178 Skipping clearance checks is something you could consider when you have some data from past checks to show if this particular engine is subject to much clearance creep. Some engines are remarkably stable and others are not. I did the clearance on a Daytona 675 at 90,000km and it needed no adjustment. I've always found at least one valve needing a shim change on the Z1000.
Your octane numbers in the USA are a concern for me! Can you verify what the bike is tuned for? Usually these require 95RON fuel. If it hasn't been adjusted for lower octane you probably have a pinging problem that will cause engine damage. Do you know if it was sold new from a dealership in USA? Or imported second hand?
Try running a tank of fuel with sufficient lead free octane booster to get the RON number to 95. If that makes it run better, you have your answer.
@@marks4058 thanks again for the response! the manual for my bike states that it needs 90 RON, and US 87 is 89-90 RON, though I almost always run 93. I will try to boost the octane and see if that makes a difference, but the times I have run some 87 I have not noticed any noteable differences in running quality.
The only thing I haven't mentioned is I noticed a minimal amount of water inside my tank lid and was perplexed, and then went to fill up one day after a rainstorm, and water was literally on the lip of the tank opening -- like 360 degrees of water around it. Ounces of it. I dried it up with paper towels and now have a rubber mat over my gas tank so that water can't get in, as I store it with a cover. Water has definitely gotten into the tank and mixed with gas, as for how much I do not know, because I don't really know how long it was happening. I bought the bike in 2020 with 6.5k miles and it was garaged until almost 2022. From my understanding, the problem would mostly be rust in stuff like the injectors, and not engine damage. I do feel like the injectors have quieted as well, unless I'm misassociating noise.
@@delasse3178 Good to know the bike has been adjusted for lower octane.
Sounds like the filler cap drain hose is blocked. There should be a drain hole in the gutter around the tank cap which drains through a hose which exits next to the front sprocket. It might be pinched, miss-routed or blocked with dirt.
If you are not running E10 or some other fuel with ethanol already, you can put a couple of teaspoons of methylated spirits into each tank of fuel. That will help disperse any water which is accumulating at the bottom of the tank. Water pooling there would cause rough running, particularly at the start of a ride.
Top !!! I will be happy if i got this easy like you... I have 20.000km time for exercises on my z900. But i see a problem for the torque values... :/
Awesome job, man!
hi Mark, tell me if I need to replace the timing chain, do I need to unscrew the crankshaft sprocket with the marks?
Kawasaki say that the crank case must be split to make space to remove the timing chain. The sprocket is not removed. Other people recommend splitting the chain and pulling a new chain through with the old chain then joining it. I have not replaced a timing chain on a Z1000 so I can't offer much advice, except to avoid replacing the chain until there is actually a problem like poor timing alignment.
Great video, thanks! Need your opinion: I opened my valve cover and 2 intake valves are 0.25mm (limits: 0.15-0.24) and 3 exh. are 0.33mm (limits: 0.22- 0.31). Would you change shims or not?
Yes I would change them. The clearance will keep changing over time and any that are out of spec now may continue getting worse. Since these are loose (not tight) it's safe to use the engine until you can get the shims you need.
In my opinion 0.01 and 0.02 mm are in the experimental error of measurement. And measuring at +10C is not the same that measuring at +40C (in both cases "room temperature" depending on the place). Don't touch it. The valve cleareance is just to avoid that the valves remain open when the engine is hot. That won't be your case.
@@marks4058 valve clearances (shims) will tighten over time, not loosen. It's better to have a loose clearance rather than a tight one.
How do you think if i first check a compression before do this big job ?? If its need to do valve clearance it must affecting compression also ?? So i think its easy way check first compression or how do you think .
I would check things in this order:
1) Temperature of all 4 exhaust headers is equal when running. (Use IR thermometer).
2) Check sparkplugs. Measure gap, verify all have same gap and even tan color (use feeler gauge). Verify no leak around plugs.
4) Verify no vacuum leaks between airbox and cylinder intake port. (Smoke test)
5) Test compression with compression test gauge. Check valve clearance if compression is lower on cyl 3.
6) Test coils. (Check for spark, test voltage with ignition tester).
Do the easy checks first be sure of vacuum integrity and spark plugs. Testing compression is faster than checking valve clearance, but you need the compression test tools (and understand the procedure). Tools might be expensive, perhaps you prefer to spend your time instead? For me, I sleep better at night if I know the clearance is OK.
I have another though too. Are you 100% certain the balancing gauges you are using are ok and you are doing the procedure correctly? Good idea to get someone else to check your work first before investigating at complicated problem that might not exist. Could save you a lot of time.
would have loved to see this at about 1/2 that speed!
Lol. Even at 0.25x speed, he is going very fast!
@@cesartapia610 AGREED WHOLEHEARTEDLY!
Hello mark. I just measured the clearance of all the valves of my z800. Some are at the minimum of the specification (for example exhaust : 0,22-0,31 I have two at 0,22 mm). I have seen that you had that too and left it as it is. What is your advise? Would it not be better to change the shims to get it in between?
That's a tricky call when it's right on the edge of the acceptable range. Consider what your margin of error might be on the measurements, such as the size steps of the feeler guages. Eg 0.22 could be 0.21 or 0.23 if your guages go up in increments of 0.03, or if it was a particularly hot day when you measured. Another perspective is: You have it open anyway, if you have the shims you need on hand, might as well get it perfect while you are in there. Exhaust ports tend to get tighter over time so that's an argument for doing them now.
It has been a long time since I made this video so I can't recall which shim set I was using. It's possible I might not have had a suitable shim to get closer to the middle of the tolerance range.
@@marks4058 al right. Do you use oem shims or is there an aftermarket brand which u recommend? I appreciate the feedback 👍🏻
@@beatsmarttie5777 I don't have a favorite brand but it's always nice to find a kit with laser engraved sizes on them.
Sometime things look easy but they are hard,this looked hard,imagine how hard will it be to do.
@Happy Panda how did it go? 🤔
@Happy Panda I see you did fine, Nice! This one will be left for the kawa specialist. I have a tendency to break things :)
@happypanda8320 ugh getting to the engine is not the hard part IMO. if this is something i need to do with my bike (19.5k) my headache is the internal stuff.
nice video do u have specs for how to do valve clearance on bmw s 1000 XR ?
very good video mark. Did you replace the cover gasket?
Not that time as the gasket was in very good condition. Although I did replace it on the next clearance check.
looking at this makes my wallet hurt when I know I need this done on next service :P
Hi , what is the shim size should I order? for z1000sx? 14
Sir how much cost for z900 shim adjustment?
For a careful job with attention to detail, 6 to 8 hours + cost of gasket and valve shims. Total cost depends on price of labor in your location. In my country a mechanic charges $90 to $120 per hour.
Marvellous
That’s a lotta work
Hello Mark, couple of questions:
Would you insert a shim if you measured something around near the limit? Let's say low end is at .15 and you measured around .147 etc (using unreal numbers).
Or another way of saying it's in the range of spec according to the chart but almost out of range.
Secondly, would it be okay to add a smaller shim to increase gap as long as in range?
Meaning going off the chart but staying in the range according to the chart
I think it's important to understand the change over time. If you know the engine and the clearances are stable, with out change between services, then perhaps I wouldn't swap the shim. If the rate of change is unknown then personally, I would change it. Particularly for an exhaust valve, which will almost always get tighter over time.
It's also useful to understand what your measurement uncertainty is. If your gauges go in steps of 0.05 then your uncertainty is at least 0.05, probably 0.07.
Re a smaller shim: Yes any shim that gets you within the specified tolerate is fine.
@@marks4058 thank you friend. Excellent video!
Do the in and ex sprockets always line up at mark 1.4 for? They never line upfor me at 2.3 hope I didn't f nothing up 🤣
Does that 2.3 mark serve a purpose in this scenario on the rotor? My sprockets like up fine at 1.4 for in----ex and in-ex but never on 2.3
Its More work to get to the place than to do the job of clearance check.... wow...Some places I think needed slowing down alot of important info went past to fast. I didnt realise you had to lift cams out on the engine and thought the lifter would slide across like some kawas do.. BUT nice to know its floating cams and No timing issues to worry about..
Thanks for the video insight on the job... out of interest what's the Milage recommendation for the clearance check on these..35k or so ??
Bit slow on the reply here sorry. Kawasaki recommend 24,000km for clearance checks. I definitely wouldn't leave it for 50,000km.
Brilliant
Do you happen to have a PDF copy of that Valve Worksheet? Looks much nicer than what I am currently using.
Here you go:
drive.google.com/folderview?id=1ZpIwUheYB4O6IiKUMoKNwjVfYGvHscvn
@@marks4058 Just requested access
I've made it public now. Forgot about that.
@@marks4058 Thanks! This is much better than my current one. Much appreciated!
Great!
Just do compression test results C1 195 psi C2 185 psi C3 190 psi C4 195 psi how do you thing its in specification range so i thing is a good , how do you thing are its worth to check valve clearance for them results ??
The Z1000 has a compression ratio of 11.8 to 1. So you can work out the expected compression by multiplying the compression ratio by "one atmosphere" at the location where you did the test (14.7psi at sea level). Example: 14.7 * 11.8 = 173psi. Typical range for this test is 140 to 210 psi. It changes a bit depending on how fast you crank the motor over during the test. It looks like your engine has excellent compression.
Have you checked the condition of the spark plugs and measured the spark gap?
@@marks4058 yes i check spark plugs is a good condition its iridium spark plugs i been put them last year and also i recheck all 4 spark plug gaps is 0.8mm so speck say 0.8-0.9 mm so is good , i also redone a throttle body balance , cos i what i was thinking that throttle body clams was a bit loose i tighten them its looks reduce a vibration , now i waiting for smoke machine just in case do also smoke test , but i need to know where exactly to connect that smoke machine are is that pipe where is connected air inlet in to the air filter box ? Are i must to start engine and run that smoke test ?? Can you give to my a bit more details how todo that smoke test . Everything else is looks like so far so good .
@@viliusjonaitis3264 Depends how you will generate the smoke. If it's thick dense smoke and you can make a small amount, just spray around inlet manifold/throttle body and see if smoke gets sucked in anywhere (engine running at idle). If smoke is hard to control, zip tie a rubber glove over each velocity stack, one at a time and pump smoke into the velocity stack. Then look around the engine to see if smoke comes out anywhere between the velocity stack and the air intake port on the engine (test with the engine off). If smoke comes out the exhaust, you might need to crank the motor over a few degrees to get the valves closed on the cylinder you are testing. UA-cam has some videos for inspiration. Search "vacuum leak smoke test".
Did you replace spark plug gasket and/or put some sealant on it?
No, I reused the original gaskets as they were in excellent condition. I only applied sealant in the locations specified in the service manual (the cam shafts cut-outs).
I only leave a like on a quality content. This is one of them. That camera angle showing all the process was amazing for a timelapse disassembly. Need to add a music though because that background music sounds like an average lifehacks tutorial music
Thanks! I was feeling a bit lazy to do high production values on this. It was a 12 hour job and the main thing is that I documented it for others. Wish I had a nice library of stock music I could reach for without having to spend a day searching for it.
@@marks4058 ah yes, the struggle of a content creator was to find appropriate music to suit the video itself. Can't blame that one. I also was ambitious making a timelapse to do the job but ended up scrap the idea and do the valve adjustment without recording because of how time consuming it is and inconvenient to move around the tripod without having oil at everything I touch. I respect that courage to produce it despite the extra time to move around the tripod for better shot. I've seen you mentioned 12 hours of job did you done everything in just a single day or combine them from separate days?
@@Pdus64 I did most of it in one day and just put the bike back together on the second day. I think filming added 2 hours work. Wearing gloves helped and I just left the cameras rolling. Shoot first, edit later!
@@marks4058 ah right, i remember i dont have gloves ready when i take it off. welp, at least my motorcycle valve adjustment can be done later. i can use this video as a reference which is better than nothing.
what thread lock did you used for cam cogwheels? thanks
242
Hi mate i see you did great job , now i have mine 2017 model so i have vibration that vibration increase in a 2 years time more and more , i do throttle body balance , but seams on cylinder 3 is something wrong cos i close all 4 pillion screws cylinder 1-2-4 was equal but cylinder 3 is lover , so i try to guess any shims can be effecting it cos like you say kawasaki say need check clearance at 16k miles but mine is nearly 20k miles just been to chat with kawasaki they confirm for my when its need to do at 28k miles 😆😆😆
If you have adjusted the clearance in spec but can't get the balance correct, its probably a vacuum leak somewhere. Further adjustment of the clearances won't fix that. If you are 100% certain there are no vacuum leaks and have checked the sparkplugs are installed correctly then the next step is probably a bore scope inspection of the valves and valve seats, maybe do a leakdown/compression test too.
I don’t check valve clearance just thinking do now by self cos Kawasaki refuse to do that cos my bike is 19k miles so but i defiantly find something not right on valve clearance specially on cylinder 3 cos its dodgy was when i do throttle body balance , so i use yours vide to disable and check valve clearance by self . Thank you for answer mate ✨
Super
Would you say this procedure can be done by someone who does maintenance by himself, and have some background in mechanical knowledge?
Yes, but you must be patient, methodical and have good instructions to follow (eg the service manual). It's a long job on this bike. Allow 12 work hours the first time. You need to understand how the cam chain tensioner works, correct use of a torque wrench and what the "feel" is like with feeler guages. Ideal if you can have someone else show you what a "go" and a "no-go" should feel like. Take all your measurements three times and do them again if you have doubts.
Thanks :)
@@marks4058I read that it is best to adjust the clearance to the higher tolerance, because it generally gets tighter, do you agree, or simply refer to the table in the service manual ?
@@proutproutcamenbert In practice, you will often find you are limited by both the availability of shims in small increments and your ability to measure the clearance (eg the increment of the feeler guages). So often there will only be one shim available that you can confidently say falls inside the specified range. If you do find yourself with a choice of two shims that are compatible, then yes I would choose the one that gives more clearance, particularly if you are not going to stick to the manufacturers maintenance schedule. However, don't over think it! If it's in spec, then it's in spec.
@@marks4058 Thanks ! So what you are saying is that for example if the exhaust clearance is 0.22 ( the minimum spec ) then you would not add 0.05 to be on the safe side for the next 40k ?
Was that ABRO Grey 999 sealant at 11:04?
Yes, if memory serves me correctly it was. That sealant performed well in this application and was easy to remove when I serviced this bike 30,000km later.
@@marks4058 Good, thanks for the reply
At How many miles would this be recommend? Miles or kilometers.
Kawasaki recommend doing this every 24,000 km or 15,000 miles. However, people frequently leave it much longer. This particular bike had not been checked for at least 50,000km.
I just been yesterday to discus for them with Kawasaki they say my milage is 19k miles and need todo this job on 29k miles , i now feeling vibration i do throttle body balance but i thing i can’t to do proper throttle body balance because i guess i need to do first shims .
great video!, but please take care of the sound next time
After seeing this, I think I stick with my Honda CBF1000 and NC750X.
I did mine on a concours 14, never again. If I'm keeping the bike for that long I will pay a proper mechanic to do it for me.
这是锻造凸轮轴吗？
凸轮轴似乎是铸造后进行铣削加工的，而不是锻造的
This makes paying someone else $900 almost worth it. What happened to UJMs being the “set it and forget it” of the bike world?
It does feel like there should be a better way at times!
Whete you from ? You have shop ?
I'm in Wellington, New Zealand. I only do private work.
What the spark plug type for z1000?
NGK CR9EIA-9
@@marks4058 This is genuine like from factory?
Yes, that is the plug listed in the service manual. They last at least 60,000km and only need to be changed if they are out of spec (enlarged spark gap, not firing, damaged or eroded).
@@marks4058 Oke thanks bro
Am i glad a retired...as my retirement gift...bought myself a Ducati Monster...🤣🤣🤣
Haha your emojis made me lol..
If you pay a mechanic to do this, it looks like it is cheaper to buy a new one.
It's definitely an expensive job. Probably around 8 hours work in total.
Whats the point of doing a cracking video then showing it at 200mph🤔🤔🤔🤔
It's an artistic counterpoint to all the long, drawn out, heavily narrated UA-cam mechanical videos where you could go make a coffee then take a stroll around the block and not miss a thing. Also, I watch too much Jimmy Diresta.
Mark S thanks for this. I will give it ago because of your video. Also I want to acknowledge all the good camera work so I can see what’s going on
I think I will ride my Harley sportster more and Kawasaki Z900RS cafe less.
I think I’ll leave this for the pro and just pay