Man.... I tuned my suspension using this concise tutorial today and I can't believe the difference it made. Can't thank you enough for taking the time to put this info here, Gavin.
found it good for daily riding, the 6th rear shock position was way better than 1st. I tightened the rebound and compression in the front by 1/2 a turn more. I ride hard into corners and I like the feel better. So, 1 turn out on compression, 1 1/2 turns out on rebound and 8th ramp on the rear preload. I an 6'2 and 220 lbs so I need the extra help.
Thank you. I am a 250lb rider and even at the lowest setting on the rear shock, the rear is still pretty stiff. Right where I like it actually due to I ride aggressive a lot. The owner I bought the bike from had little knowledge about what the original owner may have done to the bike. I'm thinking the original owner must have replaced the spring at one point. The front however was set way to soft. That's why I'm here. I will be making the appropriate adjustments to it now.
When you turn the rear preload counterclockwise it will decompress, not compress the spring as you said at 18:47. Turning clockwise is when turning right as you look at the bike from behind
Turning clockwise looking from the rear on my 2011 Z100sx softens the rear, less force on the spring, counter clockwise puts more pressure on the spring making it stiffer. Turning counter clockwise each notch gets harder to turn. Is this correct or do I have a rear shock that doesn't know left from right lol.
You are correct, all depends what direction you are facing. You will see it when you do it, as I discussed the action of compressing the spring had the stiffening effect. I'm sure that's why I paused there, which way am I facing??
Hey Gavin, thanks for this info!! Do you by any chance know what size rider the stock setting is meant for? I'm 165lbs and I find my 2010 Z1000 insanely stiffly sprung, going over road imperfections hurts! It should be at stock settings since I never touched it. I thought it may be set up for smaller Japanese riders, bit to me it almost seems like it's really set up for larger Americans, or maybe that's just how stiff sport bikes need to be? I come from riding supermoto's and enduros for the last 15 years, so maybe it's just me and this is just the price you pay for a liter bike that handles?
I couldn't find any mention of a base weight. I would double check the settings as it may have been incorrectly set at the factory or by the dealer in the pre delivery inspection. I would start reducing the preload first if the compression and rebound settings are good. Next would be reduce compression. There should be a bit of bounce but controlled. It's a tradeoff, comfort or control.
I have a 2010 Z1000 im 5'10 but im 280-300lbs. The bike is great as it is now but it sits a little high for my personal taste. If I were to soften the rear shock that would lower the bike correct? but I was wondering if i were to stiffen up the other loads would that stop the bike from bottoming out? I want to do it myself since i cant see paying a shop to do it since its going to cost a arm and a leg where I am.
Yes, you could soften the shock but your performance would suffer. It would lower it and make the ride more plush at the expence of firmly planting the tire on agressive cornering, it would feel a little wobbily and may slide a bit. The rebound setting helps but the spring will compress and will loose travel as the rebound slows the recovery to normal height. Adjusting the front likely wont have much effect, its busy taming the front fork/wheel forces. I would look into a lowering kit for the rear. There are several models available, some adjustable. Some will say it will ruin your bikes geometry and effect the handling and it may. Read the forums before moving forward. I have done several lowers for others on other bikes including an R6 with little effect.
Hey Gavin, that last adjustment you make with the spanner wrench, the bike is too tall for me. If I go up like you did would it lower the bike a bit? Or do I have to go the other way?
The rear of the bike always seemed a bit too high for me, I'm 5'9, 165lbs, so I'm looking at a lowering link or if this quick fix works that would be great.
You could decompress the the spring a bit but it won't move the height much. I'm 6'2, 220lbs and have to put it where it is to keep it firm. I would try the lowering kit. I've had luck with the adjustable ones just be prepared to modify or purchase the shorter side stand. Some will say it affects the handling and it may if you ride it hard and need the track spec precision but my wife is 5'2 and we lowered her R6, Ninja, Harley and SFV650 with no issues. At 5'9 a 2" lower would make a huge difference for you.
if we install lowering kit will it effect the ground clearance of the bike ? and what are the effects of installing lowering links is good or bad ? plz reply i am waiting for reply...!
I haven't lowered this bike but have done a Harley, Suzuki Gladius, Ninja 250 and an R6. For the riding my wife does, she didnt notice the difference. Only a few things come to mind as a result of lowering a bike. Fitment may be an issue, the Gladius tire rubs if she hits a big bump and the Ninja 250 front wheel was real close to the radiator on the front lowering. Most kits are ok with this, the screw down rear link setup offers the most articulation but can get you interfearing with the other suspension and travel limits if you lower too far. As with any lowering, you might notice you can't lean as far into a corner and might scrape your pegs early or you might bottom out on a speed bump. The Ninja has a good beefy muffler to take a hit if you do. Best to lower front and back at the same time to keep the steering geometry the same. I've lowered the R6 without the front and introduced more caster which didn't acffect that bike. I would search a z100sx forum and see what others have done and what has worked for them.
Yeah, I did this 5 years ago when there were no good videos out there for it. Thought I could help when people were struggling with their setup. Dave did an excellent job for us 3 years later.
![KAWASAKI Z1000 [2010 --] NOBODY TELLS YOU ABOUT THESE SUSPENSION SETTINGS [BUT I WILL DO]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/b5kSa40Hl3Q/mqdefault.jpg)
Man.... I tuned my suspension using this concise tutorial today and I can't believe the difference it made. Can't thank you enough for taking the time to put this info here, Gavin.
Really a great video and good explanation.
found it good for daily riding, the 6th rear shock position was way better than 1st. I tightened the rebound and compression in the front by 1/2 a turn more. I ride hard into corners and I like the feel better. So, 1 turn out on compression, 1 1/2 turns out on rebound and 8th ramp on the rear preload. I an 6'2 and 220 lbs so I need the extra help.
Thank you. I am a 250lb rider and even at the lowest setting on the rear shock, the rear is still pretty stiff. Right where I like it actually due to I ride aggressive a lot. The owner I bought the bike from had little knowledge about what the original owner may have done to the bike. I'm thinking the original owner must have replaced the spring at one point. The front however was set way to soft. That's why I'm here. I will be making the appropriate adjustments to it now.
When you turn the rear preload counterclockwise it will decompress, not compress the spring as you said at 18:47. Turning clockwise is when turning right as you look at the bike from behind
Turning clockwise looking from the rear on my 2011 Z100sx softens the rear, less force on the spring, counter clockwise puts more pressure on the spring making it stiffer. Turning counter clockwise each notch gets harder to turn. Is this correct or do I have a rear shock that doesn't know left from right lol.
You are correct, all depends what direction you are facing. You will see it when you do it, as I discussed the action of compressing the spring had the stiffening effect. I'm sure that's why I paused there, which way am I facing??
Adjust your preload using a fluid single continuous movement for one full turn, dont racket like you did to put excess compression on your nut.
Thanks for explain
Excellent explanation and video, Thanks!
How was your ride after you made the adjustment? I have the same bike but a 2013. I think I need tighten up my suspension a little.
Thanks love ur vedio
Hey Gavin, thanks for this info!! Do you by any chance know what size rider the stock setting is meant for? I'm 165lbs and I find my 2010 Z1000 insanely stiffly sprung, going over road imperfections hurts! It should be at stock settings since I never touched it. I thought it may be set up for smaller Japanese riders, bit to me it almost seems like it's really set up for larger Americans, or maybe that's just how stiff sport bikes need to be?
I come from riding supermoto's and enduros for the last 15 years, so maybe it's just me and this is just the price you pay for a liter bike that handles?
I couldn't find any mention of a base weight. I would double check the settings as it may have been incorrectly set at the factory or by the dealer in the pre delivery inspection. I would start reducing the preload first if the compression and rebound settings are good. Next would be reduce compression. There should be a bit of bounce but controlled. It's a tradeoff, comfort or control.
I've lost the will to live now!
I have a 2010 Z1000 im 5'10 but im 280-300lbs. The bike is great as it is now but it sits a little high for my personal taste.
If I were to soften the rear shock that would lower the bike correct? but I was wondering if i were to stiffen up the other loads would that stop the bike from bottoming out? I want to do it myself since i cant see paying a shop to do it since its going to cost a arm and a leg where I am.
Yes, you could soften the shock but your performance would suffer. It would lower it and make the ride more plush at the expence of firmly planting the tire on agressive cornering, it would feel a little wobbily and may slide a bit. The rebound setting helps but the spring will compress and will loose travel as the rebound slows the recovery to normal height. Adjusting the front likely wont have much effect, its busy taming the front fork/wheel forces. I would look into a lowering kit for the rear. There are several models available, some adjustable. Some will say it will ruin your bikes geometry and effect the handling and it may. Read the forums before moving forward. I have done several lowers for others on other bikes including an R6 with little effect.
Thanks for responding! I'll take a look around
Hey Gavin, that last adjustment you make with the spanner wrench, the bike is too tall for me. If I go up like you did would it lower the bike a bit? Or do I have to go the other way?
The rear of the bike always seemed a bit too high for me, I'm 5'9, 165lbs, so I'm looking at a lowering link or if this quick fix works that would be great.
You could decompress the the spring a bit but it won't move the height much. I'm 6'2, 220lbs and have to put it where it is to keep it firm. I would try the lowering kit. I've had luck with the adjustable ones just be prepared to modify or purchase the shorter side stand. Some will say it affects the handling and it may if you ride it hard and need the track spec precision but my wife is 5'2 and we lowered her R6, Ninja, Harley and SFV650 with no issues. At 5'9 a 2" lower would make a huge difference for you.
Awesome video, Sir.
if we install lowering kit will it effect the ground clearance of the bike ? and what are the effects of installing lowering links is good or bad ? plz reply i am waiting for reply...!
I haven't lowered this bike but have done a Harley, Suzuki Gladius, Ninja 250 and an R6. For the riding my wife does, she didnt notice the difference. Only a few things come to mind as a result of lowering a bike. Fitment may be an issue, the Gladius tire rubs if she hits a big bump and the Ninja 250 front wheel was real close to the radiator on the front lowering. Most kits are ok with this, the screw down rear link setup offers the most articulation but can get you interfearing with the other suspension and travel limits if you lower too far. As with any lowering, you might notice you can't lean as far into a corner and might scrape your pegs early or you might bottom out on a speed bump. The Ninja has a good beefy muffler to take a hit if you do. Best to lower front and back at the same time to keep the steering geometry the same. I've lowered the R6 without the front and introduced more caster which didn't acffect that bike. I would search a z100sx forum and see what others have done and what has worked for them.
You didn't show how measure the settings. Please check Dave Moss's videos if you want properly to set it up.
Yeah, I did this 5 years ago when there were no good videos out there for it. Thought I could help when people were struggling with their setup. Dave did an excellent job for us 3 years later.
@@gaving4359 Thank you for replying.
Omg, the waffle gave up in the tool part
Fuck me i fell asleep during the Tools Section....
NO ENTENDI UNA MIERDA , ESO ESTA EN INGLES