15 Altima with 180+k miles still running original LCAs 🙏🙏 thank you for posting all the video working on your Altima. I watched every single of them and followed step by step to fix mines when needed.
Just found your videos, going to help me get my Altima to 200k!!! Same issues control arms and gasket on engine. Vids are good scares you enough to know it's not a simple oil change but shows can be done!
I have a 2016. I live in the country and work nights. I was driving home, it was completely dark. No street lights in the county. I came around a blind corner and hit a dead huge buck. I swerved so I didnt full on hit the whole buck, just clipped his back end but enough that I felt my car catch some air. It cracked my bumper and thought I got lucky until my tires started wearing unevenly. 6 months ago I bought 2 new tires but the tire shop put them on the back which I thought was odd but never said anything. So last week I got 2 more tires for the front and the tech said, "Im not sure what happened to cause your cracked bumper but.....he suggested LCR and sway bar links. He told me that the sway bar links will cause the feeling of driving on ice when stopping. I haven't checked yet but Im hoping you have a "sway bar replacement" video. I'm a 57 yo female and your video will be saving me $1,400 because I'll be doing this myself. Thank you so much for your video's.
Great to hear about you DIY’ing! Good stuff, love to hear it 👍 As far as your issue, I would definitely think something got slightly bent when you hit it. I would bank on the control arm considering the scenario, but couldn’t hurt to replace endlinks as well, as they are pretty cheap and job is straightforward. I don’t have any videos for endlinks yet however. But bad sway bar bushings/links can definitely give you that feeling, however I feel that bad control arms create that “on ice” feeling even more. But if I were in your shoes I l would go ahead and do the control arms, endlinks & then get an alignment and see how it feels! Just some insight…When a hit is the cause of the issue, its leaves a lot of options on the table. I did a car one time that hit a curb and it was professionally diagnosed to replace the control arm, the strut, the rack&pinion/tie rods, endlinks & wheel bearing. The quote was astronomical of course and I did the job for the customer, as they wanted to do it all. Wheel was still off a hair after completion, and then I realized it was the actual knuckle itself. I replaced the knuckle as the last component and voila. Figured I’d share just to keep in mind. Lmk how it goes!
Dam!!! Are you serious? So proud of you doing it. I just did it and yeah it was a $1500 job they suggested to replace struts and sway bars but I replaced, bearings, control arms, struts, sway bars and tie rods. I will take it for alignment.
I did torque these under load to take no chances, as I outlined in the video. But honestly I’ve torqued quite a few control arms without loading with no issues. I had a ‘99 Altima and I torqued LCA on it without loading and they lasted longer than the car lol.
love your videos. I have nissan altima 2015, which has 133k miles and i have never replaced control arms. Any recommendation when should i replace it? Also, my car hesitate on low rpm, any suggestion what is wrong with it.
I appreciate the comment! As far as replacing the control arms….they really aren’t a maintenance wear item you replace periodically…like spark plugs for example. You just want to replace them when they start feeling noticeable, and partnered with bushing wear. They should be tight, I reviewed how to check them in the video. As long as they are tight and you aren’t experiencing any symptoms of bad LCA’s, you’re fine. As far as hesitation at low RPM, thats hard to diagnose over the internet. That’s something someone really needs to feel/experience along with looking at live-data on a OBDII scanner. Could be something as simple as spark plugs. It seems as though a lot of time with hesitation issues with these cars it is transmission related, but I don’t want to scare you as thats not the only possibility. I would suggest having it evaluated by someone who can accurately check everything and pinpoint the issue vs. just playing the guessing game and replacing random parts.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee yes but I'm having an issue where it's misfiring randomly over the last 40k miles. Had 3 compression test done. All good. P0304 and p0300 and also a p0219e random code that comes sometimes. I changed sparks coil and fuel injectors. No fix. Even the fuel pump. Dealer Saif maybe it could be timing that it's better to just put a used engine for cheap in it instead of doing the timing chain job. Ughh...
I also watched 1 of your other videos where someone said don't do aftermarket valve cover because the clearance might not be correct causing issues. I don't have any oil leaking. My sparks did foul quick with in 6k miles or so 1 time but no oil leaks.
Really strange how quickly the bushings in the Beck-Arnley LCAs wore out. Here's hoping the MOOG LCAs are much longer lasting. I checked the price of the OEM LCAs. $450 per side - yikes!!!! The OEM LCAs are still on my 14 Altima 2.5S with 138K miles. No issues with the steering or rapid tire wear (yet).
Seriously! I appreciate it though! But man where ever you saw that price you need to stop looking there!! Lol. Coulter Nissan Parts is the cheapest & most reliable oem nissan parts source I’ve found! Only $283 a side: www.coulterpartscenter.com/oem-parts/nissan-driver-left-front-lower-control-arm-545013ta0b?c=bD0xJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHMmYT1uaXNzYW4mbz1hbHRpbWEmeT0yMDE0JnQ9c2wmZT0yLTVsLWw0LWdhcw%3D%3D
@@TheOriginalBeeCee Didn't shop around for the best price - mainly curious as to what the MSRP was. The OEMs from coulter are still nearly twice as much as the MOOGs.
Hi I have tight power steering and dealer is suggesting to replace rack and pinion besides the control arms tie rods for 5k. Which by itself is crazy expensive but you think I shouldn’t just try trepkacing the control arms and see if it fixes things?
That’s kind of hard to say without seeing it and experiencing the issue. But yea, $5K is ridiculous. I would suggest putting the front end in the air on jackstands and go over it. Look for bushing wear on the control arms similar to what i showed in the video. If they are all cracked up, then definitely replace them. Could be your problem alone. But i would also look at the outer tie rod ends, see if they have bushing cracks. Depending on your mileage probably couldn’t hurt to replace the outer & inner tie rods. But you just need to evaluate everything and confirm the condition of these parts. Check out my outer tie rod end video, i have some insight on suspension diagnosis in the first 5 minutes of that video.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee hello, i was having the same issue, i just fixed it by doing power steering fluid flush, basically changing the old oil with the new oil completely from the system. it was pretty easy and cheep. after the fix my issue was solved. i would suggest you to try it as its very cheep, if it fixes your issue you will be saving lots of money.
2014 Altima with 190k and original LCR. Am I risking it everytime I drive to work? My car feels like a rollercoaster. It goes up and down a ton. Dealer wanted 2k. I'm thinking about replacing everything. LCRs, outer and inner tie rods, struts. Gonna be fun
Yup they recommended replacing the LCRs and the tie rods. I just got my moog LRCs. I'm going to take the struts out entirely same with the tir rods. Does it help to take off the axel nut as well?
I’m a single mother of 3 kids and I do it all I mean I save any way I can I do my own plumbing, carpentry,etc ive been buying n selling cars for past 8yrs but iv been struggling with the a 2014 Altima s only 110,000 miles tires all have different levels of wear n tear from moderate to HOLY SHIT, any bump turn change in elevation and there a LOUD CLUNKING & RATTLING , steering wheel does this EXCORSIST TYPE 360 TURN on the smallest curves, has play, sometimes for just a second it feels like I’m on verge of losing control, my bushings look good and there’s no play when my hands on 9oclock and 3 o’clock but I noticed motor jumping so I figured motor mounts I did my torque strut and hydraulic mount and then week later after it continued to do it I changed bottom mount well GUESS WHAT ? NOT ONLY IS IT STILL DOING IT but NOW my steering wheel is hard to turn at times like power steering may be going out !! Any suggestions Please….
Good for you on doing all your own work! Awesome to hear! Sorry to hear about the steering/control problems. I would look into the p/s system / tie rods. If you are confident the control arms are tight and in good shape, i would move to the inner tie rods and check them out. You can evaluate them to a degree with every intact, but might be worth popping the outer tie rod end out and really see if the have a lot of play…they would be extremely loose and easy to move with a lot of play. Good inner tie rods should be tight and take some force to move around. I demonstrate this in my inner tie rod video: ua-cam.com/video/4Sh9EpzLIP4/v-deo.htmlsi=4wzWxsAeurjPExbH I also have an outer tie rod video that has some diagnostic steps in the first 5 minutes of the video: ua-cam.com/video/59okF0oTIxU/v-deo.htmlsi=Wr4Jk2ds_eFb54zF The inner tie rods can definitely make this cars steering feel really bad at times when failing. Let me know what you find!
I’m not. Most people don’t care about their job or how good they do it. They just go through the motions. Damn Nissan dealer with Nissan techs didn’t even notice.
When you drive faster like between 40mph-60mph did you feel like the steering wheel turns to freely and loosely like if your driving with one hand or let go just a little it would run off the road? My steering feels comfortable at lower speeds but as I go faster feels like I'm skating or on a roller coaster and have to take caution and steer with two hands
Yea, thats kind of how this felt. I would get under it though and visibly inspect it to help confirm. Take the wheel off to get the best visual of everything.
I am owner of my altima 2015 since new. At 10K, I complained to Nissan how uncomfortable it was to drive at over 50MPH. It feels like it drives to the right, then to the left on an even straight road. and have keep both hands on the wheel doing light right and left pushes to keep it in the lane. I wonder if people behind me think I am drunk! The dealer told me they could not make any adjustments since it is all electrical. I've dealt with this issue since car was new. New tires and alignments have not fixed the issue.
My step-by-step Control Arm Replacement how-to:
ua-cam.com/video/xJ7O0GYQ0J4/v-deo.htmlsi=UN8P62QzjRmV4ffl
15 Altima with 180+k miles still running original LCAs 🙏🙏 thank you for posting all the video working on your Altima. I watched every single of them and followed step by step to fix mines when needed.
Awesome man good to hear! And I truly appreciate the support & comment!
Just found your videos, going to help me get my Altima to 200k!!! Same issues control arms and gasket on engine. Vids are good scares you enough to know it's not a simple oil change but shows can be done!
Glad to hear you found the channel 🙏 good luck with the car I’m always hear to help if it’s something i can shed light on 👍
I have a 2016. I live in the country and work nights. I was driving home, it was completely dark. No street lights in the county. I came around a blind corner and hit a dead huge buck. I swerved so I didnt full on hit the whole buck, just clipped his back end but enough that I felt my car catch some air. It cracked my bumper and thought I got lucky until my tires started wearing unevenly. 6 months ago I bought 2 new tires but the tire shop put them on the back which I thought was odd but never said anything. So last week I got 2 more tires for the front and the tech said, "Im not sure what happened to cause your cracked bumper but.....he suggested LCR and sway bar links. He told me that the sway bar links will cause the feeling of driving on ice when stopping. I haven't checked yet but Im hoping you have a "sway bar replacement" video. I'm a 57 yo female and your video will be saving me $1,400 because I'll be doing this myself. Thank you so much for your video's.
Great to hear about you DIY’ing! Good stuff, love to hear it 👍
As far as your issue, I would definitely think something got slightly bent when you hit it. I would bank on the control arm considering the scenario, but couldn’t hurt to replace endlinks as well, as they are pretty cheap and job is straightforward. I don’t have any videos for endlinks yet however.
But bad sway bar bushings/links can definitely give you that feeling, however I feel that bad control arms create that “on ice” feeling even more. But if I were in your shoes I l would go ahead and do the control arms, endlinks & then get an alignment and see how it feels!
Just some insight…When a hit is the cause of the issue, its leaves a lot of options on the table. I did a car one time that hit a curb and it was professionally diagnosed to replace the control arm, the strut, the rack&pinion/tie rods, endlinks & wheel bearing. The quote was astronomical of course and I did the job for the customer, as they wanted to do it all. Wheel was still off a hair after completion, and then I realized it was the actual knuckle itself. I replaced the knuckle as the last component and voila. Figured I’d share just to keep in mind.
Lmk how it goes!
Dam!!! Are you serious? So proud of you doing it. I just did it and yeah it was a $1500 job they suggested to replace struts and sway bars but I replaced, bearings, control arms, struts, sway bars and tie rods. I will take it for alignment.
Hello
Great video.
Are the 2013 coupe and sedan LCA's the same ?
Im seeing online that they are different.
Thanks
They are not. Technically the 2013 coupe is a 4th gen.
Always was told to put pressure under control arm when torquing. Possibly to ride height other wise bushings will wear out.
I did torque these under load to take no chances, as I outlined in the video. But honestly I’ve torqued quite a few control arms without loading with no issues. I had a ‘99 Altima and I torqued LCA on it without loading and they lasted longer than the car lol.
Not necessary the way the Nissan control arm bushings are mounted.
Yep I noticed the same drift on my 14 2.5 and I also replaced control arm with the beck although I'm not getting the balding of the tires ..
Well if they are bad/going bad, really only a matter of time!
love your videos. I have nissan altima 2015, which has 133k miles and i have never replaced control arms. Any recommendation when should i replace it? Also, my car hesitate on low rpm, any suggestion what is wrong with it.
I appreciate the comment!
As far as replacing the control arms….they really aren’t a maintenance wear item you replace periodically…like spark plugs for example. You just want to replace them when they start feeling noticeable, and partnered with bushing wear. They should be tight, I reviewed how to check them in the video. As long as they are tight and you aren’t experiencing any symptoms of bad LCA’s, you’re fine.
As far as hesitation at low RPM, thats hard to diagnose over the internet. That’s something someone really needs to feel/experience along with looking at live-data on a OBDII scanner. Could be something as simple as spark plugs. It seems as though a lot of time with hesitation issues with these cars it is transmission related, but I don’t want to scare you as thats not the only possibility. I would suggest having it evaluated by someone who can accurately check everything and pinpoint the issue vs. just playing the guessing game and replacing random parts.
Might be your crank sensor . Especially if it does it on and off or consistently
I changed ine twice i think. Honestly indont remember but idk if it was the front kr rear i had to get nissan control arms and they were expensive.
I think I only changed the expensive control arms once and the moog twice. Maybe... I would have to look. I have 430k though on my altima
@@occckid123 wow 430k?! That’s impressive!!
@@TheOriginalBeeCee yes but I'm having an issue where it's misfiring randomly over the last 40k miles. Had 3 compression test done. All good. P0304 and p0300 and also a p0219e random code that comes sometimes. I changed sparks coil and fuel injectors. No fix. Even the fuel pump. Dealer Saif maybe it could be timing that it's better to just put a used engine for cheap in it instead of doing the timing chain job. Ughh...
I also watched 1 of your other videos where someone said don't do aftermarket valve cover because the clearance might not be correct causing issues. I don't have any oil leaking. My sparks did foul quick with in 6k miles or so 1 time but no oil leaks.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee yes
Really strange how quickly the bushings in the Beck-Arnley LCAs wore out. Here's hoping the MOOG LCAs are much longer lasting. I checked the price of the OEM LCAs. $450 per side - yikes!!!! The OEM LCAs are still on my 14 Altima 2.5S with 138K miles. No issues with the steering or rapid tire wear (yet).
Seriously! I appreciate it though! But man where ever you saw that price you need to stop looking there!! Lol.
Coulter Nissan Parts is the cheapest & most reliable oem nissan parts source I’ve found! Only $283 a side:
www.coulterpartscenter.com/oem-parts/nissan-driver-left-front-lower-control-arm-545013ta0b?c=bD0xJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHMmYT1uaXNzYW4mbz1hbHRpbWEmeT0yMDE0JnQ9c2wmZT0yLTVsLWw0LWdhcw%3D%3D
@@TheOriginalBeeCee Didn't shop around for the best price - mainly curious as to what the MSRP was. The OEMs from coulter are still nearly twice as much as the MOOGs.
@@thx1138guy yea they definitely aren’t cheap!
Hi I have tight power steering and dealer is suggesting to replace rack and pinion besides the control arms tie rods for 5k. Which by itself is crazy expensive but you think I shouldn’t just try trepkacing the control arms and see if it fixes things?
That’s kind of hard to say without seeing it and experiencing the issue. But yea, $5K is ridiculous. I would suggest putting the front end in the air on jackstands and go over it.
Look for bushing wear on the control arms similar to what i showed in the video. If they are all cracked up, then definitely replace them. Could be your problem alone. But i would also look at the outer tie rod ends, see if they have bushing cracks. Depending on your mileage probably couldn’t hurt to replace the outer & inner tie rods. But you just need to evaluate everything and confirm the condition of these parts. Check out my outer tie rod end video, i have some insight on suspension diagnosis in the first 5 minutes of that video.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee hello, i was having the same issue, i just fixed it by doing power steering fluid flush, basically changing the old oil with the new oil completely from the system. it was pretty easy and cheep. after the fix my issue was solved. i would suggest you to try it as its very cheep, if it fixes your issue you will be saving lots of money.
2014 Altima with 190k and original LCR. Am I risking it everytime I drive to work? My car feels like a rollercoaster. It goes up and down a ton. Dealer wanted 2k. I'm thinking about replacing everything. LCRs, outer and inner tie rods, struts. Gonna be fun
I think you answered your own question stating it feels like a rollercoaster lol. Did you have the dealer diagnose the issue?
Yup they recommended replacing the LCRs and the tie rods. I just got my moog LRCs. I'm going to take the struts out entirely same with the tir rods. Does it help to take off the axel nut as well?
Naaa you dont need to take the axle nut off for any reason
Mine is doing the exact same thing, its like it drifts in a curve and sterring wheel has slow response.
Any update on the new control arms? Looking to get this brand too.
Still like new 👍👍👍
I have same issue. My control arms and ball joints were bad so I changed it but still wears out quickly on my car. Maybe suspension issue
Very weird!
I’m a single mother of 3 kids and I do it all I mean I save any way I can I do my own plumbing, carpentry,etc ive been buying n selling cars for past 8yrs but iv been struggling with the a 2014 Altima s only 110,000 miles tires all have different levels of wear n tear from moderate to HOLY SHIT, any bump turn change in elevation and there a LOUD CLUNKING & RATTLING , steering wheel does this EXCORSIST TYPE 360 TURN on the smallest curves, has play, sometimes for just a second it feels like I’m on verge of losing control, my bushings look good and there’s no play when my hands on 9oclock and 3 o’clock but I noticed motor jumping so I figured motor mounts I did my torque strut and hydraulic mount and then week later after it continued to do it I changed bottom mount well GUESS WHAT ? NOT ONLY IS IT STILL DOING IT but NOW my steering wheel is hard to turn at times like power steering may be going out !! Any suggestions Please….
Good for you on doing all your own work! Awesome to hear! Sorry to hear about the steering/control problems.
I would look into the p/s system / tie rods. If you are confident the control arms are tight and in good shape, i would move to the inner tie rods and check them out. You can evaluate them to a degree with every intact, but might be worth popping the outer tie rod end out and really see if the have a lot of play…they would be extremely loose and easy to move with a lot of play. Good inner tie rods should be tight and take some force to move around. I demonstrate this in my inner tie rod video:
ua-cam.com/video/4Sh9EpzLIP4/v-deo.htmlsi=4wzWxsAeurjPExbH
I also have an outer tie rod video that has some diagnostic steps in the first 5 minutes of the video:
ua-cam.com/video/59okF0oTIxU/v-deo.htmlsi=Wr4Jk2ds_eFb54zF
The inner tie rods can definitely make this cars steering feel really bad at times when failing. Let me know what you find!
I’m surprised the alignment people didn’t notice
I’m not. Most people don’t care about their job or how good they do it. They just go through the motions. Damn Nissan dealer with Nissan techs didn’t even notice.
I used moog, hopefully it works god.
When you drive faster like between 40mph-60mph did you feel like the steering wheel turns to freely and loosely like if your driving with one hand or let go just a little it would run off the road?
My steering feels comfortable at lower speeds but as I go faster feels like I'm skating or on a roller coaster and have to take caution and steer with two hands
Yea, thats kind of how this felt. I would get under it though and visibly inspect it to help confirm. Take the wheel off to get the best visual of everything.
I am owner of my altima 2015 since new. At 10K, I complained to Nissan how uncomfortable it was to drive at over 50MPH. It feels like it drives to the right, then to the left on an even straight road. and have keep both hands on the wheel doing light right and left pushes to keep it in the lane. I wonder if people behind me think I am drunk! The dealer told me they could not make any adjustments since it is all electrical. I've dealt with this issue since car was new. New tires and alignments have not fixed the issue.
Good job!
Appreciate the comment 🙏🙏🙏