Yo BeeCee! Over the past month, I changed the LCRs, struts, rotors, and brake pads on my Altima all with the help of your videos. I even did a partial spill and fill with my transmission (partial because I hadn't touch the fluid since I got it). Thanks a lot man. I learned a lot, saved money (I'm thinking at least 3k), and best of all my car is driving great. Keep up the great work
Thanks for the torque specs and great video. I've done this before but lost the specs. smh also thanks about where the rubber should go that one threw my mind out because when I removed them my first time didn't know there was a difference in the pins. 😂
I discovered open the bleeder valve when compressing the piston back in, this prevents and damage to the abs Just open it until you see fluid and then compress the piston, close the valve once it’s tight. After wards you will need to add fluid to the reservoir. Do not open the cap until you are done with the job and have started the car and pumped the brakes, move and make sure they work, then open the cap and top off 👍👍
I looked at Nissan's service manual (2013), and they did not mention opening the bleeder valve when compressing the piston back in. Here is the exact verbiage: "Using a suitable tool, press in piston until brake pads can be installed, and then install brake caliper torque member. CAUTION: When replacing brake pads with new ones, check brake fluid level in the reservoir tank because brake fluid returns to master cylinder reservoir tank when pressing piston in. NOTE: Use a disc brake piston tool (commercial service tool) to easily press piston." So is your concern valid for other years of Altima's? Or is this valid for other vehicles?? With regards to the caution, If one has added brake fluid right before replacing the pads, the master cylinder reservoir can overflow... But I don't see any concern by Nissan to any potential damage to the ABS system. Thanks
I just replaced my brakes. After replacing the rear brakes the parking brake doesn't have enough tension anymore to lock the rear brakes. Did I miss a step or do I just need to adjust the shoes out a little? IF so, do I turn the adjust up or down? THanks for the great tutorial. I now have the brakes replaced and the transmission fluid/filters replaced. 216K miles on my 2015 and it's running nice and smooth. Hope to get another 100K out of it.
@@TheOriginalBeeCeeYes, I replaced the Rotors. I guess I assumed they would be the drum would have the same dimensions as the original Drum. I guess I just need to loosen the calipers so the rotor spins freely and adjust the shoes until the drum holds and back off a little from there. By the way, do you have or have you thought of doing a radiator flush on the Altima? I'd love to see that.
@@briananderson7497 yea, you might need to adjust them accordingly. Also, if you haven’t ensure the inner rotor is super clean. They put oil on new rotors for shelf longevity, so ensure its all gone because that definitely wouldn’t help either. But i plan to do one in the near future, ive had quite a few people ask me about doing one!
@@TheOriginalBeeCee I will work on that this weekend. Thanks for the input. I've learned a lot from you. Honestly, best step by step mechanical work on youtube. Hands down.
i might add if your rubber sleeve is bad or swollen and won't go back into the caliper it is just a anti rattle part and if the local part stores dont have them in stock, which most stores wont ,they are not a safety issue to not put them back in in order to finish your brake job
Great video thanks for posting. I am a problem with something squeaking when we apply the brakes. I’ve had this apart 3 times putting grease everywhere and still having this problem. The brakes are Duralast Gold and the rotors came from Autozone too. Any ideas anyone ? I’ve followed these directions to the T Thank you everyone for reading
Well actually… i was asking because if you did replace them, i would think they would be the culprit. A lot of time new brake hardware isn’t perfect and you are better off using the OE hardware. So you did what i would have suggested. But maybe in your case the OE hardware is deformed and/or just worn. There is always that possibility. So maybe try the new hardware and see where that gets you. Let me know!
You can if it makes you feel better, but most definitely don’t have to, and I don’t. In fact, all the FSM recommends is siphoning (turkey baster) some fluid out of reservoir, to prevent it overflowing from compressing. Same recommendation from Haynes manuals, etc. I actually don’t even do that though. What i’ve been doing for a little while that I really like is after I’m done each corner, go back in car and pump brakes a few times….and build the pedal back up stiff to get all the fluid basically back in the corner. Haven’t had any fluid overflow yet or anything utilizing this method. And i could be crazy, but I think it helps to really have an even better nice solid stiff pedal when the job is done.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee this method still working for you? i'm replacing my brakes for the first time. just got the front set on today, doing rear tomorrow. tested it out & seems fine, followed what you said here. sidenote: do u know any indicator for when to bleed the brakes or mess with fluid? i'm worried about messing up my ABS.
Whats up man. A little late but yes, that’s how I do all my brake jobs now. Works great. As for messing with the fluid, its a very opinionated subject. A lot of people/service guides etc will day 30-60k swap it, ive seen people recommend 100k, etc. personally as long as its functioning as it should & not dark/dirty looking, i leave it alone. I don’t do it to often.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee thanks for the comment! I couldn’t find the torque specs anywhere until your video was recommended to me a week after I already changed my brakes lol so I torqued the 22mm bolts to 94 ft lbs becaus I also have a Honda odyssey and the lug nuts happen to be 22mm as well and has 94 ft lbs torque lol
Thats hard to say man, very subjective question. Depends on use, prior maintenance, etc. some need to be changed at 30k miles, some could make it to 100k+. Just depends on their condition. Rotors should be flat and smooth, there shouldn’t be a lip on the edge of them, nor any grooving on unevenness on the face of the rotor. So its really just a matter of their condition via visual inspection vs. an actually mileage.
@@juniorromeo9905 they should be super smooth to the touch, so if you can feel anything while running your finger across the surface of them, then i would replace them.
Your videos are so informative. I’m doing this tomorrow but on the rogue. Should be Generally the same steps. Do a starter video on the Altima 2.5 next. Thank you.
I appreciate it Carl! Thank you 🙏 and yes should be very similar on the Rouge! And if the starter goes on this Altima I’ll definitely be doing a video on it!
Where do you get your impact adapter/sockets? I have a dewalt impact like yours but would love to get a nice set of impact sockets I could use for car work. Just used your valve cover video (watched about 4 times plus the 5th to do the job), much appreciated!
Appreciate the comment! But wherever i can get them the cheapest / best deal lol. IIRC i think i got my Dewalt impact sockets from home depot’s website.
Could be a combination of different things, but more than likely either the replacement was prolonged and the brakes should have been done earlier, and/or the caliper is seizing. Rear calipers are good for freezing up and seizing, that would be noticeable once the caliper was taken off and the piston was attempted to be retracted. Would be really stiff, and/or not retract at all.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee I really hate to ask you another question, but you’re such a huge help! And feel like you should be paid for your information 😂. My wife unfortunately hit a curb pretty hard in the passenger front and ever since then the car shakes violently when braking around 60-80mph and typically only going downhill, any idea what this could be?
@@TheOriginalBeeCee nope only when braking, and not even necessarily on flat ground, usually only downhill and 60-80mph, she says the wheel jerks when braking sometimes but definitely shakes violently at higher speeds and downhill
@@alliewilcox8622 very interesting. Weird that its only doing it on braking after an impact. I would take the wheel off and visibly inspect everything very closely if you haven’t already. Check the wheel hub/bearing for tightness too, the wheel should be super stiff and have no play if you grab it at 9 & 3 and rock it. If nothing jumps out, maybe have the alignment and/or wheel checked. Wheel could be slightly bent, and if a suspension component is bent for example a good alignment shop should be able to identify it.
The rear brakes has the parking brakes within the disk, hence the "inpection hole", which is actually the hole to adjust the parking shoe brakes. and nothing wrong with german torque...GUD EN TIGHT
I’m not opposed to that, as I did that in the video if you watched the whole thing. But it would change absolutely nothing regardless if you do it or not.
Yo BeeCee! Over the past month, I changed the LCRs, struts, rotors, and brake pads on my Altima all with the help of your videos. I even did a partial spill and fill with my transmission (partial because I hadn't touch the fluid since I got it). Thanks a lot man. I learned a lot, saved money (I'm thinking at least 3k), and best of all my car is driving great. Keep up the great work
Truly awesome to hear man! I’m glad I was able to help 🙏 hopefully she lasts for many years to come!
Thanks for the torque specs and great video. I've done this before but lost the specs. smh also thanks about where the rubber should go that one threw my mind out because when I removed them my first time didn't know there was a difference in the pins. 😂
Lol trust me ive been there! But appreciate the comment man 🙏🙏🙏🙏
Yooo, the link to the jack tutorial is cluuuuutch. Another video done right.
Lol I appreciate that bro! 🙏🙏🙏
Thanks, friend! Very thorough, very useful. Thanks for the torque settings too! That's really professional of you.
Thank you! I appreciate the comment!!!
Hey so this will be my first time doing this job myself. Can anybody help list all the tools seen/needed for the job
appreciate this video.... I have a 2016 SL that I was hoping to do a brake job on.... this will help greatly!
Awesome! I appreciate the comment! 🙏
very intersting video..question about the RED, YELLOW, and GREEN plastic tool for measuring the BREAKS, could you give me the LINK to buy it.
Great video. Very detailed explanation, even a baby with SIDS could do a brake job after watching this. Thanks!
LOL 🙏🙏🙏 truly appreciate the comment!!
Until the axle is frozen
I discovered open the bleeder valve when compressing the piston back in, this prevents and damage to the abs
Just open it until you see fluid and then compress the piston, close the valve once it’s tight. After wards you will need to add fluid to the reservoir. Do not open the cap until you are done with the job and have started the car and pumped the brakes, move and make sure they work, then open the cap and top off 👍👍
This video made the job for me tho thank you very much sir!!
@@jakee8704 🙏
I looked at Nissan's service manual (2013), and they did not mention opening the bleeder valve when compressing the piston back in. Here is the exact verbiage:
"Using a suitable tool, press in piston until brake pads can be installed, and then install brake caliper torque member.
CAUTION:
When replacing brake pads with new ones, check brake fluid level in the reservoir tank because brake fluid returns to master cylinder reservoir tank when pressing piston in.
NOTE:
Use a disc brake piston tool (commercial service tool) to easily press piston."
So is your concern valid for other years of Altima's? Or is this valid for other vehicles?? With regards to the caution, If one has added brake fluid right before replacing the pads, the master cylinder reservoir can overflow... But I don't see any concern by Nissan to any potential damage to the ABS system.
Thanks
I just replaced my brakes. After replacing the rear brakes the parking brake doesn't have enough tension anymore to lock the rear brakes. Did I miss a step or do I just need to adjust the shoes out a little? IF so, do I turn the adjust up or down? THanks for the great tutorial. I now have the brakes replaced and the transmission fluid/filters replaced. 216K miles on my 2015 and it's running nice and smooth. Hope to get another 100K out of it.
Nice! As far as parking brake, did you replace rotors too?
@@TheOriginalBeeCeeYes, I replaced the Rotors. I guess I assumed they would be the drum would have the same dimensions as the original Drum. I guess I just need to loosen the calipers so the rotor spins freely and adjust the shoes until the drum holds and back off a little from there. By the way, do you have or have you thought of doing a radiator flush on the Altima? I'd love to see that.
@@briananderson7497 yea, you might need to adjust them accordingly. Also, if you haven’t ensure the inner rotor is super clean. They put oil on new rotors for shelf longevity, so ensure its all gone because that definitely wouldn’t help either.
But i plan to do one in the near future, ive had quite a few people ask me about doing one!
@@TheOriginalBeeCee I will work on that this weekend. Thanks for the input. I've learned a lot from you. Honestly, best step by step mechanical work on youtube. Hands down.
@@briananderson7497 thanks so much man! I truly appreciate the comment 🙏🙏
i might add if your rubber sleeve is bad or swollen and won't go back into the caliper it is just a anti rattle part and if the local part stores dont have them in stock, which most stores wont ,they are not a safety issue to not put them back in in order to finish your brake job
Agreed
Great video thanks for posting. I am a problem with something squeaking when we apply the brakes. I’ve had this apart 3 times putting grease everywhere and still having this problem. The brakes are Duralast Gold and the rotors came from Autozone too. Any ideas anyone ? I’ve followed these directions to the T
Thank you everyone for reading
Did you use new brake hardware when performing the replacement?
Actually no. I took the guides out and cleaned real well. I guess that’s the next step
Thank you so much for the response
Well actually… i was asking because if you did replace them, i would think they would be the culprit. A lot of time new brake hardware isn’t perfect and you are better off using the OE hardware. So you did what i would have suggested.
But maybe in your case the OE hardware is deformed and/or just worn. There is always that possibility. So maybe try the new hardware and see where that gets you. Let me know!
Thank you for your detail and clarity! this really helps. keep up the good work!👍
Awesome! Thank you for the comment!
Great video man. Look forward to seeing you more
Appreciate the comment 🙏
Should you open the break fluid reservoir?
You can if it makes you feel better, but most definitely don’t have to, and I don’t.
In fact, all the FSM recommends is siphoning (turkey baster) some fluid out of reservoir, to prevent it overflowing from compressing. Same recommendation from Haynes manuals, etc.
I actually don’t even do that though. What i’ve been doing for a little while that I really like is after I’m done each corner, go back in car and pump brakes a few times….and build the pedal back up stiff to get all the fluid basically back in the corner. Haven’t had any fluid overflow yet or anything utilizing this method. And i could be crazy, but I think it helps to really have an even better nice solid stiff pedal when the job is done.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee this method still working for you? i'm replacing my brakes for the first time. just got the front set on today, doing rear tomorrow. tested it out & seems fine, followed what you said here.
sidenote: do u know any indicator for when to bleed the brakes or mess with fluid? i'm worried about messing up my ABS.
Whats up man. A little late but yes, that’s how I do all my brake jobs now. Works great. As for messing with the fluid, its a very opinionated subject. A lot of people/service guides etc will day 30-60k swap it, ive seen people recommend 100k, etc. personally as long as its functioning as it should & not dark/dirty looking, i leave it alone. I don’t do it to often.
do you need to flush the brake fluid adter
or i mean bleed the fluid
If it’s dark & old you might want to consider it. It’s not a necessity though, really just dependent on the fluid condition.
If my front brackets were torqued to 94 is it still fine? feels tight
They’ll be fine thats not that far off, minimal difference. any reason why only 94 though? Lol
@@TheOriginalBeeCee thanks for the comment! I couldn’t find the torque specs anywhere until your video was recommended to me a week after I already changed my brakes lol so I torqued the 22mm bolts to 94 ft lbs becaus I also have a Honda odyssey and the lug nuts happen to be 22mm as well and has 94 ft lbs torque lol
Hahaha ahh i got ya. Not a bad philosophy lol
Do power steering fluid next bro!!
Hey bro, how many Km/s or time I need change the rotors for my nissan altima 2015?
thanks for support !!
Thats hard to say man, very subjective question. Depends on use, prior maintenance, etc. some need to be changed at 30k miles, some could make it to 100k+. Just depends on their condition.
Rotors should be flat and smooth, there shouldn’t be a lip on the edge of them, nor any grooving on unevenness on the face of the rotor. So its really just a matter of their condition via visual inspection vs. an actually mileage.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee So, if my disc have a scratches when touch it teh same not its normal? whats happen if I just rectified?
@@juniorromeo9905 they should be super smooth to the touch, so if you can feel anything while running your finger across the surface of them, then i would replace them.
Your videos are so informative. I’m doing this tomorrow but on the rogue. Should be Generally the same steps. Do a starter video on the Altima 2.5 next. Thank you.
I appreciate it Carl! Thank you 🙏 and yes should be very similar on the Rouge! And if the starter goes on this Altima I’ll definitely be doing a video on it!
What is the difference between these rotors and pads as opposed to a cheaper brand?
Really just quality. How long they last, how much they rust, the amount of brake dust they create, etc. etc.
Where do you get your impact adapter/sockets? I have a dewalt impact like yours but would love to get a nice set of impact sockets I could use for car work. Just used your valve cover video (watched about 4 times plus the 5th to do the job), much appreciated!
Appreciate the comment! But wherever i can get them the cheapest / best deal lol. IIRC i think i got my Dewalt impact sockets from home depot’s website.
Harbor freight has good impact sockets.
Where did u get the torque specs information at?
Nissan FSM
Awesome vid and tips. ready to do this for my friend.
Appreciate it! Good luck with job! 👍
This is a really good video thank you
Appreciate the comment!
Great video. Do more!
🙏🙏🙏
great video helped me out a lot thank you
Appreciate the comment thank you!
Why would the rear pads wear unevenly?
Could be a combination of different things, but more than likely either the replacement was prolonged and the brakes should have been done earlier, and/or the caliper is seizing. Rear calipers are good for freezing up and seizing, that would be noticeable once the caliper was taken off and the piston was attempted to be retracted. Would be really stiff, and/or not retract at all.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee I really hate to ask you another question, but you’re such a huge help! And feel like you should be paid for your information 😂. My wife unfortunately hit a curb pretty hard in the passenger front and ever since then the car shakes violently when braking around 60-80mph and typically only going downhill, any idea what this could be?
@@alliewilcox8622 lol well like & subscribe will definitely help me get paid!! Lol. 🙏🙏🙏 and it only shakes when braking? Doesn’t do it while driving?
@@TheOriginalBeeCee nope only when braking, and not even necessarily on flat ground, usually only downhill and 60-80mph, she says the wheel jerks when braking sometimes but definitely shakes violently at higher speeds and downhill
@@alliewilcox8622 very interesting. Weird that its only doing it on braking after an impact. I would take the wheel off and visibly inspect everything very closely if you haven’t already. Check the wheel hub/bearing for tightness too, the wheel should be super stiff and have no play if you grab it at 9 & 3 and rock it. If nothing jumps out, maybe have the alignment and/or wheel checked. Wheel could be slightly bent, and if a suspension component is bent for example a good alignment shop should be able to identify it.
The rear brakes has the parking brakes within the disk, hence the "inpection hole", which is actually the hole to adjust the parking shoe brakes.
and nothing wrong with german torque...GUD EN TIGHT
Wow I’m doing this next.
Thank you
🙏🙏🙏🙏
Why not use blue lock tight on those 4 bolts
Because not necessary. They do not come with loctite from factory either.
You should cleaned the abutment hardware if ur not going to use new hardware
I’m not opposed to that, as I did that in the video if you watched the whole thing. But it would change absolutely nothing regardless if you do it or not.