Excellent video explaining engine knock in the big end. I've looked for a video for a long time and your video really explains everything I wanted to know the best! Thank you!
You have given a wonderful explaination. I have taken sand paper and a boot string and cleaned cranks and polished cranks with the engine still in the car. I have used standard sized bearings both rod and main and repaired engines still running to this day. The main thing is when you hear a rod knocking. TURN IT OFF, Do not start again until you replace the bearings and it can usually be saved. If you run it too long then the crank will need turned with oversized bearings or replaced all together. Your video is great and you did a wonderful job. But it's not always horrible. If you don;t run it too long once you hear the spun bearing. KEEP GOOD CLEAN OIL IN THE CAR! That is the deal.
My engine has rod knock and probably has about a couple mins ran on it like that, how do I know when I drop everything if the bearing has become oversized?
My experience with small engines (anything from 4hp single cylinder Briggs to 25hp V-Twin kawasaki) is that once internal issues such as these develop it is usually (probably 90% of the time) cheaper to replace the engine itself, unfortunately there's no way to know without taking the bad one apart but doing that also incurs labor hence cost. You want to save money, replace the engine itself boils it down to a specific figure, tearing the bad one apart involves variable costs that could very well run higher than just replacing it.
Its different in automotive, but I find it's almost always cheaper to rebuild than replace. The more expensive the vehicle the more expensive the new engine will cost. Parts on the other hand don't rise as fast as well as the labor. Also depends if you're talking NEW or good used engines. Botton line for us at the shop is New is the most expensive followed by used then rebuilt which in turn is like new therefore the best and cheapest option for most customers.
This started for me tonight when I got on my bike and took off to go to work. Thank you. Definitely helped me understand what I'm probably up against *and* providing some information on what to look for, both with the bike itself and any parts I may(... Will.... She's my baby...) buy to replace the ones in the bike.
Thanks for the video! I'm about to get into mine... Lost all the oil while driving and it seized.. Guess I gotta pull it apart and check the top and bottom end, hey? Not to mention find where the leak was and hope it isn't a cracked block... I'm just a weekend warrior... This'll be the biggest job I've done. 😵💫 So thanks for all the tips!! At least having UA-cam and forums is way better than just the Haynes like back in the day, lol.
An oil pressure gauge is very important because you'll notice low oil pressure time before you break the engine (normal use of the car). I think even that's why the old Benz are so reliable...
That's all good and well - but on most new cars (and by new I mean newer than the past 20 years) the gauge is 'fake' just like the temp gauge is 'fake'. It will sit conviently dead centre to look pretty until there as an issue, then all of a sudden skyrocket (in the case of temp) or drop (in the case of oil). If you mean the purchase of an aftermarket properly fitted one I couldn't agree more.
The gauges are not fake, when it goes out of normal range you are supposed to stop driving the vehicle until you or a mechanic can fix the problem. Most just keep driving and see what happens.
@@motorcarnut Fair point. I suppose I should have said 'not in realtime' - as in they don't fluctuate until there is a problem; ie on my old TJ Jeep the oil pressure gauge will fluctuate and show exactly what the pressure is at any given time. On my newer Grand it just sits there dead centre. Yep you are meant to stop driving as soon as it's noticed - but I think people are more likely to notice a slow increase or decrease because they have time to recognise it - the way most of the new gauges work unless you are constantly scanning the dash it's easier to miss the sudden uptick or drop.
Just happened to my mx5 nc, bought the car for piss cheap as my first car and im taking it upon myself to fix it with 0 mechanical experience 😂 if im gona scrap it anyway i might aswell learn a few things
This happened to my Yukon Denali 2004 I’m gonna rebuild the engine with gen 4 rods and pistons new crankshaft and everything an honestly I don’t care if it broke 😂😂imma rebuild it an race an have fun thank you for your video I just need some context keep making videos bro thank you😊
Excellent video, but I kept wondering why do you keep on placing the rod on the wrong position on the crank, where it does not belong (to the center not moving part)?
Thank you!, Yes, this video is explaining the rod knock noise and not a rebuild video.I was just showing how the noise is created and used the main journal on the crankshaft as an example.
Excellent video describing the revered spun rod bearing issue common in Kia's and Hyundai's. Unfortunately, I am in the same boat but it happened to a car I shipped overseas as a gift to my Mom. After paying all that HIGH import duty I am done with Hyundai's for good. Working on locating a replacement engine for the 2016 Santa Fe 3.3 v6 engine. Would you or anyone recommend a used engine or a rebuilt engine (any recommendation?).
This is The BEST video I found on this issue. Most videos show people sanding down the rod journal and reaplcing the bearing, but they don't tell you that it is a band-aid fix and doesn't last😂. This is the correct way to do the job. Buy a new crank , new bearings, and a new rod or rods .
What does it mean when someone says the “rod is spun”? I’m looking at buying a truck where this is the issue and trying to determine if it’s worth the price at the discount it’s being offered. Thanks for this visual! This was a great video!
Thank you! It means the engine has to be rebuilt or replaced. Spun bearing is because engine suffered low or no engine oil so it’s a big job if you’re not mechanically inclined.
Excellent video, I have a 2012 Ford F250 I just started getting a knocking sound coming from the inside of the oil pan I'm thinking it's a rod bearing any idea what it could be.
Just happened on my infinity vr30ddtt redsport it’s at the dealer right now and I have warranty so hopefully since all my levels (coolant and oil) were topped off and maintenance records are good that I won’t be put at fault for the knock….. I have coolant coming out of my exhaust, milky oil cap… bad head gasket is the suspect of the knocking I’m assuming? Any other thoughts
The problem that results from this wear is that the shavings that are produced mix with the oil and are absorbed by the oil pump, whose internal parts are metallic and must be completely smooth for good performance. These shavings scratch and wear these parts, causing a drop in pressure in the system and oil starvation in the engine.
Real Good video! very informational for anyone attempting to lift the engine, remove the oil pan and then the FUN BEGINS! dont forget the plastic gauge Or least MIC the Crank and rod journals! with the correct torque specifications. STUDY STUDY and STUDY as much as you can before attempting this type of work AND YOU WILL HAVE SUCCESSES//ACCOMPLISHMENTS many many times thru the years! in the name of LORD JESUS AMEN
Very nice video friend. Thanks! My 2004 HEMI Ram started a few months ago. 64,000 miles. Bought it new and have tried to take care of it. Wish I had the set up I’d do it myself but it’s probably done for.
i once rinse air filter dry it out but not completely (2016 elantra) started the engine it worked for seconds and stall since then engine is working okay but there is always weird new noise sound like piston slap maybe rod bent a bit cause water is not compressible? and once engine warm up after 5 minutes its gone maybe rings or sleeve expand or something but it’s diffidently not spun rod bearing or cam ticking its intermittent but always there i just dont get it i once suspected maybe loose intake runner flap what would you suspect if you put a barely wet air filter? i really dry it with air gun before i put it back
Thank Pro ! I can call you a teacher You lesson Explain very clearly ! As I think the knock sound , might be due to the oil not supply , reason is neck somewhere ?😊
Great video Man! QUESTION for you- 1964 Olds 88 with a 394- it leaked bad when I bought it so I pulled the engine and replaced the gaskets- all the gaskets, except the heads. I was told the heads were done but the exhaust was so bad I didn't really drive the car, just towed it home and pulled the engine. Rebuilt the carb, the starter, new power steering pump.. everything. Back in the car now, it sounds great at start up but after maybe 10 minutes, it starts to knock. I suspected this might happen- so, can I do this myself, in my garage or do I need a machine shop? Can it be done without a machine shop? I know a guy- but he's expensive and really busy. What do you think? I'd value your feedback on this...
Thank you! Appreciated. So since you know how to pull the engine I’d say yes! If it’s knocking changes are the crankshaft and at least one connecting rod will have to be replaced. Along with the rod and main bearings. Now depending on how much damage there is you may get lucky and the crankshaft is fine and can just be polished up ( I have a video on that) but no machine shop needed. You’re sure it’s a rod knock and not something in the valve train?
I have a 2013 S550 that has had a knocking noise for the last 2 years. The car runs like new the gas mileage is excellent power is normal and I do only highway driving rarely in the city. The dealer says drive the car it’s not worth it to repair. There is no metal in the oil which I change every 5-6000 miles even though Mercedes recommends every 12000 miles. Do you think that my problem is what you are describing . By the way I have never had the check engine light go on.
Yours can be ignition ping (knocking) if you’re not using premium fuel or maybe a piston slap. If it were a rod knock it wouldn’t last very long at all.
Yes it is worth R & R the rod BUSHINGS and lower main BUSHINGS>>>>>if they did not score the crankshaft, It is a TIME CONSUMING project BUTT is well worth the time and parts. ONE item i do recommend doing since the bottom end is opened up REPLACE the oil pump. Replace Oil and filter and run the engine 1500 - 2000RPM for 45 mins to 1hr. AND stay ohoff the hard throttle for at least 2000miles stay under 3000RPM if it all possible
I have a problem on my Mercedes e220 cdi and the guy from grinding machine told me that the crankshaft is gone and it can’t be repaired Do you recommend to be replaced with genuine one or it’s ok with aftermarket one? Thanks
That's a great question. It depends on a couple of things, like is the car worth the extra money? is the cost between the OEM and aftermarket that much difference in price? Etc. If you really want to keep the car i'd go for orig. part however you can try to find online a remanufactured OEM crank or a used OEM good one on ebay and still save some money.
@Motorcarnut the problem is I had this engine rebuild a year ago, then a month ago, the engine started to misfire I took it to my mechanic that did the work and told me it has a no compression in cylinder 5 and knocking sound coming from the engine. They didn't want to rebuild the engine again and told me to get it replaced. But right now, I can't afford to get a used or new one right now. So I'm looking for some help and advice on what should I do.
I thought an engine knock could be from a slightly bend piston arm . Got my car flooded was able to take water out and restarted but with a knocking sound from engine 😢
perhaps share insights on replacing bearings yourself.....engine in vehicle (if not too worn,damaged). Some very helpful videos on this using sandpaper and shoelace to polish
Problem with that is it will never last and I don't recommend that type of repair. Because things have to be precisely measured and you have to ask yourself why did it happen in the first place?
I change my own oil on my mustang but i take my kia to Valvoline.....got an oil change 3 weeks ago and last night my car started knocking so i got looking and there was no oil at all in the engine and the oil filter itself was only 3 full turns from coming off....
@@motorcarnut a mechanic just left from looking at it,they're going to tow it and start an investigation but he said since I put more oil in the engine and tightend the filter that its not going to work in my favor but im not going to leave a heated engine with no oil and not going to put oil in it without retightening the filter but there is oil every where around the filter
@@motorcarnut they done fucked me,they towed it in and performed an oil change and changed the filter hidden behind the words inspection and investigation
It does vary from 1 to 4. Oil bearing clearances are at 1000 of an inch so any disruption will cause a bearing to seize up. Mostly do to neglected oil changes or leaks not caught in time.
If can range dramatically on exactly what’s wrong with the engine, if you will put a used one in or rebuild the one you have. Either way can cost a couple thousand dollars easy.
@@nicodaniels130 if you jack your car up and drian the oil out and remove the oil pan under the engine some cars you can access the pistons rods and the crank shaft right there and you can change them out from underneath with out removing the whole engine that is if its just the rod bearings, if there is piston problem or or a piston rod problem then yeah you might have to take the engine out, but then again some cars you can get away with removing just the engine head and accessing tbe pistons and rods while its the rest of the engine is still mounted in your vehicle
Any way I can email a video of my old 46 caddy to see if it is in fact a rod knock? Trying to decipher the problem on my old car, great video and thanks for the info
@@motorcarnutmind checking my recent short for this same question? Pretty sure it’s a rod knock and will take it in regardless but not sure if it’ll be worth it 😢 hopefully it’s an affordable fix
Hi, Mechanic opened up the entire engine and found the ONE Rod cap was fitted upside down which damaged that one conrod groove and the one big end bearing that went on that conrod. He said in order to fix up that knocking noise, we must get: ●1 conrod ●Polish crankshaft (crankshaft was not damaged) ●Change all big end bearings since it comes in a set when bought. (My argument was why change all big end bearings when just the one bearing was damaged because of the upside down rod CAP? What's the need to polish crankshaft if it wasn't damaged? Or it's fine if the engineer polishes it? I'm just worried why polish, what if it weakens the crankshaft. Thanks Is he right to change all the bearings?
His going to put the same standard size bearings because his not cutting the crank (only polishing crank) no need for undersized bearings. Is he correct?
If metal filings were not circulated in the engine and scored the other bearings then just replace that rod and rod bearings for that cylinder and just polish that one journal. If you’re on a budget. No polishing the crank will not weaken it. The way he wants to do it is the proper way but will cost more money and I would do it that way as well. But as stated, if your tight for money the other way will work.
Thanks. I am on a tight budget but the guy explained to me that he doesn't want to open up the engine again, he promised that if he fixes it his way now then i will not have issues again. BEARINGS come in a set so even if i change bearings for one rod i will still have to pay for the entire set of bearings when bought, hope you understand what im saying. Really disappointed that they don't sell lose rod bearings for one cylinder. Have to buy for all cylinders. I can find a lose rod? Don't want to buy 4 rods otherwise ill be in big debt. Struggling to find parts though for L15z engine. Only the honda dealer has got stock in south Africa. Dealers are very pricey.
Do you have instagram to where I can send you a video of my car just to make sure it’s a rod knock b4 I get it fixed, I had a mechanic tell me today the catalytic converter causing the noise but I don’t think it’s that
@@motorcarnut I have my car at dealership for warranty claim but they are refusing to replace engine claiming the noise is because of piston wear and not due to bearing wear knock , they use some type of tool to test it without opening engine and when I ask them that sound just started to come as soon as I get check engine light and there was no oil leak/burning before that they cant explain that and sys that we can see that cylinder walls are scraped , its a kia soul with engines under extended warranty due to rod bearing wear
If they did not find your oil level low, they must fix it as it is directly caused by oil starvation especially with the code P1326. That tool they used was a bore scope. Go to another dealership if possible or threaten to sue.
@@motorcarnut oil level was perfectly correct and car was not burning/leaking any oil , I confirm it before last 2 oil changes that oil level was ok before oil change (so no burning or leaking), there is already a class action law suite against them in Canada due to this issue but they are shamelessly not resolving it and lingering on, secondly refusal of engine change is coming from kia corporate as the service manger on kia dealership even show me their email showing that he requested a goodwill replacement of engine which they also deny , do you think taking it to another dealership can change bearing clearance test results or this this a good idea to talk to original dealership where this car was service throughout , the issue is that dealership is around 500KM from where i am currently living
I did experience the cranking sound in my engine Fiat Palio 1.2 and suddenly the car stops itself and after some few minutes I tried to start again and the sound was heavy so I opened the sump found metals like mud in the tray so can I fixed it without taking out head cylinder?
1996 Corvette LT1. The engine is quiet when cold (High oil pressure) and starts making a consistent Tapping noise when it gets hot. (Low oil pressure.) It sounds like it is coming from the top, right rear. The Corvette mechanic said he heard it from above more than from below. 4 new lifters did nothing. When he unplugged the spark wire, the sound changed (I don't know if it got louder or quieter or if the rhythm changed.) which he said sounded like it was a wrist pin, not a bearing. I have heard, louder would be a wrist pin, quieter would be the bearing. What do you think? Can the car be driven if it is the wrist pin?
No, The reason you don't hear it as much when spark plug is disconnected is because now that cylinder is not creating combustion so I think that's why the mechanic said wrist pin but could also be a bearing, sound travels.
So there’s no way to fix this? My car started doing this a couple days ago and idk what to do, I’m still in school and work part time so I don’t make much. But I don’t have a way to get to work or school now
I swear to god that bostonian accent gives me such vibes. It's like playing max payne or something and just listening to one of the gangsters explaining to his buddy, in detail, how a car engine works and why his ride is irreversably screwed lmao All joking aside though, this vid and your channel in general is great and informative but I just had to mention the accent
My crankshaf can turn by hand easily at a steady pace, but it will get harder to turn when it rotates to a certain point but when that hard point is passed it get easy again until it comes back around to that spot, Oh and all the pistons and rods are all put together and attached, but why is it doing this?
I dont understand the section where you talk about when you can reuse a piston and when you can not reuse a piston because i see on both sides like the lines. Tying to learn more about weared parts
If the pistons lose some of the black coating but still have those lines thought-out the both sides of the pistons they will be fine to reuse. If any lines are gone the piston should be replaced.
Just happened to mine. Would you recommend rebuilding or buying a used one. Rebuiding is cheaper but concerns that metal fragments would have damaged the rest of the engine.
@Motorcarnut I bought it a week ago and the engine started knocking. Metal found in the oil filter. Basically got scammed. Don't really know the history of the engine. Still think rebuild or used engine? Thanks mate
Start by removing the girdle and pulling caps off. Replacing bearings is the simplest way to fix it. However, that metal on metal contact, depending on how bad the bearing is, can scar and scratch the crank. If the crank is scarred too much then you'll need a new crank otherwise it'll just end up getting rod knock again sooner rather than later
I had engine knock did everything you said in the video even replace starter and diesel fuel filter we struggled starting the bakkie and the engine knock again and damaged the bearing what was the reason
Even doing this DYI if the vehicle is not worth at least $20k+ the cost of the parts can easily exceed the value of the vehicle and nOT pay todo i. Trade it in for a a better running pre-owned vehicle.
Well many factors come into play here. If I am doing my own vehicle, I'd definitely rebuild it then I have a new engine that's more reliable then someones pre owned vehicle and way cheaper and more reliable.
yeah my 05 ford didn’t show me oil pressure or anything so 😐lessons learned now a girl needs to learn how things work because i have no useful men in life, mechanic wouldn’t even take my warranty because apparently the vehicle is modified but i bought it as is and the dealership wanted me to get the warranty too. So i’m out 3k and have a truck that’s knocking
Find a useful man and these problems won’t arise. But don’t forget there is such a thing as a useful woman too, despite the teachings of the woke religion.
Depends on what type of engine. Some have two part oil pan and then a main bearing bridge that may block some of the journals. If you take the pan down and see all bearing journals then yes you can
Can you short cut , just replace bearing that’s got the slap, throw it back together,, how long would that last?? As brought a Rangerover ,, and a couple of months later it got this problem,
Hi, would you recommend using 10w40 or stay with 5w30 engine oil after rebuilding an engine which suffered a bearing knock? Which one would be best to use to make sure we don't suffer a bearing knock in future. 10w40 is a bit thicker than 5w30. Thanks
Most of the times the engine has to come out of the vehicle to replace them and usually it destroys the crank journals too so it's a big job and absolutely a mechanic can make mistakes and not measure oil bearing clearances etc.properly.
@@motorcarnut Even if the mechanic is putting new standard size rod bearings? Im pretty sure the mechanic knows about this things....im just stressing too much for nothing
Not true at all. The engine that you are rebuilding was once new too and look what happened? If done right will last just as long as a new engine and besides most people can't afford brand new engine or if its even worth it.
@Motorcarnut oh idk sorry I just had this happen to me and I've check valve covers and tomorrow imma check piston bearings I was just told for me at least it will cost more to repair than just replacing the engine so I decided to see what I can do on my own
I just bought a Chevy Impala for $100. It's got a rod knocking. I'm going to scrap it and make some $. I'm not doing all that to it that's for sure. I don't have $2,000 for a crankshaft
Excellent video explaining engine knock in the big end. I've looked for a video for a long time and your video really explains everything I wanted to know the best! Thank you!
Thank you very much! Appreciate the comment!
One of the best explanation I have watched regarding knocking engine, thank you for sharing your knowledge
You are welcome! Thank you for the great feedback!
You have given a wonderful explaination. I have taken sand paper and a boot string and cleaned cranks and polished cranks with the engine still in the car. I have used standard sized bearings both rod and main and repaired engines still running to this day. The main thing is when you hear a rod knocking. TURN IT OFF, Do not start again until you replace the bearings and it can usually be saved. If you run it too long then the crank will need turned with oversized bearings or replaced all together. Your video is great and you did a wonderful job. But it's not always horrible. If you don;t run it too long once you hear the spun bearing. KEEP GOOD CLEAN OIL IN THE CAR! That is the deal.
Great write up and appreciate the comment Thank you as well!
My engine has rod knock and probably has about a couple mins ran on it like that, how do I know when I drop everything if the bearing has become oversized?
Also what kind of sandpaper grit did u take to the crankshaft?
My experience with small engines (anything from 4hp single cylinder Briggs to 25hp V-Twin kawasaki) is that once internal issues such as these develop it is usually (probably 90% of the time) cheaper to replace the engine itself, unfortunately there's no way to know without taking the bad one apart but doing that also incurs labor hence cost. You want to save money, replace the engine itself boils it down to a specific figure, tearing the bad one apart involves variable costs that could very well run higher than just replacing it.
Its different in automotive, but I find it's almost always cheaper to rebuild than replace. The more expensive the vehicle the more expensive the new engine will cost. Parts on the other hand don't rise as fast as well as the labor. Also depends if you're talking NEW or good used engines. Botton line for us at the shop is New is the most expensive followed by used then rebuilt which in turn is like new therefore the best and cheapest option for most customers.
Video explains it in detail and cuts to the chase. Thank you for a very good video!!
Glad you enjoyed it! Appreciate the comment
This started for me tonight when I got on my bike and took off to go to work. Thank you. Definitely helped me understand what I'm probably up against *and* providing some information on what to look for, both with the bike itself and any parts I may(... Will.... She's my baby...) buy to replace the ones in the bike.
Sure no problem, good luck!
Thanks for the video! I'm about to get into mine... Lost all the oil while driving and it seized.. Guess I gotta pull it apart and check the top and bottom end, hey? Not to mention find where the leak was and hope it isn't a cracked block... I'm just a weekend warrior... This'll be the biggest job I've done. 😵💫 So thanks for all the tips!! At least having UA-cam and forums is way better than just the Haynes like back in the day, lol.
That’s why we’re here! And good luck!
How’d it go?
An oil pressure gauge is very important because you'll notice low oil pressure time before you break the engine (normal use of the car). I think even that's why the old Benz are so reliable...
Absolutely, I say that all the time. There are so many vehicles that have no oil gauge or even coolant gauges and also no oil dip sticks etc.
That's all good and well - but on most new cars (and by new I mean newer than the past 20 years) the gauge is 'fake' just like the temp gauge is 'fake'. It will sit conviently dead centre to look pretty until there as an issue, then all of a sudden skyrocket (in the case of temp) or drop (in the case of oil). If you mean the purchase of an aftermarket properly fitted one I couldn't agree more.
The gauges are not fake, when it goes out of normal range you are supposed to stop driving the vehicle until you or a mechanic can fix the problem. Most just keep driving and see what happens.
@@motorcarnut Fair point. I suppose I should have said 'not in realtime' - as in they don't fluctuate until there is a problem; ie on my old TJ Jeep the oil pressure gauge will fluctuate and show exactly what the pressure is at any given time. On my newer Grand it just sits there dead centre.
Yep you are meant to stop driving as soon as it's noticed - but I think people are more likely to notice a slow increase or decrease because they have time to recognise it - the way most of the new gauges work unless you are constantly scanning the dash it's easier to miss the sudden uptick or drop.
Yep!
Just happened to my mx5 nc, bought the car for piss cheap as my first car and im taking it upon myself to fix it with 0 mechanical experience 😂 if im gona scrap it anyway i might aswell learn a few things
Great explanation of what just happened to my Suburban. Ouch. Super helpful.
Thank you! Sorry about your situation though.
This happened to my Yukon Denali 2004 I’m gonna rebuild the engine with gen 4 rods and pistons new crankshaft and everything an honestly I don’t care if it broke 😂😂imma rebuild it an race an have fun thank you for your video I just need some context keep making videos bro thank you😊
Thank you! And good luck! Keep me posted on outcome!
The accent got me tapping in I'm learning more here than any where else
Thank you! Really appreciated!
Great video. I normally just rebuild the entire thing better to be safe then sorry and also get everything balanced with the Crankshaft.
Thank you! Very true I do too.
Thanks!
Thank you very much for your support!
Awesome Explanation... Love from India❤Bro
Thank you! Appreciate that India!!
Great explanation. Thank you for the detail. Always good to know more about your engine
Thanks for watching! And appreciate the comment!
Yae men this is a very good explained video I had ever seen thanks and God bless you.even my English is my second language I kind got everything 👍
That’s great! Thank you for the kind feedback!
Thanks! I learned something new tonight. Excellent explanation!!
Appreciate that! Thank you
do you have similar video on piston slap? my 2013 Hyundai is starting to do it.
Yes:
ua-cam.com/video/IRtl3l1kCl0/v-deo.html
Excellent video, but I kept wondering why do you keep on placing the rod on the wrong position on the crank, where it does not belong (to the center not moving part)?
Thank you!, Yes, this video is explaining the rod knock noise and not a rebuild video.I was just showing how the noise is created and used the main journal on the crankshaft as an example.
Excellent video describing the revered spun rod bearing issue common in Kia's and Hyundai's. Unfortunately, I am in the same boat but it happened to a car I shipped overseas as a gift to my Mom. After paying all that HIGH import duty I am done with Hyundai's for good.
Working on locating a replacement engine for the 2016 Santa Fe 3.3 v6 engine. Would you or anyone recommend a used engine or a rebuilt engine (any recommendation?).
Sorry to hear that, so unfortunate. I would try a get an engine that was rebuilt already. Any salvage engine would be a ticking time bomb.
My bearing is fused to the shaft. Im gonna be sanding it to try to remove the bearing and polish up the shaft.
Not recommended
"... these BMW's have a bad design" Talk about an under statement. They have a bunch of bad designs and planned 5 year obsolescence. LIMAO!!!
They are great cars but most of the time people abuse them
Great conent keep it up brotha. From a fellow mechanic 💪
Thank you bro, very much appreciated!
This is The BEST video I found on this issue. Most videos show people sanding down the rod journal and reaplcing the bearing, but they don't tell you that it is a band-aid fix and doesn't last😂. This is the correct way to do the job. Buy a new crank , new bearings, and a new rod or rods .
Do this causes the car to wanna shut down the power every 5-10 seconds?
No, it would shut down and never start again.
@@motorcarnut oh okay cause it happens to start like it wanna give power but it usually starts I’m not sure I don’t really know about cars
You probably have an ignition, vacuum or fuel problem. I don't think its too bad like an engine knock.
What does it mean when someone says the “rod is spun”? I’m looking at buying a truck where this is the issue and trying to determine if it’s worth the price at the discount it’s being offered. Thanks for this visual! This was a great video!
Thank you! It means the engine has to be rebuilt or replaced. Spun bearing is because engine suffered low or no engine oil so it’s a big job if you’re not mechanically inclined.
I have a 2007 Chevy Trailblazer, IL6 with knocking, sounds like a rod but maybe its the bearing, it was low on oil and started knocking
Running low on oil is usually is never a good outcome
Excellent video, I have a 2012 Ford F250 I just started getting a knocking sound coming from the inside of the oil pan I'm thinking it's a rod bearing any idea what it could be.
I was thinking of just pulling the oil pan and charging the bearing that way.
If you could access all of them and the crank is not scored then yes and you’ll know right away if it’s a rod knock.
Just happened on my infinity vr30ddtt redsport it’s at the dealer right now and I have warranty so hopefully since all my levels (coolant and oil) were topped off and maintenance records are good that I won’t be put at fault for the knock….. I have coolant coming out of my exhaust, milky oil cap… bad head gasket is the suspect of the knocking I’m assuming? Any other thoughts
Sounds right to me. Diluted oil blew the rod bearings
So did they accept responsibility for the knock sound
Very good presentation and explanation. Thanks. GB
No problem
The problem that results from this wear is that the shavings that are produced mix with the oil and are absorbed by the oil pump, whose internal parts are metallic and must be completely smooth for good performance. These shavings scratch and wear these parts, causing a drop in pressure in the system and oil starvation in the engine.
Correct, and low oil level is the number one cause of engine failure.
Real Good video! very informational for anyone attempting to lift the engine, remove the oil pan and then the FUN BEGINS! dont forget the plastic gauge Or least MIC the Crank and rod journals! with the correct torque specifications. STUDY STUDY and STUDY as much as you can before attempting this type of work AND YOU WILL HAVE SUCCESSES//ACCOMPLISHMENTS many many times thru the years! in the name of LORD JESUS AMEN
Thank you very much! Appreciate your knowledge as well, Amen as well!
Very nice video friend. Thanks! My 2004 HEMI Ram started a few months ago. 64,000 miles. Bought it new and have tried to take care of it. Wish I had the set up I’d do it myself but it’s probably done for.
Thank you! And sorry to hear that
i once rinse air filter dry it out but not completely (2016 elantra) started the engine it worked for seconds and stall since then engine is working okay but there is always weird new noise sound like piston slap maybe rod bent a bit cause water is not compressible? and once engine warm up after 5 minutes its gone maybe rings or sleeve expand or something but it’s diffidently not spun rod bearing or cam ticking its intermittent but always there i just dont get it i once suspected maybe loose intake runner flap what would you suspect if you put a barely wet air filter? i really dry it with air gun before i put it back
I doubt the wet air filter caused that noise. If you can port the noise I can give a listen.
What would be an average price expected to have this done conplete rebuild to a 2007 trailblezer 4.2?
It can vary a great deal from what exactly is replaced and who does the work.
Thank Pro !
I can call you a teacher
You lesson Explain very clearly !
As I think the knock sound , might be due to the oil not supply , reason is neck somewhere ?😊
Thank you for the comment! Appreciated!
Yes lack of oil flow or low oil or low oil pressure are the reasons for engine knock
Great! I just did my bearings, metal in the oil, found a spun bearing, but still have the knock. What gives carnutguy?
You can’t just replace the bearings, the crankshaft journals and connecting rods have to be measured and or replaced if out of spec or scored.
Great video Man! QUESTION for you- 1964 Olds 88 with a 394- it leaked bad when I bought it so I pulled the engine and replaced the gaskets- all the gaskets, except the heads. I was told the heads were done but the exhaust was so bad I didn't really drive the car, just towed it home and pulled the engine. Rebuilt the carb, the starter, new power steering pump.. everything. Back in the car now, it sounds great at start up but after maybe 10 minutes, it starts to knock. I suspected this might happen- so, can I do this myself, in my garage or do I need a machine shop? Can it be done without a machine shop? I know a guy- but he's expensive and really busy. What do you think? I'd value your feedback on this...
Thank you! Appreciated. So since you know how to pull the engine I’d say yes! If it’s knocking changes are the crankshaft and at least one connecting rod will have to be replaced. Along with the rod and main bearings. Now depending on how much damage there is you may get lucky and the crankshaft is fine and can just be polished up ( I have a video on that) but no machine shop needed. You’re sure it’s a rod knock and not something in the valve train?
I have a 2013 S550 that has had a knocking noise for the last 2 years. The car runs like new the gas mileage is excellent power is normal and I do only highway driving rarely in the city. The dealer says drive the car it’s not worth it to repair. There is no metal in the oil which I change every 5-6000 miles even though Mercedes recommends every 12000 miles. Do you think that my problem is what you are describing . By the way I have never had the check engine light go on.
Yours can be ignition ping (knocking) if you’re not using premium fuel or maybe a piston slap. If it were a rod knock it wouldn’t last very long at all.
Yes it is worth R & R the rod BUSHINGS and lower main BUSHINGS>>>>>if they did not score the crankshaft, It is a TIME CONSUMING project BUTT is well worth the time and parts. ONE item i do recommend doing since the bottom end is opened up REPLACE the oil pump. Replace Oil and filter and run the engine 1500 - 2000RPM for 45 mins to 1hr. AND stay ohoff the hard throttle for at least 2000miles stay under 3000RPM if it all possible
You have some great advice in there, thank you for sharing!
I have a problem on my Mercedes e220 cdi and the guy from grinding machine told me that the crankshaft is gone and it can’t be repaired
Do you recommend to be replaced with genuine one or it’s ok with aftermarket one?
Thanks
That's a great question. It depends on a couple of things, like is the car worth the extra money? is the cost between the OEM and aftermarket that much difference in price? Etc. If you really want to keep the car i'd go for orig. part however you can try to find online a remanufactured OEM crank or a used OEM good one on ebay and still save some money.
Well explained
Thank you for the feedback! Appreciated!
If this has happened is it considered a blown engine? Can the vehicle be driven after this happens?
No it can’t be driven and yes it is considered blown but can be rebuilt or replaced.
Can running with low coolant cause this ?
Not really, if the vehicle overheated bad then possibly but it’s usually a oil starvation issue
Can a crankshaft cause no compression in one cylinder?
Yes, if the connecting rod is damaged in a way that the piston isn’t moving. I’ve had that happen many times with no knocking .
@Motorcarnut, how can I fix this? Do I need to tear down the engine or there is easier way
@alvarozavala7924 Yes, has to be rebuilt or replaced. But I would first make sure this was the problem first because it’s pretty rare.
@Motorcarnut the problem is I had this engine rebuild a year ago, then a month ago, the engine started to misfire I took it to my mechanic that did the work and told me it has a no compression in cylinder 5 and knocking sound coming from the engine. They didn't want to rebuild the engine again and told me to get it replaced. But right now, I can't afford to get a used or new one right now. So I'm looking for some help and advice on what should I do.
And yes, it's the crankshaft bearing that makes that noise
Super thanks!
Super thanks is a donation but thank you!
Have you done N55’s?
Mine has not seized yet and u dont even hear the knock but i have shavings in my oil filter how much would that run me?
Essentially the same engine as the N20. Engine has to be rebuilt or replaced. Prices vary too much to give a quote
I thought an engine knock could be from a slightly bend piston arm . Got my car flooded was able to take water out and restarted but with a knocking sound from engine 😢
You hydro locked the engine when it got flooded. And yes probably bent the connecting rod.
perhaps share insights on replacing bearings yourself.....engine in vehicle (if not too worn,damaged). Some very helpful videos on this using sandpaper and shoelace to polish
Problem with that is it will never last and I don't recommend that type of repair. Because things have to be precisely measured and you have to ask yourself why did it happen in the first place?
I change my own oil on my mustang but i take my kia to Valvoline.....got an oil change 3 weeks ago and last night my car started knocking so i got looking and there was no oil at all in the engine and the oil filter itself was only 3 full turns from coming off....
Take it back asap to Valvoline, you got a good law suit. Jiffy lube is always getting sued as well.
@@motorcarnut a mechanic just left from looking at it,they're going to tow it and start an investigation but he said since I put more oil in the engine and tightend the filter that its not going to work in my favor but im not going to leave a heated engine with no oil and not going to put oil in it without retightening the filter but there is oil every where around the filter
@badbatch9048 You should never of touched it because now they have an excuse but be persistent because they were at fault! Good luck
@@motorcarnut they done fucked me,they towed it in and performed an oil change and changed the filter hidden behind the words inspection and investigation
@badbatch9048 Get advice from attorney
Look like it's frequently at same berings rod issues... any Ideal why this particular bering ?
It does vary from 1 to 4. Oil bearing clearances are at 1000 of an inch so any disruption will cause a bearing to seize up. Mostly do to neglected oil changes or leaks not caught in time.
0
Mechanic is saying I need a new engine is that true or is it fixable?
Depends on a lot of factors. It will require a rebuild or replacement engine, if the car is worth it for you then maybe that’s the way to go.
Can you give me estimation the price for fixed engine wv Routan 2010 I have Siemens problem
If can range dramatically on exactly what’s wrong with the engine, if you will put a used one in or rebuild the one you have. Either way can cost a couple thousand dollars easy.
yep this just happened to my car ..scrapping it for 300 bucks
Sorry to hear that.
Same thing I just bought it and put a bunch of money in it such a shame
@@nicodaniels130 if you jack your car up and drian the oil out and remove the oil pan under the engine some cars you can access the pistons rods and the crank shaft right there and you can change them out from underneath with out removing the whole engine that is if its just the rod bearings, if there is piston problem or or a piston rod problem then yeah you might have to take the engine out, but then again some cars you can get away with removing just the engine head and accessing tbe pistons and rods while its the rest of the engine is still mounted in your vehicle
Oh yeah, same deal here, but I got mine for $500
Loser
Any way I can email a video of my old 46 caddy to see if it is in fact a rod knock? Trying to decipher the problem on my old car, great video and thanks for the info
Just post on your channel and let me know
@@motorcarnutmind checking my recent short for this same question? Pretty sure it’s a rod knock and will take it in regardless but not sure if it’ll be worth it 😢 hopefully it’s an affordable fix
Good luck
Hi, Mechanic opened up the entire engine and found the ONE Rod cap was fitted upside down which damaged that one conrod groove and the one big end bearing that went on that conrod.
He said in order to fix up that knocking noise, we must get:
●1 conrod
●Polish crankshaft (crankshaft was not damaged)
●Change all big end bearings since it comes in a set when bought.
(My argument was why change all big end bearings when just the one bearing was damaged because of the upside down rod CAP?
What's the need to polish crankshaft if it wasn't damaged? Or it's fine if the engineer polishes it?
I'm just worried why polish, what if it weakens the crankshaft.
Thanks
Is he right to change all the bearings?
His going to put the same standard size bearings because his not cutting the crank (only polishing crank) no need for undersized bearings. Is he correct?
If metal filings were not circulated in the engine and scored the other bearings then just replace that rod and rod bearings for that cylinder and just polish that one journal. If you’re on a budget. No polishing the crank will not weaken it. The way he wants to do it is the proper way but will cost more money and I would do it that way as well. But as stated, if your tight for money the other way will work.
Thanks.
I am on a tight budget but the guy explained to me that he doesn't want to open up the engine again, he promised that if he fixes it his way now then i will not have issues again.
BEARINGS come in a set so even if i change bearings for one rod i will still have to pay for the entire set of bearings when bought, hope you understand what im saying.
Really disappointed that they don't sell lose rod bearings for one cylinder. Have to buy for all cylinders.
I can find a lose rod? Don't want to buy 4 rods otherwise ill be in big debt.
Struggling to find parts though for L15z engine. Only the honda dealer has got stock in south Africa. Dealers are very pricey.
Do you have instagram to where I can send you a video of my car just to make sure it’s a rod knock b4 I get it fixed, I had a mechanic tell me today the catalytic converter causing the noise but I don’t think it’s that
Just post it on your UA-cam channel and I’ll give a listen
Great information bro.
Thanks for watching, appreciate the comment!
Thank you.
Sure! No problem!
Great video. Man; are you anywhere close to Memphis TN? Im going through this right now.
Thank you! Sorry, No NY as of now
@@motorcarnut copy. I have a 2012 Shelby GT500 & not trying to get rid of it because of this problem. Started knocking 3 weeks ago.
I wouldn’t either, worth fixing if it’s a clear car. Btw love Tennessee!!!
Was about to say does he sound like he’s from Tennessee to you? 😂
How’re those NY taxes treating you?
We’re moving, that’s how lol
I have a lower bearing failure on my 2015 Subaru wrx. My Mechanic quoted me 8,200, does that sounds reasonable because that sounded high to me?
You can buy a brand new engine for that price. Shop around. $4000 max depending whats damaged.
Thanks for a great video. Can the crank shaft be replaced without removing the engine from the vehicle?
Thank you and unfortunately not.
hi can we have knock due to piston slap and are bearing failure and piston slap related to each other ? thanks
No bearing rod knock is not the same or related to piston slap. However both can be caused by oil starvation.
@@motorcarnut I have my car at dealership for warranty claim but they are refusing to replace engine claiming the noise is because of piston wear and not due to bearing wear knock , they use some type of tool to test it without opening engine and when I ask them that sound just started to come as soon as I get check engine light and there was no oil leak/burning before that they cant explain that and sys that we can see that cylinder walls are scraped , its a kia soul with engines under extended warranty due to rod bearing wear
@@motorcarnut its getting code P1326 but they are refusing to accept its due to bearing wear without opening engine and physically inspect it
If they did not find your oil level low, they must fix it as it is directly caused by oil starvation especially with the code P1326.
That tool they used was a bore scope. Go to another dealership if possible or threaten to sue.
@@motorcarnut oil level was perfectly correct and car was not burning/leaking any oil , I confirm it before last 2 oil changes that oil level was ok before oil change (so no burning or leaking), there is already a class action law suite against them in Canada due to this issue but they are shamelessly not resolving it and lingering on, secondly refusal of engine change is coming from kia corporate as the service manger on kia dealership even show me their email showing that he requested a goodwill replacement of engine which they also deny , do you think taking it to another dealership can change bearing clearance test results or this this a good idea to talk to original dealership where this car was service throughout , the issue is that dealership is around 500KM from where i am currently living
Does engine have to be rebored? And send to machine shop?
Depends on how much cylinder wear you have but most times no.
I did experience the cranking sound in my engine Fiat Palio 1.2 and suddenly the car stops itself and after some few minutes I tried to start again and the sound was heavy so I opened the sump found metals like mud in the tray so can I fixed it without taking out head cylinder?
Not the proper way ,no
1996 Corvette LT1. The engine is quiet when cold (High oil pressure) and starts making a consistent Tapping noise when it gets hot. (Low oil pressure.)
It sounds like it is coming from the top, right rear. The Corvette mechanic said he heard it from above more than from below.
4 new lifters did nothing. When he unplugged the spark wire, the sound changed (I don't know if it got louder or quieter or if the rhythm changed.) which he said sounded like it was a wrist pin, not a bearing. I have heard, louder would be a wrist pin, quieter would be the bearing.
What do you think? Can the car be driven if it is the wrist pin?
No, The reason you don't hear it as much when spark plug is disconnected is because now that cylinder is not creating combustion so I think that's why the mechanic said wrist pin but could also be a bearing, sound travels.
What does the cost of this or piston slap issue in the subaru outback 2008 engines
?
Thanks man, coming from a background around computers this helped it make sense.
Sure, no problem! Thanks for the feedback!
So there’s no way to fix this? My car started doing this a couple days ago and idk what to do, I’m still in school and work part time so I don’t make much. But I don’t have a way to get to work or school now
It first started the other day after I went over some speed bumps. I’m so stressed about this
Are you sure it’s an engine knock? Going over some bumps won’t do that?
@@Shawn_mccallisteri know this is an older post, but what kind of engine do you have? 4 cylinder, 6 or 8?
@@motorcarnutmaybe the bearing was ready to spin and the bump was enough shock to loosen it?
I swear to god that bostonian accent gives me such vibes. It's like playing max payne or something and just listening to one of the gangsters explaining to his buddy, in detail, how a car engine works and why his ride is irreversably screwed lmao
All joking aside though, this vid and your channel in general is great and informative but I just had to mention the accent
Thank You! Actually i'm not from Boston, lol
My crankshaf can turn by hand easily at a steady pace, but it will get harder to turn when it rotates to a certain point but when that hard point is passed it get easy again until it comes back around to that spot,
Oh and all the pistons and rods are all put together and attached, but why is it doing this?
It’s normal, you’re feeling the compression when turning it over
@@motorcarnut oh okay thanks, just wanted to be sure it wasn't anything bad
@RookitMaster no problem!
I dont understand the section where you talk about when you can reuse a piston and when you can not reuse a piston because i see on both sides like the lines. Tying to learn more about weared parts
If the pistons lose some of the black coating but still have those lines thought-out the both sides of the pistons they will be fine to reuse. If any lines are gone the piston should be replaced.
Subscribed, ty for teaching us
Thanks for the sub! You bet!
Yep. Mine just started knocking yesterday. Sucks. New vehicle time. Engine has 175000 on it.
Sorry to hear that.
My car in like stops after 3rd gear. Is that bad?
Yes, have to take to local mechanic
Thanks you brotha , great info
No problem 👍 Thank you for the feedback!
Just happened to mine. Would you recommend rebuilding or buying a used one. Rebuiding is cheaper but concerns that metal fragments would have damaged the rest of the engine.
If the engine ran fine before I would rebuild what you have and clean up any metal or replace oil pump too.
@Motorcarnut I bought it a week ago and the engine started knocking. Metal found in the oil filter. Basically got scammed.
Don't really know the history of the engine. Still think rebuild or used engine?
Thanks mate
@waynehick I would but maybe you’re better off if you find one that you can hear running then buy that one a put it in yours.
Start by removing the girdle and pulling caps off. Replacing bearings is the simplest way to fix it. However, that metal on metal contact, depending on how bad the bearing is, can scar and scratch the crank. If the crank is scarred too much then you'll need a new crank otherwise it'll just end up getting rod knock again sooner rather than later
I had engine knock did everything you said in the video even replace starter and diesel fuel filter we struggled starting the bakkie and the engine knock again and damaged the bearing what was the reason
Even doing this DYI if the vehicle is not worth at least $20k+ the cost of the parts can easily exceed the value of the vehicle and nOT pay todo i. Trade it in for a a better running pre-owned vehicle.
Well many factors come into play here. If I am doing my own vehicle, I'd definitely rebuild it then I have a new engine that's more reliable then someones pre owned vehicle and way cheaper and more reliable.
yeah my 05 ford didn’t show me oil pressure or anything so 😐lessons learned now a girl needs to learn how things work because i have no useful men in life, mechanic wouldn’t even take my warranty because apparently the vehicle is modified but i bought it as is and the dealership wanted me to get the warranty too. So i’m out 3k and have a truck that’s knocking
That is a very unfortunate situation! Sorry to hear that. Try getting a second opinion maybe it is something else or can give you a better price?
Find a useful man and these problems won’t arise. But don’t forget there is such a thing as a useful woman too, despite the teachings of the woke religion.
This guys definitely a Celtics fan lmao
But good video n information thank you homie
No problem!
Very well explained.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you!
@@motorcarnut can you replace the journal rod bearings without splitting the case? I am doing just a top end, cylinders and pistons: THANKS
Depends on what type of engine. Some have two part oil pan and then a main bearing bridge that may block some of the journals. If you take the pan down and see all bearing journals then yes you can
Can you short cut , just replace bearing that’s got the slap, throw it back together,, how long would that last?? As brought a Rangerover ,, and a couple of months later it got this problem,
Depends if the crankshaft got damaged, if not it may last with new bearings
Hi, would you recommend using 10w40 or stay with 5w30 engine oil after rebuilding an engine which suffered a bearing knock?
Which one would be best to use to make sure we don't suffer a bearing knock in future.
10w40 is a bit thicker than 5w30.
Thanks
You can use the 10w40 with no issues
@@motorcarnutThanks for the quick response. Will use 10w40
Are rod bearings easy to replace?
Mechanic cannot make a mistake when replacing rod bearings?
Most of the times the engine has to come out of the vehicle to replace them and usually it destroys the crank journals too so it's a big job and absolutely a mechanic can make mistakes and not measure oil bearing clearances etc.properly.
@@motorcarnut what do you mean by oil bearing clearance mistake
@muhammadtai4972 oil bearing clearances have to be checked for proper clearance, if too big or too small will cause crankshaft damage
@@motorcarnut Even if the mechanic is putting new standard size rod bearings?
Im pretty sure the mechanic knows about this things....im just stressing too much for nothing
@muhammadtai4972 you probably are
Bying parts directly from BMW is expensive, where other place can we buy BMW engine parts ? Specifically this BMW N20 engine ?
You can fine them online.
superthanks
My car was waterlogged. This happened?
Hydro locked probably
White smoke and engine shaking ..noise from engine
Engine knock then
Yes ..knock sound from engine
New engine dont mess wit it wont last.
Not true at all. The engine that you are rebuilding was once new too and look what happened? If done right will last just as long as a new engine and besides most people can't afford brand new engine or if its even worth it.
"Thin film of oil" "viscosity" that's how i know you're a great mechanic/engineer ❤
Thank you! Really appreciate the your feedback!
Also would be cheaper to relace the entire egine and faster than replacing the Crank, etc.
It's not cheaper if you did it yourself. But, yes faster.
Assuming a used engine much cheaper
@@motorcarnut
@@SteveInterdonatobetter rebuild it back
replenish your working surface particle board is a terrible choice.
You’re so right, it’s one of many. I usually just take photos and videos on this one.
Short answer dont fix it if the damage is to bad or if there is any at all
Doesn't make sense what you said. Most of the times it's worth fixing especially if you are doing the work yourself.
@@motorcarnut yeah im saying dont go pay to get it fixed if its damaged to bad just buy a new motor
@FINDROBLOX damaged beyond repair is rare except for a rod threw the block
@Motorcarnut oh idk sorry I just had this happen to me and I've check valve covers and tomorrow imma check piston bearings I was just told for me at least it will cost more to repair than just replacing the engine so I decided to see what I can do on my own
Yes that’s the best and cheapest option.
I just bought a Chevy Impala for $100. It's got a rod knocking. I'm going to scrap it and make some $. I'm not doing all that to it that's for sure. I don't have $2,000 for a crankshaft
Yes doesn’t seem that vehicle would be worth it if the condition is poor
Fuck I think this just happened to my car hahaha nice new year gift for me
Sorry to hear that
Same thing happened to my 370z yesterday smh
Same happened to me Sunday
Let someone hold the camera for you so both of your hands are free to demonstrate. GB
Sometimes I make. Videos when I’m alone
👍
Thank you!
That has to be an n54 lol
Close, N20
❤
Thank you
You guys use too light of engine oil duh! :(
That's not the issue
That is the issue, that causes the problems duh!
THIS IS
ua-cam.com/video/RALT5SCuTCk/v-deo.html
Usually....people send their car to the junkyard.... sad face
I’m trying to help people avoid that.