Thanks for an insightful/good video. I was able to fix the heating element as one of the ceramic pieces that holds the coil had become dislodged allowing the coil to ground out. One of the key points in your video is that the dryer should not heat up if its in "Air Fluff" mode, so when it did I immediately went to the coil heating element and saw the issue. You saved me a tech visit and I did not have to buy any parts! Thanks again
Thanks got one of these gifted to me because it kept overheating their clothes. Fixing it was easy with this video. Much appreciated and element ordered through link have a good day
I’m also service a center I do factory service for speed queen and Electrolux I used to do warranty for whirlpool but they went to factory service in my area 10 yrs ago , I’ve been at this 45 yrs things have really changed I only recently started doing the Korean products your vids are always well done and helpful
Thank you, thank you! I had been pulling my hair out replacing the thermostat and thermistor trying to get my dryer to stop overheating. The problem was exactly as this video shows. Heating element had broken and the severed end was touching the heater casing.
I have this dryer model - but gas (not electric). Dryer will run fine without heat but with heat it will run about 3-5 minutes and shut down - and it definitely seems hot inside. Even does it with the dryer vent disconnected and after completely cleaning out all accumulated lent in the lint filter housing. Could there be a lint blockage further in or does it sound like a sensor that regulates the gas/flame has gone bad? Any advice/types appreciated.
I am about to apply to warranty companies and was going to use my wifes dark green mini van with magnetic signs I have already made up but was concerned it wasn't a white van and making the wrong impression. Have everything else I need, including business shirts, but was concerned about first impressions. Did you start with a perfect vehicle, or do you have an opinion on this?
I started in a 1997 chevy blazer. It was rough. From there to a 2011 terrain which was my wifes car. Now I have a 2011 Chevy silverado. It may matter to some what you drive but most do not care. As long as you can help them and don't break their bank account it wont matter. Vans are great, wish I had one haha. That will help you out with inventory if you are the only one driving it. good luck in your endevours!
Thank You for the great answers! When you used warranty companies, was it customary to have them send you parts or did you buy parts and wait for the reimbursement from them to put your money back. And what is your opinion if I stayed at my 9 to 5 for a while until ready to quit and did one job a day from warranty companies, do you know if they would get upset and drop me if I don't do all the jobs they want me to do after joining them?
You're very welcome! They usually want you to take care of everything, ordering the parts and such. Make sure you have a wholesale account at your local part supplier. Cheaper parts that you can sale at retail. I worked on my business as a side business for 2 years before I went full time. Only way to do it and be able to pay bills. It wasn't an easy decision either. How it happened for me; I was working my 9-5 and they pissed me off. Whether it was giving me too much work to do or sending me on a 4 hr drive day with 8 calls to do or what not. I don't remember which one it was lol.. Working for someone else can piss you off daily almost. The point is i got mad and quit and I built up that customer base for 2 years and ended up being okay. I get a lot of referrals from the part stores as well. I do good work and have good reviews on google and that's not something you can build in a month. A good indicator you are ready to quit is if your phone is ringing daily and if people don't want to wait on you to get there. 3-4 day wait or so. BTW I am still in my first year. My 1 year of going full time is in May. Best decision I have made professionally though. It was a good year for us.
I had continuity, but forgot to check for short to ground. The other 2 thermistors next to element had continuity. Thermostat in duct had good continuity, and the thermistor there had 9.8 k ohm vs spec 10kohm. Close enought? Dry starts and runs hot for a long time...but eventually stops with HE code. Everythingn is hot. So maybe PCB, or go check element again?
Thank you for your help he said there wasn’t link for the parts I didn’t see it I was wondering if you could resend them to me the parts for the whole element package
Just replaced everything on my Samsung even the one on the exhaust vent, and my dry is still getting to hot and shutting off, Bad parts mayb? Exact same dryer, I did why you did on heating element, replaced whole thing, and the thermo on the exhaust housing. Any ideas My venting is straight shot outside the house, great air flow
No, Although I charge everyone a service charge plus labor. Typically the total labor is $135 (includes service charge) plus whatever I make off of the part. That is good enough for me. I am not the cheapest nor the most expensive. I give myself 2 hours per call so if the part I need is local I have time to go get it. First Call Completes are key to success.
Unfortunately we can only submit and get paid ...1... Time when doing warranty work (well after 90days we can submit again but I mean it's 90days 🤔) the problem is MOST calls require 2 trips to complete (alot of control boards fail an too many variations to keep ALL of them on the van) Soooo it's almost always a 2 trip job and god forbid we missed something the 1st trip OR you have some new issues that arise when we come back to put the 1st part in ...now it's a 3 trip job...AND still only can submit 1 time for that particular model/serial (after 90 says we can submit again well that's how it works with us anyway) so yeaaaaa warranty work is NOT the way to make huge profit but it's guaranteed work so basically it's quantity over quality when it comes to accepting warranty work..(sorry for the super long comment)
How long do you warranty the job? I’ve had issues with Amazon replacement parts so I’m trying to stick to oem before I figure out what are decent replacement parts
Ive got an fe error code on my samsung dryer and it seems like it is overheating runs for about 25 minutes then gets real hot and shuts down and then panel will not light up till it cools down again. Have tested element and it has not grounded to the housing do you have any insight by chance?
So I have a problem and I'm completely ignorant with appliances. My samsung dryer initially wasnt heating so I check it was the heating element. I ordered the kit with the fuses and the heating coil. I tested every fuse they tested good swapped the coil and the fuses so I didn't have to go back in it again. Now I'm getting a HE code (over heating) and only time when it doesn't over heat is if I take the whole front panel off. Also would like to add that I had a professional come out to clean the ventilation system to make sure there wasn't any clogging going on and I also just put the old fuses back in (they tested good) and still the same HE error code. Can you please advise me on how to fix this?
Mine is getting hot and stops with HE code. My element had continuity, but I forgot to check for short to ground. From my research you need to check resistance on thermistor and thermostat in ducting by blower. And also resistance on the 2 thermistors by heating element. If they are all good, then main PCB needs to be replaced. (Another video showed that. But it threw HE code in like 2 seconds and stops). Mine runs for a long time. Any actually does heat too much.
I tried doing just the element 1 time never again I slipped sliding the element into the housing ..needed up at the medimerge getting stitches from now only the whole assy
I have 2 different Samsung models, one a 2019 model and the other a 2021 model. I have gone through 4 heating elements in under 3 years. Are Samsung dryers known for heating element issues? I have checked the ventilation tube and its clean and as straight as possible and I have replaced all the other parts connected within the heating element tube. Im scared to use high heat becasue Im tired of changing elements. What could cause this?
I have a question, I ordered one of these heating elements, complete with the thermostats, and when I took it out of the box, I did a continuity test, and my meter didnt beep when touching the prongs of the heating element. It did beep for the thermostats. So do I have a defective heating element right from the start?? I purchased the one you have a link to, because I had issues with another brand, so I wanted to get a OEM Samsung one. So can you tell me if this one is defective if the meter didnt beep when I touched the prongs for the heating element??
depends on what your meter resistance continuity is set to. Do and ohm reading and see if it is somewhere around 15ohm. if it say OL than yes you have a bad element out of the box. My meter doesnt beep above 30 ohms or soemthing like that. 30 ohms will work too, if the element reads 30 i would still use it. I hate to say it but i get bad "new" parts out of the box all the time and it drives me nuts. You can always finish the install and see if it heats. if it does than your meter is just messing with you.
If my meter is messing with me, it did for 3 different elements. The meter doesnt beep, but it does show a reading. But i was worrying about it not cycling on and off, because the last one I got, which was a different brand, got hot and the outside side of the dryer where the heating element is located, got extremely hot to the touch, literally burning hot
Hi again, so I did a ohms test and it reads an average 9.5 on the element, not the 15 that you suggested. When i have the meter on the continuity setting, the meter averages 9.8 So do you think this element is bad?
Hi, My name is Tony. I hope somebody could help. One day my Samsung (10 years old DV218AEW/XAC) electric dryer stops after 20 secs start-up and hE code appears. I checked and cleaned out the filter. The tube from the filter housing to the back is blocked solid with dog hair, wet lint. I cleaned everything out, blow-dried the vent completely with my garden blower. Still starts and stops after 20 secs. What could be the problem? Thank you so much for your help.
Thank you for taking the time to make the lives of others easy by showing us something you probably had to learn on your own.
Thanks for an insightful/good video. I was able to fix the heating element as one of the ceramic pieces that holds the coil had become dislodged allowing the coil to ground out. One of the key points in your video is that the dryer should not heat up if its in "Air Fluff" mode, so when it did I immediately went to the coil heating element and saw the issue. You saved me a tech visit and I did not have to buy any parts! Thanks again
I also work at an appliance store. Your videos are a god send when it comes to customer repairs, please keep making them!
Got more coming. I am trying to be more consistent when it comes to uploads. I want to upload one a week.
Thanks got one of these gifted to me because it kept overheating their clothes. Fixing it was easy with this video. Much appreciated and element ordered through link have a good day
I’m also service a center I do factory service for speed queen and Electrolux I used to do warranty for whirlpool but they went to factory service in my area 10 yrs ago , I’ve been at this 45 yrs things have really changed I only recently started doing the Korean products your vids are always well done and helpful
Thank you, thank you! I had been pulling my hair out replacing the thermostat and thermistor trying to get my dryer to stop overheating. The problem was exactly as this video shows. Heating element had broken and the severed end was touching the heater casing.
My friend you made an EXCELLENT video, thank you for that.
Video súper excelente, yo aprendí bastante. Muchas gracias
I have this dryer model - but gas (not electric). Dryer will run fine without heat but with heat it will run about 3-5 minutes and shut down - and it definitely seems hot inside. Even does it with the dryer vent disconnected and after completely cleaning out all accumulated lent in the lint filter housing. Could there be a lint blockage further in or does it sound like a sensor that regulates the gas/flame has gone bad? Any advice/types appreciated.
you are an underappreciated professional 👏!
I am about to apply to warranty companies and was going to use my wifes dark green mini van with magnetic signs I have already made up but was concerned it wasn't a white van and making the wrong impression. Have everything else I need, including business shirts, but was concerned about first impressions. Did you start with a perfect vehicle, or do you have an opinion on this?
I started in a 1997 chevy blazer. It was rough. From there to a 2011 terrain which was my wifes car. Now I have a 2011 Chevy silverado. It may matter to some what you drive but most do not care. As long as you can help them and don't break their bank account it wont matter. Vans are great, wish I had one haha. That will help you out with inventory if you are the only one driving it. good luck in your endevours!
Thank You for the great answers! When you used warranty companies, was it customary to have them send you parts or did you buy parts and wait for the reimbursement from them to put your money back. And what is your opinion if I stayed at my 9 to 5 for a while until ready to quit and did one job a day from warranty companies, do you know if they would get upset and drop me if I don't do all the jobs they want me to do after joining them?
You're very welcome! They usually want you to take care of everything, ordering the parts and such. Make sure you have a wholesale account at your local part supplier. Cheaper parts that you can sale at retail.
I worked on my business as a side business for 2 years before I went full time. Only way to do it and be able to pay bills. It wasn't an easy decision either. How it happened for me; I was working my 9-5 and they pissed me off. Whether it was giving me too much work to do or sending me on a 4 hr drive day with 8 calls to do or what not. I don't remember which one it was lol.. Working for someone else can piss you off daily almost. The point is i got mad and quit and I built up that customer base for 2 years and ended up being okay. I get a lot of referrals from the part stores as well. I do good work and have good reviews on google and that's not something you can build in a month.
A good indicator you are ready to quit is if your phone is ringing daily and if people don't want to wait on you to get there. 3-4 day wait or so.
BTW I am still in my first year. My 1 year of going full time is in May. Best decision I have made professionally though. It was a good year for us.
Really appreciate the video. Just fixed my heater and it’s good as a new machine.
I had continuity, but forgot to check for short to ground. The other 2 thermistors next to element had continuity.
Thermostat in duct had good continuity, and the thermistor there had 9.8 k ohm vs spec 10kohm. Close enought?
Dry starts and runs hot for a long time...but eventually stops with HE code. Everythingn is hot.
So maybe PCB, or go check element again?
Man I love your videos. Keep them coming brother.
More to come!
Thank you for your help he said there wasn’t link for the parts I didn’t see it I was wondering if you could resend them to me the parts for the whole element package
Thx a TON for these instructions! ❤️👍
Just replaced everything on my Samsung even the one on the exhaust vent, and my dry is still getting to hot and shutting off,
Bad parts mayb?
Exact same dryer, I did why you did on heating element, replaced whole thing, and the thermo on the exhaust housing.
Any ideas
My venting is straight shot outside the house, great air flow
definitely shorted coil.or bad motor coil
When you have to go back and put the part in later, do you charge another service charge when billing the warranty companies? (2 service call charges)
No, Although I charge everyone a service charge plus labor. Typically the total labor is $135 (includes service charge) plus whatever I make off of the part. That is good enough for me. I am not the cheapest nor the most expensive.
I give myself 2 hours per call so if the part I need is local I have time to go get it. First Call Completes are key to success.
@@BeardedApplianceRepair awesome
Unfortunately we can only submit and get paid ...1... Time when doing warranty work (well after 90days we can submit again but I mean it's 90days 🤔) the problem is MOST calls require 2 trips to complete (alot of control boards fail an too many variations to keep ALL of them on the van) Soooo it's almost always a 2 trip job and god forbid we missed something the 1st trip OR you have some new issues that arise when we come back to put the 1st part in ...now it's a 3 trip job...AND still only can submit 1 time for that particular model/serial (after 90 says we can submit again well that's how it works with us anyway) so yeaaaaa warranty work is NOT the way to make huge profit but it's guaranteed work so basically it's quantity over quality when it comes to accepting warranty work..(sorry for the super long comment)
I actually changed my heating element, fuse and thermostat but now when I run the dryer with Eco Off, it gets way too hot. Any idea what that could be
Explained beautifully
Thanks a lot 😊
Thanks for the great detailed video
How long do you warranty the job? I’ve had issues with Amazon replacement parts so I’m trying to stick to oem before I figure out what are decent replacement parts
90 days for the work and part. OEM parts i warranty for a year. Samsung element are crazy expensive and everyone wants to install the aftermarket one.
Ive got an fe error code on my samsung dryer and it seems like it is overheating runs for about 25 minutes then gets real hot and shuts down and then panel will not light up till it cools down again. Have tested element and it has not grounded to the housing do you have any insight by chance?
So I have a problem and I'm completely ignorant with appliances.
My samsung dryer initially wasnt heating so I check it was the heating element. I ordered the kit with the fuses and the heating coil.
I tested every fuse they tested good swapped the coil and the fuses so I didn't have to go back in it again.
Now I'm getting a HE code (over heating) and only time when it doesn't over heat is if I take the whole front panel off. Also would like to add that I had a professional come out to clean the ventilation system to make sure there wasn't any clogging going on and I also just put the old fuses back in (they tested good) and still the same HE error code. Can you please advise me on how to fix this?
your coil touching metal housing ı guarante you!
What if it’s not shorting off the element housing , but still overheating ?
Mine is getting hot and stops with HE code. My element had continuity, but I forgot to check for short to ground.
From my research you need to check resistance on thermistor and thermostat in ducting by blower. And also resistance on the 2 thermistors by heating element. If they are all good, then main PCB needs to be replaced. (Another video showed that. But it threw HE code in like 2 seconds and stops). Mine runs for a long time. Any actually does heat too much.
I tried doing just the element 1 time never again I slipped sliding the element into the housing ..needed up at the medimerge getting stitches from now only the whole assy
my question is similar to the video. the heat settings don't seem to work. always runs high heat. do you think its a short?
Could be a short in the heater element (easy to diagnose, as shown in the video) or a stuck relay on the control board.
@@davidvanderbyl4015 thanks, yeah I checked it out. Heating element was shorted to the metal body from the factory. All works well now.
I’m new with multimeter. What setting do you put it on to check continuity?
Ohms or signal noise. Touch leads together and you should get all zeroes or tone to test meter for continuity before use.
Thank you!❤️
I have 2 different Samsung models, one a 2019 model and the other a 2021 model. I have gone through 4 heating elements in under 3 years. Are Samsung dryers known for heating element issues? I have checked the ventilation tube and its clean and as straight as possible and I have replaced all the other parts connected within the heating element tube. Im scared to use high heat becasue Im tired of changing elements. What could cause this?
Try an OEM replacement element. They are expensive but should last longer. Refrain from the cheap ones on amazon.
@@BeardedApplianceRepair That’s what I was thinking. Thanks.
I have a question, I ordered one of these heating elements, complete with the thermostats, and when I took it out of the box, I did a continuity test, and my meter didnt beep when touching the prongs of the heating element. It did beep for the thermostats. So do I have a defective heating element right from the start?? I purchased the one you have a link to, because I had issues with another brand, so I wanted to get a OEM Samsung one. So can you tell me if this one is defective if the meter didnt beep when I touched the prongs for the heating element??
depends on what your meter resistance continuity is set to. Do and ohm reading and see if it is somewhere around 15ohm. if it say OL than yes you have a bad element out of the box. My meter doesnt beep above 30 ohms or soemthing like that. 30 ohms will work too, if the element reads 30 i would still use it.
I hate to say it but i get bad "new" parts out of the box all the time and it drives me nuts.
You can always finish the install and see if it heats. if it does than your meter is just messing with you.
If my meter is messing with me, it did for 3 different elements. The meter doesnt beep, but it does show a reading. But i was worrying about it not cycling on and off, because the last one I got, which was a different brand, got hot and the outside side of the dryer where the heating element is located, got extremely hot to the touch, literally burning hot
Hi again, so I did a ohms test and it reads an average 9.5 on the element, not the 15 that you suggested. When i have the meter on the continuity setting, the meter averages 9.8
So do you think this element is bad?
Hi, My name is Tony. I hope somebody could help. One day my Samsung (10 years old DV218AEW/XAC) electric dryer stops after 20 secs start-up and hE code appears. I checked and cleaned out the filter. The tube from the filter housing to the back is blocked solid with dog hair, wet lint. I cleaned everything out, blow-dried the vent completely with my garden blower. Still starts and stops after 20 secs. What could be the problem? Thank you so much for your help.
What about a GAS Dryer??
U rock thank you!
good job
Thank you! Cheers!
i own these same model washer and dryer. The worst appliances ive ever owned.
Just stay away from Samsung altogether ! nothing but trouble ! I had enough from this brand,,very bad reputation !