I'd watched 4 other videos before finding you but yours is the best. Well organized procedure, clearly explained with a clear speaking voice. I wish my Doctor could convey information as well as you did here. Smile. Thanks!
I watched several “how to” videos on overheating whirlpool dryers and yours was absolutely the best. Thanks for the great information, and for including info to order needed parts ! Great job !!
I have a Ge dryer if I run a full cycle on time dryer with no clothes it would go through the whole cycle but when I put clothes in there and put it on time dryer it still run for 5 minutes and cut off everytime .
@@marlawilliams2561 could be a bad motor. The extra weight of the clothes might be just enough to make it over work and cut off. But it’s hard to tell without actually being there so I’m just kind of guessing.
I was thinking the same thing and I replace the motor and all fuse but it still doing the same thing have you ever had a situation were it was the timer.
Thanks ! Was resting while my white shirts where drying on medium 30 minutes and had timer on my fone on also but at 20 minutes. Decided to get up and check my shirts at 15 minutes. Pulled them out of dryer and had to let them go on the floor because they burnt my hands. Try re-washing because they now have polyester burnt smell. Checked duck, checked outside, checked lint grabber, seals door and drum are all good this far. Gonna open it up in and see...
Hi! I watched your other video on the 4 reasons your dryer won't turn on and was able to successfully change out the thermal fuse! It was surprisingly quick and easy and i was so happy to have saved money as i was charged a lot 7 mths ago to have a heating element installed and lint cleaned out. However, before a full cycle was completed, the entire dryer got SUPER hot and stopped yet again. I'm so frustrated, but i find your videos so easy to follow, and im hoping this will help me.... I'm just nervous about taking the whole drum out to clean lint. I pretty much cleaned as best i could without doing that, which may be the problem. But i wanted to thank you for making these videos! If you have any tips, i would appreciate it!
I have fixed many of our washers and dryers over the years so I pretty much know what I'm doing. I currently have a Whirlpool Duet dryer. My current issue is the dryer is overheating. Thermal fuse is blowing and the dryer and clothes are way too hot to the touch. I have eliminated several possible causes (lint buildup, clogged duct, thermostat, thermistor, heating element, blower wheel, felt seal still seems good etc.) and I am currently down to it either being a bad blower housing seal (it needs replaced) or the control board. There is literally NOTHING else left! I have a spare Duet dryer I am taking and comparing/testing parts from. I'm about to replace the blower housing seal and swap control boards. If I'm missing something please let me know.
We have the same issue.. can not figure out. Husband did everything you stated above. We replaced the board as well, which then came up with other F22 codes. (we purchased the board from Amazon) We think the board is faulty Husband put the old board back in and dryer works, but now overheats again! ready to to bite the bullety and buy a new unit :(
@@rundms323 My issue ended up being the board (probably a bad relay). I had a spare dryer of the same model and swapped the boards as a last resort. That fixed the overheating issue.
same problem. come to find out when I changed the thermometer vuse I put the wires on the worng way so it would never stop the heating element from heating
I have pulled the back off my dryer , removed any lint/ debris around the drum, and aluminum air pipes- the dryer still runs without stopping. I am guessing this the dryer timer or one of the limiters/ thermostats. How do I eliminate one or the other- the timer is a $75 part the component kit at $ 10 for 4 parts...is there a way to determine which it needs. Great helpful video. Thanks
Thanks for the great video! I have a newer Samsung electric dryer, and the thermal fuse on the blower motor assembly keeps popping. The dryer worked great for a year and a half, and now when I replace that fuse (and other fuses, thermistors, etc as well) the dryer lasts about a week before that specific fuse pops again. Curiously, it seems to happen with very light loads of clothes only. The vent is completely clear, there is no lint trapped anywhere. The heating element looks good and has continuity when tested. I did replace the fuse and felt the transition duct the last time it went out, and the duct to the wall was very hot to the touch - so it’s coming from within the dryer I’m sure. Thanks for your help! I should also add that the fuse on the heating element never pops, just the one on the other side of the machine near the blower wheel - which appears fine and the dryer spins without any issue. However, when the fuse blows, the dryer keeps counting down and everything appears normal, but the drum won’t spin and inside the drum feels hot. Again, I replaced all the fuses, thermostats, etc, tested the 240v connections, checked the heating element for continuity, confirmed visually that the entire vent system is completely lint-free, and a week later this still happened. I find it odd it lasts about 5-7 cycles before blowing that same exact fuse each time. This cycle has happened about 4 times now; so, it’s basically overheating intermittently. Any advise on what to check/replace next would be very much appreciated. Thanks!
sagging heating element, do a visual inspection inside housing, look for burn marks on sheet metal It may ground out only when element is hot, than it cools down and doesnt touch housing when you do a ground test with meter. Inspect blower wheel for obstruction Replace idler pulley and belt while you have it opened up, and make sure all four drum rollers spin freely.
If you use dryer sheets, check the lint screen for invisible blockage. If water does not flow through it freely, wash and rinse it with detergent if some sort until water flows through it freely. If the screen is clogged, the heat builds up in the drum and can be very hot when it does go across the thermal fuse.
Hi! Your video was very helpful! I think I may need to replace my thermostats, but I'm wondering if you've ever experienced a dryer getting so hot that it smells like lighter fluid? I can't find anything that mentions this problem.
Most new dryers has a 4 prong plug. What did you do when you get a dryer that needs the old 3 prong cord? Did you buy 4 Prong to 3 Prong Dryer Plug Adapter with Green Ground Wire?
Hi Gabe .. I have a Maytag Centennial about 10 years old. I went to get the clothes out of the dryer and they were Super hot! Now the dryer won't turn on. Lint filter is clean and the exhaust hose clean too .. haven't opened it up to see what it looks like inside, but plan on doing that tomorrow.
Some dryers have a thermal fuse that will not allow the dryer to come back on if it overheats. That’s more than likely what’s happening. Don’t just replace the fuse. Figure out why it overheated. Otherwise you’re just fixing the symptom of the problem. It could be that it is a grounded heating element. I have a video on that.
replaced the thermal fuse and thermostat and it is working great! Thanks for your help!! I have all the other parts you mentioned replacing as well, but it worked by replacing just those. I checked the coils and nothing was touching, figured it had to be the thermostat (causing backup thermostat to kick in) because the clothes were super hot and I got them out before the time was up. I learned a lot from your videos .. much appreciated!! Pretty proud of myself :))@@WasherDryerMoney
Excellent video, thanks. I have whirlpool cabrio. Dryer, we checked all the four things in the back for continuity, all are ok, but only operating thermostat on the left under the thermal fuse does not have continuity. So please advice that is the only problem or something may be wrong with timer and the circuit board? We are seniors and not a handy person.please guide us. Thanks. We are in Cleveland ohio. If you know good repair guy please let me know a. Thanks again
Questions what do you do when you have a burnt prong or connector that goes to a dryer board. Do you replace the connector or all the wires going to the dryer.to get the connector I had to by all the wires.
Would a motor starting to go bad be weak, not turning fast enough thus not removing the heat fast enough causing it to overheat? If so, how could I test the motor
I have an older kenmore that i just replaced the heating element on. Seemed to work fine after that. Now when i use the dryer the bottom glows so much it looks like a rocket taking off. It's not on fire anywhere, just seems like the heating element is getting a lot more hot than it should. Any suggestions?
Hi I have a Maytag Front loading Perforance electric Dryer, would not start changed thermal Fuse & high temp.sensor clean out all exhaust . Replace vent hose. WOrks now , but noticed front of Dryer getting pretty warm now. Can You tell me possible cause? Thanks for response...Kay
I will run a dryer on automatic cycle set on the shortest less dry. Then I will run it on timed dry set around 20 minute mark. Air dry never seems to have a problem so I don’t waste time checking it.
I never have but I would think it would be easier to test it on the machine it was meant for. I have seen a video of a guy using a tester to test the timer but I remember thinking it would be easier just to pop the timer open and inspect the contacts because that’s a common problem. It’s usually extremely obvious when a contact has gone bad.
Please help !! My Amana electric dryer stops at the end of the cycle but the timer keeps ticking and moving making the dryer get too hot and blowing the thermal fuse. How can I fix this ? Thank you for your help
Could be the time or the heating element is grounded. Looked at my videos I have videos about those problems. Definitely don’t use it or leave it plugged in if it’s not turned off.
@@WasherDryerMoney thanks for getting back to me so quickly ! I've had the element checked along with all the other things and they are ok .. I have to unplug it to get the timer to stop. The dryer runs on air fluff but I haven't been using it.. can I reset the timer or should I order a new one ?
@@cynthiajomcgrew6599 more than likely will have to replace it. Usually these are just mechanical timers non-digital. Timers can sometimes be as much as Getting another dryer used. Before you go through too much trouble I would consider getting a another used dryer because it is just a guessing game unless you hire a professional to take a look. You’ll see one of my older videos I take a timer apart to see if there’s anything burned up inside and there’s a refurbisher on eBay that only does a few types but you may have the right type of timer to get it refurbished for $30.
@@WasherDryerMoney I might just go ahead and get a new timer, my dryer is only 5 yrs old.. it's an Amana .. You have a great Labor Day weekend and again thank you so much !
@@cynthiajomcgrew6599 Sounds like a plan. When you take the timer off there will be a model number be sure to get the exact same model number including the last letter at the end of the model number. Some timers have the stop points in different spots so if you get one that’s a slightly different number or letter it will turn off at the wrong points on the timer. Also be sure to just open the timer up and take a look at it it will be fairly obvious if something is burned up or stuck. There’s lotta good videos on people opening those timers.
I have a dryer like the one reviewed in this video. It recently melted parts of a coat on the low setting which prompted me to check a few things. Whether set to low, medium or high heat, it seems to heat up to 170F and then down to 115F before heating again. Shouldn’t the temperatures be different for the separate settings of low, medium and high heat? Also, what should those temps be? Will there be three separate t-stats, one for each setting?
Yeah that’s a hard problem to fix. Could be heating element is Grounding itself against the frame and making it come on too long. Or it could just be a bad thermostat or the temperature selector has gone bad. Worst case would be something messed it up at a timer but unlikely. Always hard to know when I’m not there to test. Good luck and I would not trust the dryer on its own if it is getting too hot.
@@WasherDryerMoney you're correct. What a pain. I've removed the top and front and the thing the clothes roll around in. Now time to get a new element.
Yes. He usually this means there is lint blocking the path for the air to easily flow through somewhere in the dryer or in the exhaust pipe or flapper outside.
Hey Gabe, I have a quick question. Any tips or tricks on getting the faceplate of a Maytag Centennial watcher or dryer looking good again? Can't seem to get the water stains off especially.
Main thing is less is more. I have made things a lot worse trying to clean those off. It’s not like the rest of the body where you can just paint it white. A magic eraser been gentle not to rub off the paint works sometimes
Hey Gabe. Do you have any videos on how to run a full and complete diagnostic check on a washer/dryer from beginning to end? Regardless of condition, I would assume that you would want to run such a full diagnostic to avoid future callbacks. Even if I receive a washer/dryer in "working" condition, I would want to check for any hidden issues that would present themselves later. Thanks!
I always run washers through one cycle with a full load of towels. Usually partway through the cycle I will know what is wrong with the washer. After I have fixed the washer I will run it all the way through two full cycles before I determine it’s fixed. I always keep a close eye on the washer during the first test because sometimes they will leak or overflow. I hate having to mark my shop floor. Lol
have you run into the power cord starting to overheat at the plug in .timer dose not seam to move, replaced it , fuse blown from heat replace it, now i'm stuck.
Do not continue using the machine until it’s fixed or a professional comes out and fixes it. Very dangerous problem. It may be something simple like terminal block screws not tightened, or the other end of the plug not getting a good connection. Be safe and have a professional check it has proper power.
HELP !!!... Whirpool washer - the lid switch was melted and the white and grey wires are hot ??? Why ? Used different lid switch and tried different motor capacitor, still getting switch hot...why the resistance ?
I find a lot of times when that switch is overheating that the clothes are also not coming out completely dry. This is usually because the clutch is going bad but not gone all the way out. I’m assuming the motor is overworking because it’s able to spin at a much higher speed because there’s no resistance from the clutch. It could just be a coincidence but I have noticed most machines that have switches that burn up also have bad clutches. It could also be a loose connection at that switch. A loose connection is a hot connection.
@@WasherDryerMoney Thanks for responding, you are awesome! The clutch was probably bad, but I replaced that and the hot lid switch continued while agitating (I think because of the damaged wiring and pigtail / connectors....) I saw some people on the net ask the same question and post pictures of their burnt wiring and switch, but no one had a real good answer as to why....
Maytag Centenial elect. dryer. Heating element and thermostats test good. Even in air dry (no heat) element comes on. In med and high modes it gets cloths around 160°. I am thinking the temp setting switch. Any thoughts?
It could be. The thermostat rarely goes out compared to some of the other problems. If it’s getting to 160 from the exhaust that’s pretty close to what it’s supposed to get to. Some dryers go to about 175.
@@WasherDryerMoney Help Samsung washer about 5 years old I removed the blue cap at the bottom Then remove the screw Then tried to tight the huge bolt under the white agitator of plastic Still some going off balance Replace the rods would be my next step?
Definitely, first thing to check is why the dryer is getting too hot. Be sure to not run it until this problem is solved because it’s very dangerous. More than likely, it’s got lint buildup in the fan housing or the hose heading out of the house. But to be safe I would go ahead and take the drum out and make sure it has not sprayed lint inside of the entire dryer. What can cause chaos to all the thermostats. So my first step would be to unplug the dryer and take it apart. They sell a kit to replace all the thermostats of the old dryers on Amazon pretty cheap. I would go ahead and give that a try as well after you have made sure all the lint is Cleaned out.
I put a thermometer in the vent as your video suggests and it cycled several times and shut off at 160. I'm running it again and it's about 15 minutes seems to be cycling around the proper temps and not shutting off??? Any ideas?
Hello, have you had good luck with the heating element you have linked compared to the OEM? I want to use your affiliate link since your videos were so helpful, but I am concerned it isn't as good of quality and is a part that can be dangerous. Thanks for your awesome videos!
I have use them and not had any issues, but I have randomly gotten heating elements that were not good off of Amazon as well. I have used a whole lot of them and usually heating elements go bad not because they just randomly burn up but because of airflow problems. When there’s any resistance and airflow these heating elements dramatically get hotter.
I replaced the 4 fuses on the back of the dryer and now I put the meat thermometer in the dryer hole ( great air flow blowing out) and the temp is staying at around 165-170. Should it be staying at that temp? Or going up and down in temp? If its an issue what else should I be looking for
That is strange. It should be going much lower on temperature before coming back up. Check to see if the heating element is grounded out. I have a video on that. If that is not it check out the Facebook group “appliance repair and help questions” On that group you can post pictures and exactly what’s going on and there are several people that can walk you step-by-step through every possible solution.
@@WasherDryerMoney I recently bought 3 cheap new elements. A pair from one seller and one from another. I feel like both get their cheap parts from the same wholesaler. One was like $19, the pair was like $40. Tried the one and one from the pair. I also installed OEM cycling stat. Neither element would get hot enough to cycle the cycling stat. Both liked just a few degrees getting hot enough to work the stat. I put the old one back on it. It cycles now. I called myself calibrating two thermometers before testing any of these.
Btw, I am surprised how few times a clogged lint screen is mentioned in some of the forums I am in. I check the lint screen in every dryer I get in and advise the buyer to check them now and then. So many think all they have to do is scrape excess lint off every time they use the dryer.
Join the Facebook group. Appliance Flippers United. Super smart guys in that group. Be sure to re-calibrate after you add any new parts to a Paul’s play. Usually it doesn’t matter but sometimes the machine will act stupid if you don’t.
@@WasherDryerMoney Bought another house little over a year ago. Between renovating it, appliance, and small engines, I have about lost my mind. Turning 67 this month. Might be time to scale back.
Great video, I had the grounded element problem. I'd just replaced it a few months ago and thought it was one of the 3 thermostats, but they tested ok. Thanks for the help, I was beginning to pull my hair out!
Grounded out heating elements or a unique problem that are hard to diagnose quickly. I have accidentally checked a machine and did not realize the heating element was grounded and coming on and thought it was just the thermal cut off and ruined a thermal cut off just because I forgot to double check.
I’m coming back soon. Finishing a big real estate project and I had a rent house that Got trashed by a Bad tenant that I am cleaning up. But I’m planning on making a bunch a Videos in 2022. Stay tuned lol
I just purchased the kit after my fuse blew on the back and one of the others also went out, replaced them all and the dryer heated up and now no longer heats again, any idea what it could be? Edit: lmao I just got to 10:05 so it’s probably that.
The common problem with most dryers that squeak is usually the rollers or the idler pulley. Sometimes I have to be replaced sometimes you can just clean and oil them. Some machines are easier to get the drum out and do the job and some are much harder. Good luck
@@WasherDryerMoney I also have an older Electrolux washer that's been leaking. I changed the tub to pump hose and the dispenser to tube hose which both had holes. What I did notice on the dispenser to tube hose it rubs against the the drain hose creating the hole. Im thinking of putting something in between the two to keep this from happening again. EIFLS60JRR0 thanks 👍😎
My hotpoint htmx100em2ww Commercial started to overheat like crazy suddenly.. I opened it all.. removed and inspected the belt. Removed some lints (not much) and everything seems normal but the back of the dryer gets extremely hot and the top of it near the console... i'm pretty sure its the Thermostat does it sound right? I'm going to order one but wondering if it could be something else.. watched a few of your videos. Hmmmm thinking it might be my outside trap with flaps maybe they dont open well with the air pressure... The kit you linked for thermostat and fuses is not available do you know if another one could fit ? Thanks
I put a new link be sure to check to see if that one is available. I would say you have a airflow issue. Either it’s built up around the fan or the exhaust line is bent or clogged up.
@@WasherDryerMoney I took it apart because I thought the belt might of burnt out as the duct was completely clear! But when I took it apart there was a blanket of black burnt lint inside the appliance right under the drum. Insane that it even got in there! I had no idea king could get inside the dryer. Now gonna religiously take my dryer apart and check for lint like weekly because now I’m scared of that.
My dryer keeps running at the end of the cycle, it never stops, that happened after a clogged duct, I cleaned it because it was overheating and now it won't stop, I have to manually turn it off. please any suggestion, thank you.
I just moved and since then our dryer has been running too hot. Our old home required a four prong plug, this one requires a three prong. We converted it to fit the 3 prong. Is this why it’s running too hot?
Question: I tried to dry a piece of clothing . I took it out of the dryer about mid cycle and left the dryer door open . I left home for about 9 hours, returned home , went into my laundry room and my dryer was hot to the touch. Can you offer any advice to what the problem may be .
Probably a grounded out heating element. I have a video on that subject. Basically it means the heating element is touching the metal frame of the dryer. Causing the heating element to stay on all the time. If it’s not that it could be the timer.
@@WasherDryerMoney Just checked the heating element and thermostat on my meter and I visually checked the heating element and everything looks good. But what I did notice was that the timer goes from one setting to the next setting never turning off !
It’s a much more rare problem but it could be A bad timer. Sometimes you can visually check these after you open up the timer. Just be careful and be sure to keep the dryer unplugged while you’re working on any electronics on it.
I'd watched 4 other videos before finding you but yours is the best. Well organized procedure, clearly explained with a clear speaking voice. I wish my Doctor could convey information as well as you did here. Smile. Thanks!
I watched several “how to” videos on overheating whirlpool dryers and yours was absolutely the best. Thanks for the great information, and for including info to order needed parts ! Great job !!
Thanks
I have a Ge dryer if I run a full cycle on time dryer with no clothes it would go through the whole cycle but when I put clothes in there and put it on time dryer it still run for 5 minutes and cut off everytime .
@@marlawilliams2561 could be a bad motor. The extra weight of the clothes might be just enough to make it over work and cut off. But it’s hard to tell without actually being there so I’m just kind of guessing.
I was thinking the same thing and I replace the motor and all fuse but it still doing the same thing have you ever had a situation were it was the timer.
Great information this guy knows what he is talking about
Thanks
Thanks ! Was resting while my white shirts where drying on medium 30 minutes and had timer on my fone on also but at 20 minutes. Decided to get up and check my shirts at 15 minutes. Pulled them out of dryer and had to let them go on the floor because they burnt my hands. Try re-washing because they now have polyester burnt smell. Checked duck, checked outside, checked lint grabber, seals door and drum are all good this far. Gonna open it up in and see...
Great detailed video!
Outstanding explanation of how these components work together and explaining your testing process and why. Subbed!!!
Hi! I watched your other video on the 4 reasons your dryer won't turn on and was able to successfully change out the thermal fuse! It was surprisingly quick and easy and i was so happy to have saved money as i was charged a lot 7 mths ago to have a heating element installed and lint cleaned out. However, before a full cycle was completed, the entire dryer got SUPER hot and stopped yet again. I'm so frustrated, but i find your videos so easy to follow, and im hoping this will help me.... I'm just nervous about taking the whole drum out to clean lint. I pretty much cleaned as best i could without doing that, which may be the problem. But i wanted to thank you for making these videos! If you have any tips, i would appreciate it!
I have fixed many of our washers and dryers over the years so I pretty much know what I'm doing. I currently have a Whirlpool Duet dryer. My current issue is the dryer is overheating. Thermal fuse is blowing and the dryer and clothes are way too hot to the touch. I have eliminated several possible causes (lint buildup, clogged duct, thermostat, thermistor, heating element, blower wheel, felt seal still seems good etc.) and I am currently down to it either being a bad blower housing seal (it needs replaced) or the control board. There is literally NOTHING else left! I have a spare Duet dryer I am taking and comparing/testing parts from. I'm about to replace the blower housing seal and swap control boards. If I'm missing something please let me know.
We have the same issue.. can not figure out. Husband did everything you stated above. We replaced the board as well, which then came up with other F22 codes. (we purchased the board from Amazon) We think the board is faulty Husband put the old board back in and dryer works, but now overheats again!
ready to to bite the bullety and buy a new unit :(
@@rundms323 My issue ended up being the board (probably a bad relay). I had a spare dryer of the same model and swapped the boards as a last resort. That fixed the overheating issue.
Don’t you are spending to much money and time ? Buying a new one should be better?
@@LoneWolf-qv8nmnope. Didn't cost me anything and dryer still going strong.
same problem. come to find out when I changed the thermometer vuse I put the wires on the worng way so it would never stop the heating element from heating
Very well explained
Very good presentation.
Thanks guy...my filter was glogged...not burning anymore
So helpful! Thank you for all this info!
Glad to help
I have pulled the back off my dryer
, removed any lint/ debris around the drum, and aluminum air pipes- the dryer still runs without stopping. I am guessing this the dryer timer or one of the limiters/ thermostats. How do I eliminate one or the other- the timer is a $75 part the component kit at $ 10 for 4 parts...is there a way to determine which it needs. Great helpful video. Thanks
Thanks for the great video! I have a newer Samsung electric dryer, and the thermal fuse on the blower motor assembly keeps popping. The dryer worked great for a year and a half, and now when I replace that fuse (and other fuses, thermistors, etc as well) the dryer lasts about a week before that specific fuse pops again. Curiously, it seems to happen with very light loads of clothes only. The vent is completely clear, there is no lint trapped anywhere. The heating element looks good and has continuity when tested. I did replace the fuse and felt the transition duct the last time it went out, and the duct to the wall was very hot to the touch - so it’s coming from within the dryer I’m sure. Thanks for your help!
I should also add that the fuse on the heating element never pops, just the one on the other side of the machine near the blower wheel - which appears fine and the dryer spins without any issue. However, when the fuse blows, the dryer keeps counting down and everything appears normal, but the drum won’t spin and inside the drum feels hot.
Again, I replaced all the fuses, thermostats, etc, tested the 240v connections, checked the heating element for continuity, confirmed visually that the entire vent system is completely lint-free, and a week later this still happened. I find it odd it lasts about 5-7 cycles before blowing that same exact fuse each time. This cycle has happened about 4 times now; so, it’s basically overheating intermittently. Any advise on what to check/replace next would be very much appreciated. Thanks!
sagging heating element, do a visual inspection inside housing, look for burn marks on sheet metal It may ground out only when element is hot, than it cools down and doesnt touch housing when you do a ground test with meter.
Inspect blower wheel for obstruction
Replace idler pulley and belt while you have it opened up, and make sure all four drum rollers spin freely.
If you use dryer sheets, check the lint screen for invisible blockage.
If water does not flow through it freely, wash and rinse it with detergent if some sort until water flows through it freely.
If the screen is clogged, the heat builds up in the drum and can be very hot when it does go across the thermal fuse.
Hi! Your video was very helpful! I think I may need to replace my thermostats, but I'm wondering if you've ever experienced a dryer getting so hot that it smells like lighter fluid? I can't find anything that mentions this problem.
One of the best videos out there.
Thanks
Excellent explanation
Thanks
Most new dryers has a 4 prong plug. What did you do when you get a dryer that needs the old 3 prong cord? Did you buy 4 Prong to 3 Prong Dryer Plug Adapter with Green Ground Wire?
Good work well done video Sir
Thanks for the video, great info.
Hi Gabe .. I have a Maytag Centennial about 10 years old. I went to get the clothes out of the dryer and they were Super hot! Now the dryer won't turn on. Lint filter is clean and the exhaust hose clean too .. haven't opened it up to see what it looks like inside, but plan on doing that tomorrow.
Some dryers have a thermal fuse that will not allow the dryer to come back on if it overheats. That’s more than likely what’s happening. Don’t just replace the fuse. Figure out why it overheated. Otherwise you’re just fixing the symptom of the problem. It could be that it is a grounded heating element. I have a video on that.
@@WasherDryerMoney thank you so much for your response! I am learning a lot and hope to report back that I have fixed it :))
replaced the thermal fuse and thermostat and it is working great! Thanks for your help!! I have all the other parts you mentioned replacing as well, but it worked by replacing just those. I checked the coils and nothing was touching, figured it had to be the thermostat (causing backup thermostat to kick in) because the clothes were super hot and I got them out before the time was up. I learned a lot from your videos .. much appreciated!! Pretty proud of myself :))@@WasherDryerMoney
Thank you very very much, I like every one of your videos very much
Ben told me to contact you.
he sent me your WhatsApp information.
I sent you a message.
Thank you, very helpful.
GREAT info!!!
Can you make a video on how to check washers and dryers before listing them for sale?
Excellent video, thanks. I have whirlpool cabrio. Dryer, we checked all the four things in the back for continuity, all are ok, but only operating thermostat on the left under the thermal fuse does not have continuity. So please advice that is the only problem or something may be wrong with timer and the circuit board? We are seniors and not a handy person.please guide us. Thanks. We are in Cleveland ohio. If you know good repair guy please let me know a. Thanks again
can you fix WH01X10425 GE Absorber? thx
Questions what do you do when you have a burnt prong or connector that goes to a dryer board. Do you replace the connector or all the wires going to the dryer.to get the connector I had to by all the wires.
Would a motor starting to go bad be weak, not turning fast enough thus not removing the heat fast enough causing it to overheat? If so, how could I test the motor
If you over stuff your dryer and something is burning, what exactly is it that’s creating the burning smell?
I have an older kenmore that i just replaced the heating element on. Seemed to work fine after that. Now when i use the dryer the bottom glows so much it looks like a rocket taking off. It's not on fire anywhere, just seems like the heating element is getting a lot more hot than it should. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Great information buddy!
Thanks
Hi I have a Maytag Front loading Perforance electric Dryer, would not start changed thermal Fuse & high temp.sensor clean out all exhaust . Replace vent hose. WOrks now , but noticed front of Dryer getting pretty warm now. Can You tell me possible cause? Thanks for response...Kay
Are you able to make a video of what you mean by test cycles before you sell them like do you run them for a full cycle on every setting?
I will run a dryer on automatic cycle set on the shortest less dry. Then I will run it on timed dry set around 20 minute mark.
Air dry never seems to have a problem so I don’t waste time checking it.
@@WasherDryerMoney and what about washer just rinse and spin?
I will usually put washers through 2 full cycles after refurbishing them.
Thanks again Sir
Glad you liked it
Hi again Gabe. Is it possible to "bench test" a control panel, or should it be installed while testing? Any videos on this you recommend?
I never have but I would think it would be easier to test it on the machine it was meant for. I have seen a video of a guy using a tester to test the timer but I remember thinking it would be easier just to pop the timer open and inspect the contacts because that’s a common problem. It’s usually extremely obvious when a contact has gone bad.
Please help !! My Amana electric dryer stops at the end of the cycle but the timer keeps ticking and moving making the dryer get too hot and blowing the thermal fuse.
How can I fix this ? Thank you for your help
Could be the time or the heating element is grounded. Looked at my videos I have videos about those problems. Definitely don’t use it or leave it plugged in if it’s not turned off.
@@WasherDryerMoney thanks for getting back to me so quickly ! I've had the element checked along with all the other things and they are ok .. I have to unplug it to get the timer to stop. The dryer runs on air fluff but I haven't been using it.. can I reset the timer or should I order a new one ?
@@cynthiajomcgrew6599 more than likely will have to replace it. Usually these are just mechanical timers non-digital. Timers can sometimes be as much as Getting another dryer used. Before you go through too much trouble I would consider getting a another used dryer because it is just a guessing game unless you hire a professional to take a look. You’ll see one of my older videos I take a timer apart to see if there’s anything burned up inside and there’s a refurbisher on eBay that only does a few types but you may have the right type of timer to get it refurbished for $30.
@@WasherDryerMoney I might just go ahead and get a new timer, my dryer is only 5 yrs old.. it's an Amana .. You have a great Labor Day weekend and again thank you so much !
@@cynthiajomcgrew6599 Sounds like a plan. When you take the timer off there will be a model number be sure to get the exact same model number including the last letter at the end of the model number. Some timers have the stop points in different spots so if you get one that’s a slightly different number or letter it will turn off at the wrong points on the timer.
Also be sure to just open the timer up and take a look at it it will be fairly obvious if something is burned up or stuck.
There’s lotta good videos on people opening those timers.
Help!! i went to link for the kit and my dryer is a MODEL WED 4815 EW0 and all i see is EW1, what is the deal?
My dryer is new and only gets a lil lint in the corner and it takes 3 70 minutes cycles to dry a load of clothes
I have a dryer like the one reviewed in this video. It recently melted parts of a coat on the low setting which prompted me to check a few things. Whether set to low, medium or high heat, it seems to heat up to 170F and then down to 115F before heating again. Shouldn’t the temperatures be different for the separate settings of low, medium and high heat? Also, what should those temps be? Will there be three separate t-stats, one for each setting?
Yeah that’s a hard problem to fix. Could be heating element is Grounding itself against the frame and making it come on too long. Or it could just be a bad thermostat or the temperature selector has gone bad. Worst case would be something messed it up at a timer but unlikely. Always hard to know when I’m not there to test.
Good luck and I would not trust the dryer on its own if it is getting too hot.
The back of my whirpool dryer is tack welded on. Is the only way to access the heating element either by busting the welds or cutting the back off?
It’s probably a different type of dryer than a filter out the top dryer.
You have to more than likely remove the top and the front
@@WasherDryerMoney you're correct. What a pain. I've removed the top and front and the thing the clothes roll around in. Now time to get a new element.
Is the door getting hot to the touch in the middle of a load a symptom?
Yes. He usually this means there is lint blocking the path for the air to easily flow through somewhere in the dryer or in the exhaust pipe or flapper outside.
Great information 👍🇨🇦
Thanks this one took a lot of planning to make sure I got every possibility.
Hey Gabe, I have a quick question. Any tips or tricks on getting the faceplate of a Maytag Centennial watcher or dryer looking good again? Can't seem to get the water stains off especially.
Main thing is less is more. I have made things a lot worse trying to clean those off. It’s not like the rest of the body where you can just paint it white. A magic eraser been gentle not to rub off the paint works sometimes
Hey Gabe. Do you have any videos on how to run a full and complete diagnostic check on a washer/dryer from beginning to end? Regardless of condition, I would assume that you would want to run such a full diagnostic to avoid future callbacks. Even if I receive a washer/dryer in "working" condition, I would want to check for any hidden issues that would present themselves later. Thanks!
I always run washers through one cycle with a full load of towels. Usually partway through the cycle I will know what is wrong with the washer.
After I have fixed the washer I will run it all the way through two full cycles before I determine it’s fixed.
I always keep a close eye on the washer during the first test because sometimes they will leak or overflow. I hate having to mark my shop floor. Lol
have you run into the power cord starting to overheat at the plug in .timer dose not seam to move, replaced it , fuse blown from heat replace it, now i'm stuck.
Do not continue using the machine until it’s fixed or a professional comes out and fixes it. Very dangerous problem.
It may be something simple like terminal block screws not tightened, or the other end of the plug not getting a good connection.
Be safe and have a professional check it has proper power.
If I go to a hardware store, and want to buy a box of the 1/4 back panel dryer screws. What kind of screws do I ask for?
I think…. hex sheet-metal screw
HELP !!!... Whirpool washer - the lid switch was melted and the white and grey wires are hot ??? Why ? Used different lid switch and tried different motor capacitor, still getting switch hot...why the resistance ?
I swapped motors and its still hot, I am assuming it does not get hot at all?
swapped power cord, and inlet valve, still hot
Bypassed the lid switch and wires don't seem to be hot...so, guess it was just the burnt wire connector ends?
I find a lot of times when that switch is overheating that the clothes are also not coming out completely dry. This is usually because the clutch is going bad but not gone all the way out. I’m assuming the motor is overworking because it’s able to spin at a much higher speed because there’s no resistance from the clutch. It could just be a coincidence but I have noticed most machines that have switches that burn up also have bad clutches. It could also be a loose connection at that switch. A loose connection is a hot connection.
@@WasherDryerMoney Thanks for responding, you are awesome! The clutch was probably bad, but I replaced that and the hot lid switch continued while agitating (I think because of the damaged wiring and pigtail / connectors....) I saw some people on the net ask the same question and post pictures of their burnt wiring and switch, but no one had a real good answer as to why....
Maytag Centenial elect. dryer. Heating element and thermostats test good. Even in air dry (no heat) element comes on. In med and high modes it gets cloths around 160°. I am thinking the temp setting switch. Any thoughts?
It could be. The thermostat rarely goes out compared to some of the other problems. If it’s getting to 160 from the exhaust that’s pretty close to what it’s supposed to get to. Some dryers go to about 175.
@@WasherDryerMoney Help Samsung washer about 5 years old
I removed the blue cap at the bottom
Then remove the screw
Then tried to tight the huge bolt under the white agitator of plastic
Still some going off balance
Replace the rods would be my next step?
Can't wait!
Thanks
Whirlpool getting too hot then shutting off, what do you think? Will the thermostat/fuse kit in the video work for a older whirlpool dryer?
Definitely, first thing to check is why the dryer is getting too hot. Be sure to not run it until this problem is solved because it’s very dangerous.
More than likely, it’s got lint buildup in the fan housing or the hose heading out of the house. But to be safe I would go ahead and take the drum out and make sure it has not sprayed lint inside of the entire dryer.
What can cause chaos to all the thermostats.
So my first step would be to unplug the dryer and take it apart. They sell a kit to replace all the thermostats of the old dryers on Amazon pretty cheap. I would go ahead and give that a try as well after you have made sure all the lint is Cleaned out.
Are there could also be the motor overheating. Hopefully not.
So is it a universal kit for a whirlpool? Thanks
I put a thermometer in the vent as your video suggests and it cycled several times and shut off at 160. I'm running it again and it's about 15 minutes seems to be cycling around the proper temps and not shutting off??? Any ideas?
Awesome
Glad you liked it
Hello, have you had good luck with the heating element you have linked compared to the OEM? I want to use your affiliate link since your videos were so helpful, but I am concerned it isn't as good of quality and is a part that can be dangerous. Thanks for your awesome videos!
I have use them and not had any issues, but I have randomly gotten heating elements that were not good off of Amazon as well.
I have used a whole lot of them and usually heating elements go bad not because they just randomly burn up but because of airflow problems. When there’s any resistance and airflow these heating elements dramatically get hotter.
Hey i have a question re maytag 300 series i have 2 green ground wires n i only saw on your video 1 ground wire please send info please
I’m not sure.
Where you been sir?
Bought some houses and I’m in the middle of getting them ready to rent.
I deafly will make more videos as soon as I am done.
@@WasherDryerMoney you should make videos of you working on your houses. That will be very interesting 👍
I replaced the 4 fuses on the back of the dryer and now I put the meat thermometer in the dryer hole ( great air flow blowing out) and the temp is staying at around 165-170. Should it be staying at that temp? Or going up and down in temp? If its an issue what else should I be looking for
That is strange. It should be going much lower on temperature before coming back up.
Check to see if the heating element is grounded out. I have a video on that. If that is not it check out the Facebook group “appliance repair and help questions”
On that group you can post pictures and exactly what’s going on and there are several people that can walk you step-by-step through every possible solution.
@@WasherDryerMoney I recently bought 3 cheap new elements. A pair from one seller and one from another.
I feel like both get their cheap parts from the same wholesaler.
One was like $19, the pair was like $40.
Tried the one and one from the pair. I also installed OEM cycling stat.
Neither element would get hot enough to cycle the cycling stat. Both liked just a few degrees getting hot enough to work the stat. I put the old one back on it. It cycles now.
I called myself calibrating two thermometers before testing any of these.
Btw, I am surprised how few times a clogged lint screen is mentioned in some of the forums I am in.
I check the lint screen in every dryer I get in and advise the buyer to check them now and then.
So many think all they have to do is scrape excess lint off every time they use the dryer.
Im having hell with these push pause top loads . do you offer any consulting washer dryer money?
Join the Facebook group. Appliance Flippers United. Super smart guys in that group. Be sure to re-calibrate after you add any new parts to a Paul’s play. Usually it doesn’t matter but sometimes the machine will act stupid if you don’t.
@@WasherDryerMoney thanks so much!!
Will you do more video soon ?
Yes. I have been overwhelmed with a real estate project. I’m definitely going to start doing videos as soon as I’m done.
@@WasherDryerMoney Bought another house little over a year ago. Between renovating it, appliance, and small engines, I have about lost my mind.
Turning 67 this month. Might be time to scale back.
Great video, I had the grounded element problem. I'd just replaced it a few months ago and thought it was one of the 3 thermostats, but they tested ok. Thanks for the help, I was beginning to pull my hair out!
Grounded out heating elements or a unique problem that are hard to diagnose quickly. I have accidentally checked a machine and did not realize the heating element was grounded and coming on and thought it was just the thermal cut off and ruined a thermal cut off just because I forgot to double check.
Any reason a gas dryer only heats in anything but high?
Sorry I don’t know a lot about gas dryers. They’re not very popular in my area.
Hey where did you go?
I’m coming back soon. Finishing a big real estate project and I had a rent house that Got trashed by a Bad tenant that I am cleaning up. But I’m planning on making a bunch a Videos in 2022. Stay tuned lol
I just purchased the kit after my fuse blew on the back and one of the others also went out, replaced them all and the dryer heated up and now no longer heats again, any idea what it could be? Edit: lmao I just got to 10:05 so it’s probably that.
Yeah definitely check for groundout heating element. Very dangerous problem.
Yep that's what it was heating element grounding out fix the problem 10 minutes
Glad you fixed it.
Any ideas why a new Electrolux dryer would be squealing 🤔
The common problem with most dryers that squeak is usually the rollers or the idler pulley. Sometimes I have to be replaced sometimes you can just clean and oil them. Some machines are easier to get the drum out and do the job and some are much harder. Good luck
@@WasherDryerMoney I also have an older Electrolux washer that's been leaking. I changed the tub to pump hose and the dispenser to tube hose which both had holes. What I did notice on the dispenser to tube hose it rubs against the the drain hose creating the hole. Im thinking of putting something in between the two to keep this from happening again. EIFLS60JRR0 thanks 👍😎
My hotpoint htmx100em2ww Commercial started to overheat like crazy suddenly..
I opened it all.. removed and inspected the belt. Removed some lints (not much)
and everything seems normal but the back of the dryer gets extremely hot and the top of it near the console... i'm pretty sure its the Thermostat does it sound right?
I'm going to order one but wondering if it could be something else.. watched a few of your videos.
Hmmmm thinking it might be my outside trap with flaps maybe they dont open well with the air pressure...
The kit you linked for thermostat and fuses is not available do you know if another one could fit ? Thanks
I put a new link be sure to check to see if that one is available. I would say you have a airflow issue. Either it’s built up around the fan or the exhaust line is bent or clogged up.
@@WasherDryerMoney i know its not in the dryer... maybe into the wall or the outdoor trap.. gonna have to check. thanks
@@WasherDryerMoney Could it not be the rear of drum being worn?
Are you still making videos?
Yes but I’m taking a break because I am redoing a rent house. I’ll be back to make a video soon.
Mine had a burning smell for weeks then started smoking today
You’re gonna wanna unplug that and not plug it back in until it’s fixed.
@@WasherDryerMoney I took it apart because I thought the belt might of burnt out as the duct was completely clear! But when I took it apart there was a blanket of black burnt lint inside the appliance right under the drum. Insane that it even got in there! I had no idea king could get inside the dryer. Now gonna religiously take my dryer apart and check for lint like weekly because now I’m scared of that.
My dryer keeps running at the end of the cycle, it never stops, that happened after a clogged duct, I cleaned it because it was overheating and now it won't stop, I have to manually turn it off. please any suggestion, thank you.
Ours just over heated and now have wet clothes on the dryer
I just moved and since then our dryer has been running too hot. Our old home required a four prong plug, this one requires a three prong. We converted it to fit the 3 prong. Is this why it’s running too hot?
Thermal cut off…
Why did you stop posting videos man?
I’ll start back again. Just been busy.
@@WasherDryerMoney Well get on with it, washer/dryer dude!
@@garym2879 I will. Lol
Question: I tried to dry a piece of clothing . I took it out of the dryer about mid cycle and left the dryer door open . I left home for about 9 hours, returned home , went into my laundry room and my dryer was hot to the touch. Can you offer any advice to what the problem may be .
Probably a grounded out heating element. I have a video on that subject. Basically it means the heating element is touching the metal frame of the dryer. Causing the heating element to stay on all the time. If it’s not that it could be the timer.
Definitely don’t leave it plugged in until you fix it and double check that it’s not going to do it again it’s very dangerous.
@@WasherDryerMoney Just checked the heating element and thermostat on my meter and I visually checked the heating element and everything looks good. But what I did notice was that the timer goes from one setting to the next setting never turning off !
It’s a much more rare problem but it could be A bad timer. Sometimes you can visually check these after you open up the timer. Just be careful and be sure to keep the dryer unplugged while you’re working on any electronics on it.